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Yes, I have 40 cells at the front of the car and 56 in the rear so that is why there is a small voltage drop between them. It's not large but enough to cause an issue with the BMS.

@@alibro7512 Do you sense the voltage right at the cell (with a separate wire from cell to BMS)? Looks like the sense wire is common with the thick wire for some length?

@@haand001 The sense wires are connected to each cell directly so yes a separate wire for each cell but you need to remember the positive of one cell is the neg of the next so any voltage drop no matter how small between them will be picked up by the BMS. As far as it is concerned they should all be in the one pack with short busbars. Tom DeBree warned me this would be an issue and he was right.

@@alibro7512 ok, I see know what you mean. Thinking about my own project with modules placed pretty much all over the car. Guess I’ll will see some cells “out of line” during charge/discharge. I better program the BMS to only evaluate balancing of cells when in rest. Thanks for this insight ;)

Thanks Frank. You're right about the disconnect which is why I connected a second contactor so that it would break the pack at cell 48/49 just like Nissan did. I ended up cutting out the explanation as I had already droned on long enough but the Leaf BMS is galvanically isolated at that point to protect it when the service disconnect is pulled. And I figure the wires folded over and soldered will be just as secure as a crimp and takes up a fraction of the space.

Sounds like you need a good mechanic to look at it.

The BMS might look similar but will probably be very different. However it might be worth trying Leafspy to see which cell is giving the problem.

Are you talking about towing an eGolf with something? Even if it were possible I'm not sure what the benefits would be. It would have to be fully road legal as a car for a start.

@@alibro7512 fully contained sleeping area with installed heat& A/C. Hatchback that can open up to a fabric tented seating area, drive system for assistance up mountain roads for a “tow neutral” load on tow vehicle, regenerative braking for mountain downhill “tow neutral” load on tow vehicle. Easy self-maneuvering once detached from tow vehicle for positioning at campsite, plug-in capable at campsite 240vac outlet…. The list is endless. Cover unused windows with aluminum sheathing and industrial adhesive

Sorry I don't understand your question.

I guess you could try 4 as it's a multiple of 100.

4,8 and 12 is the number of magnets setting for PAS sensor, pedal magnets. The 0-100, (100) you measured is the speed measuring magnet of the motor. They are two separate settings.

I guess so. I did this a while ago and have sold the car since so I can't confirm.

Why?

@@alibro7512 i am looking to buy a laptop

Oh well damn, I finally tried it and my motor did not resist.

Sorry I don't know. Sounds like the kind of question for an eBike forum.

In the EV conversion world they are known as Screamers for a reason but this one was faulty. The Volvo pump I'm using now is nice and quiet.

I'm not certain which parameter will sort this for you ensure you take a copy of the current settings before changing anything. And keep track of the changes as you go.

If it's easy to disconnect the controller then do. If not just make sure the battery is disconnected for safety reasons. Not electric shock so much as losing a finger

​@@alibro7512with everything disconnected. I held 2 phase wires together and counted. Is that a correct way of counting the magnets ?

@@anio6865 Yes so long as they are the phase wires from the motor. Think of what happens during regen. As the wheel spins the motor generates power and puts it back into the battery but it also slows you down. You can feel the resistance as this happens. Shorting the motor coils does a similar thing.

The three phase wires carry the ac current from the controller to the motor to drive the motor. The HALL sensor wires tell the controller the position of the motor. You need them all connected for it to work.

​​@@alibro7512i have a Sparta ion rx plus that i want to convert to a KT-controller, but i only have 3 phase wires coming out of the motor. It's a direct-drive motor with 24 magnets. I am told. Regards

@@user-2uf2kr2c There are sine wave controllers that will work without hall sensors but I believe in that situation they revert to being square wave. I don't know of a sine wave controller that will work as sine wave without hall sensors.

@@alibro7512 so sinewave controllers need hall sensors to work as sonewave? Is that what you're saying? Regards

@@user-2uf2kr2c As far as I am aware yes.

Sorry I'm not sure what a pass sensor is. It's been a couple of years since I looked at this.

@@alibro7512 pedal assist. it's put on the crank. Regards

@@user-2uf2kr2c LOL, that's PAS then, not pass. 🤣Like I said, it's been a while since I looked at this stuff. I still don't understand what you are asking as PAS and HALL are not related. KT controllers need HALL sensors to see the position of the motor magnets in relation to the coils. PAS is telling the controller what you are doing with the pedals but you don't need PAS for it to work.

@@alibro7512 i have a Sparta(Dutch) ebike with only 3 phase wires on the motor wheel. So no hall. I want to connect a KT-controller square wave controller to it. Also with a pas sensor. Regards

If you don't have hall sensors I don't see the point of paying extra for a KT controller that probably won't work. Buy a cheap Chinese controller from ebay or aliexpress and it should do the job.

Sorry no idea

IT depends on the controller. My KT would not work without hall sensors but another controller did.

I don't think the motor manufacturers ever use odd number of magnets. I could be wrong but from what I've heard there are common numbers and 46 is one of them.

@@alibro7512 I believe, at least in the SW900 screens menu's you change the magnet number 1 at a time. I've got to do mine later as i've just had to install and setup a new controller and I only get 000's on the display apart from the wattage so I need to find out how many magnets my motor hub has too as I never set this ebike of mine up in the 1st place.

@@geepeerces I can't remember what resistance I ended up using but maybe a couple K. Anyway it worked with no issue.

5120 what's but for a very short period. Our general knowledge for that kind of stuff doesn't tend to hold for short pulses of power. Like yes it's a wild amount of power for a brief moment so you probably could get away with a much smaller power resistor than 5kw. Could probably get away with 1kw or even less.

@@neverendinghobbies The capacitor inside the contactor module is not big so any 1/4W resistor is fine with it.

Thank you my friend, I really appreciate your kind words. I've have pinned this comment so everybody can see how nice a person you are.

Thanks for your comment. While this is true there are other reasons for disconnecting it after the main positive contactor closes. If you watch my newer video's you'll see that I had an issue (self inflicted) that caused the precharge resistor to go bang.

No, these come with a manual explaining how to set them up.

If I were using the bms correctly the thickness would matter but it turns out I can only turn the bms on when off load. In other words when not driving. This is because of the resistance between cells 40 and 41. When driving cell 40 shows wildly out of balance because of the voltage drop between the packs. When unloaded it is fine.

@@alibro7512 thanks for the answer. I have to admit I don’t fully get what you’re saying ( sure that’s my lack of understand rather than your explanation) so maybe I have a bit more binge watching to do before I get up to speed with the end of your journey.

I should explain, I’m at the first step of a conversion (Resolve-EV VCU with full leaf motor), so still in absorbing mode in terms of what questions to ask, and then what the answers mean when I get them. I do intend to split my battery modules front and rear, hence my original question.

@@ianlighting100 If you can split them 50/50 then do it although it won't be perfect it will help and make life easier. . TBH I'm not sure how others handle split packs. Good luck with your build.

​@@ianlighting100 I tried to answer this but Pootube lost it. A bms has the positive of every cell connected to the neg of the next, so the voltage shown for each cell is in relation to the previous one. That is OK when the resistance between each cell is the same but if some idiot puts 5m of cable between two cells it will have a resistance, even if it is 50mm2. There will be a few mV voltage drop which skews the reading for that cell.

You're braver than me as my next plan is to sell the car. 🥲 It has almost 150k miles and I fear the auto gearbox will need attention soon. It has already been serviced with new fluids a couple of years ago but I think the sensors may be on their last legs. I love the car but it's not worth spending that kind of money on.

You're right so I'll figure out a way to incorporate a fuse. I guess it''s like anything, If I were to do it all again I'd do many things differently. Maybe next time. 😋

@@alibro7512 The reason I did the fuse thing was because I could not afford to fry my resistor..... Stuff is just unbelievably expensive out here that I could not risk it. Those high power fuses out here cost a couple of hundred bucks in my money, and, not every shop carries stock or even the correct values, so I did that out of necessity........ I envy you being where you are with access to what you have, hence, why I can only look and comment from my armchair position..... Plus.... I've heard people say hindsight is always 20/20....... But, if it were easy, then, everyone would be doing what you are doing...... And therein lies the difference....

I think the main problem was, even though the fuse blew the car still operated normally. Until it didn't. The timer module was still operating normally and (glitching normally unfortunately) . A fuse on the resistor would have saved it and caused the car to cut out but without any harm to anything except the fuse. I've also put a 1500µF cap across it which seems to have cured the glitching and waiting for a delivery off 100nF ceramics to do add to it to be sure.

Yes, the 1500mfd will most certainly help smooth out the supply but will also act as a resivour/ buffer, the ceramic will deal with any pulses or rf switching type noise... Very good call....

Sorry I hadn't properly understood your suggestion when I first read it. Yes that sounds sensible so I'll do that.

This app hasn't been updated for a few years but if you watch my other video about PC software I believe it is still available.

Thanks mate, Not sure it was a great idea but it worked, if a little cock eyed. 😋

@@alibro7512 such is life. Amor Fati.

The cable has a USB to serial adapter built in so yes you need it. Note this only works on older models. I'm not sure when the change happened.

@@alibro7512 ok thx

@@alibro7512 Another thing, my bike has the output to connect the Bafang cable but it's a momodesign electric bike, does it work the same or does it necessarily have to be Bafang, thanks?

It's the controller that matters. Is it bbs01 /2 or 3 and more than three years (ish, I'm not certain) old.

If I could write the program for the Mega then probably, however my idea of programming an Arduino is to plagiarise the work of others and comment stuff out until it stops working then do the reverse. I already had the Due and already had the sketch to run on it so for me it was a no brainer. Some day I might even copy all the code from the three Arduinos onto a single Due but that is a job for future Alibro.

Yeah, I hear you, I am just playing devils advocate though, I am thinking of all the systems you have though, heating, timing control for those contactors etc. it should also save you some space as you could put the mega inside the current housing under the fuse blocks saving you another housing. Good cleanup so far..... It's always the little things that take the most time...

@@GapRecordingsNamibia I'm fully aware that my setup is.......ahem, sub optimal but we run what we brung and in this case I didn't bring a brain capable of coding. 😒

@@alibro7512 🤣😂 I hear you..... But, still think you will kick my butt when it comes to coding....

@@GapRecordingsNamibia 🤔 Sorry mate I suspect you are wrong, my coding skills have always been terrible even back in the day when I was tapping away at my Commodore VIC20 I was hopeless and haven't improved any since. My idea of writing code is to copy the work of others and make changes one bit at a time to see what happens.

Thanks, it was a long job. Yes I can send 5V directly to the Arduino Uno and probably the Due but I wasn't sure about the Due as it is a 3.3V device with a 5V rail. I decided to use a DC buck converter instead.

As far as I can tell any of the cheapest nastiest ebike controllers from ebay or amazon will work. The slightly better Sine wave controllers probably will not unless they are sold as being able to work "without hall effect sensors"

Only if your Bafang is the older model made before 2021 or 22. If so then yes it will work in 2024 or 2025 or 2026. 😉

@@alibro7512 so theres a no chance to flash motor firmware made after 2022?

@@MarekZpe3n As far as I know it won't work but I could be wrong. The cable is cheap and the software is free so try it and report back.

@@alibro7512 Okey. I have last question, i find that you can play with those “unlocked” features, if you use eggrider display. Is that correct? Even with newer made motors? Thank you for your answer.

@@MarekZpe3n Sorry, it's been a long time since I looked at this so I don't know.

Sorry I'm not sure what you are asking?

All CAN networks need to have two 120 ohm resistors, one at either end. If you are connecting to an existing working network it will already have them so you don't need any.

@@alibro7512 it seems my problem is the OBD II port, after going through all your videos and reading the comments I saw you mentioned using another library, I wonder if I can get Any instructions from you? I feel very grateful for that!

@@nhutdominh7624 Sorry I made this video 3 years ago and haven't looked at it the OBDII connection again since. My EV project is connected directly to the CAN wires in the loom.

If it is not compatible it won't connect so no harm in trying.

@@alibro7512 Thank you for your answer :) I will try it tomorrow.