Great video. It is often recommended to cut 0.2 deeper from the base into the top of the lid, so you will for sure no gap on the outside when closed. Please keep on posting.
For the threads, the number after the X is the pitch. So it would not be an M2 or M3 but a an M56 with a pitch of 2. Increasing this number, makes the threads coarser. As a result, you need less rotations to twist the lid.
I think that you made the offsets (especially @18:00) is the best way to do this. The extra 0.1 offset on the vertical faces on the threads makes the thin edges of the threads less thin and thus less fragile/prone to tear off.
Great tutorial, I've never used use thread tool but much simpler than doing a spiral cut with a sketch thread profile. Real threads also have rounded corners. Also you didn't need to do a 0.2 offset followed by a 0.1 offset, you could just select the slanted faces and do 0.2 and select the straight faces and do 0.3. Cleaner that way.
@@ShopTherapy623 also is there an internal thread creator? Seems like you could use the thread tool for both the internal and the external threads and they should mate together
@@Numenor7 Yes, I'm aware that you can use the internal thread creator as well, but I have found that this way is more versatile, and usually gives better results.
This is quality mate, thanks for sharing. I'm trying to make a holder for the filament on my printer and I thought I could get 2 halves and screw them together
- Good job. - Some tips... --- To remove volume inside lid (after 'Combine(cut)'), simply select face, hit delete/backspace: F360 will attempt to "heal" the body... and if all goes well, result will be as desired. ---- Consider exporting STEP file: arcs will print better; plus, very handy for multi-filament prints (provided like bodies put in respective component). - Face selection for 'Offset Faces' on threads might be easier/quicker using 'Window' select, from left to right, then omit top/bottom faces w/ sh+click. I prefer this way, but some users may just find it "different", not necessarily "better". To each their own. - Anyhow, keep up the good/useful content :) ...
Very useful information and well presented, but the "allowances" were somewhat painful. When fitting parts, we talk about clearances. The sloped edges of the threads will not be perfectly shaped on a FDM (fillament type) printer, so the clearances will not be as "pretty" and uniform as Fusion 360 shows (not suprisingly, it was designed for metal machining).
Thanks for the video. Threads are my current learning challenge, so I plan to follow along with your tut to kick things off. As a side note, I've been trying to find a good way to print 1/4 20 threads for some photography related designs - wondering if anyone has any experience with that specifically in 3d printing? When things get that small, screws be snapping!
Look for videos about printing bolts/screws. Often, they are printed with a flat side laying down. Embedding real hardware (metal or maybe nylon) would work much better.
Sometimes I have to deselect on side of the thread to make the offset work. I really wish fusion would implement a FDM clearance option and to allow to alter the thread start angle…
Would it be possible to make a coarse thread like a Yeti tumbler top using this method or would it be different when going that coarse? Great video, thanks for the info!
If you are trying to match threads on an existing bottle/container, you'll have to very carefully measure those threads (or try to google what size they are) and try to match them. Most likely you'll have to create them from scratch. I have done it before, but it is definitely a lot harder, and takes some more trial and error printing.
@@jc507 This is a tricky thing to do. For me, threads almost never give a good centering feature with axial alignment. For tumblers, I would grab on a smooth round surface. For longer tumblers, add a centering jig at the free floating edge (2 rollers/bearings with an O-ring on the outside)
This is an issue with Fusion that has always bugged me. They do spend a lot of effort building new features into the software, but they never seem to add much needed functionality to the base tools. They need to add to the thread tool an option to chamfer a selected edge and by how much. Also because of the growing use of 3d printing, the thread tool should have a manual print clearance option to offset the surface instead of having to use the Offset Face manually. There's just so many basic needs in the software like this. A generate a helix primitive, not a coil, a basic single path helix. Better options for line styles and colors in sketches.
Can you alter the width and shape of the screw threads? I've got a small wooden screw that I need to make a replacement Nut with the inverted screw thread, however the screw thread is quite thick, roughly 2mm with a completely flat profile and I'm not sure if it adheres to the standard M2, M3 etc. Will grab real measurements soon (dont have it with me right now)
If they aren’t standard threads you’ll have to create them on your own, which isn’t too tough to do using the spiral tool. Just need to get all your measurements and then thread profile
The free version for hobbyist makers is still available, they’ve removed a lot of the manufacturing parts and have restricted the number of “editable” files which you can have (which is weird and pointless imho), but it’s good enough for most designs for tinkering.
Great video. It is often recommended to cut 0.2 deeper from the base into the top of the lid, so you will for sure no gap on the outside when closed. Please keep on posting.
Definitely, and great tip! I usually keep a little space there, but just forgot in the video!
I made the lid out of Bambu's TPU for AMS. Nice tight seal.
Thanks for the instructions!
For the threads, the number after the X is the pitch. So it would not be an M2 or M3 but a an M56 with a pitch of 2. Increasing this number, makes the threads coarser. As a result, you need less rotations to twist the lid.
I think that you made the offsets (especially @18:00) is the best way to do this. The extra 0.1 offset on the vertical faces on the threads makes the thin edges of the threads less thin and thus less fragile/prone to tear off.
13:54 is exactly what i was looking for thank you
Put some talcum powder on the threads and screw the lid on and off. It's abrasive enough to smooth out the action
Good tip!
Thank you, that was a good tutorial!
Thank you for this amazing video!
Excellent video, great tutorial. Thank You.
thanks for sharing ! i'm a beginner, and i've learnt a lot from your video. cheers from France 🙂
Great tutorial, I've never used use thread tool but much simpler than doing a spiral cut with a sketch thread profile.
Real threads also have rounded corners.
Also you didn't need to do a 0.2 offset followed by a 0.1 offset, you could just select the slanted faces and do 0.2 and select the straight faces and do 0.3. Cleaner that way.
Good call!
@@ShopTherapy623 also is there an internal thread creator? Seems like you could use the thread tool for both the internal and the external threads and they should mate together
@@Numenor7 Yes, I'm aware that you can use the internal thread creator as well, but I have found that this way is more versatile, and usually gives better results.
@@Numenor7 , yes if the threads are coarse. He was modeling a metal part; Fusion 360 does not have a mode specific to 3D printing with plastics.
This video is precious. Thanks!!!!
That turned out great.
This is quality mate, thanks for sharing. I'm trying to make a holder for the filament on my printer and I thought I could get 2 halves and screw them together
Lmao just watched a bunch of videos from this channel and then realized you are from Solon. I live in cedar rapids so we are pretty much neighbors.
Go Hawks!! Lol. Small world!
Great video. Thank you.
Thank u for this video.
Another great video. :-))
Thank you. very useful information.
- Good job.
- Some tips...
--- To remove volume inside lid (after 'Combine(cut)'), simply select face, hit delete/backspace: F360 will attempt to "heal" the body... and if all goes well, result will be as desired.
---- Consider exporting STEP file: arcs will print better; plus, very handy for multi-filament prints (provided like bodies put in respective component).
- Face selection for 'Offset Faces' on threads might be easier/quicker using 'Window' select, from left to right, then omit top/bottom faces w/ sh+click. I prefer this way, but some users may just find it "different", not necessarily "better". To each their own.
- Anyhow, keep up the good/useful content :) ...
Great Vid! 🤘😎
thank you!!
Very useful information and well presented, but the "allowances" were somewhat painful. When fitting parts, we talk about clearances.
The sloped edges of the threads will not be perfectly shaped on a FDM (fillament type) printer, so the clearances will not be as "pretty" and uniform as Fusion 360 shows (not suprisingly, it was designed for metal machining).
I always get allowance and clearance mixed up *Shoulder shrugs*
Thanks for the video. Threads are my current learning challenge, so I plan to follow along with your tut to kick things off. As a side note, I've been trying to find a good way to print 1/4 20 threads for some photography related designs - wondering if anyone has any experience with that specifically in 3d printing? When things get that small, screws be snapping!
Look for videos about printing bolts/screws. Often, they are printed with a flat side laying down.
Embedding real hardware (metal or maybe nylon) would work much better.
Sometimes I have to deselect on side of the thread to make the offset work.
I really wish fusion would implement a FDM clearance option and to allow to alter the thread start angle…
Would it be possible to make a coarse thread like a Yeti tumbler top using this method or would it be different when going that coarse? Great video, thanks for the info!
If you are trying to match threads on an existing bottle/container, you'll have to very carefully measure those threads (or try to google what size they are) and try to match them. Most likely you'll have to create them from scratch. I have done it before, but it is definitely a lot harder, and takes some more trial and error printing.
@@ShopTherapy623 I would like to make a jig for burning tumblers that mounts in a rotary. Thanks for the video.
@@jc507 This is a tricky thing to do. For me, threads almost never give a good centering feature with axial alignment. For tumblers, I would grab on a smooth round surface. For longer tumblers, add a centering jig at the free floating edge (2 rollers/bearings with an O-ring on the outside)
This is an issue with Fusion that has always bugged me. They do spend a lot of effort building new features into the software, but they never seem to add much needed functionality to the base tools. They need to add to the thread tool an option to chamfer a selected edge and by how much. Also because of the growing use of 3d printing, the thread tool should have a manual print clearance option to offset the surface instead of having to use the Offset Face manually.
There's just so many basic needs in the software like this. A generate a helix primitive, not a coil, a basic single path helix. Better options for line styles and colors in sketches.
Can you alter the width and shape of the screw threads? I've got a small wooden screw that I need to make a replacement Nut with the inverted screw thread, however the screw thread is quite thick, roughly 2mm with a completely flat profile and I'm not sure if it adheres to the standard M2, M3 etc. Will grab real measurements soon (dont have it with me right now)
If they aren’t standard threads you’ll have to create them on your own, which isn’t too tough to do using the spiral tool. Just need to get all your measurements and then thread profile
When printed, I find a squirt of silicone spray makes the threadded parts run really nicely together.
👍🏻
i love u
offsets got a little confusing...lost some hair
Hopefully you have enough to spare! Let me know if I can help you out with it
But Fusion360 is no longer free ... now it's only a 30d trial or pay :( I start switch to FreeCAD.... but I not like it
The full version is not (obviously).
The restricted free version still has a lot of to offer.
The free version for hobbyist makers is still available, they’ve removed a lot of the manufacturing parts and have restricted the number of “editable” files which you can have (which is weird and pointless imho), but it’s good enough for most designs for tinkering.