How to replace oil pan gasket on a Ford 289
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Time to replace the oil pan gasket in your 1965 or 1966 Mustang or on your 289 or 302? I've got you covered! Heads up though, it might be easier to disconnect the steering linkage before putting the oil pan back on.
Oil Pan: OEM Replacement, Scott Drake, 5qt capacity, part # OP7U, purchased from CJP
Similar oil pan on Amazon - amzn.to/3S06zC4
Oil Pan Bolts: Kit, 22 pieces, OEM style, part # EB4, purchased from CJP
Gasket: Fel-Pro, one-piece, steel core, part # OS1326OT amzn.to/3zqKDHR
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The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and 4 speed transmission.
This video is a How To Install a new Oil Pan Gasket on a 1966 Mustang
Shot with GoPro Hero 5, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
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Andy, your videos have made me feel confident working on my 65' Mustang. Thanks for all of your detailed efforts. I'm sending you some coffee money for saving my butt and making me look like I actually know what I'm doing.
Haha, no problem, it's always great to hear that people are able to use something from my videos. :)
My only minor comment would be that I might put oil in before putting the brace and the idler back in place. Just in case the pan is still leaking and you have to remove it again. I really like your videos. Clear and concise.
That's a fair view.
Andy, another quality video for sure. I will be doing this project later this year so this helps a lot. Wishing you continued success.
Awesome, good luck, you've got this!! :)
Good job! I need that fast forward button when I'm working on my car.
You and me both!
Great video. About to tackle this job on my Cougar!
Good luck!
Thanks for this video - really helped me with mine!
Glad it helped!
Very helpful. Great heads up on the starter motor - I was prepared for the weight of that. Only difference with my experience is having to wrestle with A/T transmission cooler lines which partially blocked at least 3 bolts. Next up will be the Arning drop after viewing your video on it . . keep up the great work!!
Randy, thank for the feedback! I had another '66 before this one and it had the AT with the those lines you mentioned. They were in the way of a lot of the work I wanted to do with that car, I feel your pain. The Arning mod will be a great little "freebie" for your car. Heads up, watch out for the shims on the back of the Upper Control Arm, they fall off easily and can be a bit of a hassle to manage them while moving the UCA in and out of place. Good luck!
Thank you for your video! 🫡❤️👏
No problem 😊
I got the same one piece gasket and it was leaking from the rear. I can’t get it to sit flush on the ends. I get bulges in the seams. I never had this problem with the 4 piece gasket. Have you?
I have never used the 4-piece, so I don't have anything to compare it to. I do know that the corners have to be really clean, so the gasket fits down inside. You can put some Gasket Maker on the rim of the oil pan, sometimes that helps any weird spots. :)
Hi Andy, I know this is an older video but did you torque the pan bolts? I see on the web people are all over the place on torquing, 9 ft lbs or just 1/2 turn over snug. Any suggestions? Thank You
The service manual says 7-9 ft-lbs on the perimeter bolts, and 9-11 ft-lbs on the four end bolts. I should probably follow that as that's what Ford says, but I just snug them up good. There's no load on those bolts other than the weight of the oil and the oil pan, and the pressure in the oil pan is essentially zero. I've never had a leak from the oil pan gasket, so I'm either tightening the bolts enough, or I'm just lucky. :)
Great video. I love the lighting and camera angles on your videos, it really sets you apart from a lot of other videos on TH-cam. Keep it up.
Was that anti-sieze you put on the crossmember bolts during reassembly?
Awesome, thank you!
Yes, it's a copper based anti seize. Honestly, I don't know if needs to be on those particular bolts, but since then I have removed that bar a dozen times for various projects and it's always been tight (the bolts didn't work them selves loose) and I don't struggle with any rust on those bolts. :)
On a side note, I couldn't recall what you were talking about, I had to go back a rewatch the video. Wow, that video was bad. Music is too loud and I look uncomfortable in front of the camera. Not that my videos are Oscar-worthy today, but they are better. :)
Hey Andy, as I do one of these projects I take a look at one of your videos. How long did you wait before you put the oil in? Do you have to wait for the permatex to dry?
I've heard some mechanics put oil back in within a 1/2hr, and others give it an hour or two. Due to the schedule I work on my projects, there's often some time between parts going on, so I've never had an issue with the permatex stuff not working.
I'd like to believe the folks that rebuild the entire engine between each drag race on the pro circuits don't have issues with stuff like the permatex seals not holding up, but then again, they rebuild everything in like a half hour, so...... :)
Thanks for the video because I have to do my Ford truck and I’m using the same type gasket this was really helpful
Awesome, I'm glad it helped! :)
I always put brand new oil and filter when I do a job like this. I noticed that your oil was quite dark for just a hundred miles. Felpro are excellent gasket, I always use them for such jobs. Most classic Mustang owners enjoy doing these jobs, part of the Hobby to me!! I have never seen a video for classic Thunderbirds or early Corvettes, I guess they don't like working on them!!!
Thanks for the info!
How’s it holding up? I did mine few years ago with same gasket. I put on dry and it leaks really bad. Will try your method. May even buy a new pan. Thanks
I sold that car a few months ago, but it didn't leak one drop from the time I installed that gasket until I sold it. I'm going to be doing that same gasket on the new car, I expect it to do just as well. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you
Hi Andy, thanks for the video! What size socket did you use for the cross member bar?
Thank you! I use a 7/8" socket.
@@AndyKruseChannel Just picked one up. Thanks for the quick response! Enjoy the rest of your day
Will the steering linkage drop after the idler arm has been removed even if it's a power steering system?
Sorry Brotha, I don't know on that one. I know at least the one end will drop by pulling the idler arm off its post, but I'm unsure about the other end. Although, it may be enough to get you the clearance you need. :)
Empty it hot. Leave overnight, then work on it. He aware of you have hydraulic lfters it may not run right until the lifters fill up
The engine in this video has flat tappet. 🙂
My Mustang with the same gasket (installed 2 weeks ago) leaks at the rear seal - probably didn't apply enough sealer in those corners. I wonder if I can just drop the pan, pull down that portion of the gasket, clean and apply more sealant? Or maybe this is silly and should just get a new gasket?
If you applied any gasket sealant/maker to this gasket, it will be difficult to reuse it. Unfortunately it's difficult to find the leak on these motors, meaning it could be the corners as you described, the gasket not mating with the pan, the rear main seal, the flywheel/flexplate bolts not having loctite on them, etc. And when you go to pull it off, it may not be obvious where the leak is coming from.
You are likely just going to have to pull it all off and start over. While you're there, you might as well go after that Rear Main Seal too. Good luck!! :)
Thanks, my gasket came without instructions and this is the first one I've done on a 289 so I didn't know if I should put sealer on the gasket. Your video answered that. I removed both the idler arm and pitman arm. It gave me endless clearance. I used a ratchet strap and hooked it to the trans lines and hoist leg and was able to pull the lines a few inches to the passenger side enough to get them out of the way. Worked great. Thanks.
Awesome, I’m glad it worked out. 😁
What part number gasket did you use?os13260t or os34508r?
OS13260T. I actually made this video about a month ago and I'm happy to report no leaks!
Great! My pan has the indentions like you have on the pan that you took off.
Need to change the oil pan gasket on my 67 fastback. Had no clue how to do it now I’m certain I can do it. Thank you
It should be more or less the same process on your car, good luck!! :)
Why didn’t you remove the oil pickup and clean that dirty screen? FYI. Originally that oil pan gasket was two parts. So that deep groove at the front of the block required a special gasket that would take up the area not covered by the two part gasket. It wasn’t gasket filler. Someone prior to you installed an one piece pan gasket over the front U shaped gasket. Lucky you didn’t leak from that area. Looks great….
The oil pickup screen looks worse than it is.
Haven't had a problem using the one piece on all three of the classic Mustangs I've owned and the four engines between them.
What was the model of the Milwaukee driver?
The one I have 2457-20, and it's been a fantastic tool, I'd recommend one for sure! However, if I were to do it over again, I'd get the next model up, the 2557-20. :)
These are great videos Andy,I'm always itching to try doing something on my Muzzie. By the way what I did with my sump plug is to drill a hole to snugly fit a magnet about 1/2 inch long and 1/4 inch dia and using 2 part adhesive mix seat the magnet into the plug let it set and screw plug back into the sump.You will be quite surprised at your next oil change what the magnet picks up
Thanks!
That's a good idea, it would be nice to pull some of those small metals shavings out that never make it to the filter.
Is this the same process for an inline 6 200 ?
I imagine it's very close. In the simplest form, we're taking off the old cork gasket and installing a new rubber-molded style. Most cars have this type of gasket option, the 200 should be nearly the same. :)
Another great video Andy. Would be good to see a video on jacking up the car. What jack points do you use? How high do you jack the car up? Where are your jack stands placed etc. Cheers from Australia.
Thanks!
For jack points, I use the rear axle, the two frame locations in the rear where the front end of the leaf springs attach, the two frame rails just outside of the transmission tunnel, and the subframe brace under the oil pan. I have used the pinch locations that are sort of under the door hinges, but I've received an earful about how that's not a good place to lift the car, so I haven't done that in a while.
However, it's funny you ask about lifting locations because I made a small mistake last week using the subframe brace as a lifting point. The short version is the car slipped off the floor jack while I was lowering it back down and the metal "puck" of the floor jack went right up inside oil pan and crushed it. I tried turning over the engine by hand and after about a half turn the crank hit the pan. Pulled off the pan and everything was fine, except I needed a new pan. I took that opportunity to check the rear main seal (I suspected it was the reason I had a leak in the back) while I wait for a new oil pan to arrive. The result will be this Thursday's video, replacing the rear main seal. I don't mention the reason why I pulled the oil pan to begin with, I'm kind of embarrassed about it. Now you've got some "insider information" on this week's video. :)
Hmm I guess I'm the only lucky fellow who has the dipstick riveted into the bottom of the oil pan. Not sure how to take that out without breaking it.
Wow, not sure how that happened?! I guess it's time to buy a new motor, but with some fancy new go-fast parts?! :)
Why didn't you show the viewing audience how easy it is to put that top bolt in the starter housing? It's a B%^&ch.
That bolt is easy if you use an 18 inch extension on the end of a ratchet. :)
Andy I’m thinking of replacing my 302 oil pan gasket myself. Is it fairly easy to install with my Falcon on jack stands or for $350 have a shop do it. And is it a good idea to replace the rear seal while I have it apart.
George
If you're up for it, I'd definitely say do it yourself, especially if you were planning on spending $350 because you could use some of that money to buy any tools you don't have and in the end you'll still have the tools.
I think with this video and the videos I have done around replacing the rear main seal, so should have enough info to tackle this job. I'm guessing the Falcon is not your daily driver, so take your time, write stuff down if you need to, rewatch the videos, and get'r done! These kinds of engine maintenance tasks can seem a little overwhelming or difficult, but right around the half-way mark you'll notice that it's no where near as scary as it seemed in the beginning and you'll have a new skill at the end. That sense of accomplishment is intoxicating, it feels really good when you can take on something new like this and crush it. Good luck Brotha, you got this!
Andy what torques settings did you use for oilpan and rear main bracket
@@georgea5478 65 ftlbs on the rear main cap, about 14 ftlbs on the oil pan bolts.
How can you tell if the last two rods are up with the pan on the engine?
The pan won't come out if they're down. Put a socket on the crank bolt, turn it clockwise about 1/4 turn, try to remove the pan. Continue until the pan can slide out.
However, it's easier to just lower the steering linkage by unbolting the Idle Arm from it's pivot mount, then you don't have to worry about the crank position. :)
Good video - my hands are never that clean when working on any car.
Thanks!
Haha, sometimes they're really dirty. Sometimes it takes a while to film what I'm doing, even multiple days during modification or part swap. I work during the day so I only get the evening and weekends to work on the car. There's a chance that if my hands are clean, it's been a while since the last part I filmed. ;)
Great job. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for watching!
Great video… love the bloopers😂😂
Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Andy!
Thanks!
Great Video!
Glad you enjoyed it!!