Debunked - Dodge Fuel Synchronization - Part 1 (Setup for Parts 2-4)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มี.ค. 2020
- In this video I show a cam position sensor inside the distributor of my 1998 Dodge Ram 360. The key point to take away from this video is DO NOT REMOVE OR ROTATE the distributor or you’ll cost yourself about $100 for a dealer to reset what’s called the fuel synchronization. I’ll explain what this means in part 2 of this video topic but for now just leave the distributor securely bolted in place. The reason this came up is while I was doing the Kegger mod and plenum plate in my other videos I decided to replace the timing set, the water pump, the radiator, all cooling hoses, and the distributor cap, rotor and wires. When I took the distributor cap off and saw the cam sensor I immediately recognized that the setup was identical to a 2002 GM 4.3 Vortec in which I replaced the distributor about a year ago. On the GM 4.3, the distributor gear was worn so badly that it set a code P0340 which is cam sensor synchronization code. The gear play caused the cam sensor to get “out of sync” with the crankshaft position sensor. Again more on this in part 2 but bottom line is on the 4.3, distributor rotation is NOT adjustable. The clamp is secured to the distributor and the clamp mounting does not allow any rotational adjustment so essentially the distributor is synchronized automatically when it’s installed. On the Dodge, the clamp allows for rotation so you need a special Dodge OBDII scantool to set the fuel synchronization again if the distributor is disturbed. So DONT DISTURB THE DISTRIBUTOR.
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[#SHORTS CLIP] ครูอึ้ง กรรมการอึ้ง ฮ่าๆ l ซานิเบาได้เบา l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qeBTuMJs4t0/mqdefault.jpg)
You can set the distributor using a multimeter, a scan tool isn't needed. 1st make sure your distributor (camshaft position sensor) is installed correctly and leave the hold down snug enough so you can still turn it. Next clean the dirt and rust off harmonic balancer so you can read the marks. if you have V8 look for the mark that reads v8 if u have a v6 look for the mark that says v6, and line the appropriate mark up with the 0 degree or the TDC mark on the timing chain cover just like when your setting your ignition timing. Step 2 find the wires coming off your distributor (there will be 3 of them). now on the harness side of the plug locate the ( being either tan or brown) 5v reference wire. Now set your multimeter to a 20 amp read on the DC side and probe the (brown or tan) wire with the red lead on the multimeter and connect the black lead to the neg side of your battery. 3rd switch your ignition switch on, but do not crank the vehicle! with the meter hooked up watch the reading as u gently rotate the distributor back and forth, you will begin to see the reading change from 0.05 to 5.02. The goal here is to tighten the hold down, when see a 5.00v reading on your multimeter. A scanner is only used to read the current value (from the same 5v reference wire) that can easily be simulated with a multimeter
This is not entirely correct. The method might work but scanners don’t read voltages. They collect serial digital data from the ECUs data port. The number that the ECU is sending out the serial data port is the number of degrees from the crankshaft to cam shaft ideal zero reference plus or minus an allowed tolerance in degrees that the system will allow before setting a code and disabling the fuel system. The voltmeter method is probably finding the edge of the allowed tolerance window so it works but it’s not ideal.
It is a Hall-effect pickup sensor, not a photo-sensor. The 'shutter' vane can hit against the Hall-effect pickup if the distributor shaft is worn or the plastic stakes loosen up. The inside of the distributor may be dusty if this occurs.
Turning the distributor does not affect spark timing. That is determined by the stationary crankshaft position sensor in the bell-housing. The PCM controls spark advance & idle speed.
I thought Hall effect shutters had to be metal? I’ve seen plastic shutters on some applications.
I have parts 2 and 3 I would like your opinion on.
Exactly what I needed to see, Thank you
How’s that?
If you look down from the top. You will see a hole in the “pulse ring” that aligns with the hole in the bottom of the distributor housing if you line those up the Rotor should point to the mark on the distributor housing and your timing is set.
I will check into this.
I’ve put more thought into this. Lining up a hole in the “pulse ring” with a hole directly below in the distributor body would work only if the crankshaft were set to a predetermined position so you have a reference point for the crankshaft. You are setting the cam sensor position relative to the crank position so the crank needs to be at a location determined by Dodge engineers. Most likely there is a mark on the harmonic balancer that has to be lined up with a mark on the engine. Keep in mind this has nothing to do with ignition timing. The computer has complete control of that using the crank position sensor.
@@moccasinmarine That's what happens when I try to make a quick post from my phone. Yes you need to be #1 TDC. When you align the drive gear on the distributor with the cam so that all the marks match, distributor, pulse ring and rotor. That's all I've done in the past and the computer does the rest.
Jeff Jones good to know. Is this in a service manual? I’ll try this next time a have access to my balancer.
@@moccasinmarine Actually never checked the balancer. Mine was in a van. slid in the motor, installed the distributor, and installed a new balancer but didn't pay any attention to the balancer markings.
I just changed mind last month it shut off and just kept on turning over
Would any of this cause an engine to have poor throttle response by way of seemingly no adjustment to timing by the PCM? I just pulled my dad's old Ram out of the woods this spring and my friend did the lion share of resto on it mechanically. It does have new injectors and cap/rotor. It turns on and runs, but basically only responds to low throttle activation. If I floor it it might do nothing, or it might if running at road speeds dump to 1st. But from 20% throttle to 90% throttle it basically does nothing other than ever so slowly crawl a bit faster. For reference, the engine and trans themselves have less than 10k on them having been replaced a decade or more ago.
It’s not timing. The engine won’t start if cam sensor is not working and once it’s running, the PCM doesn’t need cam sensor for ignition timing.
Being that it sat up a long time my guess is either bad fuel, wrong size injectors, fuel pump gummed up or sluggish. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure fuel pressure while running. I think that’s where you’ll find your problem.
@@moccasinmarine I had already grabbed a fuel gauge and will test this weekend. Hadn't thought of injectors being wrong size... might be worth verifying. I was going to test based on it having a new fuel pump in case it wasn't hitting pressure. I did go on to find the other videos last night and realized the distributor is a goofy cam sensor of sorts. That does alleviate my concern about it.
what is the sensor that is to the left of the distributor cap called?
Oil pressure sensor
Oil pressure sensor .
Where's part 2 or the rest of the video?
I was waiting until I had done more research and testing but ultimately Part 2 is going to explain why you get no performance gain regardless of fuel synchronization setting and Part 3 is going to show how to set the fuel synchronization without a scantool.
Part 2 is now posted.
What is the symptoms of a bad disk?
If the computer does not get the proper signal during cranking the engine won’t start.
Can you please help me. 2003 ram 1500 van. New rotor button and cap new coil and new crank sensor. Still no start 😢 pls help
@@moccasinmarine cool thank you for the info.
@@10percent48 battery?
What kind of distributor is that I never seen one like that
It’s a distributor used in late 90s model sequential fuel injection systems. The timing is no longer set by the distributor in this engine. Dodge shouldn’t even allowed it to be adjustable. GM locked their distributors of this era so they couldn’t rotate. DODGE left it adjustable but it requires a scan tool to set it back where it has to be if disturbed. The point of the video is don’t disturb the distributor until you mark its location.
@@moccasinmarine No, It doess not require a scan tool. Just a volt meter and you can do it in your driveway. A lot of videos on TH-cam regarding that!
@@thunaruit requires a scantool if you want to set it back to a specific number. With a voltmeter you don’t know exactly where in the range you are. I would set it in the middle of its range for the best longevity.
Veggie Tales can be very entertaining but I've had to move on to understanding Dodge. I keep asking, why? When the whole world was more advanced than that during that period of time, why?
What in the hell are you talking about? GM had the same distributor based engine using cam sensors in the distributor in 1998. That’s what whole video series is about.
Snap on will do the fuel sync
Yep but not many people own a snap on scanner
@@moccasinmarine being that any of them from the red brick up will do it Alot more than you think have them or can get off eBay for cheaper than one visit to a shop that is willing to still do this job. Im in the state of Michigan and I have called every dodge dealer in the state trying to get it done every one of them said that they didn't have any idea of what I was talking about even after showing them the service information and then still want to charge me 150 diag and then an hour labor to repair. I bought the soulus in a case with every adapter battery and updated to 2018 vehicles off eBay for 400$ and could have gotten a red brick for around 200 but I do Alot of work still and splurged for the best one I could afford
@@claytoncoolidge992 the point of the video is if you don’t disturb the distributor or mark it relative to the block where it can be put back in the same position you don’t have to set fuel sync after a rebuild.
@@moccasinmarine marking it isn't good enough that's my point and unfortunately moving the dizzy weather for a broken bolt oil pump drive shaft or bushings needed to be replaced especially being these are over 20 years old now is highly likely. I'm just trying to add to your information witch is great if like you said you don't have to remove it
Curious about the thumbs down. You don’t like saving $100?
One of the thumbs down is mine. I hit it by accident.
Get to the point boss
I did. Did you not watch parts 2 and 3?
Put the part on but the part is faulty it’s still doing the same thing
There’s nothing wrong with the part.
@@moccasinmarine then what is it what’s the suspense
Watch parts 2 and 3. If you still don’t know what the suspense is I can’t help you.