This is awesome. Especially because it’s a lefty! I have an old school Ray Cook Billy Baroo putter that I’ve always had that I have been meaning to restore. Got it from my Dad, who is a lefty like me, so I have just always used it. This has inspired me!
I've putt with it before and after making the insert. It made it a more firm, audible click off the face. Feels pretty good really. And it was a gift for my brother. He loves it!
In this instance it changed the feel because I changed the actual insert. But most Restores no there's no affect on the feel. And I've restored a set of irons before but only because they were unplated Stainless steel blades. Other style irons are mostly chrome and nickel plated so i dont mess with them much.
I don't use the dremel all that often but the drum wheels are anywhere from 60 grit to 240 grit. But hand sanding is absolutely necessary also after using a dremel.
Did you fill the entire face insert area with epoxy? I'm doing a similar rebuild right now and I'm not sure how to fill in the face insert to put a urethan insert in
Yes. You would just have to fill it to match the depth of whatever insert you have. These Factory Inserts were also poured so any Inserts you're using might not fit. Definitely need to test fit them first.
I’m looking to do a black patina on a odyssey putter I’m doing. Does it have to be sand blasted prior to trying to the patina? What are your suggestions? ALSO is your new idea for the cerakote for the finish on the putter or for the paint for the words? What is cerakote? It seems much more difficult to use in your Nike putter restoration
It's suggested to be blasted prior but it just needed to be absolutely clean from anything in order to get a good finish. And yes Cerakote is a whole process that takes time and practice to be done properly.
Poured it until it was close, then while it was still liquid, used the popsicle stick to remove it until it was level. Insert is still going strong to this day. My brother is still using it.
What did you shine the metal up with and take the divots out with,it looks like a sharpening wheel that you might use for sharpening knives or blades unless it was a sanding wheel? Thanks
When you dye and pour an insert with epoxy, is the epoxy the same as shaft epoxy or another type? Thanks Also any tricks in mixing the Mica powder so i dont screw it up?
thank you. many years ago i used epoxy to fill inserts in persimmon woods then hand filed them down. How do you finish your poured inserts and polish?@@igolf906
I am doing the same thing to my scotty right now same exact black stainless patina. I first made sure to clean it thoroughly and I just used a plastic tray and put the putter head in there and let it sit. after awhile I took it out and dried it off with a towel... now it looks dull and blotchy any ideas why?
I coated it, and steel wooled it multiple times to get a nice even finish. It was dull also, I put a light coat of clear on this putter. I will slowly be moving into powdercoating but. This worked out ok.
@@phettaepolchantara8122 I haven't yet trialed my powder coater yet on a putter, so I will have to get back to you about that. Thats a little disappointing that acetone took the powder coat off! 🤔
It's just the small drum sander. And I'm not sure what grit they are. I believe they're the standard that comes in the kit. Probably 80 grit. Pretty rough. You can get fiber drums but I hand sanded the rest.
Hey. Looking for some advice please. I can't get the stainless black in the UK & the product I thought would work the same really hasn't done anything. Do you have any products I could try?
Try this. Caswell has some of the best finishing options in the World. I've never used this particular product but I bet it's of the same quality or better than the Sculpt I used. www.caswelleurope.co.uk/stainless-steel-blackener-1-litre/
Thank you! Its actually called a Convolute Wheel. Or a deburring wheel. Its a very dense, but soft material that blends, and polishes steel quite nicely.
I poured the face originally, but I had done a paint job on the putter that I didn't like the results, so had to sand everything back. So I drilled out the top layer of the face and re-poured
What clear coat did you use and how long until it was hard enough for play. I just cold blued one of my putters and I feel like even the blueing comes off if I’m not careful
I just used a standard spray paint clear coat. And just a very thin layer. Just for a little added protection to the black patina. The black patina is decently durable on its own so. The clear coat just protected it a bit more. Currently, for any black finishes I do from now on, will be cerakote. Super durable baked finish.
@@igolf906 Not familiar with this but all you do is brush it on? Am on there Web site now and have no idea what am buying? Just buy the traditional black pantina?
@@johnguelfo3067 Yes it should say in each product what metals they're good for. All I did was use a foam brush and brush it on. Get it fully coated and let it sit just for a minute. Rinse it with water, and steel wool it. And repeat. The more you do it the more even color you get. I sandblasted this particular one so the finish turned out very even, but dull, matte. I'm sure you could polish something and have it look glossy. But have to make sure its very very clean when you're putting the patina on.
Its a convolute wheel. They're essentiallly made of fibers, with resin bonded abrasives inside. Making it a softer, conforming wheel, that can still remove materials, and polish. Unlike hard stone wheels.
Everything I use is in my video descriptions. Check them out. I hope you're not using a stone wheel as that will ruin your putter. I use convolute/deburring wheels
My plan was to powder coat the putter black for a super durable finish. That would involve baking it so I had to remove the insert regardless as it was a soft resin type plastic. I did NOT know that it was originally a poured insert so, I had to improvise. And the resin face actually feels softer than you may think. My brother used it for the first time yesterday and loves it.
If we don't have the capability to use the black shrink tube with a heat gun, but still want that satin finish look on the shaft, what do you recommend as another option to achieve that look? Would acrylic spray paint hold?
Years ago I spray painted my brothers putter all black. If you prep it and clean it well it will last awhile, but eventually will start to nick and wear out.
Is there a hardware store u can buy the steel blackener? Or best to just order online? U think a stainless steel shaft can be blackened this way too? Lastly, how long u think the finish will remain for a putter using it a couple times a week. Thanks and excellent work, keep posting cool videos. They are very helpful.
You will have to order something like that for sure. And I don't think shafts are stainless steel. They are chrome plated steel in which the stainless Black will not work. And my brother has been using his since this video and still looks like it did when I finished it. Just need to take care of it and use a headcover
I leveled the putter prior to make sure it was as flat as possible. I also warmed up the epoxy so it could flow better. From there I used the popsicle stick to take out some of the epoxy so it butt up with the face as perfect as I could get. My brother still uses this putter today and its great!
@@igolf906 I run a Cerakote coating company and I’m doing one like it for my daughter. It belonged to her late Grandfather so it will be special to her. I found there are some inserts you can buy but you have to clamp the insert off and fill the cavity from the shaft hole I’m guessing. Not sure which route to take
Yes, some are tricky with the inserts. I had to do the same with an old piece of shaft. And Cerakote is the way to go! I solely use Cerakote for all colored restores now. @@stevenrandolph2011
If you mean the factory paint, I first tried a paint stripper, which didn't work so well. So I then soaked it in acetone and had to wire brush the remaining paint off.
They're called convolute wheels, or deburring wheels. I got them from SuperGrit and they're amazing!! 3M sells them but they're between $40 and $60 a piece. Mines a 6" and they're $15-$20 in all different grits.
@@patrickreinking2721 I have 100, 220, and 400. The 100 is very rough and does quick work, but I would suggest just using something around 200 to start. They have a 150 that I may try out also.
I've only taken a few putts with it because it's my brothers putter. He loves it. And the little I putt with it, it didn't feel bad. Would think it would be mushy but had a nice click off the face.
Paint for the finish or the actual paintfill? This was a stainless dye. But anything I do in black now gets cerakote. A much smoother, way more durable finish. And the paintfill paint is just Testors.
@@igolf906 thanks for the quick reply... Paint for both actually. It's a red Taylormade Ardmore but has plenty of dings and scratches. I'm from Ireland so it would need to be very strongly weather resistant
How many RPM is your bench grinder please give me some details about it. I think my bench grinder is small and weak. So I might buy the same one as you if its more powerful than. Mine
I made sure the epoxy was warm, and the putter was leveled before pouring. It's nearly perfectly flat. As for the putter itself, it was for my brother. And he has no complaints! I putt a few with it before giving it to him and wasn't bad. Sort of a soft click off the face.
I picked those up at SuperGrit. Theyre Convolute wheels and they're amazing! They do so much work easily. They grind and polish all in one. About $15 for the 6x1x1. I got them in 3 different grits.
@@tylerklasko2520 I have 100, 220 & 400. I used all 3, but the 100 grit is used for very heavy gouging. Depending on what you're working on, the 220 might work fine. They also have grits in between. Like 120 and 150.
My brother's been gaming it for almost two years now and loves it. I bet 95% of casual golfers wouldn't notice the difference between the two resin inserts. 🤷♂️ Even for me, it actually felt pretty good off the face.
Thank you! Sandblasting opens up the metal better for that type of patina stain. Its not absolutely necessary, but since I have access, its the quickest way to get a good surface. But sanding by hand and getting it VERY clean is the most important.
Thanks for the response. I have my new insert coming from SpryEvo. Charles did say the removal is difficult and he typically drills out the faces until no material left.
The original insert was not textured. And for ball roll, I wouldn't say the roll was affected but the sound definitely changed. More of a soft click now compared to how it was.
No. I leveled the putter prior to pouring the insert. I also warmed up the epoxy enough to make it more fluid. It leveled itself out nicely, and also kept the factory loft.
@@igolf906 this was (unsurprisingly) entirely my fault. lesson learned: read the sculpt nouveau product descriptions carefully - not all of the stains work on stainless steel.
I'm not sure what you mean, but I did level of the putter prior to pouring the epoxy. Also the epoxy was warm, so it leveled itself out after the pour. Leaving the face nice and square
Great job, looks great. Did that insert material change the club in any way? Did it change the swing weight of the putter or the way the ball comes off the face when you putt? I suppose you could adapt to anything, including sound, but changing the material that actually strikes the ball seems inadvisable to me.
Works perfectly fine! Weight of the putter barely changed. Maybe a few grams difference. And the feel off the face in my opinion is great! I like a little click off the face, but still feel a bit soft. But, this was for my brother, so all that matters is he likes it, which he does.
I replied to an earlier response of yours but. Its actually softer than you may think. My brother used this yesterday for the first time and loves it. Its a nice soft click off the face which he likes.
@@igolf906 so take dykem blue or red use a dropper and fill it up. I heard thats what the cameron custom shop uses on the big dots. Or the semi transparent dots.
@@obsidian7644 For that transparent color like Scotty uses, I use a paint call Tamiya. Its a very glossy translucent enamel. Actually redid the 3 Dots on the back of a Newport with them. Looked good! I have blue, green and red. But for colors that pop and are very bright over dark finishes, I use the Testors.
@@igolf906 yea testors is best for most people i would agree, i get the testors thinner and do the white lines on irons in the bottom groove. Or any black i use testors.
Assuming it was a typical insert, most of them can be put right back in, and\or replaced. And because I planned on doing a powder coat finish on this, I would have had to bake it, therefore the insert would have melted anyways. This one turned out to be a poured insert, which I learned the hard way, but I improvised. Btw, my brothers been using this putter ever since, and loves it.
@@igolf906 Thank you for your response. I have the original Rossi and put it back in use the last few years. I love it blemishes and all. But, you did a tremendous restoration of the putter.
@@jimmartin5098 Thank you! I actually picked up two more of these and will be trying some new things with them. Will attempt to keep the inserts intact this time ;)
@@jimmartin5098 Thanks so much! Taking suggestions also! A subscriber suggested the torched blue TP Mills putter and turned out awesome! I may do a few more like that, as long as they dont have plastic/rubber inserts.
This is awesome. Especially because it’s a lefty! I have an old school Ray Cook Billy Baroo putter that I’ve always had that I have been meaning to restore. Got it from my Dad, who is a lefty like me, so I have just always used it. This has inspired me!
polishing the steel on that wheel was very satisfying. also that pour of the face turned out b-e-a utiful! nice job!
As a fellow lefty I salute you. Great job! Love the black finish and the putter face. Very well done!
Got the exact same putter and now fancying changing it to look something similar... good work
Very cool!
@@igolf906 shame I don't quite have the skills of you to do this😂
@@oliverbrown4601 Nah. If I can do it anyone can. Just takes time, and a lot of watching TH-cam videos 🤣
Looks amazing! I have the same putter! First one I ever bought! Needs refurb
Outstanding Work!
Thank you!
dang! great job bro!!
Thank you! My brother is still using this and loves it!
Wow, you crushed it!!
Thank you!
What grit was your grinding wheel to get that clean of a finish ?
Was probably 180-240 grit. My most commonly used.
Beautiful, thank you? Could you specify the products and the amounts you use to produce the epoxy mixture? thank you!
It was a simple two part epoxy mixed with powdered pigment.
@@igolf906 Isn't the curated final feel of the resine like glass? Shouldn't we add some rubber powder to make it a little flexible?
@VictoriaNovilloSaravia No. It doesn't feel anything like glass. It's much softer than that. Almost like any other polymer or resin type insert.
What Grit Sandpaper was used?
For the rear cavity, was 220
@@igolf906 2 years later and you still respond, respect. And thank you for that info!
In order foe the patina to activate do you need to bead blast the putter or would only sanding work?
Just sanding would work, it just won't be as uniform of a finish. Most importantly needs to be a clean surface.
Amazing job, but wouldn't that insert have totally different feel and roll characteristics which could actually affect putting?
I've putt with it before and after making the insert. It made it a more firm, audible click off the face. Feels pretty good really. And it was a gift for my brother. He loves it!
Yes, it looks excellent, but changing materials is a bit of a risk. If they sold that insert material it would be more comforting.
What kind of wheel was on that bench grinder?
They're convolute/deburring wheels. Check any of my newer videos I have all the wheels I use listed in the description.
@@igolf906 thanks! I'll check those videos out for sure.
Wow that was awesome, really great content! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you! Stay tuned. Video coming out in the next hour you won't want to miss!
Does this change how the clubs play, could you do it with irons?
In this instance it changed the feel because I changed the actual insert. But most Restores no there's no affect on the feel. And I've restored a set of irons before but only because they were unplated Stainless steel blades. Other style irons are mostly chrome and nickel plated so i dont mess with them much.
Awesome results
I have that exact putter. I’d love to know someone who could restore mine that way. Excellent video, the putter looks beautiful. Thanks
Shoot me an email. We cant talk about it!
Absolutely amazing job man. Love that insert and the whole process. How does it feel compared to the original?
Thanks. It may feel slightly more firm than the original but overall still felt pretty good.
What grit sand paper did you use with the dremel. I’m struggling to get a nice consistency with it.
I don't use the dremel all that often but the drum wheels are anywhere from 60 grit to 240 grit. But hand sanding is absolutely necessary also after using a dremel.
what kind of wheel was that
It's a convolute/deburring wheel. Check my newer video descriptions it has links to all my tools and materials.
Did you fill the entire face insert area with epoxy? I'm doing a similar rebuild right now and I'm not sure how to fill in the face insert to put a urethan insert in
Yes. You would just have to fill it to match the depth of whatever insert you have. These Factory Inserts were also poured so any Inserts you're using might not fit. Definitely need to test fit them first.
For the face did you use the same epoxy as your assembly epoxy or did you use a thicker resin type mix
I use Brampton Club epoxy for all assembly. The face insert I used a high strength Loctite Epoxy.
What did you use to take off excess testors paint?
Acetone
I’m looking to do a black patina on a odyssey putter I’m doing. Does it have to be sand blasted prior to trying to the patina? What are your suggestions? ALSO is your new idea for the cerakote for the finish on the putter or for the paint for the words? What is cerakote? It seems much more difficult to use in your Nike putter restoration
It's suggested to be blasted prior but it just needed to be absolutely clean from anything in order to get a good finish. And yes Cerakote is a whole process that takes time and practice to be done properly.
How did you measure the epoxy to get it flush?
Poured it until it was close, then while it was still liquid, used the popsicle stick to remove it until it was level. Insert is still going strong to this day. My brother is still using it.
What did you shine the metal up with and take the divots out with,it looks like a sharpening wheel that you might use for sharpening knives or blades unless it was a sanding wheel? Thanks
It's a convolute/deburring wheel. Check any of my newer videos in the description I have all the tools and materials I use.
폴리싱할때 연마돌은 몇을사용하는가요
What do you use to dye the epoxy. It looked like a powder? thanks
Yes it's called a Mica Powder. The brand I use I believe is called Jacquard? Some cool colors you can make.
@@igolf906 thank you
When you dye and pour an insert with epoxy, is the epoxy the same as shaft epoxy or another type? Thanks Also any tricks in mixing the Mica powder so i dont screw it up?
@@donhampton7174 no I used a long cure loctite epoxy. And you just mix in it with a popsicle stick.
thank you. many years ago i used epoxy to fill inserts in persimmon woods then hand filed them down. How do you finish your poured inserts and polish?@@igolf906
I am doing the same thing to my scotty right now same exact black stainless patina. I first made sure to clean it thoroughly and I just used a plastic tray and put the putter head in there and let it sit. after awhile I took it out and dried it off with a towel... now it looks dull and blotchy any ideas why?
I coated it, and steel wooled it multiple times to get a nice even finish. It was dull also, I put a light coat of clear on this putter. I will slowly be moving into powdercoating but. This worked out ok.
@@igolf906 what do u use to wipe off the paint fill for powdercoated putter? i use acetone and the powdercoat came off also.
@@phettaepolchantara8122 I haven't yet trialed my powder coater yet on a putter, so I will have to get back to you about that. Thats a little disappointing that acetone took the powder coat off! 🤔
@@igolf906 ok. thank you
Awesome restoration, I just want to know what kind of stone you use on your wheel to polish it because i want to restore a rossie 1 i bought
It's a convolute/deburring wheel. A stone would ruin the putter.
what attachments do you use on your dremel? what grit sand wheels?
It's just the small drum sander. And I'm not sure what grit they are. I believe they're the standard that comes in the kit. Probably 80 grit. Pretty rough. You can get fiber drums but I hand sanded the rest.
what is the putter face insert?
It's poured epoxy resin
Hey. Looking for some advice please. I can't get the stainless black in the UK & the product I thought would work the same really hasn't done anything. Do you have any products I could try?
Try this. Caswell has some of the best finishing options in the World. I've never used this particular product but I bet it's of the same quality or better than the Sculpt I used.
www.caswelleurope.co.uk/stainless-steel-blackener-1-litre/
is that a nylon fiber wheel?
It is yes. Its a convolute or deburring wheel. But it is fiber. There may be different types. But nylon is the most common I believe.
What polishing wheel is that it looked great.
Thank you! Its actually called a Convolute Wheel. Or a deburring wheel. Its a very dense, but soft material that blends, and polishes steel quite nicely.
Hi,looks great,what did you add to epoxy metallic purple look? thanks
Pearl Ex. It's a powdered pigment for glues and epoxies.
@@igolf906 Thanks for the fast response.God Bless
Can you send a link to the wheel you used on your bench grinder?
Check any of my more recent videos. There's links to everything in there.
At this time, what kind of work was done before the epoxy swelling and then the second epoxy work?
If so, what is the reason?
I poured the face originally, but I had done a paint job on the putter that I didn't like the results, so had to sand everything back. So I drilled out the top layer of the face and re-poured
What clear coat did you use and how long until it was hard enough for play. I just cold blued one of my putters and I feel like even the blueing comes off if I’m not careful
I just used a standard spray paint clear coat. And just a very thin layer. Just for a little added protection to the black patina. The black patina is decently durable on its own so. The clear coat just protected it a bit more.
Currently, for any black finishes I do from now on, will be cerakote. Super durable baked finish.
What was the stainless dye you used
My secret weapon.... 😏 lol. JK. Its a product from a company call Sculpt Nouveau. They have patinas and dyes for all kinds of metals!
@@igolf906 Not familiar with this but all you do is brush it on? Am on there Web site now and have no idea what am buying? Just buy the traditional black pantina?
@@johnguelfo3067 Yes it should say in each product what metals they're good for. All I did was use a foam brush and brush it on. Get it fully coated and let it sit just for a minute. Rinse it with water, and steel wool it. And repeat. The more you do it the more even color you get. I sandblasted this particular one so the finish turned out very even, but dull, matte. I'm sure you could polish something and have it look glossy. But have to make sure its very very clean when you're putting the patina on.
shrink tube diameter ?
5/8". Make sure to get the 3:1 shrink ratio. I find they fit a lot better and there's much less change for wrinkles.
So freaking cool! Well done mate!!
Thank you!
Sweet restoration, sub added!
Thanks
Amazing job, I would be scared that I wouldn’t get the shaft lined up correctly after removal.
Thank you! It's a little difficult but there are a few tricks.
Absolutely fantastic!
What is the wheel you are using? is it a stone of aluminium oxide?
Its a convolute wheel. They're essentiallly made of fibers, with resin bonded abrasives inside. Making it a softer, conforming wheel, that can still remove materials, and polish. Unlike hard stone wheels.
amzn.to/3B7xipd
These are the exact ones I've been using. They work great and they're inexpensive.
Hi mate great video, what grit is the buffer wheel on this? I'm using an 80 grit and seems to be scratching!
Everything I use is in my video descriptions. Check them out. I hope you're not using a stone wheel as that will ruin your putter. I use convolute/deburring wheels
What was the loft after it was finished?
The factory loft I believe was 3*. So when I poured the epoxy face I leveled it out to match the factory loft.
Love this!
Thank you!
What type of wheel did you use to remove all the dings? Great resto
Thanks! If you check out any of my newer videos, I list all of my current tools and equipment in the description!
What kind of wheel do you use ? Please 🤩
It's a Convolute wheel. Check my newer videos descriptions, they have links on where to get them.
Love this! What do you use to apply the black dye?
I used just a standard foam brush.
What kind of epoxy ingredients should be prepared?
Standard 2 part epoxy and Jacqaurd Pearl Ex dye.
@@igolf906 I want to know the brand and details of the actual two-liquid epoxy and dye used in the video
www.jbweld.com/product/clearweld-pro-size
www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex
Why did you remove the insert? Changes everything about the putter
My plan was to powder coat the putter black for a super durable finish. That would involve baking it so I had to remove the insert regardless as it was a soft resin type plastic. I did NOT know that it was originally a poured insert so, I had to improvise. And the resin face actually feels softer than you may think. My brother used it for the first time yesterday and loves it.
If we don't have the capability to use the black shrink tube with a heat gun, but still want that satin finish look on the shaft, what do you recommend as another option to achieve that look? Would acrylic spray paint hold?
Years ago I spray painted my brothers putter all black. If you prep it and clean it well it will last awhile, but eventually will start to nick and wear out.
I want to know the brand of epoxy I want to restore it I want to know. How did you mix epoxy?
Cool video! What did you use to get the excess paint off? Paint thinner? Surprised it didn't mess with the stain at all.
Acetone. And no surprisingly didn't affect the dye. But I've since switched to cerakote so don't have to worry about any of that anymore. 🙂
@@igolf906 nice! I'm wanting to paint my red odyssey logo blue, so this video really helped!
@@travismj33 glad to help!
On that wheel you have ...did you use the 5P , 7P or other?
Looking back at my wheels, they are 7P. I didn't even notice it until I went back and looked. I thought that was 3M's charting numbers.
Is there a hardware store u can buy the steel blackener? Or best to just order online? U think a stainless steel shaft can be blackened this way too? Lastly, how long u think the finish will remain for a putter using it a couple times a week. Thanks and excellent work, keep posting cool videos. They are very helpful.
You will have to order something like that for sure. And I don't think shafts are stainless steel. They are chrome plated steel in which the stainless Black will not work. And my brother has been using his since this video and still looks like it did when I finished it. Just need to take care of it and use a headcover
How did you get the epoxy on the face so flat ? Seems too little or too much could cause issues but yours looks laser flat
I leveled the putter prior to make sure it was as flat as possible. I also warmed up the epoxy so it could flow better. From there I used the popsicle stick to take out some of the epoxy so it butt up with the face as perfect as I could get. My brother still uses this putter today and its great!
@@igolf906 I run a Cerakote coating company and I’m doing one like it for my daughter. It belonged to her late Grandfather so it will be special to her. I found there are some inserts you can buy but you have to clamp the insert off and fill the cavity from the shaft hole I’m guessing. Not sure which route to take
Yes, some are tricky with the inserts. I had to do the same with an old piece of shaft. And Cerakote is the way to go! I solely use Cerakote for all colored restores now. @@stevenrandolph2011
What did you wipe the over paint off with??
If you mean the factory paint, I first tried a paint stripper, which didn't work so well. So I then soaked it in acetone and had to wire brush the remaining paint off.
@@igolf906 i meant the testors sorry.
@@frankcastle29 Oh to clean up the paint fill? I used acetone also. Just used small pieces of paper town and lightly wipe it to clean up the fill.
What wheel did you use to remove dings and scratches?
They're called convolute wheels, or deburring wheels. I got them from SuperGrit and they're amazing!! 3M sells them but they're between $40 and $60 a piece. Mines a 6" and they're $15-$20 in all different grits.
@@igolf906 awesome thank you, what grits would you recommend?
@@patrickreinking2721 I have 100, 220, and 400. The 100 is very rough and does quick work, but I would suggest just using something around 200 to start. They have a 150 that I may try out also.
Very nice, I wish I had the time and patience.
I dig that insert. Now I see why Odyssey wants nothing to do with restoration. That's a lot of work
Thanks! I planned to replace that insert with a factory one but, had no idea it was a poured insert until I attempted to remove it. So I improvised!
that "insert" is not level. and is not a good "putting" surface now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can't figure out what you used for the purple insert? @@igolf906
Love these vids
Thank you!
It’s the sort of job that I would thoroughly enjoy doing as you have to be meticulous to do it 👍
Nice black shaft bro!
😏
Just watched your restoration of the odyssey putter I have one exactly like it what material did you use for the insert
It's quick but it looks like he used a standard two part epoxy. Maybe JB Weld brand from the looks of it?
Yes, I used standard 2 part epoxy.
Quite interested to know what the feel is like with that epoxy face?
I've only taken a few putts with it because it's my brothers putter. He loves it. And the little I putt with it, it didn't feel bad. Would think it would be mushy but had a nice click off the face.
@@igolf906 awesome thank you for sharing, I’m restoring an odyssey 2ball currently with the same face, so will try epoxy also.
Love the final finish. Could I ask what paint you would recommend? I want to restore my putter to its original colours
Paint for the finish or the actual paintfill? This was a stainless dye. But anything I do in black now gets cerakote. A much smoother, way more durable finish. And the paintfill paint is just Testors.
@@igolf906 thanks for the quick reply... Paint for both actually. It's a red Taylormade Ardmore but has plenty of dings and scratches. I'm from Ireland so it would need to be very strongly weather resistant
Very nice!
What is the name of that wheel you used to get all the dents and scratches off?
Its a convolute wheel, or a deburring wheel!
How many RPM is your bench grinder please give me some details about it. I think my bench grinder is small and weak. So I might buy the same one as you if its more powerful than. Mine
@@HugeLag1 Its a 3/4 HP bench grinder that runs at 3600rpm.
Was your putter stainless or carbon steel? Debating trying to use gun blue but only works on carbon not on SS
This putter is stainless steel. That's why I used the special Stainless Black solution
How was the face finished ?
The important bit …
It was a custom poured polymer. Leveled out flat. Lightly touched with a torch to release any bubbles and keep it glossy.
This was awesome. How has it putted. I was little concerned about the curve of the epoxy on the face not being perfectly flat
I made sure the epoxy was warm, and the putter was leveled before pouring. It's nearly perfectly flat. As for the putter itself, it was for my brother. And he has no complaints! I putt a few with it before giving it to him and wasn't bad. Sort of a soft click off the face.
Where did you purchase that sanding wheel to initially sand down the head? That looked awesome
I picked those up at SuperGrit. Theyre Convolute wheels and they're amazing! They do so much work easily. They grind and polish all in one. About $15 for the 6x1x1. I got them in 3 different grits.
Awesome I appreciate that! Gona go grab some. What grit did you use for the one in this vid? Or did you use multiple?
@@tylerklasko2520 I have 100, 220 & 400. I used all 3, but the 100 grit is used for very heavy gouging. Depending on what you're working on, the 220 might work fine. They also have grits in between. Like 120 and 150.
Where are you located
@@abdrazak08 I believe his latest Golf video mentions hes in Michigan.
Would love to buy this putter!
Thanks! But this was a one-off for my brother.
Looks great, how did it work on the greens?
I did this one for my brother. He's loving it so far! I made few putts with it at home before giving it to him and it actually felt pretty good!
It looks cool, but is it as good as the original
My brother's been gaming it for almost two years now and loves it. I bet 95% of casual golfers wouldn't notice the difference between the two resin inserts. 🤷♂️ Even for me, it actually felt pretty good off the face.
@igolf906 Thanks for letting me know. I bought the same putter at a garage sale for $20, and I really like it. But it would be nice to restore it
@@igolf906I also like the history of the putter, Nick Faldo won the 1996 Masters with the same exact putter!
@@ross1880 Very cool!
The face looks amazing
Thank you!
Amazing job, are you aware if you HAVE to sand blast? Specifically curious if you have to for the patina.
Thank you! Sandblasting opens up the metal better for that type of patina stain. Its not absolutely necessary, but since I have access, its the quickest way to get a good surface. But sanding by hand and getting it VERY clean is the most important.
Thanks for the response. I have my new insert coming from SpryEvo. Charles did say the removal is difficult and he typically drills out the faces until no material left.
Looks great! Motivated me to get to work on some of my old clubs. Was the original insert textured? Did the new insert being smooth effect ball roll?
The original insert was not textured. And for ball roll, I wouldn't say the roll was affected but the sound definitely changed. More of a soft click now compared to how it was.
Sweet job man 👌
Thank you!
Did you sand the new “insert” to be flush with the face? All-in-all stellar job, looks absolutely amazing
No. I leveled the putter prior to pouring the insert. I also warmed up the epoxy enough to make it more fluid. It leveled itself out nicely, and also kept the factory loft.
OMG - makes me wanna send my TM Spyder EX to you to be repainted
I no longer use this method. But I do Cerakote though. Which is more durable in my opinion.
@@igolf906 Okay. Think I wanna attempt it myself. Maybe I can make it look half decent.
That insert is freaking awesome!!!
Thanks!
Dope!
Thanks!
I love that stainless dye. Would it still have worked if you didnt sandblast it? Or does the blasting only impact the finish?
I would still work. Just wouldn't be as uniform of a finish.
I just tried this after refinishing without sandblasting and got no color change. Guessing I need to sand blast?
@@scootification depends on if it's the same model putter. Could have a coating of some sort I don't know.
@@igolf906 this was (unsurprisingly) entirely my fault. lesson learned: read the sculpt nouveau product descriptions carefully - not all of the stains work on stainless steel.
Nice!
Thanks!
When working on epoxy on the head face, I saw that it was set to a certain height
I'm not sure what you mean, but I did level of the putter prior to pouring the epoxy. Also the epoxy was warm, so it leveled itself out after the pour. Leaving the face nice and square
Great job, looks great. Did that insert material change the club in any way? Did it change the swing weight of the putter or the way the ball comes off the face when you putt? I suppose you could adapt to anything, including sound, but changing the material that actually strikes the ball seems inadvisable to me.
Works perfectly fine! Weight of the putter barely changed. Maybe a few grams difference. And the feel off the face in my opinion is great! I like a little click off the face, but still feel a bit soft. But, this was for my brother, so all that matters is he likes it, which he does.
clean!
Thank you!
I want to learn how to work on epoxy on the head face more delicately I want to learn what kind of ingredients and mixes they made
I used standard 2 part epoxy that you can get from any hardware store for the face. And then I use Jacquard Pearl Ex powder dye for the color.
Sorry 😢 but it looks good - however, you kill the putter by pulling out insert and putting hard resin face?
I replied to an earlier response of yours but. Its actually softer than you may think. My brother used this yesterday for the first time and loves it. Its a nice soft click off the face which he likes.
Machinist dye is the best way to paint fill if you want it to last, its what scotty cameron uses i believe. But beautiful job.
Really? Never heard of it for paintfill. The only machinist dye I've heard of or had myself was Dykem blue for marking parts 🤔
@@igolf906 they have red blue and probably other colors, there is also opaque epoxys which are good.
@@igolf906 so take dykem blue or red use a dropper and fill it up. I heard thats what the cameron custom shop uses on the big dots. Or the semi transparent dots.
@@obsidian7644 For that transparent color like Scotty uses, I use a paint call Tamiya. Its a very glossy translucent enamel. Actually redid the 3 Dots on the back of a Newport with them. Looked good! I have blue, green and red. But for colors that pop and are very bright over dark finishes, I use the Testors.
@@igolf906 yea testors is best for most people i would agree, i get the testors thinner and do the white lines on irons in the bottom groove. Or any black i use testors.
Wow awesome
I’m still using my putter the same as this and got a spare
I might actually pick up another one of these and do another restore eventually!
Why in the world would you take out the insert?
Assuming it was a typical insert, most of them can be put right back in, and\or replaced. And because I planned on doing a powder coat finish on this, I would have had to bake it, therefore the insert would have melted anyways. This one turned out to be a poured insert, which I learned the hard way, but I improvised. Btw, my brothers been using this putter ever since, and loves it.
@@igolf906 Thank you for your response. I have the original Rossi and put it back in use the last few years. I love it blemishes and all. But, you did a tremendous restoration of the putter.
@@jimmartin5098 Thank you! I actually picked up two more of these and will be trying some new things with them. Will attempt to keep the inserts intact this time ;)
@@igolf906 I look forward to seeing how they come out.
@@jimmartin5098 Thanks so much! Taking suggestions also! A subscriber suggested the torched blue TP Mills putter and turned out awesome! I may do a few more like that, as long as they dont have plastic/rubber inserts.
Love what you did for the insert!
Thank you!