Have you thought about using a tack cloth after using the airbrush to blow off the dust, before spraying color? It’s used it the automotive industry and it would grip and hold the dust instead of blowing it off. I love seeing the detail you have on your builds. This would have been cool in plumb crazy purple, but look like it will be another great build. Awesome job!
After sanding and when blowing off the dust...what’s in your airbrush cup? It looks like a fluid. I’ve never airbrushed before but going to try as I was given a Paasche Talon to use.
I'm a beginner, but I feel really passionate about this hobby. Is it worth it to get a airbrush? Because I am using spray cans right now, and I am getting pretty good results. Should I keep using spray cans as a beginner or should I go all in and get an airbrush?
This is just my 2 cents, but technically the airbrush is no biggie. The compressor and the extractor matters a lot more. You can get decent results with an unbrandred cheapish double action airbrush, but a cheap compressor will make you stop every 30 minutes because of overheating and without an extractor you are looking at all sorts of health issues. These also take up a lot more space than the airbrush. You will also have to learn a lot about what viscosity to thin your various paints to and clean the airbrush afterwards etc. The rattle cans save an awful lot of bother. And don't be surprised when your finishes will be nowhere near the spray can results for the first few projects. I mean if you like scale modeling definitely go for it, but you'll need some perseverance. This dude is an artist/perfectionist, but even most contributors to Scale Auto or Scale Aviation or other magazines still regularly use spray cans for various bits of their project (especially primering) because of the convenience and efficiency.
I am about to get back into scale modelling, and MOPAR cars will be my choice of builds. One area if I may tell you, is that the decals like that of the sides are really not supposed to be shiny. It might have been better to shine up the body paint first, then place the stripes. In respect, I know it is your model and your choice, I just like to keep it as close to the original as they were built back in the day. My 1st job or joy will be tribute to my 1st Mopar, the 1968 Dodge Charger, burgundy colour. Looking forwards to the rest of the build..
I am aware. It was intentional, these decals are not very high quality and won’t last all that long if they are not clearcoated over. They will dry out and fall off. I wanted to prevent that from happening so decided to clear over it. And since it already was going to be a bit of a custom build with a mix and match of parts. I figured this would fit in with that theme.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Thank you for the return comment. I understand fully. Can I ask you a question about older models that I did, back in the 1990s. I'd like to tear them apart and rebuild them, is it possible to do?
Awesome build.. Do you use decal setting solution on all decals including smaller ones. Or do you only use it on the larger ones and simply apply smaller decals as per kit instructions. Also do you dampen down your flocking with a finger or do you just apply it and then shake off the excess. Do you recommend using gloss clear or paint for this procedure?
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you. I used to be really huge into modeling, but life's not allowed me to pick up my beloved hobby. Hoping that I can get back into it. I never knew about the mold lines.
You made the mistake of asking a vote on the color basically leaving yourself with only 2 possible choices the Plum Crazy or the Go Green (True fans would have called it the proper name of Sassy Grass, Go Green being late 70's name switch same color code. Plum Crazy actually being "In Violet" at the time). I would have just surprised everyone by going with a very rare color variant Panther Pink (Or the correct name early 70's of Moulon Rouge again same paint code of FM3). You can watch Cuda videos all day long and see Green and Purple about 99% of the time as people are just too predictable. Or you could go with the sister color Sublime Green which most people probably wouldn't be able to notice anyway ;) Great video as always!
Can anyone help? So when I sand my model, it's nice, but when I go to spray it, there's orange peel, and scratches. What can I do to prevent this from happening?
Use a finer grit of sanding sponge to get rid of the scratches. Tom uses 600, that doesn't work for me since I use straight primer and no microfiller. I use 1000 prior to priming.
homewrecker44 Thanks, I really appreciate the help. Also, I don't use primer, is that a problem? As far as I know is, primer is just another way the paint can grab onto the model.
@@__AverageJoe I always use primer, it fills in some of the fine sandpaper Mark's. But more importantly it will show any spots you might have missed..tamyia makes a great primer..
@@__AverageJoe As they said before, use primer, sand it with higher grit and try much lighter coats. Some paints will always orange peel with heavy wet coats. Try spraying from further away(this doesn't work with every brand of paint and every colour) and try using heat or a warmer envionment for your paint to cure.
I've been using zero paints 3 times, each times it melts the plastic, 1 time with Tamiya white primer and 2 times wihtout any primer, does it needs to be used absolutly with ZP primer ? Thanks and congrats for your videos..
@@75Rnchero I use it over Tamiya white or grey primer, I've never had any problems with it. The clear goes over Tamiya acrylic colour too, but as Tom says, best to put it on in thin coats. But DON'T put Zero colour over Tamiya acrylic, but Tamiya acrylic over Zero colour is fine.
Bonjour Fabio je suis un nouveau abonné j'adore tes vidéos je t'ai laissé un commentaire sur une de tes vidéos je t'ai posé plusieurs questions Pour le primer pour du fer métal c'est quel couleur d'appret qu'il faut utilisé ? Et quel couleur d'appret faut il utilisé et dans quel cas ??? Merci d'avance de ta réponse Continue comme ça 😊😉
Hey Tom, great work.....is there any reason you use different size engraving blades to scribe as opposed to just one size? I like the engraving tool & blades, however I don't want to buy many different sizes if unnecessary, not to mention each blade is like $30 to $40 dollars, thanks Tom.......Chris.
Years ago I had 2 1970 Barracudas. I miss them but this takes me back.
Great video man! One of my first models was a 70’s Cuda and now after some years and many more models I’m getting another to see the progress
wow your finishs are amazing I been building for a long time and can`t get a finish like that maybe one day
He uses 600 grit b4 primer an 3000 after primer b4 the color....
I hope my Nova comes out as good as the Cudas paint job. Sweet.
You do the best work ever
Have you thought about using a tack cloth after using the airbrush to blow off the dust, before spraying color? It’s used it the automotive industry and it would grip and hold the dust instead of blowing it off. I love seeing the detail you have on your builds. This would have been cool in plumb crazy purple, but look like it will be another great build. Awesome job!
i have used them in the past. did not really make a difference for me to be honest.
I love MOPAR !!!!!!! Awesome color pick. I like Plum Crazy Purple on the Plymouth AAR Cuda's.
I agree but it's over done. I went with the rarer Panther Pink lol
Damn, thats nice. You make decals look easy.
I'm a Sci-Fi scale modeler, but sometimes it is nice to leave "50 subtle shades of gray" for some color. Looks great.
Perfect colour selection.
love that kit going to grab it this week with boss 302 Mustang
After sanding and when blowing off the dust...what’s in your airbrush cup? It looks like a fluid. I’ve never airbrushed before but going to try as I was given a Paasche Talon to use.
Nevermind. I think I got my answer when to started painting the green and used air without using green.
I am happy you chose the green. I am not a big fan of the purple. Another great paint job.
what other paint and clear companies would u recommend as i do not have a zero paints dealer close to me
I'm a beginner, but I feel really passionate about this hobby. Is it worth it to get a airbrush? Because I am using spray cans right now, and I am getting pretty good results. Should I keep using spray cans as a beginner or should I go all in and get an airbrush?
If you enjoy the hobby. Get an airbrush
This is just my 2 cents, but technically the airbrush is no biggie. The compressor and the extractor matters a lot more. You can get decent results with an unbrandred cheapish double action airbrush, but a cheap compressor will make you stop every 30 minutes because of overheating and without an extractor you are looking at all sorts of health issues. These also take up a lot more space than the airbrush. You will also have to learn a lot about what viscosity to thin your various paints to and clean the airbrush afterwards etc. The rattle cans save an awful lot of bother. And don't be surprised when your finishes will be nowhere near the spray can results for the first few projects. I mean if you like scale modeling definitely go for it, but you'll need some perseverance. This dude is an artist/perfectionist, but even most contributors to Scale Auto or Scale Aviation or other magazines still regularly use spray cans for various bits of their project (especially primering) because of the convenience and efficiency.
Thx for your respons, appreciate it!
I am about to get back into scale modelling, and MOPAR cars will be my choice of builds. One area if I may tell you, is that the decals like that of the sides are really not supposed to be shiny. It might have been better to shine up the body paint first, then place the stripes. In respect, I know it is your model and your choice, I just like to keep it as close to the original as they were built back in the day. My 1st job or joy will be tribute to my 1st Mopar, the 1968 Dodge Charger, burgundy colour. Looking forwards to the rest of the build..
I am aware. It was intentional, these decals are not very high quality and won’t last all that long if they are not clearcoated over. They will dry out and fall off. I wanted to prevent that from happening so decided to clear over it. And since it already was going to be a bit of a custom build with a mix and match of parts. I figured this would fit in with that theme.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Thank you for the return comment. I understand fully. Can I ask you a question about older models that I did, back in the 1990s. I'd like to tear them apart and rebuild them, is it possible to do?
Possible, yes. Worth your time and effort. No
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Okay thanks. Would you have any instructions in case I do decide to tear one down and re-do, including the paint?
I dont. Sorry
Beautiful colour good job
General question. I'm buying a Tamiya panel scriber. How often do you have to replace the blade?
When it gets dull. It will start hacking, jumping at some point
Do you let the paint sit in your airbrush between coats on the body?
Yes
Great color, it really pops.
Awesome build.. Do you use decal setting solution on all decals including smaller ones. Or do you only use it on the larger ones and simply apply smaller decals as per kit instructions. Also do you dampen down your flocking with a finger or do you just apply it and then shake off the excess. Do you recommend using gloss clear or paint for this procedure?
I always use setting solution.
I do not tap the flocking down
I've been wondering: how do you recognize the mold lines? Are they too sharp, etc?
they are wierd sharp line in places there should not be wier sharp lines.
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you. I used to be really huge into modeling, but life's not allowed me to pick up my beloved hobby. Hoping that I can get back into it. I never knew about the mold lines.
Looking good :) almost like mine in 1:1 scale :)
Really exciting build!
Awsum color choice....
Would love to see you work with pearl and candy colors
As always, perfect work by you
What dose primer do?
You made the mistake of asking a vote on the color basically leaving yourself with only 2 possible choices the Plum Crazy or the Go Green (True fans would have called it the proper name of Sassy Grass, Go Green being late 70's name switch same color code. Plum Crazy actually being "In Violet" at the time). I would have just surprised everyone by going with a very rare color variant Panther Pink (Or the correct name early 70's of Moulon Rouge again same paint code of FM3). You can watch Cuda videos all day long and see Green and Purple about 99% of the time as people are just too predictable. Or you could go with the sister color Sublime Green which most people probably wouldn't be able to notice anyway ;) Great video as always!
That's how this color of the body looks nice, that's successful.
Hi what's the camera you've used in the video (first angle). Thanks
gopro, all angles
Nice work my friend !💙✨🤙✨🏎
Can anyone help? So when I sand my model, it's nice, but when I go to spray it, there's orange peel, and scratches. What can I do to prevent this from happening?
Use a finer grit of sanding sponge to get rid of the scratches. Tom uses 600, that doesn't work for me since I use straight primer and no microfiller. I use 1000 prior to priming.
homewrecker44 Thanks, I really appreciate the help. Also, I don't use primer, is that a problem? As far as I know is, primer is just another way the paint can grab onto the model.
@@__AverageJoe
I always use primer, it fills in some of the fine sandpaper Mark's. But more importantly it will show any spots you might have missed..tamyia makes a great primer..
Robby Hood Awesome! Thanks again, I'll look into it, I'm new to painting, so this is very helpful
@@__AverageJoe As they said before, use primer, sand it with higher grit and try much lighter coats. Some paints will always orange peel with heavy wet coats. Try spraying from further away(this doesn't work with every brand of paint and every colour) and try using heat or a warmer envionment for your paint to cure.
Awesome job beautiful work as always can I ask do you go ba k at a later date and scribe/cut through the decals where the door shut lines are.
I cut the decals after placing and forming
What kind of air brush do you use nice work
How are you watching the video? 7:10
A co worker of mine has a newer Challenger this color. He says it's called Sub Lime.
There are actually two greens. Green Go (shown in this video) is slightly darker thank Sublime.
Sassy Grass Green.....for the Plymouth Cuda
Ah! Completely forgot about Sassy.
I've been using zero paints 3 times, each times it melts the plastic, 1 time with Tamiya white primer and 2 times wihtout any primer, does it needs to be used absolutly with ZP primer ?
Thanks and congrats for your videos..
its best to use it with zero primer. and also absolutly nessecary to spray thin coats. otherwise it will melt the plastic.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Thanks for your advice
@@75Rnchero I use it over Tamiya white or grey primer, I've never had any problems with it. The clear goes over Tamiya acrylic colour too, but as Tom says, best to put it on in thin coats. But DON'T put Zero colour over Tamiya acrylic, but Tamiya acrylic over Zero colour is fine.
Okay, will make another try, thanks Steve.
have built a 1969 plymouth roarunner yet if not could you and paint it matte black please.
Bonjour Fabio je suis un nouveau abonné j'adore tes vidéos je t'ai laissé un commentaire sur une de tes vidéos je t'ai posé plusieurs questions
Pour le primer pour du fer métal c'est quel couleur d'appret qu'il faut utilisé ? Et quel couleur d'appret faut il utilisé et dans quel cas ???
Merci d'avance de ta réponse
Continue comme ça
😊😉
How long did you let it sit before you ckeared it?
An hour or so
Hey Tom, great work.....is there any reason you use different size engraving blades to scribe as opposed to just one size? I like the engraving tool & blades, however I don't want to buy many different sizes if unnecessary, not to mention each blade is like $30 to $40 dollars, thanks Tom.......Chris.
I don’t use different sizes. I just use0.2
Do you use just Micro Set without Micro Sol? And do you brush it on top of the decal after placing it, as the instruction on the bottle suggest?
in this case i indeed only used SET underneath the decal
Great job!!!
Would you be willing to sell the finished project?
would you be willing to pay the price it woudl deserve?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel We can always have a little talk about it 😉
What would look even better if you stanced it and have a chop top roof!
James Kanipe I don’t think you know how a muscle car is supposed to look
Really great!
Plus, you could’ve made the roof black, which would be really classic
I love your videos and I have a question. Does anyone make a Hyundai Genesis Coupe model car? I've been looking all over for one.
No one makes one
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Thanks for the reply. Your videos make me want build a model car. Love your work.
This green is a true Mopar green, correct?
Correct
will you someday do some koenigsegg? would be really good
If there would be model kits available