Great stuff! You have inspired me to purchase my own mini lathe to learn a new skill. Really appreciate the way you explain the right and wrong ways, rather than just saying, “do it this way”. I wonder how many people will watch till the end for the “after credits”?
You are a true Artisan sir, thank you so much for showing you’re years of hard work and trade secrets. Not many people are willing to do so in such an incredible in-depth manner. Thank you again!
Very nicely done Joe. I make mini cannons that are made to fire, so I don't really bother to pretty them up to any great extent. Your videos have made me re-think that attitude. Thanks for posting!
Joe you are a true blessing to the machining community, from rank hobbyist to seasoned veteran. I have enjoyed and learned from each and every one of your videos since Outside Screwball recommended you. Keep on keepin' on!
Good afternoon Joe. I noticed you stopped to blow off the chips quite often during the ball forming. A necessary evil I agree, but i wanted to share my method. I use a Kool Mist Tankless Mister unit. I run it without coolant when I want a constant air flow to keep chips cleared for milling & drilling operations. The magnetic base provides a means to easily mount it and the flexible nozzle allows precise positioning of the air blast. The knob on the valve body provides control of air volume. Benefits include keeping chips cleared from cutter so you're not re-cutting chips, removing chips while drilling so they don't fall back into the hole when you pull out to clear the chips, provide a marginal cooling affect on the tool, keep chips cleared off vise jaws & parallels when changing parts, etc. I know there are companies that specifically make air blow off devices, but name a machine shop that doesn't have old misters that don't "work" because they don't siphon fluid anymore. Keep posting the great videos. Since subscribing, I started watching all the videos from your library from the beginning....only 5 months behind now. :-)
If you watch closely, you'll see that I alternate the contact points of the tool. The cutting goes from the front, to the rear, to the edge high spot and so on. This technique allows for a lot of material removal will very little part load. Only at the very end do I make a full radius cut.
I rarely comment, but I've watched all your stuff and it is all extremely well done. This particular video comes at a perfect time since I am arguing with some form tools for making some key chain fobs. Thanks for doing all the hard work that the rest of us can learn from! Also I love the little extra step on the second barrel, those are the little details that make the whole thing sing.
It was so beautiful, you made it look as though the ball was always there just needing a bit of uncovering, but it was not so: There was extraordinary art and skill in the making of symmetric tools and in the cutting. Thank you for sharing and inspiring.
I had a plant manager tell me one time, " Machinists have the easiest job around. The part is already in there, we just have to remove the excess". There is some truth in that.
FYI...Just thought you might like to know the rear portion of the cannon barrel you are working on is called the "Cascable". It is the section of the barrel from breech to knob (the ball is called the knob). As an artilleryman for Colonial Williamsburg I demo mortar and cannon, along with long arms so the nomenclature of 18th century weapons is very important because of the many questions asked by visitors. There are many commands given during the loading and firing of a cannon. When to command to "make ready" is called out the "linstock" holding the" slow match" is brought to the "Cascable" and held there till the command to "fire" is called out. At that moment the slow match held by the linstock is placed at the "vent" BOOM!
FYI...The term is not Cascable, it is Cascabel from the Latin cascabellus meaning "small bell." and thence from 17th century Spanish Cascabel, "little round bell"
Oh yes, and thank you very much for all this informative and useful videos, it improves and tackles a lot of milling and turning jobs.The first one for me was your threading video from head stock to tail stock! Since then I got great results, without any potential danger!! Please keep going!
One way I have used to get a true circular quadrant is to install a piece of roundbar of the exact diameter in a drill press and use grinding paste on it to smooth off the high spots on the form tool. Run the drill press at high speed while plunging it up and down. If the roundbar is long enough, it can be advanced out of the chuck so that the finishing is done at the exact radius.
Some day I'm going to win a lottery and then I'm going to pay you handsomely to spend a few days with me in my shop teaching me stuff! (Maybe I'll have to upgrade from my Asian 10" lathe). But don't loose too much sleep over that statement cuz I don't buy lottery tickets very often. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with those of us that are less than rich or famous! God bless you.
I would subscribe again too if I could Joe. I am not a machinest in any form or fashion, but I love watching and if I was teaching this your channel would be mandatory watching.
honestly i liked the .075 step before the taper as seen @6:54. gives it some more character and is seen on many old cannons. that being said thanx for the lessons. i've learned a lot from watching
Many thanks for the great video. I would really have liked to watch how you free-hand such a precise radius on the tool. Maybe a short video on grinder tips and tricks? Part 1 was a great intro to dressing the wheel but sure there is a lot more to be learned,
"Watch the Shine", WOW you're not kidding Joe, that really POPS! Yeah I already did my part pushing you over 50,000 SUBS, I subscribed about a year ago, LOL! As always thanks for the great show and info. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
When you mentioned about the thin section breaking because of cutting torque i was holding my breath while you were doing the back side of ball , Even though you had about an inch of cutter engaged doing the front side of ball there was almost no chatter ( you could hear some but I couldn't see it?) The finish came out great. Pretty sure that without a ball cutter would not have been possible on asmall hobby lathe? (at least not without a lot of filing and emery work to remove chatter marks) Small hobby lathes are just not rigid enough and probably wouldn't have enough power to make that depth/width of cut?
At one point (9:10 or so) you had a step on the straight taper and I thought that was a nice feature but your way looks good too. Thanks for not keeping us in suspense for too long! 😁
Hey im a subscriber and i paused to read that list lol. Funny list tho. I have to say tho, i really enjoy your content and you have a way of breaking down things in a way that's easy to understand and is always very useful. I've used many of your ideas in my everyday life. I have a son that's going to school for machining and I always tell him to watch your videos, just to help give him an edge on whats to come. Thanks for all your hard work.
That’s awesome work, Joe. Wished we lived closer. My shop is swamped with work. Everyone down here in Huntsville is suffering with “Trumponomics” and buried in defense contract work.
So do you make wall parts or fences ?? Just kidding. Glad to hear you're busy. I make a lot of ladders. New customers south of the border for some reason.
Another great video. Any chance on including some shots on you grinding the tool ends? I enjoy watching a master at work. Thank you for sharing all you knowledge.
OK so while you were turning the "cascabel" on your cannon I was looking it up to see what it was called and what it was for. Seems that you can get a bit of a varied description of the use but it was to hold ropes for pulling the cannon left or right for aiming in the azimuth and/or to restrain the recoil of the cannon when fired. Probably both. I never miss one of your videos. A fellow Texan here who would love to visit your shop.
Thanks Joe, really informative, only one point - you did the grinding of the profile tool off-camera, it would have been useful to me to see how you used the wheel edge to get the radius you wanted. I spent ages making a ball turning attachment to do a similar job which works fine but it needs a long mandrel overhang to get the tool round to the chuck side and then a profile tool to tidy up, if I had made a tool like yours it would have been better.
Joe I had to add this I haven't watched the rest of the video I had to congratulate you on being my hero. I was never very smart in school never learn drafting or any of this stuff and I've started to learn it as the years of went on. I have had that tool that you used to do the second Mark it's the little square metal thing with the adjustable bar. I've had that for years and never knew what it was for how to use it. Thank you very much. I know I'm admitting my stupidity but it was definitely refreshing just to see I can't wait to watch the rest of the video.
I used a similar method to turn 3/8" balls to form handrail supports, except they were drilled through for the 5/32" handrails to pass through, I drilled the cross holes through before forming the balls, then threaded the supports at the end (imagine the support post where the body of your cannon sits and just 5/32 dia. the inner form tool was shaped to produce flanges on the bottom end of the ball, so flanges, neck and bottom ball surface were consistent as all formed by one tool (all done on a unimat 3 lathe from 10mm brass stock)
I have an axle just waiting to be made into a cannon, but where can blueprints be found to make it historically accurate? Either Spanish naval or Civil War Napolionic style would work for me. Awesome videos...
Hi Joe, I have been a subscriber for some time now. Love your video's. It's good to see a proper tradesman at work. Grinding hi-speed steel isn't a lost art and nice to see the end results when it done corectly without the aid of computers. I have one critique, really Joe, filing on the lathe with your arm over the chuck was the first thing I was told not to do as an apprentice that and not to wear loose clothing. Other than that keep up the good work, I've picked up a few tips from your videos that were useful to me even after 48 years of being a journeyman. I guess your never to old to learn!
What you can't see is my arm resting securely on the head of my machine. I'd rather reach over while resting on a solid surface than lean in free hand. Been doing it this way for 47 years. It may not be for everybody, but I'm rock solid and confident.
Wow - first deep cut was smooth as smooth - great tool grind. My main comment, more a thought than criticism - is that I would have favored having the ball (pommel) somewhat larger diameter. Mainly thinking that because of how I have seen some cannons and also a matter of scale relative to the barrel dia and length etc. However, great to see how you applied the form tools - great result. Super demo Joe, thank you.
You are probably right Joe - I guess I was just wanting to see a bit larger - haven't done a search for pics as yet.... did find some pics and for sure you are dead right!! Just me being pedantic probably :) I'd missed your bonus last time - oops - point made :) Your turning did work out super.
Unfortunately I can only subscribe once Joe, I enjoyed these two videos very much and as usual also learned a bit on the journey. Thanks for your efforts to upload, cheers from John, Australia.
Beautiful job! I wonder how many folks caught on to how you were managing the load on the form tool by only using part of it at a time until maybe the end of cutting the ball.
Its fully engaged only at the end of the process. I can control the area that cuts by moving the carriage and cross slide alternately. Thats a good technique to reduce load and works well with tougher material.
Hey Chubbza5, always good to hear from you. Once I decided to increase the neck diameter for looks. I was confident the outer form tool contact would be OK. Close, but OK. I get lucky once in a while. Did you watch the very end bonus material. Thats exactly what happens when a form tool over powers a neck diameter. Gotta be careful. Take care.
When you were using the first tool and had to blend in the 15 degree angle and finish the ball simultaneously, would it have been easier to set the compound to 15 degrees and advance along the angled surface until the ball was finished? The angled surface would be turned continuously & not needed to be matched/blended.
agreed, feeding with the compound would have made this operation easier. if necessary, you could swivel the compound around to 165 degrees so that it's out of the way of the chuck jaws. great video though.
Joe, thanks for sharing your craft! Your skill and especially your gift for sharing what you know begs the question...why the heck is college so expensive when we have teachers like you? I may need to enroll in a program to cure myself of my addiction to learning from your channel.
@@joepie221 Hi Joe, I thought I was. I can always do the Chicago thing and vote twice . I find your company name interesting as my business is also innovation. Your keen comprehension of physics, forces, and vectors makes you a natural problem solver and innovator. Accelerated Fastening is my other channel. Tools to drill into ceilings from the floor with effective silica containment. Between you, This old Tony and Tubalcain there is an embarrassment of riches on becoming a better machinist. All of you have the humility that comes with being a true expert in your field. I feel so privileged to have the opportunity to learn from you. As for our veterans on this veterans day we must never forget their service and sacrifice. Will soon be moving my 4800 pound lathe into my basement workshop. If I survive the move look for a youtube video on the move.
@@reedfelton762 Well put. My youngest Daughter just got approved for the rank of Captain in the US air Force. I am a very proud Father of 3 great kids and the son of a former US Air Force staff Sgt and brilliant electronic engineer. Every day is a gift. I value and respect everyone that has ever put on a US uniform to serve this country.
Beautiful work! But I wonder if you could have used a hand graver and a steady rest for finessing the 15 deg shape like watchmakers do at their lathes? Keep up!
Hi Joe Nice work and great result. Just one comment - When starting the plunge cut - why did you not set the top slide over to the angle on the left and feed in down the angle so you would not have worries about positioning the tool' This would also mean that the tool would only be cutting on one side reducing the load on the tool.
Another great video Joe... Crazy how the barrel looks like brass in machining part of video but on the table at the end of video (next to other unfinished one) looks like its stainless.
Why didn't you cut the outer part of the ball first? Would have been much more rigid and less risk to snap it off. I would have been too chicken to do it this order.
Once I increased the neck diameter, I was fairly sure ( aka praying and hoping ) the ball wouldn't climb over the tool. If you notice the approach, I don't stay put until the very last moment. I alternate the approach contact to take the smallest possible cuts until the very end.
Thanks Chuck. This is turning out nice. I don't know if I should make the entire thing out of brass, or mix in the wood where it would originally be. What do you think?
Can you cut the other radius first, so you don't have the possibility of snapping the ball off? I'm new, so I may have missed something. The finish is great.
Hey Joe, what about showing how to machine interrupted threads (both internal and external) like what is found on more modern artillery pieces (breach plugs and receivers)? Thanks for sharing you skills.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Great stuff! You have inspired me to purchase my own mini lathe to learn a new skill. Really appreciate the way you explain the right and wrong ways, rather than just saying, “do it this way”. I wonder how many people will watch till the end for the “after credits”?
You are a true Artisan sir, thank you so much for showing you’re years of hard work and trade secrets. Not many people are willing to do so in such an incredible in-depth manner. Thank you again!
Always nice to find Pie in my inbox. Thanks Joe.
Very nicely done Joe. I make mini cannons that are made to fire, so I don't really bother to pretty them up to any great extent. Your videos have made me re-think that attitude. Thanks for posting!
Joe you are a true blessing to the machining community, from rank hobbyist to seasoned veteran. I have enjoyed and learned from each and every one of your videos since Outside Screwball recommended you. Keep on keepin' on!
Thank you very much.
I´m revisiting the the series of the cannons.Breathtaking and a real true act of love.Thank you.
Good afternoon Joe. I noticed you stopped to blow off the chips quite often during the ball forming. A necessary evil I agree, but i wanted to share my method. I use a Kool Mist Tankless Mister unit. I run it without coolant when I want a constant air flow to keep chips cleared for milling & drilling operations. The magnetic base provides a means to easily mount it and the flexible nozzle allows precise positioning of the air blast. The knob on the valve body provides control of air volume. Benefits include keeping chips cleared from cutter so you're not re-cutting chips, removing chips while drilling so they don't fall back into the hole when you pull out to clear the chips, provide a marginal cooling affect on the tool, keep chips cleared off vise jaws & parallels when changing parts, etc. I know there are companies that specifically make air blow off devices, but name a machine shop that doesn't have old misters that don't "work" because they don't siphon fluid anymore. Keep posting the great videos. Since subscribing, I started watching all the videos from your library from the beginning....only 5 months behind now. :-)
Look at those chips... How beautiful brass is!
I enjoy working with it.
Excellent as always. I can breath again now. Made me nervous just watching that ball being formed.
If you watch closely, you'll see that I alternate the contact points of the tool. The cutting goes from the front, to the rear, to the edge high spot and so on. This technique allows for a lot of material removal will very little part load. Only at the very end do I make a full radius cut.
I rarely comment, but I've watched all your stuff and it is all extremely well done. This particular video comes at a perfect time since I am arguing with some form tools for making some key chain fobs. Thanks for doing all the hard work that the rest of us can learn from! Also I love the little extra step on the second barrel, those are the little details that make the whole thing sing.
Thanks, I have to agree with you. That small step really makes the end POP. More than I thought it would.
It was so beautiful, you made it look as though the ball was always there just needing a bit of uncovering, but it was not so: There was extraordinary art and skill in the making of symmetric tools and in the cutting. Thank you for sharing and inspiring.
I had a plant manager tell me one time, " Machinists have the easiest job around. The part is already in there, we just have to remove the excess". There is some truth in that.
Once again Joe you have produced a quality piece of work, fantastic watch this take shape and being told how to do it the proper way, thanks mate 👍
Watched all 22 mins but took a break. Great video and can't to see the rest of the cannon assembled! Thanks Joe!
FYI...Just thought you might like to know the rear portion of the cannon barrel you are working on is called the "Cascable". It is the section of the barrel from breech to knob (the ball is called the knob). As an artilleryman for Colonial Williamsburg I demo mortar and cannon, along with long arms so the nomenclature of 18th century weapons is very important because of the many questions asked by visitors. There are many commands given during the loading and firing of a cannon. When to command to "make ready" is called out the "linstock" holding the" slow match" is brought to the "Cascable" and held there till the command to "fire" is called out. At that moment the slow match held by the linstock is placed at the "vent" BOOM!
FYI...The term is not Cascable, it is Cascabel from the Latin cascabellus meaning "small bell." and thence from 17th century Spanish Cascabel, "little round bell"
Don't think I've ever watched one of your videos and not learnt something new even on basic stuff I thought I already knew keep up the good work.
Thanks. Thats always the plan.
I think you made the 50k and tripled it ! Good for you. Watching again 4 years later. 🙂
Oh yes, and thank you very much for all this informative and useful videos, it improves and tackles a lot of milling and turning jobs.The first one for me was your threading video from head stock to tail stock! Since then I got great results, without any potential danger!! Please keep going!
That was my very first machining video. Thanks for watching.
That's a beautiful finished item and the chips were "right handsome."
A million dittos of all the nice great comments everyone has commented on your awesome work!!! Thanks, Joe!!!
Nice approach using the form tool, I've always had trouble understanding how to cut using a form tool.
It was mesmerizing watching your turn the ball f the cannon. Awesome work.
Great as usual. Always learning new ways to think outside the box from you. Thanks Joe
As always informative Joe. I learn something new every time I see your videos.
One way I have used to get a true circular quadrant is to install a piece of roundbar of the exact diameter in a drill press and use grinding paste on it to smooth off the high spots on the form tool. Run the drill press at high speed while plunging it up and down. If the roundbar is long enough, it can be advanced out of the chuck so that the finishing is done at the exact radius.
I've done that with ball bearings in spherical detent features.
Some day I'm going to win a lottery and then I'm going to pay you handsomely to spend a few days with me in my shop teaching me stuff! (Maybe I'll have to upgrade from my Asian 10" lathe). But don't loose too much sleep over that statement cuz I don't buy lottery tickets very often. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with those of us that are less than rich or famous! God bless you.
I would subscribe again too if I could Joe. I am not a machinest in any form or fashion, but I love watching and if I was teaching this your channel would be mandatory watching.
honestly i liked the .075 step before the taper as seen @6:54. gives it some more character and is seen on many old cannons. that being said thanx for the lessons. i've learned a lot from watching
There are 2 of these. One has a small step and I do prefer that as well. I may add it to the other one.
Nice demo of the form tools, beautiful finish job!
Many thanks for the great video. I would really have liked to watch how you free-hand such a precise radius on the tool. Maybe a short video on grinder tips and tricks? Part 1 was a great intro to dressing the wheel but sure there is a lot more to be learned,
"Watch the Shine", WOW you're not kidding Joe, that really POPS! Yeah I already did my part pushing you over 50,000 SUBS, I subscribed about a year ago, LOL! As always thanks for the great show and info. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
When you mentioned about the thin section breaking because of cutting torque i was holding my breath while you were doing the back side of ball , Even though you had about an inch of cutter engaged doing the front side of ball there was almost no chatter ( you could hear some but I couldn't see it?) The finish came out great. Pretty sure that without a ball cutter would not have been possible on asmall hobby lathe? (at least not without a lot of filing and emery work to remove chatter marks) Small hobby lathes are just not rigid enough and probably wouldn't have enough power to make that depth/width of cut?
Turned out beautiful. Enjoyed it Joe, as always.
At one point (9:10 or so) you had a step on the straight taper and I thought that was a nice feature but your way looks good too. Thanks for not keeping us in suspense for too long! 😁
Very nice. I look forward to seeing how you are going to fasten the trunnions.
Thanks Joe always a pleasure to watch you.You make it look easy
Thanks. After 47 years of doing this, sometimes I feel like I'm just watching my hands do the work. This cannon is coming out nice.
Hey im a subscriber and i paused to read that list lol. Funny list tho. I have to say tho, i really enjoy your content and you have a way of breaking down things in a way that's easy to understand and is always very useful. I've used many of your ideas in my everyday life. I have a son that's going to school for machining and I always tell him to watch your videos, just to help give him an edge on whats to come. Thanks for all your hard work.
That’s awesome work, Joe. Wished we lived closer. My shop is swamped with work. Everyone down here in Huntsville is suffering with “Trumponomics” and buried in defense contract work.
So do you make wall parts or fences ?? Just kidding. Glad to hear you're busy. I make a lot of ladders. New customers south of the border for some reason.
Love your work, your methods make sense. I learn from every video. Thank you.
That was totally amazing how you massaged it into perfection.
I have to say Joe that last operation gave me some major pucker factor , LOL . Beautiful job !
No balls, no bucks. I was also really hoping it didn't blow up. ( I knew it would be OK)
I wish I had half of your Brain. Great and Informative Work.
Thank you.
gorgeous piece. can't thank you enough for your contributions. I've learned so much from you.
Another great video. Any chance on including some shots on you grinding the tool ends?
I enjoy watching a master at work. Thank you for sharing all you knowledge.
OK so while you were turning the "cascabel" on your cannon I was looking it up to see what it was called and what it was for. Seems that you can get a bit of a varied description of the use but it was to hold ropes for pulling the cannon left or right for aiming in the azimuth and/or to restrain the recoil of the cannon when fired. Probably both. I never miss one of your videos. A fellow Texan here who would love to visit your shop.
If you are ever in the area, stop in.
You make all of this look so easy, wish I had room for a decent shop.
Hey, anybody can do the job with good tools. It takes a true craftsman to get it done with what on hand.
Thanks Joe, really informative, only one point - you did the grinding of the profile tool off-camera, it would have been useful to me to see how you used the wheel edge to get the radius you wanted. I spent ages making a ball turning attachment to do a similar job which works fine but it needs a long mandrel overhang to get the tool round to the chuck side and then a profile tool to tidy up, if I had made a tool like yours it would have been better.
I am just blown away watching this video.
I am hoping the final product is what I am envisioning. So far, so good.
I always enjoy the attention to detail.
Joe I had to add this I haven't watched the rest of the video I had to congratulate you on being my hero. I was never very smart in school never learn drafting or any of this stuff and I've started to learn it as the years of went on. I have had that tool that you used to do the second Mark it's the little square metal thing with the adjustable bar. I've had that for years and never knew what it was for how to use it. Thank you very much. I know I'm admitting my stupidity but it was definitely refreshing just to see I can't wait to watch the rest of the video.
I like the reveal you left on the second one better - cool project.
Me too. I'm really looking forward to doing the wheels.
I used a similar method to turn 3/8" balls to form handrail supports, except they were drilled through for the 5/32" handrails to pass through, I drilled the cross holes through before forming the balls, then threaded the supports at the end (imagine the support post where the body of your cannon sits and just 5/32 dia. the inner form tool was shaped to produce flanges on the bottom end of the ball, so flanges, neck and bottom ball surface were consistent as all formed by one tool (all done on a unimat 3 lathe from 10mm brass stock)
Joe,
I was thinking a step on the 15 deg form would look nice and sure enough you made one on the other barrel. Nice job and thanks for the tips.
I like that better as well. I'll add it to the other barrel.
I have an axle just waiting to be made into a cannon, but where can blueprints be found to make it historically accurate? Either Spanish naval or Civil War Napolionic style would work for me. Awesome videos...
Nice to see your fine work on a piece of jewellery !
One of my favorite TH-camrs, always.
Thank you
who needs a Haas! Very nicely done.. Thanks for sharing
CNC's just do it faster.
Amazing finish on your cannon. Keep up your great work and your explanations :)
Hi Joe, I have been a subscriber for some time now. Love your video's. It's good to see a proper tradesman at work. Grinding hi-speed steel isn't a lost art and nice to see the end results when it done corectly without the aid of computers. I have one critique, really Joe, filing on the lathe with your arm over the chuck was the first thing I was told not to do as an apprentice that and not to wear loose clothing. Other than that keep up the good work, I've picked up a few tips from your videos that were useful to me even after 48 years of being a journeyman. I guess your never to old to learn!
What you can't see is my arm resting securely on the head of my machine. I'd rather reach over while resting on a solid surface than lean in free hand. Been doing it this way for 47 years. It may not be for everybody, but I'm rock solid and confident.
sorry Joe I have to tell you that your video's are the most informative on youtube that I have seen in 3 years now I tried to break it to you softly .
Thank you.
your welcome
Beautiful patient work. Thanks Joe.
Thank you. I am looking forward to getting back to the project as time permits.
Wow - first deep cut was smooth as smooth - great tool grind.
My main comment, more a thought than criticism - is that I would have favored having the ball (pommel) somewhat larger diameter. Mainly thinking that because of how I have seen some cannons and also a matter of scale relative to the barrel dia and length etc.
However, great to see how you applied the form tools - great result. Super demo Joe, thank you.
I believe I read the diameter of that feature was inline with the bore size. Anybody care to comment??
You are probably right Joe - I guess I was just wanting to see a bit larger - haven't done a search for pics as yet.... did find some pics and for sure you are dead right!! Just me being pedantic probably :)
I'd missed your bonus last time - oops - point made :)
Your turning did work out super.
Unfortunately I can only subscribe once Joe, I enjoyed these two videos very much and as usual also learned a bit on the journey. Thanks for your efforts to upload, cheers from John, Australia.
Joe Pieczynski AKA the metal wizard. as always, awesome vid joe!
Thanks. I'm looking forward to doing the wheels.
Incredible Joe...and well worth the wait. Just like Cruz, your a winner !!
Thank you. I've been wanting to do this for 30 years. Its very therapeutic.
Which of the 2 styles shown do you like better. The nose and rear end details have subtle differences.
@@joepie221 Joe, I'll be ecstatic with either one. Your work, and watching this progression is incredibly awesome.
Beautiful job! I wonder how many folks caught on to how you were managing the load on the form tool by only using part of it at a time until maybe the end of cutting the ball.
Whilst he skilfully managed the use, it's really not possible to engage a radius tool fully, unless it's against a matching radius.
Its fully engaged only at the end of the process. I can control the area that cuts by moving the carriage and cross slide alternately. Thats a good technique to reduce load and works well with tougher material.
Very surprised to see that outside diameter cut last... the "cascabel". beautiful work! I love the lathe
Hey Chubbza5, always good to hear from you. Once I decided to increase the neck diameter for looks. I was confident the outer form tool contact would be OK. Close, but OK. I get lucky once in a while. Did you watch the very end bonus material. Thats exactly what happens when a form tool over powers a neck diameter. Gotta be careful. Take care.
@@joepie221 Took a hell of a lot longer to snap off that I had imagined! Beautiful piece, I'd like to see it in person some day once it's finished.
My shop door is always open to you. Stop in if you are ever in the area.
Really nice work. How about showing how the holder was made to protect the barrel?
When you were using the first tool and had to blend in the 15 degree angle and finish the ball simultaneously, would it have been easier to set the compound to 15 degrees and advance along the angled surface until the ball was finished?
The angled surface would be turned continuously & not needed to be matched/blended.
agreed, feeding with the compound would have made this operation easier. if necessary, you could swivel the compound around to 165 degrees so that it's out of the way of the chuck jaws. great video though.
I mentioned that as an option on the whiteboard, but opted to do the entire feature with form tools to demonstrate their value.
That was nice, man I hope to get that good, but first I got to get the tools. Still learning.
You are the master!!! Love the videos you put out . Thank you
Thanks. I hope to finish this soon. Stay tuned.
I never thought about using ScotchBrite. I will now. Thanks Joe!
Follow it up with 000 steel wool and light oil or water.
K Gee This ain’t your wife’s scotchbrite for cleaning pots. This scotchbrite comes from MRO or tool vendors in various grits indicated by color.
@@martybadboy Now you tell me! better hide the evidence.
great video! would love to see footage of the actual grinding of the tool.
cheers
Teun
All I can say is wow! Thanks for sharing.
I enjoy your work. I am making the chains for my cannon now.
Very beautiful Canon Mr. Joe
Joe, thanks for sharing your craft! Your skill and especially your gift for sharing what you know begs the question...why the heck is college so expensive when we have teachers like you? I may need to enroll in a program to cure myself of my addiction to learning from your channel.
Nah. Stick with it.
@@joepie221 Absolutly!
I am just curious. Are you a subscriber. Its OK either way. Your channel says no, but that could be a setting.
@@joepie221 Hi Joe, I thought I was. I can always do the Chicago thing and vote twice . I find your company name interesting as my business is also innovation. Your keen comprehension of physics, forces, and vectors makes you a natural problem solver and innovator. Accelerated Fastening is my other channel. Tools to drill into ceilings from the floor with effective silica containment. Between you, This old Tony and Tubalcain there is an embarrassment of riches on becoming a better machinist. All of you have the humility that comes with being a true expert in your field. I feel so privileged to have the opportunity to learn from you. As for our veterans on this veterans day we must never forget their service and sacrifice. Will soon be moving my 4800 pound lathe into my basement workshop. If I survive the move look for a youtube video on the move.
@@reedfelton762 Well put. My youngest Daughter just got approved for the rank of Captain in the US air Force. I am a very proud Father of 3 great kids and the son of a former US Air Force staff Sgt and brilliant electronic engineer. Every day is a gift. I value and respect everyone that has ever put on a US uniform to serve this country.
Really good work. I learned a few things as usual. Thank you Joe. Mal
Well done Joe! You should do this for a living.
I'm still not sure what I want to do when I grow up.
Noice! Nothing like shiny brass.
Beautiful work! But I wonder if you could have used a hand graver and a steady rest for finessing the 15 deg shape like watchmakers do at their lathes? Keep up!
That's how I put all the fine details on my cannons, and also the miniature surveying instruments I build.
I see a lot of guys do that. It freaks me out. Thats a wood worker technique, but it seems to work.
Joe nice piece of professional work.
Thanks. I'm laying out the wheels now.
He necked it down BEFORE forming the spherical end ?
I hope you silver solder the trunnions on . Im not sure about loctite press fitting things that shoot ....
Hi Joe Nice work and great result. Just one comment - When starting the plunge cut - why did you not set the top slide over to the angle on the left and feed in down the angle so you would not have worries about positioning the tool' This would also mean that the tool would only be cutting on one side reducing the load on the tool.
Please watch part 1 on preparing the grinder
Another great video Joe...
Crazy how the barrel looks like brass in machining part of video but on the table at the end of video (next to other unfinished one) looks like its stainless.
I've heard that called black chrome. The shine tones down on the gold.
Great work. Love the shine!
thanks. Me too.
You almost got a perfect ball. Thanks for sharing.
They are very close to perfectly round. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful job Joe love the video
Why didn't you cut the outer part of the ball first? Would have been much more rigid and less risk to snap it off. I would have been too chicken to do it this order.
Just curious, wonder how many other viewers were sitting on the edge of their chair for those final cuts on the ball?
Once I increased the neck diameter, I was fairly sure ( aka praying and hoping ) the ball wouldn't climb over the tool. If you notice the approach, I don't stay put until the very last moment. I alternate the approach contact to take the smallest possible cuts until the very end.
@@joepie221 (aka cut the camera off and start cussing), Haha,, great work , Joe, it turned out beautiful.
BTW , I'm not sure if you saved it or it was all of us praying it didn't climb over
@@clintwalker316 Thanks. The video on making the segmented spoked wheels is next.
G’day Joe, very nice indeed. Cheers Peter
awesome video, discussion, demonstration, build
Thanks Chuck. This is turning out nice. I don't know if I should make the entire thing out of brass, or mix in the wood where it would originally be. What do you think?
Looking forward to seeing the Gun Carriages??
Can you cut the other radius first, so you don't have the possibility of snapping the ball off? I'm new, so I may have missed something. The finish is great.
Hey Joe, what about showing how to machine interrupted threads (both internal and external) like what is found on more modern artillery pieces (breach plugs and receivers)?
Thanks for sharing you skills.
Conventional threading with secondary milling reliefs. ( I believe )
Very useful demonstration, thanks Joe! How well would a similar approach work for 304 stainless steel ?
Fantastic work Joe! I also live in Austin
I love Austin. Great place to live.
A true Master and a Teacher.
For concave radii on the lathe I use a ball-endmill w/1 flute ground off. For convex radii I use a corner-rounding endmill.
Great video Superb work Thanks Joe