After watching other TH-camrs explain how to configure autofocus (their way), I find yours makes most sense (although I am using Zf which doesn't have same function buttons as other Zees). Would suggest you start with "Let me show you 3 different modes to use autofocus: 1 is 3D tracking, 2 is Auto area AF, 3 is single point AF or the old back button focus and recompose." And explain the purpose (scenario) for using each mode. For me, returning to Nikon (F series from F to F3) after a decade of Fujifilm (upgrading from XE1, through XT1, XH1, XPro3, Xt4, finally XT5) your video really helps me find my way to finally enjoy the film retro aspects of the Zf with the latest modern features of mirrorless. Thank you.
Unfortunately, I cannot program the 3 modes on the limited Zf function keys. But at least now I know how to set those 3 modes (I will use the iMenu to change the settings as needed).
Would love to see a full settings video like this for Z6iii and hybrid shooters using those same User 1,2,3 that you already programmed to get the best auto focus from this camera!!! Really enjoy your content.
This is a very helpful video. I used to shoot Nikon, but moved to Sony for better AF. I've got to say I do think Sony AF is easier to use, but I'm glad Nikon has now got competitive AF.
Definitely! I do find the Sony AF to work a better out of the box and the newer Sony AI tracking is still better than Nikon 3D… but it’s honestly very close. Glad they’re all pushing each other to be better so we all win!
@@kylemeshna to be honest I'm not a technically quick thinker, I work in the leisure and hospitality sectors. I very often get thrown curved balls when content creating. Nikon is still to slow a system for, I just need to shoot fast, often switching from video to photo. I thought I'd take a hit on the AWB and Auto ISO, because I thought Nikon was good at that, but my A7R5 is fantastic at auto work. If I ever move from Sony it'll be because another manufacturer has matched ease of use, plus added killer stabilisation
Thanks for the video. I hope Nikon will also add "Thickness of AF point" and "Switch Focus Mode" functions to Zf camera. I saw it on the Z8 only. Also I have set "L-Fn" as "Switch Eyes" function.
Great video, I've been using the Z6ii cameras for years and got a z6iii recently. It's nice to see how others set things up. Gives me some ideas to tweak things to work even smoother/better. Cheers! 🍻
Thank you so much for making this video and sharing your settings. I recently switched from the Z6II to the Z6III And I've gotten so used to the settings on my old camera, that I had a bit of a hard time getting used to the new system. I was really looking for a good way to make the best use of the new autofocus system of the Z6III. And this basically covers all of my questions! 👍👊
I am big AF-On focus only user but with the Z9, focus is so good that I went back to shutter focus (Auto AF, Full with eye-detec is so good it always finds the eye) and then AF-On set to 3D-Tracking. So if I need a single point target I just point to the subject and press AF-On and I got that point/subject locked in and tracking. Nikon needs to add option to de-couple eye-AF detect from the 3D tracking on the Z6III and it's all good...this video so far is the best I've seen as work-around, just don't like pressing F1 and moving the focus point with my thumb..great video by the way!
Some area like Display are hard to follow on a Z9 and I never found that setting as described. I found I was using his primary settings but on different buttons. Since I have S lens, they have buttons that can be programmed to focus. I really like that to be the primary button I start with on focus and then hand it off to af-on
This was *just* what I was looking for to crack the menu phobia of my brand new little baby z63. Long tine Nikon guy returning from a brief 10 year Lumix dalliance. *New sub btw
Without wishing to start any kind of beef, may I ask this...I had a Nikon D90 from 2009-2015. I now use a Canon EOS 5D Mk4. Despite the higher resolution and full frame goodness, when I look back at the old files from the D90, there's a beautiful certain something to them that I can't put my finger on, but it's got me thinking thoughts. Any ideas?
I highly recommend checking out Steve Perry's setup guides for any Nikon camera, DSLR or Mirrorless, you can find them on TH-cam and he also has an ebook on the Nikon Autofocus system. His setups are far more in depth and better thoughout.
Hey there, i just traded my Zf in for the Z6iii for the better ergonomics. But… though i am not a big video guy, i just need an all a rounder camera for wildlife (flying, running, and stills) and for mostly landscape. I am not a professional, but i like good quality images so i can print and post on social media. Will this Z6iii (even though so many people say DR is bad) would it be good for a wildlife, nature, landscape camera? I don’t have a big budget, just want a camera that is great for what i do. I think most of my photos have more landscapes than anything else, so knowing the tracking is good, for that rarity bird in flight will be great. Thanks again for the video, very helpful.
Good video. First time I've watched one of yours. Not sure I'll do all you suggest, especially the front FN buttons as I'm just not used to using. But here's my question: Why U1 and U2? Why isn't basic 'M' one of those and U1 the other? I've long done this on my D7500 - M w/ Auto-ISO, SS 640 (since we have an 18-300 zoom on it), and F8, AF-C. My uses that as a point-and-shoot with great success. I'm U1 and have the tweaks I want.
I have a Z8 and Z9 for wildlife and general photography in use.When using the Sony a9iii of my wife , I realised lately how bad the AF on the Nikon cameras really is!
The video is great and helpful, I have a question when you record video and use an external monitor, do you get a 3-5 seconds disconnection of the external monitor signal after stopping the recording
@@kylemeshna I have 3 monitors Viltrox. PortKeys and freewel and it's the same with all of them, I've tried different cables and it's very inconvenient
I am slightly frustrated by this setup as it does not do exactly what I expect. I've found that the 3d tracking doesn't track outside the wide box selected. I had hoped it would follow around the entire frame. Did I miss something?
Thanbks for the video, it gave me an idea of how to tweak my own setup which is very similar to yours already. However, I'm curious about what`you said about setting AF-ON button to choose focus mode [3D]AF-ON which you say takes the current focus area into account. So if the custom W-C1 area is active before hitting AF-ON ( set to [3D]AF-ON ) it will only choose subjects that are in the previously displayed W-C1 area? Really? I was under the impression that 3D tracking will track subjects you have selected with the small centered [+] box and if you also have subject/eye detect enabled it will also find and focus on the eye, but I'm not convinced it will take the previous focus area into account. I guess we could inbtentionally configure a very small W-C1 area to test this and see if it still picks a subjects eyes that are in the outer part of the frame. I'm guessing it will, but it would be interesting if it didn't which could indicate you could be right. Personally I also have 3 different focus modes set up: W-C1 (horizontal) is the devault W-C1 (vertical) and [3D]AF-ON which I have set up for use in that order. I maibnly use the first two and don't rely on [3D] tracking, but if I do then I need to know it will work the way I expect it to. I think I best investigate this to make sure.
@@papsyTomi ya when you have 3d tracking enabled that doesn’t appear to be an option. Not huge deal I move the cam or box to the side am trying to focus on but it is odd that 3d tracking doesn’t allow you to switch
@@88omarz I see, yup you're right I think if it's set to 3d tracking, I find that it's just fixed in one focus point. Sorry, I thought you were talking about the wide or small focus areas with people detection which focuses on the eyes, which can select eyes on frame by using the directional buttons. My bad.
I am confused though. If I want to shoot in A mode for example, what are my settings? Are they the last user setting I used and then I can use my shooting mode A or S or M?
Hello Sir. Please if it is possible can you make a full review of the Nikon FTZ Mark II adapter, on TH-cam no one has a real informative review of this product. it will be interesting to see how F-mount lenses from any brand can perform on a Nikon Z mount Camera, how accurate the autofocus is how fast is it, and so on. I think it will be interesting for a lot of people because right now a lot of people are considering buying a Nikon mirrorless camera but Nikon does not offer affordable Z-mount lenses and also there are no real good alternative lenses from other brands like Sigma or Tamron. for example, you can find a lot of perfect lenses for Sony E mount like the latest Sigma24-70mm f/2.8 mark II lens. to make a long story short You know better than me that you can find a lot of good half-price lenses for E mount but not for R mount or Z mount and there are a lot of people including myself want to know if we can buy Nikon Mirrorless camera and adapt F mount lenses without any problem with FTZ adapter and be happy.
Nikon does make affordable Z mount lenses, some of which are made by Tamron. With regard the FTZ the only difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 is the loss of the tripod mount. AF performance will vary between F mount lenses, primes and fast aperture zooms will perform well, some cheaper zooms less so. Accuracy is no different, acquisition times and tracking will be effected based on the above text. If you are more specific about which F mount glass works well on the FTZ then YT likely already has a video, many people continue to use adapted lenses without issue.
At this stage of the game using custom boxes to improve focus is just a patch. You shouldn't need to do that. Nikon should have it figured out (like Sony and Canon). The 3D tracking should be good enough to find eyes accurately (which the Z6iii) doesn't always do. It should also be sticky enough, which it isn't . Hoping in future firmware updates Nikon will fix these issues.
Hey! I am sculptor , and I record on the table with z6ii mounted on the firm tripod. Auto focus has been a huge problem, to the point where I am thinking to sell the camera . CF-F is struggling, there is plenty of light ,so that can't be the problem. Any tips for recording video while hands go in front of the subject pretty often? Going nuts here, I invested in this camera, and it's not performing... thanks!
From the sounds of it, you want your “thing” that you’re sculpting to be in focus at all time rather than your hand. Does that thing move much? If not you could use something like f/8 aperture and use manual focus once the object is set. Or perhaps there’s a better angle you can use where your hands done pass in front of the camera as much (top down perhaps). Whenever I’m doing things like unboxing videos I usually do a top down angle with manual focus set to the middle of the box
Your tutorial is very informative BUT I have a problem. Regardless of the settings the focus box drifts to the bottom of the viewfinder in almost every tracking mode. I can fix it in place by using focus lock but then you keep getting an annoying message "focus lock on" How can you stop the drift without focus lock or how can you get rid of the annoying message. I photograph birds in flight and it slows you down if you have to keep correcting the focus position.
@@kylemeshna When I researched the wandering focus box it is a common complaint. It does not matter whether it is a single point or a wide box if you face your camera towards the ground the focus box drops in the screen and viewfinder. It never seems to go up. As I said you can lock it so it does not do it but then you have another problem.
Nikon Canon and Sony need to give the customer a much better way of sharing the files from their expensive cameras. It's too convoluted and slow right now. All the cameras are heavy, big , expensive and still need to muck around with cards cables and adapters and wast time they can't shift files as quick as I phone can. We just get constant gimmicks on the new cameras Eg pixel shift , 60 Mp, global shutters , 100mp , 1000 focus points, 300 FPS electronic shutters ect . The iPhone I can air drop email text all my files instantly . These expensive electronic devices running into tens of thousands when you have a two bodies and a set of lens can't moves files as easily as an iPhone is so stupid and dumb . A modern mirrorless camera should be able to Air drop to a lap top or phone instantly like a mobile phone can as this tech has been in phones for years .
I’d love that. Leica is currently the best at transferring wirelessly to their app from my experience, but would still prefer it to be easier and for everyone else to follow suit
Still looking at a TV set when composing?? I don't get this 'fashion' guys... there's a view finder for that.. this will stabilise the camera onto your body as well. Anyway good job on the rest of the video, but I truly don't get this 'fashion' of using the camera like a mobile phone...
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA Finals D1 | Fall | ยิงต้องโหด ให้เหมือนโกรธกันมาก่อน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OnTdfGySmds/mqdefault.jpg)
After watching other TH-camrs explain how to configure autofocus (their way), I find yours makes most sense (although I am using Zf which doesn't have same function buttons as other Zees). Would suggest you start with "Let me show you 3 different modes to use autofocus: 1 is 3D tracking, 2 is Auto area AF, 3 is single point AF or the old back button focus and recompose." And explain the purpose (scenario) for using each mode. For me, returning to Nikon (F series from F to F3) after a decade of Fujifilm (upgrading from XE1, through XT1, XH1, XPro3, Xt4, finally XT5) your video really helps me find my way to finally enjoy the film retro aspects of the Zf with the latest modern features of mirrorless. Thank you.
Unfortunately, I cannot program the 3 modes on the limited Zf function keys. But at least now I know how to set those 3 modes (I will use the iMenu to change the settings as needed).
Would love to see a full settings video like this for Z6iii and hybrid shooters using those same User 1,2,3 that you already programmed to get the best auto focus from this camera!!! Really enjoy your content.
This is a very helpful video. I used to shoot Nikon, but moved to Sony for better AF. I've got to say I do think Sony AF is easier to use, but I'm glad Nikon has now got competitive AF.
Definitely! I do find the Sony AF to work a better out of the box and the newer Sony AI tracking is still better than Nikon 3D… but it’s honestly very close. Glad they’re all pushing each other to be better so we all win!
@@kylemeshna to be honest I'm not a technically quick thinker, I work in the leisure and hospitality sectors. I very often get thrown curved balls when content creating. Nikon is still to slow a system for, I just need to shoot fast, often switching from video to photo. I thought I'd take a hit on the AWB and Auto ISO, because I thought Nikon was good at that, but my A7R5 is fantastic at auto work. If I ever move from Sony it'll be because another manufacturer has matched ease of use, plus added killer stabilisation
Would love to see a full settings video for the Z8 for those who switch between photo and video
I can work on something like that!
@@kylemeshna thanks a lot!
this video was actually pretty good. thank you
Happy to help!
It reminds me of 3D focus tracking of Nikon D series cameras which creates absolute sharpness.
Thanks for the video.
I hope Nikon will also add "Thickness of AF point" and "Switch Focus Mode" functions to Zf camera. I saw it on the Z8 only.
Also I have set "L-Fn" as "Switch Eyes" function.
Switch eyes is super useful! And you can switch subjects in video mode as well
Great video, I've been using the Z6ii cameras for years and got a z6iii recently. It's nice to see how others set things up. Gives me some ideas to tweak things to work even smoother/better. Cheers! 🍻
Happy to help!
Well done sir. Thanks for sharing this info..
Thank you so much for making this video and sharing your settings.
I recently switched from the Z6II to the Z6III And I've gotten so used to the settings on my old camera, that I had a bit of a hard time getting used to the new system.
I was really looking for a good way to make the best use of the new autofocus system of the Z6III.
And this basically covers all of my questions!
👍👊
I am big AF-On focus only user but with the Z9, focus is so good that I went back to shutter focus (Auto AF, Full with eye-detec is so good it always finds the eye) and then AF-On set to 3D-Tracking. So if I need a single point target I just point to the subject and press AF-On and I got that point/subject locked in and tracking. Nikon needs to add option to de-couple eye-AF detect from the 3D tracking on the Z6III and it's all good...this video so far is the best I've seen as work-around, just don't like pressing F1 and moving the focus point with my thumb..great video by the way!
Great video - answers all the questions I had on this clearly - many thanks
Happy to help
Very informative video, thankyou., subscribed
Happy to help
Some area like Display are hard to follow on a Z9 and I never found that setting as described. I found I was using his primary settings but on different buttons. Since I have S lens, they have buttons that can be programmed to focus. I really like that to be the primary button I start with on focus and then hand it off to af-on
This was *just* what I was looking for to crack the menu phobia of my brand new little baby z63. Long tine Nikon guy returning from a brief 10 year Lumix dalliance. *New sub btw
Excellent. Way to go TH-cam overlords! Helping people find what they need. And welcome aboard!
Hey Kyle, very good explanation ... and now finally a perfect adjustet camera ... thank you 👍🏻👍🏻
My pleasure!
Very useful !
yeahhh as PHD user appreciate your video love it!!!!!!!!!!
I have a iMac which was built in 2020 3.6 GHz 10-Core intel Core i9 with 128 GB 2133MHz DDR4 memory, but what you said this might need upgrading.
Without wishing to start any kind of beef, may I ask this...I had a Nikon D90 from 2009-2015. I now use a Canon EOS 5D Mk4. Despite the higher resolution and full frame goodness, when I look back at the old files from the D90, there's a beautiful certain something to them that I can't put my finger on, but it's got me thinking thoughts. Any ideas?
Is it the Nikon color algorithm? Nikon's make beautiful skin tones
I highly recommend checking out Steve Perry's setup guides for any Nikon camera, DSLR or Mirrorless, you can find them on TH-cam and he also has an ebook on the Nikon Autofocus system. His setups are far more in depth and better thoughout.
Hey there, i just traded my Zf in for the Z6iii for the better ergonomics. But… though i am not a big video guy, i just need an all a rounder camera for wildlife (flying, running, and stills) and for mostly landscape. I am not a professional, but i like good quality images so i can print and post on social media. Will this Z6iii (even though so many people say DR is bad) would it be good for a wildlife, nature, landscape camera? I don’t have a big budget, just want a camera that is great for what i do.
I think most of my photos have more landscapes than anything else, so knowing the tracking is good, for that rarity bird in flight will be great. Thanks again for the video, very helpful.
Z6iii sounds like a great option for you, yes
Hi Kyle, thank you for the great video!!!! I love the u2 for my husband actually to take a photo of me ;) its always a struggle with my husband - haha
Good video. First time I've watched one of yours. Not sure I'll do all you suggest, especially the front FN buttons as I'm just not used to using. But here's my question: Why U1 and U2? Why isn't basic 'M' one of those and U1 the other? I've long done this on my D7500 - M w/ Auto-ISO, SS 640 (since we have an 18-300 zoom on it), and F8, AF-C. My uses that as a point-and-shoot with great success. I'm U1 and have the tweaks I want.
I have a Z8 and Z9 for wildlife and general photography in use.When using the Sony a9iii of my wife , I realised lately how bad the AF on the Nikon cameras really is!
Flexible Color Picture Control on the Zf!!!! Come on Nikon!
Thank you!
After following these settings, I no longer get a focus screen on my live view. I only get the I menu. Any ideas to correct.
The video is great and helpful, I have a question when you record video and use an external monitor, do you get a 3-5 seconds disconnection of the external monitor signal after stopping the recording
I have not had that issue, no. Which monitor are you using?
@@kylemeshna I have 3 monitors Viltrox. PortKeys and freewel and it's the same with all of them, I've tried different cables and it's very inconvenient
🔥🔥🔥
I am slightly frustrated by this setup as it does not do exactly what I expect. I've found that the 3d tracking doesn't track outside the wide box selected. I had hoped it would follow around the entire frame. Did I miss something?
Thanbks for the video, it gave me an idea of how to tweak my own setup which is very similar to yours already. However, I'm curious about what`you said about setting AF-ON button to choose focus mode [3D]AF-ON which you say takes the current focus area into account.
So if the custom W-C1 area is active before hitting AF-ON ( set to [3D]AF-ON ) it will only choose subjects that are in the previously displayed W-C1 area? Really?
I was under the impression that 3D tracking will track subjects you have selected with the small centered [+] box and if you also have subject/eye detect enabled it will also find and focus on the eye, but I'm not convinced it will take the previous focus area into account. I guess we could inbtentionally configure a very small W-C1 area to test this and see if it still picks a subjects eyes that are in the outer part of the frame. I'm guessing it will, but it would be interesting if it didn't which could indicate you could be right.
Personally I also have 3 different focus modes set up: W-C1 (horizontal) is the devault W-C1 (vertical) and [3D]AF-ON which I have set up for use in that order. I maibnly use the first two and don't rely on [3D] tracking, but if I do then I need to know it will work the way I expect it to. I think I best investigate this to make sure.
How do I switch between eyes when having these set to when using people detection
In my Zf, I found that, just using the left and right directional button to choose which eye to focus. Hope that helps.
@@papsyTomi ya when you have 3d tracking enabled that doesn’t appear to be an option. Not huge deal I move the cam or box to the side am trying to focus on but it is odd that 3d tracking doesn’t allow you to switch
@@88omarz I see, yup you're right I think if it's set to 3d tracking, I find that it's just fixed in one focus point. Sorry, I thought you were talking about the wide or small focus areas with people detection which focuses on the eyes, which can select eyes on frame by using the directional buttons. My bad.
@@papsyTomi all good appreciate the assist still
I am confused though. If I want to shoot in A mode for example, what are my settings? Are they the last user setting I used and then I can use my shooting mode A or S or M?
Nice setup and suggestion. But how do you set up for BBAF?
I walk through this at the beginning of the video
Not mad at the no hat look!
thanks. this cleared up a bunch of things.
Hello Sir. Please if it is possible can you make a full review of the Nikon FTZ Mark II adapter, on TH-cam no one has a real informative review of this product. it will be interesting to see how F-mount lenses from any brand can perform on a Nikon Z mount Camera, how accurate the autofocus is how fast is it, and so on. I think it will be interesting for a lot of people because right now a lot of people are considering buying a Nikon mirrorless camera but Nikon does not offer affordable Z-mount lenses and also there are no real good alternative lenses from other brands like Sigma or Tamron. for example, you can find a lot of perfect lenses for Sony E mount like the latest Sigma24-70mm f/2.8 mark II lens. to make a long story short You know better than me that you can find a lot of good half-price lenses for E mount but not for R mount or Z mount and there are a lot of people including myself want to know if we can buy Nikon Mirrorless camera and adapt F mount lenses without any problem with FTZ adapter and be happy.
Nikon does make affordable Z mount lenses, some of which are made by Tamron. With regard the FTZ the only difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 is the loss of the tripod mount. AF performance will vary between F mount lenses, primes and fast aperture zooms will perform well, some cheaper zooms less so. Accuracy is no different, acquisition times and tracking will be effected based on the above text. If you are more specific about which F mount glass works well on the FTZ then YT likely already has a video, many people continue to use adapted lenses without issue.
@@jamesgrove thanks a lot for respond
Are these global? or just what mode you are on? I set on auto the way you said but on manual it acts different?
At this stage of the game using custom boxes to improve focus is just a patch. You shouldn't need to do that. Nikon should have it figured out (like Sony and Canon). The 3D tracking should be good enough to find eyes accurately (which the Z6iii) doesn't always do. It should also be sticky enough, which it isn't . Hoping in future firmware updates Nikon will fix these issues.
Hey! I am sculptor , and I record on the table with z6ii mounted on the firm tripod. Auto focus has been a huge problem, to the point where I am thinking to sell the camera . CF-F is struggling, there is plenty of light ,so that can't be the problem. Any tips for recording video while hands go in front of the subject pretty often? Going nuts here, I invested in this camera, and it's not performing... thanks!
From the sounds of it, you want your “thing” that you’re sculpting to be in focus at all time rather than your hand. Does that thing move much? If not you could use something like f/8 aperture and use manual focus once the object is set. Or perhaps there’s a better angle you can use where your hands done pass in front of the camera as much (top down perhaps). Whenever I’m doing things like unboxing videos I usually do a top down angle with manual focus set to the middle of the box
Your tutorial is very informative BUT I have a problem. Regardless of the settings the focus box drifts to the bottom of the viewfinder in almost every tracking mode. I can fix it in place by using focus lock but then you keep getting an annoying message "focus lock on" How can you stop the drift without focus lock or how can you get rid of the annoying message. I photograph birds in flight and it slows you down if you have to keep correcting the focus position.
Not sure why you have that issue. I’ve never experienced that
@@kylemeshna When I researched the wandering focus box it is a common complaint. It does not matter whether it is a single point or a wide box if you face your camera towards the ground the focus box drops in the screen and viewfinder. It never seems to go up. As I said you can lock it so it does not do it but then you have another problem.
when im in the saved user profile (i.e. u1/2/3) will the aperture, shutter speed settings etc be auto? or will it be manual?
Manual as long as you’re set to manual to start
@@kylemeshna oh i see! so if i saved the profile while in aperture priority mode, it will save the profile with aperture priority?
@loleeloleelol correct
@@kylemeshna thanks kyle!
😊
Nikon Canon and Sony need to give the customer a much better way of sharing the files from their expensive cameras. It's too convoluted and slow right now. All the cameras are heavy, big , expensive and still need to muck around with cards cables and adapters and wast time they can't shift files as quick as I phone can. We just get constant gimmicks on the new cameras Eg pixel shift , 60 Mp, global shutters , 100mp , 1000 focus points, 300 FPS electronic shutters ect . The iPhone I can air drop email text all my files instantly . These expensive electronic devices running into tens of thousands when you have a two bodies and a set of lens can't moves files as easily as an iPhone is so stupid and dumb . A modern mirrorless camera should be able to Air drop to a lap top or phone instantly like a mobile phone can as this tech has been in phones for years .
I’d love that. Leica is currently the best at transferring wirelessly to their app from my experience, but would still prefer it to be easier and for everyone else to follow suit
Still looking at a TV set when composing?? I don't get this 'fashion' guys... there's a view finder for that.. this will stabilise the camera onto your body as well. Anyway good job on the rest of the video, but I truly don't get this 'fashion' of using the camera like a mobile phone...