“But remember, I’m just some dude......” Doug, I appreciate you being humble, but we all are impressed with what some dude can do in their basement and garage. Best of luck and keep sharing all that you have the time and energy to do. Awesome work!
Great work and engineering. I'll do this to my buggy. One procedure I will change is before spot welding the caliper bracket to the spindle, Put the pads in the caliper and slip it in place over the rotor. Attach a regulated air line to the brake line port. induce to 10 psi air into caliper and if it's set in place correctly spot weld it. I did this before on a car and it worked great.
Good tip on printing and assembling as a paper prototype. Although my car will be much different I appreciate your time to share some ideas. Your lower control arm design looks great and gave me an idea for my front lower.
You are a badass! Not very often people share their own work without taking an arm and a leg for it. Your hard work makes it easier for everyone else. I'm sure I speak for everyone when when I say it's much appreciated.
So the fabricator who did my spindles had the idea that he wanted to be able to find parts if something broke, no matter where he was. What he ended up doing is he based his overkill design... on a Type 1 spindle axle. It has worked so far but that's only because I drive conservatively. Your design makes sense - logically AND economically. When I break mine, I'll be leaning toward a version of your design. Well done...
You do excellent work. You have more tools than me. I'm just a little envious of you. I love the spindle and got a lot of great ideas from you. You're a great fabricator!
Google is terrifying. I'm in the process of designing something similar around Audi hubs, so I find this incredibly exciting. Exceptional work, captain!
It appears he has all the complicated tools I know many professionals that have them as well and prefer to do it the simple way, because "Sometimes complicated tools simply complicate the task." Me
@@DougBugBuilder Mind blown!! Love learning little bits from you. Your newest vid gave me some great ideas for my current build. Thanks so much for the knowledge!
That is phenomenal! I absolutely love the templates to hand plazma cut the components consistently and quickly - I might well have a go at that myself! You've got yourself a sub my man!
Brake caliper centering on rotor for bracket welding. Use the shims/pads as you did then put an air hose to it clamping it proper square centered. Having the pads in stalled is important. A friend bought some weld on brackets that needed 1/4" removed the pads stuck off the edge or the rotors ( both rear as it was supposed to be kit for his Winters Quickchange). This caused the edge of the pads to not wear . The pads eventually started touching causing a gradual fade of the rear brake bias makes a dirt track car harder to setup on 1 front brake( no reason to have any brake parts on the left front for it is never on the ground 3wheel action on HP and hooked up not trick suspension.)
Always wanted to do something similar for the rears on my WRX cause I basically hate the factory design. Was thinking how big a billet piece I would need and how long it would take to hog out. Now you have me thinking of fabricating one as I have access to a CNC Plasma table along with my Mills and lathes. It’s going to come down with taking the measurements off the old uprights to design a better mousetrap
lol, yeah it was on a piece of slag or something right on the centerline, so it would have spun forever. I thought it was funny. Good to hear from you and thanks for the comment.
great work when centreing caliper i normally pump caliper pistons up with bike pump to centre it works well .great vids you do n easy to learn more stuff from
@@DougBugBuilder when you do your brake lines or fuel lines buy few bags of kitchen salt .if you block one end n pour salt in n put an orbital sander on the line to vibrate salt to the blocked end then once line is full pack it down n block the other end .i normally fold the tube over .with the line full of salt the bends will always come out nice and equal n wont lose their shape . once your fimnished just cut end off n empty salt in a air tight container to use again .i get what i can out then blow remainder out n give quick hose out .hope this helps also as my granpa told me that trick in the 60s .cheers
Hey Doug. Awesome work. I'm just researching in prep to start working on my 1970 GMC truck, and will definitely use your tips and hints with my build. It's awesome that guys want to share with other enthusiasts without trying to make a fortune on it... Just as an idea, wondering if you thought it's possible to make the spindle face and caliper bracket as one piece without welding together later causing more distortion. I'm thinking of trying that route...making the caliper bracket side little larger than required and leaving mounting holes for later. Once assembled, then I could center the caliper on the rotor to know where to place mounting holes...and make any necessary shaping to the bracket. ...all your tips and work are much appreciated.
That technique would work, I just thought this would be easier. Another thing you need to consider is any offset. Depending on your rotor you might need to offset the bracket some. Just double check it before you design the faceplate.
Great Video! I enjoy watching all the engineering that you’re able to figure out. And then you create those parts in an exceptional way. Thanks for sharing and helping us. Take care Buddy and enjoy your weekend. BigW:-)
@@DougBugBuilder thanks, I am making a Electric buggy based in the Ariel Atom desing. Your vídeos are very good for understand something about car dinamics.
I'm thinking that center brace could be a one piece design? Like the sides can be relieved and a 90. Less welding, less distortion. Anyway, awesome video and ideas you've shared.
Thanks man think I might try converting to a beam front end trying get my bug set up as a class 5 and seeing if I can find a w8 engine for my engine plant
Hello, I have been watching your videos for a long time. I'm going to rebuild one. Thank you for taking the time to make the videos. I can't find the DXF file for the front spindles.
You are just a dude, that has a wonderful craftsmanship and fabricating quality!! There is this idea roaming mi mind, and I want to know if you ever considered it too, I am tinking about using a vanagon syncro transmission and convert the baja into a 4x4 baja bug? it is not a really big challenge after all you have done already.
I'm not really interested in making a 4wd bug. But I did think how easy it would be with these spindles. Just a couple changes and you could easily get a driveshaft through there. Go for it dude! 😉
Awesome stuff. I am dreaming up my first build. Make sure when you say. "I made them exactly the same" that you tell us why. Is it because they need to be? Or its your OCD. Not everyone has all the nice tools to quickly cut and smooth things out.
Well, a little of both. But really it's a matter of trying to get all the dimensions perfect, because when you weld these parts together the heat is going to distort everything a little bit. If the parts are all square and even to begin with then the distortion will be minimum.
Superb Doug, i love your plasma template idea i'm gonna pinch that, i'm not gonna build a bug but i'm gonna follow the build for fabrication tips, Happy New Year from the UK ..... Regards Andy
Just discovered you. Awesome job in describing almost everything. I couldn't find it in your build list but what size is the uniball joint you use at both ends? Also, what size heim joints are you using for everything. Thanks in advance
These are the uniballs I used, www.kartek.com/parts/fk-rod-ends-1-id-2-18-od-hin16ta-ptfe-coated-uniball-spherical-bearings-f2-fit.html On the front suspension I used 3/4"heims. On the rear I used 7/8" heims. Here is a link to part numbers for most of the build these spindles went on, docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1n8L7M1jR3XAbXaAWAL_Lvfw-Sfx-_EL6ZaZP9neOS6g/edit#gid=0
Hey buddy, I had a question about your spindles. So I'm wanting to build some for my long travel A-arm for the front. What are you using to sandwich everything together to the hub assembly? Or would the pressure be ok on the hub? Most of the videos I see have some kind of weld on spindle to sandwich from one the inner side to the outside of the hub? Love watching your videos because of the detail you give! Just stuck on that part
So like you said typically a hub like this depends on the "stub shaft" or "axle" to draw it together. But this specific hub is for a 2wd 4Runner. So from the factory it would not have an axle in the front. So this hub has a large nut on the back side that is threaded to the outside portion. And that nut is what draws the whole assembly together. It looks like a regular hub, except on the back there is a large nut. I hope that makes sense. If you want to look it up these are Doorman hubs Part# 950-004, meant for 2wd 4Runner. Or for comparison the Doorman Part# 950-001 hubs for a 4x4 4Runner. These are what I run in the rear.
@@DougBugBuilder that's freaking awesome! I didn't even know they made those. Such a smart way to build around with those. By chance do you know if they made them in 5 lug like a 5x4.5 pattern ?
@@MrDesparza I don't know that. But what you can do is find out what vehicles have that bolt pattern. Then see if that vehicle came in 2wd. Look for something 2000 or newer. Seems earlier than that they were still using typical bearing and jam nut style hubs.
What brake calipers and pads are you running? Planning out my build and I like the idea of having single disc lighter rotors but I cant seem to find many 6 lug options.
This spindle is designed to use stock 4Runner rotors. Then I cut off the vented rotor with a grinder. Smooth it out with a lathe. And then you have a single rotor. The calipers will be Wilwood 120-5081.
I'm restoring a very worn down vehicle for an upcoming move to another state. Since I used to live in said state, I'm sadly all too aware that regardless of how structurally efficient this is.. my vehicle would be failed at safety inspection for this assembly. If it remotely looks fabricated or does not follow OEM design principles: they fail it. That isn't how the statutes read. But state inspection is not the kind of the thing to involve lawyers in, and their paranoia is the natural reaction to the state taking licenses from inspectors as aggressively as they do. Yay for Commonwealth states... Can't wait until 2026. My involvement with that state ends that year, and we're planning to move to North Dakota afterward unless plans change in that time.
Yeah I hear you, this vehicle is not street legal. It's meant for OHV parks and tracks primarily. I think going forward it will be more and more difficult to customize street legal vehicles.
Love this video! One question as a guy who likes to drift but also wants to build some travel into a suspension, do those uniballs allow for a lot of steering angle in that orientation?
These uniballs have more travel than you would think. But.... I know you drift guys really like to have a lot of steering. So if I were you I would rotate the uniballs 90 degrees. Then you will be a little (barely) limited on travel, but have all the steering you want.
'just some dude' just made a great video. looking to eventually make some drop spindles for my type 3, this is a great resource. out of interest, what was the final weight of each spindle?
So I've had some people asking about the weight of these spindles and the weight of my combo spindles for comparison. I don't have that info yet but I think I'll do a little segment where I compare the two and do weights of each so people can see the difference. So I think the short answer is give me a little time and I'll get you that info. But I can say these new spindles are quite a bit heavier as the 4Runner hubs are heavy compared to the Jamar aluminum hubs on the combo spindles.
Hey mate, I’m really getting a lot of great info on this for my project. What hub assembly do you use to build these off I would be interested in getting them for my build. I’m sure Australia has a limited market unlike the us of a. Cheers Kev.
Why do you have in separated pieces the caliper bracket and spindle?... It doesn't would be better to design as single piece?... Or because of the different thick of the plates you used?...
It would be stronger and easier if it was one piece, I agree. But having it separate allows you to run any caliper and rotor you want. Because you can adjust where the mount for the caliper goes.
@@DougBugBuilder anyway, this is one of the best videos about fabricating an spindle. Many people use donor spindle, I would prefer like you fabricate it myself. Thank you for your kind response. And keep this amazing job you doing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thanks buddy, I try to keep the cost in check. But it does in reality take a good amout of cash for projects like these. I hope you get to do this someday as well.
Most of the bits and pieces for this I bought from Kartek Offroad. If you look through the description there are some part numbers for the hubs and I think some of the uniballs too.
Well, it's really a product of what you have to work with. Generally the taller it is the stronger it will be. But usually you have to work around the chassis, and that typically decides how tall it will be. But if it get's to short it won't be very strong.
@@DougBugBuilder ok was just curious i figured that might be the case but I know off-road suspension has alot more give than a lowered car with more if a track specified stiffer suspension designed to negate body roll per sey
@@DougBugBuilder its oke Doug it works , i am waiting for my soft wear it comes white airmail , you making all the vidio''s i learn so much from you you inspire us, an i am thank you for that. thank you for te fille my email is samuelghoost@gmail.com. i have recief them in my drive, greeting from the Netherlands
Mike, Might be a dumb question but i cant find the answer in your videos. I see you're using the 2wd hub assembly for the fronts on your bug. Are you just using the 4x4 version on the rears or am I missing something? I'm interested in doing something like this with my rail project but wasn't sure how these came (splined vs non splined, etc. Thanks! Rob
Rob, you haven't missed anything yet. I have not given any info on the rears yet. I have not finalized that design. I'm hoping to do like you said and use the front 4wd hubs for the rear. But they are 30 spline and I first need to see what axles will fit in there. Once I figure that out I'll have design videos like I did for the fronts and I'll give you the specs on what axles we can use for the hubs.
I'm an HVAC service technician. Before that I worked in a metal fabrication shop for about 10 years. There we made decorative iron, and ductwork. Lately I'm more of a maintenance manager, but still in the HVAC service industry. Out of high school I went to school for auto and diesel repair. But then went into the HVAC arena.
Agree, i cant open BTPX files, and the bmp only has one piece... i was going to create the CAD file for lazer/water jet cutting... Doug can i get the file showing all the parts to cut, or am i not seeing the correct file? just looking for dimensions to create a file the cutters can use.
Great effort but for spindle isn`t the best way to do it. Geometry won`t be equal on both sides. For offroad may be acceptable, but for track racing definately not.
“But remember, I’m just some dude......” Doug, I appreciate you being humble, but we all are impressed with what some dude can do in their basement and garage. Best of luck and keep sharing all that you have the time and energy to do. Awesome work!
Thanks bud, I just don't want to mislead anybody.
I really appreciate your comment.
what he means is "I am not giving you professional advice and I am not responsible if this doesn't work for you."
like the way you think most people say I F%% thing up but ones say that just sit on A$$ it hard not to mess thing up if you dont do nothing
Great work and engineering. I'll do this to my buggy. One procedure I will change is before spot welding the caliper bracket to the spindle, Put the pads in the caliper and slip it in place over the rotor. Attach a regulated air line to the brake line port. induce to 10 psi air into caliper and if it's set in place correctly spot weld it. I did this before on a car and it worked great.
Good tip on printing and assembling as a paper prototype. Although my car will be much different I appreciate your time to share some ideas. Your lower control arm design looks great and gave me an idea for my front lower.
You are a badass! Not very often people share their own work without taking an arm and a leg for it. Your hard work makes it easier for everyone else. I'm sure I speak for everyone when when I say it's much appreciated.
Would you say this video was FTW?
Assuming that means (For The Win)....lol
@@DougBugBuilder Yes, for the win lol.
So the fabricator who did my spindles had the idea that he wanted to be able to find parts if something broke, no matter where he was. What he ended up doing is he based his overkill design... on a Type 1 spindle axle. It has worked so far but that's only because I drive conservatively.
Your design makes sense - logically AND economically. When I break mine, I'll be leaning toward a version of your design. Well done...
Thanks buddy, appreciate the comment. I hope they work out for you!
You do excellent work. You have more tools than me. I'm just a little envious of you. I love the spindle and got a lot of great ideas from you. You're a great fabricator!
Thanks 👍
Appreciate the comment.
Great ideas !!! Working on a new proyect, trying to think out of the box. This is a solid start for me. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for the comment! 👍
These are the best most instructional videos I've ever come across
Thanks buddy! Appreciate the comment. 👍
Google is terrifying. I'm in the process of designing something similar around Audi hubs, so I find this incredibly exciting.
Exceptional work, captain!
Thanks!
It's crazy how it'll link you to a video close to what you might be working on.
This is so cool! Cool that you're designing and even cooler that you're sharing the design.
Thanks buddy!
Great design and fabrication, particularly for a guy in his personal garage with simple tools! Very inspiring for the rest of us.
Thanks!
It appears he has all the complicated tools I know many professionals that have them as well and prefer to do it the simple way, because "Sometimes complicated tools simply complicate the task." Me
Grinding into a bucket is brilliant!!
Lol, thanks. Throw a little water in there and it'll catch most of the dust and stink.
@@DougBugBuilder Mind blown!! Love learning little bits from you. Your newest vid gave me some great ideas for my current build. Thanks so much for the knowledge!
i use my bath tub
I think it is so cool that you made your own design and are sharing how to do it. Thanks for all the help man!
You're welcome, thanks for the kind comment.
That is phenomenal! I absolutely love the templates to hand plazma cut the components consistently and quickly - I might well have a go at that myself! You've got yourself a sub my man!
Welcome aboard! Thanks for the comment. 👍
I'm always fascinate by what a man can do in their garage, i always love to do it if i have time to do it.
I agree, there are so many people tinkering in their garages making some great things. 👍
Thanks for the comment.
Brake caliper centering on rotor for bracket welding.
Use the shims/pads as you did then put an air hose to it clamping it proper square centered.
Having the pads in stalled is important. A friend bought some weld on brackets that needed 1/4" removed the pads stuck off the edge or the rotors ( both rear as it was supposed to be kit for his Winters Quickchange). This caused the edge of the pads to not wear . The pads eventually started touching causing a gradual fade of the rear brake bias makes a dirt track car harder to setup on 1 front brake( no reason to have any brake parts on the left front for it is never on the ground 3wheel action on HP and hooked up not trick suspension.)
All good tips, thanks for sharing. 👍
Very nice work. Motivation for those of us out there about to start a project like that. Thanks! 👍🏼
Thanks bud, glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment.
Good skills sir! Thanks and appreciate from a Vietnamese guy
👌 *penonton sangat menikmati sekali setiap proses pembuatan dan perakitanya..*
Terima kasih sobat, hargai komentarnya! ✌
Good stuff!!! Love your videos! Gonna give it a try for my A arm bug! Thanks !
Good stuff dude! I hope they work for you. I put the part numbers for it in the description.
Always wanted to do something similar for the rears on my WRX cause I basically hate the factory design. Was thinking how big a billet piece I would need and how long it would take to hog out. Now you have me thinking of fabricating one as I have access to a CNC Plasma table along with my Mills and lathes. It’s going to come down with taking the measurements off the old uprights to design a better mousetrap
With a CNC plasma, mill and a lathe I think you can build a hell of a spindle. Go for it!
Respect to you for sharing this very helpful and detailed instruction! :)
Thanks, appreciate the comment.
Nice work Mike, I liked the little bench twirl you did with the spindle, and always the Tig
lol, yeah it was on a piece of slag or something right on the centerline, so it would have spun forever. I thought it was funny.
Good to hear from you and thanks for the comment.
Great design and job fabricating this. It's actually not a spindle, but an Upright with a Hub.
Thanks! 👍
great work when centreing caliper i normally pump caliper pistons up with bike pump to centre it works well .great vids you do n easy to learn more stuff from
I'm using air next time, I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks.
@@DougBugBuilder when you do your brake lines or fuel lines buy few bags of kitchen salt .if you block one end n pour salt in n put an orbital sander on the line to vibrate salt to the blocked end then once line is full pack it down n block the other end .i normally fold the tube over .with the line full of salt the bends will always come out nice and equal n wont lose their shape . once your fimnished just cut end off n empty salt in a air tight container to use again .i get what i can out then blow remainder out n give quick hose out .hope this helps also as my granpa told me that trick in the 60s .cheers
Hey Doug. Awesome work. I'm just researching in prep to start working on my 1970 GMC truck, and will definitely use your tips and hints with my build. It's awesome that guys want to share with other enthusiasts without trying to make a fortune on it...
Just as an idea, wondering if you thought it's possible to make the spindle face and caliper bracket as one piece without welding together later causing more distortion. I'm thinking of trying that route...making the caliper bracket side little larger than required and leaving mounting holes for later. Once assembled, then I could center the caliper on the rotor to know where to place mounting holes...and make any necessary shaping to the bracket.
...all your tips and work are much appreciated.
That technique would work, I just thought this would be easier. Another thing you need to consider is any offset. Depending on your rotor you might need to offset the bracket some. Just double check it before you design the faceplate.
Subbed! This is a great video and it's awesome that you shared the plans. Thanks!
Really great advice. Thank you very much for sharing what you know :) .
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment.
Great Video! I enjoy watching all the engineering that you’re able to figure out. And then you create those parts in an exceptional way. Thanks for sharing and helping us. Take care Buddy and enjoy your weekend. BigW:-)
Thanks Big W!
Super rad you share all this. True inspiration
Thanks!
Look very nice, great job!, Thanks for the files! Amazing project!
Thanks! I hope they help.
@@DougBugBuilder thanks, I am making a Electric buggy based in the Ariel Atom desing. Your vídeos are very good for understand something about car dinamics.
Very nice,thanks Doug
Sure thing!
I'm thinking that center brace could be a one piece design? Like the sides can be relieved and a 90. Less welding, less distortion. Anyway, awesome video and ideas you've shared.
Here's a way to do your calipers easier, install the pads and hold shop air against it to simulate brakes applied then it will be perfectly centered
Thanks for the tip. 👍
Where has this channel been! Very, very cool. Sub'd
Thanks bud! Glad to have you on the team.
Fill the caliper with Pressure and brake pads to center it and hold it in place
That's a great idea and I'll do that next time.
Thanks for the tip.
@@DougBugBuilder figured that you might not have known about that process
Thanks man think I might try converting to a beam front end trying get my bug set up as a class 5 and seeing if I can find a w8 engine for my engine plant
Hello, I have been watching your videos for a long time. I'm going to rebuild one. Thank you for taking the time to make the videos. I can't find the DXF file for the front spindles.
email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com and I'll send you what I have.
You are just a dude, that has a wonderful craftsmanship and fabricating quality!!
There is this idea roaming mi mind, and I want to know if you ever considered it too, I am tinking about using a vanagon syncro transmission and convert the baja into a 4x4 baja bug? it is not a really big challenge after all you have done already.
I'm not really interested in making a 4wd bug. But I did think how easy it would be with these spindles. Just a couple changes and you could easily get a driveshaft through there. Go for it dude! 😉
Awesome stuff.
I am dreaming up my first build.
Make sure when you say. "I made them exactly the same" that you tell us why.
Is it because they need to be? Or its your OCD.
Not everyone has all the nice tools to quickly cut and smooth things out.
Well, a little of both. But really it's a matter of trying to get all the dimensions perfect, because when you weld these parts together the heat is going to distort everything a little bit. If the parts are all square and even to begin with then the distortion will be minimum.
DOUG THANKS EXCELLENT JOB BRO I WAS STUCK ON MY BUILD ON HOW OR WHICH UPRIGHTS TO USE
Good stuff dude, glad it helped.
Good luck on your build.
Superb Doug, i love your plasma template idea i'm gonna pinch that, i'm not gonna build a bug but i'm gonna follow the build for fabrication tips, Happy New Year from the UK ..... Regards Andy
Good stuff Andy, hopefully I can pass on some more usefull tips to you.
Just discovered you. Awesome job in describing almost everything. I couldn't find it in your build list but what size is the uniball joint you use at both ends?
Also, what size heim joints are you using for everything.
Thanks in advance
These are the uniballs I used, www.kartek.com/parts/fk-rod-ends-1-id-2-18-od-hin16ta-ptfe-coated-uniball-spherical-bearings-f2-fit.html
On the front suspension I used 3/4"heims. On the rear I used 7/8" heims.
Here is a link to part numbers for most of the build these spindles went on, docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1n8L7M1jR3XAbXaAWAL_Lvfw-Sfx-_EL6ZaZP9neOS6g/edit#gid=0
Hey buddy, I had a question about your spindles. So I'm wanting to build some for my long travel A-arm for the front. What are you using to sandwich everything together to the hub assembly? Or would the pressure be ok on the hub? Most of the videos I see have some kind of weld on spindle to sandwich from one the inner side to the outside of the hub? Love watching your videos because of the detail you give! Just stuck on that part
So like you said typically a hub like this depends on the "stub shaft" or "axle" to draw it together. But this specific hub is for a 2wd 4Runner. So from the factory it would not have an axle in the front. So this hub has a large nut on the back side that is threaded to the outside portion. And that nut is what draws the whole assembly together. It looks like a regular hub, except on the back there is a large nut. I hope that makes sense.
If you want to look it up these are Doorman hubs Part# 950-004, meant for 2wd 4Runner.
Or for comparison the Doorman Part# 950-001 hubs for a 4x4 4Runner. These are what I run in the rear.
@@DougBugBuilder that's freaking awesome! I didn't even know they made those. Such a smart way to build around with those. By chance do you know if they made them in 5 lug like a 5x4.5 pattern ?
@@MrDesparza I don't know that. But what you can do is find out what vehicles have that bolt pattern. Then see if that vehicle came in 2wd. Look for something 2000 or newer. Seems earlier than that they were still using typical bearing and jam nut style hubs.
What brake calipers and pads are you running? Planning out my build and I like the idea of having single disc lighter rotors but I cant seem to find many 6 lug options.
This spindle is designed to use stock 4Runner rotors. Then I cut off the vented rotor with a grinder. Smooth it out with a lathe. And then you have a single rotor. The calipers will be Wilwood 120-5081.
I'm restoring a very worn down vehicle for an upcoming move to another state. Since I used to live in said state, I'm sadly all too aware that regardless of how structurally efficient this is.. my vehicle would be failed at safety inspection for this assembly. If it remotely looks fabricated or does not follow OEM design principles: they fail it.
That isn't how the statutes read. But state inspection is not the kind of the thing to involve lawyers in, and their paranoia is the natural reaction to the state taking licenses from inspectors as aggressively as they do.
Yay for Commonwealth states...
Can't wait until 2026. My involvement with that state ends that year, and we're planning to move to North Dakota afterward unless plans change in that time.
Yeah I hear you, this vehicle is not street legal. It's meant for OHV parks and tracks primarily.
I think going forward it will be more and more difficult to customize street legal vehicles.
Genius 👏
Thanks!
Gonna copy you're work sir ,,hope I do you proud
By copying me you are already honoring me! ✌
I hope it works out for you.
Love this video!
One question as a guy who likes to drift but also wants to build some travel into a suspension, do those uniballs allow for a lot of steering angle in that orientation?
These uniballs have more travel than you would think. But.... I know you drift guys really like to have a lot of steering. So if I were you I would rotate the uniballs 90 degrees. Then you will be a little (barely) limited on travel, but have all the steering you want.
@@DougBugBuilder Thank you sir!! Much appreciated! :)
'just some dude' just made a great video. looking to eventually make some drop spindles for my type 3, this is a great resource. out of interest, what was the final weight of each spindle?
So I've had some people asking about the weight of these spindles and the weight of my combo spindles for comparison. I don't have that info yet but I think I'll do a little segment where I compare the two and do weights of each so people can see the difference. So I think the short answer is give me a little time and I'll get you that info. But I can say these new spindles are quite a bit heavier as the 4Runner hubs are heavy compared to the Jamar aluminum hubs on the combo spindles.
Hi. What was the weight of the hub assembly without disc, hub bearing and disc?
Cheers
Sorry, I don't have that exact weight. And right now it's assembled and on the chassis. So I can't weight it for you.
Does the caliper need to be able to float/slide a little so that it centers itself on the rotor?
That depends on the style of caliper you use. Some will, but most aftermarket calipers have pistons on both sides. So they get mounted rigidly.
@@DougBugBuilder I did not know that, thanks
How come you welded the bracket for caliper ? Why not use the hub bolts and make the caliper bolt to that ?
The way the casting is on these hubs it doesn't really lend itself to securely bolt anything behind it.
Hey mate,
I’m really getting a lot of great info on this for my project.
What hub assembly do you use to build these off I would be interested in getting them for my build.
I’m sure Australia has a limited market unlike the us of a.
Cheers Kev.
Those are hubs from a 2006 Toyota 4Runner. They need to be the ones from the 2wd model.
Mine specifically Doorman #950-004
Hope that helps.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Good stuff!
Thanks!
What is the steel material?
Love the work and video.
just curious if you need 4 heim joints for this vehicle? I have seen some designs that use 2 joints with triangular A arms.
I'm not sure I understand. I could get away with that in the rear. But because of the steering I need a heim on the top and bottom.
@@DougBugBuilder yes but only one top and one bottom
A like at the top of the "A"
protodie.com/Front-A-Arm-Kit-1-14-diachassis-mount-plates_p_65.html
Wooooow!!!!
lol, Thanks!
Hey Doug, I’m a bit new to this , but where do I find the download?
Email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com and I'll send them to you.
hi, the steel you use is carbon steel?? or what steel i can use, in my country do not have chromoly, thanks for response.
Yeah the steel I made these out of is regular old mild steel.
Why do you have in separated pieces the caliper bracket and spindle?... It doesn't would be better to design as single piece?... Or because of the different thick of the plates you used?...
It would be stronger and easier if it was one piece, I agree. But having it separate allows you to run any caliper and rotor you want. Because you can adjust where the mount for the caliper goes.
@@DougBugBuilder anyway, this is one of the best videos about fabricating an spindle. Many people use donor spindle, I would prefer like you fabricate it myself. Thank you for your kind response. And keep this amazing job you doing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
So you have any videos with these knuckles attached to your a arms?
No, I haven't got them that far yet. When I do mount them up I will have a video of that.
Eagerly not so patiently waiting lol
I like how you work
I hope some day got money for doing this
Thanks buddy, I try to keep the cost in check. But it does in reality take a good amout of cash for projects like these.
I hope you get to do this someday as well.
Keep up the good work.
Hi Doug, you mind me asking, do you have a few suppliers for the mechanical stuff you buy?
Most of the bits and pieces for this I bought from Kartek Offroad. If you look through the description there are some part numbers for the hubs and I think some of the uniballs too.
Thanks, Doug.
ok i did work frend thank you you are a guy wiht a good hart a nice guy
Glad you got it! Thanks.
What’s the weight of these once assembled?
I've had several inquiries about this. So I think I'll do a little segment comparing the two. So hang tight and I'll get you that info.
What grade of steel did you use?? Thanks
Mild steel, nothing fancy. Most of it is 3/16" thick. A couple pieces are 1/8" thick.
How do you know how tall to make a spindle?
Well, it's really a product of what you have to work with. Generally the taller it is the stronger it will be. But usually you have to work around the chassis, and that typically decides how tall it will be. But if it get's to short it won't be very strong.
I know your "just a guy" but how well do you think something simular would hold up on a lowered street car?
This would handle a street car just fine. It's designed for off road use, so street use shouldn't push it beyond failure.
@@DougBugBuilder ok was just curious i figured that might be the case but I know off-road suspension has alot more give than a lowered car with more if a track specified stiffer suspension designed to negate body roll per sey
Boss 🤘🏽
Thanks! 👍
Hanzhen harmonic gear , over 30 years experience , industrial robot arm gear
Thanks!
You bet!
Could this spindle be adapted for 4x4?
Yes, just use the 4Runner 4x4 hubs not the 2x4 hubs and you'll be good to go.
@@DougBugBuilder Just curious about how the cv axle would interfere with the bracing
@@BrianW2979 Geez, I didn't think about that. I don't think it would clear without modifications to the spindle. Sorry.
i trei to download bet it dont work, so how do i download the desgine from te spindel
Email me at dougbugbuilder@gmail.com and I can send you the files.
@@DougBugBuilder its oke Doug it works , i am waiting for my soft wear it comes white airmail , you making all the vidio''s i learn so much from you you inspire us, an i am thank you for that. thank you for te fille
my email is samuelghoost@gmail.com.
i have recief them in my drive, greeting from the Netherlands
how many thickness dimensions steel plate?
.125" or a little over 3mm
Mike,
Might be a dumb question but i cant find the answer in your videos. I see you're using the 2wd hub assembly for the fronts on your bug. Are you just using the 4x4 version on the rears or am I missing something? I'm interested in doing something like this with my rail project but wasn't sure how these came (splined vs non splined, etc.
Thanks!
Rob
Rob, you haven't missed anything yet. I have not given any info on the rears yet. I have not finalized that design. I'm hoping to do like you said and use the front 4wd hubs for the rear. But they are 30 spline and I first need to see what axles will fit in there. Once I figure that out I'll have design videos like I did for the fronts and I'll give you the specs on what axles we can use for the hubs.
Doug Bug fantastic, I’ll keep my eyes out for it.
get it laser cut its not taht expensive and its super accurate
Garage basement, basement garage, you getting a work out too.
Maybe an elevator next or how about a dumb waiter.
Man, I went up and down those stairs soooo many times... 🤣
how do I download them
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1X_-Lwi-Yv81catR8aBayd-FHsyBDrwcy
You should be able to get Bitmap files from my shared folder here.
You should open this video with a warning that these are not legal for use on public roads
Alot of time and detail in everything you do, never asked you before but what do you do for a living?
I'm an HVAC service technician. Before that I worked in a metal fabrication shop for about 10 years. There we made decorative iron, and ductwork. Lately I'm more of a maintenance manager, but still in the HVAC service industry.
Out of high school I went to school for auto and diesel repair. But then went into the HVAC arena.
Dude just make dxf files and send them to the laser cutters the exact sizes and get them done first time
Agree, i cant open BTPX files, and the bmp only has one piece... i was going to create the CAD file for lazer/water jet cutting... Doug can i get the file showing all the parts to cut, or am i not seeing the correct file? just looking for dimensions to create a file the cutters can use.
NM i'm an idiot i found them
I went to Cabrillo College.
Great effort but for spindle isn`t the best way to do it. Geometry won`t be equal on both sides. For offroad may be acceptable, but for track racing definately not.
14.24 that's what she said hahahahaha
I hated welding.
Great video and spindle design. Consider ordering your steel in "pickled and oiled" condition, makes for prettier welds.
Thanks!
Thank you!
You're welcome!