Expose Snow Like a Pro! | Fix Dull Winter Photos in Minutes ❄️
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- Capture the breathtaking beauty of winter landscapes without the dull, washed-out look! This video dives deep into the secrets of nailing exposure in snow photography, using two powerful tools: exposure compensation in-camera and AI-powered masks in Lightroom.
0:00 Introduction
0:34 Why camera's get confused by snow
2:36 Correcting exposure in Adobe Lightroom
5:42 Using Exposure Compensation in-camera
7:16 Summary and outro
No more muddy greys or blown-out highlights! Learn how to:
❄️ Unlock the magic of exposure compensation: Understand why snow fools your camera and how to dial in the perfect amount of extra light for dazzling snow.
❄️ Harness the power of AI masks: Discover how Lightroom's AI can automatically select and adjust snow in your photos, saving you time and effort.
❄️ Fine-tune your edits for stunning results: Go beyond the basics and learn pro tips for tweaking contrast, clarity, and color balance to make your snow scenes truly pop.
Don't let winter fool your camera! Watch this video and learn how to capture the sparkling magic of snow in all its glory.
Click here to watch now and unlock the secrets of stunning snowy photography!
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#photography #landscape #tutorial #exposure #photographyskills #winter #snow
Manual mode, adjust, shoot, chimp on rear screen including the histogram &, for landscapes, shoot a plus or minus or two & use what works best. Spray & pray or insurance? Anyway seen a wildlife photo show on tv once it was suggested to over expose by 1 to 2-1/2 stops for the white birds. I use this often also for high key photos. Thanks for the vid & also bobbybob commenting. Sharing is how we, (or at least me) learns & grows the interest of photography.
i only shoot jpeg as the new cameras jpegs save plenty of information so the exposure compensation dial is key. thanks for reminding those folks who would rather be out shooting than editing this quick tip.
Forget the musak…it is too distracting
You can't 'play around with the exposure' if you're shooting raw. Your presentation is marred by confusing two things, 'exposure' and 'lightness'. 'Exposure' means the light energy density at the sensor, often expressed as 'intensity times time' (which you'll find in all decent elementary photographic textbooks). Obviously you can't change that after you've taken the shot. What you're calling 'exposure' is 'lightness', how light or dark the photo looks. The relationship between exposure and lightness for an in-camera processed image (JPEG) is determined by the ISO (by definition of ISO) - for a raw file you control the processing, so it isn't. The metering (at least simple, matrix and evaluative metering should be cleverer) works on the basis that the reflectivity of the scene is 18%. This works if you're metering off an 18% grey object that should be rendered as such in the final scene, but not if you're not. So one way to avoid meter error in snow is find an 18% object and meter off that (that's what spot metering's for), or use EC, as you suggest. That's just for JPEG where you're trying to match exposure to fixed processing, which overall is a bit of a mug's game. In raw, exposure for the highlights (especially in snow where they can get burned out). Use a histogram to set the highlights as far as you can to the right (why it's called 'expose to the right') then set the lightness as you want in processing.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to make such a detailed comment Bobby. You are of course right that I can't change the actual image exposure in post i.e. change the shutter speed, aperture or iso there by altering the amount of light entering the camera over time. However this being a video about making adjustments in Lightroom I have gone with the Adobe term for brightness which is 'exposure'. I have gone into this in previous videos but I'm sure you can appreciate redefining the terms each time can also be confusing for viewers. I will endeavour to include a note for viewers in future videos that I'm actually adjusting brightness (not lightness, we can't adjust the amount of light in post either). Exposing to the right is absolutely sound traditional advice although interestingly most cameras produced in the last five years or so have such good noise tolerance and high dynamic range that it's rarely needed. I'm sure you are aware but for the benefit of others reading - the aim of exposing to the right is that lights are normally less noisy than darks and can therefore be recovered in post, but as I say newer cameras and advancements in post process noise reduction has significantly reduced the pressure on this. Still great practice for anything older though. One major exception can, funnily enough, be snow where it is incredibly easy to blow out the highlights in sunny conditions if going by the histogram. In these circumstance if the detail in the snow is to be retained exposing to the left can actually be more helpful. Thanks again for your thoughts. All the best, Christopher
@@wildernessphotographic I think when you're explaining things it's important to be clear in your terminology, especially when talking about something as fundamental as exposure. Once you start presenting as a teacher you need to be more careful than would the everyday photographer. As for your comment about 'lightness', sorry, you got that exactly the wrong way round. 'Lightness' is the technical word for how light or dark something looks, and I used it correctly. 'Brightness' is a colloquial word for how much light comes from something.
Again, many photographers get these wrong, but if you're teaching you need to get it right. I'd suggest a quick brush-up to familiarise yourself with basic photographic theory - not so that you can fill your videos with it, but just to avoid making mistakes which lead to others mislearning.