How a 110v Solar / battery Grid tie power inverter with limiter. soyos soyosource BREERAINZ
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- The Exact Product link as seen in this video - amzn.to/3NgNoD6
All products reviewed in my videos are listed UNDER my AMAZON storefront for easy access - www.amazon.com/shop/twowheelsandahalf
(Commissions Earned)
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases or if you like this content NOW YOU can Support this Channel with any Donation VIA PAYPAL by clicking on this LINK - www.paypal.com...
Link to Facebook account - / tiberiu.iepan
Link to Instagram account - @vegasromaniac - / vegas_romaniac
Link to tweeter - / romaniacvegas
You have done a great job explaining this to people who have no idea how to produce their own electric power. Thank you. keep this up. do more to help humanity, humanity will do more to you. thank you again.
Excellent explanation
Glad you liked it
Can't modern hybrid inverters do this these days? For example the Eg4 18Kpv or Sol-Ark 15K? I thought they could be set NOT to send energy back to the grid but still allow you to consume all your own solar production and battery storage while importing energy from the grid only when necessary. I would like to do something such as you have done but I would want it on a MUCh larger scale than your system. During the summer I use up to 130kWh per day (AC runs all day in Vegas) and would really like to have a system that takes me at least 90% off grid if that is even possible?
I don't know about other systems , this one can be combined up to 10 , each can deliver about 15kw a day
@@TheCrazyRomanian Well, having 9 small units on the wall to get around 130kWh of production does not seem appealing. And maybe you have to have 10 units to even out the hot legs, I don't know. I would rather have two larger units that can handle more wattage. Just curious if the inverter has to be designated as "current limiting" or if a hybrid inverter can do the same thing. I will consult an expert...thanks.
@@URackADisciprinepardon my english, from my understanding hybrid inverter work differently from grid tie inverter with limiter (GTIL),
in Hybrid inverter, power from grid go into inverter 1st then distributed to breaker panel, the inverter have built in power meter to either to utilize solar, charge battery, or import power from grid. The design is much efficient than GTIL and the inverter come in larger power range, from 1kw up to 10kw per inverter, but initial setup cost is higher mainly due to need to modify current wiring.
GTIL in other hand is much simpler to setup, no need to modify existing wiring, just hook up the inverter in any power outlet and can be use right away, to enable power limiting or export limit, current sensor need to be placed at wire coming from the gird in side the breaker panel. This allow the inverter to throttle back power output when it detect reverse power flow into the grid. This kind of system are easier to setup and removed, but it lacks of integration of many feature found in hybrid inverter. Such as ability to store solar power in battery, ability to swith into off grid mode when power outage.
I have same inverter and i saw some bad videos on youtube teaching to put the limiter the limiter needs to be puted outside the clamp if clamp reads the injection of the inverter will work bad.
Yeah the clamps need to be on the load not on the main line ...
Do you have a smart meter on the house? I ask because they are very sensitive to back feeding and I question if this limiter can react fast enough to keep ANY amount of short/small back feeding from happening. With an analog meter, I'm sure it doesn't matter!
Yes I have a smart meter , and since I got this I inverter never went backwards. The inverter leaves about 20 to 50 watts to be used from the network , it's not 100 percent precise. And yes I know if it goes back it's bad. I had a warning from the power company for a micro grid tie inverter that was feeding the network and I was getting charged for that extra power .. 😩
@@TheCrazyRomanian I'm doing the same with a micro inverter. The tamper warning is on, but no warnings... YET! Putting together a full system now using a SA 15K, so hopefully the limiter on that is quick and accurate enough to keep things under the radar, lol!
@@ssoffshore5111 you are on the right track. I even put more power on one leg to compensate for the used of the other till I get my second inverter and worked like a charm , the meter still added and subtracted correctly with no warning ..
@@TheCrazyRomanian yikes, glad it was just a warning. what state you live in?
😢ho appena installato questo modello gtn 1000 con batteria a 24v. Volevo chiederti a che temperatura partono le ventole, visto che fino ad ora non le ho ancora sentite
Grazie
I have the same inverter but when im using a high load and then close it it feeds back to the grid power for 3 to 4 sec . Is there a way to prevent this from happening?
IT has a sync time but I didn't measure for how long after the load stops .. and no you can't fix that if that's the truth and it's 3 to 4 seconds, but mine stops as soon as I unplug the load .. really fast response , maybe half a second of less
Thanks you for replying.Did you had any issues with the power company for that minor power feed back to the network?
I have same setting, however, the ct clamp and meter reads about 25 watts lower than actual load so I keep on importing about 25 watts, any idea how to correct this low reading? thanks
Not worth chasing those last 25 kW, especially during the night I have 25 kW an hour being used out of the network and I've tried many things but it's really not worth chasing them, I have between half a kilowatt and 1.5 kW worth of power everyday pulled out of the network and doesn't matter what I do I always going to use those
Where did you get the amp sensor on the top
Comes with the grid tie inverter
Pls show more videos about your system pls
I got lots already made since I posted this one
wish this could be done instead of permits and stuff oh well.
I got no permits ..
auto-consumption, ZeroExport, no any paters with electric company
In your videos you say you need to cover both phases to "do it right". Is this because to cover both phases you need one on each leg for example phase A = 50 watts, phase B = 60 watts. You cannot push 110 through 1 load to cover the total? Or does only running on phase A cause a problem on Phase B or the neutral bar that alerts the electric company to the unauthorized connection?
Videos are exactly what I am looking for. Thank you.
Since the video I found out that the meter only counts positive or negative sum total flow so I split the load between the inverters equally , Even if I have more consumption on one side then the other the meter still stays to zero so it doesn't actually matter