Working it too hard. Feed rate and depth expectations are way too high for a hobby machine. A 400W spindle is going to be a lot more limited than a conventional trim router regardless what end mill you use. To get a good finish at those speeds, you need more hp (specifically torque) to cut and move chips efficiently, or a slower feed rate to give the stock spindle more time to do so. Power = torque * speed. 10-12K rpm is good speed, but a 400W spindle is only 0.3-0.4nm, whereas a 1000W spindle or trim router provides more than twice as much torque at the same speed. If you want better results, upgrade the spindle or drop to 10ipm and 1/16" depth per pass and start there. Work your way up with different bits. It's slower, but again, it's a hobby machine. Try Easel instead. All in one software. Can be used free with limited features. I use the Pro version. Well worth the $. Never had any problems with it or the machine. They have presets for most desktop machines (including this one) to help eliminate the guesswork. If you push anything beyond its limit, expect damage and failures.
I watched. I like your oil bath idea. It stays pretty clean while cutting, though I am sure there is a messy cleanup. I think I heard "downcut bit". I did not see feeds and speeds info. I use an inexpensive 20 gallon compressor for air nozzle. I cut dry because the MDF spoilboard would be ruined by oil or other fluid. I have upgraded to a Linear Rail Z Axis and 1.5.kW spindle and aluminum cutting is greatly improved. These are in my more recent vids. Thanks for watching.
@@adventuresinenginerding I used the compress bit for the bathtub-pocket. For the aluminum cut I used the cheap „Ball-nose“ endmill from genmitsu. It worked the best so far.
nice to see people try with small desktop machine as it shows what can be done I would say your stepper motors are stalling and probably causing an out of sync issue Try using a 6mm 2 flute cutter because the cutter is gumming up quicker on a 3 flute, Also so use some lube like WD40 , personally im not fond of using it, because it is a pain to clean up everything afterwards so I use proper soluble cutting fluid. see how you get on and let us know.
@@adventuresinenginerding Usually the vibration of an inexpensive aluminum machine is hard to control. After awhile, it can deform hole sizes , adding more fuel to the fire. It's like chasing a fly around a room .
I bought one of the ANNOYTOOLS CNC Aluminum Z Axis Spindle Motor Mount 85mm kit from Amazon so I could use my Makita RT0701C compact router instead of a spindle on my 3018 prover. But I haven't tried aluminum yet. Disadvantage is no automatic speed control. Advantage is way more power 1.25 HP = 932 watts.
i too have not tried it with my RT0701C and i highly doubt it will work. milling aluminum requires more power i believe plus a lot more rigid cnc frame.
There looks to be a lot of flex in the spindle motor shaft. From experience with those motors I would also think that the chuck is offset so your cutters aren't running true. Keep it up. I would suggest a spindle motor where the collet is integral giving a thicker output shaft with heftier bearings. A palm router or ideally a spindle motor.
@davers1060 I actually found a lot of flex in the Z Axis. I replaced it in a subsequent video and got much improved results. A new spindle is next. Thanks.
Hi,,,Trye to change electric wiering, my pal had the same problem, he shange wiering and it got better. It was problem with magneting issius. ( i´m from sweden , sorry with my english)
I wonder, if my small CNC 1419 can do any better, but at the moment, I'm glad, I can mill some plastic. Don't lose your enthusiasm! I wish you best of luck! ✌️
the issue that your bit runs straight to your workpiece is because you have connected the offline controller and the pc at the same time. they are using the sam comunication line and interfere with each other. disconnect the offline controller and try just the pc.
The end mill doesn’t seem to be cutting, I think 2 flute end mill, with coolant will help improve matters. It’s probably not cutting fast enough, that’s why it gets stuck. Is the end mill carbide and of good quality? As for the program freezing. Run the control wires separately from the motor lines, especially the spindle power. It’s customary to power the control card from a separate power supply other than the motor power supplies
@arbjful Upgading the Z axis greatly improved it (another vid). There was a lit of flex there. Now I am using a cheap 1 flute with pretty good results. 300mm/min, 0.3mm . Slow, but I can wait.
@arbjful Also, I had the offline controller attached while using UGS via USB so there was a contention issue. Only one at a time! Also separated the motor & spindle wires. Good suggestions, thanks.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. A while back I spoke got some good advice from a mechanical engineer friend about manufacturability baked into the design. Now I am trying to bridge the gap from part design (still learning that too) to actual part while learning about machining and with a CNC that may not be capable. It is a fun journey though. That same mechanical engineer also gave me some other advice along the lines of "stop bothering me with these trivial problems, I'm busy". Then he turned Rick and Morty back on. I'll take your advice and find some new ideas...
Cut the shank off shorter on the end mill or chuck it up more with something will help some it all adds up a little 👍🇺🇸the little spindle sticks out so far.
@@adventuresinenginerding yes sir it all adds up 👍we will be cutting mostly wood I hope I don’t have to do to much work on it good luck I’ll be watching 👍don’t for get to check out ED3D creations he’s got some great ideas I hope I don’t need lol
![[Live] ศึกมหึมันส์มวยไทยสังเวียนเดือด เวทีมวยชั่วคราวสวนสยาม | จันทร์ 30 กันยายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pM1k6f7JXUc/mqdefault.jpg)
Working it too hard. Feed rate and depth expectations are way too high for a hobby machine. A 400W spindle is going to be a lot more limited than a conventional trim router regardless what end mill you use. To get a good finish at those speeds, you need more hp (specifically torque) to cut and move chips efficiently, or a slower feed rate to give the stock spindle more time to do so. Power = torque * speed. 10-12K rpm is good speed, but a 400W spindle is only 0.3-0.4nm, whereas a 1000W spindle or trim router provides more than twice as much torque at the same speed. If you want better results, upgrade the spindle or drop to 10ipm and 1/16" depth per pass and start there. Work your way up with different bits. It's slower, but again, it's a hobby machine. Try Easel instead. All in one software. Can be used free with limited features. I use the Pro version. Well worth the $. Never had any problems with it or the machine. They have presets for most desktop machines (including this one) to help eliminate the guesswork. If you push anything beyond its limit, expect damage and failures.
I can cut aluminum fairly well. I also have a video about it.
What compressor do you use for the cooling ?
I watched. I like your oil bath idea. It stays pretty clean while cutting, though I am sure there is a messy cleanup. I think I heard "downcut bit". I did not see feeds and speeds info.
I use an inexpensive 20 gallon compressor for air nozzle. I cut dry because the MDF spoilboard would be ruined by oil or other fluid. I have upgraded to a Linear Rail Z Axis and 1.5.kW spindle and aluminum cutting is greatly improved. These are in my more recent vids. Thanks for watching.
@@adventuresinenginerding
I used the compress bit for the bathtub-pocket.
For the aluminum cut I used the cheap „Ball-nose“ endmill from genmitsu. It worked the best so far.
@@adventuresinenginerding the speed was 600mm/min and the load was 0.2 mm
Depth was 4mm I think.
nice to see people try with small desktop machine as it shows what can be done
I would say your stepper motors are stalling and probably causing an out of sync issue
Try using a 6mm 2 flute cutter because the cutter is gumming up quicker on a 3 flute,
Also so use some lube
like WD40 , personally im not fond of using it, because it is a pain to clean up everything afterwards so I use proper soluble cutting fluid.
see how you get on and let us know.
A 2.2K Watt spindle is close to a minimum for metal. A 400W is not even a dermal.
Changing the Z Axis to linear rails was a game changer (another video). Power without rigidity is useless. A new spindle is next. Thanks.
@@adventuresinenginerding
Usually the vibration of an inexpensive aluminum machine is hard to control. After awhile, it can deform hole sizes , adding more fuel to the fire. It's like chasing a fly around a room .
I bought one of the ANNOYTOOLS CNC Aluminum Z Axis Spindle Motor Mount 85mm kit from Amazon so I could use my Makita RT0701C compact router instead of a spindle on my 3018 prover. But I haven't tried aluminum yet. Disadvantage is no automatic speed control. Advantage is way more power 1.25 HP = 932 watts.
i too have not tried it with my RT0701C and i highly doubt it will work. milling aluminum requires more power i believe plus a lot more rigid cnc frame.
There looks to be a lot of flex in the spindle motor shaft. From experience with those motors I would also think that the chuck is offset so your cutters aren't running true. Keep it up. I would suggest a spindle motor where the collet is integral giving a thicker output shaft with heftier bearings. A palm router or ideally a spindle motor.
@davers1060 I actually found a lot of flex in the Z Axis. I replaced it in a subsequent video and got much improved results. A new spindle is next. Thanks.
Hi,,,Trye to change electric wiering, my pal had the same problem, he shange wiering and it got better. It was problem with magneting issius. ( i´m from sweden , sorry with my english)
Thanks. I think it is because of computer and offline controller connected at the same time. But cables across motors EMI can also be an issue.
Magneting fields between cables, start problems.
I wonder, if my small CNC 1419 can do any better, but at the moment, I'm glad, I can mill some plastic. Don't lose your enthusiasm! I wish you best of luck! ✌️
Thanks. I think I'll get there. If not, Office Space printer scene time!
the issue that your bit runs straight to your workpiece is because you have connected the offline controller and the pc at the same time. they are using the sam comunication line and interfere with each other. disconnect the offline controller and try just the pc.
Thanks. Someone else also suggested that and I can't believe I didn't think of it.
The end mill doesn’t seem to be cutting, I think 2 flute end mill, with coolant will help improve matters. It’s probably not cutting fast enough, that’s why it gets stuck. Is the end mill carbide and of good quality?
As for the program freezing. Run the control wires separately from the motor lines, especially the spindle power. It’s customary to power the control card from a separate power supply other than the motor power supplies
@arbjful Upgading the Z axis greatly improved it (another vid). There was a lit of flex there. Now I am using a cheap 1 flute with pretty good results. 300mm/min, 0.3mm . Slow, but I can wait.
@arbjful Also, I had the offline controller attached while using UGS via USB so there was a contention issue. Only one at a time! Also separated the motor & spindle wires. Good suggestions, thanks.
Keep on trying. Its not you that's failing, it just your ideas.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. A while back I spoke got some good advice from a mechanical engineer friend about manufacturability baked into the design. Now I am trying to bridge the gap from part design (still learning that too) to actual part while learning about machining and with a CNC that may not be capable. It is a fun journey though. That same mechanical engineer also gave me some other advice along the lines of "stop bothering me with these trivial problems, I'm busy". Then he turned Rick and Morty back on. I'll take your advice and find some new ideas...
Remember 2 things! Never give up
I have the same cnc and after 1year upgrading and using it pretty much daily i can say throw away the offline controller.
When i use the laptop and the offline controller is connect i always had the same problems.
@DSchachinger AHA! I did not think of disconnecting the offline controller. Of course there could be a contention issue. Thanks!
Cut the shank off shorter on the end mill or chuck it up more with something will help some it all adds up a little 👍🇺🇸the little spindle sticks out so far.
Thanks, Those 1/8" bits do look pretty fragile, but Z axis replacement has reduced broken bits.
@@adventuresinenginerding yes sir it all adds up 👍we will be cutting mostly wood I hope I don’t have to do to much work on it good luck I’ll be watching 👍don’t for get to check out ED3D creations he’s got some great ideas I hope I don’t need lol