Question please.....I followed your tack fuse schedule in F and it worked great....then followed your full fuse schedule and came out with 4 tiny little bubbles in each square....all in the corners...any idea why?? Thank you in advance!
Love this project idea! Thank you for your video. I just recently tried it and had the bubbles in corners of the squares and not centered. I was wondering what your think I may have done differently to causes this?
@@markdiener5233 If the bubbles were all to one side, my guess is that your kiln isn't level. Check that the shelf when sitting in the kiln is level. If not this causes the glass to slump on one side before the other. If the bubbles are not all to one side, and to random sides, I'm honestly not sure what would cause that. I'm very interested to know if they were to one side or all over the place.
@@RocketRoseArt Thanks for your answer! The bubbles are in the corners - most of the square have a bubble in each of the 4 corners, and some just have 1 or 2. The shelf is level. I still like the result, but I will try again sometime. When you made them, were the bubbles all relatively centered?
Hi Desiree. My apologies. Some how I missed your question. Sounds like the glass slumped in the middle of the square first and pushed the bubbles out into the corner. Did you use black stringers and what was the distance between each stringer?
Cheers Jeff, another interesting project. We usually do everything we can to make sure that we eliminate any bubbles during fusing 😂 however on this project they look great.
Hi Ugly. That still seems funny calling you that 😏 But yes, I love this technique. I've got a little project in mind using this but still haven't quite worked it out yet.
Hi Glenda. Sounds like the centre of each square dropped first, pushing the air into the corners. Thinking about it the size of the square may allow the centre to drop first. A light colour stringer may as well. The black softens quicker so the stringers drop before the clear. Sounds like a nice result though. Interesting. 🧐
I’ve shakes also…I had to give up bead making, but look forward to kiln work. For the small movements…try using a wooden tooth pick or there are several dental pics that would work. Can you try this with larger rod for me? I’d love to see it
So the differentparts unite by melting against each other? The fact that they touch, is apparently good enough for a good bond during the full fuse? It sounds so weak or vulnerable, Jeff. But perhaps I have to try it myself.
Keep the joins neat and remember this is a full fuse. I've had this comment a number of times but I have never had any problems doing this. I wouldn't do this with a tack fuse.
Great video !! Explanation was perfect, and I think as a newbie it would be a project that I could accomplish lol !! Thanks for sharing your technique !! 🙏🏻😊
Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed making a small coaster using this technique. I was pleased how it came out. I just have a question. I had a few bubbles that did not form properly. I had a couple of squares which had multiple bubbles that had not formed into a single bubble. Do you have any suggestions to correct this issue. Thank you
Hi Karrie. Not really. Sounds like it worked for the most part. I occasionally get that as well. It's usually close to the edge where the fuse can be a bit unpredictable. Wish I could be more help.
@@RocketRoseArt Question. Instead of multiple firings, could you use a larger clear base glass (to accommodate a single layer of the black border), then use glue to hold the stringers in place and do a single firing?
Love this idea. Have you ever trapped bubbles on irid glass? It makes square bubbles. I saw it as a finished product but I am not sure what way to put the irid glass. Is it face down against the kiln shelf or are the stringers against the irid side in the middle? Would appreciate your help.
Hi Chester. Sorry, but I've never tried this. However, the irid side would need to be on the inside with the bubbles, but probably just on one side. Two irid sides won't fuse together. Though, both sides may be worth trying as the stringers will fuse with the irid, and themselves, and should hold it all together. Worth doing some tests.
Great Video. I have done this technique on a small scale, you explain it very well. The only thing I would like to see is an alternative demonstration to the lap grinder. Many of us do not have a Lap grinder - so actually seeing how you get results with a regular grinder would be helpful. Thanks so much for the video!
@@terrywooten5169 Hi Terry. I'll try and show the use of a spindle grinder in a future video. I'll try to keep it brief though as it can take a while 😁
Hi Patricia. When I looked at it in the kiln I felt it needed that time to complete the fuse. It's one of those things you need to do. Check when at those points where you are trying to achieve a result. I typically always put a hold in that segment and either increase or decrease as needed.
Thank you for sharing a Wonderful creative project! The border takes it to the next level. Bullseye video has similar video - I enjoyed watching the video especially how very well and refined your piece came out. I’m Going to give it a try thank you so much!
I enjoy your tutorials. Thank you! Question-I followed your directions. However, when I put the border on and full fused my bubbles started coming out of the top side of the piece. Anything I can do different?
Very informative and well done. The only comment I have is that I have always been told one cannot place two pieces of glass edges together and get them to completely fuse. I thought we always had to have the base piece larger. Would you explain why you didn’t have to do this? I have done several items, much larger and with random placed stringers as well.
Hi Kathy. That's interesting. Hadn't heard that. On many occasions I have placed pieces together on both top and bottom layers. Have never had a problem, except when I didn't make sure they butted against each other correctly. I'll keep this in mind and keep checking in future. Will let everyone know if things change.
Hi Jeff, great video- lesson. 1 Question: the black borderparts don't have overlap with the square centerpiece (with the bubbles). So with the full fuse, they only touch eachother by the side? Do you use clamps or something to keep the different parts together when fusing it in the kiln?
Hi Carel. For this one I didn't. The side pieces were wide and heavy enough I didn't worry. Under normal circumstances I would. I use pieces of an old kiln shelf that I cut up with a diamond saw as dams. You'll need something that can take the heat so an old kiln shelf is perfect.
I am trying to figure out what sandblaster I should get. I need to know what type of medium you use in the sand blaster and what nozzle you use. Any help would be great.
I use Alox (aluminium oxide) 80 grit. Though I think maybe a finer grit would be better. I'll be trying something like 120 grit next. The nozzle I use is the only one the sandblaster came with. It seems to work fine but I can't give you any other info about that. But a finer and less harsh output would be good I think. It should give a finer finish. With the sandblaster I found I needed a large compressor. I had a smaller one but it couldn't keep up and was running continuously as I was blasting. It takes a while to sandblast a large piece. Check when buying the compressor that it will be able to deliver enough air so it's not running continuously. Hope that helps Diane.
Love this project idea! Thank you for your video. I just recently tried it and had the bubbles in corners of the squares and not centered. I was wondering what your think I may have done differently to causes this?
Hi Mark. This is the third attempt to answer you, so hope it works. If the bubbles are to one side, check the shelf when inside the kiln is level. Rotate the shelf to check all orientations. If it's not level the glass could slump down unevenly pushing the bubbles to the side. If they're random, I'm not sure. Can you tell me how they're oriented?
Hi Jeff! I love your videos. I have a question. I am taking a beginning fused glass class. We did a bubble piece but the instructor said that she did not tack fuse first, and so I did the same pattern you did here on clear/black stringers and glued them on. She said we would full fuse only. Well, it came out with no bubbles. How does that work? I think my class mates even had bubbles in their pieces. Is there a reason why zero bubbles would form in the squares? Thank you!!!
Jeff, My wife and I decided to try this idea with very different results. We were both using 96COE product. Both were done using clear. I used stringers and my wife used flat noodles. The tacking programme was similar, but not the same as yours obviously with a different kiln and COE. Both tacked well but the noodles, being bigger, melted less. Then when we did the full fuse the one with noodles went very well and had a nice large bubble in each aquare. Mine with the stringers only had a couple of bubbles and quite a lot of miniscule bubbles scattered around the square. My thought is that the tackng of the stringers was a tad hot/long and they "overtacked", thus not being high enough to trap sufficient air. Appreciate your thoughts. Also what are your reasons for using Bullseye 90COE as opposed to 96COE. Cheers.
Hi Philip. I think you're right. If they over tacked and flattened too much they'd trap less air. Using noodles is a great idea. Years ago I started working with glass because a local guy was selling off his glass. I didn't have a kiln at the time but had been considering taking it up. So I purchased his glass and it was all 90 COE. So no big decision. In some ways, 96 would have been better, as 90 is not as available here in Australia.
I have seen this bubble technique where it ends up with bubbles in all four corners of each square rather than just one bubble in the middle of each square. Can you explain the difference (size of stringer maybe?)? Thanks
Hi Linda. I've never seen that. Maybe different size stringers. May cause the top sheet to slump in the middle first and thus trap the bubbles in the corners. May have to try that.
@@RocketRoseArt I also did a similar project inspired by a Bullseye video. My bubbles ended up in the corners. I was wondering if it had anything to do with the fact that I glued my stringers but did not tack fuse. Always learning. I enjoy your videos very much!
@@paigelust4108 Another thought. I think if the gap between to stringers is wider the middle will slump easier and the bubbles move to the corners. Also, maybe, glue might gas off and add bubbles.
Would it be possible to add the exterior trim and full fuse it at the same time as you are doing the second fusing instead of firing, grinding and adding it for a third firing?
Hi Jana. I think you're asking if you can add the border when fusing the 2 clear pieces with the stringers together. It is possible, but you may end up with a less neat boundary between the black border and the inner clear bubble grid. I've never done that because I always wanted to square off the sides and grind down the clear feature piece so the width of the edge squares are similar to the others. Worth trying on a test piece.
@@RocketRoseArt I love all of your projects. Thanks! I'm curious if you really need 3 firings... If the stringers are glued into place, can't you just turn them over to create the squares, add the borders and then do ONE full fuse??
@@liedetectiontraining1640 I've never tried it, but have my doubts it would work. But worth a try. When I tack fuse the stringers on that flattens them slightly so that when the 2 pieces are together nothing can move. The other thing is will the joins with the borders work well. Like most things, only a test will provide answers. If you do give it a go it would be great the hear the result.
Hola Dorita. Desde el flotador, creo que está bien, siempre y cuando use vidrio de la misma hoja. Diferentes hojas pueden ser diferentes COE e incompatibles.
@@RocketRoseArt Gracias por contestarme! Si bien está subtitulado tengo algunas dudas: Se puede hacer en dos horneadas, a cuántos grados la primera y a cuántos grados la segunda horneada? Las burbujas se formaron sin usar ningún esmalte solo por colocar los hilos de vidrios (stringers)? Desde ya muchas gracias!
@@doritaarrigo6359 Hola Dorita. Los horarios de disparo para el fusible de tachuela y el fusible completo de la función central están en el video. Las burbujas quedan atrapadas cuando los largueros cruzados se derriten y atrapan una pequeña bolsa de aire. Espero que esto lo explique.
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? ( part : 1/2 ) [โกงไหมครับ ep.89 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Please don't forget to ask any questions or any comments about this technique and video. Would love to have your feedback.
Question please.....I followed your tack fuse schedule in F and it worked great....then followed your full fuse schedule and came out with 4 tiny little bubbles in each square....all in the corners...any idea why?? Thank you in advance!
Love this project idea! Thank you for your video. I just recently tried it and had the bubbles in corners of the squares and not centered. I was wondering what your think I may have done differently to causes this?
@@markdiener5233 If the bubbles were all to one side, my guess is that your kiln isn't level. Check that the shelf when sitting in the kiln is level. If not this causes the glass to slump on one side before the other. If the bubbles are not all to one side, and to random sides, I'm honestly not sure what would cause that. I'm very interested to know if they were to one side or all over the place.
@@RocketRoseArt Thanks for your answer! The bubbles are in the corners - most of the square have a bubble in each of the 4 corners, and some just have 1 or 2. The shelf is level. I still like the result, but I will try again sometime. When you made them, were the bubbles all relatively centered?
Hi Desiree. My apologies. Some how I missed your question. Sounds like the glass slumped in the middle of the square first and pushed the bubbles out into the corner. Did you use black stringers and what was the distance between each stringer?
I really enjoy your channel! Thanks for sharing
You are so welcome!
You make it look soooo easy!
Hi Margie. A lot of mistakes along the way. 😥 And still making them, 😁 thankfully.
Cheers Jeff, another interesting project. We usually do everything we can to make sure that we eliminate any bubbles during fusing 😂 however on this project they look great.
Hi Ugly. That still seems funny calling you that 😏 But yes, I love this technique. I've got a little project in mind using this but still haven't quite worked it out yet.
My first try gave me little bubbles in each of the 4 corners of each square. I assume my stringers were too large. Fun!
Hi Glenda. Sounds like the centre of each square dropped first, pushing the air into the corners. Thinking about it the size of the square may allow the centre to drop first. A light colour stringer may as well. The black softens quicker so the stringers drop before the clear. Sounds like a nice result though. Interesting. 🧐
Thanks!
Thanks Dave. Appreciate your support immensely.
We did this project in our club, & yes I shake as well, so it was challenging but beautiful when completed.
Absolutely! A great technique.
Love the piece with bubbles. Thanks for the video.
Hi Alicia. Me to. It is a great effect.
I’ve shakes also…I had to give up bead making, but look forward to kiln work. For the small movements…try using a wooden tooth pick or there are several dental pics that would work. Can you try this with larger rod for me? I’d love to see it
Hi Elizabeth. Yes, essential shakes are common, unfortunately. I'll add it to my list, but at the moment I don't have thicker stringers.
Nice presentation, clear, and enjoyable.
Thank you Johnella. Really appreciate your feedback.
Love this! gives me so many ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
That was an awesome video. I like the combination of the written instructions together with the video showing technique. Well done.
Hi Trudy. Thanks for your feedback. Glad to help.
Really enjoyed this video. Steps were well-explained and easy to follow. Can't wait to try this! Thank you!
Fantastic. Would love to hear how it goes.
Three of your videos... three Likes. I guess that means it's time to subscribe! Thanks for the informative content.
Hi Brian. It's always great to have some feedback and know they're of help. Welcome.
Wow❣️That was fantastic! You are a wonderful teacher, an inspiration ❣️
Hi Patricia. I'm getting a fat head now. 😁 Just stuck a pin in myself. Bring me back to Earth. 😋 Very happy to help.
🤣
So the differentparts unite by melting against each other? The fact that they touch, is apparently good enough for a good bond during the full fuse? It sounds so weak or vulnerable, Jeff. But perhaps I have to try it myself.
Keep the joins neat and remember this is a full fuse. I've had this comment a number of times but I have never had any problems doing this. I wouldn't do this with a tack fuse.
Very clear video. Looking forward to watching some more from you.
Thanks Wendy. Will do my best to keep them coming.
Great video, Jeff, thank you!
Hi Melissa. Very glad you like it.
wow! You are definitely the best. Thank you!
Thanks Sonia. Not the best I think. But willing to share what I learn.
Great class! Can't wait to try this.
Hi Lara. If you do please let me know how it goes. Don't hesitate to ask any question as well.
Brilliant! Thank you so much!
Glad you liked it Corinne.
Great video !! Explanation was perfect, and I think as a newbie it would be a project that I could accomplish lol !! Thanks for sharing your technique !! 🙏🏻😊
My pleasure.
Another great project! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge.
Thank you Ghislaine.
Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed making a small coaster using this technique. I was pleased how it came out. I just have a question. I had a few bubbles that did not form properly. I had a couple of squares which had multiple bubbles that had not formed into a single bubble. Do you have any suggestions to correct this issue. Thank you
Hi Karrie. Not really. Sounds like it worked for the most part. I occasionally get that as well. It's usually close to the edge where the fuse can be a bit unpredictable. Wish I could be more help.
Beautyfull work and good i like it
Greats from Holland
Hi Ben. Don't know how I missed your comment. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome! Can't wait to try it.
Hi Linda. Hope you enjoy it.
@@RocketRoseArt Question. Instead of multiple firings, could you use a larger clear base glass (to accommodate a single layer of the black border), then use glue to hold the stringers in place and do a single firing?
Love this idea. Have you ever trapped bubbles on irid glass? It makes square bubbles. I saw it as a finished product but I am not sure what way to put the irid glass. Is it face down against the kiln shelf or are the stringers against the irid side in the middle? Would appreciate your help.
Hi Chester. Sorry, but I've never tried this. However, the irid side would need to be on the inside with the bubbles, but probably just on one side. Two irid sides won't fuse together. Though, both sides may be worth trying as the stringers will fuse with the irid, and themselves, and should hold it all together. Worth doing some tests.
Love it!!
Thanks
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks Nancy. My pleasure.
Great Video. I have done this technique on a small scale, you explain it very well. The only thing I would like to see is an alternative demonstration to the lap grinder. Many of us do not have a Lap grinder - so actually seeing how you get results with a regular grinder would be helpful. Thanks so much for the video!
Hi Terry. When you say 'regular grinder', what do you have in mind? Is that something like a spindle grinder, a Glastar?
@@RocketRoseArt yes. Just a regular grinder like Glastar or Inland.
@@terrywooten5169 Hi Terry. I'll try and show the use of a spindle grinder in a future video. I'll try to keep it brief though as it can take a while 😁
Hi Jeff:
Thanks for video!
Question: What size stringer did you use for this project? Looks like .5mm? Or maybe 1 mm?
Hi Dave. They were 1mm.
great video. Did you use 1mm or 2mm stringers? thank you
Hi Cheryl. They were 1mm stringers.
Hi Jeff, the final full fuse, the second segment has a 5 min hold, why is that there? I'm new to fusing, and I'm curious. Thanks!
Hi Patricia. When I looked at it in the kiln I felt it needed that time to complete the fuse. It's one of those things you need to do. Check when at those points where you are trying to achieve a result. I typically always put a hold in that segment and either increase or decrease as needed.
Thank you for sharing a Wonderful creative project! The border takes it to the next level. Bullseye video has similar video - I enjoyed watching the video especially how very well and refined your piece came out. I’m Going to give it a try thank you so much!
Thank you Debbie. Hope it all goes well for you.
I enjoy your tutorials. Thank you!
Question-I followed your directions. However, when I put the border on and full fused my bubbles started coming out of the top side of the piece. Anything I can do different?
Hi Donna. Don't fuse as long. The longer you full fuse the more the bubbles will rise. Smaller bubbles are better. Larger bubbles will surface sooner.
Very informative and well done. The only comment I have is that I have always been told one cannot place two pieces of glass edges together and get them to completely fuse. I thought we always had to have the base piece larger. Would you explain why you didn’t have to do this? I have done several items, much larger and with random placed stringers as well.
Hi Kathy. That's interesting. Hadn't heard that. On many occasions I have placed pieces together on both top and bottom layers. Have never had a problem, except when I didn't make sure they butted against each other correctly. I'll keep this in mind and keep checking in future. Will let everyone know if things change.
Hi Jeff, great video- lesson. 1 Question: the black borderparts don't have overlap with the square centerpiece (with the bubbles). So with the full fuse, they only touch eachother by the side? Do you use clamps or something to keep the different parts together when fusing it in the kiln?
Hi Carel. For this one I didn't. The side pieces were wide and heavy enough I didn't worry. Under normal circumstances I would. I use pieces of an old kiln shelf that I cut up with a diamond saw as dams. You'll need something that can take the heat so an old kiln shelf is perfect.
I am trying to figure out what sandblaster I should get. I need to know what type of medium you use in the sand blaster and what nozzle you use. Any help would be great.
I use Alox (aluminium oxide) 80 grit. Though I think maybe a finer grit would be better. I'll be trying something like 120 grit next. The nozzle I use is the only one the sandblaster came with. It seems to work fine but I can't give you any other info about that. But a finer and less harsh output would be good I think. It should give a finer finish. With the sandblaster I found I needed a large compressor. I had a smaller one but it couldn't keep up and was running continuously as I was blasting. It takes a while to sandblast a large piece. Check when buying the compressor that it will be able to deliver enough air so it's not running continuously. Hope that helps Diane.
Did you use 1mm or 2 mm stringers? Also did you put them on each piece smooth side up? Thank you
Hi Kathy. I was using 1 mm. Smooth side, I think.
Love this project idea! Thank you for your video. I just recently tried it and had the bubbles in corners of the squares and not centered. I was wondering what your think I may have done differently to causes this?
Hi Mark. This is the third attempt to answer you, so hope it works. If the bubbles are to one side, check the shelf when inside the kiln is level. Rotate the shelf to check all orientations. If it's not level the glass could slump down unevenly pushing the bubbles to the side. If they're random, I'm not sure. Can you tell me how they're oriented?
Very cool! !! Thank you! !! I haven't ever used any 3mm glass, would 2mm work as well? Thanx in advance! !!
I think it would. Can't see any problem. Worth trying with a sample piece. Thanks for the comment Cindy.
Hi Jeff! I love your videos. I have a question. I am taking a beginning fused glass class. We did a bubble piece but the instructor said that she did not tack fuse first, and so I did the same pattern you did here on clear/black stringers and glued them on. She said we would full fuse only. Well, it came out with no bubbles. How does that work? I think my class mates even had bubbles in their pieces. Is there a reason why zero bubbles would form in the squares? Thank you!!!
If you did a long bubble squeeze on the way up that may be a cause.
Did the instructor have a comment?
@@RocketRoseArt She said she did not know why mine was the only one with no bubbles. I used the same technique as everyone else.
Were you using darker colours or a different kiln?
Jeff, My wife and I decided to try this idea with very different results. We were both using 96COE product. Both were done using clear. I used stringers and my wife used flat noodles. The tacking programme was similar, but not the same as yours obviously with a different kiln and COE. Both tacked well but the noodles, being bigger, melted less. Then when we did the full fuse the one with noodles went very well and had a nice large bubble in each aquare. Mine with the stringers only had a couple of bubbles and quite a lot of miniscule bubbles scattered around the square. My thought is that the tackng of the stringers was a tad hot/long and they "overtacked", thus not being high enough to trap sufficient air. Appreciate your thoughts. Also what are your reasons for using Bullseye 90COE as opposed to 96COE. Cheers.
Hi Philip. I think you're right. If they over tacked and flattened too much they'd trap less air. Using noodles is a great idea. Years ago I started working with glass because a local guy was selling off his glass. I didn't have a kiln at the time but had been considering taking it up. So I purchased his glass and it was all 90 COE. So no big decision. In some ways, 96 would have been better, as 90 is not as available here in Australia.
Why do you add the black rim not in the 2nd firing?
Hi Petra. Great to hear from you. When I tried this I found that the extra height of the central feature distorted the edges more.
What is the thickness of the stringers?
Hi Margie. They are 1 mm stringers.
I have seen this bubble technique where it ends up with bubbles in all four corners of each square rather than just one bubble in the middle of each square. Can you explain the difference (size of stringer maybe?)? Thanks
Hi Linda. I've never seen that. Maybe different size stringers. May cause the top sheet to slump in the middle first and thus trap the bubbles in the corners. May have to try that.
@@RocketRoseArt I also did a similar project inspired by a Bullseye video. My bubbles ended up in the corners. I was wondering if it had anything to do with the fact that I glued my stringers but did not tack fuse. Always learning. I enjoy your videos very much!
@@paigelust4108 Another thought. I think if the gap between to stringers is wider the middle will slump easier and the bubbles move to the corners. Also, maybe, glue might gas off and add bubbles.
Where can I buy your items?
What items do you mean?
Would it be possible to add the exterior trim and full fuse it at the same time as you are doing the second fusing instead of firing, grinding and adding it for a third firing?
Hi Jana. I think you're asking if you can add the border when fusing the 2 clear pieces with the stringers together. It is possible, but you may end up with a less neat boundary between the black border and the inner clear bubble grid. I've never done that because I always wanted to square off the sides and grind down the clear feature piece so the width of the edge squares are similar to the others. Worth trying on a test piece.
@@RocketRoseArt I love all of your projects. Thanks! I'm curious if you really need 3 firings... If the stringers are glued into place, can't you just turn them over to create the squares, add the borders and then do ONE full fuse??
@@liedetectiontraining1640 I've never tried it, but have my doubts it would work. But worth a try. When I tack fuse the stringers on that flattens them slightly so that when the 2 pieces are together nothing can move. The other thing is will the joins with the borders work well. Like most things, only a test will provide answers. If you do give it a go it would be great the hear the result.
Hola, soy de Argentina, se puede hacer con vidrio float, vidrio de ventana?
Hola Dorita. Desde el flotador, creo que está bien, siempre y cuando use vidrio de la misma hoja. Diferentes hojas pueden ser diferentes COE e incompatibles.
@@RocketRoseArt Gracias por contestarme! Si bien está subtitulado tengo algunas dudas: Se puede hacer en dos horneadas, a cuántos grados la primera y a cuántos grados la segunda horneada? Las burbujas se formaron sin usar ningún esmalte solo por colocar los hilos de vidrios (stringers)? Desde ya muchas gracias!
@@doritaarrigo6359 Hola Dorita. Los horarios de disparo para el fusible de tachuela y el fusible completo de la función central están en el video.
Las burbujas quedan atrapadas cuando los largueros cruzados se derriten y atrapan una pequeña bolsa de aire. Espero que esto lo explique.
@@RocketRoseArt Muchas gracias!