Wow Dad.... The dory is really looking beautiful now, just like I knew it would. IMPRESSIVE WORK! Being that I'm your daughter, I'm fortunate enough to be able to see this dory in person. I'm blessed... and proud to call such a truly talented man my father 🚣🏽⚓⛵
Hi mate. I Just wanna say your the best shipwright professional I've ever seen out RIGHT. No one comes close to your work ethic and professionalism. AUSTRALIA ARE WATCHING BROTHER.
I love the water, boats, carpentry and listening to experienced craftsmen so it is my pleasure to support you through Patreon. I can't afford to give a lot, only a dollar a week and certainly not as much as you are worth, but I hope with a lot more peoples support it will help ensure this channels longivity and some reward for its creators. Many Thanks. Dean
A buddy of mine built a little stitch and glue dinghy and I have decided that I'm going to build one too. I've watched all of your video's, and even though the S&G is no where near as complicated, there are many techniques that are transferable. I'm a decent enough woodworker; as good as some, not as good as others, but with your help I have the confidence now to tackle the the project. I'm happy to send a few Patreon bucks for all the lessons.
I'm a welder but recently I've started a new job as a welder at a local marina. Watching your video's as long as I have has really given me a leg up at the marina. The terminology they use was not new to me, forward, aft, amidship, port and starboard. Great vid as usual, keep up the great work Lou and thanks for the education.
It gets confusing when they start throwing in terms like gunwale (pronounced gunnel) and abaft and other terms from old English sailing and ship building. Sails are actually called sheets and ropes are called lines.
Looking great Louis as with any professional you make it look easy. As for the sanding and scraping sounds they sound great and if the others don't like it they can turn the sound off.
So much better than the crap on TV. Would make a great mini-series for we anoraks. Oh, and I know I'm never gonna make a boat like this ... but, it doesn't matter.
I know this is some part an advertisement for Total Boat products...and it is working! I wish every commercial I saw was of this interest and quality. Heck, if TB helped build something that beautiful I would not mind dropping my next epoxy purchase dollars with them...wowsers!
Loved it Lou. Can't wait to see you in the water with a couple of Oars having a great row. Alos thanks for the tips on the Total Boat products, I hope they tip you well! Thanks for sharing Lou. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
The woodworking on this channel is always top notch and I almost always learn something but, I have to throw a 'flag' on the painting ;) If the gunwales are going to be varnished (which would look amazing) then a small run of varnish along the tape edge, before priming the hull, would have prevented the little white flags that creep under the tape. It is an old, but good, trick for getting a perfect tape edge. Thanks again for posting this and the skiff videos! Cheers!
To be fair - I hear you loud and clear - but he did mention the clear epoxy sealer coat, first, 1. (Which *_could_* have filled the grain edge enough for premium tape - like frog tape, etc - to hold the line.) ± 2 ... a good scalpel blade (used as a tiny corner scraper) will clean up those stragglers - if any ... Though again -I hear you.) The not using enough thinner / reducer to get a perfect gloss/film is the much bigger teachable moment, iyam: Since we now live in a time when fewer and fewer folks remember/know that perfect gloss finishes were - for a good thousand + years - only ever done by brush. (i.e without wasting a minimum of 25% of a $200 finish on draped plastic, the shop floor, clean up and set up.)
Greetings from Down Under. Always learning something new and clever from your presentations Lou. Currently building a 28 foot plywood motor cruiser( Glen L), look forward to all your videos as one can often apply the techniques. Keep up your wonderful craft, it’s very inspiring. Best Regards Reid
Lou, I'm 56 now and have been around wood boats my entire life. I thoroughly enjoy your video series and hope you continue producing them as long as humanly possible. If you plan to sell the Dory it is my strongest recommendation you do so using the BaT auction platform. Also known as, BringATrailer. If you are unfamiliar with it, just start watching and reading about a few cars that might interest you. I think you'll enjoy the forum aspect and it would be really great to provide your followers a place to comment along as the 7 day auction progresses. I have no investment or financial relationship with BaT. I do use their platform often and have sold a few really unusual items with great success! I am completely confident the auction of your boats would be a huge hit for your followers, community and the BaT community. Best to you and keep up the great work!
I am enjoying this series a lot. I was thinking the same thing about wiping it down with denatured alcohol. Going with the reducer is interesting. I would like to know what chemicals are in it. I don't see any ventilation apparatus going, either. PUT THE LIDS BACK ON IMMEDIATELY! My Painting Rule Number One is: "Primer is a ground, not color." It is critical to not apply the primer too thickly. One of the most common errors is in trying to make it "cover." This notion must be struggled against and defeated. The thing to do is get a nice, even coat, keeping it as thin as possible. Grain in the wood should show through. Keep it even and thin and finish the application with nice, long strokes the length of the boat or nearly so. After using the brush on the laps, either clean it or use another brush to keep going back to prevent puddles forming there. otherwise, that will be where the paint will crack first. At 15:34, he suggests compensating with a coat that's a bit thick with a thinner one. This would be a mistake. Think of a balloon painted with several layers of paint. If the thickest, most flexible layers are on top, it will resist cracking if some more air is put in the balloon. But if the more brittle thin layers are atop the flexible ones, more air in the balloon will cause the paint to crack more readily. Making sure successive layers are slightly thicker is the way to think while priming and painting. Give it extra time for the primer to set up! If it says 24 hours on the can, give it at least 48. I like to get it in the sun after the surface has dried because I think those rays from the sun make it set up even harder. I like the sanding of the thicker areas of primer with #220, but after that, I would have taken some #180 grit and, not pressing hard or working it back and forth, but just passing it over the surface, down the whole boat, with the grain, to give the surface a little more "tooth" for the next coat to grab.
The way you get rid of the roller orange peel look is when you roll with the hot dog you back stroke with a brush. The product should be thinned slightly so it lays down. This gives it a nice traditional look. If you like the glass finish you can always spray but this is not as desirable a look and will show any imperfections.
Another interesting well made video. Thank you. I also support you a little on Patreon now and I hope many other subscribers will do that too. Looking forward to the sharpening of the scraper video. 🙂
You mentioned using penetrating epoxy fist, then painting the boat. I am going to build my first boat (thanks to you) and I was thinking of using penetrating epoxy and then painting (above the water line/glass the bottom and about 4" up I guess on the sides) and inside but some that I talk to recommended using regular epoxy all over including the inside and them painting. To me, I would rather have the penetrating epoxy soak in to preserve/protect and paint. Not sure what is best to do. The build will be Ply on Frame for my first boat. Thanks again and for teaching us all.
In a mold, i put fglass in first then kevlar in. Sure can sand kevlar. Can’t cut either without fglass on, even easier with gelcoat in first. Not really for your application. Wow that is beautiful. Lou thanks.
Another excellent video from a Master Craftsmen. I really like the way you describe what you are doing as you are doing it. When fairing a boat have you ever used a 'dust' coat of paint that you sand off to show you the low spots? The sanding and scraping sounds didn't bother me at all, they are actual teaching items as Lou said , you will know when it is smooth by the way the sound changes
Lou as always great video. Just two things. Why didn't you put on a clear finish on the bottom so you could see the Kevlar. Which is a really nice feature. And secondly a great tip which I got from a marine paint manufacturer. Roll the roller between your hands before you start painting. So that any dust or left overs from the manufacturer are out of your roller.
Love you and these videos. Always cant wait for the next. But im noticing a giant difference between this and the last series. You are doing so much more off camera than the skiff. We want to see everything!
HI LOU, I have been applying some of your techniques with great results - thank you. Please provide more details of your scraper, how to sort it up and how to sharpen it - it seems to be a valuable tool. ATB Martin
One thing about using fairing putties and epoxies, if they sand easily, doesn't that also mean they would also gouge or scratch easily in use (especially on the bottom)?
Yes I agree i thought the reason for the kevlar bottom was to curb abrasion from beaching, now we are covering it with a non abrasive resistiant materal Hummmm
Nice work Lou and Halsey! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Well worth a little support from friends on patreon! We want to help keep you afloat too!
I'm kind of surprised Lou wouldn't just use plastic pour spouts instead of punching the holes in the cans. Maybe because his way you don't have to pull off and clean the spouts? Love the video though - very informative.
Usually when painting on a two-part paint, I use the roller and tip (with a dry paint brush) to remove the roller texture from the coat. You mentioned " the orange peel" and that's what the roll & tip method is intended to prevent.
I believe the shape of the lip on the lid and the rim of the can mate on the sides before they ever reach the bottom where the holes are. It's a spring fit which is why you have to hammer it in and pry it apart.
Hey Lou I am a professional autobody repair man and painter. I am in your neighborhood and if you are interested, I could show you how to do the fairing and sanding a heck of a lot faster and with a perfect finish. Just reply if you are interested. Thanks for your videos. Love watching boats being built.
Hi Lou, can you please add a patreon Pledge of $2-3 with no reward. Most of the other Patreons I pledge to have this option. I don’t really have a need for stickers or pencils and I may not be the only one who would like the option.
Fire the audio guy!!! I had to skip the sanding/scraping part because I couldn't hear the narration over the scraping noise and the scraping sounded horrible.
You could unsubscribe from the channel if you want. Lou mentioned that this channel is a two man operation so I doubt that he will take heed of you comment. Great information as always!!
@@18183 why would I do that? I love watching Lou work. The man passes a ton of knowledge in his video. It's like being an apprentice. I just would like to see to audio levels changed. Lower the scraping audio, raise the voice over volume.
Question? My dad Built Me a 16 footlong lapstrake boat designed after the Lowell boats of Amesbury Mass back in 1965 he never used any fiberglass epoxy or anything on the bottom or on the sides of the boat never leak a drop and now watching all you boat builders you have to use epoxy to waterproof it why? To me if you're a master ship Builder boat builder or just a plain Carpenter shouldn't you be able to build a watertight vessel
@@bill7778 the skiff I'm talking about was built 1965 no video and yes my grandson still lobsters with the skiff I'm really not sure why I'm responding to you you act like an ass
Dana Coyle it’s a fair question and Lou explains this in one of the first episodes of the dory build. On his skiff build he didn’t use any epoxy or sealant. But a dory is used differently. Dories get beached in the surf regularly and sand gets in the joints. As the joints work that sand grinds out the timbers. So the epoxy isn’t about making the strakes watertight, it’s about longevity. On a skiff, you haul the boat in winter and the butted joints will open up and release any grit that got in there. A dory being made for rough surf has lap construction and whatever grit gets in the joints is there to stay.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 the skiff is 16 foot long 72"wide5 5 streaks High no butt blocks all made with to length material put together with bedding compound and copper rivets the bottom was put together with bronze silicone screws into white oak frames the planking on the boat was White Cedar the boat been painted every year since 1965 with no fiberglass no epoxy or any other resin type material it still does not leak except for in the spring when we put it in the water and that last for about 4 hours my comment was if you're a boat builder nowadays you use epoxies fiberglass to make the boat watertight it's not for longevity longevity is just taking care of your boat my uncle Ted had a boat a friendship Sloop that was built in 1941 and still sailing today without any major problems with it because it was well maintained unlike plastic boats of today where nothing is taken care of I feel if you have to put fiberglass epoxy cloth to make you boat waterproof then you're not really a boat builder my father was a master Carpenter Master boat builder and a loftsman most of his life
Why not? Having been a craftsman ever since will probably not have brought Lou the pension plan a bankster or CEO would have; sharing a lifelong gained wisdom in terms of wooden boatbuilding and general craftsmanship does justify both (Patreon AND an advertiser's contract with Total Jamestown) easily - so it might be about time to get lost Yourself, ain't it?
Am I the only one who finds these videos so relaxing?
Wow Dad.... The dory is really looking beautiful now, just like I knew it would. IMPRESSIVE WORK! Being that I'm your daughter, I'm fortunate enough to be able to see this dory in person. I'm blessed... and proud to call such a truly talented man my father 🚣🏽⚓⛵
Hi mate. I Just wanna say your the best shipwright professional I've ever seen out RIGHT. No one comes close to your work ethic and professionalism. AUSTRALIA ARE WATCHING BROTHER.
I love the water, boats, carpentry and listening to experienced craftsmen so it is my pleasure to support you through Patreon. I can't afford to give a lot, only a dollar a week and certainly not as much as you are worth, but I hope with a lot more peoples support it will help ensure this channels longivity and some reward for its creators. Many Thanks. Dean
A buddy of mine built a little stitch and glue dinghy and I have decided that I'm going to build one too. I've watched all of your video's, and even though the S&G is no where near as complicated, there are many techniques that are transferable. I'm a decent enough woodworker; as good as some, not as good as others, but with your help I have the confidence now to tackle the the project. I'm happy to send a few Patreon bucks for all the lessons.
This man builds some beautiful boàts. Before long it is going to be a lost àrt. He really explains every move he does. What beautiful work
I'm a welder but recently I've started a new job as a welder at a local marina. Watching your video's as long as I have has really given me a leg up at the marina. The terminology they use was not new to me, forward, aft, amidship, port and starboard. Great vid as usual, keep up the great work Lou and thanks for the education.
It gets confusing when they start throwing in terms like gunwale (pronounced gunnel) and abaft and other terms from old English sailing and ship building. Sails are actually called sheets and ropes are called lines.
@@johnferguson7235 - Sails are not called sheets. They're called sails. Sheets are lines that are used to control the position and set of the sails.
Such a treat to watch a master craftsman at work. You inspire me to pursue perfection! Thank you for sharing your work.
That dory just keeps on getting more and more beautiful, Lou! Love the lines... and the craftsmanship is simply sublime!
Looking great Louis as with any professional you make it look easy. As for the sanding and scraping sounds they sound great and if the others don't like it they can turn the sound off.
The camera shot at 6:00 to 6:05 is beautiful. You produce a work of art and you also have somebody that can record the work of art for others to see.
The sound of the scraping was going right through me. Nice work Lou.
So much better than the crap on TV. Would make a great mini-series for we anoraks. Oh, and I know I'm never gonna make a boat like this ... but, it doesn't matter.
this should be on Netflix.............
You really put a lot of thought into everything you do.Amazing job on the dory,the work skiff. Thank you so much.
I would be interested in seeing how you sharpen that scraper. Great video.
Dave Robbie I agree. I can get one sharp, but not that sharp.
th-cam.com/video/tp-BqugfN8U/w-d-xo.html
We still need to see the homemade scraper handle and how to sharpen those Red Devil scraper blades. :) Thank you!
I know this is some part an advertisement for Total Boat products...and it is working! I wish every commercial I saw was of this interest and quality. Heck, if TB helped build something that beautiful I would not mind dropping my next epoxy purchase dollars with them...wowsers!
Loved it Lou. Can't wait to see you in the water with a couple of Oars having a great row. Alos thanks for the tips on the Total Boat products, I hope they tip you well! Thanks for sharing Lou. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Wonderful video as always great job. Boat really is looking sharp with primer. Can wait to see the finished product.
There is a great work you're doing, we enjoy to see you a lot. Regards from Argentina and a great hug!
The woodworking on this channel is always top notch and I almost always learn something but, I have to throw a 'flag' on the painting ;)
If the gunwales are going to be varnished (which would look amazing) then a small run of varnish along the tape edge, before priming the hull, would have prevented the little white flags that creep under the tape. It is an old, but good, trick for getting a perfect tape edge.
Thanks again for posting this and the skiff videos! Cheers!
To be fair - I hear you loud and clear - but he did mention the clear epoxy sealer coat, first, 1. (Which *_could_* have filled the grain edge enough for premium tape - like frog tape, etc - to hold the line.) ± 2 ... a good scalpel blade (used as a tiny corner scraper) will clean up those stragglers - if any ... Though again -I hear you.)
The not using enough thinner / reducer to get a perfect gloss/film is the much bigger teachable moment, iyam: Since we now live in a time when fewer and fewer folks remember/know that perfect gloss finishes were - for a good thousand + years - only ever done by brush. (i.e without wasting a minimum of 25% of a $200 finish on draped plastic, the shop floor, clean up and set up.)
(If ever there was a hunk of wood meant to be loved on by a good big brush.)
Looking great. I very much enjoy watching this series. I rather enjoy the sound of a sharp scraper.
Greetings from Down Under. Always learning something new and clever from your presentations Lou. Currently building a 28 foot plywood motor cruiser( Glen L), look forward to all your videos as one can often apply the techniques. Keep up your wonderful craft, it’s very inspiring. Best Regards Reid
Looks real nice and smooth. I like the white color too.
I would love to see the sharpening of a scraper! Anything that can help avoid sanding dust would be a win in my book!
th-cam.com/video/tp-BqugfN8U/w-d-xo.html
Nicely done. She's coming along quite nicely.
Thank you so much you’re videos always brighten my day.
Awesome video Dad!
Lou,
I'm 56 now and have been around wood boats my entire life. I thoroughly enjoy your video series and hope you continue producing them as long as humanly possible.
If you plan to sell the Dory it is my strongest recommendation you do so using the BaT auction platform. Also known as, BringATrailer.
If you are unfamiliar with it, just start watching and reading about a few cars that might interest you. I think you'll enjoy the forum aspect and it would be really great to provide your followers a place to comment along as the 7 day auction progresses.
I have no investment or financial relationship with BaT. I do use their platform often and have sold a few really unusual items with great success!
I am completely confident the auction of your boats would be a huge hit for your followers, community and the BaT community.
Best to you and keep up the great work!
I am enjoying this series a lot.
I was thinking the same thing about wiping it down with denatured alcohol.
Going with the reducer is interesting. I would like to know what chemicals are in it.
I don't see any ventilation apparatus going, either.
PUT THE LIDS BACK ON IMMEDIATELY!
My Painting Rule Number One is: "Primer is a ground, not color."
It is critical to not apply the primer too thickly. One of the most common errors is in trying to make it "cover." This notion must be struggled against and defeated.
The thing to do is get a nice, even coat, keeping it as thin as possible. Grain in the wood should show through.
Keep it even and thin and finish the application with nice, long strokes the length of the boat or nearly so.
After using the brush on the laps, either clean it or use another brush to keep going back to prevent puddles forming there. otherwise, that will be where the paint will crack first.
At 15:34, he suggests compensating with a coat that's a bit thick with a thinner one.
This would be a mistake.
Think of a balloon painted with several layers of paint. If the thickest, most flexible layers are on top, it will resist cracking if some more air is put in the balloon. But if the more brittle thin layers are atop the flexible ones, more air in the balloon will cause the paint to crack more readily.
Making sure successive layers are slightly thicker is the way to think while priming and painting.
Give it extra time for the primer to set up! If it says 24 hours on the can, give it at least 48. I like to get it in the sun after the surface has dried because I think those rays from the sun make it set up even harder.
I like the sanding of the thicker areas of primer with #220, but after that, I would have taken some #180 grit and, not pressing hard or working it back and forth, but just passing it over the surface, down the whole boat, with the grain, to give the surface a little more "tooth" for the next coat to grab.
The way you get rid of the roller orange peel look is when you roll with the hot dog you back stroke with a brush. The product should be thinned slightly so it lays down. This gives it a nice traditional look. If you like the glass finish you can always spray but this is not as desirable a look and will show any imperfections.
Another interesting well made video. Thank you. I also support you a little on Patreon now and I hope many other subscribers will do that too. Looking forward to the sharpening of the scraper video. 🙂
lol I liked that short backwards segment ;)
Gave me a chuckle too
The alcohol can remove some oils from the fairing compound that is why they suggest their solvent cleaner
You mentioned using penetrating epoxy fist, then painting the boat.
I am going to build my first boat (thanks to you) and I was thinking of using penetrating epoxy and then painting (above the water line/glass the bottom and about 4" up I guess on the sides) and inside but some that I talk to recommended using regular epoxy all over including the inside and them painting.
To me, I would rather have the penetrating epoxy soak in to preserve/protect and paint.
Not sure what is best to do.
The build will be Ply on Frame for my first boat.
Thanks again and for teaching us all.
♥ the sound your scraper makes...ekkkekkkekkk. Do you have any pencils I stuff in my ears?
I refinished floors a scraper leaves a smoother surface than sanding.
In a mold, i put fglass in first then kevlar in. Sure can sand kevlar. Can’t cut either without fglass on, even easier with gelcoat in first. Not really for your application. Wow that is beautiful. Lou thanks.
Channeling Diresta at the end with the rooster👍
Another excellent video from a Master Craftsmen. I really like the way you describe what you are doing as you are doing it. When fairing a boat have you ever used a 'dust' coat of paint that you sand off to show you the low spots? The sanding and scraping sounds didn't bother me at all, they are actual teaching items as Lou said , you will know when it is smooth by the way the sound changes
Lou as always great video. Just two things. Why didn't you put on a clear finish on the bottom so you could see the Kevlar. Which is a really nice feature. And secondly a great tip which I got from a marine paint manufacturer. Roll the roller between your hands before you start painting. So that any dust or left overs from the manufacturer are out of your roller.
Love you and these videos. Always cant wait for the next. But im noticing a giant difference between this and the last series. You are doing so much more off camera than the skiff. We want to see everything!
HI LOU, I have been applying some of your techniques with great results - thank you. Please provide more details of your scraper, how to sort it up and how to sharpen it - it seems to be a valuable tool. ATB Martin
Lou that boat sure has a incredible bottom.
You mentioned that you would include how you sharpen a scraper in one of your vids. I would love to see that!
th-cam.com/video/tp-BqugfN8U/w-d-xo.html
You have done a great job with the oarlocks and rowlocks but what are you going to do about the Morlocks?
Just gotta keep plenty of torches on hand.
Yea, but what about the Murlocs?
Not to mention the warlocks.
Lovely sound! Thanks ❤️
Very interested in your scraper! Video Please ! And great video as always, love your work. 🤙🏻
I learn a little something with every episode. What is the secret to mixing the clear primer at 14:35 before applying:)
I really enjoy your videos
Why wait until after primer to put on the skeg?
thanks
One thing about using fairing putties and epoxies, if they sand easily, doesn't that also mean they would also gouge or scratch easily in use (especially on the bottom)?
Yes I agree i thought the reason for the kevlar bottom was to curb abrasion from beaching, now we are covering it with a non abrasive resistiant materal Hummmm
Lou, please do the video on sharpening a scraper. That would be very helpful!
th-cam.com/video/tp-BqugfN8U/w-d-xo.html
Thank you.
Nice work Lou and Halsey! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Well worth a little support from friends on patreon! We want to help keep you afloat too!
Thanks Tom!!!
I'm kind of surprised Lou wouldn't just use plastic pour spouts instead of punching the holes in the cans. Maybe because his way you don't have to pull off and clean the spouts? Love the video though - very informative.
Im itchin to see this thing in the drink.
getting close to launching
Thanks for the video Lou. Quick question-if you're painting the bottom, why not go with plywood? Will the interior be varnished?
Awesome !!!!!!
Usually when painting on a two-part paint, I use the roller and tip (with a dry paint brush) to remove the roller texture from the coat. You mentioned " the orange peel" and that's what the roll & tip method is intended to prevent.
Lou did a separate video using the roll and tip method, if you scroll through his previous works.
The skeg is installed after the hull sealing and priming so that it can be replaced later if damaged in normal use?
Now I know where the term Skagg comes from. lol
The sanding/scraping noise is like fingernails on a chalk board!
BigAlNaAlba excruciating! I had to take my headphones off heh
BigAlNaAlba, Garret Olds huh, for me it was the scraping noise that was just too much.
Lagittaja I figured that’s what they meant :)
When you poke the lip of the can do you lose the air seal? If you don't use the whole can immediately the paint will oxidize in the can?
I believe the shape of the lip on the lid and the rim of the can mate on the sides before they ever reach the bottom where the holes are. It's a spring fit which is why you have to hammer it in and pry it apart.
Hey Lou I am a professional autobody repair man and painter. I am in your neighborhood and if you are interested, I could show you how to do the fairing and sanding a heck of a lot faster and with a perfect finish. Just reply if you are interested. Thanks for your videos. Love watching boats being built.
Dats a SEXY boat
I kinda wish you could have left the carbon/ Kevlar unpainted modern/ traditional themed.
The drag from that kevlar cloth would have been pretty extreme. It had to be fared.
Talk about spin out a project into a million little videos. Will this damn thing ever be done?
Hi Lou, can you please add a patreon Pledge of $2-3 with no reward. Most of the other Patreons I pledge to have this option. I don’t really have a need for stickers or pencils and I may not be the only one who would like the option.
At the very bottom of the page there's a "Custom Pledge" option.
Travis D Thank you, I didn’t scroll down far enough.
I came here to suggest this also. A $2 per month option at the top would get more patrons i would imagine.
Is the Total Boat marketing / prompter guy any good around the shop?
sandpaper ruins wood surface. Always use scraper. [ especially musical instruments] on exposed timber
minute 13.07...only "nice" ...no nice 'n tight! XD
Fire the audio guy!!! I had to skip the sanding/scraping part because I couldn't hear the narration over the scraping noise and the scraping sounded horrible.
You could unsubscribe from the channel if you want. Lou mentioned that this channel is a two man operation so I doubt that he will take heed of you comment. Great information as always!!
@@18183 why would I do that? I love watching Lou work. The man passes a ton of knowledge in his video. It's like being an apprentice. I just would like to see to audio levels changed. Lower the scraping audio, raise the voice over volume.
That's better mate!
I had to turn off the sound for all the scraping parts. Just too much for me to bear.
Question? My dad Built Me a 16 footlong lapstrake boat designed after the Lowell boats of Amesbury Mass back in 1965 he never used any fiberglass epoxy or anything on the bottom or on the sides of the boat never leak a drop and now watching all you boat builders you have to use epoxy to waterproof it why? To me if you're a master ship Builder boat builder or just a plain Carpenter shouldn't you be able to build a watertight vessel
Please show us your videos of your constructions process if it is so easy, also do you still have the 16 foot boat or did it rot in the 80's.
@@bill7778 the skiff I'm talking about was built 1965 no video and yes my grandson still lobsters with the skiff I'm really not sure why I'm responding to you you act like an ass
Dana Coyle it’s a fair question and Lou explains this in one of the first episodes of the dory build.
On his skiff build he didn’t use any epoxy or sealant. But a dory is used differently. Dories get beached in the surf regularly and sand gets in the joints. As the joints work that sand grinds out the timbers. So the epoxy isn’t about making the strakes watertight, it’s about longevity.
On a skiff, you haul the boat in winter and the butted joints will open up and release any grit that got in there. A dory being made for rough surf has lap construction and whatever grit gets in the joints is there to stay.
@@jwilsonhandmadeknives2760 the skiff is 16 foot long 72"wide5 5 streaks High no butt blocks all made with to length material put together with bedding compound and copper rivets the bottom was put together with bronze silicone screws into white oak frames the planking on the boat was White Cedar the boat been painted every year since 1965 with no fiberglass no epoxy or any other resin type material it still does not leak except for in the spring when we put it in the water and that last for about 4 hours my comment was if you're a boat builder nowadays you use epoxies fiberglass to make the boat watertight it's not for longevity longevity is just taking care of your boat my uncle Ted had a boat a friendship Sloop that was built in 1941 and still sailing today without any major problems with it because it was well maintained unlike plastic boats of today where nothing is taken care of I feel if you have to put fiberglass epoxy cloth to make you boat waterproof then you're not really a boat builder my father was a master Carpenter Master boat builder and a loftsman most of his life
Are YOU a real boat builder?
Please paint it with a brush!
Workplace safety orgs will fine you $1200 for leaving that breaker box open with no blanks blocking the empty slots. Per person
now the ebegging starts
Ugh I hate the sound of those scrapers
Horrible squeeking noise but overall good vid
It’s too bad the scraper sounds like fingernails on a chalk board! lol
An advertising channel starting a patreon...??!! Get lost
He mentioned that at the very end. It's confusing why you would watch something you already dislike all the way to the end. Are you a masochist?
You better get lost with your stupid attitude, somebody gives you their lifetime of experience for free and you say that.
Why not? Having been a craftsman ever since will probably not have brought Lou the pension plan a bankster or CEO would have;
sharing a lifelong gained wisdom in terms of wooden boatbuilding and general craftsmanship does justify both (Patreon AND an advertiser's contract with Total Jamestown) easily - so it might be about time to get lost Yourself, ain't it?