Paid someone to do it when they came to clean flue. He said no glue needed due to self adhesive on gasket. It fell off and did it myself. Great tutorial and it was easy and it stayed on.
Big thanks for your help. If I can add few things. #1 The tube I had happened to be hardened up at the end. Had to take nail and poke it after soaking tube in hot water. Then it came out danger quick. So be ready. #2 don't handle new rope without gloves and keep it off your body and clothes. Mine was very furry looking with the insulation type fibers. Was very itchy for a day or so. Thanks and good luck.
Was on the fence whether I should do this or not. Took a little longer than I expected, but that’s just down to me not knowing what the hell I was doing to start with. Was easy in the end. 2 things I learned: 1) Take a photo of the old ropes in position. I didn’t and battled to work out where they go on the door side :-) 2) Get a wire brush drill attachment to clean the old cement out, cleaned it to perfection in few minutes. Thanks again for the video, wouldn’t have tried it otherwise.
Thank you very much for this video -- it was clear, concise and answered all my questions about how to use the black gunk and whether one can actually start up the stove after only one hour of curing. :-)
Just replaced my gasket this morning with the same gasket Great directions . Didn’t dunk my rope in water but did use a paper towel to moisturize the channel
Helpful video. Sizing the gasket would help. For eexample, mine goes into a 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep channel. Do I have to use flat gasket or can I use the type that is not flat. And what size(s)?
That sure did help me. Thanks so much. I have the exact same stove but the smaller one 2460. I have the manual that has been very helpful, but there is not much else online that I have found but your videos. I was wondering if you ever close your primary air controls completely to slow the burning? The manual says to open it to a medium low but doesn't say that you can close it completely and just have the one for the catalyst open a bit say for overnight burning. Your experience with this would be much appreciated. I'm a newbie at woodstoves lol
@Anna van Tunnen The catalyst control knob should only be open a tiny bit, on the ones I refurbish I usually wedge a dime or maybe a nickel in the knob . Opening it too far will burn out the catalyst. Your primary air you can run where ever you like , but the lower you run/dim your fire the quicker the chimney will soot up 👍
I've never known gaskets to expand. My guess is that you may have purchased a smaller size than is required OR stretched it too much? My son did that last winter. Not good. Burned through way too much wood!
Hey there, thanks for that video, I have the same stove but can’t for the life of me remember the model name. I need to replace the temp gauge on the top, the catalytic converter doesn’t seem to work anymore and would love to know how to go about that. The handle on the upper left side that switches it on seems to not want to rotate, and of course the gaskets, both front and side. You mentioned the side being 7/16, do you know what the front is? All the best, cheers.
The Steel Cat is the catalytic converter that I use made by Condor in North Carolina which is non ceramic but cost a little more. I also use their top temperature probe. I'm sorry but I don't know for sure what size rope gasket the front door takes.
Cheers, thanks for the reply and info. Can you tell me the model of Vermont Castings that this is please, looking to get a manual online and they don’t show this model on their website anymore. All the best.
Hi There, Did you ever find out what the sizes of the gaskets are for this stove. Its odd that Vermont Castings dont have this info online, but anyway...
Very helpful video! Thanks. I recently bought a house with the exact same stove as yours. I have been looking for some help to operate it. If possible, I would love to ask you a couple of "how to" questions about the stove. Any chance you can email me so I can share a few questions?
@@proclaimliberty2000 Thanks! I'm new to the stove. Some really basic questions here. Here is what I've been doing: I light the stove with the damper open (using the lever towards the back on the left side) and leave the bottom open for air, just till it lights (maybe 5 minutes). It seems take a long time to warm up, several hours. Once it hits about 500 degrees, I close the damper (from vertical to flat). Does this sound about right to you? Also, how hot is too hot (when does It become dangerous)? Finally, any tips you have the stove, I'm all ears. Thanks for any help.
@@chuckbona7176 these cast iron stoves do take longer to heat up but 2 hours to reach 500 is a long time. The biggest problem of people operating wood stoves is they do not use seasoned hardwoods or the wood has too much moisture in it. Too much moisture in the wood will also crack a ceramic catalyst.
@@chuckbona7176 what causes it to become dangerously hot is when people fire up the stove with the side door and damper left open together too long which can damage stove parts and the flue piping.
@@proclaimliberty2000 On the tube it says: “Dampen THE AREA with water and apply the minimum amount of cement required into gasket channel, then press the gasket firmly into cement.” Do not dampen the gasket. Please correct your video so that people don’t have to buy twice. Dampening the channel aids in adhering the cement to the metal.Thanks.
I have the same stove as you, what operating temperature do you get the stove to when switching to catalyst. Also does your catalyst maintain your temperature? Mine will hold me around 500 regardless of what I do, I feel like the catalyst should be able to crank out some higher temperature, the only time I can get my stove over 500 is when I’m burning conventionally. Thanks for any help.
I have used this stove for 19 years now. My catalyst wil slowly go up to 1,200 fahrenheit once it's engaged and then slowly start going down as the wood is used up. This is based on the temperature probe on the top of the stove. My guess is your wood is either too wet or has too much moisture, or your catalyst is plugged and needs cleaning or has neared the end of its life and needs to be replaced. I aso keep an magnetic temperature gauge on the side door to monitor the firebox which is normally at 500 to 700 once the catalyst reaches 1,200 fahranheit. I always rotate the wood standing up clockwise around the stove before it goes in to get rid of any last moisture in the wood. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/TsQxYHSW0gk/w-d-xo.html
A catalyst stove is designed to run cooler thus being more efficient. A regular stove needs to get to about 1100 before all the particulates and smoke are effectively burnt off
So I bought a very old cast iron wood heater and discovered the gasket had been removed; how do I work out what size gasket I need? Would very much appreciate advice.
If you found out, I hope you'll post back here as I'm looking at an older stove wondering if it ever had a gasket to begin with and whether or not I could add one anyway.
@@calciumchloride710 I measured the depth and width of the channel where gasket would go and took measurements to a bbq retailer who worked out what size I needed.
Too much gasket cement causes the gasket to swell and harden. Don't apply it like that. If you want good coverage. Just lay your bead and then go back and smear it with a finger while removing excess. You only need an of an 1/8 inch bead and spread that out.
Yeah if the door c9mes off some stoves it dont happen then its the cement gotta be so hard to squeeze out the tube and trying not to make a mess Well it the good and the bad off wood burning i happen to like it just a draw back about my stove i just dont like but it works great gotta be why its still here sssooo tttoooaassttyy when its cold out side
OH MY GOD I CANT...oh im a moron.I have the same stove and I did not realize the doors just pull right up. By the way.When I changed my combuster the caulk on the seams is in need of replacement.What brand is on the market to re-seal the seams.
Does anyone know if a warped wood stove can be fixed? My mother's husband died so later for winter his brother asked to move in for a few winter months before retiring to his mountain hideaway and while there he was operating the stove with the door open. So I am thinking it would get hot then cool down with the door open and it warped. Now we cannot close the door. Is there a fix of did he screw it up so good we need to spend money we don't have on a new stove?
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Paid someone to do it when they came to clean flue. He said no glue needed due to self adhesive on gasket. It fell off and did it myself. Great tutorial and it was easy and it stayed on.
👍😊
Big thanks for your help. If I can add few things. #1 The tube I had happened to be hardened up at the end. Had to take nail and poke it after soaking tube in hot water. Then it came out danger quick. So be ready. #2 don't handle new rope without gloves and keep it off your body and clothes. Mine was very furry looking with the insulation type fibers. Was very itchy for a day or so. Thanks and good luck.
Was on the fence whether I should do this or not. Took a little longer than I expected, but that’s just down to me not knowing what the hell I was doing to start with. Was easy in the end.
2 things I learned: 1) Take a photo of the old ropes in position. I didn’t and battled to work out where they go on the door side :-)
2) Get a wire brush drill attachment to clean the old cement out, cleaned it to perfection in few minutes.
Thanks again for the video, wouldn’t have tried it otherwise.
👍😊
Nicely done how-to vid. You got right to the task without any fanfare, which is great. Clear instructions. Thank you.
With a last name like yours you must be Scottish or Irish laaaaassie. Haha. If you can hear the brogue accent maam. Godbless ya.
Thank you very much for this video -- it was clear, concise and answered all my questions about how to use the black gunk and whether one can actually start up the stove after only one hour of curing. :-)
👍😊
Sir. You gained me with your kind mannerisms and a God bless you at the end. Thank you so very much. God bless you.
👍😊 You’re welcome Brad!
Great video! I'd suggest using some latex gloves on the next go round but that's just me
Just replaced my gasket this morning with the same gasket Great directions . Didn’t dunk my rope in water but did use a paper towel to moisturize the channel
I use a spray bottle with water and spray the gasket until damp.
Helpful video. Sizing the gasket would help. For eexample, mine goes into a 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep channel. Do I have to use flat gasket or can I use the type that is not flat. And what size(s)?
Good video, simple practical and clear. I have to figure out the size of rope on my top loader, it’s leaking.
Sunjay Bedi 👍😊 Call the manufacturer.
Thank you! Quick and easy to understand!
Excellent video showing all the steps to do it correctly. Would that all stoves were built as nicely as this one with easily removed doors!!
👍😊
Nice job, made it look easy!
AWESOME VIDEO, THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Thank you. You helped me out!
thanks so much I realize I need cement and a proper size rope -- thanks
👍😊
Thanks for the demonstration. A pair of working gloves 🧤 would certainly come "handy".
👍😊
Nha just wash your hands.
That sure did help me. Thanks so much. I have the exact same stove but the smaller one 2460. I have the manual that has been very helpful, but there is not much else online that I have found but your videos. I was wondering if you ever close your primary air controls completely to slow the burning? The manual says to open it to a medium low but doesn't say that you can close it completely and just have the one for the catalyst open a bit say for overnight burning. Your experience with this would be much appreciated. I'm a newbie at woodstoves lol
@Anna van Tunnen
The catalyst control knob should only be open a tiny bit, on the ones I refurbish I usually wedge a dime or maybe a nickel in the knob . Opening it too far will burn out the catalyst. Your primary air you can run where ever you like , but the lower you run/dim your fire the quicker the chimney will soot up 👍
You cut too much air off and it'll just burn down and smolder. A low heat smoldering fire causes excessive creosote build up.
how do u kno fer sure what size u need? my burners are old & i don't have info on em
Thanks , video helped a lot, super satisfied with the out come.
👍😊
👍😊
Thanks for the video, worked great
No more anxiety about it. Thank you!
👍😊
Some one local is selling Dutchwest XL wood stove model 2462. Looks like this one and for $600. Catayler converter 2 years old
Yes it was good thank you
how do you measure the 7/16th? Also if you dont have old gasket what do you do?
I need the same information. Did you ever find out?
Gloves would be a good idea
Will the rope expand cause ours looks like it’s not very snug against the wall of the stove?
I've never known gaskets to expand. My guess is that you may have purchased a smaller size than is required OR stretched it too much? My son did that last winter. Not good. Burned through way too much wood!
Thank you you are helpful.
mark otzelberger 👍😊
thank you fine sir!!
👍😊
Thank you
👍😊
Tape at each end of the roap to do a nice cut whould be a nice trick also. 👌😉
Is it bad to stretch the rope
Yes. There’s simply no need to stretch it. Just lay it in place and cut to the proper length.
Hey there, thanks for that video, I have the same stove but can’t for the life of me remember the model name. I need to replace the temp gauge on the top, the catalytic converter doesn’t seem to work anymore and would love to know how to go about that. The handle on the upper left side that switches it on seems to not want to rotate, and of course the gaskets, both front and side. You mentioned the side being 7/16, do you know what the front is? All the best, cheers.
The Steel Cat is the catalytic converter that I use made by Condor in North Carolina which is non ceramic but cost a little more. I also use their top temperature probe. I'm sorry but I don't know for sure what size rope gasket the front door takes.
Cheers, thanks for the reply and info. Can you tell me the model of Vermont Castings that this is please, looking to get a manual online and they don’t show this model on their website anymore. All the best.
I have the Vermont Castings Dutchwest Extra Large Model 2462. They have different model numbers for the small and large size.
Hi There,
Did you ever find out what the sizes of the gaskets are for this stove. Its odd that Vermont Castings dont have this info online, but anyway...
@@mickmallon9375 Take a tape measure and measure the gasket channel.
Very helpful video! Thanks. I recently bought a house with the exact same stove as yours. I have been looking for some help to operate it. If possible, I would love to ask you a couple of "how to" questions about the stove. Any chance you can email me so I can share a few questions?
Ask away right here 😊
@@proclaimliberty2000 Thanks! I'm new to the stove. Some really basic questions here.
Here is what I've been doing: I light the stove with the damper open (using the lever towards the back on the left side) and leave the bottom open for air, just till it lights (maybe 5 minutes). It seems take a long time to warm up, several hours. Once it hits about 500 degrees, I close the damper (from vertical to flat). Does this sound about right to you?
Also, how hot is too hot (when does It become dangerous)?
Finally, any tips you have the stove, I'm all ears.
Thanks for any help.
@@chuckbona7176 these cast iron stoves do take longer to heat up but 2 hours to reach 500 is a long time. The biggest problem of people operating wood stoves is they do not use seasoned hardwoods or the wood has too much moisture in it. Too much moisture in the wood will also crack a ceramic catalyst.
@@chuckbona7176 I’ll try and send you some more tips today or tomorrow.
@@chuckbona7176 what causes it to become dangerously hot is when people fire up the stove with the side door and damper left open together too long which can damage stove parts and the flue piping.
How did you clean the creosote off the door?
Apple cider vinegar
was your adhesive Silicone? And was the water to aid the cure of the silicone?
You must use wood stove high temperature cement. Putting the gasket in water aids in bonding the cement to the gasket.
@@proclaimliberty2000 On the tube it says: “Dampen THE AREA with water and apply the minimum amount of cement required into gasket channel, then press the gasket firmly into cement.”
Do not dampen the gasket. Please correct your video so that people don’t have to buy twice. Dampening the channel aids in adhering the cement to the metal.Thanks.
I have the same stove as you, what operating temperature do you get the stove to when switching to catalyst. Also does your catalyst maintain your temperature? Mine will hold me around 500 regardless of what I do, I feel like the catalyst should be able to crank out some higher temperature, the only time I can get my stove over 500 is when I’m burning conventionally. Thanks for any help.
I have used this stove for 19 years now. My catalyst wil slowly go up to 1,200 fahrenheit once it's engaged and then slowly start going down as the wood is used up. This is based on the temperature probe on the top of the stove. My guess is your wood is either too wet or has too much moisture, or your catalyst is plugged and needs cleaning or has neared the end of its life and needs to be replaced. I aso keep an magnetic temperature gauge on the side door to monitor the firebox which is normally at 500 to 700 once the catalyst reaches 1,200 fahranheit. I always rotate the wood standing up clockwise around the stove before it goes in to get rid of any last moisture in the wood. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/TsQxYHSW0gk/w-d-xo.html
A catalyst stove is designed to run cooler thus being more efficient. A regular stove needs to get to about 1100 before all the particulates and smoke are effectively burnt off
Yep. Thats the problem with that junk. It's either really, really hot and using a ton of wood or too cool.
So I bought a very old cast iron wood heater and discovered the gasket had been removed; how do I work out what size gasket I need? Would very much appreciate advice.
If you found out, I hope you'll post back here as I'm looking at an older stove wondering if it ever had a gasket to begin with and whether or not I could add one anyway.
@@calciumchloride710 I measured the depth and width of the channel where gasket would go and took measurements to a bbq retailer who worked out what size I needed.
Too much gasket cement causes the gasket to swell and harden. Don't apply it like that. If you want good coverage. Just lay your bead and then go back and smear it with a finger while removing excess. You only need an of an 1/8 inch bead and spread that out.
Thank you
👍 big bead just dries and cracks, instructions also mention to knead the tube to mix well.
Gloves?
I really doubt the stove was hot while he made this video...
Yeah if the door c9mes off some stoves it dont happen then its the cement gotta be so hard to squeeze out the tube and trying not to make a mess
Well it the good and the bad off wood burning i happen to like it just a draw back about my stove i just dont like but it works great gotta be why its still here sssooo tttoooaassttyy when its cold out side
What's the "Best kept secret"?
3:28 No. Before applying the cement, be sure to knead the tube. On the tube of RUTLAND STOVE & GASKET CEMENT IT SAYS: “Knead tube before use.”
To ease the flow of the product. It's not a necessity.
I have NEVER seen anyone dampen the Gasket, OR seen it on the Directions on the Gasket pack. ??
This is what the directions said on the gasket cement tube.
The one I have says "dampen the area lightly with water" but it doesn't say about dampen the gasket it self...
I've seen that on other adhesives (E6000). The moisture helps the adhesive stick to the gasket.
@@bencovington1121 actually the moisture is to cure the silicone caulking.
OH MY GOD I CANT...oh im a moron.I have the same stove and I did not realize the doors just pull right up.
By the way.When I changed my combuster the caulk on the seams is in need of replacement.What brand is on the market to re-seal the seams.
Don't feel bad. I did the same! 🤫🤭
Man, wood stoves are messy creatures. Every time I work on one I am covered with soot.
Does anyone know if a warped wood stove can be fixed? My mother's husband died so later for winter his brother asked to move in for a few winter months before retiring to his mountain hideaway and while there he was operating the stove with the door open. So I am thinking it would get hot then cool down with the door open and it warped. Now we cannot close the door. Is there a fix of did he screw it up so good we need to spend money we don't have on a new stove?
BZ here in Western PA--nice job, well done! I'll do mine when we get some warm weather. KWIM
The fix would cost more than the cost of a new stove.
@@davegarber7964 Well no we got it fixed for a winter then bought a new one. The fix was not expensive at all.
so i dont need the stupid ceramic tape ?
Thank you
👍😊