Thanks for watching! I want to again give credit to Mike Pekovich for this idea and encourage you to go watch his "Go-To Work Holding Jigs" video on Fine Woodworking's channel (watch here: th-cam.com/video/eqWbgkl_ryM/w-d-xo.html). I by no means want it to seem like I'm trying to steal his design. I wanted to make this video because I didn't see any video of him making one and thought it might be helpful to some people to have a video tutorial making a shooting board inspired by his design. I also wanted to include some other tips and features (such as chamfering the base top) that weren't mentioned in Mike's video or the associated PDF article to the video that I thought added additional value. You'll also notice I changed the size of the shooting board and left off the mitered feature from Mike's original design. You may also notice that I modeled the size of the board after Rob Cosman's shooting board design (watch his here: th-cam.com/video/YyfvygylyJg/w-d-xo.html). I think the size of his shooting board is the perfect size that's not too small and not too big. Basically, I took what I liked about Rob's design (the size) and what I liked about Mike's design (the adjustable fence) and jammed them together to make this shooting board. Finally, I know I've mentioned before that I'm working on a video comparing different shooting boards I've made and I promise that'll be coming out shortly. Obviously, I intended to make this shooting board and wanted to give some time to use it first before finalizing the "shooting board shoot out" video. I have the script for the video finished and now I need to film and edit it. I'm pretty excited about it and hope it'll be helpful for people trying to decide what shooting board to make. The video will compare what I see as pros and cons to Paul Sellers' shooting board, Rob Cosman's design which I'm categorizing as a "Fixed Fence" design, and a final category of "Adjustable Fence" designs that'll include this one here, Rex Kreuger's, and a brief mention about Wood By Wright's highly engineered shooting board. So be on the lookout for that video here soon! And hey, if you haven't done so already, consider subscribing and hit the bell so you can be notified when I publish that video 😉. Thanks again for watching!
I think this is the most sensible design as most of the pressure is on the immovable screw and less so on the adjustable nut. Other designs I've seen use two adjustable screws which I think would make it come out of square far quicker.
Super nice project .Earlier in your comparison video about shooting boards you said there was less space in one board to work long pieces.We can make another board and place it side by side.This seems to be solution to plane long stocks using shooting board.
Great video. Thank you for making this and the other comparison video. I plan to make this one. I did make the Paul Sellers design but I am liking all the benefits of this one.
Wouldn't the chamfer for preventing sawdust to accumulate interfere with the already small surface of contact of the plane against the reference edge? Remember that the only contact is the very small area between the blade and the edge of the plane.
If the point of the knob is only to adjust it to square , and not to adjust to other angles, why don't you just build it square in the first place and glue/screw it down permanently? You also don't need the fence to be flush with the edge that the plane rides along, it should actually be back a bit.
The star knob fits in a slightly oversized hole that allows the fence to move slightly up and down. It isn't a lot of room to move but it is enough to square the fence up.
@@DaughtersWoodCo Excellent. Well, thank you -- this was a really clear presentation of how to do it and I enjoyed it very much. I was thinking of making the Paul Sellers flavor, but I think I'll try this one out instead.
Thanks for watching! I want to again give credit to Mike Pekovich for this idea and encourage you to go watch his "Go-To Work Holding Jigs" video on Fine Woodworking's channel (watch here: th-cam.com/video/eqWbgkl_ryM/w-d-xo.html). I by no means want it to seem like I'm trying to steal his design. I wanted to make this video because I didn't see any video of him making one and thought it might be helpful to some people to have a video tutorial making a shooting board inspired by his design. I also wanted to include some other tips and features (such as chamfering the base top) that weren't mentioned in Mike's video or the associated PDF article to the video that I thought added additional value.
You'll also notice I changed the size of the shooting board and left off the mitered feature from Mike's original design. You may also notice that I modeled the size of the board after Rob Cosman's shooting board design (watch his here: th-cam.com/video/YyfvygylyJg/w-d-xo.html). I think the size of his shooting board is the perfect size that's not too small and not too big. Basically, I took what I liked about Rob's design (the size) and what I liked about Mike's design (the adjustable fence) and jammed them together to make this shooting board.
Finally, I know I've mentioned before that I'm working on a video comparing different shooting boards I've made and I promise that'll be coming out shortly. Obviously, I intended to make this shooting board and wanted to give some time to use it first before finalizing the "shooting board shoot out" video. I have the script for the video finished and now I need to film and edit it. I'm pretty excited about it and hope it'll be helpful for people trying to decide what shooting board to make. The video will compare what I see as pros and cons to Paul Sellers' shooting board, Rob Cosman's design which I'm categorizing as a "Fixed Fence" design, and a final category of "Adjustable Fence" designs that'll include this one here, Rex Kreuger's, and a brief mention about Wood By Wright's highly engineered shooting board. So be on the lookout for that video here soon! And hey, if you haven't done so already, consider subscribing and hit the bell so you can be notified when I publish that video 😉.
Thanks again for watching!
I always struggled making one square too , thanks for sharing man .
I think this is the most sensible design as most of the pressure is on the immovable screw and less so on the adjustable nut. Other designs I've seen use two adjustable screws which I think would make it come out of square far quicker.
Super nice project .Earlier in your comparison video about shooting boards you said there was less space in one board to work long pieces.We can make another board and place it side by side.This seems to be solution to plane long stocks using shooting board.
Great video. Thank you for making this and the other comparison video. I plan to make this one. I did make the Paul Sellers design but I am liking all the benefits of this one.
Awesome! Hope it goes well for you!
Thank you
Is there anything else we can also do to ensure that the fence doesn’t move when shooting? Or does the nut offer enough of a ‘lockdown’?
The nut should offer enough of a lockdown to secure everything in place, but I would still periodically check to make sure it is square.
Wouldn't the chamfer for preventing sawdust to accumulate interfere with the already small surface of contact of the plane against the reference edge? Remember that the only contact is the very small area between the blade and the edge of the plane.
I don't think so and I haven't had any issues with it so far. If it is something you're concerned with you can always use a thicker piece of plywood.
cool
If the point of the knob is only to adjust it to square , and not to adjust to other angles, why don't you just build it square in the first place and glue/screw it down permanently? You also don't need the fence to be flush with the edge that the plane rides along, it should actually be back a bit.
Where is the adjustment?
The star knob fits in a slightly oversized hole that allows the fence to move slightly up and down. It isn't a lot of room to move but it is enough to square the fence up.
@@DaughtersWoodCo Do you find that it stays put and doesn't want to move once you tighten down the star knob?
@@jlecount Yeah, I was a little worried about this as well but I haven't found it to move once I tighten it down.
@@DaughtersWoodCo Excellent. Well, thank you -- this was a really clear presentation of how to do it and I enjoyed it very much. I was thinking of making the Paul Sellers flavor, but I think I'll try this one out instead.
@@jlecount Glad it is helpful! I made Paul Sellers shooting board as well and I have enjoyed this one way more!