Drill big holes in 1" thick steel - Fastest way? - Iron - Metal - Aluminum - Large Drill Press
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2016
- Just a quick video showing multiple ways to drill big holes in thick steel. We were using 1" thick steel flat bar. Showing how use different types of drill bits to put large holes in big pieces of metal. We timed each process to detremine which way is faster?
First we used an annual cutter, next up 3 different size twist drills, and lastly a regular hole saw. You might be surprised with the results.
You could easily use this same fast process to drill big holes in aluminum, iron, arn, and metal.
These are basic processes and skills
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This press has worked like a charm for my projects th-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
An old machinist told me to drill small holes around the perimeter of the holesaw so the shavings all out and you can go faster. Works like a charm!
What a bunch of ball baby comments, the guy made a video to show several methods of hole drilling. He was opening possibilities to people who do not know what to use. All these comments bashing him. Shut up. If you want to have a contest about machining, bring it. What he did was to help many and you all waa, waa, waa.
lol, thanks Jadon, yea there are alot of snowflake cry baby's out there
Hell, I agree. I've been a machinist for almost 30 years, the guy is showing a comparison, not asking for help, not asking for a better method, ffs, just showing a comparison of the tools he had, and how he uses them. Seems like almost everyone on TH-cam these days is an expert, and they're always better than the person making the video, ask 'em! Hahaha(even though 99% have never posted a video themselves) ... Great vid, thanks for sharing.
Yep... world is full of armchair experts.
Forget the dabbing with the brush those bits should be swimming in oil
Facts yo, once it starts cutting flood it
@@alvinsuklal7511 You know it !
@@peterm8078 When drilling the heat is not your friend , the color of the spent material will tell you if you're too hot then there goes the edge
Great video!!! That is the first time I have seen a annular cutter in action. I always used bits or the hole saw, this video has really opened my horizons.
Simple tip for the hole saw... I ran some parts that required a 6" rough machined hole in 1" thick plate a few years ago. Rather than circle burn them (plasma table wasn't an option) the plates were to be in the mill anyways so I hole sawed them. I drilled 4, 3/16 holes at 90* to each other on the 6" circle (staying just inside the OD of the hole saw). This allowed the chips to clear through the small holes and I passed the hole saw in one pass with coolant of course. Cheap, easy and dirty as f!
That's a great idea.flatbroke. That way the hole saw has a chance to clear the flute.
Would that work with all the tools?
Especially the annular. Longest chip is the diameter with one hole
Kevin Breslin, do you mean whilst using the annular cutter? If so it wouldn't be necessary if using the annular cutter.
Well I don't have an annular cutter blade. Not at this moment. I recently cut 2.25mm 43mm galvanised tube. I actually stripped the teeth of my 43mm bi metal hole saw. That's because I ran it between two sides without a pilot drill. I then used a 51mm cobalt holesaw bit with pilot drill. I used a metabo cordless drill and set the torque on number 5 at low speed. Each time the bit caught the drill would stop. This worked well.
The annual cutter is designed to be used with a continuous flow of cooling medium, which will seriously decrease the time used for cutting through thick steel. We always used a magnetic drill press with a built-in cooling medium container.
I don't have the press to run these bits, and so am no expert; but lol, that smoke is a bad sign, IMO. Spinning too fast and/or insufficient cooling.
@@markluxton3402 my coworker and I use a milwaukee fuel to drill the box rails of ambulances we remount to 1" 3/8 using a step bit through half inch aluminum overhead. Shit actually sucks eggs
For thinner stuff like 1/4" steel plate, I found that tungsten carbide tipped hole saws work very well for cutting larger diameter holes
As a home hobbyist, I would never have believed that a whole saw (that I have had for years and only used for wood project) could cut through that thick of steel. AMAZING! Thanks for sharing.
I just bought my first welder and this method has raised more possibilities for my projects. Again. Thanks!
If cutting thru steel you just gotta make sure it's a carbide-tipped hole saw, otherwise it'll be useless after one or two uses. I personally prefer the annular cutters on a mag drill for thick steel and hole saws on thinner steel but that's just me.
Wasn't familiar with annual cutter until this video ! Thanks for sharing ! Also appreciate all the experienced advise and tips from others commenting !
Awesome. I was the same way about annular cutters until a couple years ago. They are a game changer for sure, thanks for watching
Helpful video. Thanks. Good and speedy where it need to be. Annular cutters obviously are the go. Hole saw bits I have used are a good lower cost option just make sure you don't use ones just for wood use. Big drill bits vibrate in smaller drill presses. RPM speed was also crucial information. Thumbs up.
As a point of experience, you don't need to step drill with a drill bit. Yes, it will go through faster if you have a pilot hole that is as large as the center web. It can actually be a detriment to step drill because 2 flute drills are not designed for enlarging holes and do not self center well. The margins also tend to wear more when enlarging a hole because the tip is not keeping it on center, thus causing the bit to wear out faster. Try plowing that big drill in without a clearance hole, then try it with just a 3/8 clearance hole. You also don't really need a spot with larger drills, the drill is stiff enough to keep on center. Maybe I'll do a video on this principle and also share some old-school tooling, an APT insert drill.
Agreed. It you have the torque and quill strength, lean on it. I don't always, but sometimes I do. In my lathe I step drill as to not wear out my hand lol.
eformance yes step drilling is a time waster. only remove enough with the pilot drill to relieve the center chisel point of the finish drill. progressively enlarging a hole just allows you to unwittingly over stress the drills cutting edge. there is less drill contact with the material allowing you to feel better about pushing down harder but still just as much force per inch being applied to the cutting edge.
True, however if your machine lacks the power to turn the larger bit (remember the larger cutting lips require more power) step drilling is probably the only option for the average size drill press.
I agree, I was taught that if you use a pilot hole go just barely bigger than the center web of you big bit. using a larger hole tends to chip the cutting edge where it contacts the edge of the pilot hole
Another problem with multiple-step drilling with big drills is you are more likely to spin a taper shank drill or chuck, and damage your spindle or tailstock taper bore, because Morse tapers rely on axial thrust being high in proportion to torque. When driving a big drill through a hole which is already quite big, you won't necessarily provide enough thrust resistance to keep the taper loaded (and locked) up, but the torque load is still substantial. The tang is not designed to transmit the torque required by a big drill, and it may shear off and allow the drill to spin.
That's a great demo. The first tool really did a great job thanks for sharing. GW
Very good video. Helps me out a lot. I've been doing woodworking so long I'd forgotten my metal basics. Slow the RPMs, machine oil liberally, plenty of pressure...wood is so easy in comparison. Thanks a ton. Only problem now is I want a Bridgeport! I used one a lot in college and man do I miss it. Hopefully I'll find one I can afford some day.
yes you are so right about drilling wood, so much easier. Is really unfortunate that most drill presses you buy today are made for wood and alot fo them will only run 600rpm on the slowest setting, which is way too fast for anything 1/2" or larger. thanks for watching and good luck on getting a bridgeport!
Excellent! Appreciate the time you spent doing this. Subbed.
How to drill plate 90mm thk i horizontal position, what equipment recomended tobe used?
I've used all three of these methods. I was floored he got the hole saw to go through as quickly as he did. I'd have been there 2x as long going through 3/4" plate, and it might be the first and last hole for the tool, even using a brand new bit. The annular cutter is well worth the money! Cuts like butter! Requires a strong/rigid setup. I don't have the shop this guy does by any means, but can't say enough about annular cutters. I use the rotabroach system for smaller holes in a handheld drill which is basically mini versions of the annular cutters. Again, cut like butter! Best investment you can make for your home shop! Those large drill bits tend to dull quickly, even with oil, and often you spend more time sharpening them than going through the material. Annular cutters solve this issue as they work more like a milling bit. It takes seconds to do what would take minutes. If you have many holes to drill, this can add up to hours of your day.
Great demonstration. Obviously the annular cutter didn't surprise anyone who is familiar with them, but most people aren't. I'm sure they all would have benefited from a dedicated coolant spray system, but if you're not familiar with these tooling options you probably don't have that anyway.
The twist drill run could definitely have been improved by 35 seconds by skipping the spotting drill. That's only necessary when really precise alignment is needed. A generous clearance hole surely doesn't need that kind of help.
As you said, going straight to a 1/2" bit might have helped. I like the DeWalt pilot point bits for that purpose. But anyone who is really needing to do this sort of thing quickly will get the annular cutters or consider their twist bits as consumables. Buy a bulk pack of 3/8" or 1/2" or whatever size is most appropriate for your repetitive tasks and send them off for dirt cheap sharpening as they dull, using the rest of the pack while you wait.
Some good points, thanks Jon
Jon Miller buy a wax bowl ring, place it where you want to drill, align, fill with water soluble oil and drill.
I guess if you keep wax rings on hand that might save some time, but if you have to go get one it definitely won't. And those things are huge mess.
Jon Miller clay will work too, even a simple ring of steel holds fluid to some degree.
akbychoice nice idea. I now have a ball of my kids plasticine in my toolbox
Hi Gary,
I use annular cutters any time I can. I feel they give you a much better hole. I always hold the bigger ones in a 3/4" collet and, as you found, they are much faster than other methods. Good video, Gary.
Take Care,
Reid
One thing that no one has mentioned is the plug. Only the annular drill produced a solid plug and scrap like that finds a use in my shop.
I assume you could leave the pilot drill bit out of the hole saw, it's really only necessary to keep the hole saw from wandering when your drilling by hand.
Thank you for the video. I was thinking about getting some silver and deming bits to drill steel with my small (5 amp) drill press, and once I saw your drill I figured it was probably a total pipe dream!
Great video, I have a question I will be cutting a 1 inch hole into 1.25 square stock. catch is it will be at about 20 deg off of normal to the surface. Any suggestions?
very interesting videos, do you have any experience on using an annular cutter on steel tubing?
The Annular cutter would have done it in have the time, if you were using a oil squirt can on it. All the stops to put oil on it slowed it down. Also when you use them in a mag drill you can fill them up with oil where it comes out automatically when the point hits the metal.
And I've also read that you don't want to peck drill an annular cutter either. It's harder on the tips or wears it out faster... but, yeah, that's why mag drills do constant flood coolant.
1970chevelle396 I agree that's what I do just you a bottle or an oil can and flood it with cutting oil. The whole brush thing is just a waste of time and I don't think it puts enough oil down in there.
MichaelKingsfordGray Sorry man, I just substantiated it with facts and sited my sources... From the inventor of the Mag Drill AND Annual Cutters. You are a little too late to the party with your late night smugness.
Its not nonsense lol. Every time you need to re-engage the work it damages the cutting edge especially if its carbide. Not as much of an issue with a twist drill as they are easily resharpened, but youll still see significant increase in wear by over-pecking.
You want a drill chip to come on in a nice helix until with begins to sag, break the chip by pecking and it should come flying out. If the chip is not long enough it has a much higher likelihood of birdnesting..
OK, it's really about the way the annular cutters work on the small scale. They are basically little planes going around in a circle picking up a shaving. What happens when you take a wood plane and in the middle of the stroke, you abruptly lift off the plane? You end up with a ridge where the knife edge didn't complete the cut. Well when you have an annular cutter, and up to 10-12 mini planes spinning around, all trying to shave up one long continuous ribbon of metal right behind the proceeding ribbon of metal... then if you pull up the cutter, and re-engage, you will basically be ramming sharp leading plane edges into possibly 12 metal ridges left by the previous cut.
Thanks for posting, that was very helpful.
I'll settle for the 6 to 7 minutes with the hole saw any day of the week.
Great Video. Five Stars.
Neat comparison. I mainly have used hole saws in this situation and find that after one or two holes the saw is pretty well done for. They aren't made for this type of application. Thanks for sharing Gary. I always enjoy/appreciate your content.
Most are drilling too fast and with insufficient down pressure and without enough cutting(cooling) fluid.
Most drill and drill presses run too fast and/or have little torque at low speeds.
The proper solution is a very expensive drill press designed for metals or a mag drill, or a drill/mill.
Old vintage drill presses are easier to gear down, but can still be expensive, and very heavy.
I bought a triple gear reduction hand drill so I can drill more slowly in metal and purchased a drill stand. It is possible my hand drill could catch in metal and twist this stand apart 😞
I do have another option; I have an old post drill press. Needs a bit of repair, but it is hand operated and you can go as slow as you want. Has an odd chuck though. I would need to attach a Jacobs type chuck to get good use out of it. You can drill slowly and produce little heat. Probably why the 100+ year old bits still exist. Many have been sharpened over and over and are very short lol
Thx for another interesting video, keep it up!
Interesting shootout Gary. I think doing these types of things with the setup/tooling you are going to use for the job is really smart because it will point out things that you may not have considered otherwise. I'm thinking of the chips generated by the annular cutter. I would not have thought of those as being a potential issue, but if you're doing a lot of holes then I could see it costing time.
Thank you so much sir I learnt a lot from your video extremely obliged
great vid
Also you can drill a hole inside the od of the hole saw hole for chips to fall through as you cut.
that is what I was going to add till I saw your post
Great Video! If you drill a through-hole just inside the perimeter before using the hole saw, then you don't need to peck drill and you have a hole down which swarf will evacuate automatically; you just keep it lubricated from the top.
Any comparison of dimensional accuracy of the hole? My experience hole saws are sloppy.
That's what reamers and boring heads are for.
Good comparison. I use annular cutters alot in a mag drill and tend to find you can push them pretty hard, i use any pure oil to hand to keep them cool and when you hit that frying sound you can fairly send them in. Personally i think they cut better this way rather than lifting out and restarting the cut. Just my way..
It has been my standard practice to just drill a hole slightly larger than the tip of the desired large drill bit. It is surprising how well it works. My Uncle told me about that 20 years ago, hasn't failed me yet. More tools means more time. Pilot hole then finish size...
Good comparison video. I wonder, would you be able to give an approximate price comparison for the 3 different cutters you used?
At work we do use the annular cutter regularly, however we’re using them on a mag drill. The Hougen’s are freaking hauling ass turning those things. The Slugger and Milwaukee do have speed adjustments on them, could be wrong but even on there lowerest speed their turning faster then 220. Do agree with you on stepping up in smaller steps on getting to the bigger drill big, it takes a little longer but it’s easier on the bit and your not having to put as much pressure to drill the hole. Was taught years ago, light pressure on the bit, lots of oil let the bit do the work, and they last a long time and it has always seemed to work well. However have seen guys try to put there whole body weight on a drill bit, and burn up a 3/4 drill bit drilling one hole in some 1” plate.
Great job man.
good video do u have video how to drill 4mm shaft steel make hole in
very good video,I have certainly learnt a lot.
Good demonstration.
Good to know slower is better, especially for a piece that weighs more than my drill press.
annular cutter all the way, the reason? On under powered equipment, they just work better. Most decent drill presses or small mills will run that size annular cutter but not the twist drill. Also, for the annular cutter, if you are using it in a mill that uses R8 collets, get a R8 3/4 end mill holder and cut is down and make a dedicated annular cutter holder.
All annular cutters have a 3/4 shank size so after you make the dedicated annular cutter holder it works for any annular cutter size. I just made one and then used a 1.5" annular cutter on 1-1/2 inch cold roll using a bench top under powered mill and it worked fine, though I had to go slower and keep it lubed.
That little bench top mill would not have done well with that huge twist drill. Forget the hole saws, unless you get a really high quality one they suck and then will only be good for one hole. Hole saws, use them for thin gauge steel only.
That big mill this guy had would handle anything but many of us don't have a mill like that.
I now try and look out on ebay for deals on annular cutters and snag them when ever I find a deal on a size I don't have that is above 3/4" and is 2" long. Don't even bother with the shorter ones, buy 2" min length so you can drill deep when you need to.
This tells me exactly what I need to know,..Thanks.
Thanks Reg
Brilliant video thank u
What adapter did you use for the annular bit?
Good videos, a annular is perfect for non critical holes. If you want fast accurate holes you want a T/A bit, followed by a reemer. A T/a Bit is a drill bit with a replaceable tip, they can be tailored to the thousandths. The best thing I there fast & each parent bit can exept many sizes, It's the only way to go. I have been a production machinist for 30 years & learned this the hard way. Your video reminded me of that.
very nice man. I agree with feeding a little faster with the annular bits. they do give off great chips if you feed right. I keep a whole set in my box at work cuz all the yahoo's frig up the shop ones. mine stay sharp and I get great chips and super fast holes.
Great; well explained!
Thanks
Thanks man
Howdy. Can you give me some advice? How do I enlarge the hole in a piece of thick metal of about 3 cm with a normal electric hand drill, with a 26mm drill bit?. Thank you
GREAT VIDEO VERY EDUCATIONAL THANKS
the slugger bit hands down is the fastest, I use them everyday at work
@@softjones3128 sorry for the delayed reply, our annular bits generally start at 9/16" and go up to 2". They do go larger and smaller but that's just what we use. Our most common used is 13/16". Regular twist bits don't last a fraction of what annular bits
Good morning Gary, one thing you didn't mention was the finish of the hole which could be important depending on the job it's used for. Also the hole-saw isn't going to last through too many of those deep holes, but for the average diy'er it's the only affordable option. Good video, I've missed a bunch due to illness and hospital stay but I'm catching up.
What cutting oil do you use?
Be nice to have a link for the annular hole saw
excellent video! thank you! having a fixed air jet setup blowing on the cut would have sped you up some. clear and concise!!
You are right, thank you sir
What about the surface finish? How do they compare?
Yep, love those annular cutters that get used on magnetic base drills, they go through steel like butter. Better accuracy too. Flood coolant really helps with keeping the tools cool. I've got an old set of really crappy Chinese drill bits up to 25mm but they are still going after 20 years (and some sharpening LOL) because I use flood coolant and keep the rpm down. The flood coolant also really helps with the hole saws, not only with cooling but with the chip evacuation.
Good comparison Gary but I had the same question as Bill Shamblin which you replied to. Thanks buddy
These angular drill bits are a beast. They are brutal. I stop at 3:45 and I would have to agree. You ran the machine just right for the cut. Not hard and plenty lubricant. You will preserve the life of the drill bits. Well, you would get more life and or uses from the bit. Also not as much stress on the drill press. In saying that, these bits will require a decent drill press. I will watch the rest of the video . Thanks for the upload.
Awesome video, I've been dealing with this myself. I have a 1.25" thick plate I need to put 1.81" hole in. I tried an annual cutter but it vibrates and rattles my machine like crazy, I'm working on finding the fastest way. Thanks for video.
nice testing ,,, tks
Interesting stuff Gary.
Will these annualar bits work in a hand drill as well..i need something to cut holes in hardened steel when making tractor attchments,,trying to drill holes in front loader bucket is a chore
get a mag drill... these will not work in a hand drill, they need alot of torque and down force.
Are you using a basic cutting oil or something different?
How tha call to buy a kit on ebay?
Thanks by your video. With the first and last method You get a cylinder that you can use for example: making little pieces in the lathe.
I need a set of those cutters. Angular cutters. I looked them up pricey but time is $.
Thanks for the video, haven’t herd of these cutters but there going on my wish list.
Do you think the first bit would work with a homedepot drill press?
One suggestion on the hole saw. Drill two 1/4" holes 180 degrees apart on the inside of the circle the will allow the chips to evacuate down through the holes and out the bottom of the work. This speeds up the cutting escpecially when using the larger diameter hole saws. Use lots of motor oil to keep it cool and watch the chips come out the bottom....Great video...Thank you
Damn that machine has got some torque!
Hello i have a problem on a job the 1" hole in my steel plate needs to be rheemed out by at least a 1/4 to 3/8 bigger. Any ideas how I can do this on site? I am a carpenter setting 4 large steel columns.. thank you for your help
Straight body reamers generally won't ream out something 1/4". You need to drill your hole slightly undersized, and ream it out to final size. if its on a job site, use a Mag Drill, you may can rent one
I'd love to see the runout on these holes, speed is important but also how good is the hole? Just from the shots it looked like the hole saw had a really rough finish on the outside, and I can't imagine a tool that light is particularly rigid. I'd expect the twist drill to be really straight, and have a good finish, but because of all the intermediate drillings it's position is probably difficult to control precisely. The annular cutter should have a pretty good finish and be self centering, but since you can't spot-drill it I can't make an argument for how precisely it starts, though the rigidity would help.
Anyway, just saying I'd love to see these blocks trammed up and have a needle gone over those holes; might be difficult to film so I'd be happy with numbers.
I cry for twist drills
Thank you!!!
Thanks
You could use a 1" chip brush, it holds a lot more cutting fluid and I lather -up the whole tool and the hole also.
Is this even a contest! Hammer and nail win every time
Nice. I expected the annular cutter to win because 1. It had chip evacuation and 2. It removed a slug, it didn't turn the material to chips. I was surprised that the hole saw beat the twist drill actually. Considering the hole saw has atrocious chip evacuation. And I wasn't expecting so many bit changes for the twist drill. However the problem with not changing bits is that you're forcing the bit to to scoop away more material which requires more torque from the machine. Overall a great test.
I liked the comparison, but I think the annular cutter would have really shined even more with a spray mist setup, that goes for the twist drill also. As far as the twist drill goes, just pilot one bit slightly larger than the chisel point of the bit, then go for the large bit. If you had the spray mist it would have been almost as fast as the annular cutter. You lose a lot of time retracting the bit to lube it. The annular cutter really gets to be cost effective when you get into larger holes that can only be done with a hole saw otherwise, but they ain't cheap. Hole saws kinda suck for cutting metal, but they do make carbide tipped hole saws with less teeth and chip clearing grooves. I haven't tried the carbide hole saws yet, but I'll bet they'd be a nice compromise for cutting speed vs cost of an annular cutter.
You should look into a noga mini cool or equivalent for flood/mist coolant and chip clearing
i have one, just wasnt using it in this video, and its not a great solution to use with an annular cutter, those long stringy chips just end up knocking it out of the way
Why dont you use soluble coolant ?
The real test, stainless steel!
(genuine question) why? Because it's harder?
I drill 2 holes inside the hole area opposite to each other before running the hole saw. Chips just drop down and you have a lot less stopping to clear chips. On most cases I have to come back on the lathe or mill with a boring bar to clean up the surface.
Do you think any of these methods could be used on a hand drill if thats all you had
Yes, you could make it work. Checkout Pakastani truck on youtube, those guys drill thousands of holes with a hand drill in 1/4" plate on one of their trucks. Takes 2 guys. One running the drill, one applying hte pressure with a clever rig they have setup. I have drilled holes in thick metal with a hand drill and a long woodworking clamp to provide the pressure.
Nice job Gary! I appreciate the efforts you went to. Who knew I could learn something interesting like this, in bed late at night, with my wife snoozing next to me!?
I bought some off ebay too. Best hole boring tools even cut a part of a hole on a edge scallop try that with just avdrill bit even hole saws walk on a cut like that. Makes grip notches easy. Plus magnet drill press makes plate drilling quick.
Could you link up to the ebay listing for the bit you have in the first test? Seeing a bunch of thin hole bits that do not look substantial like the bit you showed and used early in this vid.
Just search amazon or eBay for "rotabroach cutter kit" and you will see some options
Nevermind, saw it down thread: Annular cutter.
where is the video of the copy of a Brandner Designs table that you are making?
Brandner Designs? I am not sure about this, I just saw a pic of a table on pinterest and thought it was cool... I havent' finished the video yet. Its a work in progress. I won't be selling full tables, only the plasma cut plates as a kit that can either be welded or bolted together, customer makes their own table top, center beam, etc
I have never come across an annular drill before. Looks as though it would work well for tube notching? Does it fit in a regular chuck?
Most have a 3/4 weldon shank
Tyler Reid Exactly. 3/4" at least in part because they don't fit in almost any widely available drill chucks. You need a really good hold on it for the torque that all of those teeth require. You could damage your chuck trying to tighten it enough (if you even had one big enough) to work. Collets or end mill holders are best.
Liquid coolant on the first bit you could've been through it in 20 seconds, sure some don't have that but they should
@@softjones3128 CRC drill bit oil
True tap cutting fluid, is the actual name (CRC)
I use carbide tipped drills at work 1 inch plate 90 sec taking it easy
Thks
There is another way to drill large holes from 1/2" thru 3/4" then 3/4" thru 2" and all sizes in between with the one drill set. It is a simple boring bar set designed for use in a drill press, it is made locally in Australia and works well. It allows home handymen to drill a variety of neat holes with only a single $200 drill set. I bought mine at a trade show but they are available on eBay.
Nice experience
The time it took to get the plug out should have been added to the time. I have never used an annular, I did notice that there is I hole in the top. Is it threaded for a bolt/screw or do you just have to knock it out with a rod/nail and hammer?
thomptre the hole in the top is for a pin to line the cutter up with a pop mark in a mag drill there is a spring which pushes on the pin and ejects the slug
I couldn't talk my brother into trying this on his mill, so I'll just tell you my idea for drilling that hole faster with a hole saw. You have to do 2 things different. First remove the center drill from the hole saw (you don't need it when using a mill) That won't speed the cut up much, but this should. Drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole that is almost tangent with what will be the inside edge of your large hole. Now you have a path for the chips to clear, just be sure to use a thinner coolant, and use more of it.
interesting..thanks
Why tighten the chuck in all 3 locations? It all tightens the same thing correct? That's why you only need to loosen it at one point, or am I missing something?
Try it yourself. Once you've tightened in one location, move to the next and the next, and you'll notice you can tighten it a bit more each time.
try using some high temp grease there?