Stressful time I’m sure with all the mixing and fitting while working against the clock. Did you rehearse the procedure in your minds a few times and plot the mixing and curing times etc. to get it just right? Looked like great team work. Another fascinating video. Thanks!
Great video guys!! How lucky is Joe to work along side a master, takes me back to when I was working with peter gallant at gallant custom yachts, he taught me a lot and I'm still working the wood 40 years later.
Joe looks like he's trying real hard not to laugh. What were you doing telling him jokes before the video started? LOL Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Good for you for doing the experiment here. I'm yet to be convinced that putting the fabric in the middle (neutral axis) will provide the best reinforcement, and I suspect an S-glass would do the job as well or better than carbon, but if you are going to go ahead and try something innovative, you might as well pull out all the stops. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
I think the FRP in the middle is actually clever, because it provides tensile strength without the stiffness of a sandwich lamination. I'm sure Carbon fiber will be just fine, but my first thought was Kevlar, since it is more flexible. But then I remembered that S glass is a pretty close match to Kevlar, although lacking the abrasion resistance. It's been awhile since I read up on composites...
I'm just concerned that since the fabric is situated where it will not contribute stiffness and the outside surfaces of the cedar are still exposed to wet/dry cycles, that it will just do weird, unanticipated things. The cedar will still want to move, but with CF there, the middle will not be allowed expand/contract with it. I could see the it tearing itself apart. It just seems that with a dimensionally stable, impermeable vapor barrier buried in the cedar that something has got to give. I expect Lou has thought about it. I'm sure Jamestown Distributors was happy to supply Lou with the small amount of CF required to do this job, but I doubt it is worth the cost in this application, where the stiffness potential provided by CF doesn't really come into play. Regular E-glass would probably accomplish the same thing at 10% the cost. 6oz carbon weighs just as much as 6oz glass and absorbs a lot more resin, so there is no weight advantage. But again, you don't learn stuff without trying new ideas. It will be interesting to see how it works out. The only way to prove it works is to give it a try.
Stress = MC/I, M = moment (lb in) C= the distance from the neutral axis to the outer most fiber (dim) I = moment of inertia = (b x h^3)/12. Anything added near the neutral axis is in-effective. The added stiffness goes with the cube of the distance from the neutral axis.
I think you guys talking about the "axis of stiffness" are kinda missing the whole point of why he's even putting this cloth in there. He's not trying to achieve "stiffness" in the engineered sandwich/lamination sense of that term. All he's doing, is adding this as an alternate connection "member" across the chine. ("Chine" = boatbuilder's term for the longitudinal corner angles in any boat shaped of flat plank or panel sections, as opposed to boats with fully "round-bottomed" cross-sections. Round-bottom boats of course have a bit better hydrodynamic shape... but flat-panel sections are less labor-intensive.) Y'all perhaps don't know about traditional dory construction. But like the several other flat-bottom (or flat-segmented-sections) boat types... any dory built of either solid wood planks OR plywood, either way, normally has to have a "chine log" inside the interior of that corner joint. It's a full-length "stringer" (longitudinal) type of piece that normally has to be massive enough to take a continuous row of fasteners down the whole length of the bottom, AND fasteners on the whole bottom edge of the first side plank (called the "Garboard"). Not to mention the whole-hull lateral "prying" stress at that joint, the inevitable source of eventual leaks. So a dory this size, the chine log might be 1.75" or 2" high, and 1.25" - 1.5" wide in (trapezoidal) cross-section. Work-boats destined for hard use would need that piece to be even heavier in dimension. Perhaps Doug.Fir in a pleasure row-boat, likely White Oak in a work-boat. That structurally-vital "Chine Log", which he has TOTALLY OMITTED FROM THIS DESIGN... is what this Carbon Fiber cloth is meant to replace. He's not trying to "stiffen" a panel across the middle of its width. He's using the cloth to "fasten" two SEPARATE panels together at their EDGES. Totally different engineering problem.
That is my point. Since the fabric isn't located where it will add stiffness, there is not much point in making that fabric CF. A layer of CF isn't more durable than other options the way its being used. Use S-Glass or Kevlar, save some money and make it tougher. If you are trying to improve a cheap and easy way to make a boat, there is no point in adding expense unless it will do the job better. But, of course the fabric isn't particularly well situated to replace the chine log along the garboard/bottom-board seam either. There will now be a compression load on the interior cedar as well as loads trying to split the exterior cedar with the CF as a fulcrum. One layer of epoxy soaked fabric will not fill the same role as a chunky fir chine log. Water won't get through that seam right away, but it might tear the bottom apart first. I've built a lot of (glass-Kevlar-CF)/epoxy reinforced wooden boats and use them regularly, and Lou is going against standard practice (as he likes to do) for that kind of construction. Good for him for taking the risk and seeing how it works out. Success is not guaranteed.
I think what you have done here is awesome. I'm not sure if most here in the chat will be able to appreciate what you are trying to accomplish with this layup. I guess you need to have repaired a lot of old wooden boats over the years and seen the same damage over and over to really understand. This boat will last a very long time indeed. Nice job. Good hustle in the layup too.
Just be careful if you ever sand that Carbon Lou. and would be a good idea if you wear a filtration mask if you do so.. Seem to remember a bloke called John Britten who built a race bike that won at Daytona he died of some form of cancer. Rumour at the the time was that it was due to him constantly being covered in the dust from where he was sanding his bikes down.. (They were of carbon construction..)
Hi Louis, love the show. There's a trick with composite. (I work with it on aircraft). It's called pre impregnation. You can apply it to any composite work, not just aircraft. Also you can buy frozen pre preg layers. But anyway, if you get two sheets of clear plastic and sandwich the cloth. Then lift the top layer and pour on your resin. Then lay the plastic on again and squeegee it. Now you have a completely wetted pre impregnated cloth. This is very useable because it doesn't stick to anything until you remove the bottom plastic. In the meantime you can measure, Mark to size and cut it exactly to what you need. If you are really organized you can mark the top plastic before making the resin. Hope this helps.
For the Q&A session: Hi Lou - I have watched every single video (I think) and without a shadow of doubt the most entertaining, informative and successful episodes were back in the day when you were restoring and repairing real boats like the Herreshoff. It allowed you to demonstrate skills, tricks and experiences that will, for sure, be lost if we are not careful. This new boat build in what looks like quite a sterile environment, with new squeaky clean lumber, plastic and carbon fibre sort of fill a gap but the passion and the sawdust is missing. Any chance of getting back to a classic wooden boat challenge sometime soon, preferably in a cluttered workshop with ongoing projects in the background? Really Lou - they were the days!
Looks good just a tip if you apply painters tape along where your cutting the carbon fiber it prevents the carbon fiber from fraying at the ends along the cut point, love the videos, keep up the good work.
I wasn't sure where to post the questions for your next Q & A session, so hear goes. I built a 23 foot cape ann sailing dory back in 2001 out of cypress and juniper. Over the years I have been using captains varnish inside and out. I'm taking it down to the bare wood again and am thinking about using something like the west system 105/207 for 2 or 3 coats then 2 or 3 coats of captains varnish. My question is... Should I be worried about the planks or joints flexing and causing the epoxy to separate from the wood surface? Thanks, Dale Shepard Orange Beach, AL
I know you are an ambassador for total boats. Did you think to yourself.... how can I show off as many products in one go? And then thought.... I know, I will glue down 1,000 sheets on the bottom. That ought to do it ...... P.S. love the videos
Dear Mr Sauzedde : I respect your knowledge , experience , expertise , meticulousness and candor. You must remember this , carbon fiber and epoxy are primarily utilized for vacuum infusion moulding with an autoclave , there is nothing wrong with your application of carbon fiber other than it's like trying the build a rat with a gold tooth . I do hope ultimately you're going to glass the bottom of your dory with a layer 0f 900 gsm (grams per square meter) of quadraxial "E" glass and epoxy, this stuff is so abrasion resilient , you'll be able to tow your dory behind your car without a trailer , not really but you get the picture. An otherwise great show from a great man ,legend , legend , legend. Although I'm older than you and now retired I did my time with triple diagonal cold moulding racing yachts and power boats then onto the disgusting/disgraceful era of fiberglass (i.e.plastic) chopper gun production boats getting punched out like boiled lollies then on to the modern composite foam cored yachts with all their problems of osmosis and delamination etc. etc. ... ho hum , a boat builders life is never ever a happy one . Cheers Lou , look forward to your completion of this absorbing project.
Bom dia. Gosto muito de ver seu trabalho ,pois,sou pescador brasileiro,rio de janeiro.construo meus proprios barcos.e, gostari que seus videos fossem dubrados ou legendados.não entendo muito o ingles.me ajuda com videos dubrados ou legendados. Grato. Amigo.BRASIIIIIIIIL
Afternoon Louis, excellent video and series as always! Please could you direct me to the video where you explain how you ‘tune up’ an electric plane? Watched it several months ago and can’t find it now. Or, maybe if you had time, or wanted suggestions for a video post, do your keen viewers an ‘electric plane special’. I watch you using yours so expertly and feel my own (Dewalt) deserves to be utilised more frequently. I currently find an electric plane of limited use, prone to ruining hard work and cause more issues than it ever generally solves. Many thanks in advance, and all the very best! Alastair.
As an Old boat Builder myself my advice is for Joe no Money can buy Lou, knowledge so suck it Up you lucky young Man. Now a question for Lou lets have some info: on Joe, He seems such a nice young man your so lucky to have found him.
It seems like the second layer of planking should have been staggered so the seams wouldn't line up. Is the glue so strong that this isn't a concern? I like the mix of old school and new innovation.
I'm glad to see another video in this series. The videos have been much slower in coming out that on your previous series. Any chance you will get back to weekly releases?
That first boat you are you design a new build was really enjoyment just want to just a glue and my lack like a model model of toys that bullshit too much sugar low by
When using a notched trowel, make sure the groves are all the same direction once you've spread it out. Quite easy to trap air in your lay up if there not.
Was all respect it's too much work on people do you want to boat and go in the water what you been doing under and under in between and just to bullshit you don't need that crap
Will this dory have a outboard motor well mounted in it much like some Glen L dory designs or will it only be sail/oar powered? Keep up the great work I love the series so far. Also are you going to this year's WoodenBoat show in Mystic CT? I will be displaying my 12ft sailing skiff that I've been restoring and I'd love for you to check it out.
Lou, thank you for your videos. I hope your health is well, and I would want it before any videos you make. We're here to see your work, and I want to see more of it. I don't want to impose on your workshop "thou shalts." You ought to protect yourself from inhaling dust to start. While it's not the time for me to start building a boat, you're an inspiration.
Can you tail why and how they put a bronze ring around early 18 century sail ship mast head?. I found one after a hurricane buried in the sand had octagon shape with a bronze ring like 16 inches wide. Thank you Enjoyed every video!.
Hi, good job and pleasure to watch. I have noticed you are in possession of several block planes and they seem to be very handy in day to day operation. I'd love to hear your opinion on different models, which one you like the most and how do you set them up for specific kind of tasks. Take care :)
Lou, love your work and enthusiasm! You make me want to start building a boat right now! That being said, I want to be ambitious and build a nice big fishing boat with a variable degree hull. Can you go into a little more detail how you lift the bevles from station to station from the drawings? Thank you & I look forward to seeing your next video.
Hey Lou, thanks so much for sharing your craftsmanship with us. Your passion and connection with your audience is amazing and contagious. I wait for each video as an event not to be missed. You have inspired me to see my old power planer in a new light and it is a tool I have fallen in love with all over again. I hope to visit your shop on my next trip to the USA. Best regards!!
Hi Lou, that's a good idea to use carbon fiber. It's stronger than fiberglass and much more lighter. Nice to see you collaborating with next generation.
Great video. I always love watching your videos. I'm curious what the difference in strength and weight is of the carbon fiber versus fiberglass cloth? Maybe you can comment on that in your upcoming question and answer video.
Love all the videos Lou. Started watching five years ago. How do you envision this boat being used? Do you have a preference on how you utilize a sport dory?
Awesome video! Love this build. Learning so I can build my first boat. Have used James Town products for years to restore historical buildings and their wood components.
Lou, this is a top five video, for sure. I’m working my little stitch and glue fishing boat for my grandson, and the masterclass on working the epoxy and the carbon fiber will really help me get on with the taping and glassing I need to do. And great tip on the wedged cauls to help with the clamping.
Fantastic! Yet another great video! I love the idea of using the carbon fibre, especially as it is hidden and so doesn't detract from the wood. Superb work, as always, Lou!
Louis, is there a easy way to estimate how much epoxy you will need at a given time? And what do you consider when using different weights of fiberglass cloth? Love your show, and you have taught me a lot, ; thanks Louis
Another great video thank you . Can you please tell us how long you give yourself to work with the epoxy before it starts hardening and you manage that if you need more time when fitting ? And how do you manage the puckering of the wetted cloth to comply and keeps even to the rest of your build? Thanks again Louis and I hope Joe is asking more questions than us with the great opportunity he has with you.
It has been raining here for two full days so Ep 18 made my Friday when I found it on my phone this morning. It is looking great just so accurate and neat.
I love your channel and your builds however I do have concerns about the way you are sandwiching the carbon here. The wood will swell and contract while that carbon will not. Just not sure how that will work out over time. Looking forward to the next video regardless.
Never underestimate the power of wood expanding and contracting. It is a powerful force. The carbon fiber doesn't expand and contract the same way. Something will have to give or split.
It could actually work the opposite way expected since the wood joints will flex, swell and contract repeatedly over time while the carbon won't. The carbon resisting the wood's natural expansion and contraction could actually cause problems over time.
Great vid as usual Lou. The carbon fibre will make that bottom very strong without add a lot of weight. Do you have any idea of the total weight when finished.
Really like the carbon in there, not only will it stiffen the boat and those seams nicely, but it will help prevent checking and cracking of those flat boards longer term.
Couple of questions for you Q&A: If someone were to build this (or something similar) what would the rough cost be? Maybe you can do a video talking about the cost of each stage? Start to finish, about how many hours will a project like this take? What kinds of conditions will this boat be best in? Light seas, flat calm, heavy beaching, etc. Thanks, having a great time watching this project.
![ได้เวลา! พาน้องแฝดฉีดวัคซีนครบ 1 เดือน🫣 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.52 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IzeLtaXBLNE/mqdefault.jpg)
Stressful time I’m sure with all the mixing and fitting while working against the clock. Did you rehearse the procedure in your minds a few times and plot the mixing and curing times etc. to get it just right? Looked like great team work. Another fascinating video. Thanks!
Great video guys!! How lucky is Joe to work along side a master, takes me back to when I was working with peter gallant at gallant custom yachts, he taught me a lot and I'm still working the wood 40 years later.
Joe looks like he's trying real hard not to laugh. What were you doing telling him jokes before the video started? LOL
Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
I love to watch an craftsman using old and new technology! Great job you two!
Good for you for doing the experiment here. I'm yet to be convinced that putting the fabric in the middle (neutral axis) will provide the best reinforcement, and I suspect an S-glass would do the job as well or better than carbon, but if you are going to go ahead and try something innovative, you might as well pull out all the stops.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
I think the FRP in the middle is actually clever, because it provides tensile strength without the stiffness of a sandwich lamination. I'm sure Carbon fiber will be just fine, but my first thought was Kevlar, since it is more flexible. But then I remembered that S glass is a pretty close match to Kevlar, although lacking the abrasion resistance. It's been awhile since I read up on composites...
I'm just concerned that since the fabric is situated where it will not contribute stiffness and the outside surfaces of the cedar are still exposed to wet/dry cycles, that it will just do weird, unanticipated things. The cedar will still want to move, but with CF there, the middle will not be allowed expand/contract with it.
I could see the it tearing itself apart. It just seems that with a dimensionally stable, impermeable vapor barrier buried in the cedar that something has got to give. I expect Lou has thought about it.
I'm sure Jamestown Distributors was happy to supply Lou with the small amount of CF required to do this job, but I doubt it is worth the cost in this application, where the stiffness potential provided by CF doesn't really come into play. Regular E-glass would probably accomplish the same thing at 10% the cost. 6oz carbon weighs just as much as 6oz glass and absorbs a lot more resin, so there is no weight advantage.
But again, you don't learn stuff without trying new ideas. It will be interesting to see how it works out. The only way to prove it works is to give it a try.
Stress = MC/I, M = moment (lb in) C= the distance from the neutral axis to the outer most fiber (dim) I = moment of inertia = (b x h^3)/12. Anything added near the neutral axis is in-effective. The added stiffness goes with the cube of the distance from the neutral axis.
I think you guys talking about the "axis of stiffness" are kinda missing the whole point of why he's even putting this cloth in there.
He's not trying to achieve "stiffness" in the engineered sandwich/lamination sense of that term. All he's doing, is adding this as an alternate connection "member" across the chine. ("Chine" = boatbuilder's term for the longitudinal corner angles in any boat shaped of flat plank or panel sections, as opposed to boats with fully "round-bottomed" cross-sections. Round-bottom boats of course have a bit better hydrodynamic shape... but flat-panel sections are less labor-intensive.)
Y'all perhaps don't know about traditional dory construction. But like the several other flat-bottom (or flat-segmented-sections) boat types... any dory built of either solid wood planks OR plywood, either way, normally has to have a "chine log" inside the interior of that corner joint. It's a full-length "stringer" (longitudinal) type of piece that normally has to be massive enough to take a continuous row of fasteners down the whole length of the bottom, AND fasteners on the whole bottom edge of the first side plank (called the "Garboard"). Not to mention the whole-hull lateral "prying" stress at that joint, the inevitable source of eventual leaks. So a dory this size, the chine log might be 1.75" or 2" high, and 1.25" - 1.5" wide in (trapezoidal) cross-section. Work-boats destined for hard use would need that piece to be even heavier in dimension. Perhaps Doug.Fir in a pleasure row-boat, likely White Oak in a work-boat.
That structurally-vital "Chine Log", which he has TOTALLY OMITTED FROM THIS DESIGN... is what this Carbon Fiber cloth is meant to replace. He's not trying to "stiffen" a panel across the middle of its width. He's using the cloth to "fasten" two SEPARATE panels together at their EDGES. Totally different engineering problem.
That is my point. Since the fabric isn't located where it will add stiffness, there is not much point in making that fabric CF. A layer of CF isn't more durable than other options the way its being used. Use S-Glass or Kevlar, save some money and make it tougher. If you are trying to improve a cheap and easy way to make a boat, there is no point in adding expense unless it will do the job better.
But, of course the fabric isn't particularly well situated to replace the chine log along the garboard/bottom-board seam either. There will now be a compression load on the interior cedar as well as loads trying to split the exterior cedar with the CF as a fulcrum. One layer of epoxy soaked fabric will not fill the same role as a chunky fir chine log. Water won't get through that seam right away, but it might tear the bottom apart first.
I've built a lot of (glass-Kevlar-CF)/epoxy reinforced wooden boats and use them regularly, and Lou is going against standard practice (as he likes to do) for that kind of construction. Good for him for taking the risk and seeing how it works out. Success is not guaranteed.
I think what you have done here is awesome. I'm not sure if most here in the chat will be able to appreciate what you are trying to accomplish with this layup. I guess you need to have repaired a lot of old wooden boats over the years and seen the same damage over and over to really understand. This boat will last a very long time indeed.
Nice job. Good hustle in the layup too.
Just be careful if you ever sand that Carbon Lou. and would be a good idea if you wear a filtration mask if you do so.. Seem to remember a bloke called John Britten who built a race bike that won at Daytona he died of some form of cancer. Rumour at the the time was that it was due to him constantly being covered in the dust from where he was sanding his bikes down.. (They were of carbon construction..)
That's a lot of parts to glue up all those parts at once.
But they nailed it on the first try. That's why careful planning is the hardest part of the job.
Hi Louis, love the show. There's a trick with composite. (I work with it on aircraft). It's called pre impregnation. You can apply it to any composite work, not just aircraft. Also you can buy frozen pre preg layers. But anyway, if you get two sheets of clear plastic and sandwich the cloth. Then lift the top layer and pour on your resin. Then lay the plastic on again and squeegee it. Now you have a completely wetted pre impregnated cloth. This is very useable because it doesn't stick to anything until you remove the bottom plastic. In the meantime you can measure, Mark to size and cut it exactly to what you need. If you are really organized you can mark the top plastic before making the resin. Hope this helps.
Joe, you're so lucky.
For the Q&A session: Hi Lou - I have watched every single video (I think) and without a shadow of doubt the most entertaining, informative and successful episodes were back in the day when you were restoring and repairing real boats like the Herreshoff. It allowed you to demonstrate skills, tricks and experiences that will, for sure, be lost if we are not careful. This new boat build in what looks like quite a sterile environment, with new squeaky clean lumber, plastic and carbon fibre sort of fill a gap but the passion and the sawdust is missing. Any chance of getting back to a classic wooden boat challenge sometime soon, preferably in a cluttered workshop with ongoing projects in the background? Really Lou - they were the days!
Well laid out and planned, could be quite different results if not.
Looks good just a tip if you apply painters tape along where your cutting the carbon fiber it prevents the carbon fiber from fraying at the ends along the cut point, love the videos, keep up the good work.
Great tip Bill! That's just the sort of thing Louis would do. :)
Cody Persinger just a trick the old boys shown me when we done a mini years back, had to replicate the front end for easier acess to the motor.
I wasn't sure where to post the questions for your next Q & A session, so hear goes. I built a 23 foot cape ann sailing dory back in 2001 out of cypress and juniper. Over the years I have been using captains varnish inside and out. I'm taking it down to the bare wood again and am thinking about using something like the west system 105/207 for 2 or 3 coats then 2 or 3 coats of captains varnish. My question is... Should I be worried about the planks or joints flexing and causing the epoxy to separate from the wood surface?
Thanks,
Dale Shepard
Orange Beach, AL
I know you are an ambassador for total boats. Did you think to yourself.... how can I show off as many products in one go? And then thought.... I know, I will glue down 1,000 sheets on the bottom. That ought to do it ...... P.S. love the videos
Dear Mr Sauzedde : I respect your knowledge , experience , expertise , meticulousness and candor. You must remember this , carbon fiber and epoxy are primarily utilized for vacuum infusion moulding with an autoclave , there is nothing wrong with your application of carbon fiber other than it's like trying the build a rat with a gold tooth . I do hope ultimately you're going to glass the bottom of your dory with a layer 0f 900 gsm (grams per square meter) of quadraxial "E" glass and epoxy, this stuff is so abrasion resilient , you'll be able to tow your dory behind your car without a trailer , not really but you get the picture. An otherwise great show from a great man ,legend , legend , legend. Although I'm older than you and now retired I did my time with triple diagonal cold moulding racing yachts and power boats then onto the disgusting/disgraceful era of fiberglass (i.e.plastic) chopper gun production boats getting punched out like boiled lollies then on to the modern composite foam cored yachts with all their problems of osmosis and delamination etc. etc. ... ho hum , a boat builders life is never ever a happy one . Cheers Lou , look forward to your completion of this absorbing project.
Bom dia. Gosto muito de ver seu trabalho ,pois,sou pescador brasileiro,rio de janeiro.construo meus proprios barcos.e, gostari que seus videos fossem dubrados ou legendados.não entendo muito o ingles.me ajuda com videos dubrados ou legendados.
Grato. Amigo.BRASIIIIIIIIL
Afternoon Louis, excellent video and series as always! Please could you direct me to the video where you explain how you ‘tune up’ an electric plane? Watched it several months ago and can’t find it now. Or, maybe if you had time, or wanted suggestions for a video post, do your keen viewers an ‘electric plane special’. I watch you using yours so expertly and feel my own (Dewalt) deserves to be utilised more frequently. I currently find an electric plane of limited use, prone to ruining hard work and cause more issues than it ever generally solves.
Many thanks in advance, and all the very best! Alastair.
Man I'm a sucker for carbon fiber
As an Old boat Builder myself my advice is for Joe no Money can buy Lou, knowledge so suck it Up you lucky young Man. Now a question for Lou lets have some info: on Joe, He seems such a nice young man your so lucky to have found him.
My favorite YT channel by far!
The one clamp/ wedge method is worth gold. Effective and smart, a inspiring delight
It seems like the second layer of planking should have been staggered so the seams wouldn't line up. Is the glue so strong that this isn't a concern? I like the mix of old school and new innovation.
I'm glad to see another video in this series. The videos have been much slower in coming out that on your previous series. Any chance you will get back to weekly releases?
Is there any concern for dissimilar woods expanding and contracting at different rates? Like the white oak against the cedar?
Glad to see handsome Joe is still around. Marvelous beard Louis!
I don't understand what you think one layer of carbon sandwiched between 2 layers of wood does for you.
That first boat you are you design a new build was really enjoyment just want to just a glue and my lack like a model model of toys that bullshit too much sugar low by
Hi Lou, are you building other boats while doing the dory? Is that why so long between episode?
This build was interesting up to this point but this step was amazing. Everything comes together at once to build the bottom.
When using a notched trowel, make sure the groves are all the same direction once you've spread it out. Quite easy to trap air in your lay up if there not.
Do you keep snacks in you work shop? If so what kind? Keep up the good work!!
Was all respect it's too much work on people do you want to boat and go in the water what you been doing under and under in between and just to bullshit you don't need that crap
Nicely done. What about the excess carbon-fiber at the transom end?
That was a fairly challenging test and Joe assisted by the old guy did a great job😂
Joe you are a lucky man, suck up all that knowledge.
Joe looks uncomfortable being on camera.
You can never have too many clamps....
Tell Joe,he's a lucky young man. Learn all he can.
Love the west systems toothed trowel @14:30 next to all the total boat branding!
Nice! I was looking forward to this episode!!
Wow that is one hell of a glue up.
What weight of CF did you use.
Maybe you've answered this before, but I'm curious about the reasoning for the double planking on the bottom.
What is the sports Dory used for?
Will this dory have a outboard motor well mounted in it much like some Glen L dory designs or will it only be sail/oar powered? Keep up the great work I love the series so far. Also are you going to this year's WoodenBoat show in Mystic CT? I will be displaying my 12ft sailing skiff that I've been restoring and I'd love for you to check it out.
Lou, thank you for your videos.
I hope your health is well, and I would want it before any videos you make. We're here to see your work, and I want to see more of it.
I don't want to impose on your workshop "thou shalts." You ought to protect yourself from inhaling dust to start.
While it's not the time for me to start building a boat, you're an inspiration.
Can you tail why and how they put a bronze ring around early 18 century sail ship mast head?. I found one after a hurricane buried in the sand had octagon shape with a bronze ring like 16 inches wide. Thank you Enjoyed every video!.
why the carbon fiber great work
Hi, good job and pleasure to watch. I have noticed you are in possession of several block planes and they seem to be very handy in day to day operation. I'd love to hear your opinion on different models, which one you like the most and how do you set them up for specific kind of tasks. Take care :)
Lou, love your work and enthusiasm! You make me want to start building a boat right now! That being said, I want to be ambitious and build a nice big fishing boat with a variable degree hull. Can you go into a little more detail how you lift the bevles from station to station from the drawings? Thank you & I look forward to seeing your next video.
Hey Lou, thanks so much for sharing your craftsmanship with us. Your passion and connection with your audience is amazing and contagious. I wait for each video as an event not to be missed. You have inspired me to see my old power planer in a new light and it is a tool I have fallen in love with all over again. I hope to visit your shop on my next trip to the USA. Best regards!!
Hi Lou, that's a good idea to use carbon fiber. It's stronger than fiberglass and much more lighter. Nice to see you collaborating with next generation.
Great video. I always love watching your videos. I'm curious what the difference in strength and weight is of the carbon fiber versus fiberglass cloth? Maybe you can comment on that in your upcoming question and answer video.
Love all the videos Lou. Started watching five years ago. How do you envision this boat being used? Do you have a preference on how you utilize a sport dory?
Awesome video! Love this build. Learning so I can build my first boat. Have used James Town products for years to restore historical buildings and their wood components.
I would be honored Louis, to own any boat you constructed. If I can think of higher praise, you'll get it.
Lou, this is a top five video, for sure. I’m working my little stitch and glue fishing boat for my grandson, and the masterclass on working the epoxy and the carbon fiber will really help me get on with the taping and glassing I need to do. And great tip on the wedged cauls to help with the clamping.
Fantastic! Yet another great video! I love the idea of using the carbon fibre, especially as it is hidden and so doesn't detract from the wood. Superb work, as always, Lou!
Louis, is there a easy way to estimate how much epoxy you will need at a given time? And what do you consider when using different weights of fiberglass cloth? Love your show, and you have taught me a lot, ; thanks Louis
Another great video thank you . Can you please tell us how long you give yourself to work with the epoxy before it starts hardening and you manage that if you need more time when fitting ? And how do you manage the puckering of the wetted cloth to comply and keeps even to the rest of your build? Thanks again Louis and I hope Joe is asking more questions than us with the great opportunity he has with you.
Thanks for making these videos,I'm having a lot of fun watching and learning👍😊
That cloth is good stuff.
Great information/construction!
....13
It has been raining here for two full days so Ep 18 made my Friday when I found it on my phone this morning. It is looking great just so accurate and neat.
Would you wrap one entire layer over the whole dory and leave some of the carbon exposed for the visual look of carbon fiber?
I love your channel and your builds however I do have concerns about the way you are sandwiching the carbon here. The wood will swell and contract while that carbon will not. Just not sure how that will work out over time. Looking forward to the next video regardless.
The Epoxy will stabilize it all. Weather it be glass , carbon, or Kevlar, it's all just fabric reinforcement and works a treat with wood.
Never underestimate the power of wood expanding and contracting. It is a powerful force. The carbon fiber doesn't expand and contract the same way. Something will have to give or split.
It could actually work the opposite way expected since the wood joints will flex, swell and contract repeatedly over time while the carbon won't. The carbon resisting the wood's natural expansion and contraction could actually cause problems over time.
I am impressed with how smoothly that layup went. You had it figured out so everything was in place and ready to go for the process. Nicely done.
Great vid as usual Lou. The carbon fibre will make that bottom very strong without add a lot of weight. Do you have any idea of the total weight when finished.
Oh yea, love ‘in this Lou!
VelosRus dot com
You Sir, are a master. I truly hope that Joe understands just how fortunate he is to be your apprentice.
Really like the carbon in there, not only will it stiffen the boat and those seams nicely, but it will help prevent checking and cracking of those flat boards longer term.
Are you going to all this trouble because you have had failures of conventionally built dories?
Fascinating...a skilled craftsman. Thanks for posting.
It gets a bit pedantic at tmes.
Fully agree with the other comments, always look forward to this channel.
Great video. I really enjoy watching someone who knows what he is doing and does it well..
Great video. Love the pace
Get your coffe folks, the best show on youtube is back with another episode!
I hope Joe is taking it all in, you are a fantastic tutor, a real old time craftsman, Joe you are a lucky man
That went well. Good idea to have at least one trial run. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. (Also fast is lethal, but that's not the aim here). ;)
interesting procedure this can be used in many other projects, I look forward to the outcome thanks
Great series! Why are you reinforcing the bottom so robustly? Is there more stress on the bottom or will there be during the dory’s use?
Joe is lucky to be able to work with you and learn. Keep up the good work.
how much epoxy do you reckon you'll use by the time your done? and how do you figure out how much you'd need to begin with?
What is the working time for the epoxy, and does it have vapors?
These videos are great I always look forward to them. Many thanks
I need to work on my boat
ah always inspiring mate, you got so much done this episode!
God grown! Love that statement. Can't wait to see what she's going to look like in the water.
Anvil in the room????
A question I have is do you cut out your own wooden laminates or do you buy them?
It is really starting to take shape. Thanks for sharing!
Louis, thanks for all the great videos!
Great video, shout out to Joe! Awesome to see the lessons being passed down!
You really should have a Tv show.
best content on youtube
Couple of questions for you Q&A:
If someone were to build this (or something similar) what would the rough cost be? Maybe you can do a video talking about the cost of each stage?
Start to finish, about how many hours will a project like this take?
What kinds of conditions will this boat be best in? Light seas, flat calm, heavy beaching, etc.
Thanks, having a great time watching this project.
glue on...glue off
Lou what do you estimate the finished weight will be?
Good for you Lou!! Way to show us how it’s done! ..and you too Joe!,
🇦🇺. What a great job thanks for sharing