Matt and Eddie Climbing Jacobs Ladder 21st Feb 2022
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2022
- Matt and Eddie where on a five day winter mountaineering course which normally covers the basic winter skills over the first two days before looking at more advanced skills and ropework on days three and four and with lots of ropework practise, climbing on day five.
However the weather had other ideas, so on day three I decided that that afternoon would be the only opportunity to do a full mountain route or even get up high as the winds were forecast to drop for a few hours.
This meant the guys were thrown in the deep end, especially as Matt had never done any ropework or summer climbing. I had to keep the anchors as simple as possible by just using slings and counterbalance techniques and just go for it avoiding any queues at stances to get up and out before the winds increased to dangerous levels.
Fortunately Jacob's left was clear above the narrows but a team on the right meant we couldn't take the easier right exit without waiting, so it was up direct to the cornice which was softer and more overhung than wished given the simple ropework and lack of runners!
Once I was up and anchored I had to hack away the cornice with the back draught blowing the hard ice lumps onto my face.
Unfortunately the wee Insta360 Go2 camera timed out and stopped recording as I was busy safeguarding the exit and I didn't get any footage of the guys climbing through the cornice!
The guys then cruised it and we manage to get off the mountain before the worst of the winds returned!
Matt and Eddie loved it and took it all in their stride :-)
That cornice looked tricky Ron. Guessing you didn't include the bit where you gracefully climbed over the lip for good reason?! Good effort. Love your enthusiasm for posting loads of videos of your days out with clients.
Yes cornice was tricky and camera timed out with not enough charge to film the last bit!
"Fortunately Jacob's left was clear above the narrows but a team on the right meant we couldn't take the easier right exit without waiting, so it was up direct to the cornice which was softer and more overhung than wished given the simple ropework and lack of runners!
Once I was up and anchored I had to hack away the cornice with the back draught blowing the hard ice lumps onto my face.
Unfortunately the wee Insta360 Go2 camera timed out and stopped recording as I was busy safeguarding the exit and I didn't get any footage of the guys climbing through the cornice!"
@@RonWalkerCairngormGuides I’ve gone out on the buttress to the left before to avoid the cornice, was this possible? It looked a bit banked out!
@@kevinw1129 Normally climbers right there wasn't a great build-up in the gully compared to normal and even the chock stone at the narrows was still visible. All change now I think!