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This is an open system. It fills up with raw water automatically once the drive is turning. You can’t and SHOULD not attempt to put coolant in this system. All the coolant will come out on the ground in less than 2 minutes.

Antifreeze for winter I have to run it though the system 100%

th-cam.com/video/LboIjbWTRTc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oyJGwj7yTzwHYYuR

Around the 30 min mark

th-cam.com/video/LboIjbWTRTc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=u7f7CHyeqpur_dO9

If there are no leaks the system expansion tank should do the job of allowing the water to expand and contract between run cycles. So after initial fill and expansion you don’t need the bottle. But in the real world the bottle makes up for any leaks over time.

I don’t know what you mean by closed loop. What loop are you closing? Is your engine carbureted or fuel injection?

You need to watch my #1 video in this series and pay very close attention. I do not recommend any other module than the Delco D1965A. All others are Chinese knock offs and more than likely will give you problems like random stalling on the water. It happened to 6 of my customers. Once I replaced the aftermarket (Sierra Included) modules with genuine GM modules the issues went away. I don’t sell any modules because I need all that I have for my complete kits. They are sold for around $225 on Marine Parts Source. marinepartssource.com/ignition-module-o-e-delco?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtXKRTh79qfo79GuMcCTXYcIQCte&gclid=Cj0KCQjw05i4BhDiARIsAB_2wfAA-6tRgtbIS2Vkr765tu65JP90oBqPJe2812CFvO-s-S3N_eshnjsaAqyvEALw_wcB If you don’t see GM on the module it’s a knock off, not always but usually. Older NOS modules may not have the GM logo but they are GM modules. Volvo Penta 3854003 is the same part.

it’s in the video.

Found it I wasn’t able to get the 7.601 that you ordered but got the 7.645 from a 71-72 boss 302 they’re from Elgin as well. Would you say the .044 extra would give that higher percentage you would have shot for?

Using your math I’d be at 75% but I’ll measure mine too! This video was a HUGE HELP for running small base circle #351w #camshafts from #speedmaster!

It’s in the first video in this playlist but you can’t find them.

@@moccasinmarine so the D1965A will work on boats?

If you didn’t buy my kit you are headed down a rabbit hole I can’t get you out of. While I’m pretty sure you bought a kit before you found my you tube kits, you need to watch my videos very carefully. I explain that other kits are inferior because they don’t use genuine GM ignition modules. You can order anything you want but knowing what to order takes work. The manual for the Delco EST is found here: f01.justanswer.com/oldnewenglandmarine/36c97f52-be29-4a64-9ab5-8bf8b351bf86_Delco_EST.pdf

Also, you said TB V not IV, my IV looks just like this, plugs and all, can I set it up like this or not? Everything appears the same except the wires on coil are purple and gray, but Im good with wiring so Im not scared.

I’m not understanding your questions. First if your system looks like a TB 5 then it’s a TB 5. The TB 4 is entirely different. You are also asking questions that have been covered in several videos. Finally, I sell a kit that I created using knowledge and skills. The parts contained in my kits are proprietary and I don’t reveal individual part numbers.

​​@@moccasinmarineOk, I was a bit confused because I was sure it was a V, but the part number on the ignition control box came back to a IV, must be an error. TY. .

Anything but genuine GM is a crapshoot. You haven’t watched enough of my videos to know that aftermarket modules fail on a regular basis. Also, do you really think a $20 Chinese made module knockoff is going to work reliably? You get what you pay for.

@@moccasinmarine great, found one on rock auto genuine delco, did not know I could get original

I also saw that one. It’s also listed on eBay and finditparts.com. I didn’t buy it because it doesn’t look genuine GM. What happens is someone buys the GM module, swaps in a knockoff, returns it for a refund, and RockAuto not having humans just sells it again as GM. The giveaway is the chrome screw holes. GM doesn’t use chrome screw holes on any modules I’ve ever seen.

I did another video on how I adjust valves. I only used the method in this video because the manual explains it this way. I think my way is much better and faster. Mercruiser 3.0 3(c) - Easier Way To Adjust Valves!! th-cam.com/video/1A7mteNPCxc/w-d-xo.html

@moccasinmarine I have brand new lifters to install and set the rockers In a motor I just had rebuilt. Do I presoak the lifters in oil?

@@Molly-hk2rk there is no point in soaking lifters in oil. All it does is make a mess. Since the 3.0 is a flat tappet camshaft you do need to use assemble lube on the lifter face and can lobe when installing lifters. Just put a few drops of oil all around the lifter body and assembly lube and install the lifter. Without oil pressure around the lifter oil will not enter the lifter body even if they are soaked in oil. When you prime the engine with with a drill it will fill the lifters with oil at that time. Also do not run the engine at idle during first run. It needs to run 1500-2000 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the camshaft. This is critical to having the camshaft last.

Watch the video and read the comments. Your questions are already answered.

A new outdrive system with transom plate and drive is going to cost 10 times or more than your engines combined.

@moccasinmarine I need a new transom no matter what route I take, a new outboard is $15k... I'm looking at Bravo outdrives for $5k...

You changed the rules on me. You didn’t say it needed a new transom anyway. But the labor to rebuild the transom assembly and the drive is going to be over $10k alone.

If the nut isn’t a friction nut then yes torque it down. No adjustment needed.

Put a socket on the alternator nut and turn alternator. If belt slips put more tension on belt with your palm.

No video on winterizing but if you are running antifreeze on the closed side half is already done. Just follow the pipe coming off the hull and drain all low points. The exhaust manifolds will need draining and the raw water side of the heat exchanger. If its fuel injected the fuel cooler as well. EDIT: let me clarify low points. I’m not talking about just the obvious lowest piping in the bilge. I’m talking about traps where water is trapped in any low points below two higher points. In the video the pipes leaving the heat exchanger going to the bottom of the exhaust manifolds are low traps even though the raw water pipe at the fuel cooler is technically lower. So if we use the engine in the video as an example, you’ll need to drain the raw water pump itself and the hose leaving it going to the steering cooler, you’ll need to drain the fuel cooler, and then drain the hose under both exhaust manifolds. To drain a hose Mercruiser usually installs the blue twist plugs to make it easier but not always. As long as you have good antifreeze the block and intake doesn’t need draining.

@@moccasinmarine i would also love a video on winterising it!

Call Scott’s Machine Shop in Fayetteville GA. He can sell you one or tell you where to get one.

This video is 2 years old and i haven’t touched the drive since so I can’t help you.

Still working on it.

@@moccasinmarine that isnt selling your video claiming how easy the conversion is!!! can i ask why you havent done it yet? time/finances/complexity?

@@moccasinmarine i am between a straight up repower with a 350MAG or consider LS swap

I didn’t say I haven’t done it yet. I said I’m working on it. When you launch a new product you don’t just throw junk on the market that’s untested and not profitable to manufacture. An LS in factory configuration won’t fit in a boat. It’s easy for me but not for most people so I’m trying to make it easy for everyone as in buy my kit, bolt it on, drop it in, and go boating. That’s takes time to develop and do sea trials. I’ll have all this done by November in time to launch in December for winter repowering.

No you still have to drain the exhaust manifolds as they are low points in the raw water side. Any low points in raw water side still have to be drained.

I’m doing two conversions now. Videos released in about a month. You can run the Alpha one but you may have to change props or gear ratios.

Glad you liked it!

More to come!

By the nature of your question you don’t understand the difference between static and dynamic timing. I have videos on static timing elsewhere on my channel.

@@moccasinmarine I got my distributor set ready to fire on cylinder one and I have the notch on the pulley lined to tdc “0” I’ve got my timing light ready I’ve got my jumper wire set and the switch wired up my thing is do I adjust the distributor until that notch strikes the 2btdc on the tab or should I set the pulley on 2 btdc to start

@@moccasinmarine I also appreciate your help

Ok so you know more than you implied. With dynamic timing it doesn’t matter where the engine starts from. The timing light only triggers when the distributor fires the #1 cylinder. Loosen the distributor to where it rotates by hand but not to where it will turn on its own. Crank it up and let it idle around 600-800 rpm (doesn’t matter as long as it not over 1000 rpm) then use the timing light to watch the pulley notch light up under the timing tab. Depending on the year it could be 1 degree BTDC or 2 degrees ATDC (after TDC). Look for the timing setting on the flame arrestor sticker. If it won’t idle or fire up move the distributor around a little at a time until it fires up. Then start setting timing with the light. While you can rotate the distributor with it running with rubber gloves I recommend shutting down to rotate distributor. You can lose a finger, hand, or your life if you fall into engine after getting shocked. Once the timing marks line up to the correct timing shut down, tighten distributor, and check one last time. Timing to the exact number is important. Btw you start the engine and then connect the set timing tool. If it idles too slow speed it up with idle speed screw on carb. If the engine doesn’t slow down when set timing tool is connected to battery power then the timing tool is not making a connection to +12volts.

You have earlier heads that require adjustment. This video covers later model heads. The information is not wrong.

I have no idea what you’re asking me

Ignore this video. It is obsolete. The video below is currently the best way to wire the system. th-cam.com/video/YPNZbf4MWUo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Q7_BnsqdWubq9o4E

Mr. White, I have explained this as clearly and straight forward as I can. No other kit uses a GM module. The other kits are selling inferior modules. Most of them are truck modules that don’t work in a marine engine. I also got burned six times before I finally switched to GM modules exclusively. I stated this very clearly in the first video. You’ll need to switch to a GM module if you can find one.

Not unless you want to pay $700 for an msd crank trigger and msd ignition box. This is the second time you’ve asked about using this distributor with a carb. It can’t be done cheaply. You would be better off buying my Delco EST kit if this is for a marine engine. If it’s for a truck or car just use an old HEI distributor with vacuum advance.

Thanks for your help I will find a good used MSD box and trigger it for a marine engine and I need the space. Can’t use a tall distributor. Sorry if I asked the question too many times thank you.

You didn’t ask the question too many times. I just thought you didn’t understand my answer and I was making it clear that the answer wouldn’t change. But you didn’t explain why you needed a low profile distributor which changes the situation drastically. There are probably low profile distributors out there that have side post plug wires and have a magnetic reluctir pickup inside with centrifugal advance. If you find one a Ford Duraspark ignition module can fire the coil. This would a much cheaper way than a crank triggered MSD ignition.

Big no. There is nothing in that distributor to trigger the ignition with. You’d need an msd crank trigger to fire an MSD ignition box and then the flat top distributor could route the spark but that would be expensive.

It’s a lot more than a 96+ Vortec. Look up a 2010 Silverado 4.3 on RockAuto. I found a tensioner in the timing components. But your engine is getting into the later year options so don’t go by what I say. You’re going to have to get a service manual for your engine.

Text me at 17063583175. I have some tips for you

You misunderstood the tan blue wire purpose. It leads back to the negative side of the alarm horn. A tan blue wire goes to each alarm device (low oil pressure, high temperature, and low gear oil level). If you are reading ground on the tan blue with engine off it’s because you are reading ground through the oil pressure switch which does sound the horn with the key on engine off. The yellow wire on TBV is for the analog temperature sensor. The TBV not only uses temperature to turn on the over temperature alarm it also retards the spark timing. Why do you suspect the over temperature alarm is not working?

@@moccasinmarine A bit different setup on my boat (Mariah SX9 2003). The low oil pressure switch does not use the tan/blue wire. It seems to only provide a positive connection to the fuel pump when shorted. However, if you remove the ICM from the engine and check the resistance between the tan/blue and black terminals (ICM), you get almost zero. This would mean that the buzzer should work constantly, which seems incorrect.

I can provide an exact wiring diagram of my boat. iBoats have a respective topic. Can't insert a URL here.

@@antons7852 there are three oil pressure devices. One is the sender for the gauge in dash, one is for the fuel pump power under way and the third is the low oil pressure alarm. When you turn on the key the low oil pressure switch does turn on the alarm horn until you start the engine. All tan blue wires are paralleled in the harness so if you read one wire to ground you’ll read back to the junction and then to ground through the oil pressure switch. Send me the link to the wiring via text to 706-358-3175.

@@moccasinmarine messaged you in a whatsapp and email.

You NEVER go WOT on a brand new engine. You must keep it under 3000 rpm for the first 10 hours. Otherwise it will not break in properly.

At the 3:30 mark I point out the port exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger and at 3:40 mark I point out the starboard exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger.

Sealed power or CLEVITE 77 P series. I rarely use aluminum bearings even though GM factory bearings are aluminum. I have videos on the parts I use. th-cam.com/video/vR-mao6ZZX4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=joDRmlnI6dHZ6OzW

@@moccasinmarine how you feel about King hp bearings.

I only use top quality parts. The difference in cost isn’t worth the risk. I believe Engine Tech uses King bearings in their kits. I’m not impressed.