Don't mean to ruffle feathers either. Depends on what your goals are. We did a plumb bob and tape measure alignment on buddy's cars and he dingle ball honed block and it ran 9.40 off the trailer :)
if you have a low mileage engine with minimal wear or no ridge at top of cylinder, those hones are ok, I prefer a rigid hone like aamco's because if your cylinder has out of round or uneven wear, that hone can actually help straighten the bores to some extent, in some cases your clearance will be excessive and need to be bored anyway
This has bugged me ever since I watched it. You CANNOT MEASURE how much material has been removed from the area of ring travel by measuring from the step, or even the step as reduced. Maybe you don't care. It's just a cruiser. But without knowing what you have already done, you may be surprised when the County shows up and awards you the Champion Mosquito Fogger 2023 Award. So before you order pistons, or start stuffing the Originals back in, a dial bore gauge (which I am sure you have), in every hole, athwart and in line with the crank is something you should invest time in. There is a fantastic Podcast from Total Seal (Lake is plenty savvy, but not a scientist) you would do well to watch. An EYE OPENER for me. I was decades behind in ring knowledge. It ought to be required viewing for anyone building a high performance engine, let alone any kind of race engine. And the plateaus and valleys pattern they have worked up and tested would do wonders for a street engine's longevity. If the ridge was BIG, then I used, gently, in steps, a (Lisle, there I SAID it!) ridge cutter, then let the machine shop do what was needed. The ball hone was limited to touching up the Xhatch pattern, when and as needed.
Absolutely fair comment; that's why we went ahead and picked up new rings from MAHLE that we're going to file to fit the stock pistons. And Lake Speed Jr. is one of the brightest guys in our industry. I've known him for over a decade and he can still manage to blow my socks off with his knowledge.
I see the cases for the dingle ball hone like quick turn around or no shop near you, but how much did you really save? Those dingle ball hones are around $100 each. Had a 360 re-honed to freshen it up after wiping out a cam, and it only cost a bit more including their labor, not mine.
I have an old Superstock 440 that has been sitting in a garage for 30years.. Really good shape just some stains where the pistons had been sitting.. I was going to try the flex home 320 grit. Do you think this is too fine?
Admittedly, we didn't. The block was sent over to Tommy's Auto & Machine in Springfield, TN the day after filming. The goal was to show how these can quickly and easily clean up a cylinder.
@@moparconnection I have to admit I wonder why choose a dingle ball over a straight stone type hone in any case. If the bore isn't straight, or is pitted or scored the ball hone will hit all the interior surfaces and clean them up but won't show where problems are or fix them, where a straight stone hone should at least help show where problem areas are if it can't clean them up. My Uncle Harry's early teachings. He hated the dingle ball hones. I love watching these videos and especially looking forward to everything on the Fury. I'm going to be doing a home build on my own Challenger's engine at some point
If everything looked good and the motor ran fine and your not racing the engine I see no reason to do do more....just wasting your money like Kevin stated. An the block is a 1975 not a 1968-70
We're making 668HP and 700 lbs. ft. of torque on a 1976 block in our Charger. We debunked the whole "high nickel casting" myth back at Mopar Muscle ages ago (maybe 2006?). UTG did the same too.
Don't mean to ruffle feathers either. Depends on what your goals are. We did a plumb bob and tape measure alignment on buddy's cars and he dingle ball honed block and it ran 9.40 off the trailer :)
BAM! That's rad!
I always enjoy watching different ways to do things, on a good block this is a great money saving alternative.
We appreciate you watching!
These Mopar videos are great and informative!
Glad you like them!
if you have a low mileage engine with minimal wear or no ridge at top of cylinder, those hones are ok, I prefer a rigid hone like aamco's because if your cylinder has out of round or uneven wear, that hone can actually help straighten the bores to some extent, in some cases your clearance will be excessive and need to be bored anyway
Yes! The stone tools are a little more precise. I really just wanted to show how easily they can clean up an otherwise undamaged cylinder.
This has bugged me ever since I watched it. You CANNOT MEASURE how much material has been removed from the area of ring travel by measuring from the step, or even the step as reduced. Maybe you don't care. It's just a cruiser. But without knowing what you have already done, you may be surprised when the County shows up and awards you the Champion Mosquito Fogger 2023 Award. So before you order pistons, or start stuffing the Originals back in, a dial bore gauge (which I am sure you have), in every hole, athwart and in line with the crank is something you should invest time in.
There is a fantastic Podcast from Total Seal (Lake is plenty savvy, but not a scientist) you would do well to watch. An EYE OPENER for me. I was decades behind in ring knowledge. It ought to be required viewing for anyone building a high performance engine, let alone any kind of race engine. And the plateaus and valleys pattern they have worked up and tested would do wonders for a street engine's longevity.
If the ridge was BIG, then I used, gently, in steps, a (Lisle, there I SAID it!) ridge cutter, then let the machine shop do what was needed. The ball hone was limited to touching up the Xhatch pattern, when and as needed.
Absolutely fair comment; that's why we went ahead and picked up new rings from MAHLE that we're going to file to fit the stock pistons. And Lake Speed Jr. is one of the brightest guys in our industry. I've known him for over a decade and he can still manage to blow my socks off with his knowledge.
The music, the rhythm, the pacing. Cylinder clean up porn. 😉
Man, that's awesome. Thank you!
I see the cases for the dingle ball hone like quick turn around or no shop near you, but how much did you really save? Those dingle ball hones are around $100 each.
Had a 360 re-honed to freshen it up after wiping out a cam, and it only cost a bit more including their labor, not mine.
Nowhere near that much- we got two from Summit for that.
I have an old Superstock 440 that has been sitting in a garage for 30years.. Really good shape just some stains where the pistons had been sitting.. I was going to try the flex home 320 grit. Do you think this is too fine?
It depends on the level of corrosion. Start there and if it can't knock it down, buy a heavier grit. Another $20 won't break the bank.
Just wondering if you checked your bore taper? If they're not true the dingle ball hone is not your friend.
Admittedly, we didn't. The block was sent over to Tommy's Auto & Machine in Springfield, TN the day after filming. The goal was to show how these can quickly and easily clean up a cylinder.
@@moparconnection I have to admit I wonder why choose a dingle ball over a straight stone type hone in any case. If the bore isn't straight, or is pitted or scored the ball hone will hit all the interior surfaces and clean them up but won't show where problems are or fix them, where a straight stone hone should at least help show where problem areas are if it can't clean them up. My Uncle Harry's early teachings. He hated the dingle ball hones.
I love watching these videos and especially looking forward to everything on the Fury. I'm going to be doing a home build on my own Challenger's engine at some point
Appreciated! I think the ball hone does its job if the cylinder doesn’t need more than a quick clean up. Anything else should go to a machinist.
ridge reamer tool
Yeah
I think it would help to measure the cylinders under the top ridge.
Absolutely! My old bore gauge is sooo out of calibration I used the digital mic's.
If everything looked good and the motor ran fine and your not racing the engine I see no reason to do do more....just wasting your money like Kevin stated. An the block is a 1975 not a 1968-70
This block is a 1978. The casting date is Feb. 1978 and the machine date is March 1978.
@@moparconnection Any block after 1975 is not a block you would want to use as a high performance engine. But they're still a good block!
We're making 668HP and 700 lbs. ft. of torque on a 1976 block in our Charger. We debunked the whole "high nickel casting" myth back at Mopar Muscle ages ago (maybe 2006?). UTG did the same too.
I dont have to get to the end to know youre gonna ruffle some feathers with this practical vid.
Meh. It's a junker 1978 block. We've done more precision builds in other videos.
Nice