Nice job with your video! That birm media you mentioned works great. Wish we could still use it here in California but the powers that be in Sacramento banned it in our State. Another great media for iron treatment is Greensand plus which requires potassium permanganate as a regenerate. Katalox Light works well on both iron and manganese, just needs frequent back washing but no chemical additives.
Yeah I was experimenting since I had no luck with the local guys. I seemed to have gotten my water pressure and longevity figured out. The iron bacteria well that’s another puzzle. Thinking about treating my well with chlorine. It would be my first time attempting it. Also drained the system recently to change a leaky fitting. When I filled the lines back up I disturbed a lot of sediment which helped with pressure, but I had to change all my toilet fill valves after 🤣
@@moonlightacmaintenance3232 yeah, there are a couple ways to deal with iron bacteria. In order to narrow down a good path towards a solution, perhaps a complete lab analysis would help, not something that a water treatment sales guy would do but one a state certified lab could offer. That way you could see if there are any other contaminants that would affect performance and effectiveness of your media choices/treatment options. If you contact your county environmental health dept, they can provide you a list of local labs.
@@moonlightacmaintenance3232you should probably bypass the birm filter when you chlorinate the well or it will strip the catalyst coating from the birm.
Thank you. Watched about 20 videos on how to do this but nobody talks about what media to get and how much to use. For better inside house water pressure, dump your treated water into a tank, I use 100 gal. But you can get away with 50 gal, and pump out to the house at whatever pressure you house can candle.
I looks to me that you should be filtering before that tank to get rid of all the sediment first I had my a year and a half and so have not had to change it at all should last about 5 years
You have to either add air to the water to the water or bleach to get the iron to micronize and separate from the water so that the filter can remove it. The tank is acting as a pressure/ contact tank.
I’ll tell you what has really improved my pressure. I did sway with the basket On the timer side of the tube and I drain everything down when I do my filter. Pull all my aerators and when I repressure the house it breaks loose everything in my pipes. DONT FLUSH TOILETS OR YOULL BE CHANGING YOUR FILLER VALVES. I’m currently using 50/50 rocks at the bottom and 50% ag and 50% birm and daily backwash.
But I agree. I may do away with the micronizer and get a air injected controller. I feel like the micronizer restricts flow enough that I’m not getting the proper gpm’s to create the upflow needed for the backwash cycle. I just recently did I complete line flush on the house. Unfortunately the contractors that built this house could’ve drilled for great water instead of just drinkable water.
Dude, you’re putting water softening resin in a filter tank… The resin needs sodium to kick the iron off of it.. You can backwash that unit till the sun hits the ass of a grasshopper but it will not clean that resin..
My water is loaded with iron. Iron is soluble (part of the water) in low oxygen. FIRST is to oxidize. I use a chlorine injector, but there are other ways. SECOND, you need a dwell tank... a tank where the newly oxidized iron can settle out. THIRD is optional but highly recommended is another media tank with iron removal media such as pyrolox. FINALLY. a micron sediment filter tor catch the iron particulate you created in oxidation. ONLY THE USE THE ION EXCHANGE RESIN AFTER THESE IRON REMOVAL TECHNIQUE. That ion exchange resin is not good for iron removal. It will just quickly load up and become useless. You must remove the iron BEFORE the ion resin. That ION EXCHANGE resin removes calcium and magnesium.
You can also use a 3/4" pipe cap on that tank pipe when adding media.
Nooice! 😎 STOC
Nice job with your video!
That birm media you mentioned works great. Wish we could still use it here in California but the powers that be in Sacramento banned it in our State.
Another great media for iron treatment is Greensand plus which requires potassium permanganate as a regenerate.
Katalox Light works well on both iron and manganese, just needs frequent back washing but no chemical additives.
Yeah I was experimenting since I had no luck with the local guys. I seemed to have gotten my water pressure and longevity figured out. The iron bacteria well that’s another puzzle. Thinking about treating my well with chlorine. It would be my first time attempting it. Also drained the system recently to change a leaky fitting. When I filled the lines back up I disturbed a lot of sediment which helped with pressure, but I had to change all my toilet fill valves after 🤣
@@moonlightacmaintenance3232 yeah, there are a couple ways to deal with iron bacteria. In order to narrow down a good path towards a solution, perhaps a complete lab analysis would help, not something that a water treatment sales guy would do but one a state certified lab could offer. That way you could see if there are any other contaminants that would affect performance and effectiveness of your media choices/treatment options.
If you contact your county environmental health dept, they can provide you a list of local labs.
@@moonlightacmaintenance3232you should probably bypass the birm filter when you chlorinate the well or it will strip the catalyst coating from the birm.
Thank you. Watched about 20 videos on how to do this but nobody talks about what media to get and how much to use. For better inside house water pressure, dump your treated water into a tank, I use 100 gal. But you can get away with 50 gal, and pump out to the house at whatever pressure you house can candle.
Since then I’m using 50%/ birm and 50%ag.
Backwash daily.
Thank you. I was thinking about mixing media. Great timing too. I'm in the process of changing my set-up.@@moonlightacmaintenance3232
They told me to only put enough gravel to cover the bottom filter, shaken. then the resin.
Yeah it doesn’t take much. Rinsing the rocks help to. I’m using ag / birm mix now and really working great and backwashing daily.
You might try a calcite filter before it.
I looks to me that you should be filtering before that tank to get rid of all the sediment first I had my a year and a half and so have not had to change it at all should last about 5 years
You have to either add air to the water to the water or bleach to get the iron to micronize and separate from the water so that the filter can remove it. The tank is acting as a pressure/ contact tank.
Try Filtersorb Sp3
I’ll look it up now. Thanks.
Add Rust Out to your brine well every 4 months.
I’ll tell you what has really improved my pressure. I did sway with the basket On the timer side of the tube and I drain everything down when I do my filter. Pull all my aerators and when I repressure the house it breaks loose everything in my pipes. DONT FLUSH TOILETS OR YOULL BE CHANGING YOUR FILLER VALVES. I’m currently using 50/50 rocks at the bottom and 50% ag and 50% birm and daily backwash.
You need a controller with an air injector otherwise you are wasting your time...the iron will remain in the water until it comes out of the faucet.
It has a micronizer inline
It’s a 48000 grain unit. I think it’s undersized for the amount of water we use.
I may upgrade to a 60,000 grain.
But I agree. I may do away with the micronizer and get a air injected controller. I feel like the micronizer restricts flow enough that I’m not getting the proper gpm’s to create the upflow needed for the backwash cycle. I just recently did I complete line flush on the house. Unfortunately the contractors that built this house could’ve drilled for great water instead of just drinkable water.
@@moonlightacmaintenance3232 i have high iron here also, pain in the azz. i agree. needs to be oxidized.
Dude, you’re putting water softening resin in a filter tank… The resin needs sodium to kick the iron off of it.. You can backwash that unit till the sun hits the ass of a grasshopper but it will not clean that resin..
What do you recommend
Besides a brine tank
I can most certainly help. Do you have any water test results? Need to start there.
@@evelynb7966 haven’t tested it in 20 yrs lol.
@@evelynb7966 just had a different well guy come out. He recommended birm and ag
My water is loaded with iron. Iron is soluble (part of the water) in low oxygen. FIRST is to oxidize. I use a chlorine injector, but there are other ways. SECOND, you need a dwell tank... a tank where the newly oxidized iron can settle out. THIRD is optional but highly recommended is another media tank with iron removal media such as pyrolox. FINALLY. a micron sediment filter tor catch the iron particulate you created in oxidation. ONLY THE USE THE ION EXCHANGE RESIN AFTER THESE IRON REMOVAL TECHNIQUE. That ion exchange resin is not good for iron removal. It will just quickly load up and become useless. You must remove the iron BEFORE the ion resin. That ION EXCHANGE resin removes calcium and magnesium.
Yeah I changed it up. Using birm and ag. I have a micronizer that uses oxygen as an oxidizer.