I have the 2018 Lexus GS350 F sport RWD which I do all the work on it myself Brakes,Rotors,Oil change,spark plugs, and fluid changes. My car only went back twice for battery replacement and to reprogram a second key back in 2020. TH-cam helped me a lot.
They try to rip me off by charging me $800 to do my rear brakes which is even cheaper at the dealership. It is so ridiculous and they are brand new brake pads. I don't know what they did. Just can't believe that they went off with customer service and rather Rob the customer blind
Good job. I have been around cars a long time. Here are my thoughts. Use brake parts cleaner on most of the components. If the rotors are coated, follow the manuf. guidelines. Go a bit lighter on the brake pad lub. Less is more. Add a small amount of lub on the hub. Rears on many Lexus require a parking brake procedure. Replace the big bolts (one time use) on caliper brackets. Take the slide pins out and clean well. Use a high quality lube on the pins. I really like Mission Auto Dielectric Grease/Silicone. On the pins it's important to hand tighten until snug- then only 1/4 turn more. No tighter. Tighten the lugs a little more before lowering. Once on the ground the wheel can be crooked. It will still click but could be off. Absolute best bet is to do as I say, then drive it, then retorque. When breaking in the most important thing is to drive at highway speeds for 10+ minutes after your last hard breaking cycle. You never want to park the car if the rotors are very hot. That is how they warp. Less likely once they are fully broken in. Nice lift and overall very good job. Nice attention to detail for the most part. Car looks clean too.
Thanks for watching, and appreciate the detailed advice. The rotor instructions specifically said Do Not Use Brake Parts Cleaner! So we didn't. Thanks again!
@@hangtime_31 I just did front rotors on our Lexus too. It was coated and I did use the cleaner. I probably should not have but they seem fine. They are now shiny metal. Has your dull finished stayed in tact? I could imagine it wearing off over time and braking. Ours had not rusted yet but it's only been 2 weeks. No big deal if it does. It's iron so fairly inevitable. You did a great job and saved a lot of money. Thanks for posting.
@@MOAB-UT The coating is intact except where the brake pads make contact. I'm hoping the coating will keep the rust at bay, and braking action will take care of it where the pads are.
@@hangtime_31 Ok, thank you. Arguably, that area that the pads make contact is the most significant and most important part. In that case, I don't feel so bad for having cleaned mine with brake cleaner. If the main surface area no longer has protection, that coating is little more than marketing hype. Funny though, the area did not come off when I sprayed it. Only after driving so I think it is from the pads to. Not so sure I want all that coating embedded in my pads. Initially stopping power was ok, but not great. I think it's better now. Did you experience that too- almost like the rotor was more slick? Whatever that material coating is made of can't be beneficial to braking. I would take grip over a little rust.
@@MOAB-UT Yeah, the coating under the pads is designed to be worn off during the break-in process. Before that was completed, it would make a nasty rubbing noise if/when you came to a full stop. Once the pads and rotors were fully broken in and the coating was gone, the brakes performed as expected.
We had a pretty decent Lexus service advisor when we first bought the car - then we moved. Now it's a bummer, the new one seems to want to slam us for everything. Thanks for watching!
Too true, the only reason for the change was to make them match - the TA would not have liked sporty rotors on the front and boring rotors on the back. 😉 Thanks for watching!
Sorry for how long this comment is, but here you go...it's all useful info at least for the most part.... Wow that's a cheap front caliper design. Most calipers are in 2 pieces, a bracket and the actual caliper. Those are nice because a single bolt, the upper bolt, is removed and the bottom bolt acts as a hinge to open the caliper and change the pads. Oh the rear calipers are what I'm talking about. Also rear brakes wear a lot slower than the front brakes, I typically change the front pads two or three times before having to do the rear pads. Which is why those rear pads were so thick still. That goes for any and every typical road car. Front pads need changing | rear pads hardly ever. At least that's what 22 years of working on my vehicles has taught me (no im not 22, I was 16 22 years ago). Anyways the only bad thing was you forgot/ didn't bleed the brakes after compressing the caliper piston. Can easily be done by a single person with a dry empty bottle with brake fluid in it and two holes in the cap, one snug hole for a hose going into the fluid at the bottom of the bottle you add at the start and another small hole in the cap for air equalization. Connect the hose to the bleed screw and give the screw a turn, set down the bottle and start the car pump the brakes. Go look at the hose (it should be a clear hose) once the hose is full of fluid with no air bubbles in it, tighten up the bleed screw and top off the reservoir and move onto the next wheel. Always top off the reservoir at the beginning and after every wheel. Then just suck out the extra at the end. Closest wheel to the reservoir first, judging that by brake line length shortest line first to longest line last. Your car would be FL, FR, RL, RR. [ F ront, R ear, L eft, R ight ] +Good info: Otherwise if not doing a bleed, just pump the brake peddle in the driveway and build up the pressure before even putting it in gear, cause if there is a problem you don't want to find that out as you are driving. *Useless info: Also those rotors looked perfectly fine. Hmm I used to own a Lexus ES 300h, got it brand new from the dealer and pre-paid for X many services (first time owning a hybrid) and at least my dealers service department was str8 up and honest with me. The Land Rover dealership at first tried to take me for a ride. Called them out online and explained how they tried to take advantage of people by fast talking and overload a person with info. Kinda like this comment lol. +Good info: But there is one thing that is a must which Lexus doesn't include in their vehicle maintenance schedule, that is changing the transmission fluid. They only inspect for leaks and if no leaks they move on. It still needs to be changed and with how annoying that change can be, I'd suggest letting them do it. Cause the engine needs to be running to fill the transmission to the right level. *Useless info: transmissions function basically by a bunch of metal discs being compressed together with sandpaper discs in between them, so they can all spin together and if the fluid goes bad , as all fluid does. It'll burn out clutch packs, cause the broken down fluid can't protect the sandpaper discs any more. Low fluid would do the same thing if enough pressure can even be created to compress the clutch pack. +Good info: Transmission fluid should be changed at best every 30,000 miles or at least at every 50,000 miles. Beyond that is pushing it and if it is never changed once 100,000 miles comes and goes then changing the fluid could be a bad thing. *Useless info: It's crazy how every car manufacture avoids changing transmission fluid. Same goes for the differential and transfer cases of 4x4's or PTUs of AWDs they only check for leaks and move on. Those also need regular changing that isn't in the maintenance schedule.
Those are 4 piston brembo calipers. Btw you don't need to bleed brakes for that job. You only bleed the brakes when you open the system like replacing a caliper,brake line,etc. Compressing the pistons to install the new pads does not let air into the system.
They really rip you off. All dealers. It’s a shame how they rip off every day people who work tirelessly for their money. But God is watching, and listening and they will suffer a royal guilt of an enteral complex to be their end.
Brakes are good. They started to get a squeak after a week or so, but a run through of the break-in process got rid of that. Been great ever since then. Thanks for watching!
As an ex dealer automotive technician i can say there are bad mechanics but there are also good ones my advise to anyone who takes their vehicle to a shop is build a good relation with with your mechanic and gain their trust
Dude! We studied your RC350 front brake and rotor video extensively (and repeatedly) before attemping (and while doing) this project. Watched the rear brake video on another model you did as well, and although ours aren't electrical, it was helpful. You were a HUGE help!! Thanks for what you're doing. I never imagined myself doing this task, nor that you'd see my video, let alone comment. Cheers!!
@@harborareatech310 Hey, got a question for you. I'm in a couple of Lexus RC groups on FB and several of us have a situation like my TA has - she might only put 500 miles on her RC in six months, but the manual says change at 5k miles or six months, whichever comes first. Seems silly to change the nearly new oil at 500 miles in six months, but what would you say is a good guideline in her case??
@hangtime_31 According to the manufacturer, the oil change on RC-F is required every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. For the regular RC models, it is required every 10k miles or 12 months, whichever comes first, but even though the manufacturer states every 10k I recommend to do it every 5k or 6 months whichever comes first. If your vehicle is only driven 500 miles in 6 months, I don't think it would hurt if you don't do it right away. I would say drive it more! If you can't maybe once a year would be fine
For one the wheels are torque to spec so they are not ridiculously tight. 2 if you are replacing rotors with one piece rotors instead of of the 2 piece rotors that it’s supposed to have it’s going to be cheaper of course.
One piece / two piece rotors? The OEM ones we took off seemed to be one piece but I'm not a mechanic so I'm not familiar with what you're talking about.
@@hangtime_31 the f sports mostly come with two piece rotors hence why it was 1500$ for a brake job …. I can see you installed cheap one piece rotors on there.
That's a whole nuther can of worms. I trust the dealer to (usually) do it right, but they're unnecessarily expensive since they have to pay for that nice waiting room where they make an omelet for you. I trust Jiffy Lube to be cheap, therefore more risk of doing stuff not to spec. I'm at a spot where I'll either do it at the dealer or do it myself so I know what's been done to it.
@@josueramirez-gt5ny Doing quite well so far, thanks! In the "for what it's worth" category, my neighbor said he's had really nasty squeals with the ceramic rotors on his new Corvette and his wife's new Audi, so I guess it's all a mixed bag.
I have the 2018 Lexus GS350 F sport RWD which I do all the work on it myself Brakes,Rotors,Oil change,spark plugs, and fluid changes. My car only went back twice for battery replacement and to reprogram a second key back in 2020. TH-cam helped me a lot.
Awesome! Pretty much any time something needs maintenance (or worse, breaks) in the house, it's my "go to" resource. Cheers and thanks for watching!
They try to rip me off by charging me $800 to do my rear brakes which is even cheaper at the dealership. It is so ridiculous and they are brand new brake pads. I don't know what they did. Just can't believe that they went off with customer service and rather Rob the customer blind
Good job. I have been around cars a long time. Here are my thoughts.
Use brake parts cleaner on most of the components. If the rotors are coated, follow the manuf. guidelines.
Go a bit lighter on the brake pad lub. Less is more.
Add a small amount of lub on the hub.
Rears on many Lexus require a parking brake procedure.
Replace the big bolts (one time use) on caliper brackets.
Take the slide pins out and clean well. Use a high quality lube on the pins. I really like Mission Auto Dielectric Grease/Silicone.
On the pins it's important to hand tighten until snug- then only 1/4 turn more. No tighter.
Tighten the lugs a little more before lowering. Once on the ground the wheel can be crooked. It will still click but could be off. Absolute best bet is to do as I say, then drive it, then retorque.
When breaking in the most important thing is to drive at highway speeds for 10+ minutes after your last hard breaking cycle. You never want to park the car if the rotors are very hot. That is how they warp. Less likely once they are fully broken in.
Nice lift and overall very good job. Nice attention to detail for the most part. Car looks clean too.
Thanks for watching, and appreciate the detailed advice. The rotor instructions specifically said Do Not Use Brake Parts Cleaner! So we didn't. Thanks again!
@@hangtime_31 I just did front rotors on our Lexus too. It was coated and I did use the cleaner. I probably should not have but they seem fine. They are now shiny metal. Has your dull finished stayed in tact? I could imagine it wearing off over time and braking. Ours had not rusted yet but it's only been 2 weeks. No big deal if it does. It's iron so fairly inevitable.
You did a great job and saved a lot of money. Thanks for posting.
@@MOAB-UT The coating is intact except where the brake pads make contact. I'm hoping the coating will keep the rust at bay, and braking action will take care of it where the pads are.
@@hangtime_31 Ok, thank you. Arguably, that area that the pads make contact is the most significant and most important part. In that case, I don't feel so bad for having cleaned mine with brake cleaner. If the main surface area no longer has protection, that coating is little more than marketing hype. Funny though, the area did not come off when I sprayed it. Only after driving so I think it is from the pads to. Not so sure I want all that coating embedded in my pads. Initially stopping power was ok, but not great. I think it's better now. Did you experience that too- almost like the rotor was more slick? Whatever that material coating is made of can't be beneficial to braking. I would take grip over a little rust.
@@MOAB-UT Yeah, the coating under the pads is designed to be worn off during the break-in process. Before that was completed, it would make a nasty rubbing noise if/when you came to a full stop. Once the pads and rotors were fully broken in and the coating was gone, the brakes performed as expected.
Love it 💖 Thank you for such a thorough video!! ✨💃🏻
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
i have never found a good Lexus Dealer DIY is the way to go.
We had a pretty decent Lexus service advisor when we first bought the car - then we moved. Now it's a bummer, the new one seems to want to slam us for everything. Thanks for watching!
Unbelievable!!!!! What a ripoff. Great job on the rotors they look much better (and sportier) than the OEM
Thanks for watching! Props to my neighbor buddy for helping pick them out! 😁
They are junk
Thanks for the video! I love how in depth you go
Glad you enjoyed it!
We both go to the university of TH-cam. That's where I learned how to change a clutch in a mini cooper lol
For what i know about mechanics (not to much) there was no reason to change the back rotor pads, just for the better look, there was no wear on them.
Too true, the only reason for the change was to make them match - the TA would not have liked sporty rotors on the front and boring rotors on the back. 😉 Thanks for watching!
Your rear pads looked like they are still good. Did you just change them because you installed the cross drilled rotors?
Yup. The TA wouldn't have been impressed if they didn't match!
Sorry for how long this comment is, but here you go...it's all useful info at least for the most part....
Wow that's a cheap front caliper design. Most calipers are in 2 pieces, a bracket and the actual caliper. Those are nice because a single bolt, the upper bolt, is removed and the bottom bolt acts as a hinge to open the caliper and change the pads. Oh the rear calipers are what I'm talking about.
Also rear brakes wear a lot slower than the front brakes, I typically change the front pads two or three times before having to do the rear pads. Which is why those rear pads were so thick still. That goes for any and every typical road car. Front pads need changing | rear pads hardly ever. At least that's what 22 years of working on my vehicles has taught me (no im not 22, I was 16 22 years ago).
Anyways the only bad thing was you forgot/ didn't bleed the brakes after compressing the caliper piston. Can easily be done by a single person with a dry empty bottle with brake fluid in it and two holes in the cap, one snug hole for a hose going into the fluid at the bottom of the bottle you add at the start and another small hole in the cap for air equalization. Connect the hose to the bleed screw and give the screw a turn, set down the bottle and start the car pump the brakes. Go look at the hose (it should be a clear hose) once the hose is full of fluid with no air bubbles in it, tighten up the bleed screw and top off the reservoir and move onto the next wheel. Always top off the reservoir at the beginning and after every wheel. Then just suck out the extra at the end. Closest wheel to the reservoir first, judging that by brake line length shortest line first to longest line last. Your car would be FL, FR, RL, RR. [ F ront, R ear, L eft, R ight ]
+Good info: Otherwise if not doing a bleed, just pump the brake peddle in the driveway and build up the pressure before even putting it in gear, cause if there is a problem you don't want to find that out as you are driving.
*Useless info: Also those rotors looked perfectly fine. Hmm I used to own a Lexus ES 300h, got it brand new from the dealer and pre-paid for X many services (first time owning a hybrid) and at least my dealers service department was str8 up and honest with me. The Land Rover dealership at first tried to take me for a ride. Called them out online and explained how they tried to take advantage of people by fast talking and overload a person with info. Kinda like this comment lol.
+Good info: But there is one thing that is a must which Lexus doesn't include in their vehicle maintenance schedule, that is changing the transmission fluid. They only inspect for leaks and if no leaks they move on. It still needs to be changed and with how annoying that change can be, I'd suggest letting them do it. Cause the engine needs to be running to fill the transmission to the right level.
*Useless info: transmissions function basically by a bunch of metal discs being compressed together with sandpaper discs in between them, so they can all spin together and if the fluid goes bad , as all fluid does. It'll burn out clutch packs, cause the broken down fluid can't protect the sandpaper discs any more. Low fluid would do the same thing if enough pressure can even be created to compress the clutch pack.
+Good info: Transmission fluid should be changed at best every 30,000 miles or at least at every 50,000 miles. Beyond that is pushing it and if it is never changed once 100,000 miles comes and goes then changing the fluid could be a bad thing.
*Useless info: It's crazy how every car manufacture avoids changing transmission fluid. Same goes for the differential and transfer cases of 4x4's or PTUs of AWDs they only check for leaks and move on. Those also need regular changing that isn't in the maintenance schedule.
Thanks for watching and for all the detailed info!! 👍
Those are 4 piston brembo calipers. Btw you don't need to bleed brakes for that job. You only bleed the brakes when you open the system like replacing a caliper,brake line,etc. Compressing the pistons to install the new pads does not let air into the system.
They really rip you off. All dealers. It’s a shame how they rip off every day people who work tirelessly for their money. But God is watching, and listening and they will suffer a royal guilt of an enteral complex to be their end.
How are the new brakes? Getting any squeaky noice or dust so far?
Brakes are good. They started to get a squeak after a week or so, but a run through of the break-in process got rid of that. Been great ever since then. Thanks for watching!
good work doing this on my 2015 RC
Glad it helped! 👍
As an ex dealer automotive technician i can say there are bad mechanics but there are also good ones my advise to anyone who takes their vehicle to a shop is build a good relation with with your mechanic and gain their trust
Dude! We studied your RC350 front brake and rotor video extensively (and repeatedly) before attemping (and while doing) this project. Watched the rear brake video on another model you did as well, and although ours aren't electrical, it was helpful. You were a HUGE help!! Thanks for what you're doing. I never imagined myself doing this task, nor that you'd see my video, let alone comment. Cheers!!
@@hangtime_31 i thought it looked familiar. Good video glad it helped!
😂😂😂
@@harborareatech310 Hey, got a question for you. I'm in a couple of Lexus RC groups on FB and several of us have a situation like my TA has - she might only put 500 miles on her RC in six months, but the manual says change at 5k miles or six months, whichever comes first. Seems silly to change the nearly new oil at 500 miles in six months, but what would you say is a good guideline in her case??
@hangtime_31 According to the manufacturer, the oil change on RC-F is required every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. For the regular RC models, it is required every 10k miles or 12 months, whichever comes first, but even though the manufacturer states every 10k I recommend to do it every 5k or 6 months whichever comes first.
If your vehicle is only driven 500 miles in 6 months, I don't think it would hurt if you don't do it right away. I would say drive it more! If you can't maybe once a year would be fine
For one the wheels are torque to spec so they are not ridiculously tight.
2 if you are replacing rotors with one piece rotors instead of of the 2 piece rotors that it’s supposed to have it’s going to be cheaper of course.
One piece / two piece rotors? The OEM ones we took off seemed to be one piece but I'm not a mechanic so I'm not familiar with what you're talking about.
@@hangtime_31 the f sports mostly come with two piece rotors hence why it was 1500$ for a brake job …. I can see you installed cheap one piece rotors on there.
@@josueramirez-gt5ny hm. The early worn out OEMs seemed to be in one piece when I removed them, so that's why I don't understand what you're saying.
@@hangtime_31 please search up what a 2 piece rotor is and then hopefully you’ll understand why it cost 1500$ to do front brakes
@@josueramirez-gt5ny Are you talking about two rotors separated by an internal spacing for cooling and such?
Why buy a luxury sports car then complain about dealer prices????🤣 Go buy a toyota and go to jiffy lube!
His aftermarket rotors will make noise in 6 months
That's a whole nuther can of worms. I trust the dealer to (usually) do it right, but they're unnecessarily expensive since they have to pay for that nice waiting room where they make an omelet for you. I trust Jiffy Lube to be cheap, therefore more risk of doing stuff not to spec. I'm at a spot where I'll either do it at the dealer or do it myself so I know what's been done to it.
@@josueramirez-gt5ny Doing quite well so far, thanks! In the "for what it's worth" category, my neighbor said he's had really nasty squeals with the ceramic rotors on his new Corvette and his wife's new Audi, so I guess it's all a mixed bag.
@@hangtime_31 yeah because they have performance brake pads it’s normal to have brake squeal from factory.