GLUE for wooden Shipmodeling
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- #olhabatchvarov #shipmodeling
What glue to use for shipmodeling, how to apply it and where to apply it - I share my own experience...
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⚓️TITEBOND II:
www.amazon.com...
⚓️THICK CA glue (Super Glue):
www.amazon.com...
⚓️THIN CA glue (Super Glue):
www.amazon.com...
⚓️All-Purpose Toluene-free Cement:
www.amazon.com...
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🔥This video has subtitles that you can translate into any language🔥
🔥Це відео має субтитри, які можна перекласти будь-якою мовою🔥
just love the detailed editing.
Thank you very much!
The most informative glue lesson I have seen to date!!
Thank you very much!
I developed an allergic reaction inside nostrils ( severe irritation ) due to cyanoacrilate vapors. When rigging to prevent irritation, I need to wear 3M respirator with filters designed to contain acid vapors. I strongly recommend to use it to prevent inhalation of harmful vapors that are expeled when CA reacts when drying.
Yes, it is a very toxic glue that also easily causes cataracts in the eyes. That's why I also work in glasses to protect my eyes...
Thanks for the warning! I knew vapours we're not good but didn't know it could damage the eyes.
Дуже корисне відео!!! Дякуємо.
Чекаємо детальне відео про фарбування кораблів
Дякую!
Я рада, що вам сподобалося!
Я вже маю окреме відео про фарбування і тонування - воно вкладене у кінцевій заставці або у картках зліва зверху...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Оля а клей titebond з червоною етикеткою добре для зклеювання чи ні? Бо я його використовую а там ще є з зеленою
Не пробувала такого! Якщо він теж водостійкий то можна не хвилюватися! Якщо зелений це ви маєте на увазі Titebind III то його взагалі можна нижче ватерлінії на реальних човнах використовувати...
@@OlhaBatchvarov подивився він тільки для внутрішніх і не водостійкий, куплю потім синій, але думаю що не розвалиться))
This is a Master model ship builder in her environment.
You, my dear lady, are a pleasure to watch.
Your techniques are so wonderful and I really enjoy viewing these magnificent demonstrations of the various aspects of modelling.
This has been most helpful on the different gules and their properties they have.
Thank you. And God bless you and your country. 🇺🇦🇺🇸
Thank you so much 😊
I'm glad you liked it!
Excellent explanation of the subject with strong visual proof
Як завжди прекрасна і цікава робота 💙💛, браво,Оля!!!бажаю творчого натхнення і успіху!!!
Щиро дякую!
Thank you for this video!! So informative. I really appreciate you showing the build and the difference glues being used. I don't feel as scared about picking a glue now.
My pleasure!
as always spectacular
Thank you so much 😀
A "Simple" vídeo that speaks volumes! Thank you
My pleasure!
О, даже наш, эстонский есть. В принципе, тот же ПВА, но водостойкий. Мы его использовали, когда я мебель делал.
Ето все водостойкие клея. Только в Европе ПВА стандартизированы как D3 (В3), а в США клас II. Они его приравнивают как D3 но пишут что например для ремонта настоящих яхт его надо использовать над ватрнлинией. А уже Titebind III можно и ниже ватернлинии... Но на моей первой модели построенной в очень влажном климате, через год начало рвать обшивку покрашенной модели, которую я клеила на ПВА D3, а детали склеенные на Titebind II вообще не отреагировали на влажность. Выходит что Titebond II, более устойчив чем ПВА D3 хоть их и прировняли к одинаковому класу водостойчивости...
@@OlhaBatchvarov спасибо за информацию. Я читал, что Titebond III тоже влаго, а не водостойкий, а у меня на полке комплект лежит, на который я хочу радиоуправление поставить и я всё мучался, подбирая клей для него.
Merci pour ce tableau et les conseils ...A+
Les colles d’autrefois étaient souvent à base d’os de poissons . J’en ai utilisé quand j’étais adolescent (il y a longtemps...) et cela tient toujours à l’heure actuelle ....et toujours solidarité avec l’Ukraine, amitiés.
Merci!
Outstanding video. Im new to model ship building and this answered so many questions.
I'm glad I could help you!
I love how informative this video is without you actually saying a word. Great video. I just watched your new one on the Viking longboat and was going to ask what glued you use for what and we’ll here it is. All the answers I needed. Perfect!!👍
I am glad you liked it!
Thanks!
Welcome!
Great video showing the different uses, strengths & weaknesses of each glue. I did want to say from my experience CA glue is easily reversible with use of a debonder.
Thank you!
Yes, I have a debonder for softening СA, but it leaves spots and it is not always possible to use it. For example for planks on thehull that are glued with PVA, you can apply a soldering iron pointwise and without destroying the adjacent planks - peel off only one plank and replace it...
It’s great to see which glue you use for various purposes! Thanks for sharing. Happy days and model on! 😎🇨🇦
Thank you!
I'm glad you liked it!
Excellent video Olha, very informative!
Glad you think so!
This is a very varied side in modelling. I build wood RC Planes. Many in that field swear by aliphatic and pva and epoxy and refuse to use CA at all regards it being brittle. Then you see guys build a plane nearly all with thin and thick CA and never get a issue!
Yes, CA has such a weak point, even from vibrations, the gluing can crumble... Some modelers build models from paper (cardboard) and impregnate them with superglue for launching on water. So the model turns out to be very light and seaworthy...
Thank you very much for this most informative video on different kinds of glue. I learned a lot new things watching this video.
Glad it was helpful!
This is great video for future reference. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
My pleasure!
Thanks a lot for this great overview and samples. The table with all the benefits is VERY helpful!! 🏆👍
My pleasure!
I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for the verry usefull info
My pleasure!
Nice to know, thanks.
My pleasure!
Very informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
As always, dedications and professionalism .
Thank you for your advice.
😀👍👍👍
My pleasure!
Master modeler. Love your work and vids. You make it look so easy. Greetings from Holland.
Thank you very much!
Sticky subject but very instructive.
The quality of your video editing is impressive and professional.
Glad you liked it!)))
Спасибо за показательный ролик.
Thank you so much beautiful little bee 🐝🐝🐝🐝
You are so welcome
Оля,посмотрел Ваше видео. Еще раз спасибо. Теперь появилось понимание по клеям. Они мне все конечно знакомы. Проффессионально занимаюсь изготовлением корпусной мебели на заказ. Теперь понятно какой в каких случаях использовать. Подписался на Ваш канал.
Тогда у вас опьІт по клеям еще больше чем у меня. Я тоже в свое врямя бегала в столярку подсматривать как мебель клеят и красят...
Very useful guide, thanks. Only one thing remains unclear for me: what is the main difference between titebond and pva. Their characteristics seem to be pretty similar, how do you choose one or another, and why? Why titebond for skeleton e.g. - and white glue for planking?
The main difference is the Color after drying. Yellowish Titebond is sometimes very visible when you glue small parts. Whereas PVA is transparent and almost invisible - the work becomes much more accurate...
that barge glue is like contact cement it stay soft, I don't know how you keep your hand looking so nice.
Whoops i also used the yellow aliphatic glue for the hull planking instead of white PVA. But im painting the hull too so it doesnt make much difference i guess? Im going to use the white PVA then for the deck planks, so no yellow residue will be visible.
your a very methodical builder, ive never thought females would build boats so I guess i'm wrong, you do loverly work and im picking up skills watching 👌
Thank you very much!
Parabens pela iniciativa deste video. Muito bem apresentado. Entendo que todas as colas para madeira são aplicaveis, sendo cada uma com sua finalidade. Areas grandes, pequenas, tipo de madeira, local de utilização. Ou seja cada cola em local especifico.
Obrigada!
Estou feliz que você gostou!
Olha, fantastic level of detail, really appreciated.
Any thoughts on TITEBOND ULTIMATE III
Very best regards Stanley
Thank you very much!
II is quite enough for the interior. From III you can already build real boats...
Olha excelentes vídeo, gracias por compartirlo 👌👌👌👌 🇲🇽.......
¡Gracias!
¡Me alegra que te guste!
Super tutorial.
Glad you think so!
@@OlhaBatchvarov As having a bad flu at the moment, I have the time to watch many of your vids.😉
Have a successful and good new year. Let's hope for better times. Unfriendly situation at the moment.🇺🇦
Yo uso cianocrilato para las partes que requieren pegamento instantáneo, pero casi siempre uso cola vinilica que es muy práctica para pegar todo tipo de maderas. Obviamente dejo pegar durante 24 horas
También uso silicona pero esta, necesita para pegar, al igual que la cola vinilica, un peso para que la parte a pegar quede bien pegada y más si es una parte curva
That's a lot of Pringles (can covers) Olha! 😆
In general, I completely use these packages from chips!)))) Lids for glue or paint, and tubes for planks of different thicknesses and widths...
Vídeo útil, prático, inspirador! Parabéns e Obrigado
Obrigada!
Estou feliz que você gostou!
Olha, muito interessante e prático.
Ótima esta ideia de detalhar o uso dos materiais de modelismo. Se você me permite gostaria de te sugerir uma matéria sobre os nós e costuras que você utiliza. Um grande abraço.
Obrigada!
Great tutorial, thanks 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, important information, but it is difficult to get the information visually only.
I think it will be much easier to get the information if the comments will be voiced.
(There is not my point of view only)
Thank you!
All descriptions and explanations are in subtitles so that viewers can translate it into any language... That's why at the beginning of the video I write and show a button that subtitles should be turned on!
@@OlhaBatchvarov yes, subtitles are good, but it is much better to watch and listen than watch and read.
I like to watch what are you doing, but the information in that video is different, it is sort of review. Audiovisual presentation of that type of information getting "digested" better! 😁
Thank you great review
Thanks for watching!
Велике спасибі!!! 👍👍👍
Будь ласка!
I think Puiduliim is something like Vicol. have you used it? It's avaiable in 1kg quantities for +-5$, water based, used for wood and laminating chipboards etc.
I have never seen Viсol.
Puiduliim is a very strong water-resistant glue. Its price is approximately 10-12 $ for 0,75 liters. And it becomes transparent after drying...
@@OlhaBatchvarov I think it's the same, just diffrent brand names.
Vicol also become transparent, water resistant, a little elastic/rubery after drying, can be heated to cure faster or to soften dry glue. Doesn't smell.
It's bitter in taste [yes i checked :D ]
Great video, each glue has its strengths and weaknesses. Have you used a few spots of thick CA glue to hold parts together while the CVA glue dries?
Thank you!
I'm glad you liked it!
I prefer to clamp the parts for 10-12 hours instead of spots with CA glue...
I read that CA glue is not good for rigging because it makes the lines brittle and in time they can come apart.
Quite the opposite. Superglue has a chemical reaction with polyester - the rope is sealed (melts). Yes, CA is absolutely not suitable for cotton ropes.
P.S. Try to take a spool of thread and pour CA on it, once the glue sets - touch it (but be careful, it can be very hot, in some cases you can see evaporation due to the chemical reaction).
👍😊🥰
Please tell me why you spread and scrape thin CA glue on your decks? Thank you Olha!
I only imitate metal nails of the smallest diameter. After scraping, the glue only stays in the holes (and as a bonus, it fills the gaps between the planks too)…
Great job.
Overall very good. I could make a few nitpicks... You can use debonder on CA.... I might add, the thick CA, it kind of dries initially, but it's still a little soft. If you need to shape it or file it, THAT is the time. After 24 hours, that's like sanding a rock... good luck with that.... If you use original Titebond, I have had good luck steaming that apart... Titebond II and III, that stuff is tough. I wouldn't use the word "removeable", unless you have some other methods.... Which I would love to hear about in a future video.
I also feel 2-part epoxy most definitely has a place in modeling, and apparently you don't use that at all??? Or it just didn't make the cut in this video???
I know "serious" modelers will give a lot of pushback on polyurethane glue... I like it for some things. Gives a lot of "open" time... And, where Titebond wants to get "grabby" on tight fits, the polyurethane is almost "greasy", the parts will slide together perfectly, even if the fit is a little tight.... Not that I use a LOT of Polyurethane glue, but for certain jobs, I love it.... all glue has pluses & minuses..... I assume you do not use ployurethane glue??? Or, that didn't make the cut???
Anyways, don't be put off by my nitpicks, please. Overall, this is a great video. Very nice job.
Thank you!
I have a debonder for softening СA, but it leaves spots and it is not always possible to use it. For example for planks on thehull that are glued with PVA, you can apply a soldering iron pointwise and without destroying the adjacent planks - peel off only one plank and replace it...
As for 2-part epoxy, it is very popular among modelers who make models for sailing on water. I use it very rarely, for example to simulate water with models in a bottle...
Polyurethane glue is too complex and powerful, but no one forbids you to use it...
@@OlhaBatchvarov You do a great job. You are a very fine artist.
I see you sensed right away, "for models that are sailing on water". Yes, you are correct, probably 70% of what I build is radio control models....
I still though, those rubber cement type products fail on me every time. I can just about set my clock on when the customer will call and say something fell off or failed or broke on the model.... I'm done with rubber cement.
I am very intrigued by your desire to possibly take apart the model.... Maybe that's part of being a museum quality builder. I personally am looking to glue it together, and it will still be solid long after I have passed away..... Heh heh heh!
To be honest, I really like the thick CA, Titebond III, epoxy, and polyurethane glue. that's 93% of what I use.
I'm sure you will be horrified, but I also use hot glue sometimes.... Before you poo-poo that, I have some flat reflectors, that I glued to the round downtubes on the front of my Motorcycle.... I just made a big blob of hot glue, smooshed it onto the downtube, and held it for a few minutes by hand.... That was 14 years ago. They are still there, still perfect. So, blasting freeway highway winds, screaming hot summer days, super cold fall nights, rainstorms, all of it... 14 years, still fine. I wish I was still in as good of shape as I was 14 years ago. Hahahah! Hot glue, also, does not seem to care if it is wet... Of course, that means nothing to you, but in an R/C situation, that matters a lot....
I'm sure you'd be horrified, but... Okay, NOT that these models were on your level. They were not. Your models are SO good, they are off the scale. BUT, I have seen stuff that was up there, really really nice models. I saw a guy put a gorgeous USS Constitution model in the pond, and run it.... Even ME, I was like, dude, stop it, that's like TOO nice to run as an R/C Model.... Obviously the perfect "scale" aspect was not there, the Constitution had an electric motor, to make it sail.... He told me later he was very careful to only run it on water on very calm days... If it was windy, he would either lose control of the model, or the wind would flip it over, with all the full scale sails on it....
Thank you for your reply, that is very kind of you. I love your work. I love what you do. I love your videos. Besides being a genius fine scale modeler, you are a genius videographer and filmmaker, which is quite an impressive set of skills. I learn a lot from your videos. I love to watch really good techs work... It gives you a lot of ideas... Even if it's only 1 thing here or there, it's like, wow, look how they do that... Look at how smart that is... Why didn't I think of that???
So, great job. I look forward to your videos. Best Regards.
Olha, is the brand of PVA glue you use Puiduliim available in the USA and if not what available brand would you say is equivalent? Also what brand are your forceps? They seem very sturdy and are still excellent for fine work. Is a rope walk machine available for sale, also a seizing machine? Thanks for your excellent videos.
This is PVA glue with the European D3 standard, and the analogue is Type II here. I once bought 1406 ROBERTS at Home Depot, it says right on the bottle that it is equivalent to D3. Tweezers from the kit that came with the soldering iron, but I also saw them sold separately on Amazon. My ropewalk is self-made. I do seizings with tweezers...
@@OlhaBatchvarov with your info about the glue I did a little search for more equivalent glue products to the puiduliim. I was concerned that the specifications under 1406 Robert’s said it was milky white when cured. I wanted clear. Eurobond is a type II D3 glue and is available at Home Depot and dries clear.
Model expo has a rope walk. It’s a bit pricey though. I’d just make one.
Hi Olha, all of your videos excellent! What do you use to reverse the holding of the pva glues?
Thank you very much!
In most cases, I use a soldering iron. I think I showed some examples in the video FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions). You can quickly find it on the main page of the channel...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Thanks Olha. I've read that other modelers use alcohol or acetone to soften the glue. I'll have to try your method next time.
Also Olha, do plan on a video for the finishing of the Smith shallop? I think it may be my next build.
Con el cianocrilato, antes de aplicarlo humedece con agua y verás como si pega
Клейёво!!!
Awesome video! I'm wondering if you know if any of the glues, specifically CA glue, becomes brittle and loses adhesion over time? How do the glues hold up after many years?
CA glue is fragile from the beginning (very strong in tension but does not withstand side impacts and vibrations), that is why I prefer PVA!
@@OlhaBatchvarov very good information. Do you know what kind of glue was used for the old models made hundreds of years ago? Was it a type of pva? Do you know how pva holds up over the years?
@@diyhometheaterguy I believe it was glues made from animal products
Ну вот, разнообразие клев, а то "староверы" кричат в каждый патефон, что только пва и казеин, для настоящего судомоделиста)
А что за казеин? Ето тот клей которЬІй варить надо?
@@OlhaBatchvarov варят глютиновый клей, там жилы и кости.казеиновый делают из творога)))) (только что прочитал) ))) но он очень крепкий.
@@LunaDude43 но тоже воды не любит, и вонючий 😁
Спасибо за видео. Что за тонировка была нанесена на палубу перед циклеванием?
Пожалуйста!
Там только масло бЬІло на образцах, для реставрации мебели с ореховим оттенком...
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😀😀