Great video How can I tell what switch I have on a board? Is there a model or part number, being so small all I see is 045, what does that mean I’m talking about a push button self locking switch Thanks
Hello. I have a question for you if you don't mind. I have this pressure cooker which works perfectly except for one button, the slow cook button. Seeing as though I have contact cleaner I thought I'd try and fix it. I initially opened the bottom thinking I had to remove the inner cooker surrounding to be able to get access to the button panel on the outside. Thought there might be some screws fastening it on from the inside. I started by unscrewing a yellow/cable fastened to the literal side wall of the outer casing. You can unscrew it from the outside. I assume this is some kind of ground. I then unscrewed 3 large screws which held the inner cooking surrounding down. I then by chance noticed that the button panel face was peeling off slightly and that it was actually a sticker. I peeled it off and found the screws attaching it to the outside. Reattached all the other part and focused on that. There was nothing unusual or tricky about take it off. Once I got in it was a square black contact button with a metal plate on the top keeping everything on. I used a knife to pry it off, gave everything a spray, and clicked it back on. I plugged it in and there was no power going to the panel, which has an LCD much like yours, which lights up when on. The inner heating element turn on though as though I've started some cooking function yet no power to the panel. But...if I hold the board in my hand and touch the back of it to the outer metal casing, the panel lights up and the power trips. I've tried reattaching the ground cable. I've looked for anything else that could be touching. Can't see anything. Tried opening the button up again and removing everything from the inside so there is no current going through. I'm stumped as to what I'd did since I hardly did anything. I think it's interesting the panel comes on when touching the outside. Any clue what it could be?
The FR-301 is not a soldering iron. It's a desoldeing iron. It heats up the solder and sucks it in one go. I'm not too familiar with Quick but they might have something similar.
@@BetterBiomedChannel TS100 is my first and only iron. Absolutely in love with it for 3 years+ learning elect repair. It handled my "eBay cheapo solder" phase. My "underheating, overheating, and using it as a chisel/prybar" phase. Now in my "learned my dang lesson and switched to kester 44 solder" phase- the TS 120 has more than won my loyalty. (Not to brag but somebody the other day even called me "fairly competent" 😅). Anyways, just my two cents. Old thread.. long comment.. hope it helps somebody lolz
A very helpful and clear video, just what I was looking for, thanks.
Great video! I’ll share with my students.
Glad to have found your channel... loving the content! 🤘
Thanks for your support!
Great video
How can I tell what switch I have on a board? Is there a model or part number, being so small all I see is 045, what does that mean
I’m talking about a push button self locking switch
Thanks
Hello. I have a question for you if you don't mind. I have this pressure cooker which works perfectly except for one button, the slow cook button. Seeing as though I have contact cleaner I thought I'd try and fix it. I initially opened the bottom thinking I had to remove the inner cooker surrounding to be able to get access to the button panel on the outside. Thought there might be some screws fastening it on from the inside. I started by unscrewing a yellow/cable fastened to the literal side wall of the outer casing. You can unscrew it from the outside. I assume this is some kind of ground. I then unscrewed 3 large screws which held the inner cooking surrounding down. I then by chance noticed that the button panel face was peeling off slightly and that it was actually a sticker. I peeled it off and found the screws attaching it to the outside. Reattached all the other part and focused on that. There was nothing unusual or tricky about take it off. Once I got in it was a square black contact button with a metal plate on the top keeping everything on. I used a knife to pry it off, gave everything a spray, and clicked it back on. I plugged it in and there was no power going to the panel, which has an LCD much like yours, which lights up when on. The inner heating element turn on though as though I've started some cooking function yet no power to the panel. But...if I hold the board in my hand and touch the back of it to the outer metal casing, the panel lights up and the power trips. I've tried reattaching the ground cable. I've looked for anything else that could be touching. Can't see anything. Tried opening the button up again and removing everything from the inside so there is no current going through. I'm stumped as to what I'd did since I hardly did anything. I think it's interesting the panel comes on when touching the outside. Any clue what it could be?
in a shunt resistor you said if you increase the current you have a incrase in resistance is this true?
Sorry, what I meant is that in a shunt, the voltage drop across increases with current increase @ a specific low resistance
I dident get on with the sucky tool but the gauze worked and I managed to replace the micro switch. Hob working again. 👍🏼
I recommend Hakko FR-301, it will make life much easier.
The Quick TS1200 is the best soldering iron I've used so far. It beat out the Hakko.
The FR-301 is not a soldering iron. It's a desoldeing iron. It heats up the solder and sucks it in one go. I'm not too familiar with Quick but they might have something similar.
@@BetterBiomedChannel
TS100 is my first and only iron. Absolutely in love with it for 3 years+ learning elect repair. It handled my "eBay cheapo solder" phase. My "underheating, overheating, and using it as a chisel/prybar" phase. Now in my "learned my dang lesson and switched to kester 44 solder" phase- the TS 120 has more than won my loyalty. (Not to brag but somebody the other day even called me "fairly competent" 😅). Anyways, just my two cents. Old thread.. long comment.. hope it helps somebody lolz
Too expensive unless you use it all the time
Subbing because the"t" was pronounced in "buttons". I throw things when I hear
B'ohns.