Toyota big brake upgrade - Home Built Datsun 240z part 69
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Jeff, you're at a crossroads with the braking system and I'd like to share some additional info before you get to deep. First off, the Toyota 4-piston front brake upgrade paired with the stock rear drums will affect the braking bias so much that nearly all will be handled by the fronts, not a beneficial solution. Second solution, upgrading the front to the Toyota and upgrading the rears to disc (typically Maxima calipers are most popular) will provide you slightly more rear bias, but not enough real world bite to be worth the effort. Third and most effective (for a "budget" braking system) will be utilizing the Toyota fronts with Silvermine Motors Stage 4 rear disc brake kit (stock e-brake function retained, but minimum 15-inch wheel required) along with an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brake hose to dial in the bias to the fronts. The Stage 4 kit includes rotors larger in diameter than the Toyota fronts with more than twice the pad surface area of the Maxima caliper pads. With this combo it's essential to use either a 280ZX 15/16" dual reservoir master cylinder or a Wilwood 1" (with the check valves removed) as there will be much more fluid volume required. The only details you will need to know if you go with the third option is the brake hoses off the ZX/Wilwood mc will have to be routed correctly down to the oem brake switch dist block below it and that the Stage 4 Silvermine Kit has the brake bleeders pointing down when installed as they are shipped. The latter can be solved by removing the e-brake brackets from each caliper, drill/tap a new bolt hole in the rear of the caliper body, and swap them. Now the bleeders will point up and the e-brake is also placed in a better position.
If you decide now to question this entire brake upgrade, as it gets a bit involved in matching up the correct components to work in harmony, there's always more expensive options by Techno Toy Tuning or Arizona Z Car (+$2K usd) or the easiest and most effective route for nearly all street driven/tracked Z cars is to just keep the stock 2-piston Sumitomo calipers, rear drums and pair them with some quality rotors/pads/ss lines/competition brake shoes/good quality fluid and call it a day. The stock disc/drum set-up has been known to be the best engineered system for the Z without going upgrade crazy and has been track proven for almost 50 years.
As for fitting the Toyota calipers, there's three options, you decided on the largest and heaviest of the bunch. The aluminum spacer thickness is dependent on the hub used. You have the 280Z hubs, all round, those require the thinner spacer. 240Z hubs use the thick spacer.
Another important install note is that the use of the included hardware (incorrect design as its fully threaded) for securing the rotor to the hub typically throws off the rotational balance. The oem hardware was a partially threaded bolt, the non-threaded section under the head centered the rotor. Ensure that you've centered the rotor to the hub if using that aftermarket hardware.
I always see other peoples unfinished projects sold for cheap, and I guess you are showing why no one wants to buy them. Impressive that you keep going even though this thing constantly produces new issues.
You need a small lathe Jeff, i chuck the old cups in the jaws and hit them with a flap wheel so they’re undersize and can be used to press the new ones in.
It's coming along, the brake upgrade will be worth it when it's done, hopefully Santa brings the right spacers! Merry Christmas to you both!
Didnt thumbs up, cos it was on 240!
Good work mate!
Nice brake upgrade Jeff. It reminded me of the fact the old BL Austin Princess actually had six pot calipers which ended up being scavenged for no end of upgrades. I recall selling a Princess to a bloke who paid for it in small change. His whole family turned up lugging bag after bag of coins. Deep joy for me on the counting front 😱
you are living on the edge ,that strap tensinor was really close to the paint
keep up the good work
regards
Sören
I used a late 90s 4runner's brakes i bought refurbished from an autoparts store on my Z and it didnt require a rotor change, spacer, or enlarging bolt holes. your new vented rotors look kick-ass though.
That's because you bought the solid rotor S12+4 calipers, the only direct bolt-on's. The vented rotor S12+8's and the S12W which Jeff is using require a spacer.
Awesome video! I'm doing my brake upgrade right now. One side at a time. I'm suprised at how easy it was to take the hub down all apart. I went to autozone and got calipers PN: C8465 and C8464, rotors are PN:3243 and I don't remember who it was but he makes the spacers out of alluminium. Can't wait to feel the difference and then I gotta figure out how to upgrade the rear brake system. I would like a disk set up. Anyways, I love these videos, they are part of my inspiration for building my 240z! Keep it going, also loved the porsche videos build too! 3/89 toyota 4 runner calipers bolt up but they don't fit the pads, get the 4/89 toyota 4runner calipers. Stamped s12w. Brake pad number is (autozone pn) mkd410.
Progressing as usual....the classic notion of,”If you’re not cheating you’re not trying to win!”
Hey buddie, if it was me I'd hold up on putting the glass in. That is until you do a lil polishing on them. There's some really good/inexpensive glass polish online that really makes a big difference in the end. And while doing that, I always go back over them with some glass sealer. It seals up all the lil pores and leaves your glass super smooth. Again, its just a tip but for an hour of time you can get some seriously amazing results.
I did actually polish them before I put them together. They have just got WD40 from fitting the rubber on them.
That makes sense, I thought yhe fingerprints where just from dust. But wd40 would do the same. I just thought id pipe up since I just got done doing mine on my z31. Exterior wasnt bad but polishing the interior w/ a 3" buffer made for some odd angles and a hurt back (the windscreen and rear hatch especially)
Quality work like always, Jeff. I've never seen an unnotched hub, actually. But then, I've never changed bearings on anything newer than a 1998 model. Piping for plumbing has some nice end-caps and couplers that are way cheaper to buy for pressing purposes than oversized sockets, making them a great alternative. Also, check out Urchfab's mx5/ford 100 Mongrel build! Insane progress being made.
The 911 didn't which made it a pain in the butt to change.
Hi Jeff, Make sure the brake fluid reservoir, has enough capacity to supply fluid to the 4 pot caliper upgrade.
Haircut time Jeff, car looks good, Mrs Jeff will love it
It is actually ;)
Well done. You know the difference between a split pin and a clevis pin. So few do.
Great work again Jeff! Just as I was about to comment if you wouldn't fancy to dust the car off, you did just that... looking forward to coilovers for some stance and the choice of wheels you are going to make!
Working on my z while watching you work on yours lol
I do the exact thing
I wish he were my neighbor... Hmmmm Mrs. Jeff,.... I see why he's smiling....
Hi Jeff ,i think 240Z and 260Z have 8.5mm different hubs heights.
Brakes , it all comes down to tyre grip, with semi slicks you actually need less rear brake
because of more weight transfer to front
God bless you. Them sneezes are terrible and give me an ear ache lol I hate sneezing.
The car is looking. amazing
From what I read the 6mm spacer is supposed to go behind the disc, moving the disc out for the caliper will fit.
Nice brakes! Worthwhile upgrade I would say. the tailights came out well, amazing how a clean and spray with clear coat fixes them. Penkse was devious swapping the race car numbers...hehe Must be a lot of dust in that shed eh Mrs Jeff....
The lights amazed me too. I first thought they were old and faded and would need to be replaced. They look great and saved a heap of money.
Datchoo-datchoo-datchoo. My dust collecting Datsun makes me sneeze too. 🤣
Solid upgrade Jeff!
Love the big brakes! Gonna need 'em for those big burnouts.
Haha, as long as everything I have done holds together ;)
Nice brake conversion Jeff!! Car should stop well now. Tiger.
HI Jeff , recheck your inner wheel bearing is pressed all the way, as even that size nut should be down past the split pin holes.
By about 3mm, the same as your disc is out by 3mm
I will check it, but that would make the disc further out. I did look and I was pretty sure the bearings were all the way in, but the fact that the nut doesn't fit makes me think the same thing.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff It will make the disc further in . I like to tap them in with a pin punch,as the sound changers
when they bottom out
Yes, the issue is that they are already too far in with the current 17mm spacers. I have now ordered the 260z spacers which are 9mm looks like it will sit at the exact right spot.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff that will move the disc out 8mm . both disc and hub nut need to move in about 3mm
that points it inner wheel bearing not in far enough
After re-measuring it, the 8mm looks about right.
Boy, it sure looks like it is much nicer working on brakes at chest level!
Oh yeah. I am so in love with the lift!
Research . your struts 240Z 51mm/260Z 55mm tube OD. Both have the same wheel bearings and brake caliper.
You do have 240Z hubs as they are smaller with a 52mm high disc and
260Z have larger hubs with a 42.5mm high disc
Interesting. My struts are 51mm...
I would advise going back and installing the taillight gaskets, those fumes are killer in the Z's.
They are in there, I just reused the old ones.
I learned what crenelations are today.
Only 30c, 8 above in the UK and raining!
my wife does not like me putting my hub in her oven too
Looking good!
Didn't have a castlated nut but a castlated washer that slips over the nut.
Nice SWR extractors, glad you got the right manifold too haha, going Weber 40s or 45?
45mm OER
Re tail-lights. Man, they look like new ones. Cost usd $500 or so for reproductions here. But for that you can get the JDM style with yellow turn signals. Here we have red on tops and bottoms.
But you need rubber seals between the tail lights snd the metal of the body. Or did you just use silicone sealant?
Same for headlight pans to the back of the buckets. Otherwise you get “leaks & squeaks.
I reused the old ones ;)
oh and just drill the calibers that will be fine
regards
Sören
Jeff, I have been watching a lot of your 240z videos and there are a tone of audio issues. Some times there is audio and some time it cuts out.
Stupid copyright strikes. Sorry.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff some of it cuts out when your talking. It's not just the music.
Bless you Mrs Jeff, Those new brakes will give you a lot more stopping power but how is the fitment in the wheel rims.
That is one of the benefits. They fit under factory rims.
Hey Jeff, have I missed something, where is your Porsche engine ?
Still in the USA I think... Or possibly on the boat to Australia.
Dipping the car in acid to reduce weight until the metal is paper thin. That's one of the craziest things I've heard. So you add roll cage cuz now the car is too flimsy.
Ok I've been watching for months, and still haven't worked it out. Why do you keep referring to your 240z as 'the 680'? I'm stumped!
You must have missed those episodes ;) 24oz = 680g
Bummer about the shocks, but aren't you upgrading the suspension?? Are you doing rear disc conversion?
I mentioned in this video that I am getting coil overs ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff sorry!! Was multi tasking while watching the video lol!! Thanx!
+1 on dipping in acid
Why do you need larger brakes? are you racing the car? I had an s30 with the toyota calipers and the 15/16" master cylinder and did not like how much pedal pressure it took compared to the stock setup.
greg h because TH-cam!
Because I have made a bunch of performance upgrades, and this is cheaper than performance brake pads.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff But if not paired correctly with the right components you've just added unsprung weight and thrown off your entire braking system effectiveness.
Your car of course but I would have shaved the antenna hole
I thought about it, but I really wanted a decent radio.
ermm.. I think you missed the paint primer for the quarter windows???
Silicon primer** I mean hah
? I primed and painted them a month or so ago.
where you buy the parts for the 240z
Do you have a link for the brakes and disc setup. looking at same thing for my 180Bsss
I talk about all of the bits in the videos
@@HomeBuiltByJeff Thanks Jeff I've check over the video a few times. A web link would be great if possible.
what kind of glue are u using for the windows and tail lights??
Sikaflex
So apparently Ms Jeff's accent is Kiwi. I thought Jeff had an Australian accent, but my bro said he's Kiwi as well. I think they live in Sydney.
Can anyone confirm if Jeff is Aussie or Kiwi?
I'm Aussie, Mrs Jeff is Kiwi ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff I knew it, ha! Now I get to show my bro your videos to prove he was wrong :)
Haha. Merry Christmas
how mutch tonn is that press?
6t
@@HomeBuiltByJeff thank you!
THEY TALK TOO MUCH