I HEAT THIS HOMEMADE RADIATOR FOR FREE Using Waste Exhaust Gas from a Diesel Oil Heater Chinese
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มี.ค. 2023
- I HEAT THIS HOMEMADE RADIATOR FOR FREE Using Waste Exhaust Gas from a Diesel Oil Heater Chinese.
this is totally free heat, that would have just gone outside!
PUMPING HOT AIR INTO MY HOME
I bought one of these for my garage, and then thought....... I could heat my home with this! So that's exactly what i did! It is working great pumping hot air into my home. It is keeping us nice and warm and super economical.
I have a carbon monoxide detector just in case, but you don't get any fumes indoors at all
.
I hope this may help you in some way. Even if it just makes an idea pop up in your head, of how you can heat your home in cheaper way.
Thanks for looking at my videos cheers Andy..... If you can be anything, be Kind.....
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You should use some baseboard heat pipe with fins on it to radiate the heat. You can use the pip with no bends and radiate more heat than just the pipe. It will lower the restriction.
i might try that, thanks
cheers andy
@@andyfireblade Looking forward to see it. I have the same heater here in the US and I have a length of it, but it is for something else, but if it does work, I will cut a piece off and use it on mine.
I waqs thinking of using a heat exhcanger to heat a copper baseboard heater, have the exhaust running through it and a slow water circulation pump
They sell a cheap baseboard heat tube at Home Depot for $33 that is 24" long which would work perfect to capture some of the heat (or maybe two of them?) I may try that some day in future.
Or wrap electrical wire around the copper and solder it to it in spots
The exhaust pipe should run slightly down hill throughout the copper pipes, so external exhaust vapour will exit at the lowest part of the exhaust system, which is outside the property.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@@andyfirebladeI ran a 8ft exhaust ( for extra heat ) with a slight climb at the end and almost killed my new heater. I think the problem is when you turn it off condensation builds and causes back pressure, only for the first 5 mins on start up but the black smoke that was coming out 😬Once I changed it, it works great 👍
I have a bit of experience recovering energy from fossil fuel exhaust streams.
A few comments:
Typically you wouldn't want to cool it down too much as the condensation will allow acids to form in your exhaust duct as SOx NOx mix with water vapour. While it is hot enough these gases move through without issue, but when wet they form acid rain. The lowest exhaust temp is determined by the contaminants in your fuel stream and I recall it being between 80 and 120 degrees C - aiming for 120 deg C is a good guide.
For a properly designed heating unit the energy extracted by reducing exhaust temp from 120 down to something before condensation is a tiny percentage of the fuel consumption and really doesn't improve efficiency much at all. Dropping it to beyond condensation can release a fair bit more energy but you risk destroying your exhaust pipe quickly.
To get maximum efficiency overall you should run a generating set, that would supply electricity to your home and heat to your home via the radiator and some exhaust gas heat as well.
hi matt
thanks for your comment.
interesting
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
I'm sure the instructions say no more then 270° of bends on the exhaust.
Also if the power supply goes the Heater will melt. I'm fitting a power switch over so if there is a power cut it's kicks over to a battery to save the heater from melting.
Any time you modify the vent on a fuel burning appliance you create several problems. We always considered the wasted heat as the cost of proper operation. I would imagine there is some heat that can be recovered but how much before you run into problems? It’s also not good to rely on the equipment’s safety controls since they don’t always work properly. That being said you are creating a condensing heater that makes water. You raise the thermal efficiency from around 80% into the 90%s. The only problem is you negatively effect combustion which means bad stuff can happen like high levels of carbon monoxide.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Great idea... when the weather gets abit warmer and i can service my heater i will try this when i reinstall, Thankyou Andy ;)
Go for it!
cheers andy
Creating a bell out of some kind of thermal mass, where the outflow of gases is higher than the inflow, but still lower than the top of the bell, would result in much more of the heat from the exhaust remaining in the room with you. This borrows from the masonry heater/rocket mass heater concepts which are so well-proven, at this point.
good plan, give me an idea.
thanks andy
@@andyfireblade - Are you asking that I give you an idea, or that I already succeeded in doing so?
@@jasonbroom7147 you have given me a new idea for a new experiment. thanks . i will do it tomorrow. cheers andy😁
Hi there, another tip for you, you need to be a lot closer to get an accurate reading of the pipe. Laser thermometers take an average reading of an area and the further from the pipe you are the bigger the area will be. the laser is just to help you aim, its not actually showing where you are aiming exactly.
Thanks for the tip!
cheers
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
You can get the ticking noise away, by drip feed the burner with a servo/stepper motor driven needle valve
Should put something behind heat exchanger (radiator) to reflect heat more outward. That concrete/block wall will suck away the heat and spread into more block. Depending on insulation or other wall characteristics you might retain or lose usable heat.
The radiator pipe might be built with a more zig-zag form (tilted) slightly so self cleaning of the built up condensation (acids) will travel, self cleaning
down hill throughout the exhaust exits.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Great videos Sir. You are actually doing what only I think about occasionally and then lack the drive. Does it get sooty? I ran a couple of MTR length with a slight downslope and I got some soot after running on low for a few days. A blast flat out fixed it but I shortened in the end and the soot went away. Just fyi
i have only just tried it out , so dont yet know the long term effects
yes, a good blast would be good
cheers andy
Try a small car radiator increase the exhaust size through a dry radiator and put a fan behind it you will get a ton of heat out of that but increase the exhaust size
Might be worth using pulled bends in the 22 rather than soldered elbows. If the gasses can flow better you might find the pipework heat up better.
good thoughts
cheers andy
It's them sharp bends, impeding the exaust flow...
yes, not good for the flow of the exhaust gases
cheers andy
could you do a summary video comparing all the different types of exhaust gas recovery youve tried and which one worked the best or why some of them didnt work?
good idea, i will look into it
cheers andy
Plumber says if exhaust more than 4ft long it can cause the fuel not to burn cleanly is that true have you tested for co2 ?
You might be able to make a coil and use it to heat water. That way you’ll have heat and hot water. I would think the water would really remove a lot of that heat. The thermal mass of the hot water might balance out temperature swings too.
Thanks for the tips!
Really nice work Andy,,om thinking these towel heater i you can find a used one it might work as a heater,because bending is all ready there..regards from a dane....
Great idea
Your normal body temperature is approximately 37°C Andy, so the temperature reading you're getting on that meter means you should be able to touch that radiator/exhaust pipe without getting roasted.
Also, have you tried instead of heating the outside air up you're bringing into your living space, have two holes in the wall and recirculate the air.
The warmer the air gets when recirculated through the heater is easier to heat than the cold outside air, giving better efficiency overall.
This could heat your space quicker and save you some extra £'s.
I've done readings over last winter and humidity in the UK outside can easily reach 95%.
I wouldn't want that in my house...when the house cools or that hot air (because it's went through the heater) hits a cool wall behind a wardrobe; it can condensate and cause damp/mould.
My diesel heater in my campervan recirculates the inside air, that's how it was professionally fitted and apparently they perform better that way.
Perhaps you've found this out by now Andy 👍
hello my friend, thanks for your comments, thats really interesting. keep warm this winter, kind regards andy
@elbarbero399 I'm not suggesting bringing the exhaust gasses and air for the fuel mixture into the living/work space, just recycling the already heated air.
As the air warms up then eventually enters the heater again to be reheated, it's get's easier to heat each time; with each cycle.
The same way air conditioning works except and air conditioner cools instead of heating.
We condition the cool air and each time it passes through the unit, the air cools more efficiently.
It is impossible to run out of air, we are just recycling it through the heater and not the combustion chamber.
That's how mine was fitted in my small campervan (professionally) and I have never ran out of air. 👍
@elbarbero399 They aren't that loud to be fair, Once up and running I don't think anyone will notice. I've never had a complaint from anyone I've parked beside in five years, even when I've asked. Go for it, they're great little heaters elbarbero399 👍
don't know about the Chinese units but the more expensive units have temperature sensor in the air intake so measures the room temp..or in my case motorhome .when up to temp it is barely running ..open the door on a freezing day and it kicks in on full blast
@@alanhayward5579 That's 100% correct Alan, and why it's better to recirculate the inside air; efficiency!
Prob a stupid question but considering the heat produced from the exhaust would this melt the solder in the fittings therefore allowing the fumes to escape?
good point, but no the joints didnt melt.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Great idea and set up. Cheers from America. I wonder if "bendable" copper pipe would be even less back pressure?
yes, i think these u bends are a little restrictive for the heater. good point, cheers andy
Please hold temperature gun no more than a few inches away from the pipes. If gun is a metre away from pipe, you are measuring average temperature over a 100 mm diameter area.
thanks andy
Plumbing wise, each 90 degree bend has the flow restriction of around 0.5 metres of straight pipe. As Kevin 34ct says, a central heating skirting Radiator, or even a fanned convector radiator (Myson) could be interesting to try?
yes , each bend gives restriction that is not good for flow.
good idea
cheers andy
Add fins like an air conditioning condenser, put it in a box and add an electric fan to blow all the heat out of the box.
great plan, thanks
Great idea as so much heat is wasted out of the exhaust pipe but I do think by doing this you have created a lot of back pressure and the burn will not be as clean causing your heater to soot and carbon up possibly condensation issues in the exhaust too will be interesting to see how you get on long term keep us informed
Great point! yes i agree
thanks for your comment
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Great idea u should try to run sheet metal on the wall then put the copper pipes on it to reflect the heat i live in nyc and i do it too my radiator in my home and it helps let me kno if u decide to try it will love to see the results 🥂
Great idea
I see a red pipe and I want to paint it black.🎶🎼😂
Brill mate enjoy your videos
Glad you like them!
thanks mate andy
Good experiment, I wounder instead of a wall mounted radiator what about underfloor heating? Same set up but just bedded into a screed
thats a great idea, thanks for sharing
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Possibly use a larger copper exhaust pipe to assure there is no back pressure on the heater. You can use a reducer to connect to flex heater pipe.
that true good tip
You can also run piping in a tub for hot water & run water thru heater core for more warmth.
i have dont this in one of my other vids. please take a look
cheers andy
If you are meaning to run the exhaust pipe through water to heat the water, this is not a good plan as it will cool the exhaust gases too much and allow acids in the exhaust to mix with water vapors that condense in the cooled exhuast pipe. Very quickly you'll get holes in the exhaust pipe.
@@ClinttheGreat what if it’s stainless steel like in instant hot water propane heaters?
Hi, I have seen an ordinary central heating radiator used, but make sure you feed the radiator from the top and ensure the exhaust is going down hill all the way into the radiator to eliminate any moisture build up in the pipe, then exit the rad from the bottom on the opposite side to the inlet and then out the wall still in a downward direction to minimise moisture in the pipe.
I am about to try this with a single panel rad. of a size of 500 x 500 mmm maybe thats too big?
hello my friend
i did this with a radiator , please see this vid and some of my others.
th-cam.com/video/8w689dCapNs/w-d-xo.html
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
please take a look at my other vids also
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Now that’s a sealed system Andy. Now no one can moan about the build up or acid. Although it could be angled slightly more to let the combustion fluids out and away. Wrote this before you sprayed it with non heat paint and I am not sure it will last mate. Plus watch that first couple of burns off. Now who is moaning. 🙈🙈🙈
Best regards,
Scott. ✌️🙏✌️
cheers andy
Have you ever thought of using electric storage heater and remove the electric element and re plumb the exhaust in either copper or extended flexible exhaust, and store the heat for release after the diesel heater is off.
thats a good ide, i will look out for one.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Can the pipe work be more H shape like a towel rad might be less restricted that may shorten 5mtr length and exhaust easier but great thanks.
good idea
that sound good
cheers andy
Vids on my channel: Did similar only your exhaust might be too long leading to back pressure then coking up hence I went with a twin outlet. Pipework running down is good, not so sure how long solder fittings will last.
Condensation hear is good as it's better than dry air at transmitting heat to the copper.
Yes we hear that finned would be better, but you'll know if it's effective given the temperature differential between the start and end of the copper I used boiled linseed oil to burn off and therefor blackening the pipe. Still to add a central, 3rd pipe to mine.
i will look at yours.
thanks for looking regards andy
For van use ..you could put that exhaust coil through a water cylinder for winter hot water
good idea, i did a similar experiment in one of my other vids.
click on my used name andyfireblade to see it.
what bike have you got now? i have a kawasaki er6n
cheers andy
Hot air go's up but the exhaust is close to the ground,i think put the exhaust higer so the pipe got hot i think.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Spray paint will enable correct #s?? Another layer stopping heat transfer..
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
And that laser is not point where meter takes reading. Its big roundish area near that point. Black paint makes it suitable for ir thermometer. Should measure that size pipe from 5cm away.
If you used bigger diameter tubing it would not restrict the output as much. Apparently they are tuned to have a certain diameter pipe on the output. If you use the same diameter it will not combust properly and you will have problems with soot build up and or diesel or whatever oil you are burning coming out the intake port., It will build up and you will get a gurgling sound unless your intake is facing down , then it will drip the unburnt fuel out the intake port. But unless you fool around with the setting like fan speed or fuel input the combustion may not be complete.
thanks for your comment
cheers andy
A sleeve filled with sand and copper dust around the copper pipe will absorb the heat quickly and release slowly
great comment thanks andy
Tried a similar length of pipe in my shed and it worked (for a day) heater packed up with an error code (10 ) I had to take the heater apart and clean it up.
so - basically - I don't think it will work.
i think tight bends are not good for the heater.
and if we put bends in, a wider pipe would help
cheers andy
You should have more views. Thanks!
I appreciate that!
I can imagine a larger diameter fire resistant exhaust tubing (to avoid any back pressure problems) and much more of it than your 3 meters of expensive copper pipi spider webbing all over an interior wall to fully maximize the capture of the exhaust heat.
yes, a larger diameter would be better, good point, cheers andy
Please try if it works with an old normal warm water radiator, that they use with warm heating water.
May be try air floiw resistance first by blowing trough it. Too much resitance, at least more than your copper pipe, may disturb the diesel heater air flow and overheat and damage the diesel heater.
i did try this on a normal household radiator. please see this video in my other videos. or click on my user picture. cheers andy
Just brainstorming the problem but, would it not be better to install some kind of fan to help keep the gas flow right? You can then run a pipe all the way around the workshop and not worry about combustion problems due to low output gas pressure?
good idea....cheers
Log burner fan work on heat and spin for free
A coil would be better than bends. The flow would be better with no restrictiction or back pressure. Car AC use a similar shape to that but with aluminium fins
hello david
true! and thanks for the comment.
you will love the new version!
i will upload it tomorrow.
thanks for looking in as well, cheers andy
I see you have posted many different setups of collecting otherwise wasted heating potential, but I wonder, will we someday get to see summarized results from your multiple experiments?
well thanks for looking my friend, good point.
there are more to come.
i have a new idea, hahhaha
it could be the best one yet
cheers andy
Run a pipe through a normal water filled radiator screwed into the wall?
good idea
cheers andy
Where do you get the quieter fuel pump from do you have a link please?
amzn.to/3G7NjxM
try these cant remember which one, sorry
If you are going to use copper pipe, don't use soft-solder fittings, the solder will melt, system fall apart, products of combustion then enter the room. If you must use copper, get a cheap tube-bender off flea-buy and do it one-piece, (better gas-flow), or use silver-solder and end-feed fittings. Be careful with noxious exhaust!
thanks for the tips.
great
cheers andy
Or alternatively compression fittings ;)
All this seems to point to the fact that the heat exchanger fitted to the heater is just not good enough for the amount of fuel being burnt. Or are you over fueling
hello bill, yes you are right, there is too much restriction really.
i wouldnt recommend having this many turns, unless they were more sweeping turns.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
put in alpine to increase air to fuel ratio.... should help with restricted air flow
great thank you
🎉
There is a weep hole in the exhaust muffler that should be pointed down, all of the exhaust should run downhill, the unit is lower at the outlet to the radiator.
If you watch his earlier videos, he names exactly this
Did you provide long time tests? Higher airflow resistance may overheat the machine and destroy it.
true, these u bends are not really good for the air flow of the machine, please see my other videos
cheers
@@andyfireblade Did you experience any problems due to flow resistance? In which video?
Your 3m copper pipe seemed to work well and had a huge heat gain. 50%? It also is straight inside and does not have this waveform of the genuine pipes.May be an ordinary 10cm dimeter oven pipe is better with low flow resistance and better heat distibution.
yes, i agree! i dont think that these u bends in the pipe give a good flow to the exhaust gases. this could potentially put more strain on the machine. please see my other videos of the heater, i think there are better ways to use the heat from the exhaust.
cheers andy
How do you join the copper pipe to the exhaust from the heater?
with a jubilee clip, but put a couple of slits in the exhaust so it can be clamped to the 22mm copper
cheers andy
difference at noise?
no noise difference
Andy there is a guy on youtube i think he lives in Aus. he seems to be the doctor of chinese deisel heaters and he says the max amount of bends should not excede 270 degrees in total.....im sure he said 270 degrees....ill try find the video and ill send you a link....he says it puts stress on the burn chamber the more bends there are. thats why the come with such a short exhaust pipe. and it could be the reason your getting so much condensation. anyway ill post a link if i find it
yes ideally the exhaust should be straight and direct.
cheers andy
Have you looked into buying larger quantity of Kero say 100 litres at a time I have contact
hello simon
that is good to know
i think i have enough now for this years bad weather.
pretty stocked up.
how is yours going
andy
The manual for these heaters... Recommends to not make the exhaust bend, more than a total of 270 degree's... for efficient burning and less soot build up in the heater....
More than 270 degree bends in total, lowers the efficiency of the burn.. and can potentially cause it to produce carbon monoxide....
yes, i totally agree. i would never use these u bends for a long term use. i have used a long straight pipe that works better. or maybe a wider pipe, with less restriction . cheers andy
What kind off bends? Hard turn or slow bent. I think that makes a difference. Can be the same 270 degree, but blocks more or less flow.
I was waiting for someone to quote the manual. Thanks
You could use the exhaust to charge a battery...that way you can release heat on the other side of the shop as well...fuel is expensive I don't blame you trying to get every penny worth of energy from it.
The fan has to work harder the longer the exhaust and the faster the baring will wear out, hope im wrong.
hey martin, i think you are exactly right.
i dont think i would really recommend these u bends.
more free flowing gases are better.
thanks for looking, did you see my other heater vids.
just click on my user name, andyfireblade tell me what you think
cheers andy
xxxxx
Can you do the same again but put the heater on max power and tell us the copper pipe temps...........thanks pal
Yes I will
cheers andy
A little fan by those black pipes blow in that heat into the room
good idea cheers
Try some 45 bends, twice as many but less resistance in exhaust flow, and some heat reflectors behind the rad.
Although thinking about it less resistance in the pipe may also reduce the heat transfer due to the increase in flow, so it's swings and roundabouts.
good idea
cheers andy
Try heating water with it …..could connect it to the heating coil on a hot water cylinder??
i did this in another video. please take a look
cheers andy
The heater exhaust should be slightly higher than the pipe. Down hill run.
good point thanks
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
What if you put it In a big sand container
good idea!
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
I'm not sure if you need the muffler on the end.
it doesent do a lot
the muffler
Little 12v fan to blow against it ?
good idea thanks
andy
Floor heating. Imagine.
thank you for your comment
good idea!
did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
run through water and mass heater
Have tried a air-conditioned coil
Not yet! wouldnt mind trying
would a fridge one work?
regards andy
@@andyfireblade I don't know. And I haven't bought one I seen this on you tube. I live in the states. I'm not sure I can get one here. But the coil is made of aluminum and fins . I was thinking if you call it that you put 4 or 5 and a fan behind it 🤔 good luck hope you have fun and save on your heating bill
I'd run that piping through a tank filled with water or oil
good idea
The problem is these bare pipes are not easily heat exchanging - they need heat echange fins as found in baseboard radiators to radiate heat into the room properly. You can just run one long straight baseboard radiator (you can clip on as many as you need and a straight pipe allows for better breathing exhaust). So try it with baseboard radiators.
this is a great idea, i will try it out
thanks andy
@@andyfireblade look forward to it
What about using a house radiator ?
hello jason , i have done this with a house radiator as well.
please take a look in my vids
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
Be very careful how much pipe you use! Too many turns will cause airflow to reduce thru the heater. You will burn it out
Yes, you are right, the u bends really restrict the flow
heres the video Andy hope it helps you out without damaging your heater th-cam.com/video/hj8da4WQaac/w-d-xo.html
thank you i will look at it
Instructions say not to use more than 60cm one guy on TH-cam his heater sooted up
i think the bends create more of a problem that the length of the pipe.
cheers andy
26c on the pipe is not hot and wouldn't work as a radiator
hello my friend
sorry , i didnt show it well. but it went way higher than that.
90s. you couldnt touch it, hahah.
thanks for looking
regards andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
heat exchanger is not working properly. the exhaust is what is actually heating your house. the exhaust pipe should be cold or not more than mild.
thanks andy
you could try using a propane tank instead of extending the exhaust pipe@@andyfireblade
@@meex88hiphop really good idea, might try that. new video coming on.
cheers andy
even make channels and fill the tank with sand as thermal mass@@andyfireblade
When I was at college takings my motor vehicle degree, they told us never to put copper in an exhaust system. The chemical reaction between the copper and the chemical and gases can cause a deadly toxic mix to be emitted. Be careful. Datsun tried it in the 1960s and stopped for that reason.
thanks
Would running it through a steam heater coil work?
thats a good idea, cheers andy
So the exhaust gets that hot
really hot yeah!