Pantorouter Linear Bearing Experiment (WnW
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2018
- Pretty much a fail, but still an interesting experiment (READ THE COMMENTS BELOW!!! LOTS OF GOOD ADVICE AND FOLLOW-UP IDEAS THERE)
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This is an experiment in hacking the Pantorouter plans to use some inexpensive linear glide bearings that I found online.
I've been wanting to build a pantorouter for years. One of the details of the plans that I have found intimidating was the part where he converts some drawer slides into linear bearings. So I thought I would play around with trying to come up with an alternate to that. At Banggood.com I found some pretty inexpensive linear bearings that I thought might work.
It didn't quite work. I think that the rails that I picked were far too short, so the bearings would come off the end of the rails. It might still work with longer rails. I'll update the notes here if I ever continue the experiment with longer rails!
Thanks to Banggood.com which supplied the bearings used in this experiment. Follow these links for details about the bearings:
2pcs SBR12-300mm Supported Rails -- goo.gl/NecEYF
Machifit SBR12UU Linear Bearing -- goo.gl/S5EGfa
Suleve™ M5SH2 150Pcs M5 Stainless Steel Allen Bolt Assortment Kit-- goo.gl/tCpcFb
Banggood -- goo.gl/nrK7a4
I WOULD TRY THESE LONGER RAILS IF I TRIED THIS AGAIN:
goo.gl/LL1Fx3 -- 2pcs SBR12 475mm Linear Rail
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Thank-you! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Yes, that's so much less finicky! :D
wait, what are you saying? :-) I didn't even show the part where I made a template, and drilled holes and then found that the holes didn't match up, so I had to patch the holes with dowels and flush trim them and.... way less fussy.
Barry.... have you SEEN the kind of plywood that Matthias uses in his projects!?!? ;-)
Come on, Art! Barry's right! That plywood is clearly not dimensionally stable enough for the task! Just go and look at how Barry made his from dimensionally immaculate plywood! There's a video on your channel, right Barry?
best comment I have read yet! I will have to remember this come back for my trolls
Art - I love the fact that you shared a video that actually shows how things really happen and are not always rosey - this is actually good info that can be used anywhere you have sliders etc... thanks for sharing and keep up the good work
I want this to work so badly!
THIS IS AWESOME!
I hope there's a follow up to this!
I loved this idea - thank you for making it!
I'm enjoying your videos more than most of the other youtubers out there. You're not just pumping out "you won't believe this modern reclaimed wooden thing" videos over and over. You're more relatable and have much more purpose to your projects.
Blushing....
I made a horizontal mortising machine and I found that using the drawer slides worked really well. You just have to make sure they aren't the full extension kind.
I had no idea that those were an option. Thank you for sharing and yes it is hard to line up 2 rollers let alone 6
That has been on my build wish list for a l-o-o-o-n-g time. I like this alternative.
You’re close with those slides! The longer one should do fine. I’ve also thought about making one of those but haven’t been brave enough to set out to do it. Good for you for getting started.
Greetings from another Canadian. Just found your channel. Thanks for this Art. I've been working on a similar mechanism for a mower blade grinder. Just a rule of thumb from a toolmaker: a ratio of 1:2 (movement to mounting surface) is best for the sake of stability and to maintain squareness. Yes, I know it's too late now since this video is 6 months old, but ... ya know.
Liked and subscribed. Work safe.
Looking forward to your next video on this Art! Please do show how some things did not work as expected, I think those parts are great.
I've wondered a few times if using linear guides & bearings might make it easier to build his pantorouter. Just wish they weren't so expensive. But hey, I'll live vicariously through you. Thanks for putting this out there
Maybe tighten the screws on the bearings after they are on the rail, or maybe you did ?
The blocks that go on the rails have an adjustment hole on one side, make sure to assemble with it facing a side you can reach.
Thanks for being willing to experiment. I have a project in mind and your video helped me very much while thinking through my own efforts. Thanks for posting.
Glad I could help!
The linear slides have aluminum bases and the actual rails are normally made of some kind of steel
Nice experiment Art! Thanks for sharing.👍😎JP
I think you needed to drill the holes for the cars oversized, once all on the rails tighten the bolts up, this will ensure they are all aligned, use thin fender washers under the bolts.
Thanx for the tip on where to get cost effective linear bearing and trax. Iam building a panel saw as I dont wish to spend $2200. for a piece of premade junk.
If you can get away with it, I'd use two bearings on one side, and one on the other. Also, like many have mentioned, it's much easier if you have oversized mounting holes and wait to tighten the bearings until you have them on the rods.
for template you can use transparent acrylic sheet. first mount linear bearing blocks on acrylic sheet then transfer those marks on your wooden sheet.
First, we have;
The base piece (non moving)
The rails (non moving attached to the base piece)
The Bearings (the six doodads that slide on the rails)
The Carriage (the six doodads are attached to this)
The Base and the carriage are cut to the same width use thick MDF.
Make a shallow dado carriage to mount the bearing into.
Set your fence up say 2" from the edge of your bearing board, cut your dado then flip the board around and cut a second dado.
Now you have two dados that are the same distance from the edge of the bearing board sides, and are parallel to each other.
Mount your bearings in the grooves with loose bolts, put your rails into the bearings, tighten the bolts, this should have your rails sliding easily through the bearings mounted on the carriage.
now use maybe the fence of your TS and put the side of the base board against it, then the side of the bearing board against the fence too, now the rails should be sitting on the base board, and the carriage board with the bearings attached should slide back and forth.
Put some thick CA glue under the rails and again place the bearing board with the rails in the bearings onto the base board, both pieces against the TS fence.
The glue will dry and hold the rails in place long enough for you to drill some holes and put some bolts/screws into the rail to hold it to the base board.
Might work!
Good luck!
thanks, Stu. I'm kind of fascinated at some of the very detailed and well-thought-out comments that this little experiment has generated
Nice try, I think if you didn't tighten the screws till after they were on the rails it may have self aligned. Although the holes may need to be a fraction oversized to make that work.
Hi. How do you find the performance of these linear bearings when they get dirty with saw dust? I have a slider made in the classical way with tubes/bearings and sawdust make the movement uneven.
unfortunately this video is all I got -- I started a kitchen renovation and did not go further with this project at this time.
7:00 next time leave the bearings loose till they're railed up so they can wiggle a little to align ......... then tighten
The holes in those glide bearing blocks are not evenly spaced. They're all over the place. I have one where just one hole is .05" off to the side. I think they're made with a shotgun. You have to make a custom drill template for each block. Or: I made holes for the adjustment screws in a 3/8" aluminum plate, washed the metal flakes out of the bearings with isopropyl alcohol, lubed them with PTFE grease, cleaned the tops of the blocks with acetone, then JB-Welded them to the mill scale on the plate. It works ... reasonably well. The slop is under .001" over 500mm, and that's as good as I can get it.
Mine has the drawer slides... I was hoping to add linear rails to it, and found this video.
Looks like I'm going to need to do some math to figure out all the things I'm going to need to adjust to suit the rails and bearings without have to start over.
Yeesh.
Its not the lenght of the rails, it was the force you used to connect misaligned blocks, maybe drill larger holes in the wood, then tighten down after the blocks are properly aligned with the rails
damn, you could have easily made an 3mm X 10mm X (your desired distance) aluminum (maybe even plastic) bracket perpendicular to your rail guide, then connect those bearings and your wood using that bracket
Nice to see how NOTto do this. 1st screw the gliders mounted on the rails to the top board from the top. Then with doublesided tape place it on the bottom plate. Slide the top off and screw the rails to the bottom plate. This way everything lines up perfect.
Yes longer rails should be used.
A question more than a suggestion: why couldn't you put both rails in line with one another on one side to give you 60cm of movement with a low-friction glide rail (like a piece of uhmw cut to the correct height, or mdf with friction tape) on the other side to keep the bases parallel? You could even use 4 bearings on one side that way. My thinking is it would work similarly to a table saw sled with only one runner, right?
That would work for the gliding, I think, but I would think it might tip side to side, which is not good.
Never use three bearings in a row.....the optimum setup is two bearings on one side and one on the other....Never tighten the bearing down until you first make sure your rails are parallel. You cannot force linear bearings....
Yes you have to subtract from how far apart you have your ball sleeves paced. Also I bought 1000mm length and the bearings fell out just like yours. I have ordered flat type now which will cost me several hundred dollars more since the first rails failed and cannot be returned.
Can it use in vertical line about 100 cm?
I wonder if it might help to file a chamfer on the ends of the rods so that the bearings had some help in getting lined up.
Better to mount the bearing glides to the top table first (with rails for alignment but not fastened yet - allow some slack in mounting holes, so you can refine later) - then fix rails to bottom piece of plywood. If you have a rigid table, I don’t know why you would need 3 glides per rail. You could also use a shallow dado to inset the glides, to register to parallel lines. I have a woodworker’s supply matchmaker - and I think it has some advantages over the pantorouter (rigidity for one). It also helped that I picked it up (router attached) for $150 at an auction. For the design, it’s also good to think a bit in advance about setting stops and clamping work to the table. With several degrees of motion, cut safety and quality depends a lot on your workpiece staying still.
thank you
Could you make the holes oversized, with a counterbore large enough to accept a washer, and then attach the bearings loosely, slide them onto the rail, and then tighten them down? that would ensure that they were perfectly aligned.
Yup. But longer rails first. Then I'd only need to line up four.
You could mount the bearings on something that you can manipulate first (short strip) and then glue than one on the big base. In any case you can install one side as "straight", then the first of other rails' as pivot and you only need to adjust the other two.
Really helpful!
You've likely figured this out, but when working with linear rail, it's better to keep the bearings on the rail, and have some adjustment in the platform you're bolting down to it (slots or enlarged holes). Tighten them down only when on the rail. Wood moves a bit anyway, so always let the metal dictate positioning, not the other way around. It's not just a matter of having too short a rail, although that, combined with positioning, is why the balls knocked out. Otherwise, they'd just bind up.
Some types of bearings *can't* leave the rails without losing the balls, so this would work with those as well.
Keep trying. I managed to use linear bearings successfully, about 4 years ago. I used Steel rods & separate rod carriers, with 2 bearings each side. Yours should work the same.
That's good to know! Got any photos on imgur.com or somewhere else that we can have a look?
imgur.com/a/2Sj10ns
Hello, I'm seeking advice.
Do you think I could adapt this Linear Rails guidance system to fit a wooden door,
similar to the system used for a cantilever gate? My door is made of pine wood,
it's 2 meters long, 90 cm high, and is composed of 5 planks,
each 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick, weighing approximately 50 kg.
I like the guidance system of the cantilever gate,
but it's too large for my small door and I'm considering adapting it with this system.
The door will be outside, do you think this Linear Rails system will rust?
I'm looking forward to your response when you have the time. Thank you.
I don't think these are good for exterior use, and you'd need something very big to hold a gate that size
I think you’re on the right path with more time and length that it would be sturdy. And definitely not a fail and just ignore John H. he’s just jealous :) Take Care.
I would have left the locked down rail guides a little loose
alignment is crucial
7:10 loosen bolts it go easy in and it find it place when tighten. and should use only 2 bearing for rail to get more travel.and if travel bearing move is 100 then you need just 150 ballskrew. not same lenght as linears.ohoh
Maybe mount the bearings to the substrate and let them show you where to mount the track?
Great video Art! Even when things don't go as well as you hoped, there is always something to learn from trying. :^)
Should have put the slides on first then screwed the board down.
LMAO that was funny I'm still laughing and the video is over.
Just wait for Matthias to tell you what to do next.
I should have bought one of his when he had that garage sale last month... Sigh.
Whatever you do, don't change it to 1:1!! Hell hath no fury like the pantamaster scorned!
:D
Si this Sbr12 or Sbr16? Thanks
Is...
This is explained in the comments and the article. SBR12
it's a good try
You must be an engineer.
Nope, but definitely a science guy.
That rod is NOT aluminum.
Drilling holes to pencil marks are nowhere near accurate enough. You need to work to ~ 0.01mm... Do NOT assemble rail after mounting- mount with the rails in place.
those bearings cannot slide off the rail.. cause they gona drop bearings.. you cant remove them... they need to stay on rod.
Yup. Figured that out... The hard way!
@@Wordsnwood but there are others that you can slide off and bearing stays :D
WD40 is cause they tried to get it right 39 times.. you'll get it
Gajendar Sharma budan bark
high chinese quality....bearings with less rollers....
Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer!
Nice orient
Carpenters ...
Metric jeeeeeeej we converted another one ! Hoezee ! Nexttttttttttttttttt