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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- A little video I recorded after fitting a Tutoro chain oiler to the Honda CB500X.
MUSIC:
Title: "I Will Not Let You Let Me Down (Instrumental Version)"
Artist: Josh Woodward
URL: www.joshwoodwar...
Artist Site: www.joshwoodwar...
License: Creative Commons
![🎤 ไปกันต่อออ! จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.2] (1/2) เพลงของใครจึ้งสุดน้าา 💓🎤 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mLI_K0sAS4o/mqdefault.jpg)
O-ring chains only contain lubricant for the hinge pins - None for the rollers hence none for the sprockets. This is why regular oiling is necessary even for O-ring chains. You'll definitely get longer chain and sprocket life with an automatic oiler. But whatever make or type - they're temperemental. With Scottoilers you'll sometimes find air in the delivery tube and need to re-prime. I think on balance they are worth having.
I'm going to see how I get on with it and then decide whether or not to fit one to my other bike.
I have found it’s best to use them on a minimum setting if riding on dry roads as that’s all you need..
In wet conditions you can turn it up a couple of positions as the water on the road washes off any excess oil.
I've definitely had mine too high and I've turned it down a lot on Tutoro's recommendation (a quarter turn now).
The only oiler I considered was the Motobriiz from America. It has a felt pad on the swing arm that the chain runs over so no dripping or excess oil. It is actuated by a tube facing forward with differential pressure when you are moving forward.
I wonder if that's the one that keeps popping up on adverts to me. That has spongey pads and claims to be wind operated.
I use a "Loobman". It delivers a finite measure with each manual application of the pump. Your setup may malfunction and dump the whole tank full. Always wipe exvess oil from rim to prevent centrifugal run off onto your tyre. Whatever is on the sidrwall will find it's way onto your tread.
I bought a Loobman a long time ago and still have it in my garage. I was contemplating using it but the reservoir was too big for the position. I'm still thinking about putting it on the Z1000.
I have a scott oiler which does fling oil but I am still in the process of finding the ideal adjustment as there is quite a wide adjustment. I will, when I find the right setting, expect to have some oil flinging to ensure enough is getting to the chain. Cheers for the vid's.
I think that the Tutoro will be exactly the same. I've had one problem with it dumping the entire reservoir in 150 miles but it seems it's down to the adjustment. I need another similar ride on a new setting to test it. The company seems quick to respond to issues though so hopefully their advice will fix it, or they'll replace it if faulty.
Personally I don’t like chain oilers as I’ve seen them go wrong and cover the whole tyre in oil so I use the old fashion method of brushing on gear box oil every month or so. Hope you don’t encounter any problems with yours and Ride safe 👍
Must agree with this one sparky 10 minutes a month with a toothbrush and any gear oil, has done me good for 40 years !
Alwyn Farmer yes the old ways are the best 👍
I used to use that method with my XJ6. I'll see how I get on with the Tutoro but only time will tell if I keep it or not.
I've been using the same Tutoro oiler on 3 bikes over the last 6 years. It's the original with a single knob to control the on, off and flow rate. This was problematic because the amount the knob was turned was critical and after turning the flow off it was hit and miss as to where to position the knob to restore the correct flow. What I did was fit a stainless steel fish tank tap between the oil container and tap, in other words the flow knob could be left alone once set. The new auto on and off type model is better because unlike mine, oil doesn't leave a puddle on the floor when you forget to turn the tap off :-D.
As for your question about fling - Mine flings a few thin streaks onto the outside edge of the tyre which is easily wiped off with Isopropyl alcohol. I found Tutoro's oil a bit too thin, now I mix it 50/50 with EP80/90 gear oil which doesn't fling off as much. If you do this and ride your bike in cold weather you may have to increase the flow to allow for the thicker oil.
As for aerosol chain lubes, tried them all and found the chain plates rusted even though the bike's never ridden in the wet and garaged in winter.
Thanks for the feedback! I guess you are a fan of the Tutoro then!
I do have some gear oil that I bought a few years ago because Yamaha recommended it for the bike I had. I was thinking of using it as a back-up if I run out of the Tutoro oil. I may have to try that tip of mixing the two. Do they separate again?
Yes I'm a fan :-) Unless Tutoro have changed their oil over the last few years (green stuff) yes it mixes and I haven't noticed any separation.
Not sure if it's changed but it's definitely green! They have two versions, one for summer and one for winter (depending upon where you live).
I see no reason why ordinary 10/40 engine oil can't be used all year round. The only reason I use EP80/90 gear oil is because I had a couple of bottles spare. Before the Tutoro I used to clean the chain with paraffin and a brush, dry thoroughly, brush on EP80/90 and wipe as much off as possible. This method didn't fling at all. For winter storage I'd skip the wipe off for better rust protection.
85waspnest wouldn't engine oil be too thin? It's also potentially toxic to the environment.
My bike had a scottoiler on it when I got it, I took it off, it made a right mess on the lowest setting. It's easy enough to clean and lube the chain manually and it does not need doing that often really, I tend to do it when I clean the bike. I want to try out the dry lube, I must look in to it to see if it's still a good lube.
I previously used dry lube. The main issue was that I couldn't tell if it needed lubing or not!
I've had a vacuum operated Scottoiler on the bike for years and never experienced a problem. I get some fling on the nearside outer edge of the number plate, which is the side on which the chain is located, and obviously I have to clean the chain, the inside of the chain guard and the front sprocket occasionally, but I'd have to do that anyway. Otherwise, no issues and no rust on the chain.
Just out of interest, is it the single-sided feed or the double-sided one? I have both and I've fitted the double-one. I wonder if the design of it could lead to problems but I'm not sure if the single-sider will oil the whole lot.
Single outlet. I've often wondered what the advantage of a double outlet would be in practice, because with mine the rotation of the chain seems to ensure that oil reaches both sides. Maybe it would suit harsher conditions, such as in winter or the Sahara?
Len Scapoff I may try switching at some point. I assumed a more even coverage but if the tubes go out of alignment horizontally I can imagine it all going quite wrong indeed. My concern was about how well the oil would migrate from one sided to the other with the single sider. If it works well for you, it's worth a try for me!
The key is setting the right rate of flow, which is somewhat trial and error. I'm trying to remember the rate on mine (in terms of 1 drop per x seconds), but I honestly can't off the top of my head since it's been so long since I set it. Which, now that I think about it, rather speaks for itself. I will check this week, though, and let you know.
Len Scapoff Thanks :-)
Personally I've never used any time of chain oiler so can't help, hope your happy with it though bud, RS.
Still tweaking but it's good that after a good thousand miles the chain stays clean of crud.
The rollers are not sealed with o rings, just the bushings on an o ring chain. The chain has a roller around a bushing tube around a pin. Only the pin to bushing is sealed with an o ring I think.
That's right.
@@CalmBiker I used to think O ring chains meant all the bits were sealed; So I was surprised to discover they were not, and also that my enduro chain rollers were toast, despite only moderate chain elongation! Thanks for the interesting review.
@@timhampshire3930 It's a pain in a way because the bit that isn't sealed is the hardest to lubricate well. The chain oiler really helped from that point of view but I never got the chance to find out how long the chain would last because the bike got written off in an accident :-(
@@CalmBiker Oh No! Hope you survived OK !
@@timhampshire3930 A broken collar bone. Quite lucky really that it wasn't worse.
reminds me I need to clean and lube the chain on my Street Triple :-)
Haha! Sorry about that ;-)
:D
It would be no good me having one on my bike that work on vibration, the roads are so rough around hear it would be empty in 10 minutes.
As a matter of interest what oil do you use in them? Watching and listening to your video, I was thinking would a good quality chainsaw oil work.
The reason is a chain on a chainsaw goes a lot faster than a bike plus the oil is very sticky, your thoughts on that one. Rsm8.
Haha! It's supposed to be clever enough to deal with rough roads, though mine did empty on the way to Hunstanton the other day (adjustment definitely required!)
They have their own oil with different versions for hot and cold environments. It's pretty reasonably priced at £7 for 500ml, which should last for 10,000 miles or so. They do mention other suitable oils, such as EP80/90 gear oil. They specifically say no to chainsaw oil though; apparently there are additives that can damage O-rings and it's too sticky to flow, so your chain won't get cleaned. Apparently this stuff is more about stopping rust and cleaning the chain than lubrication because the lubrication trapped behind the O-rings is key. This keeps the O-rings clean and stops them drying out and cracking. However, I can't vouch for any of that until I've done another 20,000 miles or the chain fails before the 17K I got out of the OEM chain :-D
made some good points there mate.
do you still check your chain as regularly with an automated oiler rather than the old fashioned way where you'd check it while you're cleaning and re-oiling it?
:-)
Yes, I give it a quick tension check every week or so. More if the mileage is high.
My daily ride came with an oiler I keep set it to keep the chain moist. Hardly any fling. My Sunday bike I just do it manually. I wouldn't buy another in the future.
I've adjusted this one down a lot since recording this video, after it dumped the entire reservoir on a 150 mile ride. Still playing with it and need another decent ride to test it again. It's certainly tricky to get it right. The Z1000 is still getting the spray wax / spray lube treatment.
I have never had a oiler so now help on this one will be good to see if it any good let us now mate rsm
Will do. I'll probably do a review after a full winter with it.
Never used one and you will have to do a review on it In a month or so's time
It's on my list :-)
@@CalmBiker are you still using this or dod you ho back to just cleaning and oiling it? If you are still using it, how do you find it?
@@j4zzx297 Unfortunately I got knocked off and the bike and the oiler were written off. Up until then it was really good though. Enough that I've bought another one to fit to the Z1000.
Further to my last. I dont get oil on the main tread of the tyre.
Definitely don't want that!
Reminds me to buy a new oiler for my new KTM too, applying oil with a syringe can get real messy..
Been using Loobmans manual oilers for years on my bikes.
www.loobman.co.uk
Cheap and quite sufficient.
Just one push on the button when the chain appears to be dry.
Just before or while riding, not stationary... and I just use clean (used) engine oil.
One should make a habit of checking the chain before every ride though. :)
On average I apply oil once every 100 miles or so and get some splatter on the rim and wall of the tire.
No drama, just washing the bike at least once a month takes care of that.
Scottoiler: Na, cutting into the vacuum line is easy, finding the vacuum line is the problem. Anyway, last chain went for 30K miles, so they do work. I've bought Tutoro for the next bike for no other reason than it's getting harder to find the vacuum line.
I lost the Tutoro on this one when we got punted off and the bike written off. I've bought another for the Z1000 but not got it fitted yet. I really like them.
I've got one on both my bikes, I find they do the job pretty good and very simple which is why I like them.I did have the plastic reservoir crack due to either heat from exhaust or washing the bike (you're supposed to cover it) but you can replace if for fairly cheap. The manual oiler is the Loobman I'm guessing? I used one for a bit and it was okay too and you can pretty much use any oil you want.
I get a tiny amount of fling on my setup, never had the tyres slip on either bikes on chain side turns, not even in rain. The way I've set it up on my FZ1 is enough the chain looks oiled rather than fling, the rear sprocket has a ridge so when I park the bike up any remaining oil slowly pools to the bottom of it so I can roughly use that as a guide to see how much oil is going out and there's a good amount without getting any fling TBF.
Thanks for that last tip. I hadn't considered that. The new sprocket I fitted recently has a similar ridge.
I see you have a review in your videos. I will be watching that shortly!
Hows the chain oiler todate ?
It worked really well after a few adjustments and a discussion with the manufacturer. Turns out the manual I had, which said to turn the tap out by over a turn was wrong. Once on a quarter turn it worked perfectly. I got a few thousand miles out of the chain without any need to adjust or clean it. Unfortunately, the bike got written off and the oiler went with it. I'd definitely have another if I could work out a good way to attach it to the Z1000.
Sorry can't help Richard as I use chain wax in a spray can.
Me too on the Z1000. It's an interesting experiment either way. If it works well, the Kwak may get something similar.
I would stay away from chain oilers all your going to do is put a lot of oil on your bike tyer wall and on roads naaa not good 😞
I don't like them, my bike came with one and I took it off.
Time will tell!
I don't do enough miles per year to justify one really, the old fashioned way is good enough for me.
The main reason for getting one was after a mini-tour of 1,300 miles in five days and my Iron Butt attempt. If it works out, it'll be very handy for that type of riding. Allegedly the little tank is good for 1,000 miles and it has a little portable bottle that will fill it at least twice. A lot less space than a standard can of lube. Only time will tell if it works well enough though.
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Care to elaborate on your view on how to lubricate a chain effectively? Not trying to be 'funny' I'm not convinced by these things on an 'O' ring chain...interested on what you use...?
Tosh - I'm hopeful I've got it sorted after the other Sunday's problems :-)
Paul - Tosh uses a spray because he's had issues with Scottoilers. To be fair, these things are as much about cleaning the chain constantly as lubricating it, as the O-rings (or X-rings) should be holding the original lubrication grease in place. The oil supposedly helps stop the rubber from drying and cracking. Only time will tell. The OEM chain was good for about 17,000 miles using spray wax and cleaning with kerosine every thousand or two miles. I won't really know whether this works unless I get a failure before that :-D