Dispelling 10 Common Engine Myths! Can the Missus stump the CAR WIZARD?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- Can Mrs. Wizard stump the CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ with 10 commonly believed engine myths? Using his Wizardly powers he will dispel what's fact and what's fiction.
🔮🔧 AMAZON AFFILIATE STORE: www.amazon.com/shop/omegaauto... 🔧🔮
🇬🇧🇬🇧 UK AMAZON STORE: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/omegaau... 🇬🇧🇬🇧
🧰 BENDPAK LIFTS: www.bendpak.com 🧰
👕 CAR WIZARD MERCH: teespring.com/stores/carwizard 👕
📷 INSTAGRAM @therealcarwizard 📷 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
RX8 Owners: I check my fuel every time I fill up with oil
RX8 Milage: 15 MPG CITY AND HIGHWAY
@@paisis123 15mpg? Shiit I'm lucky to get 8 on my 90s bbf truck
Apex seals
Yeah this is actually how it is. It's a 3 stroke engine and it should be mixed.
@@CAepicreviews 3 stroke?? just stfu maannn :DDD
Adam and Jamie look a lot different on this season of Mythbusters
No beret and not Tilley hats.
More like Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers
Beauty & The Beast 😅
Hahahahaha 😂
Awesome comment
No worries about a Land Rover over 100k miles, they'll never reach it or you'll be broke before it does.
Exactly what I thought. No car makes it to 100k miles. LR, bimmers and exotics will die way before, most others will make it way past that
@@nicolasboivin9746 I have an Audi that's approaching 130k with no issues
@@mikep6726 ...130k with no issues after i spent all of my bank savings on it*
Friend bought a range rover qith 60k miles. It blew a head gasket at 69k. Did not overheat.
@@mikep6726 lol
Wizard: "Cause you dont drive it that much"
Mrs Wizard: "Its called winter"
Buuuuurn :D
I'm so glad Hoovie got you to start this channel. Love you man.
True that...
You should check your oil evey time you fill up.....if you have a rotary
or is that fill oil when you check gas level.
Also, run a heavier oil than what the manufacturer recommends... if you have a rotary
If you have a rotary you should honestly run pre-mixed if you have the time
Or when you have 80s toyota/honda.
Or a Lycoming/Continental/Franklin/Wright/Pratt & Whitney =)
You can tell Mrs Wizard is a teacher, "you have room for improvement ",
My cat freaked out when you were playing the recorder 😂😂
Just the cat?
Mrs wizard is getting much more relaxed and confident in front of camera!!
🥳
You guys are a good team
I like how most of this stuff can be answered by reading the manual that came with your car, which no one does.
Read what?
R.T.F.M, (read the manual).
I read it do I get a gold star?
Whenever I get a new car, I put the manual in the bathroom. That guaranties I’ll read it.
I read that on my Porsche I should get in and start the engine and just drive. I was surprised by that. It also said not to rev the engine above 3k rpm until the engine is at full operating temperature.
Car Wizard logo always reminds me of South Park... Cartman on a Lord of the Rings quest
In warm weather, I generally warm the car up until the revs go down from high idle, just to get the oil circulating before I add stress. In cold weather, I like to wait till the coolant temp needle twitches on the car. I live in an area where -40 is more than possible in the winter.
Idling to warm a car went out with carburetor freezing. Many car makes say to NOT warm your car, just drive easy. The car warms quicker and you don't waste fuel. At those winter temps you probably have block and battery heaters. Keep them plugged in. (I installed a small room heater in my 70's VW van for cold days, switched on as part of getting ready for work.) For cold weather it is necessary to warm a car if the windshield will freeze over, but that's not just cold, it's sub-human. BTW, "wind chill" or "feels like" temps don't affect your car.
@@mikep490- Agreed! 😊
@@mikep490”wind chill” and “feels like” do affect your car, you just never ask it if it feels cold. 😞
Battery tenders don’t taste as good as chicken tenders, though.
Dad jokes FTW!
Great joke 😭
But they sure get you up and going! Into anything solid if you're not lucky too!
true
You should try female tenders.
The 'don't put batteries on concrete' thing started when battery cases were made from wax paper or something like that and should not be in contact with a porous, moist surface. Modern plastic battery cases are completely inert and so long as the top is dry, can be in standing water.
It may have also come from disgruntled shop owners who were tired of stubbing their toes on immovable blocks. ;)
The battery thing can also be more of a real problem in cold climates. Concrete can suck the heat out of things. If you place the battery on the floor near a exterior wall in a very cold place, the concrete slab could conduct the heat right out of the battery and freeze it.
Yugophoto got it right extreme cold will run your battery flat
Lead acid batteries normally lose a charge over time. It has nothing to do with concrete
This was true with the Edison type batteries.
I used to think that you and Hoovie were the best combo on TH-cam but now you and Mrs. Wizard are definitely challenging that partnership! Please keep both vlogs coming to keep your fans (like me happy). BTW, my freshman college roommates was named Dave Long. We called him "Primo" for the next 4 years. For our dorm room furniture, Primo walked to a nearby junkyard, (Crash Inc., Greenville, PA., stole the longest most comfortable rear seat he could find, carried it back to our dormroom on his shoulders (about 2 miles at least) and that was our freshman bachelor pad couch for that year. It was comfy but didn't recline. But we made it work!!! So, God bless the David Longs of our world. My best friends!
Great video wizard! I do have one thing to add on topping off fluids though, I always advise people NOT to top off the brake fluid if the system isn’t leaking because to me the fluid level in a sealed system is a great wear indicator, plus if you top it off and the pads are at 25% when you go to change them you’re going to push brake fluid all over the place.
I tell my customers the same thing. I can’t count how many brake jobs I’ve done where as soon as I push the caliper pistons back in, brake fluid goes all over the ground.
@@jayski8987 and J.R., Don't you know that you should have the bleed screw open on the caliper before pushing the piston back so that you don't push contaminated fluid back into the ABS system?
@@jayski8987 7ihç v aftuhhh
@Paul Bunce
You're right. Nobody does it this way but you're exactly right.
Nobody thinks about pushing that rusty, burnt, contaminated fluid back up through those small orifices in your HCU and back into your master cylinder.
It also prevents the bleed screws from corroding into the calipers up here in the rust belt.
I always draw the fluid out of the MC before changing pads… then remove the rest of the fluid after… Always best to have fresh fluid in the MC…
Wizard brings me inner-peace because of how monotone his voice is lol
He would’ve made a great Psychologist
He Is A Mello Guy Compared To Most Mechanics
For sure I have to drink a caffeinated beverage to stay awake and his wife’s direct sergeant voice makes me jump to action!! Im sure she wears the pants in their house lol...
@@highwaystar8310 on the video too
I remember decades ago that the break-in period was 500 miles and then change your oil. Because a lot of metal shedded off on the new motors.
The new C8 Corvette has an electronic limiter to limit the highest revving for a number of miles to work in the engine.
My buddy with his mercedes has a similar thing, I heard that cold engines just use more fuel and limiting how hard the engine runs just limits fuel consumption
There's a motorcycle manufacturer that does this too, I can't remember which one right now. Maybe KTM? I think the redline is artificially low until X number of miles, but I'm not sure it changes the fuel cutoff. Maybe to be viewed as a strong suggestion?
@@Magescuro kinda similar. Adjustable idle/rev range is actually really common on some European manufacturers. Like my bmw engined Peugeot gets a higher idle in cold weather (btw really scary the first time, -16 c boom 1600rpm idle very weird feeling) the corvette rev range is actually limited by 2000 or so rpm till you drive 500miles(may not be the exact miles) to break in the engine
My 2008 GT500 wouldn't develop full boost until after 500 miles or so.
My 2020 STI had a 1000 mile break in. Was told by the dealer and the owners manual not to beat on it, stay under 4k rpms and not keep the rpms continuous for too long.
We all played the recorder at school in the UK. They still sounded as bad.
Went to school for a year in Florida. We had to play the recorder too....lol
@@kevinjohnson9736 Floridian here...proud expert recorder player
Myth #2 My new 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5L 5 cylinder engine had a special break in oil that was not to be changed until 5,000 miles. The owner's manual also recommended not using full throttle until 500 miles. And to avoid continuous steady rpms for more than a half hour until 1,000 miles. I followed these directions and even at 125,000 miles the car burnt less than 3/16" of oil on the dipstick per oil change. My oil change interval was 7,500 miles after the break in period. The owner's manual called for a 10,000 mile oil change interval, but it seemed too much for me. The vehicle I had before was a 1990 Ranger 4 cylinder. I changed the oil every 3,000 miles in that little truck and had to add a quart every 900 miles due to it burring it. lol.
If you fill the brake fluid reservoir just before a brake job, expanding the calipers for the new pads will push the fluid out out of the reservoir for certain. I made that mistake myself. Brake fluid level is dependent on wear level.
Use a turkey baster and remove the fluid form the master before pushing the calipers back. Then remove it again after all of the calipers are back. Fill with fresh fluid and bleed each wheel until the fluid runs clean. Then change the fluid in the master every year when you change oil. That helps remove some moisture from the system.
Love the eye-roll Mrs. Wizard gives once in a while. They make a great couple, love watching their playful interactions. We also get to learn something while they talk.
Re: engine warm-up -> 15 to 30 seconds to allow oil to to coat top of engine.
Coolant change is more of a factor of time vs. mileage…
The one thing I remember hearing about warning up an engine is to remember that the transmission is still cold and drive more gentle for the first mile or so until the transmission has warmed up.
I’m pretty sure a transmission (at least for a manual) takes a lot longer to warm up than an engine. I’ll happily wait for the engine to warm up, but for the transmission, I don’t really have any extra patience. If it’s an auto trans, they usually cool their fluid through the radiator. During warmup, that cooler will probably act as a transmission warmer, with the two of them basically warming up together.
In my vehicles I wait for the revs to come down, after starting, before pulling away.
I do the same, when it’s cold and I start it, it idles high, and when it revs down, is when I proceed.
Same! I start it up, and however long it takes me to situate my coffee, get my music playing, and get my seatbelt on is how long it gets to warm up before I take off. Once I take off I go pretty easy for the first 5 to 10 minutes of my drive.
In normal temps, that's called cat light-off. The engine idles higher until the catalytic converter is hot enough to be in its most efficient operating window.
Regardless, you're better off driving lightly right away when it's cold. It builds heat faster, so you spend less time operating the engine in a cold state.
I live in a cold winter climate and do the same thing. I am blessed to have a remote starter which makes that easier. I am sure that it makes little difference in modern cars, but there are laws of physics and expansion and contraction are real things in (for cars) metals and plastics....especially when you live in a place that easily sees -20f in the winter.
And a million others do so & there goes the climate 😉
I store many cars through the long michigan winter, and something I have found that works for me is when I plan on parking a car for more than a few weeks I simply disconnect the negative or positive terminal on the battery. I have stored cars for many months with this method, and when I come back in the spring I simply hook the terminals back up, and it usually fires right up. Just a quick tip that has worked well for me thus far.
You'll kill an AGM battery doing that.
@@dayjeremy good thing I dont run AGMs. My dad does though, and he uses the same methods I do. His have always been fine for years
Absolutely love these videos with you both together, and really appreciate the honest advice. Thank you Wizards!
What happened with his daughter wrecked prelude? I never saw Hoovie do a "I bought the cheapest Prelude in the country" and im legit curious.
I seem to recall it was hauled off because it was totaled.
@@discerningmind and was replaced by a flute 😂
Most new high performance cars have a 1500 mile break in, then a break in service after. They are also engine limited during that period to stop you giving it the beans.
Correct. We also used to have a specific break in oil, usually lighter weight, that would get drained around 1200mi to assist with break in. You never want to rev it high or have it under load when all the metal surfaces are trying to adapt to each other.
Mates M2 had this and that first service after 1200miles or whatever wasn't cheap!
Yeah, he mentioned at the end that if it’s required they would put a disclaimer, but usually that disclaimer these days is enforced by beeps and hoops.
i remember seeing cars in the 70s and 80s that had specific Pamphlets about break in periods, something about piston rings....
Engines are often bench run in at the factory these days. With better metallurgy, tighter manufacturing tolerances and better lubricants, break in is less of, although not a non issue.
@@laurieharper1526 That doesn't mean that manufacturers still don't advise new car owners of a break-in period; with my 2020 Sentra that I've had for about a month and bought with about 15 miles on the odometer, this is what Nissan has to say in the owner's manual:
CAUTION
During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km), follow these recommendations to obtain maximum engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle. Failure to follow these recommendations may result in shortened engine life and reduced engine performance.
• Avoid driving for long periods at constant speed, either fast or slow, and do not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.
• Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
• Avoid quick starts.
• Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
It's not just to break-in the engine, but presumably also to break-in the trans/diff and bed the brakes.
I saw new corvettes show the redline like 2K rpm lower for the first 500 miles, but doesn't actually stop you from revving it higher than that. More like a suggestion.
My Mitsubishi Colt's leaflet specified a break-in period including a rather short oil-change interval. They even stated that this was caused by the cheaper manufacturing process of the engine without breaking in at the factory.
@@KalebKronic the C8 Corvette reduces torque in first & second gear for 500 miles. The redline on the digital tach is reduced to 4500 as well. Chevy also recommends checking the oil every fill up during break in as well.
That was a really cool show, with Mrs. Wizard asking questions! With nearly 50 years of automotive type mechanic repair under my belt, the questions were heard from everyone in the business. Like you said, some people will get aggressive about certain things, but like you, I just kind of agree, or that’s a great idea, and just let them think they are correct. It’s not worth fighting over, and you know what is really the correct answer! Thank you for a fun forum!
When I just got my driver’s license I used to check oil at the filling station. After a while I blew my engine because it was out of oil.
When checking at the station oil would drip on the stick so it looked full enough, even when wiping the stick and measuring again. It was actually nigh on empty all the time.
Moral is: I never check oil at the gas station. I check it before I drive off from home!
Yes, I often notice the fuel tank gauge reads higher while the car is being driven, presumably since the fuel is being sloshed around
@@ibelieveicansoar could be slope of driveway too (mine is).
I doubt these guys could make a video together in their first episodes, just a joy to watch how they're grown and ... well, just a joy to watch them in general. And of course, I will always crave more, more of the Mrs. Wizzard. Mooooh, moooh of her!!! Well, this got weird fast.
Great to see Mrs. Wizard getting more screen time. You guys make a great team. 👍
She’s the best!
You can tell she has experience with educating children.
Thanks for the video. I have loved every part and question on this video, and it's great to see Mrs Wizard with her great attitude.
This is a great episode. I like having your wife involve in a Q&A type situation. It takes the cool "facts only" edge off the Wizard only episodes.
With engine break-in I would disagree and just say “it depends”. Safest bet is to just follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. We picked up a Porsche GT4 from Stuttgart in 2016 and they told us that, while they recommend staying below 4K rpm for the first 1k miles, the most important thing is to keep the engine speed variable and to not let it sit at the same revs for too long. (Something to do with the rings forming a groove at one spot in the bore) That’s direct from the engineers. Jason from Engineering Explained did a great video on this subject too.
Yes! I kinda see what the car wizard is talking about, and yeah of course ignoring the break in procedure will not cause the engine to blow up immediately. But Im almost certain if you tear down a properly broken in engine, vs one that was beat on from day one, the broken in one will have noticeably less wear. (This is just my guess honestly. 🤷♂️)
@@chrishernandez2490 yeah especially on engines (usually high performance ones) that come with a specific break-in oil where they do a full synthetic oil change at the first service.
It's really more about changing the oil a couple of times in the first few thousand miles. You want to get all the particulates out that can lead to later damage. I think the voodoo of various miles/RPM limits/etc are just a reflection of that, which yields a service interval/instruction set for retards (normal consumers).
Engine break in isn’t a thing anymore
@@flight2k5 engine break in most certainly is a thing. it's in the owner's manual, people just don't bother with it, because it's a problem for the second buyer to worry about.
Wizard you have a lovely wife, such a pleasant person.
could dress up a little though
I agree 100%. Fred
@@rk22cc It's an auto repair shop, not a car show though. Her dress is appropriate for the environment.
She is such an asset to the show. This channel got better and better, also thanks to Mrs. Wizard!
@@RustOnWheels Absolutely. I've only been watching The Car Wizard's channel for about 5 - 6 months (thanks to Tyler Hoover) and I think that the show, in general, is more entertaining when Mrs. Car Wizard joins in. I really like this channel more and more. Fred
I love your honesty and just subscribed. I have a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon that does not leak oil and does not produce any visible smoke while driving. However, it consumes about 1-2 quarts of oil between changes. For this reason, I check my oil every time I fill up the gas tank. Oil is cheaper than a rebuilt engine. Many newer cars also consume oil, but many owners are oblivious to this until it's too late.
Keep up the great content!
I've had reasonable mechanics in my lifetime and I've heard a lot of these being debunked by them, but also would like to add is not to top off brake fluid. That's the easiest way to check the wear level of your brakes, if you top off and then go to change the brake pads, the fluid will overflow when you compress the calipers.
The way I drive my vehicles, the brakes usually last longer than the brake fluid (which is hygroscopic and needs a flush every two years or so), so I end up replacing fluid before I replace the brakes. That means that inevitably I end up with a full brake reservoir halfway through the brake wear.
@@plonkster I change my breaks every 2 fuel fill ups.
If you have a Hyundai Theta-II engine you better be checking the oil at every fill-up! lol!
Just don't buy one period.
Which engine is this exactly?
Yeah and when Fiat/Chrysler claim your engine has "acceptable loss." Although theirs is usually coolant.
@@klasseact6663 The one in early 2000s Kias, like the Sonata. Troublesome and terrible.
@@boilerhousegarage I think Toyota said this with their 3.5L V6. They said something like 1 quart of oil burned every 1000 miles is acceptable.
Thank you thank you your wife is awesome she's a great addition to the channel
Adaptive Knock Spark Control computers! Yes Premium does do something. Since 2011 Ford has gone to a more advance computers. They adjust for fuel and will advance the timing based on the fuel you put in. Ford rates their vehicles horsepower output on 87 octane and states in the manual that more performance output will be had on Premium fuel. These new gen computers are not like the old ones. Look up Adaptive Knock Spark Control
This isn't anything new... If it's in the vehicle software, it will do it. If it's not, it won't. Pretty simple.
Great job hosting, Mrs. Wizard! I, too, have used the heater-full-blast trick to cool down the engine.
I love these two. Salt-of-the-earth folks, for sure!
I was listening to my music and stopped to watch this.
The flute was the perfect segway between both.
It's a recorder
Godless Toyota i was also about to say that lol obviously not a flute
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow yes because it's the second most annoying musical instrument in the world
It was the perfect two-wheeled transport vehicle for in between? Oh, you mean it was a segue. ;)
Welcome to Hell here's your Recorder
One of your best videos! So many questions that I wondered answered. I’ll definitely just, stop, think, and make a maintenance decision after some critical thinking. Thx guys
For #2: some cars are electronically torque limited now for the first X miles for their break-in period. The C8 Corvette is one that comes to mind.
For #5: if you have an old car that always ran conventional oil, the gunk build-up over time can act as a seal, and the detergents in synthetic oil could break down the gunk seal enough to cause leaks. Other than that, it's fine.
For #6: Don't top off your brake fluid. If you're low on brake fluid, you either have a leak or your pads are low. You should get brake fluid flushes every few years or so like he says in #8.
For #8: Go by your owner's manual for oil change intervals. The manufacturer did hundreds of thousands of miles of durability testing, so they know better than the guys trying to sell it to you.
Gah, you brought back the nightmare of trying to play recorder in elementary school. If only they had the option of a harmonica I might have become a much more musical person.....
Another great one, thank you for my the daily dose of happiness!
Thanks for the updates on myths!! Many of these are from the old days of single weight oils and old cars. The new cars' tech has really advanced faster than some of these old myths that never die. You missed some of the oldie but goodies like driving long distance turn the headlights on to save the battery!! (Fords) or drag the brakes at first to warm them up (old metallic shoes or wet brakes). Thanks Mr. and Mrs. Wizard for the informative shows.
Nice to see you guys working so well. So the question is, when will you start doing a full old style Top Gear, both car test & car knowledge.
Give the recorder to Hoovie Jr.,,quickly
Yes
Or a Mini Cooper S with 100,000 miles.
0:51 blinker fluid is a real issue at least here in the EU Audi and BMW owner are well known for not checking the level of it. They are always without it.
Myth #1
Back in the day before self service gas stations, full service included checking your fluids. They'd top off your washer fluid for free and sell you oil, trans, or power steering fluid if needed. If the fluids looked bad or your mileage said it was time, your local gas station reminded you it was time for a change. Our nearest local gas/service station was two blocks away and their competitors were 3 more blocks away.
wizard sonny and Cher, harmonizing, pumping out the hits…I’ve learned a lot from this channel! Keep it up.
It used to be recommend to use a non-detergent oil after a rebuild.
One time we over heated on the Baker grade on I-15 in California. Turning on the heater cooled it enough to get us over the summit. After going down on the other side, and on into Las Vegas, the engine stayed well within range.
I remember when I had my ‘03 3L V6 Saturn VUE, if you had the oil cap off and started it cold, it took @ 10 seconds before you could see oil splashing off the front cam shaft. The lifters were noisy too until it warmed up.
Good job Mrs Wizard helping out with 10 important items- Thank the both of you. I learned.
About warming up the engine...something important was left out. Everything I've read and heard about...it is always a good idea to let the engine idle for at least 30 seconds or maybe up to 60 seconds to allow the oil to circulate around the engine...especially in cold climates. Every part needs lubrication inside the engine...give all those parts some oil before taking off. I think that's a "no-brainer."
I’m with you on this. I’m sure wizard wont see this post. I have an 03’ 5.3 chevy with 545,000 and still drives fine. Burns some oil on start up (valve seals). What I have done to this engine is…. Drive the snot out of it! Wot all the time and give it no mercy at all. Regular 90 mph on the Highway mostly unless in traffic in DFW. One thing I do religiously is let it get to temperature before I try to wreck it. I’m being serious. I drive it hard bc I have a back up truck when she gives me a fit.
BMW has a break in mode on brand new cars which limits engine power for the fist 1200 miles. There must be a reason for it...
to make sure the BMW gets to 100,000? 😉
So they doesnt get wrecked leaving the lot, but rather 1200 miles down the road.
@@willb3018 Nah, just till the warranty period is over :)
C8 Vette too
THIS IS HOW GOOD MARRIED PEOPLE ACT IN A AUTOMOBILE REPAIR WORKSHOP
Yes I agree. I only know of one other couple just like them. A RARE find these days.
This is all great information, thank you.
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand cherokee, I usually let that car warm up because I found out that if you run it cold, the transmission won't shift into overdrive until it reaches a certain temperature range, and I didn't know that until I looked it up online and found out that there are two sets of temperatures on what the transmission will do.
I also just did an oil change on it, originally had conventional 10W30 in it, but since it's a winter daily driver, and an occasional trailblazer for the summer, I put in 5W30 synthetic. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything, and it's nice to know from an experience mechanic that it won't.
Wiii-zard!! Never ever lose Mrs Wizard... You're so cute together, and seem to have a laugh most of the time 😍😍 Heartwarming stuff ❣️❤️
That old Case tractor is so cool! 🚜🚜
Mrs Wizard is really good in front of the camera also, Mr and Mrs Wizard make a great team, keep the vids coming, looking forward to the next one.
Nice curves on her too
Jeffery Epstein isnt a curvy 50 year old woman a little too old to be your type, jeffery? Lol
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow
😈
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow she’s not even 40 yet, I bet.
This episode made me remember how much I miss The Magliozzis...
Thank you, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard.
One of your most useful videos!! Thank you!
I think it’s a good idea to let an engine warm up long enough to get the oil flowing enough to start lubricating the top end of the engine. When it’s well below zero it takes a while to get the oil flowing even with a good synthetic. Your oil pressure gauge will read higher than normal until things get warm and moving. I totally agree that you can start a car up and rev it right away and it won’t blow up but you’ll definitely be doing an overhaul sooner than if you gave it a few minutes to warm up. When I was a young lad learning about engines I was told pistons are slightly oval and cylinders are round. As the engine heats up the piston will expand and become round to fill the cylinder. I don’t imagine that has changed since metal still expands and if there’s no place to expand to then there will be rather severe repercussions. If you abuse an engine you will pay a price eventually. Also the Wizard should know that some engines do require a break in period and in fact there are a few where the computer will keep power and revs down until the engine has a certain number of miles on it. I’m thinking all those 700 + Dodges are like that and they will not allow the use of launch control until they have a break in period.
And Corvette
Agreed, but the time is seconds. A Toyota 4 cylinder engine model graphic showed, after oil change and with an empty filter, it took 12 seconds for full pressure. Agreed again about not revving, preferably until at operating temps. For break in it's best to follow the mfgr recommendation. I doubt anyone does. Mine said to drive moderately for the first 60 miles, then I could do 50 or 55 MPH for the next 240 miles. That's maybe OK when you didn't buy your car 150 miles from home; break-in half complete. I simply drove home with a light foot and mostly stayed with the semi trucks. Break-in oil used to be a "thing" until the 80's. Drive maybe 2K miles and the dealer would change the oil free of charge, along with adjusting the carb. (1978 GLC, my first new car.)
I live where it can get really cold, -45 at worst without wind chills. On anything fuel injected (modern, not like the old mechanical systems, I will let it idle about 30 seconds n temperatures above freezing and a minute below freezing. With carbureted engines I double that unless it’s extremely cold (-18C or 0 F). When I can, in winter, I will idle the car long enough for warm air to start out the vents and you get to know how long that takes as each vehicle is generally different. These are for my comfort & peace of mind. Certainly are not scientifically based!! 😂😂
I have heard all the myths over the last 50+ years I have understood about vehicles. This is how I have formed my opinions. I definitely don’t subscribe to 3000 mile oil change intervals!! Some of the older vehicles I have or had, that was true when I drove them enough, otherwise I changed the oil annually. Today’s engines are different and can go some really long times between changes, depending on how you drive. I used to have a 1.5 hour commute, each way, for work. It turned out to be nice because by the time are home, work is out of your head (mostly). I went to the maximum intervals except in winter. In warmer weather the drive was easy on the vehicle. I didn’t drive beyond the speed limits (retired LEO) and so the engines just weren’t stressed. I live where trucks work best as there was always about 20% driving on gravel roads and the vehicles were 4wd. I burned a lot more fuel than in a small vehicle, but the roads beat those things to death. I changed the air filter more often than most people would think. I had vehicles with 320,000 km (200,000 miles) on them and the oil barely changed colour in them between changes, some change in colour but almost never black. I had a Mopar 3.7 V6 that was another story,,,, right from new, it was black 3/4 of the way between oil changes. The dealership said that was fine, but after 200,000 km (125,000 miles) I just wasn’t wanting to be stranded with a blown engine. It was otherwise great & the only smaller vehicle (2007 Jeep Liberty) I had that lasted well and wasn’t rattled to pieces! 😂. The guy I sold it to still has it. Saw him the other day. He is at 350,000 km range and still no issues mechanically, but the electrical is not as good. He is shopping for another good used vehicle. I may sell him a Ford Ranger I have city truck mostly now I’m retired. I have had as many as 32 vehicles at any one time, from 1929 - modern, but mostly 1970 or older.
I miss my Mercury Milan. Sold it with 200k on it and it still was running great.
Lucky man unless it had the aisin automatic
@@CRAPO2011 It did in fact have the Asin 6 speed.
@@wulfman15 figures haha those were really good cars the refresh 2010-2012 models brought the semi trouble prone 6F3S GM/Ford transmission which lives on today/2020 if fusion production was cut off
Great video Mr and Mrs Wizard! Enjoyed it alot! 👍👍
@12:40 Hell yes. My friend owns a 2009 milan I4 premier that looks just like that one! 343,000 miles on the original motor and trans with no warning lights. Yes you read that right. Absolutely everything still works from the speakers to the seat heaters.
Those cars with the 2.3L I4 are absolute TANKS. We just replaced the entire front suspension/steering and motor/trans mounts on my friends. Most of it was still the factory motorcraft parts!
With musical “talent” like that, don’t give up the day job.
I was hoping you'd cover ethanol and its effects on engines (including flex fuel vehicles). That seems to be a source of major debate, and one about which I'd love to hear your opinion.
I purchased a 1987 motorcycle this past year and a buddy recommended that I burn premium to avoid ethanol because the old motorcycles don't deal well with ethanol.
My carburated engines never taste ethanol, and i dont have to replace carburaters.
@@guywerry6614 premium has ethanol. You can buy 91 octane regular and 91 octane ethanol free (for an extra 40+ cents a gallon) side by side from the same pumps (yes, I know this is rare, it's common in my area though).
@@awesomeferret what area or state are you in ?
Just in case anyone checks on this, and wants to know: most gas these days is cut with ethanol, it’s a way to bump the octane safely. The reason it SOMETIMES can be dangerous is because old fuel lines can be corroded by ethanol, as far as functionality it’s fine. Most fuel lines in cars these days wouldn’t be impacted, even if they’re a gasoline only, because they are prepared for that corrosion.
But on older stuff it can certainly be a concern.
Love it dude, what an intro!! :-) xx
Mrs. Wizard is most definitely a keeper! I love the content as always! And I HAVE actually seen a couple of fistfights at auto parts stores over fluids. Ahhh fun times.
Thankfully I keep missing these MMA parts stores....
oh and ladys argue worse than men, just ask the guy who rides home with her.🎉
Don’t top off brake fluid either, it will just make a mess when you install new pads/rotors…
I’m curious about what I have read online as “fact“ that with an older engine with many miles on it that has some seepage switching from conventional to synthetic is not recommended because it can cause existing seepage to get worse. If the weight is the same it doesn’t seem that it could make a difference but then again consumption by seepage with conventional could burn and form a crust/scab somewhat covering up leaks? I know it is best to replace seals when there are leaks but is it enough to worry about tonight use synthetic during that interim?
Thanks for the videos, cheers!
i have heard this to and am also curious about this i can say i had a 91 k1500that had around a 150k on it and changed it over to a high mile synthetic and didn't have any problems but i have heard from people that did
I had to explain to my wife that low brake fluid is a sign of either a leak or worn pads, not a sign to add more. Then she made me prove it to her; she was astounded.
Mohawk Man yeah that’s a closed system if it’s going low you probably more than likely have a leak somewhere but hey atleast she found that out for sure because you definitely don’t want to screw around with having messed up breaks
I've heard something similair, that if there is seeping/weeping/leaking synthetics(especially the pricey ones) will flow more freely through the gasket's weak points. I've also seen some auto experts say that "high mileage" is designed to swell seals, and once you use it never go back...unless you want leaks.
I have a 2004 saturn vue with 157,000 miles and i have to check the oil every 100-200 miles since it burns so much lol. Youll definitely see me at the gas station checking my oil every time.
If mine wasn't smoking out the tailpipe it meant it needed oil 😳
The oil weight one made me chuckle. I'm pretty sure that for my 2001 Toyota Yaris (European Echo with Tiny but bulletproof 1.0L I4), I could put literally any commonly available engine oil in it and it would still run OK.
Love your stuff guys, very informative watching from the UK.
I Love your guys relationship!!! AWESOME!!!! 🙏❤️
when I bought my 2002 Harley, the manual stated to not exceed over 50 mph for the first 100 miles
Lovely video with Mrs. Wizard, very informative
Great Job guys! The acting skills are getting better every time.
EFI has saved the the rings from being washed out, with the exact amounts of fuel.
a carb. car floods the engine and cylinder walls with gas, and dilutes the oil with fuel to wear out the rings by 100k. miles...unless you change oil every 1000 miles...any longer a ring job... around 100k. nothing like today's vehicles.
I'm sorry you have a dim view on carburetors but your scenario is one for a carb gone bad, not a maintained one.
@@christianmotley262 You Are So Right...
that's why Rochester Quadrajet 4 barrel carbs...were called Quadraleaks or QuadraFloods...
carbs. ...on Most GM V8 vehicles, along with Carters, S.U., Ford holleys, Bendix, Solex, are so GREAT, No cars have had them on them for the last 30 years....Not Nascar, Indy car, Fomula1..or even most Motorcycles...just low budget drag racers, circle track cars, big blower aftermarket kits...people preserving the past...
EFI...today, tomorrow, and the future...gysot...
thank the vehicle you drive today, for having it.
Enjoy your Cold morning starts with a carb.
Tell the Wizard how great carbs. are... Not Me.
"Don't fight over recipes" I dunno, my grandmum and aunts were notorious for getting into fights over recipe conspiracies. lol
_"YOU LEFT OUT SOMETHING AND DIDNT TELL ME I KNOW IT, IT TURNED OUT NOTHING LIKE WHEN YOU MADE IT!!_
That was every wife and mother in the whole neighborhood when I was little. TV shows from the 50s and 60s did that in their skits
Very informative. Well done folks 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad he speaks about brand new break ins. Manufacturers typically test engines before install, thus breaking in for the most part. Motorcycles, however, have very mild test phases, at least Japanese ones for sure, and so require some special break in procedures.
As for premium gas, older cars did see improvement but it's not a major change. Not sure about newer ones with the high tech under the hood as all my recent vehicles have required premium fuel.
Engine warm up... my brand new car has a dash light specifically for too cold engine and does state not to drive till the light goes off. Motorcycles also have these, again at least in Japanese ones.
Never touch the brake fluid level. They are engineered to turn on the brake warning light when the pads wear out.
Not only that, topping off disc brakes will make a mess when the piston(s) are pushed back in for pad replacement.
I didn't know I was so rare...I do check the oil every time I get gas, always have. But then, all four of my vehicles have over 175,000 miles, and I like to keep a close eye on things.
I daily check the voltage of the circuit in my house and it hasn't burned down in the last 20 years.
Who would think checking your vital fluids was so important /s
Great video! Very helpful.
Thanks for the informative video Wizard 🧙♂️
Great Q&A! Love that Mrs.Wizard. She is a good looking woman with a great smile and personality.
With Canadian winters my recommendation is to start the car, move off as soon as the car is able, but drive with a light foot until the car is thoroughly warmed up.
Yeah and I usually let the motor run for 2 minutes before going on the road. At least, it's better than nothing!
With Canadian winters don't you have to let the transmission fluid warm up before the car WILL move? I know, it is a slight exaggeration, but I have seen a TH-cam video of a Subaru with a manual that wouldn't run in neutral with the clutch out because the fluid was so thick.
@@dustintunis9347 I'm Canadian. An automatic car trans will be sluggish when cold (-15 celcius or lower). After the car warm up, it's fine. Even on a manual car, it does not go into gear as easily as in summer, but once it is in, the car is not sluggish like one with an auto trans.
@@dustintunis9347 No, I have never experienced a problem where the transmission would not work properly even on the coldest days.
@@alexandrecouture2462 - I was thinking -40 and colder, it's gotten down to -15F here which is about -25C.
Im old enough to remember a car was considered worn out at 50k miles. Not the engine or transmission, but the rest of the car was considered wore out. And if it was close to 100k miles it was considered "ready for the scrap yard" even if it was still running good.
I used to have to check fluids while pumping gas (you don't pump your own gas here in NJ) back when I was like 14 and started training as a mechanic. The pumps were still analog counters and at the end of everyday, I had to manually open the tanks and count the amount of fuel left in the ground with my 10 foot yardstick. That's how far I go back.
Always take good care of your vehicle, every often, if you want it to last for a while. Every vehicle always have problems. Thanks.
Yes, he makes the point nothing will “break” if you don’t warm it, break it in properly, etc. That’s true but you’re reducing the life out of it. That proverbial BMW will go past 250k miles if an owner does take care of it and do preventative maintenance but it’s definitely failing just outside warranty if you disregard longevity precautions.
Extra urban environment... 😆 that made me laugh
Probably one of your best videos or not your best video thanks.
So theres only a couple of things that I'd add. Engine warm-up, be kind and give your oil 30 seconds while you bucle your seatbelt and turn on the radio for the oil to start moving. And about changing oil types, the problem is on motorcycles that have wet clutch-packs. Since the friction material soaks-in oil, changing oli types COULD (not won't, could) create clutch slip.
Other than that, great video! ☺