A rule I've began using with these kinds of coolant systems it to have the hose from the coolant bottle to go directly to the pump, in a slope that allows air bubbles to rise directly up to the bottle as water is flowing down replacing the air at the pump. As long as the hose diameter is large enough, this way you don't need to have a separate bleeding line, bleeding valves, special bottles or anything, it just works.
Sorry for the recent lack of likes/comments. Have been travelling a lot and watching your videos on download. So many of these problems familiar! I had similar battery box/threaded bar issues. And bleeding (I'm on my fifth? sixth? cooling layout). Had forgotten you were using dedicated battery for your PAS. Still seems like an odd solution! Bur fair to you for pursuing it.
Ah mate. You never need to apologise as you've been a real inspiration for me. I suspect I'll be changing the coolant layout too but for now it's staying put. My PAS solution is bonkers, I freely admit that but if I can make it work it has some benefits and with a little work might even make sense. Sort of. 😂
Hi there, I've been following you with great interest. After some classic car conversions, I want to build a Freelander for myself (not for clients), and I'm wondering if you've thought about the ESP/Traction Control system. Do you think it will work? Are you planning to hack the ECU for this?
As far as I know ABS will be OK as it is a self contained system but I still have to check as I haven't tested the brakes yet. As for Hill descent and traction control I'm not too worried about them. If you go to my Landyzone thread about the build on page one is a breakdown of the CAN messages and HDC is in the list. www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-ev.360880/
A rule I've began using with these kinds of coolant systems it to have the hose from the coolant bottle to go directly to the pump, in a slope that allows air bubbles to rise directly up to the bottle as water is flowing down replacing the air at the pump. As long as the hose diameter is large enough, this way you don't need to have a separate bleeding line, bleeding valves, special bottles or anything, it just works.
It's my first time doing any of this so there are many things I'd do differently.
The plumbing is just one 😅
Sorry for the recent lack of likes/comments. Have been travelling a lot and watching your videos on download.
So many of these problems familiar! I had similar battery box/threaded bar issues. And bleeding (I'm on my fifth? sixth? cooling layout).
Had forgotten you were using dedicated battery for your PAS. Still seems like an odd solution! Bur fair to you for pursuing it.
Ah mate. You never need to apologise as you've been a real inspiration for me.
I suspect I'll be changing the coolant layout too but for now it's staying put.
My PAS solution is bonkers, I freely admit that but if I can make it work it has some benefits and with a little work might even make sense.
Sort of. 😂
Ali can you explain please how you implement the PWM with Arduino to control the water pump?
I explained it in a post in Openinverter. The pump is used by Nissan and Tesla I believe.
openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2906
@@alibro7512 Thank you.
Hi there, I've been following you with great interest. After some classic car conversions, I want to build a Freelander for myself (not for clients), and I'm wondering if you've thought about the ESP/Traction Control system. Do you think it will work? Are you planning to hack the ECU for this?
As far as I know ABS will be OK as it is a self contained system but I still have to check as I haven't tested the brakes yet. As for Hill descent and traction control I'm not too worried about them. If you go to my Landyzone thread about the build on page one is a breakdown of the CAN messages and HDC is in the list. www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-ev.360880/
@@alibro7512 Great!!! I will check. I want to start my Freelander conversion soon.