Hi! Do you think one day you can make a video talking about how to take care of a rotary valve tuba? Like how to wash them and clean the tuba, when to tight the screws and stuff like that. This video is awesome thank you so much!
I might do something like that. I think I'm pretty competent with maintenance but I'm also not a repair technician. I have removed my valves and cleaned them before but I prefer to take them to a professional!
I created a page on Amazon with all of the oils I use. For a new Wessex I would recommend the lite rotor oil along with the bearing oil. www.amazon.com/shop/zachmarleymusic?listId=2Y59GYQAOB69I&ref=inf_list_own_zachmarleymusic_cp
One thing I've been told that is slightly different than what you've shown, is to avoid getting the valve oil on the inside of the valve section tube where the tuning slide touches it, as the oil can interact with the slide grease and gum up your valves down the road. Basically they only thing different would be holding it so the 5th valve tubing was "straight up" and squirting the valve oil "straight down" into it.
Funny I have the same exact horn (B&S Symphonie) and for some reason this popped up in my feed. I had the clock springs converted to traditional paddles last year much quieter.
I actually almost had Dana convert mine. He seemed to think it didn't need to be done because the clock springs were in good shape. I'll do it eventually but they really work well surprisingly.
Hi, great video! I’m curious because that all of my horns are pistons tuba, and will only have to kill the 5th rotor valve. They’re fire, wanted to ask if you will rinse your main tuning slide? As the method u use will consumer a lot of rotor oil and will that cost a frequent damage to the water key cork?
So the problem I'm having is my 2-3 valves won't even move. I can get them to move if I push the part on the valve itself, but not by the part your finger rests on. It just needs oiled but I don't know where to put the oil
nice video, i have a question, if i have a tuba with 4 pistons an the 5th is a rotor, ¿Is it the same process to oil the fifth rotor? Its a CC tuba btw.
The short answer is yes. Since rotor oil is a bit thicker you want to try to minimize the amount of rotor oil that finds its way to the piston valves. Also, I think it is important to use the same brand of oil because some oils won't play nice with each other.
Not really and certainly not with that thick of an oil. Bearing and linkage oil is much too thick to be used as an all around oil. I would recommend getting an additional rotor oil.
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Wish I could like this 10 times. Thanks so much for the clear tutorial. My tuba thanks you too.
Sure thing! I'm glad you found it helpful!
Hi! Do you think one day you can make a video talking about how to take care of a rotary valve tuba? Like how to wash them and clean the tuba, when to tight the screws and stuff like that. This video is awesome thank you so much!
I might do something like that. I think I'm pretty competent with maintenance but I'm also not a repair technician. I have removed my valves and cleaned them before but I prefer to take them to a professional!
Very informative, I’m getting a Wessex rotary c tuba soon and I really appreciate this video!
Make sure to oil those valves!
Zach Marley could I know what two oils you used in the video? Im uncertain what would be best to buy.
I created a page on Amazon with all of the oils I use. For a new Wessex I would recommend the lite rotor oil along with the bearing oil.
www.amazon.com/shop/zachmarleymusic?listId=2Y59GYQAOB69I&ref=inf_list_own_zachmarleymusic_cp
L
How often is this done, once a week or each time you use the horn? Thanks.
One thing I've been told that is slightly different than what you've shown, is to avoid getting the valve oil on the inside of the valve section tube where the tuning slide touches it, as the oil can interact with the slide grease and gum up your valves down the road. Basically they only thing different would be holding it so the 5th valve tubing was "straight up" and squirting the valve oil "straight down" into it.
I wasn't clear but that's essentially what I do.
Funny I have the same exact horn (B&S Symphonie) and for some reason this popped up in my feed. I had the clock springs converted to traditional paddles last year much quieter.
That's awesome! My clock springs are actually fairly quiet but I will probably convert them eventually. I just haven't gotten around to it.
@@LowBrassU Dana Hofer in Chicago did mine and did a great job. He used Miraphone paddles which are better than the new B&S paddles.
I actually almost had Dana convert mine. He seemed to think it didn't need to be done because the clock springs were in good shape. I'll do it eventually but they really work well surprisingly.
Hi, great video! I’m curious because that all of my horns are pistons tuba, and will only have to kill the 5th rotor valve. They’re fire, wanted to ask if you will rinse your main tuning slide? As the method u use will consumer a lot of rotor oil and will that cost a frequent damage to the water key cork?
I don't rinse my main tuning slide but it's probably not a bad idea. I haven't had a lot of issue with my corks going bad though.
thx
Nice video
Thanks!
So the problem I'm having is my 2-3 valves won't even move. I can get them to move if I push the part on the valve itself, but not by the part your finger rests on. It just needs oiled but I don't know where to put the oil
You don’t take the bottom caps off and oil the bottom spindle bearings?
nice video, i have a question, if i have a tuba with 4 pistons an the 5th is a rotor, ¿Is it the same process to oil the fifth rotor?
Its a CC tuba btw.
The short answer is yes. Since rotor oil is a bit thicker you want to try to minimize the amount of rotor oil that finds its way to the piston valves. Also, I think it is important to use the same brand of oil because some oils won't play nice with each other.
@@LowBrassU Thanks bro.
Funny how this came up and one of my friends just busted his linkgage screw
Is I possible to oil the bearings and linkages with just rotor oil (I specifically have Hetman 12 oil, with a needle tip)?
It's possible but not the most effective. The thicker oil really is a better choice.
@@LowBrassU Alright
is it possible to do this with one kind of oil? I've only got the bearing and linkage oil.
Not really and certainly not with that thick of an oil. Bearing and linkage oil is much too thick to be used as an all around oil. I would recommend getting an additional rotor oil.
Thanks
You can to make a video of Eb tuba
Same principle.
How long does the tuba smell or even taste like oil?
Depends on the oil but with consistent daily oiling it may never go away.