As a fence contractor myself, I can confirm that you built that the right way. Lol 😉 Also there is nothing worse then trying to staple a loose post with a hammer.
You do a terrific job of explaining the process...Love your channel...and the humor is excellent! I am now an "Official Subscriber"... Please keep posting!
I like your pinky/thumb measurement. I always start with the enter wire and go out from there. It keeps the tension on your end pickets even so they pull into your loops evenly. I usually just use a loop to close gate, because I don’t get paid extra for gate latch on government jobs. When I do, I use a 6’ post and attach loop to it, and leave it 5’ long. You can get your shoulder behind it to push and leaves both your hands free to feed loop over brace post. Farmers seem to appreciate this.
Brilliant job, i love your mechanical gate closer. In New Zealand this gate is called a Taranaki gate its a cheap option for seldomly used gate ways and traditionally uses a length of hardwood brought around the Strainer as in a cam lock in principle the same idea as you are using here to close and keep gate in tension.
Personally I use a piece of srap pipe and a small piece of chain to latch and unlatch my wire gates with the top loop. It seems that these fences and latches are made for honest cattle and cattle that never get chased by stray dogs. My cattle would have that latch flipped up as soon as my back was turned. Also green grass just emerging on the outside is extremely tempting for cattle. Much more so than the knee high grass they walk through. So the wire spacing really allows for cows to stick their heads through. I do realize fence companies use new supplies and techniques to put up fences in a timely manner for profit. But small ranchers like myself cannot afford to do things this way. Mostly I patch and repair old wire with old wire and old posts are hand dug and packed by hand. These old posts and wire are close to 100 years old. However, I did use mostly new posts and all new wire (nonclimb and barbed) when we bought the 20 acres we live on. Some of the new posts didn't last 5 years before rotting. One section that gets pressure because the water trough that was all new...new wire and new 6" round posts. This section failed during the night with 700# just weaned steers. They went about 5 miles but were gone over a week. Luckily we got them back. There's nothing like those old redwood fence posts they don't rot and last forever.
Another awesome video. I like the latch you use on that knock down gate. Its funny how many different names people have for wire. We call it barbless wire lol. Its also nice to see other people using klein plyers.
Another good drink is to pre stretch your gatewire between a pick up and a cracker or whatever and get all of the curls out of it. Then when you open the gate it does not tangle among itself
That latch is actually really sweet. Never seen that before built in mechanical lever thanks for sharing. I am a dewalt person for certain tools cutting tools Bosch is my go to but Milwaukee does have the most powerful battery impact on the market for now even tho I know that is fact I hate being seen in public using Milwaukee tools 😂😂
The Taranaki gate is a makeshift wire and batten gate, named after the dairying area where it is widely used, although the gates are found throughout New Zealand. This one is stretched between concrete posts and has a barbed-wire top and five plain wires. When not used as a gate, it forms part of the fence.
Nothing wrong with hammering staples by hand. My dad, brother, and I used to do them that way. We'd use come-alongs, fence stretchers, t-post hammers, and plain old barbed wire staples, all done with our hands. We didn't have any power or pneumatic tools to do the work for us, even unspooled a few strands of wire by hand. Nothing wrong with doing it how you're doing it, really.
Do you have a video demonstrating what to do after you’ve stretched your wire? What knot works so you do lose your tension? The termination knot loses tension? I recently purchased a Strainrite gauge and can’t believe how much tension I lose when removing everything from the brace.
Typically we would double-wrap. We weren't using high-tensile wire on this project either because of the specs, but if you are you can use a high-tensile knot.
It's Lodgepole Pine" Pinus contorta " If it is the same as the poles being driven in the ground. This is one of the toughest woods in the Western States that grows in some what large volume. This is the same wood the Indians use on their tipi (also called tepee or teepee). When they turn the Tipi into a sled for moving the poles drag on the ground for hundreds or even thousands of miles and they take a very long time to wear out.
great video! But I did get a chuckle out of having a lock on a wire gate. It reminded me of friends that had a triple lock on their door that was flanked by windows. Locks only keep out honest people.
You have a good point. Cutting down on nuisance traffic still keeps the majority of folks off your land, but if someone really wants to get in... it's still wire.
We normally use hedge posts… they get harder than rock maple when they dry out. So we try to cut green ones…. Or if dry, have our new guy pound in the staples. They aren’t straight either… that adds a bit of Country charm to the looks of the fence. If the hedge fence post is bowed or bent, we have learned to find bent gate ends to match them or the calves squeeze through! Us Ozark farm boys have learned a thing or two. Our tensioner and lock is a chain with a baton stapled to the end to lever it tight. With the price of chain going up we probably ought to look at that fancy smancy closer lock thingy that’s available from SWI!!! But, crooked posts and gate ends are easy on barbed wire gates… what we find hardest is when we use woven hog wire with a barbed wire top strand. Do you have any good danged hints on how to make one that is pig tight using crooked posts? We can send you some crooked posts to do some research if you need them.
no one ever uses 3 in Oklahoma for a barbed wire gate, which were common when I was growing up. My dad's brother's ranch had a few coming into his property and even inside the property where he would move his cattle from one section to another.
I am currently building a perimeter fence on a 1/2 acre lot with dimensions 127’ by 172’. I am using 8 foot by 6 in treated posts and set the corner posts about 24 inches in the ground. My plan is to build corner h brace fence and I am afraid I may have set the posts below the recommendation of 40 to 50% of the post for h brace. Looking back I should have at least set the posts 3.5 feet to 4 feet into the ground. Also, when I set my corner posts I set them in commercial grade concrete/cement at 24 in. My question is will this affect the way my h brace will hold up? My next step is to set the brace posts and cross bars but I am sort of at a standstill because the more I read into it it looks like I should have set them at 3.5 feet to 4 feet deep. Since it is such a short run I am thinking it might not impact it much. I plan on running 4 strands of 14.5-15 gauge barbless wire and I don’t plan on putting too much tension on it. I would like to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
Props to you for taking on such a decent sized project and learning at the same time! Here is my opinion, you are correct on the set depth: you should have gone deeper indeed. Is this fence subject to frost in the ground? If it is then you risk the frost heaving the post out of the ground over time since its only 24" deep. If all you are running is the 4 strands of barbless wire then I would think you would probably be fine if you are not subject to frozen ground. But if you do any more fencing at your place be sure to go deeper!
@@SWiFence thank you for the reply. The frost line in my area is 10-18i inches and the posts that I set are 6 inches below the frost line parameters. so I don’t think frost would be a problem. I brought this up to another fence expert like yourself and he said I should be fine and if I want to be sure I should run two cross bars maybe on my longer run (stretch) with one running top and one running low but I have not seen how that could be done especially when using tension wire at 30 degree 📐 to brace the comer post and the brace post. I never knew fencing could be so complicated but I want to learn and experience is probably the best teacher but learning from others is also ideal. I do enjoy and learn a lot from your channel.
symmetrical was right, and it has a few different application to the meaning, but symmetrical would be correct; similar may not be symmetrical and still be similar! symmetry is parts size and shape, for example. having good symmetry would be equal in size.
Who ever knotched the brace rail at 5:16 could use a little more practice. The problem I've had with those specific gate latches is if you dont put a lock or nail in it the cow can pop it open really easy. I usually cut the bottom little bar off and they stay closed better.
No place on our place for wire gates. They are always a hassle. We used to have some wire gates but replaced them for something that always swings nice and can be locked.
It’s hard to believe someone in the world still wants to have a fence built using mild steel wire we gave up using it 30 years ago on our side of the Atlantic
Poor man has poor ways. In the Appalachian mountains folks staple them to trees anytime the opportunity presents itself to save on labor and posts. Self tightening as the tree grows around it. I've seen them hold tight until they rust away.
My favorite way to build a wire gates is a medium duty swing gate. I suggest the cost per year basis of cost of gate vs labor to build and maintain a wire gate. This theory only has failed with lessors that only install the new fence but do not maintain the fence.
its just regular low carbon barbwire. We wrap it twice and then back to it self so no knot needed--the main thing is to wrap it twice. High-tensile would def need a termination knot.
BTW I like the gate closer but when making a Cowboy fence gate, it seems a little silly, The whole reason for a Cowboy gate is to save money. Plus I am not sure that is faster. Think I will stay with a old stick to help close the Cowboy gate. Really is you get this fancy. Just get a normal gate. Anyhow thanks for the video, I love watching people spend money on silly stuff. ( Silly to me anyhow)
There are simpler and more premium versions of everything. When you're building for government entities they don't like to close their gates with sticks.
Am curious...how many appreciate the aesthetics of barbed wire? No need for a thorny hedge around the yard front and back of the house which requires trimming and disposal of cuttings. Chain-link? Eyesore. Pig wire? No. The house isn't a hog pen. What do I do with barbed wire left-overs? The barbs are much more intuitive than a picket fence that has to be painted every three years. Honey! Those nasty kids just initiated our new fence. Blood everywhere, t-shirts, hands, faces, I'll get the iodine. We might need more gauze! Make them look like little heroes.
FFS in my day they didn't have no new fangled leverage breakers you used a loop of strand and pushed the top in with your muscle, they got muscles today or WTF? I thought maybe it was just for a lock but obviously nippers can defeat that edition so clearly it's just to be even lazier, and the gloves, WTF are the gloves for? we ran strand, 25 miles a day at times.. branded, neutered, broke, roped, ran, and fed the nines using our hands, gloves were for ladies at cocktail parties... good grief you got a huggie under them britches too? gloves.... lolololololololo
As a fence contractor myself, I can confirm that you built that the right way. Lol 😉
Also there is nothing worse then trying to staple a loose post with a hammer.
Oh for sure! 😆
You do a terrific job of explaining the process...Love your channel...and the humor is excellent! I am now an "Official Subscriber"... Please keep posting!
Thanks for those kind words!
Good job on the gate. It's always good to see how other folks get it done. I will be trying a few new things on my next gate.
Thanks
I like your pinky/thumb measurement. I always start with the enter wire and go out from there. It keeps the tension on your end pickets even so they pull into your loops evenly. I usually just use a loop to close gate, because I don’t get paid extra for gate latch on government jobs. When I do, I use a 6’ post and attach loop to it, and leave it 5’ long. You can get your shoulder behind it to push and leaves both your hands free to feed loop over brace post. Farmers seem to appreciate this.
Great video. I grabbed that stapler awhile back and it’s saved me quite a few times.
Brilliant job, i love your mechanical gate closer.
In New Zealand this gate is called a Taranaki gate its a cheap option for seldomly used gate ways and traditionally uses a length of hardwood brought around the Strainer as in a cam lock in principle the same idea as you are using here to close and keep gate in tension.
I've never seen a gate like that. Very cool. I was hoping to see you open and close it. Thanks from so cal.
Basic ranch gate.
Brings back memories
Personally I use a piece of srap pipe and a small piece of chain to latch and unlatch my wire gates with the top loop. It seems that these fences and latches are made for honest cattle and cattle that never get chased by stray dogs. My cattle would have that latch flipped up as soon as my back was turned. Also green grass just emerging on the outside is extremely tempting for cattle. Much more so than the knee high grass they walk through. So the wire spacing really allows for cows to stick their heads through. I do realize fence companies use new supplies and techniques to put up fences in a timely manner for profit. But small ranchers like myself cannot afford to do things this way. Mostly I patch and repair old wire with old wire and old posts are hand dug and packed by hand. These old posts and wire are close to 100 years old. However, I did use mostly new posts and all new wire (nonclimb and barbed) when we bought the 20 acres we live on. Some of the new posts didn't last 5 years before rotting. One section that gets pressure because the water trough that was all new...new wire and new 6" round posts. This section failed during the night with 700# just weaned steers. They went about 5 miles but were gone over a week. Luckily we got them back. There's nothing like those old redwood fence posts they don't rot and last forever.
Uh
Another awesome video. I like the latch you use on that knock down gate. Its funny how many different names people have for wire. We call it barbless wire lol. Its also nice to see other people using klein plyers.
I'd be nothing without my kleins!
we need a video on how to modify the dewalt staple gun to run stockade staples please
You got it! 👍🏻
Agreed, I hate paying Dewalt for their over priced Staples
@@SWiFence did you do one? I can't find it...
Another good drink is to pre stretch your gatewire between a pick up and a cracker or whatever and get all of the curls out of it. Then when you open the gate it does not tangle among itself
Thanks guys. We build our gates just a little different but I like this way too!
👍🏻 To be clear we prefer more progressive methods ourselves but specs dictated materials and methods.
Was this dot
Yup, WYDOT.
That latch is actually really sweet. Never seen that before built in mechanical lever thanks for sharing. I am a dewalt person for certain tools cutting tools Bosch is my go to but Milwaukee does have the most powerful battery impact on the market for now even tho I know that is fact I hate being seen in public using Milwaukee tools 😂😂
Sounds like you know your tools well!
Thanks I learned some things.
You bet!
You’re video was very informative
Thank you!
The Taranaki gate is a makeshift wire and batten gate, named after the dairying area where it is widely used, although the gates are found throughout New Zealand. This one is stretched between concrete posts and has a barbed-wire top and five plain wires. When not used as a gate, it forms part of the fence.
Good video
Nothing wrong with hammering staples by hand. My dad, brother, and I used to do them that way. We'd use come-alongs, fence stretchers, t-post hammers, and plain old barbed wire staples, all done with our hands. We didn't have any power or pneumatic tools to do the work for us, even unspooled a few strands of wire by hand. Nothing wrong with doing it how you're doing it, really.
Absolutely nothing wrong with it--I just don't have the time for it on a regular basis.
Regards From MX
Good job 👍
Thanks 👍
Gostei da sua explicação, muitos detalhes importante é isso que devemos prestar atenção.
Muito obrigado! Que bom que foi útil.
What piece do you have to file down so that it will shoot the stockade staples?
My gate across my driveway is warped, could you tell me how to fix it? 10:17
Do you have a video demonstrating what to do after you’ve stretched your wire? What knot works so you do lose your tension? The termination knot loses tension? I recently purchased a Strainrite gauge and can’t believe how much tension I lose when removing everything from the brace.
Typically we would double-wrap. We weren't using high-tensile wire on this project either because of the specs, but if you are you can use a high-tensile knot.
Thanks for the info
It's Lodgepole Pine" Pinus contorta " If it is the same as the poles being driven in the ground.
This is one of the toughest woods in the Western States that grows in some what large volume.
This is the same wood the Indians use on their tipi (also called tepee or teepee). When they turn the Tipi into a sled for moving the poles drag on the ground for hundreds or even thousands of miles and they take a very long time to wear out.
great video! But I did get a chuckle out of having a lock on a wire gate. It reminded me of friends that had a triple lock on their door that was flanked by windows. Locks only keep out honest people.
You have a good point. Cutting down on nuisance traffic still keeps the majority of folks off your land, but if someone really wants to get in... it's still wire.
We normally use hedge posts… they get harder than rock maple when they dry out. So we try to cut green ones…. Or if dry, have our new guy pound in the staples.
They aren’t straight either… that adds a bit of Country charm to the looks of the fence. If the hedge fence post is bowed or bent, we have learned to find bent gate ends to match them or the calves squeeze through! Us Ozark farm boys have learned a thing or two.
Our tensioner and lock is a chain with a baton stapled to the end to lever it tight. With the price of chain going up we probably ought to look at that fancy smancy closer lock thingy that’s available from SWI!!!
But, crooked posts and gate ends are easy on barbed wire gates… what we find hardest is when we use woven hog wire with a barbed wire top strand. Do you have any good danged hints on how to make one that is pig tight using crooked posts? We can send you some crooked posts to do some research if you need them.
Hedge posts are crazy hard. Also terrible to work with IMO.
Solid
no one ever uses 3 in Oklahoma for a barbed wire gate, which were common when I was growing up. My dad's brother's ranch had a few coming into his property and even inside the property where he would move his cattle from one section to another.
Love the gloves marked L and R 🤣
I only use mine gloves.
Just starting watching you guys....so, are you from Florida or Wyoming??
Both. 😊
Awesome
I am currently building a perimeter fence on a 1/2 acre lot with dimensions 127’ by 172’. I am using 8 foot by 6 in treated posts and set the corner posts about 24 inches in the ground. My plan is to build corner h brace fence and I am afraid I may have set the posts below the recommendation of 40 to 50% of the post for h brace. Looking back I should have at least set the posts 3.5 feet to 4 feet into the ground. Also, when I set my corner posts I set them in commercial grade concrete/cement at 24 in. My question is will this affect the way my h brace will hold up? My next step is to set the brace posts and cross bars but I am sort of at a standstill because the more I read into it it looks like I should have set them at 3.5 feet to 4 feet deep. Since it is such a short run I am thinking it might not impact it much. I plan on running 4 strands of 14.5-15 gauge barbless wire and I don’t plan on putting too much tension on it. I would like to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
Props to you for taking on such a decent sized project and learning at the same time! Here is my opinion, you are correct on the set depth: you should have gone deeper indeed. Is this fence subject to frost in the ground? If it is then you risk the frost heaving the post out of the ground over time since its only 24" deep. If all you are running is the 4 strands of barbless wire then I would think you would probably be fine if you are not subject to frozen ground. But if you do any more fencing at your place be sure to go deeper!
@@SWiFence thank you for the reply. The frost line in my area is 10-18i inches and the posts that I set are 6 inches below the frost line parameters. so I don’t think frost would be a problem. I brought this up to another fence expert like yourself and he said I should be fine and if I want to be sure I should run two cross bars maybe on my longer run (stretch) with one running top and one running low but I have not seen how that could be done especially when using tension wire at 30 degree 📐 to brace the comer post and the brace post. I never knew fencing could be so complicated but I want to learn and experience is probably the best teacher but learning from others is also ideal. I do enjoy and learn a lot from your channel.
What type of gloves do you recommend for this job?
Any leather glove should be fine.
Where can I get te tight Erin top of the post?
?
This guy is so good he doesn’t need to wear long sleeve shirt.
symmetrical was right, and it has a few different application to the meaning, but symmetrical would be correct; similar may not be symmetrical and still be similar! symmetry is parts size and shape, for example. having good symmetry would be equal in size.
Why didn't you use a steel gate?
This is a government contract job. They didn't want one. The area isn't high-traffic enough.
Nice dang video.
Nice dang gate.
But I prefer to use them dang metal twisty fence stays on my dang gates.
We were dealin' with dang DOT specs...
@@SWiFence LOL
Who ever knotched the brace rail at 5:16 could use a little more practice. The problem I've had with those specific gate latches is if you dont put a lock or nail in it the cow can pop it open really easy. I usually cut the bottom little bar off and they stay closed better.
Also, make sure to mark each glove accordingly.
😆
Always add a extra wire or 2 to your gate over what your fence has
No place on our place for wire gates. They are always a hassle. We used to have some wire gates but replaced them for something that always swings nice and can be locked.
That's our preference too. If I remember right this was a government contract.
It’s hard to believe someone in the world still wants to have a fence built using mild steel wire we gave up using it 30 years ago on our side of the Atlantic
And you were smart to do so. We wish they'd give it up here.
Poor man has poor ways. In the Appalachian mountains folks staple them to trees anytime the opportunity presents itself to save on labor and posts. Self tightening as the tree grows around it. I've seen them hold tight until they rust away.
My favorite way to build a wire gates is a medium duty swing gate. I suggest the cost per year basis of cost of gate vs labor to build and maintain a wire gate.
This theory only has failed with lessors that only install the new fence but do not maintain the fence.
Can't disagree with you. WYDOT specs dictated both materials and methods in this case.
@@SWiFence
Yeah. I figured it was not your spec with the double brace and low carbon
Wow is picking up all that wire cutoff thats flying all over the place.
We like it so much we had to enlarge the holes in it. 🤔
Why do you mark your gloves R (right) and L (left)?
To see how many comments I would get. 😁🤘🏻
Why didn’t you use a termination knot in the gate staves
its just regular low carbon barbwire. We wrap it twice and then back to it self so no knot needed--the main thing is to wrap it twice. High-tensile would def need a termination knot.
BTW I like the gate closer but when making a Cowboy fence gate, it seems a little silly, The whole reason for a Cowboy gate is to save money. Plus I am not sure that is faster. Think I will stay with a old stick to help close the Cowboy gate.
Really is you get this fancy. Just get a normal gate.
Anyhow thanks for the video, I love watching people spend money on silly stuff. ( Silly to me anyhow)
There are simpler and more premium versions of everything. When you're building for government entities they don't like to close their gates with sticks.
Am curious...how many appreciate the aesthetics of barbed wire? No need for a thorny hedge around the yard front and back of the house which requires trimming and disposal of cuttings. Chain-link? Eyesore. Pig wire? No. The house isn't a hog pen. What do I do with barbed wire left-overs? The barbs are much more intuitive than a picket fence that has to be painted every three years. Honey! Those nasty kids just initiated our new fence. Blood everywhere, t-shirts, hands, faces, I'll get the iodine. We might need more gauze! Make them look like little heroes.
‘T for towards the sky’
There you go!
In Australia we call that a cockies gate
Trencher
For which part?
no its structural integrity ...lol use high tensile wire for braces never stretches ..
Uniform
Americans are obsessed with barbed wire. Have you never heard of plain high tensile????
We build that too.
No actually “ symmetrical “ is a word .
I hope you didn’t cut that brace rail in Dan…..
Here we have a case of fencing meets DOT specs. We had to follow their specs even though there are far better ways...
Why don't you open the gate so we can see how this weird looking gate works!?
We totally should have! We were assuming everyone's seen one already, but that's obviously not the case. I'll note that for future videos. 👍🏻
FFS in my day they didn't have no new fangled leverage breakers you used a loop of strand and pushed the top in with your muscle, they got muscles today or WTF? I thought maybe it was just for a lock but obviously nippers can defeat that edition so clearly it's just to be even lazier, and the gloves, WTF are the gloves for? we ran strand, 25 miles a day at times.. branded, neutered, broke, roped, ran, and fed the nines using our hands, gloves were for ladies at cocktail parties... good grief you got a huggie under them britches too? gloves.... lolololololololo
Sounds like you should take your man card and frame it. Hang it on the wall, maybe put some of those museum lights on it.
You can tell he’s from down south by how poor of a gate he just built
Wow. Ok. 😆 Not from the South. And I had DOT specs on this job I had to comply with. This isn't my driveway.
What a load of rubbish you’ve got L and R on your gloves 😂
Humor is lost on some folks.