I know it's been years for this video but just in case anyone is watching now. There is a way to put any Toyota Hybrid in service mode where the gas engine will run as if it's not a hybrid. Follow these steps: Hybrid Maintenance Mode 1. Accessories/On position 2. Press Gas pedal all the way 2 times 3. Press the Brake pedal and hold it 4. Put the Car in Neutral 5. Press Gas pedal all the way 2 times 6. Press the Brake pedal and hold it 7. Put the Car in Park 8. Press Gas pedal all the way 2 times 9. Press the Brake pedal and hold it 10. Start the car When you shut off the car it goes out of the maintenance mode
Whenever you do any work on a Prius that requires the engine to stay running without shutting off, you must put the gear shifter in "B" mode. That doesn't allow the hybrid to activate so you can do OBD tests easily. Or you may want the engine to keep running so you can warm the motor oil before changing it. Or you may want the engine running to spray cleaner in the air intake. So many projects require the engine running, so the "B" mode is your secret. And of course the emergency brake has to be fully applied during the "B" mode if the car is still.
On these Prius, if you ever need to keep the gas engine running continuously without it shutting off to go into Hybrid mode, use this procedure. 1. KOEO 2. Depress & release gas pedal 2x 3. Shift and leave in neutral. 4. Depress & release gas 2x again. 5. Shift back to park. 6. Gas 2x again 7. Press brake and start button together. There will then be a message on the screen that reads "maintenance mode". Now the engine will not shut off until you're ready to. Perform the steps quickly with only a second or two in between. You can do this with scan tool also, but this literally takes seconds and comes in handy. Works on these Prius and also the generation before it. Former Toyota technician here, Great work Ivan been following your stuff for a while.
Hello Ivan, I have been watching your videos for about 2 months now, found you through Eric O, I am an old man(61) and the cars I grew up working on are antiques now, like me, I am learning how to work on the modern stuff through guys like you, Thanks. You are a really good teacher, your videos are interesting and informative, have you ever thought about becoming an instructor at a school, you would be great at it. Merry Christmas to you and your Family, thanks for teaching an old dog some new tricks.
+joel mccoin Thanks Joel, glad you are finding the vids helpful :) Yeah engine management technology has come a long way in the last half century for sure. Personally I enjoy working on both carbureted stuff and the fanciest computer-controlled vehicles...keeps you sharp! In either case it still takes a skilled technician with knowledge of the systems to get the car running the best that it can. I wouldn't mind teaching this stuff in a class, as long as the students are willing to learn and ask good questions like everyone here in the comments :) Merry Christmas to you too!
The reason the heater did not come on with the testlight is the computer monitors the heater current and only activates it when it sees the correct resistance on the O2 sensor.This is to protect the internal grounding transistors.The hotter the sensor gets the less the current will flow.
+Tom OConnor Yeah I think this system was pretty smart...conventional systems usually just ground the O2 heater and only monitor for circuit integrity (open or short) but not the specific resistance...
Very informative video and a new scenario with the wideband sensor.Like how it measures the heater current and impedance.The +12 and -12 on the stft saved a lot of hassle with pulling vacuum and adding propane.Bi directional scanners are an absolute must have for the pro along with the scope.Would placing a test light across signal and ground not fry the pcm?Be interesting to see graph from the wideband sensor and an ordinary sensor on the one scope and see the difference.Them Hybrids take some knowing and guess could be tricky to diagnose.The moral behind this video is------First take the vehicle for a decent drive to blow away the cobwebs and then plug in the scanner.
I got the same color prius it drives good and never had an issue with it so far with basic maintenance. With those hybrids if you don't drive them on the highway from time to time the car does take a nose dive in efficiency. The other thing with that car is that the egr system is very dirty I only discovered this when I took off my intake at 50K miles it was crusty sooty so I busted out the compressed air and brake cleaner, not good for plastics but did the job, So the reason your o2 might of gone out of spec was because the sensor got dirty but I also read your comment about the wire chaffing. I will have to check mine for that condition too. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I guess none of you viewers have ever left a dog in the car alone! Steering wheel condition is a non issue compared to an engine code problem. That said, your video is excellent considering you made it all alone with no helper. I also appreciate your detailed explanation and thorough approach in trying to find the cause of the problem. I only wish I had a repair mechanic in my area that is as thorough and straight forward as you. Good Job on this one and I'm looking forward to your future videos. Very educational!
I also had the code for the rear sensor. Replaced it to no avail. It was actually the front AFR sensor that was bad. Makes sense, the front sensor gets much hotter than the rear. The front sensor is 10X more difficult to replace. Must remove front plastic shield below the windshield. I tried many sensor sockets but the walls must be very thin, because the sensor has a heat shield. Ending up using a grinder to reduce the thickness of the socket. The best sensor socket is made by Snap-On. It's 4x the price at $40 but is shorter in length to fit and has very thin walls as well.. Snap-On is the only way to go. You can cut the old sensor wires and use a regular 7/8" socket to remove but you need the Snap-On to properly install.
I'm also having a situation similar to yours. I am getting a code for downstream sensor, I changed it to new one and same code remains. So did you only get a code for rear and not the front AFR?
Thanks for the video, lots of great info there. Just ran across this on a 2013, both codes were stored in history with a no start, or not "ready" concern. visual inspection showed that the B1S2 O2 Sensor had become a meal for a small woodland creature. replaced sensor and retested, okay.
I know this is an old video and I'm not sure if it was mentioned in the comments. The Prius has a "Maintenance Mode" you can activate so the vehicle runs on engine power only. This procedure can be easily found online.
Great video Ivan. the equivalent of that Toyota in my line if work is repairing a GE Harmony washer and dryer. the 2 are connected via serial cable. the washer informs the dryer of what kind of wash load it will be receiving. it's complicated but you always get through it. thanks for the sharing you do.
+Randy Gudeahn (ProTech) Hey Randy, so do you use scan tools to diagnose appliances nowadays? I know the heat pump in my home has a self-diagnosing capability...a few years ago it threw an "outdoor temp sensor" fault. Good thing it was a replaceable part, but available only from the dealer lol
+motoYam82 I just use my Fieldpiece multimeter and schematics on the toughbook. Most new appliances have on board diagnostics as well as toggle on and off for certain parts.
Ivan! Why did you think a Prius was broken? How many times do I have to tell you Toyotas don't break!!! If you upload another Toyota video I'm hoppin across the pond and giving you a damned stern look! Seriously though, great video, I think you nailed it with the "needed a cruise" diagnosis. The rich/lean test is on most Toyotas, not just hybrid, it's a great feature for diagnosis. There is a procedure to force the engine to run constantly. It's called maintenance mode. Should be on Google. If you can't find it I can email you the procedure if you like.
+Toyota Tech Thanks ToyotaTech, great tips! Yeah I was kind of surprised to see a "ECM Performance"code on a Toyota...usually the only thing that goes wrong on them is O2 sensors and EVAP valves!
+Toyota Tech Only one problem with the Hybrids TT...by the time they get passed down the ownership chain to the guy who can least afford repair bills..well, that's the 'victim' who gets lumbered with the big $$ to replace the battery. It's a bit like playin pass the parcel with aged hybrids !.Here in Oz that's 4.5K, may be cheaper in US/UK.Just saying. Cheers
Nice diagnostics Ivan and good thing that you held up and not changed out the O2 sensor. I was wondering...Shouldn't the O2 sensor heater circuit start working went the engine is first started and maybe continue to work afterwards. I suspect that when you were up around the PCM that maybe some oxidation was on the heater control pin since it seems to work now. Good video Ivan and glad to see that you didn't have to change any part. Take care Ivan...
hi am 65 and i am also a mechanic i own a 2012 venza 2.7 the car is not driven very hard i bought it new it has 30000 miles on it it also brings the same codes today but every know and then it would bring up code po138.02 i would just clear it so i did not think there was to much wrong because the car worked good so after watching this video i went for a test drive and gave her a good hard run car works the same as your toyota she works perfect thankyou no check engine lights i never would have thought to do that that must be a common problem for toyotas have a nice day
I eventually did replace the downstream O2 sensor. Turns out the wires were chaffed through and intermittently shorting out on a factory bracket right near the sensor. Thanks for the comment!
I'm thinking your calculation of total circuit resistance with the test light is incorrect. Best I could tell from the video is that you had your test light attached in PARALLEL with the heater element in the circuit. Total resistance in a circuit is additive for resistances in SERIES. Resistances in parallel are actually lower than the algebraic sum of their individual values. In parallel circuits, total resistance R= 1/((1/r1) + (1/r2)) For example, for two 100 ohm resistances in series, total resistance is 200 ohms. Total for these same two resistances in parallel is 50 ohms.
Realize the vid is Methuselah-aged according to current Internet standards but came across it while resolving P0607 and P0138 codes on my Corolla. For me, the codes were due to a clogged AC/heater drain line dripping onto the connector and shorting it out. If floorboards are wet, pull up the carpet on the passenger front side and find the drain hose. If you pull it from the bottom end and it doesn't drain, disconnect it from the console end and snake it. Disconnect the o2 connector on the driver's side and let it dry out.
Hey, I have the same error codes, but the downstream sensor connector was dry, i pulled the carpet on passenger side and pulled drain pipe, but it was all dry...I replaced upstream AF sensor already and it did not fix the issue. Resistance check showed OK reading (3ohm upstream, 13ohm downstream)
Hey Ivan, I am running into P0138 and P0607 code on a 2011 Corolla. I don't have advanced scan tools, but I checked resistance of downstream sensor (~13 ohm) and upstream AF sensor (~3 ohm). I checked the connectors for dryness. Many people said it has to be upstream AF, so I replaced it yesterday. Cleared the codes with a cheap OBD scanner but I still had permanent 138 and 607 stuck on. Done the manual reset procedure by idling for 20 seconds, driving at 40kmh+ for 10 minutes, stopping and idling for another 20 three times. When I parked at home and cycled engine fourth time, permanent codes cleared but showed a pending 607. Today both 138 and 607 permanent codes kicked in again. This might be a wild guess, but I noticed that these errors would come randomly depending if the weather is humid or not. When it was dry, hot weather, they would come on less often. I have no clue what should I look for or do to fix it, or at least keep the damn errors off for long enough to pass inspection. I read somewhere it could be even a head gasket issue which I pray it is not. EDIT: So I took car out again, 138 was gone but still showed MIL 607 pending freeze frame and permanent. Once I got home and cycled engine, permanent was gone but Freeze Frame 607 was left. I cleared it and hopefully both errors were "ghosts" from replacing upstream sensor yesterday. EDIT2: Codes came back, going to replace O2 sensor now.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks for reply. From my findings, many said that replacing downstream does not fix it. The upstream controls mixture while downstream checks for rich/lean. If upstream has intermittent or stuck problem, it may trip B1S2 downstream. T-SB-0065-10 engine 2ZR-FE 5MT. I can't verify the voltage/impendance as per TSB, but will keep posted if code returns.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Hey, I replaced downstream and so far all is well. Thanks for the tips. While going OEM is best, I got both sensors from Aliexpress (JESBAN store) and they are identical. Even came with anti-seize coating pre-applied to threads. Cost me ~35USD shipped vs $90+ for an OEM Denso. My feeling is that for some of the older cars, Denso does not stock sensors locally and sources them from China anyways, so the extra cost of express shipping plus markup contributes to high local price. I've seen other models of OEM Denso sensors go locally on Amazon for ~35, so for certain cars it is definitely a better option. In the past, I've put a MAF chinese replacement in my A4B7 and it was perfectly fine for the time I've had the car. Note that I did have VAGCOM with VCDS to monitor
Hello! Good job. I own a 2007 toyota corolla which was running fine till recently goes into limp mode when i drive out on evenings. The codes i get after scan is p0606 and p0607.
great stuff Ivan it goes to show you that we sometimes underestimate snapons diagnostic software , its not the best but its sure worth every penny invested
Hmm I was hoping this would help me. I'm working on a 2005 toyota prius, came in with a code for upstream o2 sensor, i tested resistance and it was out of spec so i replaced it. now im getting P0137 downstream o2 output voltage low. its just like yours, it will only read 0.01-0.07, spec is 0.1-0.9v. I do have voltage for heater circuit but im thinking the amperage might be low, so im going to backprobe and hook up a scope like u did. This car has 244k and it is driven in city and extended periods on highway, so unfortunately no cob webs in my case. As for toyota's breaking, they do, although u usually have to get them over 200k, and the HV batteries do fail, the worst thing for them is if they sit for long periods (6 months to a year) especially over a winter. I just diagnosed one the other day, only 111k, new owner, old owner must've let it sit, one cell inside a module reversed polarity, its easy to see because it will show up on open circuit voltage 1.0-1.4v lower than the other blocks. I seen one fail at 145k, single owner never sat, same thing one cell reversed, 1.2v lower than the rest. In my experience 90% of HV batteries last at least to 200k. The dealers won't share information of how many packs they replace under warranty, but I know it happens somewhat frequently, like 10% or less.
+Garlin Willingham Yeah I should have fired up the Verus from the very beginning! I figured the Autel would have the same factory data available, but the firmware to communicate with this model must have been left "incomplete" lol
Thank you for the great video! I'm trying to figure out if the downstream O2 sensor has any influence on fuel trims. My short term fuel trim B1S2 is at 99.2% just like this Prius, so I'm suspecting that's a default value. I've got a P0171 and P0037. B1S2 O2 sensor is known bad. Could P0171 be an effect of bad downstream O2?
p0171 could more be a vacumm leak I need to start making videos of what to do and how to help others Out to ignore people’s questions like this dude does
If just a driver problem, can't you format or remove and reinstall the driver inside the ECM, or format the whole ECM and reinstall new program in it, you know like we do in a regular computer or laptop if something happens like that.
Interesting video I couldn’t believe how much data was available for the test results, was that the computer you used or did the Prius provide the data for the testing?
Hi Ivan after seeing you and Eric O using the Autel I bought their little AL100 Bluetooth fob. It calls the ECM the same S07E8 I see on your tool. Do you know what it means? Also for my Chevy truck it has two other choices and they have less PIDs.
hi guys. bravo Ivan. Cool video and best knowladge . bat there ise one big NO. all P0607 foult code comes from Air filter dirty condition. anyone traid to replace it?. also code ,,p0607 powertrain . controle module performance" in description a P0607 could be caused by one or more of of the following:1.Loose ground terminal on PCM/ECM. 2. Dead or defective (12V main) battery. 3. An open or short in the power or ground circuit Loose or corroded. 4.battery terminals Failed PCM/ECM.
one way to make the gas engine running all the time is..hit the power botton twice,the than gas pedal 2 time,brake put it on neutral,gas pedal twice,then on park again gas pedal 2 time.it will check mode.will be a red light on dash.this way can check no worrys about going in to hibrid..
If you read through the comments like I have. He ended up replacing the Downstream O2 sensor. Make sure you use an official OEM Denso O2 sensor and not a China knockoff
Why would the current through the test light be the same as the amperage through the combined resistance? Wouldn't some current be going through the heater?
Both heater circuits r pwm circuits. Upstream needs to start working quickly. Downstream needs mostly to monitor cat. It would seem a better test of heaters would to ohm when disconnected. When connected, the frequency of the computer originated ground is going to b obscuring resistance reading. When testing sensor signal, I noticed u sent 12 volts to the signal wire. Was that thru a high impedance test light or incandescent light. If an incandescent, shouldn't there b some caution with that procedure? After all, the most that circuit could ever c is 1 volt, right?
+Bill Rimmer Hi Bill! Sure, to check the heater itself, the ohm check is usually the fastest and most efficient way to do that. This one measured within spec (should have shown it on camera...oops!) In this case however, I was more worried about the driver in the PCM, having that P0607 code instead of a regular open circuit code... And no worries about damaging the PCM with a regular test light. If you noticed, the P0138 code description actually mentioned a direct short to battery voltage as a possible cause! The engineers thought that scenario through :)
Hello Ivan. What software version is installed on your Verus? Working on european mostly, I often resort to Snap-on for confirmation. It wont work most of the time but when it works it is much more accurate than iScan2, which can send you barking up the wrong tree all day long. Thank You
If I believe correctly, most Toyotas from this century use AFR sensors rather than O2 sensors, meaning that the voltages won't "switch" but rather slowly increase and decrease as the mixture changes. Am I wrong?
Hi Ivan, At 23 minutes you figured the total resistance of the light and O2 heater @75ohms, aren't they in parallel not series? I don't know if anyone else has pointed this out.
How much do you charge for the time you put in these kinds of cars that seem to fix themselves? I'm curious because it's not fair to spend your time for free. However, what do you tell the customer when they pick it up?
i have a 04 Toyota Prius , i just had the Hybrid battery rebuilt by the collage here , i was hoping it would fix another problem i am having . The problem is some times the Speedometer works sometimes it does not ,neither do any of the gauges . when its a hot sunny day they work . i have ran a scan for any codes none come up ? i am hoping it is not the speedometer that is a intensive job , could the Ecu computer be causing the problem also the backup cam is out ,,
This code basically means that the programminging the PCM/ECM (powertrain/engine control module) has failed. This can be a more serious code and may also be refered to as "ECM Internal Circuit Malfunction. BUT ALL THIS AND OTHER INFORMATUON IS ALL BLAFFFF. PLEASE REPLACE AIR FILTER . PRICE IS 5 EURO. AND ALL P0607 FOULT CODES WILL BE AUTOMATICALY CLEARED.
This was my thought too. I did recently have reason to be inside the computer jack on a F-150 and noted some liquid of sorts in there, wasn't antifreeze for sure but just what it was I could not determine. Anyway, a few shots of brake cleaner and air hose got it all out of there and WD-40 going back together and engine light has been off ever since, kind of unusual for that one too.
Petrol engines need to be run on a highway cycle once in awhile to blow out the carbon. There are some shops up here that will run seafoam through the engine to clean them out, I personally wouldn't do that on a newer vehicle as the result may clog up something else. Once a week just drive your vehicle to highway speed, and getting up to highway speed give it the beans. You don't have to go to redline. God bless.
does toyota not offer a heater control for a bi directional control? where you can just turn it on instead of driving it and waiting for it while scoped
Hi Ivan. Quick question. I just bought an actron 9575 to read codes on a '06 Cad STS. I am trying to unplug the tool from the car. It feels like it is latched and won't come loose! Is there a trick to getting it out? BTW I got a P0174. Any ideas? Thanks.
+kuruji Bank 2 lean...of course start by looking at O2 signals and fuel trims under various loads. That Actron should point you in the right direction no sweat!
+kuruji I have used a few actrons in my line of work, and what we do is to cut the little tab off from the channel. It will stay put without that locking tab and let you remove it just as easily as it went on.
+motoYam82 Thanks for the response Ivan. I now have a dilemna. The upstream O2s are both fixed low at .04V, while the downstreams are slowly varying between .4V-.7V. The STFTs are slightly neg -3-4, LTFTs are a bit high +5 on #1, +10 on #2. It goes into Closed Loop quickly after starting. Seems like the downstream O2s are controlling the trim.
update also replace air filter even if it does not look dirty that is it your Toyota should work like new this works on all models with codes po607 and po138
that was the problem to begin with you see the o2 sensor is just a messenger and code 607 is telling you it is low performance so do not shot the messenger or replace them all that was wrong was a restricted air filter causing a rich fuel mix that is what bank 1 sensor 2 is telling us please research this all it cost me to fix my Toyota was the cost of a new air filter save yourself hundreds of dollars by the way all dealerships are dishonest they just want your money have a merry xmass a good new year thankyou
I have same codes for my 2013 corolla. It runs just fine and I am sure it don't have any problem. 5 months back I changed oil at oil stop and they changed air filter. I suspect it might be wrong type of filter. Could it be the issue really?
I wonder if this is what it is happening to my toyota corolla 09. Both P0607 and P0138 codes came on thought it was the Oxygen sensor so I replaced it but engine light came back on after resetting it. Im lost lol
@@djentyman4002 could be sensor 1 bad causing sensor 2 code..Toyota issued a fix for this....the fix.....replace both O2 sensors...something in ecm is programmed wrong....there is a video online a Toyota tech posted for P0138 code fix.
update i added some lucus injector cleaner and took her out for a good run the shit that came out of the exhaust was incredable that was all that was wrong she works like new
Toyota s have a problem water getting in heater boxes and gets water all over Control modules. Quick fix clear out heater box drain and clean out o2 sensor wire to controller
Ali Abdallah you do realize that the small engine in the prius is mainly there to act as a generator for when the hybrid battery needs to charge, right? It wouldn’t make sense to have a v8 in a hybrid
I know it's been years for this video but just in case anyone is watching now. There is a way to put any Toyota Hybrid in service mode where the gas engine will run as if it's not a hybrid. Follow these steps:
Hybrid Maintenance Mode
1. Accessories/On position
2. Press Gas pedal all the way 2 times
3. Press the Brake pedal and hold it
4. Put the Car in Neutral
5. Press Gas pedal all the way 2 times
6. Press the Brake pedal and hold it
7. Put the Car in Park
8. Press Gas pedal all the way 2 times
9. Press the Brake pedal and hold it
10. Start the car
When you shut off the car it goes out of the maintenance mode
Whenever you do any work on a Prius that requires the engine to stay running without shutting off, you must put the gear shifter in "B" mode. That doesn't allow the hybrid to activate so you can do OBD tests easily. Or you may want the engine to keep running so you can warm the motor oil before changing it. Or you may want the engine running to spray cleaner in the air intake. So many projects require the engine running, so the "B" mode is your secret. And of course the emergency brake has to be fully applied during the "B" mode if the car is still.
Appreciated seeing the thorough and methodical approach to set up isolated verifiable checks. Well done.
On these Prius, if you ever need to keep the gas engine running continuously without it shutting off to go into Hybrid mode, use this procedure.
1. KOEO
2. Depress & release gas pedal 2x
3. Shift and leave in neutral.
4. Depress & release gas 2x again.
5. Shift back to park.
6. Gas 2x again
7. Press brake and start button together.
There will then be a message on the screen that reads "maintenance mode". Now the engine will not shut off until you're ready to. Perform the steps quickly with only a second or two in between. You can do this with scan tool also, but this literally takes seconds and comes in handy. Works on these Prius and also the generation before it. Former Toyota technician here, Great work Ivan been following your stuff for a while.
Good information to know. Does this work on other hybrid Toyotas also?
Yes it does. Last year as a Toyota tech was 2017 and up until then it still worked on all the hybrid models at that time.
Hello Ivan, I have been watching your videos for about 2 months now, found you through Eric O, I am an old man(61) and the cars I grew up working on are antiques now, like me, I am learning how to work on the modern stuff through guys like you, Thanks. You are a really good teacher, your videos are interesting and informative, have you ever thought about becoming an instructor at a school, you would be great at it. Merry Christmas to you and your Family, thanks for teaching an old dog some new tricks.
+joel mccoin Thanks Joel, glad you are finding the vids helpful :) Yeah engine management technology has come a long way in the last half century for sure. Personally I enjoy working on both carbureted stuff and the fanciest computer-controlled vehicles...keeps you sharp! In either case it still takes a skilled technician with knowledge of the systems to get the car running the best that it can.
I wouldn't mind teaching this stuff in a class, as long as the students are willing to learn and ask good questions like everyone here in the comments :)
Merry Christmas to you too!
Sorry but it was sold last night at 8 om
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I guess nobody expressed any desire in your teaching skills over the last 7 years? hmmmm
The reason the heater did not come on with the testlight is the computer monitors the heater current and only activates it when it sees the correct resistance on the O2 sensor.This is to protect the internal grounding transistors.The hotter the sensor gets the less the current will flow.
+Tom OConnor Yeah I think this system was pretty smart...conventional systems usually just ground the O2 heater and only monitor for circuit integrity (open or short) but not the specific resistance...
Very informative video and a new scenario with the wideband sensor.Like how it measures the heater current and impedance.The +12 and -12 on the stft saved a lot of hassle with pulling vacuum and adding propane.Bi directional scanners are an absolute must have for the pro along with the scope.Would placing a test light across signal and ground not fry the pcm?Be interesting to see graph from the wideband sensor and an ordinary sensor on the one scope and see the difference.Them Hybrids take some knowing and guess could be tricky to diagnose.The moral behind this video is------First take the vehicle for a decent drive to blow away the cobwebs and then plug in the scanner.
+Tom OConnor Definitely plug in the scanner BEFORE taking it on a test drive...or you might miss the magic moment of self-healing!
I got the same color prius it drives good and never had an issue with it so far with basic maintenance. With those hybrids if you don't drive them on the highway from time to time the car does take a nose dive in efficiency. The other thing with that car is that the egr system is very dirty I only discovered this when I took off my intake at 50K miles it was crusty sooty so I busted out the compressed air and brake cleaner, not good for plastics but did the job, So the reason your o2 might of gone out of spec was because the sensor got dirty but I also read your comment about the wire chaffing. I will have to check mine for that condition too. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I guess none of you viewers have ever left a dog in the car alone! Steering wheel condition is a non issue compared to an engine code problem.
That said, your video is excellent considering you made it all alone with no helper.
I also appreciate your detailed explanation and thorough approach in trying to find the cause of the problem.
I only wish I had a repair mechanic in my area that is as thorough and straight forward as you.
Good Job on this one and I'm looking forward to your future videos.
Very educational!
+Rick B Thanks, Rick!
I also had the code for the rear sensor. Replaced it to no avail. It was actually the front AFR sensor that was bad. Makes sense, the front sensor gets much hotter than the rear. The front sensor is 10X more difficult to replace. Must remove front plastic shield below the windshield. I tried many sensor sockets but the walls must be very thin, because the sensor has a heat shield. Ending up using a grinder to reduce the thickness of the socket. The best sensor socket is made by Snap-On. It's 4x the price at $40 but is shorter in length to fit and has very thin walls as well.. Snap-On is the only way to go. You can cut the old sensor wires and use a regular 7/8" socket to remove but you need the Snap-On to properly install.
I'm also having a situation similar to yours. I am getting a code for downstream sensor, I changed it to new one and same code remains. So did you only get a code for rear and not the front AFR?
Yes, no code for the front but it was bad. Makes sense, the front sensor gets really hot while the rear is much cooler.
Thanks for the video, lots of great info there. Just ran across this on a 2013, both codes were stored in history with a no start, or not "ready" concern. visual inspection showed that the B1S2 O2 Sensor had become a meal for a small woodland creature. replaced sensor and retested, okay.
Another great video Ivan. A pleasure to watch and learn from as always.
I know this is an old video and I'm not sure if it was mentioned in the comments. The Prius has a "Maintenance Mode" you can activate so the vehicle runs on engine power only. This procedure can be easily found online.
Great video Ivan. the equivalent of that Toyota in my line if work is repairing a GE Harmony washer and dryer. the 2 are connected via serial cable. the washer informs the dryer of what kind of wash load it will be receiving. it's complicated but you always get through it. thanks for the sharing you do.
+Randy Gudeahn (ProTech) Hey Randy, so do you use scan tools to diagnose appliances nowadays? I know the heat pump in my home has a self-diagnosing capability...a few years ago it threw an "outdoor temp sensor" fault. Good thing it was a replaceable part, but available only from the dealer lol
+motoYam82 I just use my Fieldpiece multimeter and schematics on the toughbook. Most new appliances have on board diagnostics as well as toggle on and off for certain parts.
Great diagnosis and fix !
Customer needs to make a road trip more often !
Customer needs to take some food along a long trip too,so he doesn't need to eat his steering wheel !
+netsrac cjf
lol
netsrac cjf customer needs to buy something that isn't a pos Prius.
Ivan! Why did you think a Prius was broken? How many times do I have to tell you Toyotas don't break!!! If you upload another Toyota video I'm hoppin across the pond and giving you a damned stern look!
Seriously though, great video, I think you nailed it with the "needed a cruise" diagnosis. The rich/lean test is on most Toyotas, not just hybrid, it's a great feature for diagnosis. There is a procedure to force the engine to run constantly. It's called maintenance mode. Should be on Google. If you can't find it I can email you the procedure if you like.
Thank u Toyota Tech!!
I am in Los Angeles., Toyota Tech might ask where across the pond is?
+Toyota Tech Thanks ToyotaTech, great tips! Yeah I was kind of surprised to see a "ECM Performance"code on a Toyota...usually the only thing that goes wrong on them is O2 sensors and EVAP valves!
+Bill Rimmer The UK Bill.
+Toyota Tech Only one problem with the Hybrids TT...by the time they get passed down the ownership chain to the guy who can least afford repair bills..well, that's the 'victim' who gets lumbered with the big $$ to replace the battery. It's a bit like playin pass the parcel with aged hybrids !.Here in Oz that's 4.5K, may be cheaper in US/UK.Just saying. Cheers
Nice diagnostics Ivan and good thing that you held up and not changed out the O2 sensor. I was wondering...Shouldn't the O2 sensor heater circuit start working went the engine is first started and maybe continue to work afterwards. I suspect that when you were up around the PCM that maybe some oxidation was on the heater control pin since it seems to work now. Good video Ivan and glad to see that you didn't have to change any part. Take care Ivan...
hi am 65 and i am also a mechanic i own a 2012 venza 2.7 the car is not driven very hard i bought it new it has 30000 miles on it it also brings the same codes today but every know and then it would bring up code po138.02 i would just clear it so i did not think there was to much wrong because the car worked good so after watching this video i went for a test drive and gave her a good hard run car works the same as your toyota she works perfect thankyou no check engine lights i never would have thought to do that that must be a common problem for toyotas have a nice day
I eventually did replace the downstream O2 sensor. Turns out the wires were chaffed through and intermittently shorting out on a factory bracket right near the sensor. Thanks for the comment!
I'm thinking your calculation of total circuit resistance with the test light is incorrect. Best I could tell from the video is that you had your test light attached in PARALLEL with the heater element in the circuit. Total resistance in a circuit is additive for resistances in SERIES. Resistances in parallel are actually lower than the algebraic sum of their individual values. In parallel circuits, total resistance R= 1/((1/r1) + (1/r2))
For example, for two 100 ohm resistances in series, total resistance is 200 ohms. Total for these same two resistances in parallel is 50 ohms.
Realize the vid is Methuselah-aged according to current Internet standards but came across it while resolving P0607 and P0138 codes on my Corolla. For me, the codes were due to a clogged AC/heater drain line dripping onto the connector and shorting it out. If floorboards are wet, pull up the carpet on the passenger front side and find the drain hose. If you pull it from the bottom end and it doesn't drain, disconnect it from the console end and snake it. Disconnect the o2 connector on the driver's side and let it dry out.
Hey, I have the same error codes, but the downstream sensor connector was dry, i pulled the carpet on passenger side and pulled drain pipe, but it was all dry...I replaced upstream AF sensor already and it did not fix the issue. Resistance check showed OK reading (3ohm upstream, 13ohm downstream)
Hey Ivan, I am running into P0138 and P0607 code on a 2011 Corolla. I don't have advanced scan tools, but I checked resistance of downstream sensor (~13 ohm) and upstream AF sensor (~3 ohm). I checked the connectors for dryness. Many people said it has to be upstream AF, so I replaced it yesterday. Cleared the codes with a cheap OBD scanner but I still had permanent 138 and 607 stuck on. Done the manual reset procedure by idling for 20 seconds, driving at 40kmh+ for 10 minutes, stopping and idling for another 20 three times. When I parked at home and cycled engine fourth time, permanent codes cleared but showed a pending 607. Today both 138 and 607 permanent codes kicked in again.
This might be a wild guess, but I noticed that these errors would come randomly depending if the weather is humid or not. When it was dry, hot weather, they would come on less often.
I have no clue what should I look for or do to fix it, or at least keep the damn errors off for long enough to pass inspection.
I read somewhere it could be even a head gasket issue which I pray it is not.
EDIT: So I took car out again, 138 was gone but still showed MIL 607 pending freeze frame and permanent. Once I got home and cycled engine, permanent was gone but Freeze Frame 607 was left. I cleared it and hopefully both errors were "ghosts" from replacing upstream sensor yesterday.
EDIT2: Codes came back, going to replace O2 sensor now.
Why did you replace the upstream sensor? P0138 is for downstream sensor 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks for reply. From my findings, many said that replacing downstream does not fix it. The upstream controls mixture while downstream checks for rich/lean. If upstream has intermittent or stuck problem, it may trip B1S2 downstream. T-SB-0065-10 engine 2ZR-FE 5MT. I can't verify the voltage/impendance as per TSB, but will keep posted if code returns.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No dice. P0138 and P607 came back. Will be replacing the O2 sensor next 🙄
@@jacobd3290 just did a 2010 Prius yesterday with the same codes. Replace downstream sensor. Denso OEM only!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Hey, I replaced downstream and so far all is well. Thanks for the tips. While going OEM is best, I got both sensors from Aliexpress (JESBAN store) and they are identical. Even came with anti-seize coating pre-applied to threads. Cost me ~35USD shipped vs $90+ for an OEM Denso. My feeling is that for some of the older cars, Denso does not stock sensors locally and sources them from China anyways, so the extra cost of express shipping plus markup contributes to high local price. I've seen other models of OEM Denso sensors go locally on Amazon for ~35, so for certain cars it is definitely a better option.
In the past, I've put a MAF chinese replacement in my A4B7 and it was perfectly fine for the time I've had the car. Note that I did have VAGCOM with VCDS to monitor
Hello! Good job. I own a 2007 toyota corolla which was running fine till recently goes into limp mode when i drive out on evenings. The codes i get after scan is p0606 and p0607.
great stuff Ivan
it goes to show you that we sometimes underestimate snapons diagnostic software , its not the best but its sure worth every penny invested
So Ivan you were correct Toyota's don't go wrong.....
Awesome! I have the same van, same year, same problem! Thank you for your effort! This should save me a buttload of time!
Hmm I was hoping this would help me. I'm working on a 2005 toyota prius, came in with a code for upstream o2 sensor, i tested resistance and it was out of spec so i replaced it. now im getting P0137 downstream o2 output voltage low. its just like yours, it will only read 0.01-0.07, spec is 0.1-0.9v. I do have voltage for heater circuit but im thinking the amperage might be low, so im going to backprobe and hook up a scope like u did. This car has 244k and it is driven in city and extended periods on highway, so unfortunately no cob webs in my case. As for toyota's breaking, they do, although u usually have to get them over 200k, and the HV batteries do fail, the worst thing for them is if they sit for long periods (6 months to a year) especially over a winter. I just diagnosed one the other day, only 111k, new owner, old owner must've let it sit, one cell inside a module reversed polarity, its easy to see because it will show up on open circuit voltage 1.0-1.4v lower than the other blocks. I seen one fail at 145k, single owner never sat, same thing one cell reversed, 1.2v lower than the rest. In my experience 90% of HV batteries last at least to 200k. The dealers won't share information of how many packs they replace under warranty, but I know it happens somewhat frequently, like 10% or less.
Good Call and good video. The Snapon software really helped on that diagnosis.
+Garlin Willingham Yeah I should have fired up the Verus from the very beginning! I figured the Autel would have the same factory data available, but the firmware to communicate with this model must have been left "incomplete" lol
Thank you for the great video! I'm trying to figure out if the downstream O2 sensor has any influence on fuel trims. My short term fuel trim B1S2 is at 99.2% just like this Prius, so I'm suspecting that's a default value. I've got a P0171 and P0037. B1S2 O2 sensor is known bad. Could P0171 be an effect of bad downstream O2?
p0171 could more be a vacumm leak
I need to start making videos of what to do and how to help others
Out to ignore people’s questions like this dude does
If just a driver problem, can't you format or remove and reinstall the driver inside the ECM, or format the whole ECM and reinstall new program in it, you know like we do in a regular computer or laptop if something happens like that.
Great diagnostic video , i am beginning to look at operational mode strategy when things don't add up what do you think .
wow, toyotas are so good that they break down if you DON'T drive them!
Interesting video I couldn’t believe how much data was available for the test results, was that the computer you used or did the Prius provide the data for the testing?
Buddy you did a great job. My sister in law 09 Corolla have the same code let me try this hope fully it will fix the problem. Thanks.
Hi Ivan after seeing you and Eric O using the Autel I bought their little AL100 Bluetooth fob. It calls the ECM the same S07E8 I see on your tool. Do you know what it means? Also for my Chevy truck it has two other choices and they have less PIDs.
Hi could it be that there was a bad contact on the B1 S2 since you disconnected the harness connector ?
hi guys. bravo Ivan. Cool video and best knowladge . bat there ise one big NO. all P0607 foult code comes from Air filter dirty condition. anyone traid to replace it?. also code ,,p0607 powertrain . controle module performance" in description a P0607 could be caused by one or more of of the following:1.Loose ground terminal on PCM/ECM. 2. Dead or defective (12V main) battery. 3. An open or short in the power or ground circuit Loose or corroded. 4.battery terminals Failed PCM/ECM.
I just have a code on my 2010 Toyota Prius P0607 and P0138, should I replaced the downstream and that’ll fix the problem?
What model of Autel is that? There are so many different ones. I got the Innova 7111 SDS any opinions on that?
one way to make the gas engine running all the time is..hit the power botton twice,the than gas pedal 2 time,brake put it on neutral,gas pedal twice,then on park again gas pedal 2 time.it will check mode.will be a red light on dash.this way can check no worrys about going in to hibrid..
Who uses a 2010 Prius to putz around on a farm? Good case study!
If you read through the comments like I have. He ended up replacing the Downstream O2 sensor. Make sure you use an official OEM Denso O2 sensor and not a China knockoff
thank you good info mine was on and i put in seafoam, filled the tank and drove a good 50 mi the light went out
Did someone bite and chewed that steering wheel? Lol
A dog left in the car will do that.
+LCCharlie You mean the owner? LOL
+Andrea Gili just a result of a psychotic car owner. I've seen these plenty of times from owners with compulsive Anxiety disorders.
You have too chew steering wheel when entering a highway lol
Looks like someone got hungry waiting in traffic. 😁 (Steering wheel) 😂
Why would the current through the test light be the same as the amperage through the combined resistance? Wouldn't some current be going through the heater?
there's a permanent ground on the connector or not, the manual prius does not show a permanent one
Both heater circuits r pwm circuits. Upstream needs to start working quickly. Downstream needs mostly to monitor cat. It would seem a better test of heaters would to ohm when disconnected. When connected, the frequency of the computer originated ground is going to b obscuring resistance reading. When testing sensor signal, I noticed u sent 12 volts to the signal wire. Was that thru a high impedance test light or incandescent light. If an incandescent, shouldn't there b some caution with that procedure? After all, the most that circuit could ever c is 1 volt, right?
+Bill Rimmer Hi Bill! Sure, to check the heater itself, the ohm check is usually the fastest and most efficient way to do that. This one measured within spec (should have shown it on camera...oops!) In this case however, I was more worried about the driver in the PCM, having that P0607 code instead of a regular open circuit code...
And no worries about damaging the PCM with a regular test light. If you noticed, the P0138 code description actually mentioned a direct short to battery voltage as a possible cause! The engineers thought that scenario through :)
I think that cars got a water leak, spiked the voltage and you got the 607 code.
Which website are you using to check the meaning of the trouble codes?
I’m confused! Scotty says that Toyodas don’t break. Yes Toyoda, the original name. It means rice paddy or something in Japanese
Hello Ivan. What software version is installed on your Verus?
Working on european mostly, I often resort to Snap-on for confirmation.
It wont work most of the time but when it works it is much more accurate than iScan2, which can send you barking up the wrong tree all day long.
Thank You
+igor dudchenko Version 14.2 on the Verus. Never heard of iScan2...is it OEM-level scanner capabilities?
If I believe correctly, most Toyotas from this century use AFR sensors rather than O2 sensors, meaning that the voltages won't "switch" but rather slowly increase and decrease as the mixture changes. Am I wrong?
+AvidAviator Correct. Subaru also uses AFR sensors, at least on the California Emissions models...
+motoYam82 Leave it to Cali to screw things up for everyone....
Hi Ivan,
At 23 minutes you figured the total resistance of the light and O2 heater @75ohms, aren't they in parallel not series?
I don't know if anyone else has pointed this out.
They are most definitely in series. Keep in mind the control pin is being grounded only through the test light which completes the circuit :)
Ivan, I like the way you express your knowledge in a case study. If I had a question concerning my Durango would you answer on line?
+Gary Johnson Hey Gary sure what's your question?
Thanks Ivan for responding. I'll gather my thoughts and get back to you
How much do you charge for the time you put in these kinds of cars that seem to fix themselves? I'm curious because it's not fair to spend your time for free. However, what do you tell the customer when they pick it up?
+mobilemechman "Bring it back if the light comes on and I'll scan it for free" :)
Ivan my Lexus Gx 470 2005 has p0441 p0455 and p0456 any idea what it could be?
Question. I have a 2011 prius p0171 comes on lean on bank 1. Where is bank 1 sensor at?
i have a 04 Toyota Prius , i just had the Hybrid battery rebuilt by the collage here ,
i was hoping it would fix another problem i am having . The problem is some times
the Speedometer works sometimes it does not ,neither do any of the gauges .
when its a hot sunny day they work . i have ran a scan for any codes none come up ?
i am hoping it is not the speedometer that is a intensive job ,
could the Ecu computer be causing the problem also the backup cam is out ,,
2004 is known for having a display computer problem. Go to www.autobeyours.com and read about it. May be loose capacitor on the display board.
This code basically means that the programminging the PCM/ECM (powertrain/engine control module) has failed. This can be a more serious code and may also be refered to as "ECM Internal Circuit Malfunction. BUT ALL THIS AND OTHER INFORMATUON IS ALL BLAFFFF. PLEASE REPLACE AIR FILTER . PRICE IS 5 EURO. AND ALL P0607 FOULT CODES WILL BE AUTOMATICALY CLEARED.
Ivan what happened to the steering wheel the owner get hungry?
maybe you fixed a high resistance problem by unplugging and plugging back in the connection on the 02
+1quickchevy2 That is a possibility...or the connector on the PCM...I partially unplugged it when I was backprobing it.
This was my thought too. I did recently have reason to be inside the computer jack on a F-150 and noted some liquid of sorts in there, wasn't antifreeze for sure but just what it was I could not determine. Anyway, a few shots of brake cleaner and air hose got it all out of there and WD-40 going back together and engine light has been off ever since, kind of unusual for that one too.
Petrol engines need to be run on a highway cycle once in awhile to blow out the carbon. There are some shops up here that will run seafoam through the engine to clean them out, I personally wouldn't do that on a newer vehicle as the result may clog up something else.
Once a week just drive your vehicle to highway speed, and getting up to highway speed give it the beans. You don't have to go to redline.
God bless.
Blow out the carbon tune up never fails 😂
Many thanks.
Great to se newer cars.
does toyota not offer a heater control for a bi directional control? where you can just turn it on instead of driving it and waiting for it while scoped
+phil holbrook If they did you bet I would have used it lol
Water intrusion behind driver’s side console box?
Hi Ivan. Quick question. I just bought an actron 9575 to read codes on a '06 Cad STS. I am trying to unplug the tool from the car. It feels like it is latched and won't come loose! Is there a trick to getting it out? BTW I got a P0174. Any ideas? Thanks.
+kuruji aha, nevermind about the plug. Wiggling side-to-side while pulling hard got it out.
+kuruji Bank 2 lean...of course start by looking at O2 signals and fuel trims under various loads. That Actron should point you in the right direction no sweat!
+kuruji I have used a few actrons in my line of work, and what we do is to cut the little tab off from the channel. It will stay put without that locking tab and let you remove it just as easily as it went on.
+motoYam82 Thanks for the response Ivan. I now have a dilemna. The upstream O2s are both fixed low at .04V, while the downstreams are slowly varying between .4V-.7V. The STFTs are slightly neg -3-4, LTFTs are a bit high +5 on #1, +10 on #2. It goes into Closed Loop quickly after starting. Seems like the downstream O2s are controlling the trim.
+VashthStampeede Thanks for the tip. It worked like a charm!
Engine comes on if you place foot on brake and foot on throttle.
As I'm watching this video..I'm a little hungry..so do I take a bite on my steering wheel??
The engine is only spinning when you put on the gas, not burning gas.
update also replace air filter even if it does not look dirty that is it your Toyota should work like new this works on all models with codes po607 and po138
Replacing the air filter is a good idea for general maintenance, but I
don't think it will have much to do with these trouble codes...
that was the problem to begin with you see the o2 sensor is just a messenger and code 607 is telling you it is low performance so do not shot the messenger or replace them all that was wrong was a restricted air filter causing a rich fuel mix that is what bank 1 sensor 2 is telling us please research this all it cost me to fix my Toyota was the cost of a new air filter save yourself hundreds of dollars by the way all dealerships are dishonest they just want your money have a merry xmass a good new year thankyou
I have same codes for my 2013 corolla. It runs just fine and I am sure it don't have any problem. 5 months back I changed oil at oil stop and they changed air filter. I suspect it might be wrong type of filter. Could it be the issue really?
I wonder if this is what it is happening to my toyota corolla 09. Both P0607 and P0138 codes came on thought it was the Oxygen sensor so I replaced it but engine light came back on after resetting it. Im lost lol
My 2014 Corolla started to do the same thing. Can’t figure out what’s wrong
@@djentyman4002 could be sensor 1 bad causing sensor 2 code..Toyota issued a fix for this....the fix.....replace both O2 sensors...something in ecm is programmed wrong....there is a video online a Toyota tech posted for P0138 code fix.
That steering wheel! It's falling apart!
every car needs an Italian tune-up once in a while
1:25 Wait... what? somebody actually gnawed at their steering wheel (that's an expression in Dutch for when someone gets frustrated in traffic)?
lol not much traffic on our driveway...maybe a slow horse or two;)
update i added some lucus injector cleaner and took her out for a good run the shit that came out of the exhaust was incredable that was all that was wrong she works like new
who the hell buys a hybrid car to put around the farm at 15 MPH? Something like a golf cart, tractor or riding lawnmower seems to make more sense.
rev up tune up huh Ivan
Must bite steering wheel when entering highway so when you get rear-ended your teeth will be closer to the steer wheel safety first in a small car lol
Scotty says Toyota’s don’t have problems
Sometimes an Italian tune up is all they need
Toyota s have a problem water getting in heater boxes and gets water all over Control modules. Quick fix clear out heater box drain and clean out o2 sensor wire to controller
and?
Jesus the dash is dusty. How can someone drive a car like that??
руль пиздатый!)
Looks like the walking dead ran out of food...
That steering wheel
Wow, you'd need a shovel to clean that thing out. Disgusting how some people keep their cars!
What engine????
Cody Bennett that little miserable excuse for an engine it's got.
Ali Abdallah you do realize that the small engine in the prius is mainly there to act as a generator for when the hybrid battery needs to charge, right?
It wouldn’t make sense to have a v8 in a hybrid
Looks like the inside of a skip !, Ivan take it your up to date with your jags, tetanus, rabies etc.... ?
Go back in the 1800.
This video is too long. Did he replace the 02 sensor? Did he replace anything else?
The video is not too long. He is taking you through the whole diagnostic process. Not just jumping to the conclusions. That would be lazy and stupid
У тоёта есть TSB по этой проблеме
Just unplug battery and dam light will go out run the car over curb tell them now it time for alignment
Hahaha even Toyota's does break down
All cars with high mileage will go through sensors.
i will be quite blunt here.....thats one heap of junk.
LZDEN that's the Prius in general.
im sure your right Ali.