Hi John! When I got my '04 I had both keys but only 1 fob. I went on eBay, found what I thought was a refurbished fob for only $15. When I received it, turns out to be a brand new aftermarket that was a dead ringer for the OEM fob save for the fact that it didn't have the growler embossed on it. It also came with full written instructions on how to reprogram both fobs (you have to do both to add a new one) and don't you know, it actually worked first time!
Thanks for that @flyurway It may have been a very long time ago, but if the same product is still on eBay. Copy a link and share it with us via these comments. Stay safe pal👍
Hi John, loved the "apart from the battery" strapline at the beginning. Here's my personal score (2005 car)... 1) Cup holder: no breakage yet, but that's because they're rubbish so I don't use it. 2) Dipping view mirror: still OK so far. 3) Air Vents: broken (must re-watch your video and fix them). 4, 5 & 6) Plastic trim: All in one piece but I do have a moulding that's dropped off and I can't seem to find where it's cone from! 7) Key Fob: both on their last legs. Again, I need to re-watch your video on how to clean/repair them. 8) Secret key hole: gave mine a clean after I saw your original video on the subject, so all good. 9) Headlight condensation: nothing too serious yet. 10) Siren: no issues yet. 11) Timing chains: not relevant due to age of car. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 & 18) All good so far. Sounds like I've got lots of issues to look forward to! I would suggest adding ... Footwell plates rotting, due to those production line spigots not being removed. Need to change gearbox oil. Sticking radio aerial. Heater/aircon problems. Excellent video. Sorry I couldn't watch live.
I just bought a console armrest from the UK to USA a few weeks ago. Looks MUCH better than the cup holder version and it's like new! Besides no DRINKING in the Jaguar!
Like you I live in the USA the cup holders are pathetic and you could never get a BIG GULPPER in one of those BUTTT NO FOOD or DRINK in any car it's not a cafe.
Oh I've sat in a McD's parking lot and chowed down a burger, but those cup holders are the worst - but whadaya expect for a $89,000 car, right? Where do I find one of those armrests?
Hi John, Another excellent video, especially for newcomers. I have been very lucky with my 2004 XK8 only had to fit (#10) a new alarm sounder and #14 (had three of those!). HOWEVER, I have just had my brake switch fail (actually the cruise control switch part of it), which gives a 'Check rear lights/ No cruise control' warning come up on the message centre. I found the solution on Richard Astley's channel. Just got to get my soldering iron out now to fix it.
Thanks John. Here's one for XKR (x100) owners. I've heard of a number of people who ripped their oil cooler off going over relatively small bumps. That was about the first thing I did. I was lucky and found a new cooler for only $400. The oil cooler is mounted pretty low and hangs from 2 rubber blocks which are bolted below 2 tabs welded to the anti-sway bar. If you remount the cooler, bolting the rubber blocks above the tabs and the cooler above the blocks that will raise everything up about 2 inches. Of course I also had druppy nose from the original worn out shock mounts which didn't help. ;-)
For anyone who is struggling with their key fob...I fixed my key fob with standard kitchen aluminium foil cut and glued on the worn graphite/carbon contacts. It works perfectly and it is extremely cheap! I fixed it last year and it still works fine.
Thanks for sharing. It does work well for those with nimble fingers and good eyes. I've had a few comment that its impossible to work with such tiny bits of foil without glueing them to your fingers😁👍😁
I've watched your videos from the start. I'm the caretaker (5 years plus now) of a 2007 XK Convertible, 1 of 97 built, in Winter Gold, 56000 miles on the clock. I do car shows with it and drive it. love the car! Other than changing oil, tires, and battery, Zero things to fix, All original. Everything works! I drive it and enjoy it.
Thank you so much for your videos! I feel lucky that since I bought my 1998 XK8 a year ago (85.000 miles) I only experienced the following (and still minor) issues you rightly mentionned: Rear View Mirror Seat hinge cover Boot Keyhole Headlight condensation Water Pump (+ thermostat), this one a more serious one, wishing that other things were fixed before I bought it (do not think so...), and waiting for more things to break and be fixed thanks to your channel... Love this car by the way!
yes all of these I've had my 1997 xk8 from new the biggest was the gearbox which also needed a new torque converter at 100,000 and the hood fluid changing well done
Thank you very much for a most informative video, with a good, clear and relaxed voice and no annoying background music. I am about to buy a ‘97 XK8 coupe and will try to check all 18 items. Question : Do you also have a video on the up/down action of side windows and possible water leaks between glass and rubber weather strip? Thanks for sharing any info on this issue as well.
Great reminder John, thanks. Another one where ageing plastic is to blame is the thermostat tower on older cars - and also the ashtray cover in the centre console where the hinges break
Great video. I'm an avid watcher of your channel, and have seen the (separate) original videos pointing out the potential XK8/XKR issues. But, it is nice to have them grouped into one video. Thanks for the reminder!
The Irony is Nev, I suspect you like me quite enjoy the fixing. Im Odd. Its probably why I admire Toyota's so much, but will probably never own one. Alfa's on the other hand🤔🤣
Bang on John! I've had at least a third of these crop up. A lot of mine are due largely to aged plastics but not helped by some gorilla action by what I believe to be " not very careful" mechanics. My centre console frame had lost all but one attaching hole, J gate cover had lost all four tabs, and so it goes on. Fortunately I've managed to repair and or replace most of it and I have to thank you in particular for your excellent videos and your reassuring explanations. There's not much to scare me on these cars now. People shouldn't be put off by negative comments, like you say.
American spec 2001 XK8 convertible which spent early years in Naples, FL and Albuquerque, NM before coming to SF Bay Area (very hot climates). I've repaired or replaced all parts myself using your excellent videos John, and others on youtube. Thankyou. The 4.0L engine was used in the Ford Lincolns so parts can be ordered at Ford dealerships for half the cost of parts at Jaguar dealers. It now has 49k miles and I've repaired: 1) Weather stripping on right side where window meets top. 2) Visors. 3) Center mount overhead lights and mesh grill. 4) Valve cover gaskets. 5) Coolant overflow tank. 6) Fuel pump (this was a fun one). 7) Front shock mounts, bushings all around. 8) ABS/ATC Module. 9) 3 Batteries. 10) Clean ABS wheel sensors each year. 11) LED bulbs in dash. 12) Condensation in left headlight. 13) Air box mounts.
Thats nearly a full house @rnelson2226👍😁 I bet the Lincoln parts, if bought in the UK, would attract the same 'Exotic tax😁' that makes The Jag parts so expensive your side of the pond. It might be worh doing an experiment one day just to see the comparative prices
Pretty sure Ford didn't use the 4.0, they got their own version of the AJ in a 3.9 so it's not the same engine. Most everything that bolts on though, is the same.
Already broken on my XKR at time of purchase is the electric adjustable headrest. I've watched vids on how to fix it and, given my skills, the thought scares me so... I just leave it. Like many others, my CD changer has crapped out. I'm thinking about shipping it somewhere for repair but... it's not that important. I had to replace my coolant overflow reservoir (similar to what John showed in the video) and replace the switch behind my brake pedal. This kept coming up on warnings on the dash and made my cruise control unworkable. I am one of the lucky few that has a still working cup holder. One problem is the shallowness of it and the loose grip. When I accelerate (even lightly) my travel mug tends to flip backwards out of the holder and into the back seat. A good drip proof mug is recommended. I have arrived at a solution. I snagged one of our children's plastic drinking cups (nearly a pint? resembles a pint glass but coloured plastic with a design etched into it that actually aids in the holder gripping it). I insert the plastic cup first and my travel mug slips nicely into it.. The plastic cup stays nice and secure in the lousy cup holder and the travel mug slips easily in and out while utilizing the higher profile of the plastic cup to stay in place.
@@ToTheGarage Mine is fine (touch and entire forest of wood). It's playing both discs of Pink Floyd The Wall, War of the Worlds & Queen Greatest Hits at the moment!
Thanks John, On the ball as usual; # totally agree re the cup holder position/dimensions # yep, rear view mirror tide mark, managed to get a new OEM from Dave Roche in Scotland but cost an arm & a leg to ship to Oz. # key fob, followed your instructions & all good now # important tip re intelligent sounder, will disconnect & see how my battery goes # good tip re headlights, will pinch my wife's hair dryer as I do not need one ! # not sure if it is my pulleys squealing/ticking, but, it goes away when warmed up. May I add the rear internal stop light housing, totally cracked up, probably due to UV. These plastics have a lot to answer for !! Cheers
Hi John, always enjoy the videos. I’ve been lucky with my 2004 XK8 but have been replacing the various items before they give out. One issue I had that seems to plague a few of us was the headrest cable not working due to stretching. These cars are certainly a labour of love. Thanks for all you do. Cheers
Hi John, thank you for the content, it really helps with narrowing and isolating the cause of issues we experience with these great looking cars. I have experienced something that i cannot find any troubleshooting content for, i inserted key into ignition and turned key forward. car would not crank, no acc power, no activation sounds from fuel pump or starter, automatic steering tilt motor did not activate, car battery was not dead i had just driven it 15 minutes prior. i began to jiggle key while in ignition to see if it was a contact issue, i got no power or flickering on dash. i began to twist key back and forward and on the 7th or 8th attempt the tilt motor activated and i twisted key forward to end and got ignition. i put in drive and straight to garage. turned off car and tried to replicate the loss of power situation with no luck, the only thing that i noticed is that the tilt motor would activate and only adjust the steering halfway. the knob to adjust tilt would only move in increments to the end of travel. could this be that the ignition switch needs replacing and the tilt motor needs replacing as well. are they separate issue. ivan
Hi @Ivan-g1y5e. I dont have a tilt motor on my car so I cant investigate that item specifically. However, In every other way it soulnds like either a)the ignition switch (behind the ignition key barrel is worn/ dirty or has a bad connector. b) The action of the steering column moving has fatigued the ignition switch wiring. (If it happens again. try to move the wiring behind the ignition switch, to see if it brings things back to life. c) And the most likely. There is a tiny gate that closes when you remove the ignition key from its slot, stopping dust from entering. If it stick open rather than closing imediately, then this is the issue.! The action of the gate being opened by the key, triggers the electronics that look at the chip folded into the handle of the key to see if its genuine. If the key hole gate is stuck open then it cant turn that system on.
Have a 1998 xkr..great service history Inc upgrades etc. Now just 160k ..driven maybe fortnightly.. none of aforementioned quirks and a spooky driving experience (not game to push her unless on a disused airstrip) is economical cf missus Honda car on highway ,so smooth and effortless grunt (although only 370 hp !! ..do you really need any more ?). Also have 1970 e type and 1986 xjs but xkr is only thing operating at the moment..still s chap can't have too many Jags you know.
Hi John, my 04' XKR has the header tank in the same location but the outlets or inlets have a different layout to the non-supercharged cars with that 'hard plastic' line that comes out and joins another line of the same stuff that I think goes straight to the radiator - the join is somewhat different to yours and rather than heading back in towards the intake manifold as in your car, it heads straight towards the front of the car towards past and down under the ABS unit. I think that "hard plastic" line became brittle right at the join that exits the header tank and developed a leak there, at the L shaped junction (different to yours) about 50mm out from the header tank. Let me tell you that special anti-freeze/anti-boil which is orange in colour absolutely stinks when is drips onto something hot, could smell it inside the cabin, mine was pooling ever so slightly between the exhaust and it's heat shielding. I was out of town too so it was a real pain, I had a warning telling me to stop basically (something along those lines - the memory isn't what it used to be), I think it was a red light rather than a typical orange. I stopped straight away and rang my insurance company to send a breakdown assistance bloke out. He filled the header with water! It wasn't that low to be honest, the float did it's job. A real no no I think adding water though, I wasn't happy with that - he said it takes the red fluid, I had to correct him as clearly I knew more about my Jag than him, it takes that orangey OAT fluid..can't quite remember the specs but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. I can't remember very well but I think I got a typical engine warning light but in Red, with a message on the screen like 'STOP now' or similar, I don't think I got an overheat warning though thankfully. I ended up slicing the line to create a nice new end and trying to create a new join, that line is very hard and easily chips away I found it was quite brittle. I used some adjustable hose clips but that line I think is meant to be heated then squeezed on to the outlet - not sure but the hose clips weren't great. I jerry rigged it to get it home then bought some 10mm rubber hose as per the stuff like on yours. Not a great day that was, all the other faults in this video I haven't had so far thankfully. I recently did my upper shock mounts - I got those yellow ones long before I seen your video series on them. They seem ok so far. I also did my transmission seals, she clunked/banged into first gear and also squawked since I owned her (those are common faults I believe too actually). I learned to drive to her nasty kickdown and even the squawk, just by being gentle mainly. Problem fixed, I wouldn't want to ever do that trans job again, I am supposed to reset the adaptations but that would probably cost my right arm, I had trans fluid all over me even though I used a shop hoist - a mate is a mechanic but he won't go near my Jag LOL, the process to fill the sump is a nightmare for 1 person I think. Anyhow, she has new mechatronic seals, new pan and filter etc. I know it's not a perfect fix and completely changed fluid as there is still fluid in the torque convertor and the cooler lines, but this is a breath of fresh air for a 20yr old car so I'm happy for now. Also recently, I did sway bar bushes and drop links. I have an annoying squeak in my right front shock, sounds like the spring resettling all the damn time, it's loud too, I haven't tried to CRC etc the area/s as yet, I think that's what I'll do first, it's weird, like when I stop I can push down on the right front and it'll squeak till it seems to settle, ( they are original shocks still too) the ongoing Jag fix saga continues...Oh yeah John, if you remember my platinum silver coupe and the big black stripe I applied to it, she's back to stock now. I think I liked it better with the stripe to be honest haha. For those who want to see my car with the stripe I found it in John's community section here: just copy and paste this link th-cam.com/channels/T2ZywCQe9dtTi2qvbQNEdQ.htmlcommunity?lb=UgzK0So-GQj0bTqLJwl4AaABCQ --- of course a few people didn't like the wrap and fair enough too, oh well life goes on. My god I can ramble on...sorry mate. Cheers from New Zealand 👍
Hi Trevor. Yes the early cars had a quite sophisticated fast heat up cooling system that necesitated some trick plumbing. Later cars usually have header tanks with various outlets blanked off depite the nozels still being molded on them. I too really enjoyed the look of your car with the stripe. But thats the beauty of a wrap. You can change your mind or indeed just fancy tring a different look at relatively low cost and very little lead time👍
I've now owned 4 of these cars (2 xk8 conv, 2 xkr coupes) and here are the things that were broken / have broke! Cup Holder - yes on 2 cars Rear View Mirror- yes on 1 car Seat hinge cover - yes on all 4 Tilt Forward release - none Seat adjustment switches - yes on 3 cars Remote control / key fob - yes on 2 cars Boot Keyhole - none Headlight condensation - yes on 2 cars Alarm Sounder - none Timing Chain Tensioner - none (feeling blessed) Air box mount - none Air Breather tube - yes on one car Coolant header tank - yes on one car (hose) Radiator Hose - yes on one car (collapsed) Tensioner Pulley - none Suspension Mount Bushing - yes on all 4 cars! Water Pump - none Everything was a super easy fix, and not very expensive. I buy these cars in pretty rough shape and fix them up, so most are already coming with issues. The plastic hinge covers are easy to snag and break, if you are coming out of the back seats. When I get these cars I can knock out most of these fixes in a day! :)
Sun visors are a certain break, but repair is relatively easy. The plastic hinge which houses a small metal piece gives way and the pressure from the metal that 'snaps' the visor in an upwards position no longer exists.
Hi John Would you please explain why the ABS light is on and at the same time there is an alternating message that says “trac not available” “Adv not available” Also a rectangular red/orange light above that , all on the dash. Is it okay to drive car while these lights are on? Thanks for your advice. Cheryl with a 2000 XK8
Hi Cheryl. If its an Orange light, then its a warning or advisory message. A red Light indicates you should stop driving the car for either its protection or your safety. ABS issues will often cause the Traction control to show faults. So its Likely one and the same fault. I dont recognise Adv as a fault message? Is it possbly a Typo and it was ABS? ABS issues will often be just a bad/ or dirty sensor. (Not too expensive even if it needs replacing) or a bad wiring connection to the sensor. aIf you know anyone with a decent OBDII scanner. They will be able to see on which wheel, the sensor is not working. Occasionally the issue is with the ABS Pump control Module. This is slightly more problematical in that it needs removing, opening up and usually a couple of dry soldered joints re-soldering. An alternative being to replace the whole ABS pump and its attached control module with a known good used, or reconditioned item..
Greetings from across the pond! I'm looking at a 1998 XK8 Coup for only $1100 because it seems it has some steering issues and is pulling on the current owner. I'm thinking its the rack gone out, any idea how nasty of a job it is to fix? Also, could that be an issue with the struts?
The struts / dampers won't influence it as it's not a MacPherson strut car. and they dont affect geometry and dont swivel with the steering. If its pulling under braking then of course it could be brakes but also Wishbone bushes. If its pulling you around without braking then it could still be worn upper wishbone or lower arm bushes. It could be Upper or lower ball joints. It could be steering rack inner track rod joints, Steering rack mounting rubbers, Low oil level in power steering giving intermittent assistance Rarely but possible, is a cracked upper wishbone. But the one to check first is tyre condition and pressure along with toe in/out (tracking). These cars are prone to 'tramline' when tyre pressures are wrong or where anything else affects the contact patch of the tyre on the road.. This is where the car starts to actively try to steer towards the high point on the road. In the UK this means they start to pull to the right intermittently as our roads are crowned (High in the centre). If it is an intermittent and failing rack, The easiest way to change it is to drop the fromt subframe. This requires you to release the front struts from their towers, Disconnect the brake flexi hoses and then support the engine while you release the crossmember and lower that along with the suspension. and rack. i.e. Not VERY easy. However the racks do not have a reputation for failing, so check all other options first.
@@ToTheGarage I passed on the car, I was looking to fix and flip it but the body was so beat up that I would have lost money on the deal. Other wise, it's a great project car for someone that wants to add a big cat to their collection.
Hi John, my 23 year old XK8’s retractable roof is starting to fail. Very jerky and sticks on the way up and down. Do you have any advice on this please? Thanks.
More top xk content John. If it hasnt been said before OCTOPUS hoses and all those pesky plastic Norma attachments. Invisible, untracable aircon coolant leaks. Aerials need replacing regularly. Also remind people about ensuring the rubber boot drains for the plenum are attached. Leaking cam covers. Holes in air intake duct (a real performance killer). All manner of rust issues. And much more.
Thanks James. I am trying to avoid the rust issues as there are just too many variants to share in short lists like these. (A video all on its own I fear) I will be adding the plenum drain pipes to my list for a sequel video though. Thanks👍
well, I'm sure glad this vid wasn't out before I bought my XK8 a couple of years ago. sure would have made me change my mind. however- perhaps some remarks are in order. it may well hinge on the point of "using" the XK8. doing 6000mls a year or more on one of those, or many cars that age, may be putting more strain on the car, or reducing the possibility of caring for her in the appropriate manner, than is ideal. so, from my perspective.... I really don't expect neither my vents nor my cup holders or seat switches to fall off, cause they are hardly touched at all. and certainly nobody is having a cuppa inside the Jag, to be sure. don't want any tea on the ivory leather, do we? I'd take a rather dim view on somebody kicking off that seat trim, but then- won't happen, nobody sits in the rear seats, never has, never will. why? the XK8 isn't "used" like that, but is part of a collection and if somebody will need to sit backside, there is a car for this. with rear doors. on the XK8, mileage averages to just over 2000 per year lifetime and appx 1000 p.a. since I've got her. 60'000 is a long time away, that'll take us 15years or so. however- these cars are old, 20years and counting so we're out of warranty, maintenance and replacing items is to be expected. things like suspension bushes, top mounts, water pump, thermostat and more could be named with most high class vehicles of that age, think Audis or BMWs, depending on mileage. hoses, gaskets, seals may fail, sometimes. if that's worrying, one needs to stay with much younger cars. like 2 or 3 years old. so for collectors intending to buy an XK8, I'd suggest not to be too concerned. every car has some weak spots, be prepared to handle (preventive) maintenance as required. some items do not apply to the later model 4.2ltr. in my humble opinion, the Jags of this era are surprisingly well designed, better than expected, in fact.
I unfortunately have the rotten, all but useless cup holder. It drove me nuts by opening on its own accord regularly. I solved this by putting a pad with an attractive cushion made to very easily connect to the top of the armrest gotten from Amazon (where else?). I replaced a missing alternate remote buying a new old stock one from eBay for a reasonable price. I very recently repaired the cooling system overflow sensor that kept bitching a fake low coolant level. My beauty is a real survivor. It was, on paper, the wrong car to buy, having 6 prior owners, a rebuilt title having been declared a total loss in a flood and it had 98k miles on it, but I bought it any way for half the price of the next cheapest one. As I expected, I have paid a few thousand on repairs, over my year of owning it.
I need a new cluster package for my 2001 XK8, yet I'm told they're no longer available, is this true? If so, what should I do, or where should I go to get help? I'm in Canada and I drive on the left hand side of the car in the right hand lane on the highway.
In the UK we have high quality car breakers, and even some that only dismantle Jags. 'Autoreserve Jaguar' probably being the most famous if you wanted to look on line just for interest. However we see very few Left hand Drive XK8's in the UK, so I doubt you would find one in the UK. Im sure there must be equivalents in the states though.
Looking at a 2003 xkr convertible with 100,249 miles. Asking price is $11,000 usd. Do you guys think the mileage is a tad bit too high for a new owner. Supposedly a 1 owner car
These have to be one of the most frustrating vehicles I'm literally about to take a grinder to the bottom where spare tire sit cut it out just to access my trunk
Hope you have checked out all my other videos on gaining access to the boot first. You will have to make a very big hole as the spare wheel will have to come out to make enough room for you to remove the plastic trim covering the boot latch mechanism which in turn is inside a box section. Assuming your boot has opened previously then of all the sacrificial techniques I would suggest removing the rear bumper and drilling a hole 'just' below the leverl that the bumper normaly covers at the middle of the car. Or sacrificing a rear light cluster above the secret key hole and then cutting down through the metalwork above the secret key hole. Neither solution is easy though as the Jags boot is genuinely well thought out from a security point of view and has no quick easy entry method even for a well-tooled-up thief.
@@ToTheGarage I have watched your videos religiously and I will attempt to remove bumper first and opening up that small unwelded portion.. My boot has always opened fine , my problem started after this winter . I noticed one day my boot was always randomly open ,I would close it and go do some chores and when I came back open again , so me thinking I was smart I disconnected the electrical part as my key always worked in the mechanical key hole. Then one day while replacing tail light I closed the lid and ever since the key hole stopped working as well,key turns but doesn't pull cable as if somehow cable snapped
good thing i am a whatever happen specialist not hard do to timing just time patience and follow the directions .and do not use ebay junk it has its place but not in an engine
1:16 Cup Holder
3:11 Rear View Mirror
4:51 Air vents
6:19 Seat hinge cover
8:20 Tilt Forward release
8:50 Seat adjustment switches
9:30 Remote control / key fob
12:06 Boot Keyhole
13:15 Headlight condensation
15:50 Alarm Sounder
18:38 Timing Chain Tensioner
22:30 Air box mount
22:50 Air Breather tube
23:35 Coolant header tank
24:12 Radiator Hose
25:20 Tensioner Pulley
26:00 Suspension Mount Bushing
27:08 Water Pump
Cheers
Hi John! When I got my '04 I had both keys but only 1 fob. I went on eBay, found what I thought was a refurbished fob for only $15. When I received it, turns out to be a brand new aftermarket that was a dead ringer for the OEM fob save for the fact that it didn't have the growler embossed on it. It also came with full written instructions on how to reprogram both fobs (you have to do both to add a new one) and don't you know, it actually worked first time!
Thanks for that @flyurway It may have been a very long time ago, but if the same product is still on eBay. Copy a link and share it with us via these comments. Stay safe pal👍
Hi John, loved the "apart from the battery" strapline at the beginning.
Here's my personal score (2005 car)...
1) Cup holder: no breakage yet, but that's because they're rubbish so I don't use it.
2) Dipping view mirror: still OK so far.
3) Air Vents: broken (must re-watch your video and fix them).
4, 5 & 6) Plastic trim: All in one piece but I do have a moulding that's dropped off and I can't seem to find where it's cone from!
7) Key Fob: both on their last legs. Again, I need to re-watch your video on how to clean/repair them.
8) Secret key hole: gave mine a clean after I saw your original video on the subject, so all good.
9) Headlight condensation: nothing too serious yet.
10) Siren: no issues yet.
11) Timing chains: not relevant due to age of car.
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 & 18) All good so far.
Sounds like I've got lots of issues to look forward to!
I would suggest adding ...
Footwell plates rotting, due to those production line spigots not being removed.
Need to change gearbox oil.
Sticking radio aerial.
Heater/aircon problems.
Excellent video. Sorry I couldn't watch live.
mine is 2000 reg xkr and has none of the issues listed lol
Yours is 'the one'. never sell it👍😁
I just bought a console armrest from the UK to USA a few weeks ago. Looks MUCH better than the cup holder version and it's like new! Besides no DRINKING in the Jaguar!
Do you have a link for where you bought it?
Yes, no drinking & no eating!
@@backinit ...ebay UK, if they offer ebays global shipping it's pretty cheap.
Like you I live in the USA the cup holders are pathetic and you could never get a BIG GULPPER in one of those BUTTT NO FOOD or DRINK in any car it's not a cafe.
Oh I've sat in a McD's parking lot and chowed down a burger, but those cup holders are the worst - but whadaya expect for a $89,000 car, right? Where do I find one of those armrests?
Hi John, Another excellent video, especially for newcomers. I have been very lucky with my 2004 XK8 only had to fit (#10) a new alarm sounder and #14 (had three of those!). HOWEVER, I have just had my brake switch fail (actually the cruise control switch part of it), which gives a 'Check rear lights/ No cruise control' warning come up on the message centre. I found the solution on Richard Astley's channel. Just got to get my soldering iron out now to fix it.
Thanks for sharing Alan The brake switch will make the next list
Thanks John. Here's one for XKR (x100) owners. I've heard of a number of people who ripped their oil cooler off going over relatively small bumps. That was about the first thing I did. I was lucky and found a new cooler for only $400. The oil cooler is mounted pretty low and hangs from 2 rubber blocks which are bolted below 2 tabs welded to the anti-sway bar. If you remount the cooler, bolting the rubber blocks above the tabs and the cooler above the blocks that will raise everything up about 2 inches. Of course I also had druppy nose from the original worn out shock mounts which didn't help. ;-)
excellent tip re the oil cooler mounting👍👍
For anyone who is struggling with their key fob...I fixed my key fob with standard kitchen aluminium foil cut and glued on the worn graphite/carbon contacts. It works perfectly and it is extremely cheap! I fixed it last year and it still works fine.
Thanks for sharing. It does work well for those with nimble fingers and good eyes. I've had a few comment that its impossible to work with such tiny bits of foil without glueing them to your fingers😁👍😁
I've watched your videos from the start. I'm the caretaker (5 years plus now) of a 2007 XK Convertible, 1 of 97 built, in Winter Gold, 56000 miles on the clock. I do car shows with it and drive it. love the car! Other than changing oil, tires, and battery, Zero things to fix, All original. Everything works! I drive it and enjoy it.
Nice to hear from you Jim. Winter Gold is a wonderful colour. Carry on looking after her👍
How interetsing.
Thank you so much for your videos!
I feel lucky that since I bought my 1998 XK8 a year ago (85.000 miles) I only experienced the following (and still minor) issues you rightly mentionned:
Rear View Mirror
Seat hinge cover
Boot Keyhole
Headlight condensation
Water Pump (+ thermostat), this one a more serious one,
wishing that other things were fixed before I bought it (do not think so...), and waiting for more things to break and be fixed thanks to your channel...
Love this car by the way!
Thanks for taking the time to update us Eduard. I HOPE YOUR CAR BRINGS YOU AS MANY SMILES AS purdey brings me👍
yes all of these I've had my 1997 xk8 from new the biggest was the gearbox which also needed a new torque converter at 100,000 and the hood fluid changing well done
Thanks John👍 Always great to hear from owners who have had their cars from New. Particularly the very early cars like yours.
Thanks John, very useful vid for anyone with X308 ownership.
Another good video John, thanks. I would also add the thermostat tower, hence most upgraded to metal at some point.
Good call! And I have a metal thermostat tower in my drawer, ready for the plastic one to start looking dodgy
Thank you very much for a most informative video, with a good, clear and relaxed voice and no annoying background music. I am about to buy a ‘97 XK8 coupe and will try to check all 18 items. Question : Do you also have a video on the up/down action of side windows and possible water leaks between glass and rubber weather strip? Thanks for sharing any info on this issue as well.
Great reminder John, thanks. Another one where ageing plastic is to blame is the thermostat tower on older cars - and also the ashtray cover in the centre console where the hinges break
Thanks for sharing Hunty. I will add the ashtray mechanism to my growing list for this videos sequel👍
Great video. I'm an avid watcher of your channel, and have seen the (separate) original videos pointing out the potential XK8/XKR issues. But, it is nice to have them grouped into one video. Thanks for the reminder!
Thank you very much Louis. Just reacting to one of the questions im regularly asked👍
I have had to deal with most of your listed breakages John. Plus the hydraulic roof latch leakage problem.
The Irony is Nev, I suspect you like me quite enjoy the fixing. Im Odd.
Its probably why I admire Toyota's so much, but will probably never own one.
Alfa's on the other hand🤔🤣
@@ToTheGarage Repairing/improving and understanding is all part of the ownership fun.
Bang on John! I've had at least a third of these crop up. A lot of mine are due largely to aged plastics but not helped by some gorilla action by what I believe to be " not very careful" mechanics. My centre console frame had lost all but one attaching hole, J gate cover had lost all four tabs, and so it goes on. Fortunately I've managed to repair and or replace most of it and I have to thank you in particular for your excellent videos and your reassuring explanations. There's not much to scare me on these cars now. People shouldn't be put off by negative comments, like you say.
Rough mechanics are a scourge on the planet. They tend to be people who have the job, rather than want the job.
@@ToTheGarage Oh, and Steering Rack pressure line was another one. Like knitting through a letterbox, that one!
American spec 2001 XK8 convertible which spent early years in Naples, FL and Albuquerque, NM before coming to SF Bay Area (very hot climates). I've repaired or replaced all parts myself using your excellent videos John, and others on youtube. Thankyou. The 4.0L engine was used in the Ford Lincolns so parts can be ordered at Ford dealerships for half the cost of parts at Jaguar dealers. It now has 49k miles and I've repaired: 1) Weather stripping on right side where window meets top. 2) Visors. 3) Center mount overhead lights and mesh grill. 4) Valve cover gaskets. 5) Coolant overflow tank. 6) Fuel pump (this was a fun one). 7) Front shock mounts, bushings all around. 8) ABS/ATC Module. 9) 3 Batteries. 10) Clean ABS wheel sensors each year. 11) LED bulbs in dash. 12) Condensation in left headlight. 13) Air box mounts.
Thats nearly a full house @rnelson2226👍😁 I bet the Lincoln parts, if bought in the UK, would attract the same 'Exotic tax😁' that makes The Jag parts so expensive your side of the pond.
It might be worh doing an experiment one day just to see the comparative prices
Pretty sure Ford didn't use the 4.0, they got their own version of the AJ in a 3.9 so it's not the same engine. Most everything that bolts on though, is the same.
Thank you, John, I've just unplugged my Intelligent sounder thanks to your tip, hopefully I won't have to keep resetting my windows every day now!
Glad it helped. @spiderfiveeightnine let us know if it has resolved your issues🤞
As a 1998 xk8 owner for 11 years in the U.S. Your are spot on John. Love your content!
Thanks 'Eric?' (just guessing based on your youtube name) Thanks for watching.👍
Many (most?) of these issues apply to the XJ8/XJR (X308) too! Been there, done that.
Once again a very informative video. Thanks John.
Very welcome
Already broken on my XKR at time of purchase is the electric adjustable headrest. I've watched vids on how to fix it and, given my skills, the thought scares me so... I just leave it.
Like many others, my CD changer has crapped out. I'm thinking about shipping it somewhere for repair but... it's not that important.
I had to replace my coolant overflow reservoir (similar to what John showed in the video) and replace the switch behind my brake pedal. This kept coming up on warnings on the dash and made my cruise control unworkable.
I am one of the lucky few that has a still working cup holder. One problem is the shallowness of it and the loose grip. When I accelerate (even lightly) my travel mug tends to flip backwards out of the holder and into the back seat. A good drip proof mug is recommended. I have arrived at a solution. I snagged one of our children's plastic drinking cups (nearly a pint? resembles a pint glass but coloured plastic with a design etched into it that actually aids in the holder gripping it). I insert the plastic cup first and my travel mug slips nicely into it.. The plastic cup stays nice and secure in the lousy cup holder and the travel mug slips easily in and out while utilizing the higher profile of the plastic cup to stay in place.
I'll try your cup holder fix, as right now they are useless.
@@stephendavies6949 I can't post pics here. Perhaps I'll send one to john and he can post it.
The CD changer is another great one for me to add to the list.
@@ToTheGarage Mine is fine (touch and entire forest of wood). It's playing both discs of Pink Floyd The Wall, War of the Worlds & Queen Greatest Hits at the moment!
Ahhh good taste in cars, TH-cam channels😁 and music I see🤔🍺
Another great Video John. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks John for a very informative video.
Very welcome
Thanks John,
On the ball as usual;
# totally agree re the cup holder position/dimensions
# yep, rear view mirror tide mark, managed to get a new OEM from Dave Roche in Scotland but cost an arm & a leg to ship to Oz.
# key fob, followed your instructions & all good now
# important tip re intelligent sounder, will disconnect & see how my battery goes
# good tip re headlights, will pinch my wife's hair dryer as I do not need one !
# not sure if it is my pulleys squealing/ticking, but, it goes away when warmed up.
May I add the rear internal stop light housing, totally cracked up, probably due to UV. These plastics have a lot to answer for !!
Cheers
Cheers Alan. Ive added the high level stop light to my list👍
Hi John, always enjoy the videos. I’ve been lucky with my 2004 XK8 but have been replacing the various items before they give out. One issue I had that seems to plague a few of us was the headrest cable not working due to stretching. These cars are certainly a labour of love. Thanks for all you do. Cheers
Thanks @craigs9798 yes thats a major one for any car with the recaro seats. on my list for the sequel👍
Hi John, thank you for the content, it really helps with narrowing and isolating the cause of issues we experience with these great looking cars. I have experienced something that i cannot find any troubleshooting content for, i inserted key into ignition and turned key forward. car would not crank, no acc power, no activation sounds from fuel pump or starter, automatic steering tilt motor did not activate, car battery was not dead i had just driven it 15 minutes prior. i began to jiggle key while in ignition to see if it was a contact issue, i got no power or flickering on dash. i began to twist key back and forward and on the 7th or 8th attempt the tilt motor activated and i twisted key forward to end and got ignition. i put in drive and straight to garage. turned off car and tried to replicate the loss of power situation with no luck, the only thing that i noticed is that the tilt motor would activate and only adjust the steering halfway. the knob to adjust tilt would only move in increments to the end of travel. could this be that the ignition switch needs replacing and the tilt motor needs replacing as well. are they separate issue.
ivan
Hi @Ivan-g1y5e. I dont have a tilt motor on my car so I cant investigate that item specifically. However, In every other way it soulnds like either
a)the ignition switch (behind the ignition key barrel is worn/ dirty or has a bad connector.
b) The action of the steering column moving has fatigued the ignition switch wiring. (If it happens again. try to move the wiring behind the ignition switch, to see if it brings things back to life.
c) And the most likely. There is a tiny gate that closes when you remove the ignition key from its slot, stopping dust from entering. If it stick open rather than closing imediately, then this is the issue.!
The action of the gate being opened by the key, triggers the electronics that look at the chip folded into the handle of the key to see if its genuine. If the key hole gate is stuck open then it cant turn that system on.
Another great video John, keep up the good work 😀👍
Dare I mention the green shower 🤔
You Dared! 😁. Ive added it to the list for next time👍
I am pretty sure the same rearview mirror was used in an Acura tl model and can be had for a lot cheaper that way.
Excellent intel @leodriscoll2929
My 1999 XKR is solid - I've only had 16 of those 18 repaired. (missed the air vents and the alarm sounder). ABS module is another common one.
Lets hope youve not jinxed it for the last two🤞😁. I will add the ABS module to my next list. Good call
Have a 1998 xkr..great service history Inc upgrades etc. Now just 160k ..driven maybe fortnightly.. none of aforementioned quirks and a spooky driving experience (not game to push her unless on a disused airstrip) is economical cf missus Honda car on highway ,so smooth and effortless grunt (although only 370 hp !! ..do you really need any more ?). Also have 1970 e type and 1986 xjs but xkr is only thing operating at the moment..still s chap can't have too many Jags you know.
Couldnt agree more Russell.
Hi John, my 04' XKR has the header tank in the same location but the outlets or inlets have a different layout to the non-supercharged cars with that 'hard plastic' line that comes out and joins another line of the same stuff that I think goes straight to the radiator - the join is somewhat different to yours and rather than heading back in towards the intake manifold as in your car, it heads straight towards the front of the car towards past and down under the ABS unit. I think that "hard plastic" line became brittle right at the join that exits the header tank and developed a leak there, at the L shaped junction (different to yours) about 50mm out from the header tank. Let me tell you that special anti-freeze/anti-boil which is orange in colour absolutely stinks when is drips onto something hot, could smell it inside the cabin, mine was pooling ever so slightly between the exhaust and it's heat shielding. I was out of town too so it was a real pain, I had a warning telling me to stop basically (something along those lines - the memory isn't what it used to be), I think it was a red light rather than a typical orange. I stopped straight away and rang my insurance company to send a breakdown assistance bloke out. He filled the header with water! It wasn't that low to be honest, the float did it's job. A real no no I think adding water though, I wasn't happy with that - he said it takes the red fluid, I had to correct him as clearly I knew more about my Jag than him, it takes that orangey OAT fluid..can't quite remember the specs but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
I can't remember very well but I think I got a typical engine warning light but in Red, with a message on the screen like 'STOP now' or similar, I don't think I got an overheat warning though thankfully. I ended up slicing the line to create a nice new end and trying to create a new join, that line is very hard and easily chips away I found it was quite brittle. I used some adjustable hose clips but that line I think is meant to be heated then squeezed on to the outlet - not sure but the hose clips weren't great. I jerry rigged it to get it home then bought some 10mm rubber hose as per the stuff like on yours. Not a great day that was, all the other faults in this video I haven't had so far thankfully.
I recently did my upper shock mounts - I got those yellow ones long before I seen your video series on them. They seem ok so far. I also did my transmission seals, she clunked/banged into first gear and also squawked since I owned her (those are common faults I believe too actually). I learned to drive to her nasty kickdown and even the squawk, just by being gentle mainly.
Problem fixed, I wouldn't want to ever do that trans job again, I am supposed to reset the adaptations but that would probably cost my right arm, I had trans fluid all over me even though I used a shop hoist - a mate is a mechanic but he won't go near my Jag LOL, the process to fill the sump is a nightmare for 1 person I think. Anyhow, she has new mechatronic seals, new pan and filter etc. I know it's not a perfect fix and completely changed fluid as there is still fluid in the torque convertor and the cooler lines, but this is a breath of fresh air for a 20yr old car so I'm happy for now.
Also recently, I did sway bar bushes and drop links. I have an annoying squeak in my right front shock, sounds like the spring resettling all the damn time, it's loud too, I haven't tried to CRC etc the area/s as yet, I think that's what I'll do first, it's weird, like when I stop I can push down on the right front and it'll squeak till it seems to settle, ( they are original shocks still too) the ongoing Jag fix saga continues...Oh yeah John, if you remember my platinum silver coupe and the big black stripe I applied to it, she's back to stock now.
I think I liked it better with the stripe to be honest haha.
For those who want to see my car with the stripe I found it in John's community section here: just copy and paste this link th-cam.com/channels/T2ZywCQe9dtTi2qvbQNEdQ.htmlcommunity?lb=UgzK0So-GQj0bTqLJwl4AaABCQ --- of course a few people didn't like the wrap and fair enough too, oh well life goes on. My god I can ramble on...sorry mate. Cheers from New Zealand 👍
Hi Trevor.
Yes the early cars had a quite sophisticated fast heat up cooling system that necesitated some trick plumbing. Later cars usually have header tanks with various outlets blanked off depite the nozels still being molded on them.
I too really enjoyed the look of your car with the stripe. But thats the beauty of a wrap. You can change your mind or indeed just fancy tring a different look at relatively low cost and very little lead time👍
I've now owned 4 of these cars (2 xk8 conv, 2 xkr coupes) and here are the things that were broken / have broke!
Cup Holder - yes on 2 cars
Rear View Mirror- yes on 1 car
Seat hinge cover - yes on all 4
Tilt Forward release - none
Seat adjustment switches - yes on 3 cars
Remote control / key fob - yes on 2 cars
Boot Keyhole - none
Headlight condensation - yes on 2 cars
Alarm Sounder - none
Timing Chain Tensioner - none (feeling blessed)
Air box mount - none
Air Breather tube - yes on one car
Coolant header tank - yes on one car (hose)
Radiator Hose - yes on one car (collapsed)
Tensioner Pulley - none
Suspension Mount Bushing - yes on all 4 cars!
Water Pump - none
Everything was a super easy fix, and not very expensive. I buy these cars in pretty rough shape and fix them up, so most are already coming with issues. The plastic hinge covers are easy to snag and break, if you are coming out of the back seats. When I get these cars I can knock out most of these fixes in a day! :)
Thanks for this @nahaja3989. you are like a one man survey😁👍
Great vid John, I luckily only got to 4! But who knows what might go wrong next😅.
A low score Andrew. Most seem to be reporting in the 8 to 12 range with a few full houses!
@@ToTheGarage ive lived my life with low scores..finally its paid off😅👍
Sun visors are a certain break, but repair is relatively easy. The plastic hinge which houses a small metal piece gives way and the pressure from the metal that 'snaps' the visor in an upwards position no longer exists.
Hi John
Would you please explain why the ABS light is on and at the same time there is an alternating message that says
“trac not available”
“Adv not available”
Also a rectangular red/orange light above that , all on the dash.
Is it okay to drive car while these lights are on?
Thanks for your advice.
Cheryl with a 2000 XK8
Hi Cheryl. If its an Orange light, then its a warning or advisory message. A red Light indicates you should stop driving the car for either its protection or your safety.
ABS issues will often cause the Traction control to show faults. So its Likely one and the same fault. I dont recognise Adv as a fault message? Is it possbly a Typo and it was ABS?
ABS issues will often be just a bad/ or dirty sensor. (Not too expensive even if it needs replacing) or a bad wiring connection to the sensor. aIf you know anyone with a decent OBDII scanner. They will be able to see on which wheel, the sensor is not working. Occasionally the issue is with the ABS Pump control Module. This is slightly more problematical in that it needs removing, opening up and usually a couple of dry soldered joints re-soldering. An alternative being to replace the whole ABS pump and its attached control module with a known good used, or reconditioned item..
Thanks for the message. The light is orange. I’ll know what to look for now. I appreciate your channel…..
Thanks John.
you are welcome
Greetings from across the pond! I'm looking at a 1998 XK8 Coup for only $1100 because it seems it has some steering issues and is pulling on the current owner. I'm thinking its the rack gone out, any idea how nasty of a job it is to fix? Also, could that be an issue with the struts?
The struts / dampers won't influence it as it's not a MacPherson strut car. and they dont affect geometry and dont swivel with the steering.
If its pulling under braking then of course it could be brakes but also Wishbone bushes. If its pulling you around without braking then it could still be worn upper wishbone or lower arm bushes. It could be Upper or lower ball joints. It could be steering rack inner track rod joints, Steering rack mounting rubbers, Low oil level in power steering giving intermittent assistance
Rarely but possible, is a cracked upper wishbone.
But the one to check first is tyre condition and pressure along with toe in/out (tracking). These cars are prone to 'tramline' when tyre pressures are wrong or where anything else affects the contact patch of the tyre on the road.. This is where the car starts to actively try to steer towards the high point on the road. In the UK this means they start to pull to the right intermittently as our roads are crowned (High in the centre).
If it is an intermittent and failing rack, The easiest way to change it is to drop the fromt subframe. This requires you to release the front struts from their towers, Disconnect the brake flexi hoses and then support the engine while you release the crossmember and lower that along with the suspension. and rack. i.e. Not VERY easy. However the racks do not have a reputation for failing, so check all other options first.
@@ToTheGarage I passed on the car, I was looking to fix and flip it but the body was so beat up that I would have lost money on the deal. Other wise, it's a great project car for someone that wants to add a big cat to their collection.
Hi John, my 23 year old XK8’s retractable roof is starting to fail. Very jerky and sticks on the way up and down. Do you have any advice on this please? Thanks.
The most likely cause is degrading hydraulic fluid in the hood mechanism. Replace the fluid and see how it is then👍🤞
@@ToTheGarage thanks John. Much appreciated
Hi John how can I get this year’s Calendar if you still doing it. Calos
www.tothegarage.co.uk/product-page/2023-jaguar-x100-calendar
More top xk content John. If it hasnt been said before OCTOPUS hoses and all those pesky plastic Norma attachments. Invisible, untracable aircon coolant leaks. Aerials need replacing regularly. Also remind people about ensuring the rubber boot drains for the plenum are attached. Leaking cam covers. Holes in air intake duct (a real performance killer). All manner of rust issues. And much more.
Thanks James. I am trying to avoid the rust issues as there are just too many variants to share in short lists like these. (A video all on its own I fear) I will be adding the plenum drain pipes to my list for a sequel video though. Thanks👍
well, I'm sure glad this vid wasn't out before I bought my XK8 a couple of years ago. sure would have made me change my mind. however- perhaps some remarks are in order. it may well hinge on the point of "using" the XK8. doing 6000mls a year or more on one of those, or many cars that age, may be putting more strain on the car, or reducing the possibility of caring for her in the appropriate manner, than is ideal.
so, from my perspective.... I really don't expect neither my vents nor my cup holders or seat switches to fall off, cause they are hardly touched at all. and certainly nobody is having a cuppa inside the Jag, to be sure. don't want any tea on the ivory leather, do we? I'd take a rather dim view on somebody kicking off that seat trim, but then- won't happen, nobody sits in the rear seats, never has, never will. why? the XK8 isn't "used" like that, but is part of a collection and if somebody will need to sit backside, there is a car for this. with rear doors. on the XK8, mileage averages to just over 2000 per year lifetime and appx 1000 p.a. since I've got her. 60'000 is a long time away, that'll take us 15years or so.
however- these cars are old, 20years and counting so we're out of warranty, maintenance and replacing items is to be expected. things like suspension bushes, top mounts, water pump, thermostat and more could be named with most high class vehicles of that age, think Audis or BMWs, depending on mileage. hoses, gaskets, seals may fail, sometimes. if that's worrying, one needs to stay with much younger cars. like 2 or 3 years old.
so for collectors intending to buy an XK8, I'd suggest not to be too concerned. every car has some weak spots, be prepared to handle (preventive) maintenance as required. some items do not apply to the later model 4.2ltr.
in my humble opinion, the Jags of this era are surprisingly well designed, better than expected, in fact.
My header tank needed replacing so got new one which arrived 2 days after someone rear ending me which will probably result in it being written off 😢
So sorry to hear that @Ridley2907
I unfortunately have the rotten, all but useless cup holder. It drove me nuts by opening on its own accord regularly. I solved this by putting a pad with an attractive cushion made to very easily connect to the top of the armrest gotten from Amazon (where else?). I replaced a missing alternate remote buying a new old stock one from eBay for a reasonable price. I very recently repaired the cooling system overflow sensor that kept bitching a fake low coolant level. My beauty is a real survivor. It was, on paper, the wrong car to buy, having 6 prior owners, a rebuilt title having been declared a total loss in a flood and it had 98k miles on it, but I bought it any way for half the price of the next cheapest one. As I expected, I have paid a few thousand on repairs, over my year of owning it.
I need a new cluster package for my 2001 XK8, yet I'm told they're no longer available, is this true? If so, what should I do, or where should I go to get help? I'm in Canada and I drive on the left hand side of the car in the right hand lane on the highway.
In the UK we have high quality car breakers, and even some that only dismantle Jags. 'Autoreserve Jaguar' probably being the most famous if you wanted to look on line just for interest. However we see very few Left hand Drive XK8's in the UK, so I doubt you would find one in the UK.
Im sure there must be equivalents in the states though.
Looking at a 2003 xkr convertible with 100,249 miles. Asking price is $11,000 usd. Do you guys think the mileage is a tad bit too high for a new owner. Supposedly a 1 owner car
Looking forward to playing XK8 failure bingo later. HOUSE!
Ha Hah. that would have been a better title for it. we could see who scores highest🤣
Good game, good game 😂
@@ToTheGarage Think that award goes to Simon. No contest.
These have to be one of the most frustrating vehicles I'm literally about to take a grinder to the bottom where spare tire sit cut it out just to access my trunk
Hope you have checked out all my other videos on gaining access to the boot first. You will have to make a very big hole as the spare wheel will have to come out to make enough room for you to remove the plastic trim covering the boot latch mechanism which in turn is inside a box section. Assuming your boot has opened previously then of all the sacrificial techniques I would suggest removing the rear bumper and drilling a hole 'just' below the leverl that the bumper normaly covers at the middle of the car. Or sacrificing a rear light cluster above the secret key hole and then cutting down through the metalwork above the secret key hole. Neither solution is easy though as the Jags boot is genuinely well thought out from a security point of view and has no quick easy entry method even for a well-tooled-up thief.
@@ToTheGarage I have watched your videos religiously and I will attempt to remove bumper first and opening up that small unwelded portion..
My boot has always opened fine , my problem started after this winter . I noticed one day my boot was always randomly open ,I would close it and go do some chores and when I came back open again , so me thinking I was smart I disconnected the electrical part as my key always worked in the mechanical key hole. Then one day while replacing tail light I closed the lid and ever since the key hole stopped working as well,key turns but doesn't pull cable as if somehow cable snapped
good thing i am a whatever happen specialist not hard do to timing just time patience and follow the directions .and do not use ebay junk it has its place but not in an engine
well said sir
There will be no drinking in my jaguar !
The easiest answer to the cup holder problem👍
Hi only 18
He forgot the other 239!!
Saving stuff for another day🤣
Beware of the hose roobin' under the hood...
I man baby crazy Jaguar make smoke.