Jeff, I would and you should use studs in aluminum heads, the reason is when you torque the bolts in AL. you can shear the threads if you have studs then the load is just tension. ARP bolts should have everything you need, high quality and price but it will keep all your shiny bits attached.. . You seem to be enjoying your new lift... Merry Christmas guys..
I had my L28 built by a z specialist (in the U.S.) and he discouraged me from using head studs for my application. I don't think anyone will argue that studs aren't stronger, but for my set up .30 bored over stock, N42 ported, polished, stage 3 cam, etc he said ARP head studs caused more problems than they solve. They don't expand and contract as much as the cylinder head and in his experience caused hot spots between the head and the block. Using triple webers, I hope to get around 225 rwhp. I'm guessing anything over 300 hp would probably change this equation in favor of studs, but I just wanted to pass on what my engine builder told me about my particular engine. He really seemed to know his stuff! Thanks, and I love your channel. Keep up the awesome work!!!
Hey Derik. My information is not as in depth, I rebuilt a 4cyl ~ 3years ago, my machinist recommends ARP and studs for the reason I outlined, sounds like you have a knowledgeable builder but when you start pushing limits things can get a little fiddly and each application should consider the limits, that's when you listen to the guy you trust. Good luck with your build and have fun driving it. ;)
One other advantage to using studs (besides less risk of damaging the threads on the aluminum heads) is that you can "hang" the headers on them while fitting them up. If you have room, this can be a less fiddley option than trying to hold the header in place while lining up the bolt holes.
Really enjoying the pace of the project now Jeff. Great idea with the clear coat on the lights, they do look really glossy now. Keep up the great work. Stu, Leeds, UK
I believe the pipe coming out of the thermostat housing is a heater return line...keep up the great work! Best wishes from Mississippi USA...I hope to get to Australia one day in the next few years...I'm really wanting a Barra motor from the Aussies! 😊
@@HomeBuiltByJeff To my understanding is that pipe coming out of the thermostat is a hot water line that ran through the old intake manifold; around the back of the engine and into a water inlet on the drivers side of the block. This was done to speed up the warming up process. It was also done to help fuel vaporization and in areas where temps get to freezing keep the manifold at a constant temp.Put a plug in it you wont need it most have been disconnected many years ago.
I second the motion to have studs in the exhaust mounts...usually they are left there permanently as they sieze up in the aluminium. Thankyou for the Smokey Yunich fun facts Mrs Jeff..love the 7/8 scale legend.
The pipe on the thermostat housing is for the original inlet manifold. On the L28, it's to warm the fast idle valve for a cold engine. On the carbed engines, it was to keep the carbies from freezing as the gas is being atomized. In any case, you won't be needing it.
Hey Jeff, have you considered heat wrapping the headers in addition with the heat shield. I run mine with header wrap and I am amazed how much it helps with under bonnet temps.
You can cover the underside of the heatshield with reflective heat tape (it looks like fancy gaffer tape (or gold duct tape). This will help reflect heat from the headers. Of course I used aluminum for making my heatshield.
You can delete that fitting off the water temp housing 😉 studs are great so you can easily take on and off the headers without messing up the head. Great work Jeff!
First time I've tapped into this series, and I like what you're doing. I haven't seen enough yet to tell whether this is an early 240 with the cabin vents in the hatch, or the late '71->'73 with the vents built into the roof pillars. The holes in the roof pillars are obvious if present and are covered by the circular Z emblem. The later 240 emblems for the roof pillar vents are not interchangeable from side to side, and you'll notice that there are small notches cut in one side of the circumference of the emblem. When installed, the notches need to go toward the back of the car, so that the air passing over the car draws air out of the cabin. If the notches are installed facing forward (due the emblems being installed on the incorrect side), the cabin is not vented correctly and you risk the buildup of exhaust inside the car.
Hi Jeff , make two heat shields the same . weld two bolts the same on number 2 and 5 pipes on the tubed headers put one shield on , one nut or two , second shield on , two nuts .locked together , so there is a air between shields put a pipe to front of car to blow air in between them
I feel your pain with having the exhaust/intake all on the same side! My 1980 Corolla Tercel is the same layout (albeit a lil 1.5 ltr 4cyl.). When I first got my yota it would actually boil the fuel in the carb if I drove more than 15/20min!!! Weeks of anguish and research toyota was able to find me the factory heat shield from a guy on Ebay in Nebraska of all places!
I believe the smaller pipe coming from the thermostat housing is for the water cooling found on 260Z carbs. You can just delete it as 240Z carbs have no water cooling.
The early 240z SU's (with 4 screws holding on the piston dome, and E46 casting number on the manifolds) did not have water cooling running to the mounting face of the carb, although it was probably running through the manifolds. The later 240 SU's (3 screw domes and E88 manifolds) did have water running to the carb itself. There are two small holes at the carb mounting face on the manifold, two corresponding holes in the phenolic block between the manifold and carb, and a passage in the manifold mounting face of the carb to allow water to flow into the carb base from one hole and back to the manifold through the other hole.
You need M8 x 1.25 x 38mm studs which are champion part number CDNS1 for a 10 pack. Bursons, an exhaust shop or engineering / fastener supplier will have them available individually without nuts and cheaper as well. On another note I have 1:1 odds of the parts needing to be painted will be scratch repairs due to Jeff's well documented clumsiness!
Hi Jeff. I can recommend a product called Nimbus heat shield for making a heat-shield out of. I used some to re-make a shield in a Lotus Elise I used to own after the OEM one fell to bits.
You need a Rear Anti-Sway bar :-) I bought a kit from ST Suspensions. Even got a rebate! Makes a huge difference to the feel of the car on twisty roads or around tight corners.
We've pulled the coats out and you guys pulled the shorts out. Too bad you couldn't make that valve cover look a little more modern. Just my thought. Great work. Start up won't be long.
5:10 the larger roof pillar emblem is for a 2+2. From 1971-1978 the smaller metal one is original, only the first generation 240z from 1970-1971 had a different pillar emblem that said "240z".
From memory that water neck is for the return from the carbs, water would run through them to prevent freezing in climates as well as emissions reasons, with aftermarket carbs you can just block it off. (I believe this is the case but I'm not 100% sure
I had a lunatic friend who reckoned he cleaned old light and indicator lenses in their dishwasher 😱 btw the lovely 1:1 scale model Porsche you have would look great in a display case on the wall. Have you thought of building one? (Sarcastic? Moi? Non, c'est impossible!)
I would imagine thst pipe on the tstat housing is for the inlet manifold coolant, Either way, its a good spot to run the heater return (or bypass coolant) as the stock setup ( at least for usdm cars, i dont know about the rhd s30's, but i would imagine it would be the same, but its possible thats the stock setup on rhd cars) routes it back into the water pump inlet and can cause cooling issues. Also, you should try your best to get a heat shield as far under the manifold as possible, they heat soak easily and can cause pinging on hot days and a general lack of power..
You should take it a step further and make a daily/weekly TV show with videos of the thieves as they open the boxes. No blurring their faces let the world see who they are. Then show the police arresting them. That's how you stop these thieves. And cover different cities! Would be the best show ever!!
Hi Jeff, love you videos. I’m doing up a 260z at home and your stuff has been great to watch. Can you tell me what brand hour headers are? Cheers Brenden
did not see it til the end before writing maybe ceramic coating on the exhaust??? inside and out side or maybe just fit a hose so there is cold air comming in between the manifolds regards Sören
Jeff, I have been really enjoying your Datsun build. Your questions about S30 specific information might be solved with the factory service manual. Here is a link to a resource. www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html
You really should look into getting the correct mustache bar. There shouldnt be tension on it as it sits in the car. In your case, it's going to push forward on the front rubber diff mount till it causes it to fail. You have an R180 diff, you should get the mustache bar to suit.
winstonUSMC Hi, you night know, how come you don't see the drop plates for the suspension and the mustache bar joined together .As i can get over 1g corner and my bolts work loose
@@robwhite240z I have thought about it, but I dont think it would add that much strength. What bolts are coming loose? Maybe look into better hardware. I bet a better idea is connect the front and rear cross bars together so they dont flex on the rubber lower control arm bushings.
@@winstonUSMC Hi ,silly me 2mm slotted the top of the rear drop plates to align the rear end.As i run all std stuff, Std the bolt holes are bigger than bolts, I have thought of welding a ( x ) brace on plates and a tack weld at the top of the plates to the chassis.
Jeff life is short bro. Your wife was built by the GODS and your self proclaimed home built. Waste all your time on cars dude. Lol not many watch you bro they watch her in the end duh?
Jeff, I would and you should use studs in aluminum heads, the reason is when you torque the bolts in AL. you can shear the threads if you have studs then the load is just tension. ARP bolts should have everything you need, high quality and price but it will keep all your shiny bits attached.. . You seem to be enjoying your new lift... Merry Christmas guys..
Agree.
I had my L28 built by a z specialist (in the U.S.) and he discouraged me from using head studs for my application. I don't think anyone will argue that studs aren't stronger, but for my set up .30 bored over stock, N42 ported, polished, stage 3 cam, etc he said ARP head studs caused more problems than they solve. They don't expand and contract as much as the cylinder head and in his experience caused hot spots between the head and the block. Using triple webers, I hope to get around 225 rwhp. I'm guessing anything over 300 hp would probably change this equation in favor of studs, but I just wanted to pass on what my engine builder told me about my particular engine. He really seemed to know his stuff! Thanks, and I love your channel. Keep up the awesome work!!!
Hey Derik. My information is not as in depth, I rebuilt a 4cyl ~ 3years ago, my machinist recommends ARP and studs for the reason I outlined, sounds like you have a knowledgeable builder but when you start pushing limits things can get a little fiddly and each application should consider the limits, that's when you listen to the guy you trust. Good luck with your build and have fun driving it. ;)
One other advantage to using studs (besides less risk of damaging the threads on the aluminum heads) is that you can "hang" the headers on them while fitting them up. If you have room, this can be a less fiddley option than trying to hold the header in place while lining up the bolt holes.
the problem with putting bolts into a blind hole is that you can never be sure your tightening to spec or bottoming out the bolt, always use studs
Really enjoying the pace of the project now Jeff. Great idea with the clear coat on the lights, they do look really glossy now.
Keep up the great work.
Stu, Leeds, UK
I believe the pipe coming out of the thermostat housing is a heater return line...keep up the great work! Best wishes from Mississippi USA...I hope to get to Australia one day in the next few years...I'm really wanting a Barra motor from the Aussies! 😊
I believe Benny still has one in the states that I may end up selling
@@HomeBuiltByJeff To my understanding is that pipe coming out of the thermostat is a hot water line that ran through the old intake manifold; around the back of the engine and into a water inlet on the drivers side of the block. This was done to speed up the warming up process. It was also done to help fuel vaporization and in areas where temps get to freezing keep the manifold at a constant temp.Put a plug in it you wont need it most have been disconnected many years ago.
I second the motion to have studs in the exhaust mounts...usually they are left there permanently as they sieze up in the aluminium. Thankyou for the Smokey Yunich fun facts Mrs Jeff..love the 7/8 scale legend.
The pipe on the thermostat housing is for the original inlet manifold. On the L28, it's to warm the fast idle valve for a cold engine. On the carbed engines, it was to keep the carbies from freezing as the gas is being atomized. In any case, you won't be needing it.
Hey Jeff, have you considered heat wrapping the headers in addition with the heat shield. I run mine with header wrap and I am amazed how much it helps with under bonnet temps.
I may do that
You can cover the underside of the heatshield with reflective heat tape (it looks like fancy gaffer tape (or gold duct tape). This will help reflect heat from the headers. Of course I used aluminum for making my heatshield.
Ceramic coating looks nice too.
You can delete that fitting off the water temp housing 😉 studs are great so you can easily take on and off the headers without messing up the head. Great work Jeff!
It was used to run hot water through the old SU carbs. Preheated them for cold climates. Totally useless idea IMHO. But I live in California.
Richard Harvey yup, also used on the Weber 32/36 DGV carbs.
It’s looking awesome Jeff! I believe your correct on the exhaust gasket orientation.
First time I've tapped into this series, and I like what you're doing. I haven't seen enough yet to tell whether this is an early 240 with the cabin vents in the hatch, or the late '71->'73 with the vents built into the roof pillars. The holes in the roof pillars are obvious if present and are covered by the circular Z emblem. The later 240 emblems for the roof pillar vents are not interchangeable from side to side, and you'll notice that there are small notches cut in one side of the circumference of the emblem. When installed, the notches need to go toward the back of the car, so that the air passing over the car draws air out of the cabin. If the notches are installed facing forward (due the emblems being installed on the incorrect side), the cabin is not vented correctly and you risk the buildup of exhaust inside the car.
Hi Jeff , make two heat shields the same . weld two bolts the same on number 2 and 5 pipes on the tubed headers
put one shield on , one nut or two , second shield on , two nuts .locked together , so there is a air between shields
put a pipe to front of car to blow air in between them
Looks great jeff, well done
Love your attention to detail Jeff! Keep up the good work! Tiger.
I recently rebuilt a L series and used M8 X 1.25 X 36mm exhaust studs. Worked a treat.
G'day Jeff looking good buddy. Broom broom on the way to a road near you😉😊👍👍
I feel your pain with having the exhaust/intake all on the same side! My 1980 Corolla Tercel is the same layout (albeit a lil 1.5 ltr 4cyl.). When I first got my yota it would actually boil the fuel in the carb if I drove more than 15/20min!!! Weeks of anguish and research toyota was able to find me the factory heat shield from a guy on Ebay in Nebraska of all places!
I believe the smaller pipe coming from the thermostat housing is for the water cooling found on 260Z carbs. You can just delete it as 240Z carbs have no water cooling.
The early 240z SU's (with 4 screws holding on the piston dome, and E46 casting number on the manifolds) did not have water cooling running to the mounting face of the carb, although it was probably running through the manifolds. The later 240 SU's (3 screw domes and E88 manifolds) did have water running to the carb itself. There are two small holes at the carb mounting face on the manifold, two corresponding holes in the phenolic block between the manifold and carb, and a passage in the manifold mounting face of the carb to allow water to flow into the carb base from one hole and back to the manifold through the other hole.
You need M8 x 1.25 x 38mm studs which are champion part number CDNS1 for a 10 pack. Bursons, an exhaust shop or engineering / fastener supplier will have them available individually without nuts and cheaper as well.
On another note I have 1:1 odds of the parts needing to be painted will be scratch repairs due to Jeff's well documented clumsiness!
There is already plenty of that needed ;)
Hi Jeff. I can recommend a product called Nimbus heat shield for making a heat-shield out of. I used some to re-make a shield in a Lotus Elise I used to own after the OEM one fell to bits.
You need a Rear Anti-Sway bar :-)
I bought a kit from ST Suspensions. Even got a rebate! Makes a huge difference to the feel of the car on twisty roads or around tight corners.
UK cars had front and rear anti-roll bars as standard.
We've pulled the coats out and you guys pulled the shorts out. Too bad you couldn't make that valve cover look a little more modern. Just my thought. Great work. Start up won't be long.
5:10 the larger roof pillar emblem is for a 2+2. From 1971-1978 the smaller metal one is original, only the first generation 240z from 1970-1971 had a different pillar emblem that said "240z".
From memory that water neck is for the return from the carbs, water would run through them to prevent freezing in climates as well as emissions reasons, with aftermarket carbs you can just block it off. (I believe this is the case but I'm not 100% sure
tail lights look awesome
Excelłent smithers! It is looking great. Keep it up!
I had a lunatic friend who reckoned he cleaned old light and indicator lenses in their dishwasher 😱 btw the lovely 1:1 scale model Porsche you have would look great in a display case on the wall. Have you thought of building one? (Sarcastic? Moi? Non, c'est impossible!)
I hope you checked that LH wing hollow dowel for the gear box
as the gearbox will destroy itself being misaligned
That's what I told him.
It is coming
I would imagine thst pipe on the tstat housing is for the inlet manifold coolant, Either way, its a good spot to run the heater return (or bypass coolant) as the stock setup ( at least for usdm cars, i dont know about the rhd s30's, but i would imagine it would be the same, but its possible thats the stock setup on rhd cars) routes it back into the water pump inlet and can cause cooling issues.
Also, you should try your best to get a heat shield as far under the manifold as possible, they heat soak easily and can cause pinging on hot days and a general lack of power..
I can also confirm you can delete that water fitting. It went to the twin SU manifold which you dont have anymore.
I hope I can see your 240Z on the streets.
I prefer studs in aluminum heads but as long as your torque is good bolts can work, just not as well in my experience
You should take it a step further and make a daily/weekly TV show with videos of the thieves as they open the boxes. No blurring their faces let the world see who they are. Then show the police arresting them. That's how you stop these thieves. And cover different cities! Would be the best show ever!!
Hi Jeff, love you videos. I’m doing up a 260z at home and your stuff has been great to watch. Can you tell me what brand hour headers are? Cheers Brenden
From Stewart Wilkins
Just block off that water inlet on the thermostat housing. It's for watercooling of the stock SU carbs
are you doing somethin either metal guard or wrapping the 6 branch so the exhaust doesn´t cook the carbs???
regards
Sören
did not see it til the end before writing maybe ceramic coating on the exhaust??? inside and out side
or maybe just fit a hose so there is cold air comming in between the manifolds
regards
Sören
Every Datsun 4 cilender I ever worked on had exhaust and intake on the same side.
Only the old stuff. FJ, CA and SR don't.
Getting close. How about a live feed the first time you fire up the motor?
That is a good idea, but it is a little way off yet.
That gasket looks like it has two cats on the side and a pig in the middle
We all want to hear mrs jeff speak french!!!!!!
Jeff what is the casting number on the bottom of the diff it might be able to tell you more info about it
You've acquired a bunch of new tools recently. Which new tool had the biggest impact, or gets used the most?
Thanks mate, we will add that to the list :D
studs brother
how about an update on the Porsche engine please Jeff
Soon
Jeff your killing me with the 680. There is a better name out there. :)
What brand intake manifold our you using?
I am replacing the EFI on my 280z (US) with Weber 40s.
Kameari
Wow! amazing find on that dash! Please stop calling it a 680...
Studs would be better for clamping force and sealing!
Just wrap the headers mate. :-)
Jeff, I have been really enjoying your Datsun build. Your questions about S30 specific information might be solved with the factory service manual. Here is a link to a resource.
www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html
That is a great resource, thanks.
You really should look into getting the correct mustache bar. There shouldnt be tension on it as it sits in the car. In your case, it's going to push forward on the front rubber diff mount till it causes it to fail. You have an R180 diff, you should get the mustache bar to suit.
winstonUSMC Hi, you night know, how come you don't see the drop plates for the suspension and the mustache bar
joined together .As i can get over 1g corner and my bolts work loose
@@robwhite240z I have thought about it, but I dont think it would add that much strength. What bolts are coming loose? Maybe look into better hardware. I bet a better idea is connect the front and rear cross bars together so they dont flex on the rubber lower control arm bushings.
@@winstonUSMC Hi ,silly me 2mm slotted the top of the rear drop plates to align the rear end.As i run all std stuff,
Std the bolt holes are bigger than bolts, I have thought of welding a ( x ) brace on plates and a tack weld at the top of the plates to the chassis.
Aluminum wheels, hi Jeff I have 2 brand new wheels from Z26p, if would like to have them let me know. Mike
Z 260
Thanks, I have wheels on the way
Home Built By Jeff , okay, keep to get it together. Mike
Individual TB’s 🙏🏻 not carbs.
Sorry
www.rubber-soul.net/p-cabureter.htm on this page there is a kind of tray that usually put between the carburetors and the exhaust
I have an alternative ;)
part 68
Please dont use "bolts"
Jeff life is short bro. Your wife was built by the GODS and your self proclaimed home built. Waste all your time on cars dude. Lol not many watch you bro they watch her in the end duh?