Buzz Ricksons Chinos - 1945 and Original Spec
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2023
- This is my review of the Buzz Ricksons chinos I own and love. I have the 1945 Military Chino in Beige (button fly, 10" leg) and the Original Spec Chino in Olive (zipper fly, 9" leg). These represent fantastic value, and the product is very solid for any price point. They are repro chinos, so may not be what you want if you need a more modern aesthetic or the benefits of modern construction methods/materials. The fabric is decidedly casual, as it creases easily, but can make a fit classier than jeans. I sized true to waist, and that worked perfectly for my slender build. Ordering from Hinoya is very easy and hassle free, even for those who live in the US.
Affiliate Link:
hinoya.shop/en/collections/bu...
CHAPTERS:
1945 Chino - 2:55
Original Spec Chino - 12:53
(Below measurements may not reflect current batch measurements of these chinos, as I bought them from a batch several years ago)
Buzz Rickson 1945 Chino
Metal Button Fly
Size 31
9.5” hem
16” waist
10.5” knee
12.5” thigh
12” front rise
16” back rise
27" inseam (hemmed after hot soak)
Buzz Rickson Original Spec Chino
Zipper Fly
Size 32
Waist 16.5”
Front rise 12”
Back rise 16”
Thigh 12”
Knee 9.5”
Hem 9”
Inseam 28.5” (hemmed after hot soak)
Just got back from Hinoya. My favorite shop in Tokyo along with Iron Heart
Oh that ROCKS!
Thanks for your thoughts on these. Coincidentally, this morning I changed to my summer wardrobe, and brought out all my chinos, as always checking again if they still fit me 😅 Funny thing is I own the 45s in two colours, same size 30, and the fit is much roomier on my beige ones compared to the camel. No idea if it’s a production run thing, or something else. I think of these pants as spring/summer pants (which unfortunately is a rather short time window here in Belgium), and find it hard to style them with my winter stuff. Personally, I try to get inspiration from both the US 50s look, and also the Japanese ‘little old man in his chinos and tropical shirt’ look, which I think is so iconic. As for footwear, it’s generally Chucks with these. I agree regarding the fit pics on Hinoya, though having said that they do generally give me a good indication of the size. May I also suggest Rodeo Japan, their prices are somewhat higher than Hinoya’s, but they stock brands Hinoya doesn’t (and vice versa), and their service is excellemt.
All very interesting haha! Crazy that the two chinos fit differently even though they’re the same ones in the same size in a different color. Your style sounds very cool and relaxed 😎 Good to know about that other store in Japan. I’ll look them up.
Your channel has been a godsend! I've had difficulties finding youtubers covering vintage styled clothing, that isn't just formal wear or actually vintage pieces. Your reviews show everything, on a person, in motion, and I really appreciate that! Thank you.
So glad you like the format! I really want to help with good reviews! If you ever have suggestions on pieces of clothing you would want me to review, let me know!
@@thevintagefuture6567 I am looking for more button up shirts in a vintage style. Sugar Cane seems to have some neat designs, but if you know any more that'd be cool to see reviewed.
On that note, I've recently been on a kick because of the Fallout TV show. It has some great vintage fashion, and it's making me think of brands that have that sort of style. Fallout is kind of weird in that it has a mish-mash of styles from the Great Depression all the way to the 60s. If you could cover formal, casual, and workwear in those classic styles, I'd be very appreciative!
@@stealthiestboy Fallout seems awesome, I'll hafta check out the wardrobe from that! How vintage do you wanna get with your button up shirts? And which decades? Monsavais & Co is very vintage for 1920s-30s sorta stuff.....for 40s Buzz Ricksons or Sugar Cane....Mister Freedom is a solid bet for a ton of that stuff....Or if you want more modern but vintage inspired, Freenote, Warehouse, Dehen sorts of brands are good.
@@thevintagefuture6567 Anything between the 30s and 60s really. There are some things I like from the 70s and 80s, but for the purpose of narrowing it down I'll just say the mid-century. If you want examples of Fallout's clothing aesthetics, I can provide you examples from both the games, promotional stuff, and show. It probably isn't exactly "vintage", but lots of the aesthetics are supposed to lean that way. I'll try dividing it into formal, casual, and workwear. Though there's also plenty of greaser/mobster kind of stuff in there so I might also make a compilation of that too if you're interested in seeing all of it.
Turns out it's a lot more complicated than I thought. There are outfits that do look suitably mid-century, but a good amount of the stuff on offer is either murder-hobo, mad max, or looks off. I found that many outfits look weird cause the fits/proportions on the characters in the older games is conforming to the body, due to the limitations of what they were working with. This results in something that doesn't quite look right. So lots of outfits ends up looking too tight, almost like a bodysuit. This is especially a problem in their game from 2015 which uses a newer engine with different character models. Interestingly enough, the older games from 2008 and 2010 don't have that problem. Don't know why, but the outfits actually retain the baggier/blocky silhouette of the outfits.
The concept artwork helps a lot in conveying what they were trying to go for. Adam Adamowicz, may he rest in peace, did some really good artwork, and drew the vintage styling you'd be more likely to recognize.
I'll still try looking for examples from the show as I know it had plenty of stuff to work with, and was done by real people as opposed to dated 3d graphics.
You got a relaxed style🏋♀
came for the buzz rickson review, stayed for the life wisdom. Im glad YT recommended me your channel. Good video overall!
Side note: I love the 1942 model more than the 1945. My bigger thighs and calves go well with the 1942. Tried a vintage pair of 1945 vintage chinos and it didnt fit the way I wanted. I did not like how the shrinkage for BR was over exaggerated. It does not shrink like crazy. the 1942 goes well with almost everything and youre not really limited to what shoes you wear with em.
Glad you like the video! Check out some of the other videos and lemme know what you think - I always love feedback.
And your thoughts on the different years of chinos are well said. I've been loving the 45s, but I have a friend who has the 42s and they're great. Summer is coming, and I'll be breaking these out a lot more. They're one of the pants that stays comfortable and breathable even in hot weather.
@@thevintagefuture6567I literally kept my pant rotation to a minimum. I only literally wear the buzz chinos in black and beige and 2-3 pairs of raw denim. I hardly go to stonewash pairs anymore but that will change soon.
Love your channel man, love the fade updates, it’d be cool if you did a Q&A (if you haven’t already) I’m sure tons of people have questions to ask you. I’d love to see a redwing review if you haven’t done one already. Specifically on the moc toe
@@_calvinkao I should totally do a QnA! And I've been wanting to grab some Red Wing mocs, the 877 maybe; perhaps that will happen and I can do a review. Thanks!.....Your pant rotation sounds killer!
@@thevintagefuture6567 high praise coming from you!
I’ve got a Buzz Ricksons Peacoat that’s amazing, it’s a world war repo with melton wool and corduroy pocket lining. It might be a bit too warm for where you’re at though. In regards to finding the right fit on clothes I think the shoulder measurement is more important that anything else but everyone seems to focus on the chest measurement. I generally try and get as close to 18” in the shoulders as I can for my shirts.
Wow, that coat sounds like it ROCKS. They make such great pieces. But definitely too warm for California, as you say 😂 Interesting what you say about the shoulder measurement. What I do now is size off whichever one is closest to being off, if that makes sense. Like, if the chest is fine, but the shoulder is too narrow, I may go the next size up to fix the shoulder, or vice versa. Maybe I’m doing it wrong, but it has seemed to work so far.
it's like the first phase you aware of style and start upgrading your pants you would pick something trendy, and then you would step up into something that is objectively better in your eyes and also everyone would easily agree, and then you join online forum and you get bombarded and immersed into this new niche of style and it's sub genres, and you "upgrade" again into such fit that everyone in the forum would shower you with thumbs up and everyone else in real life and even yourself kind of unsure about it, personally I will follow my own gut feeling, usually our first reaction is the most honest anyway.
I think you perfectly described how this works haha- I’m now settled on like a 8.25”-8.5” leg opening, which is classic but not extreme.
Super cool guy
Bravestar also has some amazing chinos, they aren’t repro or anything tho.
Another great vid! Still wanna see a vid on your music gear! Maybe I’m alone in that, but I’d like to see what your rig is lol
Oh yeah! I forgot about this, sorry haha. Dude, totally! I’ll put this on the list. I run pretty simple, but still happy to share.
@@thevintagefuture6567 diggin the vids as is still, I dug the 1945’s on you fyi haha.
Thanks haha! Maybe I’ll wear them more frequently then lol
Great video mate, i’ve just bought a pair from Hinoya. I was thinking they had more or less the same fitting of my mccoy hence I bought the same size… i was wrong… apparently they run one size smaller. I guess they are unwashed. How much do they shrink after the first wash?
They barely shrink in a hot wash, but they do a little bit.
what size did you buy and whats the true waist measurement? Thanks!
How do these compare to Freenote Deck Pants, if you've ever owned those?
I’ve had two pairs of Freenote Deck pants for the last year or more. The Freenote pants are super casual compared to the Buzz. More like an outdoor utility pant. Very floppy material. They’re great. I should do a review soon.
Looking forward to it!
What's that olive jacket U're wearing , Dave? Thanks for the Hinoya link!
That’s a Patagonia Farrier Shirt haha…I love it!
@@thevintagefuture6567 Awesome shirt, bro!
Thanks, George! I love it!
You said you have a 33" waist, so did you get a tag size 33 for the original spec?
The size chart on Hinoya says the size 33 for the original spec has a 30.7" waist which doesn't seem right to me because the Son of a Stag sizing chart says the size 33 has a 33.5" waist.
What tag size did you get for the original spec and what did the waist measure to be?
For reference:
I have a 32.5-33" natural waist (measured between belly button and ribcage)
I am 6' tall and 170 lbs
I usually prefer around a 13" thigh measurement due to the size of my thighs
Pants with a 32" waist that stretches to a 33" fit be best
My waist is 33". I'm 5'10", 170lbs. I got size 32 in the Original Spec. That should work for you too, but I got mine a couple years ago, so it's possible it's a new batch with a slightly altered pattern. I could measure mine and get back to you if you want? I got these, hot washed them to get all the shrinkage out (there wasn't much, but there was definitely some), then hemmed them.
@@thevintagefuture6567 Thanks or the insight! I'm gonna order the 32 in the original spec. Did you also get the same tag size for the 1945 chino? I'm thinking about getting that one but not sure
I got a 31 in the 1945. BUT, with that one I know for sure they changed the whole sizing chart recently, with the new batch. Unless you need the room in the thighs (if you have larger thighs than my pencil thin thighs haha), with all the Buzz chinos I think the best bet is to size based off the waist measurement. They don't really stretch, but they do shrink a hair, so when in doubt, size UP, and then you can shrink them and/or use a belt.
Also, I trust Hinoya's sizing charts more than Son of a Stag, for what it's worth.
@@thevintagefuture6567 It'd be great if you could share the measurements. I have exactly the same question and was wondering if I should get size 33 or 34. Besides Hinoya and the Son of Stag measurements being very different (Hinoya doesn't share how they take measurements, which makes me very suspicious of their measurement taking ), I also noticed that Hinoya's measurements are substantially different ( ~2" in the waist) than any other website currently selling the original spec including History Preservation. I just don't want to buy pants that are either 2 or 3 sizes too big or too small.Thanks!
No problem! Here are the measurements for the 1945 chino and also the OS:
Buzz Rickson 1945 Chino
Metal Button Fly
Size 31
9.5” hem
16” waist
10.5” knee
12.5” thigh
12” front rise
16” back rise
27" inseam (hemmed after hot soak)
Buzz Rickson Original Spec Chino
Zipper Fly
Size 32
Waist 16.5”
Front rise 12”
Back rise 16”
Thigh 12”
Knee 9.5”
Hem 9”
Inseam 28.5” (hemmed after hot soak)
Keep in mind, the current sizing chart for these chinos is different than it was when I ordered. Perhaps the measurements changed with the new batch? Anyhow, I think you can trust Hinoya's measurements, cuz both my chinos and the pair of Sugar Cane '47s I bought were exactly as ordered. I think the measurement difference between the websites might be merely due to batching.
They weren’t that baggy on you tbh.
Thanks…self-perception is powerful I suppose. Haha
@@thevintagefuture6567 Yeah, the 45 looks like a slim straight. U need the 42 fit , Dave! LOL!
😂
I thought the 45s looked super cool!
Super cool guy