How to Install Click Together Flooring | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- Installing click together flooring, or click lock hardwood flooring, is an easy way to get a wood-look floor without forking out the big bucks. The name says it all. The pre-finished planks just click together and no messy glue or nailing is needed. It's a simple job that'll transform your home, as well as add durability to your floor. This Easy As guide will show you how to install click together flooring yourself, and we’ll take you through the job step by step.
See the full guide here:
www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I've probably watched every laminate install video on TH-cam, but this one is the absolute best. Comprehensive prep instructions given here are essential for first-timers even for otherwise competent DIYers.
Cheers Ramin 👍 ^Matt
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly explain the important steps
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love the detail in this video. Great to see Mitre 10 encouraging DIY culture in NZ.
Hey kk
Excellent! Just laid our floor with this guide, spot on!
That's great to hear you followed this guide for your floor! Well done mate ^Ed
This is the best type of marketing for Mitre 10
Very good video, very systematically explained in reasonable details, also in the right sequence.
Wow. Your explanation is classily eloquent. You made it look so easy. Great job.
Hi there. Thanks very much for a great video. Explained everything you need and the clic technique was invaluable. I’d laid some quick fit flooring & thought it was the same technique. I watched your video and what a relief. Absolutely brilliant. Thanks again all the best
Wow. I was seriously in tears from trying to figure it out on my own after spending all day ripping out my old flooring. I definitely feel like I'll be able to get it done now.
Glad we could help Johanna! Good luck 😊 ^Frank
Fantastic video! Thank you.
loved watching this video on fathers day explained nice ley
Great video! Thank you!!!
Nicely done. Appreciate it.
Excellent video!
We are about to do this. Thank you so look much for the info
Removing old skirting is not that easy
Did you take into account the expansion gap before you calculated the width of the room? 20mm is perfect for the gap. Divided by 2 for both sides you get 10 mills on both sides. Maybe you didn't need to cut the very first board?
I know this was posted a while ago. But if youre still interested. He disregarded the expansion gap in his calculation because he had cut the bottom of the gib board which gives the 10mm expansion gap. Therefore the floor will expand under the wall and he can use a 10mm skirting board. If u dont cut the bottom of the gib board then you should include the gap in ur calculation and consider using a thicker skirting board.
Great video
Well done!
Happy Father's Day, Mr. New Zealand! LOL!!!
Thanks
The best channel
Thank u for good work smart work
Very useful! Thanks
Stoked you liked it Michael, thanks for watching! ^Cam
dont have the tools or the know how. at least this convinced me to hire someone competent!
cutting under all the skirting makes perfect sense.
Hi there. Would you advise glue down or floating?
Is that peel and stick product @10:20 available in store at mitre 10? Cant see it on the website. Thanks
Awesome👌
Impressive
I'm just wondering, instead of cutting off the bottom of the plasterboard/wallboard, if you're going to put skirting on top of the flooring anyway, why not just have the flooring start from 10mm away from the wall (as the skirting will hide the end of the board anyway) ?
If the flooring is in high sunlight during summer months, it could shrink slightly(as it looses moisture content). Then the edge of the flooring will ' crawl 'out from under the skirting and you will see a gap. The flooring has to thus be a few millimeters under the skirting when it is installed. Hope that helps mate.
@@DG-im9wg ohhh. Actually that makes perfect sense (was anticipating them expanding, but not shrinking). Thanks very much.
Got the same Red Wings, up top!
I think you showed the underlay being put laid upside down - the membrane side should be underneath as it prevents the moisture getting to the foam rubber (which would deteriorate if wet/damp).
Hey Roger, we have double checked this with the supplier and they've let us know that their underlay is specifically designed to be laid plastic side facing up. While it would seem logical that the 2mm foam might absorb moisture this is simply not the case. The smooth top allows the floor to expand. The plastic side has much lower friction than the foam and this is very important in order to reduce stresses or tension within the floating floor system. ^Matt
@@mitre10nz Brilliant reply - thank you.
Of course your reply has arrived just one day AFTER I finished laying my flooring (incorrectly!)…
Rats !!!! (But thank you!). 🤓😀
Kind regards
RH Auckland NZ 🇳🇿
Hi, me again. How long does it take for you to finish the room in this video? (including furniture move, demolition, floor leveling, actual installation, cleaning up, and tidying up)
Each job will vary in time, but a job this size can take a couple of days. ^Cam
@@mitre10nz Thanks, Cam. One more question: what's the rough labour cost per sqm in Auckland?
If you're looking to get a hand with the job, best to check that one out with your local tradies for an up to date idea on their pricing. ^Matt
Greetings from USA! Great video but what are these meters you speak of?
1 meter = 100 centimeters . google it to do see how much it is in ft
....it's the thing the rest of the world uses!
@@zshadow666 That great American Space Agency NASA uses predominantly metric and imperial huehuehue
"METRES" - I think you mean - Meters are for measuring use of water, power etc in the real world... 🤓😀👍
@@rogerhawkins6433 in the US we can't even spell meters the same. Lol
Whete i get this
Why not dump membrane on the top of concrete
Before underlayer flooring
Is this good for wet areas? Like bathroom/toilet?
Yes can do but you would want to waterproof ..
There are some similar laminated flooring for kitchen and bathroom
Floating timber floors are not suitable for bathrooms unfortunately.
Use vinyl planks in kitchen and bathrooms. Or tile.
3mm over 1m. over 3m that 9mm that will get you into trouble in time. I work too 3mm +- over 3m. your underlay is upside down.the moisture membrane should face down to the concrete not the foam. Over time in damp areas it will eat the foam away.
Also should use water proof cloth tap on the joins.
I blame the underlay makers, they should mark it "this side face down" instead of printing there silly logos all over it.
Can the boards be cut with a Jig Saw?
Heya, it wouldn’t be recommended as the cut would never be perfectly straight 👍 ^Charlie
@@mitre10nz thanks mate!
In the US it’s called baseboard.
Did you also realize after you did measurements that you could have skipped the undercut and the 20mm Short would have been the 10mm you need on either side?
We needed to 10-14mm expansion gap. Our skirting was only 10mm so we needed to undercut our gib to make up that extra 4mm. If you skirting was more than 14mm wide, you wouldn’t need to do this ^Charlie
Мы собираем всю полосу паркетной доски по длинне комнаты и потом защёлкываем.
Man, I still cant catch the diff. between Aussie and Kiwi. I was thinking Aussie the whole time. Doooh!
Huge difference between them.
I swear he said one of the boards needed to be 6 inches.
Sz goj no view been
H joints everywhere, bish bosh pish posh done......
Stuff that
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Typical Kiwis. Using Metric and Imperial. must be multi-skilled 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Mitre 10 NZ way better than Aus.
Easy as 🤟
So e weird terminology here: packer? I prefer the word spacer.
In Australia & New Zealand ... packer is correct
@@julesbaumann6560 yep spacers are for tiling.
You could also try the word "Shim"
Cluck together flooring....
Cant stand metric system
Yea it's annoying how logical it is.
I cant stand sitting down.