This guy costs around $1900, however, there are over $2500 in rebates and incentives to purchase and install one of these! You almost can’t afford not to buy one!
@3:45 I noticed you didn’t remove the blue plug from the lower fitting. Obviously, you went back and removed it. Go vid. I’ve always wondered about the details.
So, that is a heat trap ‘nipple’ , it stays. It’s supposed to keep the hot water from transferring heat to the cold water intake. It’s an energy efficiency thing I guess.
@@thedustybuilderDepends where you live and how air-tight and insulated you can make your home. Carrier and Lennox now have systems that can keep most of their efficiency down to -5*F. That extends their applicability to the entire mainland US and in worst case scenarios requiring an electric or gas 2nd stage heat. But that also depends on the home’s Manual J calculation. Might need it, might not. There are passive homes in New England. It’s not just a southern thing.
Also, today’s heat pumps have a much more level coefficient of performance curve. We went from a 5 ton unit to a 4 ton and gained like 12-18 thousand btu at 25 or 20*F. We have no need for the backup electric resistance heating strips anymore. Unless we have an ice age, they were a waste of money. And they are expensive. We have 2, should have only got one.
@@causarumcognitio My house is too drafty and gas is pretty cheap in my area (Metro Detroit). I’ve been working on air sealing and insulation, but frankly it’s still uncomfortable in the winter
@@causarumcognitio do you have a newer home? Did you get a manual J done? When I did a new build I was surprised a manual J wasn’t something that was typically done. Even though my house was well insulated with a blower door test at 1.5ach, I was sized for a larger unit.
Ah yes, forgot to mention that. It's in the back of the unit, drains to my sump. It isn't producing much condensate because my basement is pretty dry in the winter. Should ramp up in the spring when the humidity increases.
Only made a few mistakes. I don't recommend using teflon tape with pipe dope. Problem is DIY's think its a sealant when in fact it is a lubricant. NPT (pipe thread) is a tapered thread, requires a tight connection to seal. Use one or the other, not both. It's overkill. Good habit of capping unused gas line, (required in the UMC, (uniform mechanical code.) When soldering, (temperatures under 840 deg.) the flux should not extend to the end. The inside of the coupling needs cleaning, and then apply the flux missing about 1/4" from the end. Flux, (is caustic, that is how it works) is used to clean the pipe and stop air from getting to the soldered joint. The other failure is the heated air in the basement, being used to heat water. The air in the basement has to come from somewhere, so if the venting pulls air to the outdoors, then the basement will require replacement air. Ifl the basement floor, bottom plates and doors, are not sealed, that air comes from the house and outdoors. The most expensive air is the treated air from the house.
Hey man, thanks for watching! I use pipe dope and tape because I have seen others plumbers do this. -I did clean the inside of the fitting, sorry if I missed showing that. -The heat pump does not vent to the outside, it is not creating negative pressure. It acts like a portable air conditioner in the basement…… it draws air in, transfers heat to the water, then blows the same cooler air into the basement. Great idea in the summer, but you are right, I’m stealing hard earned heat in the winter 😬
@@thedustybuilder I like to think of it as repurposing some of the excess heat in the basement. In our case, we don't spend a ton of time down there, but in the summer having it be a bit cooler is a plus, and in the winter our boiler makes the finished half of the basement too warm anyway. Sure, I could install a smaller radiator down there, but what a pain!
@@causarumcognitio I’m willing to hear you out, not sure what you just said. It’s a water heater, not a space ship. I installed it per the manufacturer instructions and to code
@@thedustybuilder Yeah, I’m sorry, some of this looks like a glitch happened in writing it I’m deleting those comments. But you shouldn’t have a drain over the intake and exhaust of a heat pump water heater, if it leaks or you need to use it the water could go right into it, even though there’s an internal drain pan that could theoretically drain a slight leak, it’s just way too precarious, there are a lot of electronics in the top part that could fry, besides that, you make it harder to run ventilation in the future. If you buy some insulated flex-duct from Lowes or Home Depot it’ll soften the harshest frequency band by like 5 or 10 decibels and ventilating a heat pump water heater can also even out temperature differentials. That valve looked like it was right over the intake/exhaust of the heat pump. It should have been pointed somewhere else if it were even to be included. If you pull the pressure relief lever by hand it will open, usually they even have a locked open position so it’s clearly not solely for pressure relief.
@@causarumcognitio you have a valid point. I left that valve from the old water heater because it was handy to ‘burp’ the tank when I drained it. Probably not the best spot, point taken!
thank you for your video. I am considering upgrading to this and the video helps.
@@chrism8812 it’s been a few months and I really like it. It’s is noisy though so the basement is a good spot
Dusty, thanks for the video. I’m not familiar with this style of water heater. What would one expect to pay for such a unit?
This guy costs around $1900, however, there are over $2500 in rebates and incentives to purchase and install one of these! You almost can’t afford not to buy one!
@3:45 I noticed you didn’t remove the blue plug from the lower fitting. Obviously, you went back and removed it. Go vid. I’ve always wondered about the details.
So, that is a heat trap ‘nipple’ , it stays. It’s supposed to keep the hot water from transferring heat to the cold water intake. It’s an energy efficiency thing I guess.
Are you going to get a heat pump for space heating next?
If I built a new home….. possibly. But my home is too old and drafty, I don’t think a heat pump could keep up
@@thedustybuilderDepends where you live and how air-tight and insulated you can make your home. Carrier and Lennox now have systems that can keep most of their efficiency down to -5*F. That extends their applicability to the entire mainland US and in worst case scenarios requiring an electric or gas 2nd stage heat. But that also depends on the home’s Manual J calculation. Might need it, might not. There are passive homes in New England. It’s not just a southern thing.
Also, today’s heat pumps have a much more level coefficient of performance curve. We went from a 5 ton unit to a 4 ton and gained like 12-18 thousand btu at 25 or 20*F. We have no need for the backup electric resistance heating strips anymore. Unless we have an ice age, they were a waste of money. And they are expensive. We have 2, should have only got one.
@@causarumcognitio My house is too drafty and gas is pretty cheap in my area (Metro Detroit). I’ve been working on air sealing and insulation, but frankly it’s still uncomfortable in the winter
@@causarumcognitio do you have a newer home? Did you get a manual J done? When I did a new build I was surprised a manual J wasn’t something that was typically done. Even though my house was well insulated with a blower door test at 1.5ach, I was sized for a larger unit.
So a heat pump comes pre installed? Also are all heat pump heaters electric?
Yes and yes. I’m not sure the manufacturer, but there are even heat pump water heaters that are 120 volt
Where is the condensate line?
Ah yes, forgot to mention that. It's in the back of the unit, drains to my sump. It isn't producing much condensate because my basement is pretty dry in the winter. Should ramp up in the spring when the humidity increases.
Nice video
@@nicholasjames1158 Thanks man!
How noisy? Db meter?
The ol i phone is telling me 70 decibels
How big of a tank?
@@mrkraymnd 50 gallons, it’s been doing well for our family of 5
Bleeding the air out can just be done by openning the pressure relief valve. Adding valves is unnecessary.
@@causarumcognitio the valves were already there. They were handy to have
You don’t refer the unit as a “ hot “ water heater because there is no reason to heat hot water. It’s simply a water heater.
You are correct….I will listen for this now!
very nice (borat voice)
Chenquieh!!
I thought I saw 120v units or am I going crazy?
@@Methodical2 no, she’s 220. 10 gauge with a 30 amp breaker. Apparently they do make 120volt heat pump water heaters these days.
AO Smith hpv80-200, thats the 120v one, hard to find one and they're quite pricey
@@Ticonderoga12 I have heard that as well …… almost a boutique water heater 😬
Only made a few mistakes. I don't recommend using teflon tape with pipe dope. Problem is DIY's think its a sealant when in fact it is a lubricant. NPT (pipe thread) is a tapered thread, requires a tight connection to seal. Use one or the other, not both. It's overkill. Good habit of capping unused gas line, (required in the UMC, (uniform mechanical code.) When soldering, (temperatures under 840 deg.) the flux should not extend to the end. The inside of the coupling needs cleaning, and then apply the flux missing about 1/4" from the end. Flux, (is caustic, that is how it works) is used to clean the pipe and stop air from getting to the soldered joint. The other failure is the heated air in the basement, being used to heat water. The air in the basement has to come from somewhere, so if the venting pulls air to the outdoors, then the basement will require replacement air. Ifl the basement floor, bottom plates and doors, are not sealed, that air comes from the house and outdoors. The most expensive air is the treated air from the house.
Hey man, thanks for watching! I use pipe dope and tape because I have seen others plumbers do this.
-I did clean the inside of the fitting, sorry if I missed showing that.
-The heat pump does not vent to the outside, it is not creating negative pressure. It acts like a portable air conditioner in the basement…… it draws air in, transfers heat to the water, then blows the same cooler air into the basement. Great idea in the summer, but you are right, I’m stealing hard earned heat in the winter 😬
@@thedustybuilder I like to think of it as repurposing some of the excess heat in the basement. In our case, we don't spend a ton of time down there, but in the summer having it be a bit cooler is a plus, and in the winter our boiler makes the finished half of the basement too warm anyway. Sure, I could install a smaller radiator down there, but what a pain!
@@tchrapko sounds like the perfect scenario to me! I like how it dehumidifies the basement, makes it much more comfortable
Check with your tax preparer about tax credit. If you don’t have enough income you may not be eligible for full tax credit.
Good tip!
This is a bad plumbing design, if you install one of these like I have, this is bad, don’t copy his plumbing.
@@causarumcognitio if I may…. What would you change?
Americsns shoukd assume rhag the discretionsies in the are communist. They qill soon turn communist or Commie.
@@causarumcognitio I’m willing to hear you out, not sure what you just said. It’s a water heater, not a space ship. I installed it per the manufacturer instructions and to code
@@thedustybuilder Yeah, I’m sorry, some of this looks like a glitch happened in writing it I’m deleting those comments. But you shouldn’t have a drain over the intake and exhaust of a heat pump water heater, if it leaks or you need to use it the water could go right into it, even though there’s an internal drain pan that could theoretically drain a slight leak, it’s just way too precarious, there are a lot of electronics in the top part that could fry, besides that, you make it harder to run ventilation in the future. If you buy some insulated flex-duct from Lowes or Home Depot it’ll soften the harshest frequency band by like 5 or 10 decibels and ventilating a heat pump water heater can also even out temperature differentials. That valve looked like it was right over the intake/exhaust of the heat pump. It should have been pointed somewhere else if it were even to be included. If you pull the pressure relief lever by hand it will open, usually they even have a locked open position so it’s clearly not solely for pressure relief.
@@causarumcognitio you have a valid point. I left that valve from the old water heater because it was handy to ‘burp’ the tank when I drained it. Probably not the best spot, point taken!
Junk im sticking to old and my indirect
Perhaps…. Time will tell. So far I like it and I’m looking forward to seeing how it works as a dehumidifier
its not junk
@@thedustybuilder I didnt realize this was a small channel was recommended on my samsung tv home page. Upvoted and subbed
@@eddwinnas oh cool, thanks!