Thank you for taking the time to video your advice and tution - you have provided me with a simple but very effective solution to my wire fence occasional access problem.
These gates are also called "Hoover Gates". This is because during the Great Depression this type of gate was all ranchers could afford. During the Great Recession I actually installed one. I learned a lot from this video. Thanks for posting.
All that is needed is a lever attached to the loop approx. 1000 mm. The wire from the strainer post attaches to the lever about 100mm from the end. This is then pushed against the gate upright, opposite side to the post and at a right angle to the fence line. As you push the lever toward the centre of the gate it pulls up tight. It is secured with a sliding loop attached to one of the gate's wires.
Why such a wide gap? Seems to me cattle will just push it over and walk right through that. If it has to be that wide, how about some support for the middle posts, say something like short pipe anchors that the posts would set in.
@IronFreePony Because if you use smooth wire it won't keep livestock in. Fences are more a deterrent then anything else. If a cow wants to get to the other side of the fence it will find a way though it.
First off i would like to say nice gate for a simple cheap and short lived gate first what i would do is ditch them cheap fencing pliers and get a pair of Moore makers 8" and a fence stretcher then to make the hinges of the gate, pretty much the same way you did, don't use number 9 wire as it will stretch out more than you think, I use any brand of double strand barb-less wire when making a 5 wire gate mark your post to be in the same place as your 5 wire fence, to do this just take the hook part of your fencing pliers and strike the post to make a mark that you can see, do this for both posts, place the hinges in the center of number 1 and 2 for the top and in the center of number 4 and 5 staple in 3 staples, one in the back and 2 on the sides but dont slam them in till you pre streach the hinges, to do this take the post and place a staple about one foot off the ground and place then post in the wire and let the staple be the leverage point and pull back to form and streach the wire, be careful as the post may slip, this will help with the give with the hinges before you stretch your wire for the open end, do the same thing but your bottom wire should be about 3 inches off ground level and for the latch part, you can buy a pre-made gate handle for around 20 dollars or make your own, i make my own, or use a fence stretcher to open the gate with the wire on top, with a wire loop i place it about 3 inches down from the top of the H brace, stretch theirs as well, it will take some practice to get them to about the same size, distance between the Hbrace and Gate post should be about a hands width with a little play in it, now your are set to start making your gate step off the size of your gate, add one step for each wire your add so if the gate is 6 steps add one to make 7 then times 5 makes 35 and a few more for good measure, In this video he had a roller in his truck, so take the end of the wire and wrap twice around the bottom iof the Hbrace and tie off drive the truck along the fence line till your get to about the amount you need, tie off wire on the bumper hitch , and gently pull forward to pre stretch the barb wire, if your tied it off good you can pull until it breaks or till you think that its stretched enough, the point in doing this will stop the wire from coiling back up, when done should be straight and not coiling up any more now back at the gate, pull the wire to the gate post and tie off at the number 3 wire then on the other side use a fence stretcher and tighten up the wire be sure to cut off enough wire to wrap around twice with about one foot left over before tying off the post make sure all of the wire hinges are straight and in the place you want them, if all is good tighten it one more click then tie off them proceed to number 4 wire, then number 2, then 5 and last number one wire these 4 wires you do not need to do an extra click of the stretcher once this is done place a staple over each wire your wrapped on, you can just put one staple per strand on each side, or 2 per strand, using some fencing stays, those really thick wire twistie things your see on a lot of fence, you want the 48 inch , place in about 5 of them in around a 20 foot gate it takes a little bit to get them even spaced, leaving about even amount of the extra on top and bottom cut the top of the stay and unwind it till your reach the barb wire then roll one wire to the right and then to the left, a few times cut off extra, doing the same on the bottom now your have a really good gate that will look great and wont roll up in the weeds with this type of stretched gate most people will drive over them with out worrying about them getting caught in the truck
+johnny popper Thanks, I take pride in tell people how to make a proper gate, I have made 100's of them and they work better than the crap i see people make
everything was fine until the end , he needs a lever on the end attached to the loop to pull the gate tight , other then that good educational video , well done .
Around here, that style gate is called a 'Dutch Gate' because they're so cheap and easy. Just like the Dutch. :P I kid!! Seriously though, they're called dutch gates.
Thank you for taking the time to video your advice and tution - you have provided me with a simple but very effective solution to my wire fence occasional access problem.
These gates are also called "Hoover Gates". This is because during the Great Depression this type of gate was all ranchers could afford. During the Great Recession I actually installed one. I learned a lot from this video. Thanks for posting.
All that is needed is a lever attached to the loop approx. 1000 mm. The wire from the strainer post attaches to the lever about 100mm from the end. This is then pushed against the gate upright, opposite side to the post and at a right angle to the fence line. As you push the lever toward the centre of the gate it pulls up tight. It is secured with a sliding loop attached to one of the gate's wires.
Very helpful info, sir. I like the trick of twisting the post tight with the pliers.
Thanks for posting! I'm watching it from Brazil and i ll make my own now! Thanks for the University spreading info around as all colleges should do!
In Dorset we call these a Hampshire gate.
more familiar with steel posts with those teeth on it. dont think i noticed wooden post before, but i dont go looking for them.
Why such a wide gap? Seems to me cattle will just push it over and walk right through that.
If it has to be that wide, how about some support for the middle posts, say something like short pipe anchors that the posts would set in.
they are that wide for equipment
cows won't push it over or walk through it, the gates are quite strong
OK
Will this work with woven wire field fence as the gate?
yea
A lever closure, rather than the loop is much better!
They use to use lever to apply tension when closing. Many times you might see a hames off old horse harness collar used as lever.
@IronFreePony Because if you use smooth wire it won't keep livestock in. Fences are more a deterrent then anything else. If a cow wants to get to the other side of the fence it will find a way though it.
Thank you. Used this to build mine.
First off i would like to say nice gate for a simple cheap and short lived gate
first what i would do is ditch them cheap fencing pliers and get a pair of Moore makers 8" and a fence stretcher
then to make the hinges of the gate, pretty much the same way you did, don't use number 9 wire as it will stretch out more than you think, I use any brand of double strand barb-less wire
when making a 5 wire gate mark your post to be in the same place as your 5 wire fence, to do this just take the hook part of your fencing pliers and strike the post to make a mark that you can see, do this for both posts, place the hinges in the center of number 1 and 2 for the top and in the center of number 4 and 5
staple in 3 staples, one in the back and 2 on the sides but dont slam them in till you pre streach the hinges, to do this take the post and place a staple about one foot off the ground and place then post in the wire and let the staple be the leverage point and pull back to form and streach the wire, be careful as the post may slip, this will help with the give with the hinges before you stretch your wire
for the open end, do the same thing but your bottom wire should be about 3 inches off ground level and for the latch part, you can buy a pre-made gate handle for around 20 dollars or make your own, i make my own, or use a fence stretcher to open the gate with the wire on top, with a wire loop i place it about 3 inches down from the top of the H brace, stretch theirs as well, it will take some practice to get them to about the same size, distance between the Hbrace and Gate post should be about a hands width with a little play in it,
now your are set to start making your gate
step off the size of your gate, add one step for each wire your add
so if the gate is 6 steps add one to make 7 then times 5 makes 35 and a few more for good measure, In this video he had a roller in his truck, so take the end of the wire and wrap twice around the bottom iof the Hbrace and tie off drive the truck along the fence line till your get to about the amount you need, tie off wire on the bumper hitch , and gently pull forward to pre stretch the barb wire, if your tied it off good you can pull until it breaks or till you think that its stretched enough, the point in doing this will stop the wire from coiling back up, when done should be straight and not coiling up any more
now back at the gate, pull the wire to the gate post and tie off at the number 3 wire
then on the other side use a fence stretcher and tighten up the wire
be sure to cut off enough wire to wrap around twice with about one foot left over
before tying off the post make sure all of the wire hinges are straight and in the place you want them, if all is good tighten it one more click
then tie off
them proceed to number 4 wire, then number 2, then 5 and last number one wire
these 4 wires you do not need to do an extra click of the stretcher
once this is done place a staple over each wire your wrapped on, you can just put one staple per strand on each side, or 2 per strand,
using some fencing stays, those really thick wire twistie things your see on a lot of fence, you want the 48 inch , place in about 5 of them in around a 20 foot gate
it takes a little bit to get them even spaced, leaving about even amount of the extra on top and bottom cut the top of the stay and unwind it till your reach the barb wire
then roll one wire to the right and then to the left, a few times cut off extra, doing the same on the bottom
now your have a really good gate that will look great and wont roll up in the weeds
with this type of stretched gate most people will drive over them with out worrying about them getting caught in the truck
+William Glaser lmao nice novel u got there
+johnny popper Thanks, I take pride in tell people how to make a proper gate, I have made 100's of them and they work better than the crap i see people make
For the price of those pliers I'd rather but a pair of Plammers
everything was fine until the end , he needs a lever on the end attached to the loop to pull the gate tight , other then that good educational video , well done .
The truck at 6:26 in the background...
matclue4 alien truck 👽
In australia it's a kelly gate
Yeah
Around here, that style gate is called a 'Dutch Gate' because they're so cheap and easy. Just like the Dutch.
:P
I kid!!
Seriously though, they're called dutch gates.
I bought plans from Woodglut and did it very quickly.