The extra threaded holes are for getting the rotor off if it is stuck. Just like you said, put some bolts in and if you keep tightening them it will force the rotor off.
2:52... Good practice to chock the opposite side. Not really trusting the rear parking brake mechanism to hold the vehicle still while jacking the front of the vehicle?😊 I do the same when I jack up the front for oil changes 😅
Great Video. If you get a change a video on drum brakes would helpful .... for a few people... I've seen people get stuck trying to get the drums off due to the self adjusters.
Im in the salt belt... So ill add never seize compound between the brake hardware and the caliper mount to prevent rust jacking. As well as the hub to rotor surface because sometimes those two small threaded holes on the rotor may rust as well and you cant use them to separate the rotor from the hub😢
Good tips and advise. Sometimes people are giving tips and advise that are incorrect or inaccurate. What I will say is I’ve stopped putting grease on the back of pads and on the contact areas. Seen the grease harden and cause pads to stick or bind on shims/hardware. Nice to see your channel growing tho! Keep it up man!🙌
Grease can harden when you mix Silicone Grease with Petroleum based greases. Silicone when it contacts rubber, and petroleum based metal on metal. Sometimes people mix them, and they harden when they mix. Especially slide pins, and the petroleum based grease causes rubber to swell, and some slide pins have rubber sleeves that swell and seize the slide pins.
Great video, as always. Glad to see you back (looking different!) and posting again. Couple things, you "could" put so much grease on the heads of the caliper pins that they'd actually hydrolock momentarily (remote possibility, again "could"). I like to take the time to clean out the bores for the pins with brake cleaner, too. Also, a mention of brake bed-in for the customer, and you can only hope they follow it, would be good.
A day late. Did just the wife's 2016 pilot front and rear rotors and pads yesterday. Tip i learned: when putting on the clips that exert pressure on the pads, attach the caliper but just 1 bolt, swing the caliper up and clip 1 side, swap caliper bolts and repeat on the other side. Took me 30 minutes of fighting with trying to keep the pads from coming out while trying to put the caliber back on. 😂
Recently did all 4 rotors and pads on my 1 series. Has this issue where I’d have a vibration on acceleration as if the propshaft centre bearing had gone. Did the brakes and it turned out it was the discs on acceleration! Weird problem to have
That is a weird problem to have, I personally have never came across that issue before, thank you for calling it out now i have something else in my knowledge book lol
Even if you don't have rust, brakes create dust. This dust gets between the hub and rotor and causes round rotors to be tilted and out of round. The set screw also helps when you need to change a tire on the side of the road. Each time the rotor moves off the hub, it should be cleaned so a proper mating surface can be made to prevent vibrations. This set screw doesn't just protect heads on assembly lines, they makes sure your tire can be put back on without disturbing this surface between the rotor and wheel hub. Great video aside for my nitpicking.
Here is a pro tip from years of experience. Another reason why the pads wear uneven is too much grease on the pins. Grease does not compress and the pins need to go back and fourth. All you need is just a little grease on the pins.
Yeah, they're from old school... Back then, brake rotors were made better and thicker (had to operate a brake lathe in an auto parts store in the late 90s) I mean if they don't feel any wobble when brakes are applied, then a pad slap can work until the next pad change. Now, if the rotors are scored or other defects like what Ernest said (cracks or wavy surfaces) Then, actually show them the imperfections and make them sign a waiver against any warranty comebacks 😊
@@RoadsideRescue I can remember when an Aamco Brake Lathe was standard equipment in almost every shop along with a Sioux Valve Grinding Machine! I know…I’m a dinosaur! I guess with shop rates hovering around 150.00 or more an hour it’s probably cheaper to replace them. The valve machines are now obsolete because cars no,longer need valve jobs every 40,000 miles. And the beat go’s on….
Don't forget to pump the brake pedal after you install pads, (take up the slack between pad and rotor)before you get out on the road and find out you have no brakes, just when you need them!
I'll put a dab of anti seize compound just to make it easier on the next person that touches those factory set screws 😅 They are useful for German setups, where they have wheel bolts inside of lug nuts
Always use a torque wrench to set the proper ft/lb when putting tires on since uneven torque will make you have to buy new rotors or have to get them resurfaced. Honda is 80 ft/lbs and I would guess by the force you used you were an inconsistent 100 ft/lbs. Another bad habit I saw was not hanging the caliper with a hook or bungee from the dampener spring. Novices may bump the caliper off the hub and rupture the brake hose line. Other than those 2 points, it was a solid video for people wanting to learn how to do brake jobs. The only other comment would be to check the brake reservoir prior to starting to verify there is a fluid gap when you compress the pistons. Many people get brake fluid flushes and that shop may have over filled the fluid.
Bro totally skipped adding that springy thingy and collapsing the piston to account for the thicker pads. So this video is totally NOT everything you need to know before doing your brakes. For those interested search TH-cam for Royalty Auto Service and look for his video titled "How To Perform a Professional Brake Job" - for the main parts but then you may also want to watch his video titled "It’s Vibrating When Braking & It’s Not the Rotors. How to Test!" that literally covers what else could be causing vibrations when braking and how to find them and cure them. BOTH of those video give you all the information you need to diagnose and fix your brake issues.
The extra threaded holes are for getting the rotor off if it is stuck. Just like you said, put some bolts in and if you keep tightening them it will force the rotor off.
glad to know! Thanks!
2:52... Good practice to chock the opposite side.
Not really trusting the rear parking brake mechanism to hold the vehicle still while jacking the front of the vehicle?😊
I do the same when I jack up the front for oil changes 😅
Great Video. If you get a change a video on drum brakes would helpful .... for a few people... I've seen people get stuck trying to get the drums off due to the self adjusters.
Great suggestion!
Try getting the rear drums off on a rusted old Chrysler product with the big nut holding everything on!
Im in the salt belt... So ill add never seize compound between the brake hardware and the caliper mount to prevent rust jacking.
As well as the hub to rotor surface because sometimes those two small threaded holes on the rotor may rust as well and you cant use them to separate the rotor from the hub😢
Thanks
Good tips and advise. Sometimes people are giving tips and advise that are incorrect or inaccurate. What I will say is I’ve stopped putting grease on the back of pads and on the contact areas. Seen the grease harden and cause pads to stick or bind on shims/hardware. Nice to see your channel growing tho! Keep it up man!🙌
Great tip!
Grease can harden when you mix Silicone Grease with Petroleum based greases. Silicone when it contacts rubber, and petroleum based metal on metal. Sometimes people mix them, and they harden when they mix. Especially slide pins, and the petroleum based grease causes rubber to swell, and some slide pins have rubber sleeves that swell and seize the slide pins.
Honestly would have liked to see you torque everything down to specs.
oh its torqued to spec 120 dead on
That's too bad because the wheels torque to 94ft.lbs. Caliper brackets 101ft.lbs and calipers 53ft.lbs. 🤷🏽♂️
@@Joe_SIFUdaaaaamn sounds like u work for Honda u mobile???? I need work done cuh!!!!
oh ya... becuase that is normal...
@Umamalovezme its called the service manual... its like the bible for mechanics lmao
Love it brother 🔥👌
Great video, as always. Glad to see you back (looking different!) and posting again. Couple things, you "could" put so much grease on the heads of the caliper pins that they'd actually hydrolock momentarily (remote possibility, again "could"). I like to take the time to clean out the bores for the pins with brake cleaner, too. Also, a mention of brake bed-in for the customer, and you can only hope they follow it, would be good.
Thanks for the tips!
A day late. Did just the wife's 2016 pilot front and rear rotors and pads yesterday. Tip i learned: when putting on the clips that exert pressure on the pads, attach the caliper but just 1 bolt, swing the caliper up and clip 1 side, swap caliper bolts and repeat on the other side. Took me 30 minutes of fighting with trying to keep the pads from coming out while trying to put the caliber back on. 😂
Recently did all 4 rotors and pads on my 1 series. Has this issue where I’d have a vibration on acceleration as if the propshaft centre bearing had gone. Did the brakes and it turned out it was the discs on acceleration! Weird problem to have
That is a weird problem to have, I personally have never came across that issue before, thank you for calling it out now i have something else in my knowledge book lol
@@thatdusty950 to my understanding it was to do with the ABS trying to keep the car in a straight line simulating the E-Diff. Weird one!!
@@ScottPC interesting! So you did a complete brake job and it went away??
@@thatdusty950 Yup! Brought all the parts for the propshaft and now im debating even touching it! The discs clearly affected it.
100% always all the time. Don't change brakes for anyone if you don't replace or re surface the rotors.
Oh my! You've looking like me, back in the 70s. I had the tools. Used to go help folks out.
Question, do you need to compress the pistons on the calipers to change out the pads?
Yes because the new pads are a lot thicker than the old ones.
Even if you don't have rust, brakes create dust. This dust gets between the hub and rotor and causes round rotors to be tilted and out of round. The set screw also helps when you need to change a tire on the side of the road. Each time the rotor moves off the hub, it should be cleaned so a proper mating surface can be made to prevent vibrations. This set screw doesn't just protect heads on assembly lines, they makes sure your tire can be put back on without disturbing this surface between the rotor and wheel hub. Great video aside for my nitpicking.
That hurt my head reading all of that incorrect information.
Hey Enerst, great vid.
If able to, I like to turn the wheel out so I can get to the bolts easier.
Good tip!
Here is a pro tip from years of experience. Another reason why the pads wear uneven is too much grease on the pins. Grease does not compress and the pins need to go back and fourth. All you need is just a little grease on the pins.
So you don't need to put that rotor screw back on to hold the rotor in place??? I never heard that!!
nah. someone mentioned on VW/Audi the have wheel bolts instead of lug nuts on studs and in that case it is advantageous.
Good job, good video 😊👍🏾
Thank you 🤗
Only thing I didn’t see you do is open up the brake reservoir
that and push the pistons in
also didnt talk about air in the system. Thought about that after
@@RoadsideRescueall good wasn’t trying to be a bully time for another video 😂
Didn't take it that way! Thanks for the comments!
Most of the jobs ive done no one wanted the rotors changed only the pads
ya weird. I have to convince people to get rotors a lot.
@@RoadsideRescue they always think saving money is going to keep a problem away but it only makes it more expensive in the long run
They always jump over a dollar to save a dime.
@@thealliedspy4170 yep
Yeah, they're from old school...
Back then, brake rotors were made better and thicker (had to operate a brake lathe in an auto parts store in the late 90s)
I mean if they don't feel any wobble when brakes are applied, then a pad slap can work until the next pad change.
Now, if the rotors are scored or other defects like what Ernest said (cracks or wavy surfaces)
Then, actually show them the imperfections and make them sign a waiver against any warranty comebacks 😊
But why cant rotors simply be resurfaced like we did in the “old days” Besides, I’ve heard that a lot of the new Chinese rotors warp immediately?
gotta find a place that still has a machine for it. I dont. Most dont now a days.
@@RoadsideRescue I can remember when an Aamco Brake Lathe was standard equipment in almost every shop along with a Sioux Valve Grinding Machine! I know…I’m a dinosaur! I guess with shop rates hovering around 150.00 or more an hour it’s probably cheaper to replace them. The valve machines are now obsolete because cars no,longer need valve jobs every 40,000 miles. And the beat go’s on….
Don't forget to pump the brake pedal after you install pads, (take up the slack between pad and rotor)before you get out on the road and find out you have no brakes, just when you need them!
Got to bed the pads in
Yup, Ernest says it on 22:56😅
man you would kill it in the south! Atlanta especially!! Your rates are way too low.
Remember folks, Roadside Rescue is not an instruction video. It's a video of his "day in a life" as a mobile mechanic.
Bruh looking like Forrest gump when he got done running.
Must be nice not to have to clean or fight rust
It's nice!
It's really stupid some people want that screw back in
I'll put a dab of anti seize compound just to make it easier on the next person that touches those factory set screws 😅
They are useful for German setups, where they have wheel bolts inside of lug nuts
You said you were doing the back brakes
I hate wheel locks they only stop the owner of the car 😂😂😂
i cant believe you didnt put the new pad clips on the bracket while it was off the car.....you'll learn lol
oh yeah? Why do you like that better?
Comment for the algorithm!
Please use a torque wrench, other people are watching show them the right way
Always use a torque wrench to set the proper ft/lb when putting tires on since uneven torque will make you have to buy new rotors or have to get them resurfaced. Honda is 80 ft/lbs and I would guess by the force you used you were an inconsistent 100 ft/lbs. Another bad habit I saw was not hanging the caliper with a hook or bungee from the dampener spring. Novices may bump the caliper off the hub and rupture the brake hose line.
Other than those 2 points, it was a solid video for people wanting to learn how to do brake jobs. The only other comment would be to check the brake reservoir prior to starting to verify there is a fluid gap when you compress the pistons. Many people get brake fluid flushes and that shop may have over filled the fluid.
Bro totally skipped adding that springy thingy and collapsing the piston to account for the thicker pads. So this video is totally NOT everything you need to know before doing your brakes. For those interested search TH-cam for Royalty Auto Service and look for his video titled "How To Perform a Professional Brake Job" - for the main parts but then you may also want to watch his video titled "It’s Vibrating When Braking & It’s Not the Rotors. How to Test!" that literally covers what else could be causing vibrations when braking and how to find them and cure them. BOTH of those video give you all the information you need to diagnose and fix your brake issues.
Mr earnest needs a haircut and trim. Looks hella old and used.
now days evertyone want evertything for free