Thank you so much for this video, I was so stressed about my carbon build up, you are amazing and got my mind gears turning!!! What we did....We did not remove the unit, we left it fully installed, unclipped the wire connection inside the metal inlet hose under the vehicle (by pushing in the metal bar on the clip, then pulling.... thank you Webasto for answering the phone to tell me how this clip released), we used two clear approx 3/8" hoses; feed one hose up the exhaust metal tube until it stopped at the heater and one up the other metal tube with the wire inside also until it stopped at the heater, alternated applying compressed air to each hose and tapped the Webasto heater unit GENTLY while applying air with a rubber mallet to shake the carbon loose and keep it moving with the air. Everytime I GENTLY tapped the Webasto, large chucks came out ...tapping it while applying air was a key element to the removing the carbon. IT WORKED...ITS BLOWING HEAT. THANK YOU THANK YOU....THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING THIS KNOWLEDGE WITH THE AIR COMPRESSOR. We tried a small compressor first which didnt work, the large compressor 4' high compressor worked great with enough air to do the job. I am very excited, if you cant tell LOL and thank you again!! Huge Heart EMOJI! The Carbon Removal Team: Karen(Daughter/Van Owner), John(Dad) and Gary(Neighbor)
That's awesome! You're welcome, you're welcome...you're welcome. Glad my experiences helped you out. Who knew watching a cloud of black soot come out of your heater would feel so good :) I like the tapping trick and will have to try that if I every do it again. My heater has been blowing heat ever since I did this. So you should be good to go as long as you keep an eye on your elevation. Right now we're sitting on a beach in Baja so no heat required :) Safe travels!
Appreciate you sharing a LOT of information re these type of heaters. Bottom line IMO anyways is: A BIG THUMBS DOWN. Why? Yes it produces good clean heated air but the costs: 1.) Amazon price currently with install kit: $1500 !!!!! 2.) Extensive....Extensive challenge to install properly. 3.) Altitude restriction. 4.) How to repair when a problem occurs? 5.) I could only find the diesel fuel version for the above price. And since my Fleetwood Southwind is gas powered there is a BIG pain in the arse of mounting a small fuel tank and keeping it full......Every few days is what my research shows. That's a problem when you're boon docking for at least a week at a time but more often 14 days. And handling diesel fuel is not fun. There are probably more downsides but this is MORE THAN ENOUGH for any reasonable person to make a NO/GO decision on. EDIT: I almost forgot one more BIG DOWNSIDE: If you're not talented enough like RV with Tito here (me) then you have to pay a smarter person to install this contraption and all of it's attributes . So figure $125/hr. X at least 4 hours = $500. So add that to the $1500 product costs and you're up to an astronomical $2000 for something that has definite limitations, no warranty and a pain to remove to fix and reinstall. To leave on a positive note.......that you VERY MUCH for all the information you share here RV with Tito !!!
We have recently had an Eberspacher diesel air heater fitted to out T5 VW camper here in the U.K. according to the instruction book it will automatically compensate for altitude up to 3000 metres/10,000ft, I will keep an eye on the exhaust for soot build up anyway just in case. Helpful vid 👍🏻🇬🇧
Nice. Webasto also has a larger version that has an altitude adjustment. Not this one though. Either way, I'm sure there's potential for soot build-up in all the units.
Thank you, Brian for always going the extra mile for us, soot on the face and all, to make well informed decisions. I've been on the fence about these heaters. I think I'll keep with my LP for now. Especially with the price of fuel, diesel and gas. I'll invest the money in upgrading my Carbon monoxide detectors since mine are really old. Take care! 😁
You're welcome. Definitely replace those detectors regularly even though they look fine. I was on the fence about keeping the LP heater and was waiting until I could thoroughly test the Webasto. Now I know.
At a very high elevation, a wood stove with hardwood or auto-feed wood pellets that burns hot is the best. Add a stovetop eco fan and a 12v fan on the ceiling to circulate the heat, you will be toasty warm all night. As for your heater. Some of them have a high-altitude kit that makes it usable at high altitudes. I also see some hacks where the van dweller adds a tiny fan(the one similar to nature head fan etc) with adjustable speed to blow more air into the unit via the air intake into the combusting chamber. That adds more air to combusting at higher altitudes. The trick is the adjustable speed with which you have to tinker with. Totally enjoy all the valuable knowledge you shared on your channel. Many thumbs up!
This is great! Thanks for sharing what happened to your unit and how you got it going again. I installed my unit early in the year but didn't hit the road until late spring. I've used it only twice so far but expect to use it a lot as winter comes. The video with the Webasto tech was extremely interesting: basically, try to run it on high as much as possible to reduce soot accumulation-even to the point of opening a window to make it work harder and thus cleaner. This will also allow the burner to last longer. The other interesting thing is that the high altitude adjustment is more usable for the gasoline version compared to the diesel version. He also recommended not using it above 4900ft...though many people do so, it just means the carbon builds up more quickly. Running it on high is another way to clean the carbon without using compressed air. Every current or potential owner should watch that video. I'm still very happy with my decision and now I know how to maintain it.
Yes. I still love the heater and plan to continue using it. I just needed to know first hand what it's limitations were and the Webasto tech's advice was very helpful. I will continue to follow those tips. Thanks for the comment!
So two things. One if you get a lockout code it’s from too many failed starts. The fix is to pull the fuse wait five seconds then try again. But there’s usually a reason why it’s not starting. Two. If you want a clean burn, use kerosene. I know that in the diesel units you can burn kerosene and they burn clean no carbon buildup. and my last comment is to run these units hot. Setting it at low temperature creates more buildup and will foul the heating element.
Is this the gasoline or diesel model? We just used our cheap chinese diesel heater for about a month camped at 14000 ft, making expeditions in the vehicle up to over 19000 ft. Other than the fuel filter breaking in half didnt have any problems. However we are going to go with all gasoline appliances with our next vehicle so we will probably be buying a webasto or eberspacher. Has it given you anymore problems since this cleaning?
It's the gas model and has been working fine since. I've cleaned it out recently again with the compressor but didn't have to remove it to do it. I do have a cheap diesel one in my shop too. Works great once I got all the issues ironed out.
Commenting here on your prior Webasto install video as well as this update. I really, really appreciate the quality of your presentations on this heater and your level of effort to help the viewing community. We are about to order our 2023 Dodge ProMaster this weekend (hopefully). I’ve been pretty sure I wanted to go with this heater for some time, but the prospect of installing it has kept me quite nervous about the whole thing. A lot of people (van folks) seem to quadruple the complexity via their choice of installation location, especially under the passenger seat. Watching you place yours more toward the rear helped me visualize the process better. I also appreciate your comments about where you got the unit and the issue of where it’s coming from, for US customers. I’m not sure if I will order mine from Amazon or try to find the US distributor? Anyway, thanks very much for your video and all the very valuable information. If I might ask one question? You said you’ve ran yours all night and much of the day as well… do you have a ballpark Idea on how much petrol you used for say, an 8 hour period (I realize it would be a rough guess)? Thanks again.
The fuel consumption varies depending on the temperature setting. On max, you're probably looking at around 0.4 gallons in an 8 hour period (about 1 to 1.5 gallons in 24 hrs). I removed it from our Class C when we sold it. I now have it installed in our 34 ft Class A motorhome. I have it installed outside the living area in the rear of the coach. I piped the heat into the existing duct system. It doesn't blow hard, but keeps us warm. We love it. Best of luck with your ProMaster.
Great information, thanks for sharing. I was planning to use a gas Webasto for my upcoming van conversion, this video makes me pause. The thought of removing it on a yearly basis for cleaning is not appealing. Still didn't do enough research, maybe there are heaters with automatic altitude mixture control.
I have the same Russian model, same issue, broke down in Colorado. Any idea how to donthr Altitude adjustment with this Russian screen??? everything online is for the US dial thermostat. Great Vid!
@@RVwithTito I found out that you have to have the dial reostat in order to do the adjustment. The russian multi control wont work on any american heater but im wondering if the US reostat would work on russian heater
You do a very good job 👍 I watched your earlier video and said this is the way to go !! I then bid on a used unit only then to find the issue with high altitude.. I'm at 9300 now I'm trying to retract my bid... This could have been a great solution!! Thanks
I have a 100 series Aqua Hot in my motorhome and they do say not to short cycle the unit. (let it shut down on it's own before shutting it off) I would remove the muffler to help it increase air flow. My AH does not have one and is quite.
Hi Brian , I have the chinesse knockoff , I have a friend that his soots up all the time ,,Me NO as i always run the sucker at full heat it burns the carbon off ,, At least 2 hours full heat and it will clean (Burn) the carbon off ,,, we have used ours at the snowy we have never had a drama at all Rob NSW Australia
Good Morning, do I understand you to say you have a gasoline fired Webasto knock off? I love Brian's work and am seriously considering switching from our LPG furnace. BUT I can't see spending $1,500 to replace an appliance I already have that works. I considered mounting a two or three gallon tank and installing a diesel fired knock off but then I'm carrying around an additional type of fuel. And how much diesel fuel do I want to keep available and where. Except for the Webasto unit in Brian's excellent video I haven't seen a gasoline fired air heater. Please let me know about it if you do have a gasoline fired knock off. Thanks and best regards!
I am not sure on the webasto but the cheap chinesse ones you can adjust the fuel delivery settings to compensate for the altitude and such and they will work fine at really high altitudes if adjusted and there are plenty of known settings for them for various altitudes.
Good repair, at 10,000 ft compared to sea level, atm. pressure drop by 68% (14.7psi to 10.1) and air density drops by 73% (23.8 lb/ft3 to 17.6), to keep the ideal air/fuel ratio, try to reduce the fuel by 50% and use a booster pump to increase airflow. Since you have a full shop, it is worth a try. I'm certainly Webssto know that but they do not care enough to fix it.
My mother-in-law has this exact one. I just tore it apart yesterday because it wasn't working, same code as yours. There was SO much carbon build up in the unit that every fin was clogged up in the combustion chamber. She has been traveling at no more than 4000ft and always runs it high for 10min after each use, and all of the other rules to follow etc. The exhaust, once removed, was so clogged that when I sprayed high pressure non-chlorinated brake cleaner through it, it wouldn't even come out of the bottom. I'm my opinion, I'd never recommend this unit to anyone. It's not something an older woman that's been in sales her whole life would be able to tackle. The builder of her RV basically said that most people learn to take care of their own problems and not take it for service all the time. (Translation- I put in expensive junk, leave me alone now because I've been paid in full.) This is the second time that her heater has had to be fully disassembled to have carbon buildup removed. The little bit you got out of yours was nothing compared to what I cleaned out of her heater.
@@raphofthehills4405 gas version. She only had the build for 5 months or so and only needed to run the heater so often in the time frame. She's a tad over a year now and had to have it rebuilt twice.
@@raphofthehills4405 she had her propane and oven/stove removed for more storage, her build design is pretty terrible in my opinion. Had she still kept her propane, I would've swapped out her furnace for a small Suburban. Now she has a huge toolbox for storage, bike rack, and gas cans on the rear so I have nowhere to mount external propane tanks if she wanted to change over. If I was building my own, I'd have a propane Suburban or something similar. They might not last forever either but they sure are easy to work on or swap out. I told her to always try and find a place to plug in and run electric. The only way her Webasto will last is if she only uses it for emergencies.
Second day parked at 9000 ft with my webasto 2000stc. Heat just randomly shut off. Checked the exhaust pipe and there was tons of soot. :( Guess I'm going to have a old night and hopefully be able to clean it tomorrow
@@RVwithTito I ended up taking mine apart and the process wasn't that bad. I couldn't believe how much buildup there was on the burner and in the actual aluminum case. I ran my heater on low (no altitude adjustment) the first night. Pretty sure that's what did it haha, but it's much cleaner now and I'm going to do the altitude adjustment as soon as I find a wire to ground the diagnostic cable.
I wonder if a reset would allow a hot burn to clean out the heater below 4900 feet. Hate to pull out the compressor unless I have to. Thanks for the video!
Good morning Brian and everybody! I took a brief respite over the summer from working on this Minnie Winnie due in part for a 10-day vacation in the Keys in July and just the heat in general for summertime however I am back working on the motorhome. I still have the passenger-side filon from side door on back completely removed and cleaned up. I am starting to sand down what's left of the luon on the motorhome that I could not remove with my Razor scraper. I think I'm still ahead of the game since I purchased this for 4 grand. I cashed out some Civic Crypto that tripled in price last night and will use that money to pay for my new steps which I just ordered, a lot of the money I am spending is coming from my crypto portfolio which is all house money! Have a great weekend
I'm sure you could. If you could easily remove the intake and exhaust from outside, then you wouldn't have to remove the entire unit. I hoped to try that on mine, but it was too difficult to access while installed.
Good video. I carry a small compressor with me. Could you blow the soot out the exhaust on the road without having to pull the unit? Must be a way to devise a blowout connection near the intake while boondocking of course. Not in a park. Lol how difficult is it to remove? Thinking about getting one for my a class. I guess you could use propane heat at higher elevations.
If you mount it in a more accessible location, then it's easier to remove. Mine was in a pretty tight spot. It's recommended that you replace the floor gasket when you reinstall though. I'm sure you could attempt to blow it out on the road as long as you have some decent pressure in your compressor. Yup. I left a couple ducts on the LP heater just in case, good thing.
It sounds like it doesn't have an automatic mixture control and above 3000' MSL generally speaking, it needs to have the mixture adjusted to the density altitude range you're in. Gasloline needs a 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio, and as the air thins from altitude together with temperature/humidity, it will burn too rich at the sea level/MSL setting and leave a lot of carbon fouling as well as wasting fuel, or just not ignite as you have experienced. Reciprocating airplane engines are a good example of this, and if if you can adjust the fuel mixture and monitor the temperature, the general proceedure is to lean the fuel mixture until the running temperature peaks, which is where the combustion is most efficient, and then richen it slightly. Airplane engines use fuel for cooling, so they are normally leaned 25 deg rich of peak, but since this is a heater, the manufacturer has probably determined the best fuel/air ration for it's longevity. I would guess that if it's adjustable, you can work out a chart based on density altitude for it and do adjustments periodically as needed. Temperature/humidity have a great impact on density altitude, where the air density is equivalent to a higher altitude at standard temp and pressure, aka the normal adiabiatic lapse rate -- for example, a cold morning at 7,000' can elevate to a density altitude of 10,000' by late morning as the sun warms the area up into the 80's and 90's.
This is so discouraging. I go from about 900 feet, not much above sea level to high in the Colorado mountains at 8K to 10 or 11K. Not sure what kind of heater to get. If that's what the heater sounds like running strong , oh dear. What kind of LP heater do you have? I don't want something that puts a lot of condensation in the air. I have a 136" wheel base HighRoof 2014 Gas Promaster, so not a large space to heat. I can't quite imagine running something full blast without the windows and doors open. Or is there a small one?
You mentioned that you would use your LP heater above certain elevations. Is there not an elevation restriction with all gas fired heaters furnaces, hot water, etc.? I thought I saw something like 2000 feet.
I'm researching diesel air heaters for my 25 foot travel trailer and have read that they put out a lot of heat. I've also read, as you mentioned, that they need to run on high periodically to clean out the chamber. I've noticed on several of the TH-cam channels that most people install a 5kw unit and run it on low most of the time to reduce the noise. I'm thinking I will install a 2kw unit and run it on high much of the time. I'm assuming your 2000 is a 2kw unit. Does it put out enough heat to heat your Class A? If it does, I'm sure a 2kw unit would heat my trailer.
I definitely could heat up the class A. I plan to install this one in the Class A and use it this winter. I've found the biggest source of air noise is the size of the register. Lots of air going through a small hole with diverters. If you adapt the output to a 3" or larger register/opening, then is gets quieter.
Just a quick thought or suggestion. Would a long handled bottle brush have helped inside along with the air blasts? Have peeked some concern about our Alde hydronic system at high altitude. Works as a radiant heater instead of forced air.
This sounds extremely stupid, but maybe so, maybe not. I keep thinking that if you got the thing an oxygen concentrator or a CPAP, then you could give it extra oxygen, just like you would yourself, if you need it at higher altitudes. You could take turns with the heater for the supplemental oxygen treatment! I know: sounds stupid. But I'm not sure. I keep thinking about it. In a way, it seems like it could be a simple solution that might work well, when or if you need it, and also be useful for other things.
I have the same Russian version. My plan was to just carry a second burner and carb cleaner. But now I might try my on board air compressor with carb cleaner down the intake every morning at high altitude. What do you think ?
Worth a try. My guess is that you won't get it all out, but maybe enough. I still plan to take it apart and do a full clean at some point. But it's working well now.
I have used the heater a bit during the summer but have had trouble that it would run two hours and shut off. Not sure if I’m doing something wrong. Have you had that problem on your heater.
How long had it been since you cleaned it or installed? I recently watched van city and he cleaned his at 2 yrs and it was pretty clean yet but he did mention he runs his full bore most of the time. Guess next time youll use a shop vac, LOL! Informative vid as all of yours seem to be. Currious why you didnt do a thorough clean as you allready had it out and had the parts.
I haven't cleaned it since. It's currently installed in our Class A motorhome and works fine. I do run it on full blast more often than before to keep it cleaned out.
@@tim1299 I have a diesel in the shop now. One of the cheapo all in one units. It's working fine now but what junk. Bad design. It didn't even work when I got it because the fan wouldn't even spin. Took it apart and modified some pieces to get it working...then it leaked diesel everywhere. I'm warm now and it was cheap in all respects.
@@RVwithTito Sorry to hear that. My 1976 Honey class C I have owned since 1996 is not quite worth the gas version and not in my budget . Others I have followed do seem to have better success. I would rather not have two types of fuel on board, but at gas prices at record highs , and being in Ohio , getting to the west coast , isn't in my budget either. And this RV could go everywhere - sweetest 350 hp with 68,000 miles. thanks . Enjoy your channel !
Interesting video as usual. I live in the southeast and don't need one of those heaters but your video was very fun to watch. But, all I could think of when you were blowing out that soot in the shop was, glad your wife didn't see you. My wife would have shot me. Oh geez, when did I lose my man license. Oh yeah, when I replaced it with a marriage license. Okay now. Don't a whole bunch of you get mad at me. It's just a joke. I'm married 48 years and wouldn't change a thing. Anyway, another great video. Thanks!
I just got to Colorado at 6000 ft and it ran for 4 hours then a light smell started and I got your same error codes. I've been at sea level all winter so far. Not sure what to do here, how could carbon build up in 4 hours...
@@RVwithTito I'm in Denver still, took it apart from the bottom and blew it out with canned air. Lots of black came out. I'm thinking to not even try to turn it on until getting below 4900 ft.
It may work for a bit, but you'll probably be cleaning it a lot. If you run it hot frequently, it will help. I've used it up to 5500ft in Utah and Colorado without issue. When I tried it at 7500 and 10000 in Colorado, it eventually stopped working. Then I made this video :) The diesel version may work better at elevation than the gas one that I have.
I thought you had taken the LP heater out. I put in a diesel heater but left my LP in so I would have the option. Sounds like a good idea for higher elevations. Thanks for testing.
Nope. I left it in until I was able to fully test the Webasto. Good thing. I''m not using all of the registers (just two) but it's enough to heat the RV.
So for a cool project you could add a pressurized blower to the system with a variable speed drive so that you could increase the air density mix based on the altitude, at 6,000 ft you have 20% less oxygen available, the other suggestion which would be less cool but probably easier to implement is leaning it out ... maybe pwm the injector ... negative is less heat out of it
Had to laugh you talked about gas heater, being in europe I assumed LPG. Then you talk about no propane... Dumb me. Was looking at heaters for boats. Webasto rep said something very similar. Oversizing the heater causes it to cycle on/off frequently, never gets hot enough to self clean... Not sure if I'd get a clone, although they seem to be getting good feedback. Gas (LPG) leaks scare me. Guess the answer is regular servicing.
I have a China diesel heater in my class C that I full time in here in the North East. It was $115, will be going into my 3rd winter. Adding a second one for the bedroom area. So def get one for your shop. They actually have minimal issues and are very easy and inexpensive to repair. Plenty of vids out there. Thanks for elevation info. 👍
Yes. I'm familiar. I think I will. I'm tired of using LP in the shop to keep warm. A 5L diesel tank is no biggie. Have already thought of how/where I'd hook one up :)
@@RVwithTito sounds about right. I set it at 20-25 deg Celsius and it's 24/7. Uses about a gal a day. I use a 5gal. Jerry can for a fuel tank. Fill it every 4-5 days
Darn! I was really hoping to use a Webesto heater to get off of propane while wintering in Breckenridge. I guess I'm stuck kneeling at the altar of AmeriGas.
Hmmm. I suppose that depends on where you live/camp. It's probably not worth it if you live at high elevation without some kind of elevation adjustment (or different model). At lower elevations (below 5000ft) it has worked flawlessly as long as you use it regularly.
That's some really good to know information. I still am kind of Leary of using gasoline 🙄 but I guess it's OK I wonder how elevation affects the diesel heater?? I think this is one time where you should have worn a mask.😷
That is a JOKE that you can't use a HEATER above 4,900 feet. I LIVE AT 4,500 now.. FAIL on their part! ! ! HELLO, it gets COLD up here in Tahoe at 7,000 PLUS feet! ! !
Great Video! _Do Not buy This Unit!_ used it two nights at 8-9000 feet. It Now Does not work. It's almost brand new. Cost me nearly $2000. Completely unacceptable that Webasto does not allow for it to be leaned out for altitude. Crappy engineering.
All that carbon buildup is why I stick with my LPG furnace I have a 1998 play mor travel trailer and guess what the original furnace is still in operation. with zero buildup whatsoever and is also a very efficient heating source. Very pointless DIY in my opinion installing one of these gasoline heaters
Awesome video Tito , I opted for the EVO40/55 gasoline model, supposedly self adjusts the combustion in high elevations with built in air pressure sensor , hope I never have to purge creosote like you did , thank you for the great content and thinking out of the box solutions you provide in your channel !!
I just bought the EVO 40. i live in CO, and will be at 9000-1000 feet from time to time. How is yours working for you at high altitude? Do you have the Evo 40?
🔥GET 5% OFF Webasto and Espar Heaters at HEATSO - Go To rvwithtito.com/heatso and use code RVWITHTITO at checkout
Thank you so much for this video, I was so stressed about my carbon build up, you are amazing and got my mind gears turning!!! What we did....We did not remove the unit, we left it fully installed, unclipped the wire connection inside the metal inlet hose under the vehicle (by pushing in the metal bar on the clip, then pulling.... thank you Webasto for answering the phone to tell me how this clip released), we used two clear approx 3/8" hoses; feed one hose up the exhaust metal tube until it stopped at the heater and one up the other metal tube with the wire inside also until it stopped at the heater, alternated applying compressed air to each hose and tapped the Webasto heater unit GENTLY while applying air with a rubber mallet to shake the carbon loose and keep it moving with the air. Everytime I GENTLY tapped the Webasto, large chucks came out ...tapping it while applying air was a key element to the removing the carbon. IT WORKED...ITS BLOWING HEAT. THANK YOU THANK YOU....THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING THIS KNOWLEDGE WITH THE AIR COMPRESSOR. We tried a small compressor first which didnt work, the large compressor 4' high compressor worked great with enough air to do the job. I am very excited, if you cant tell LOL and thank you again!! Huge Heart EMOJI! The Carbon Removal Team: Karen(Daughter/Van Owner), John(Dad) and Gary(Neighbor)
That's awesome! You're welcome, you're welcome...you're welcome. Glad my experiences helped you out. Who knew watching a cloud of black soot come out of your heater would feel so good :) I like the tapping trick and will have to try that if I every do it again. My heater has been blowing heat ever since I did this. So you should be good to go as long as you keep an eye on your elevation. Right now we're sitting on a beach in Baja so no heat required :) Safe travels!
Appreciate you sharing a LOT of information re these type of heaters.
Bottom line IMO anyways is: A BIG THUMBS DOWN.
Why? Yes it produces good clean heated air but the costs:
1.) Amazon price currently with install kit: $1500 !!!!!
2.) Extensive....Extensive challenge to install properly.
3.) Altitude restriction.
4.) How to repair when a problem occurs?
5.) I could only find the diesel fuel version for the above price. And since my Fleetwood Southwind is gas powered there is a BIG pain in the arse of mounting a small fuel tank and keeping it full......Every few days is what my research shows. That's a problem when you're boon docking for at least a week at a time but more often 14 days. And handling diesel fuel is not fun.
There are probably more downsides but this is MORE THAN ENOUGH for any reasonable person to make a NO/GO decision on.
EDIT: I almost forgot one more BIG DOWNSIDE: If you're not talented enough like RV with Tito here (me) then you have to pay a smarter person to install this contraption and all of it's attributes . So figure $125/hr. X at least 4 hours = $500. So add that to the $1500 product costs and you're up to an astronomical $2000 for something that has definite limitations, no warranty and a pain to remove to fix and reinstall.
To leave on a positive note.......that you VERY MUCH for all the information you share here RV with Tito !!!
We have recently had an Eberspacher diesel air heater fitted to out T5 VW camper here in the U.K. according to the instruction book it will automatically compensate for altitude up to 3000 metres/10,000ft, I will keep an eye on the exhaust for soot build up anyway just in case. Helpful vid 👍🏻🇬🇧
Nice. Webasto also has a larger version that has an altitude adjustment. Not this one though. Either way, I'm sure there's potential for soot build-up in all the units.
Problem Solving and maintenance. My favorite kind of videos.
Woo hoo! Glad you liked it.
Thanks for the test! I have cleaned out a hydronic heater and it was far more involved than what your method was👍
I was totally expecting to have to take the whole thing apart to clean it. Luckily it's been working great ever since.
Thank you, Brian for always going the extra mile for us, soot on the face and all, to make well informed decisions. I've been on the fence about these heaters. I think I'll keep with my LP for now. Especially with the price of fuel, diesel and gas. I'll invest the money in upgrading my Carbon monoxide detectors since mine are really old. Take care! 😁
You're welcome. Definitely replace those detectors regularly even though they look fine. I was on the fence about keeping the LP heater and was waiting until I could thoroughly test the Webasto. Now I know.
Do you think it would have less carbon fouling without the muffler? Less restriction...
Possibly. But it's hard to tell. I blow out the muffler too periodically.
At a very high elevation, a wood stove with hardwood or auto-feed wood pellets that burns hot is the best. Add a stovetop eco fan and a 12v fan on the ceiling to circulate the heat, you will be toasty warm all night. As for your heater. Some of them have a high-altitude kit that makes it usable at high altitudes. I also see some hacks where the van dweller adds a tiny fan(the one similar to nature head fan etc) with adjustable speed to blow more air into the unit via the air intake into the combusting chamber. That adds more air to combusting at higher altitudes. The trick is the adjustable speed with which you have to tinker with. Totally enjoy all the valuable knowledge you shared on your channel. Many thumbs up!
This is great! Thanks for sharing what happened to your unit and how you got it going again. I installed my unit early in the year but didn't hit the road until late spring. I've used it only twice so far but expect to use it a lot as winter comes.
The video with the Webasto tech was extremely interesting: basically, try to run it on high as much as possible to reduce soot accumulation-even to the point of opening a window to make it work harder and thus cleaner. This will also allow the burner to last longer.
The other interesting thing is that the high altitude adjustment is more usable for the gasoline version compared to the diesel version. He also recommended not using it above 4900ft...though many people do so, it just means the carbon builds up more quickly. Running it on high is another way to clean the carbon without using compressed air. Every current or potential owner should watch that video.
I'm still very happy with my decision and now I know how to maintain it.
Yes. I still love the heater and plan to continue using it. I just needed to know first hand what it's limitations were and the Webasto tech's advice was very helpful. I will continue to follow those tips. Thanks for the comment!
I digress, my 1960 Corvair was factory equipped with a gas heater and living in the upper Midwest came in handy winter time…great video…
That's pretty cool. Thanks!
So two things. One if you get a lockout code it’s from too many failed starts. The fix is to pull the fuse wait five seconds then try again. But there’s usually a reason why it’s not starting.
Two. If you want a clean burn, use kerosene. I know that in the diesel units you can burn kerosene and they burn clean no carbon buildup.
and my last comment is to run these units hot. Setting it at low temperature creates more buildup and will foul the heating element.
Is this the gasoline or diesel model? We just used our cheap chinese diesel heater for about a month camped at 14000 ft, making expeditions in the vehicle up to over 19000 ft. Other than the fuel filter breaking in half didnt have any problems. However we are going to go with all gasoline appliances with our next vehicle so we will probably be buying a webasto or eberspacher. Has it given you anymore problems since this cleaning?
It's the gas model and has been working fine since. I've cleaned it out recently again with the compressor but didn't have to remove it to do it. I do have a cheap diesel one in my shop too. Works great once I got all the issues ironed out.
Commenting here on your prior Webasto install video as well as this update. I really, really appreciate the quality of your presentations on this heater and your level of effort to help the viewing community.
We are about to order our 2023 Dodge ProMaster this weekend (hopefully). I’ve been pretty sure I wanted to go with this heater for some time, but the prospect of installing it has kept me quite nervous about the whole thing. A lot of people (van folks) seem to quadruple the complexity via their choice of installation location, especially under the passenger seat. Watching you place yours more toward the rear helped me visualize the process better. I also appreciate your comments about where you got the unit and the issue of where it’s coming from, for US customers. I’m not sure if I will order mine from Amazon or try to find the US distributor? Anyway, thanks very much for your video and all the very valuable information.
If I might ask one question? You said you’ve ran yours all night and much of the day as well… do you have a ballpark Idea on how much petrol you used for say, an 8 hour period (I realize it would be a rough guess)? Thanks again.
Okay, found the info on another of your videos... seems to be about 1 to 1.5 gallons in a 24 hour period. Thanks again.!
The fuel consumption varies depending on the temperature setting. On max, you're probably looking at around 0.4 gallons in an 8 hour period (about 1 to 1.5 gallons in 24 hrs). I removed it from our Class C when we sold it. I now have it installed in our 34 ft Class A motorhome. I have it installed outside the living area in the rear of the coach. I piped the heat into the existing duct system. It doesn't blow hard, but keeps us warm. We love it. Best of luck with your ProMaster.
Thanks so much for your response, and very helpful info. All the best! Thomas
Great information, thanks for sharing. I was planning to use a gas Webasto for my upcoming van conversion, this video makes me pause. The thought of removing it on a yearly basis for cleaning is not appealing. Still didn't do enough research, maybe there are heaters with automatic altitude mixture control.
Glad it was helpful! I know the Webasto EVO 40 automatically adjusts for up to 7200 ft. More $$$ though.
I have the same Russian model, same issue, broke down in Colorado. Any idea how to donthr Altitude adjustment with this Russian screen??? everything online is for the US dial thermostat. Great Vid!
I couldn't figure it out. I think my only option is to upgrade to the larger model which has altitude adjustment.
@@RVwithTito I found out that you have to have the dial reostat in order to do the adjustment. The russian multi control wont work on any american heater but im wondering if the US reostat would work on russian heater
@@powderdawgs My understanding is that the wiring harness on the Russian model is different as well. So it might take some trial and error.
@@RVwithTito thanks, I appreciate you taking the time 👍
You do a very good job 👍 I watched your earlier video and said this is the way to go !! I then bid on a used unit only then to find the issue with high altitude.. I'm at 9300 now I'm trying to retract my bid... This could have been a great solution!! Thanks
I have a 100 series Aqua Hot in my motorhome and they do say not to short cycle the unit. (let it shut down on it's own before shutting it off) I would remove the muffler to help it increase air flow. My AH does not have one and is quite.
Hi Brian , I have the chinesse knockoff , I have a friend that his soots up all the time ,,Me NO as i always run the sucker at full heat it burns the carbon off ,, At least 2 hours full heat and it will clean (Burn) the carbon off ,,, we have used ours at the snowy we have never had a drama at all
Rob
NSW
Australia
Thanks for the info. Same here, when I run it below 5K ft elevation, it runs like a champ.
Good Morning, do I understand you to say you have a gasoline fired Webasto knock off? I love Brian's work and am seriously considering switching from our LPG furnace. BUT I can't see spending $1,500 to replace an appliance I already have that works. I considered mounting a two or three gallon tank and installing a diesel fired knock off but then I'm carrying around an additional type of fuel. And how much diesel fuel do I want to keep available and where. Except for the Webasto unit in Brian's excellent video I haven't seen a gasoline fired air heater. Please let me know about it if you do have a gasoline fired knock off.
Thanks and best regards!
Basically blew out the heat exchanger. Great idea 🕺
It's been working great ever since...as long as I don't run it at high altitude.
Thx Tito for an informative and entertaining video. Happy Camping
Glad you enjoyed it. Back atchya!
Thanks for the update, you have been a wealth of information on this subject.
You're welcome. Glad to help
Very helpful. Thank you for making this video.
You're welcome. The heater is now installed in our class A and doing great. I haven't been back up above 7K elevation since this.
What about the length of the exhaust plus the muffler causing the build up?
THIS IS WHY WE ALL NEED TO HAVE TWO
I am not sure on the webasto but the cheap chinesse ones you can adjust the fuel delivery settings to compensate for the altitude and such and they will work fine at really high altitudes if adjusted and there are plenty of known settings for them for various altitudes.
Yes. I've seen that. I don't think they make any for gas/petrol. Do they?
@@RVwithTito I am pretty sure they do
Good repair, at 10,000 ft compared to sea level, atm. pressure drop by 68% (14.7psi to 10.1) and air density drops by 73% (23.8 lb/ft3 to 17.6), to keep the ideal air/fuel ratio, try to reduce the fuel by 50% and use a booster pump to increase airflow. Since you have a full shop, it is worth a try. I'm certainly Webssto know that but they do not care enough to fix it.
Thanks! I always learn so much from your videos!
My pleasure!
My mother-in-law has this exact one. I just tore it apart yesterday because it wasn't working, same code as yours. There was SO much carbon build up in the unit that every fin was clogged up in the combustion chamber. She has been traveling at no more than 4000ft and always runs it high for 10min after each use, and all of the other rules to follow etc. The exhaust, once removed, was so clogged that when I sprayed high pressure non-chlorinated brake cleaner through it, it wouldn't even come out of the bottom. I'm my opinion, I'd never recommend this unit to anyone. It's not something an older woman that's been in sales her whole life would be able to tackle. The builder of her RV basically said that most people learn to take care of their own problems and not take it for service all the time. (Translation- I put in expensive junk, leave me alone now because I've been paid in full.) This is the second time that her heater has had to be fully disassembled to have carbon buildup removed. The little bit you got out of yours was nothing compared to what I cleaned out of her heater.
Interesting. How long had it been in service before these issues: months, years ? Gas or diesel ?
@@raphofthehills4405 gas version. She only had the build for 5 months or so and only needed to run the heater so often in the time frame. She's a tad over a year now and had to have it rebuilt twice.
@@raphofthehills4405 she had her propane and oven/stove removed for more storage, her build design is pretty terrible in my opinion. Had she still kept her propane, I would've swapped out her furnace for a small Suburban. Now she has a huge toolbox for storage, bike rack, and gas cans on the rear so I have nowhere to mount external propane tanks if she wanted to change over.
If I was building my own, I'd have a propane Suburban or something similar. They might not last forever either but they sure are easy to work on or swap out. I told her to always try and find a place to plug in and run electric. The only way her Webasto will last is if she only uses it for emergencies.
Hehehe WAY too much work. You the MAN.
Glad to take one for the team :)
Second day parked at 9000 ft with my webasto 2000stc. Heat just randomly shut off. Checked the exhaust pipe and there was tons of soot. :( Guess I'm going to have a old night and hopefully be able to clean it tomorrow
Ooh. Second time, just like mine. Now you know what to do. Good luck.
@@RVwithTito I ended up taking mine apart and the process wasn't that bad. I couldn't believe how much buildup there was on the burner and in the actual aluminum case. I ran my heater on low (no altitude adjustment) the first night. Pretty sure that's what did it haha, but it's much cleaner now and I'm going to do the altitude adjustment as soon as I find a wire to ground the diagnostic cable.
Kerosene won’t work at high altitudes either. We live at 6100’ and starting charcoal is even harder to do.
Thank for all your info and tips, have been considering a Webasto
I wonder if a reset would allow a hot burn to clean out the heater below 4900 feet. Hate to pull out the compressor unless I have to. Thanks for the video!
Good morning Brian and everybody! I took a brief respite over the summer from working on this Minnie Winnie due in part for a 10-day vacation in the Keys in July and just the heat in general for summertime however I am back working on the motorhome. I still have the passenger-side filon from side door on back completely removed and cleaned up. I am starting to sand down what's left of the luon on the motorhome that I could not remove with my Razor scraper. I think I'm still ahead of the game since I purchased this for 4 grand.
I cashed out some Civic Crypto that tripled in price last night and will use that money to pay for my new steps which I just ordered, a lot of the money I am spending is coming from my crypto portfolio which is all house money!
Have a great weekend
Awesome way to pay for the mods. Good luck with the projects!
could you use a compressor to blow out the soot once in a while at altitude? assuming you could power a compressor while boondocking
I'm sure you could. If you could easily remove the intake and exhaust from outside, then you wouldn't have to remove the entire unit. I hoped to try that on mine, but it was too difficult to access while installed.
Good video. I carry a small compressor with me. Could you blow the soot out the exhaust on the road without having to pull the unit? Must be a way to devise a blowout connection near the intake while boondocking of course. Not in a park. Lol how difficult is it to remove? Thinking about getting one for my a class. I guess you could use propane heat at higher elevations.
If you mount it in a more accessible location, then it's easier to remove. Mine was in a pretty tight spot. It's recommended that you replace the floor gasket when you reinstall though. I'm sure you could attempt to blow it out on the road as long as you have some decent pressure in your compressor. Yup. I left a couple ducts on the LP heater just in case, good thing.
It sounds like it doesn't have an automatic mixture control and above 3000' MSL generally speaking, it needs to have the mixture adjusted to the density altitude range you're in. Gasloline needs a 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio, and as the air thins from altitude together with temperature/humidity, it will burn too rich at the sea level/MSL setting and leave a lot of carbon fouling as well as wasting fuel, or just not ignite as you have experienced. Reciprocating airplane engines are a good example of this, and if if you can adjust the fuel mixture and monitor the temperature, the general proceedure is to lean the fuel mixture until the running temperature peaks, which is where the combustion is most efficient, and then richen it slightly. Airplane engines use fuel for cooling, so they are normally leaned 25 deg rich of peak, but since this is a heater, the manufacturer has probably determined the best fuel/air ration for it's longevity. I would guess that if it's adjustable, you can work out a chart based on density altitude for it and do adjustments periodically as needed. Temperature/humidity have a great impact on density altitude, where the air density is equivalent to a higher altitude at standard temp and pressure, aka the normal adiabiatic lapse rate -- for example, a cold morning at 7,000' can elevate to a density altitude of 10,000' by late morning as the sun warms the area up into the 80's and 90's.
This is so discouraging. I go from about 900 feet, not much above sea level to high in the Colorado mountains at 8K to 10 or 11K. Not sure what kind of heater to get. If that's what the heater sounds like running strong , oh dear. What kind of LP heater do you have? I don't want something that puts a lot of condensation in the air. I have a 136" wheel base HighRoof 2014 Gas Promaster, so not a large space to heat. I can't quite imagine running something full blast without the windows and doors open. Or is there a small one?
You mentioned that you would use your LP heater above certain elevations. Is there not an elevation restriction with all gas fired heaters furnaces, hot water, etc.? I thought I saw something like 2000 feet.
I don't know. I've used ours without issue up to 10K ft.
I'm researching diesel air heaters for my 25 foot travel trailer and have read that they put out a lot of heat. I've also read, as you mentioned, that they need to run on high periodically to clean out the chamber. I've noticed on several of the TH-cam channels that most people install a 5kw unit and run it on low most of the time to reduce the noise. I'm thinking I will install a 2kw unit and run it on high much of the time. I'm assuming your 2000 is a 2kw unit. Does it put out enough heat to heat your Class A? If it does, I'm sure a 2kw unit would heat my trailer.
I definitely could heat up the class A. I plan to install this one in the Class A and use it this winter. I've found the biggest source of air noise is the size of the register. Lots of air going through a small hole with diverters. If you adapt the output to a 3" or larger register/opening, then is gets quieter.
@@RVwithTito Can you use carb cleaner or something similar to remove the soot?
@@MyMiniTravels Yes you can.
Just a quick thought or suggestion. Would a long handled bottle brush have helped inside along with the air blasts?
Have peeked some concern about our Alde hydronic system at high altitude. Works as a radiant heater instead of forced air.
Another good video Brian. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
This sounds extremely stupid, but maybe so, maybe not. I keep thinking that if you got the thing an oxygen concentrator or a CPAP, then you could give it extra oxygen, just like you would yourself, if you need it at higher altitudes. You could take turns with the heater for the supplemental oxygen treatment!
I know: sounds stupid. But I'm not sure. I keep thinking about it. In a way, it seems like it could be a simple solution that might work well, when or if you need it, and also be useful for other things.
Tito what monitor do you have to see what each appliance is using? I saw it in the other video.
It's the PICO monitoring system from Simarine - th-cam.com/video/zEycLvO1-es/w-d-xo.html
I have the same Russian version. My plan was to just carry a second burner and carb cleaner. But now I might try my on board air compressor with carb cleaner down the intake every morning at high altitude. What do you think ?
Worth a try. My guess is that you won't get it all out, but maybe enough. I still plan to take it apart and do a full clean at some point. But it's working well now.
Separate fuel source with higher octane?
Could you have left it installed and blew it out that way?
Not with my installation...too hard to get to. I'd end up looking like a chimney sweep.
Nice review, I do have a question, not sure if you would know the answer, would a diesel heater be able to run at the higher altitudes?
Perhaps. All I know is that the diesel models are less likely to carbon up as much.
@@RVwithTito The elevation rating is assigned to the heater model, fuel type does not matter, the BTU rating is the same.
I have used the heater a bit during the summer but have had trouble that it would run two hours and shut off. Not sure if I’m doing something wrong. Have you had that problem on your heater.
How long had it been since you cleaned it or installed? I recently watched van city and he cleaned his at 2 yrs and it was pretty clean yet but he did mention he runs his full bore most of the time. Guess next time youll use a shop vac, LOL! Informative vid as all of yours seem to be. Currious why you didnt do a thorough clean as you allready had it out and had the parts.
I haven't cleaned it since. It's currently installed in our Class A motorhome and works fine. I do run it on full blast more often than before to keep it cleaned out.
Is the fuel cost cheaper vs the LP?
So, what about the altitude causes the problem? Would a "turbocharger help?
Hey Phil. I don't have a good answer. Hope Mr. Stanky's answer helps :)
Does the condition of the muffler (carbon build-up) influence codes / inhibit use?
At some point probably. It will definitely affect the efficiency of the heater.
@@RVwithTito If you get a diesel for your shop, it would make a great video comparing fuel consumption and cleanliness/codes.
@@tim1299 I have a diesel in the shop now. One of the cheapo all in one units. It's working fine now but what junk. Bad design. It didn't even work when I got it because the fan wouldn't even spin. Took it apart and modified some pieces to get it working...then it leaked diesel everywhere. I'm warm now and it was cheap in all respects.
@@RVwithTito Sorry to hear that. My 1976 Honey class C I have owned since 1996 is not quite worth the gas version and not in my budget . Others I have followed do seem to have better success. I would rather not have two types of fuel on board, but at gas prices at record highs , and being in Ohio , getting to the west coast , isn't in my budget either. And this RV could go everywhere - sweetest 350 hp
with 68,000 miles. thanks . Enjoy your channel !
Interesting video as usual. I live in the southeast and don't need one of those heaters but your video was very fun to watch. But, all I could think of when you were blowing out that soot in the shop was, glad your wife didn't see you. My wife would have shot me. Oh geez, when did I lose my man license. Oh yeah, when I replaced it with a marriage license. Okay now. Don't a whole bunch of you get mad at me. It's just a joke. I'm married 48 years and wouldn't change a thing. Anyway, another great video. Thanks!
Man license...too funny. 48 yrs is pretty amazing. 32 years for us and she knows any mess I make I have to clean up :) Great comment. Thanks!
Does a propane one also gets carbon build up
I don't think so. It burns cleaner.
I just got to Colorado at 6000 ft and it ran for 4 hours then a light smell started and I got your same error codes. I've been at sea level all winter so far. Not sure what to do here, how could carbon build up in 4 hours...
I'd recommend running the system on max for a few hours next time before heading up to 6K.
@@RVwithTito I'm in Denver still, took it apart from the bottom and blew it out with canned air. Lots of black came out. I'm thinking to not even try to turn it on until getting below 4900 ft.
@@winterfern4881 Once you can get it to fire up then turn it to max and let it run for a few hours.
Great review thanks
Thanks for watching!
Im in Colorado at 5280ish. Should I steer clear of Webastos?
It may work for a bit, but you'll probably be cleaning it a lot. If you run it hot frequently, it will help. I've used it up to 5500ft in Utah and Colorado without issue. When I tried it at 7500 and 10000 in Colorado, it eventually stopped working. Then I made this video :) The diesel version may work better at elevation than the gas one that I have.
I thought you had taken the LP heater out. I put in a diesel heater but left my LP in so I would have the option. Sounds like a good idea for higher elevations. Thanks for testing.
Nope. I left it in until I was able to fully test the Webasto. Good thing. I''m not using all of the registers (just two) but it's enough to heat the RV.
Volvo truck dealers sell webasto bunker heater and they fixed too, my work well no problem
Hi, what do you use to power the webasto heater?
Any 12V source.
Very Cool! 😎
Thanks!
So for a cool project you could add a pressurized blower to the system with a variable speed drive so that you could increase the air density mix based on the altitude, at 6,000 ft you have 20% less oxygen available, the other suggestion which would be less cool but probably easier to implement is leaning it out ... maybe pwm the injector ... negative is less heat out of it
I wonder if the diesel version has the same altitude limitation
Both diesel and gas have the same rating.
@@RVwithTito The Webasto Air Top Evo version compensates for altitude up to 7200 feet. Higher heating capacities also
Had to laugh you talked about gas heater, being in europe I assumed LPG. Then you talk about no propane... Dumb me.
Was looking at heaters for boats. Webasto rep said something very similar. Oversizing the heater causes it to cycle on/off frequently, never gets hot enough to self clean...
Not sure if I'd get a clone, although they seem to be getting good feedback. Gas (LPG) leaks scare me.
Guess the answer is regular servicing.
I am going to try to clean my webasto , but my issue is the unit runs for a minute and then shuts off and only the fan runs at a high speed.
Good luck. In my experience the problem is either carbon build up or fuel flow.
Hi, found it here.. pb
I have a China diesel heater in my class C that I full time in here in the North East. It was $115, will be going into my 3rd winter. Adding a second one for the bedroom area. So def get one for your shop. They actually have minimal issues and are very easy and inexpensive to repair. Plenty of vids out there.
Thanks for elevation info. 👍
Yes. I'm familiar. I think I will. I'm tired of using LP in the shop to keep warm. A 5L diesel tank is no biggie. Have already thought of how/where I'd hook one up :)
How much fuel it burn out like in 10 hours
@@anigallegos83 Roughly .5 gallon.
@@RVwithTito sounds about right. I set it at 20-25 deg Celsius and it's 24/7. Uses about a gal a day. I use a 5gal. Jerry can for a fuel tank. Fill it every 4-5 days
Should clean gloplug and it will work again for ever and run it on hy for about an hour
probably true. I haven't done it yet, but I've been running it non-stop with no issue.
Great ‘pro tip’ ! Lol.
Darn! I was really hoping to use a Webesto heater to get off of propane while wintering in Breckenridge. I guess I'm stuck kneeling at the altar of AmeriGas.
Enjoy the condensation, mold and possibly wood rot.
Glad the heater only needed cleaning.
I'm really glad that burner fired up. Whew!
is it worth it?
Hmmm. I suppose that depends on where you live/camp. It's probably not worth it if you live at high elevation without some kind of elevation adjustment (or different model). At lower elevations (below 5000ft) it has worked flawlessly as long as you use it regularly.
@@RVwithTito Live in Salt Lake, camp from 9k down to 3k St. George. Don't sound like it's for me. Thanks
@@RVwithTito What model do you reccomend that doesn't have this issue?
SO we have no heat at 6,000 feet??? mmmm, sounds COLD to me.
That's some really good to know information. I still am kind of Leary of using gasoline 🙄 but I guess it's OK I wonder how elevation affects the diesel heater?? I think this is one time where you should have worn a mask.😷
The heater is very safe. The intake and exhaust are all on the outside. The gas supposedly produces more soot than the diesel.
I would think you’re not getting enough air intake so it’s burning rich, you need a turbo on it 😂😂 or someway of increasing more air.
I've heard of someone pointing a heat gun into the intake to get it started.
I bought one of the cheap knockoff brands. Hope it works.
That is a JOKE that you can't use a HEATER above 4,900 feet. I LIVE AT 4,500 now.. FAIL on their part! ! !
HELLO, it gets COLD up here in Tahoe at 7,000 PLUS feet! ! !
Great Video! _Do Not buy This Unit!_ used it two nights at 8-9000 feet. It Now Does not work. It's almost brand new. Cost me nearly $2000. Completely unacceptable that Webasto does not allow for it to be leaned out for altitude. Crappy engineering.
All that carbon buildup is why I stick with my LPG furnace I have a 1998 play mor travel trailer and guess what the original furnace is still in operation. with zero buildup whatsoever and is also a very efficient heating source. Very pointless DIY in my opinion installing one of these gasoline heaters
Awesome video Tito , I opted for the EVO40/55 gasoline model, supposedly self adjusts the combustion in high elevations with built in air pressure sensor , hope I never have to purge creosote like you did , thank you for the great content and thinking out of the box solutions you provide in your channel !!
I just bought the EVO 40. i live in CO, and will be at 9000-1000 feet from time to time. How is yours working for you at high altitude? Do you have the Evo 40?
@@Jaws-3 That's awesome , I haven't had the chance to test it that high yet as I'm in NY area but hopefully soon.