In France we have a relatively complicated slow-driving exam, that makes you do that. You simply can't pass it without proper clutch control, except if you're rear brake magician.
Hum not really. If you simply stay around the biting point even without braking, that exam is easy. Let go and it is already slow enough to pass it. The ones who struggle are the one who do the jerky move like he showed.
@@daiblaze1396 Are you talking about "parcours lent"? Because if you are, I don't see how you may "let go" your clutch and pass it without braking, since you're faster than you should be. In this part of exam you must exceed a certain amount of time during your course. If you're couple seconds faster - you're done. And even if you're using all available space you won't make it on free clutch without rear braking. I would like to see a demo otherwise. Anyways my point was that you must have proper clutch control to pass it. And that is exactly why this slow driving part of exam exists: to teach you how to use your clutch, rear brakes and improve your slow pace maneuvering.
@@TheLuvecerviereYes talking about "parcours lent" mon pti françois 😉 When I wrote "let go" I didn't mean let got of the clutch. Of course it is too fast then and not the objective of this exercice. My "let go" meant "as soon as the bike moves, let it go, just steer gently while keeping the clutch in the same position". There is no need of doing these subtles finger moves nor braking to pass this exam. However it is better if someone does it. I am a motorbike instructor in France. My point was only to insist that the skill showed in his video is not mandatory there. If people were simply trying to avoid the jerky clutch, it would be marvellous... Roule ma poule!
@@daiblaze1396 Oh, righty then. Letting go was quite an ambiguous term in that context. At least for me ;) Since you're an instructor, I'm just curious how did you end up on this channel? You were looking for some material for your students, or simply got this recommended randomly? Or something else has happened?
Hey there I'm an instructor aswell, but a german one. ✌️ Sometimes it is just boredom the leads us here and sometimes we're just in the mood to wathch some proper technique stuff. If you like your job, it becomes quite the hobby you know. 😉
I find it very hard to find the the biting point if have let go of the clutch. If I start from a stop and do slow speed stuff it's easier because I started out by finding the biting point and kept my fingers on the clutch. But doing it on the fly is hard. Also, I find it hard to keep a constant throttle when simultaneously steering when I do larger steering inputs. Guess I just have to practice more. Thanks for your great videos. Cheers.
Great tip! I often will play with the clutch's biting point at red lights on flat ground- kinda rock the bike back and forth. It also helps in the case where I expect a fast launch. And it's useful to engage it on uphill starts 😉
@@AmbaMerlinson Of course. And so for those who were also acting instinctually but doing so incorrectly should take note of this video as I did to determine if a correction is needed. In my case, none needed.
I always use the quick shift method now that you previously taught. Which is basically like clutchless shifting but with a very small clutch in to aid smoothness.
just dropped my bike for the first time yesterday because of this!! I was doing circles and 8s in a dead street, tried adding more lean angle and couldn't recover fast enough with the clutch bc I was pulling it all the way in and doing jerky movements. Thanks for the video tho! If it wasn't for this channel I wouldn't even be training this kind of stuff, or I would be doing way worse either way. the bike got some minor scratches to clutch lever and mirror in case you're wondering.
Hello, love the details in the video (camera angles too)... I usually dont like to keep the clutch engaged while the wheels are moving (Unless absolutely required), I dont want to harm the clutch plates. Is my understanding correct? That clutch being used while in motion is burning the plates.
I'm assuming by "engaged" you mean handle pulled in, which would normally be called "disengaged" as it disconnects the engine from the wheels? You're not harming the clutch unless you're staying in the friction zone for a long time, and since most brakes use wet clutches even then it takes a lot of abuse before your plates start burning, since they are being cooled by the oil.
@@kamnxt so here in Bangalore, busiest roads in India, that clutch takes a lot of abuse in the B2B traffic. It’s a common sight to see breakdowns (people burning their plates) in hilly area. That’s because hours of driving like that puts so much heat and pressure.
Hi Andre. Great video, as always. Listening to the terminology , can you explain the difference or association between 'Biting Point' and "Friction Zone", please?
Yes, it's easy! The biting point is a point where the clutch just starts to engage and pull the bike forward. Everything after that point until you release the clutch completely is the friction zone.
@@MotoControlEn Thanks Andre. That makes it clear. I'm an IT instructor and terminology can be a point of confusion for learners. So, being able to explain it helps. 😁
Any tips with accidentally going to Neutral from 2nd gear. I really struggle with it while slowing down in traffic to 1st gear. I'm quite new in riding btw. 😅
Hi, I'm a new rider and recently discovered your channel. I learnt a lot of information from you. However, I rarely see you riding a sports bike. I learnt to ride on a 155cc Yamaha R15S. Can you make a video using a sports bike, especially about slow speed turning and leaning on curves?
I used to use friction zone at slow speeds all the time, but these days I tend to just leave it in first and use the brake if I need to slow down for a moment, and gas if I need to straighten up the bike, of course. Probably not good technique, but I just don't end up needing it? Maybe because I don't ride as slowly. I do use it at _very_ slow speeds still, but not when I'm riding around cones and stuff. I'm definitely going to try it for launches soon, though!
It's the same with manual shift cars especially if you're driving in mountainous environment. Keeping the clutch just beyond the biting point will also help beginner car from stalling or jerky Starts.
Honestly, I hoped the video will be related to the thumbnail picture because it's similar to what I do with my right hand - thumb+index on throttle and the rest on brake.
I am a beginner and i practice on a 150 cc bike. I am having problems when performing quick overtakes like how many gears i should downshift in order to perform a quick overtake. I have doubt in my mind if I can perform the overtake safely or not. I think I am confused with the speed and acceleration of each gears. Can u help me out do u have a video on this topic ?
Is that not pull all the way in the clutch when switching gear (neutral to 1st) bad for bike ? Or we just need to pull it slightly pass the biting point and switch gear is ok ?
One question: should I apply throttle simultaneously releasing clutch or I should apply little throttle before releasing the clutch, can you explain me how these 2 situation works
Both is technicaly correct, I think The first method is smoother and tell you have skill with that biting point. Second one is comon in begginer (when i learned i did it tho- i rev it and slowly realsed clutch) or i think if you have weight behind you, or steeper hill.
On my previous Duke 390 and Kawasaki KLX250 which were used as school bikes almost every day I haven't had to replace the clutch, so for 99% of riders it's enough clutch disk life if used properly
As he says. If I'm in 1st gear at very slow speed in traffic and need to accelerate, I'll pull the clutch a little, throttle up and gently slip out the clutch. Sometimes I just keep slipping it at low speed.
There are 2 techniques, which can help you, depending on the speed, here are 2 vids about them: th-cam.com/video/M06ZJm0RJbE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/S36MgsVsHsA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=I5vmYg2umMiBl6S7
I use a slightly different method. Say that it takes 2 pounds of force to pull the lever a little bit, and 4 pounds of force to pull the lever all the way in. At the red light, I pull the lever all the way in, but when the light turns green, I only pull with 3 pounds of force. This way the lever goes almost immediately into the friction zone. The bike is always moving before the cars start to move.
It's called friction zone... After decades of driving, I have an excellent "muscle memory" on my left foot in controlling de clutch. Now I am educating my left hand fingers to do the same... And that foot to shift up and down... And the right hand to fine control gas and the damn front brake😂
@@MotoControlEn What you're calling "bite point" is the very start point of the friction zone. And the "distance" from that point to the point where the clutch is completely engaged is the so called the friction zone. And "playing" with the clutch along it, allowes the fine control of the transmission of the engine power to the rear wheel. Combined with throttle and brake control it gives large possibilities for maneuvering the bike.
@@maalikserebryakovIt's like to tell that it's wrong to call the snake's head "head" because it's a part of a whole snake, so it must be called "snake" regardless of which part of it I'm talking about😅 In this video I wanted to make a specific accent on the biting point (engagement point) and how we can use our clutch around this biting point, going in and out of the friction zone. The rest of the friction zone has its own video
Ignore them and move out of their way. They can not crash into you if they are in front of you. But they can cut you off or rear end you if you are in front of them. Slow down enough to let them by and let them get far ahead of you. Better to arrive 1 minute later than to not arrive because some idiot crashes into you.
You get more control but also, with such tiny movements, you spend more time on the friction zone with more wear and burn risk for the disk clutch. There’s always pros and cons for everything!
So just to be clear: you're supposed to never fully release the clutch while riding, but keep the lever pulled all the time around the biting point (either in the friction zone or before the biting point)??
@@MotoControlEn Ah, okay, I was confused and thought you meant not only slow-speed maneuvers, but ALL the time... which wouldn't be so erm.. good😅 Thx for clearing that up, Andrey! Love your channel btw!
Yeah, it's a wet clutch and for me, starting out, it was a weird concept. Not used to it but it really helped me get better at throttle/clutch control..
Sometimes in my commute I have to slip the clutch constantly going uphill (15% grade) at about 3 mph in traffic for about 1/2 mile. My clutch is still fine :)
I am totally confused . A lot of people say either press full clutch or don't press the clutch . And other people like u say to use the clutch back and forth within the friction zone. The former group of people say that the later technique will ruin your clutch plates. What's the correct way to use clutch
Sure! The biting point is a point where the clutch just starts to engage and pull the bike forward. Everything after that point until you release the clutch completely is the friction zone.
In France we have a relatively complicated slow-driving exam, that makes you do that. You simply can't pass it without proper clutch control, except if you're rear brake magician.
Hum not really.
If you simply stay around the biting point even without braking, that exam is easy.
Let go and it is already slow enough to pass it.
The ones who struggle are the one who do the jerky move like he showed.
@@daiblaze1396 Are you talking about "parcours lent"? Because if you are, I don't see how you may "let go" your clutch and pass it without braking, since you're faster than you should be. In this part of exam you must exceed a certain amount of time during your course. If you're couple seconds faster - you're done. And even if you're using all available space you won't make it on free clutch without rear braking.
I would like to see a demo otherwise.
Anyways my point was that you must have proper clutch control to pass it. And that is exactly why this slow driving part of exam exists: to teach you how to use your clutch, rear brakes and improve your slow pace maneuvering.
@@TheLuvecerviereYes talking about "parcours lent" mon pti françois 😉
When I wrote "let go" I didn't mean let got of the clutch. Of course it is too fast then and not the objective of this exercice.
My "let go" meant "as soon as the bike moves, let it go, just steer gently while keeping the clutch in the same position". There is no need of doing these subtles finger moves nor braking to pass this exam. However it is better if someone does it.
I am a motorbike instructor in France. My point was only to insist that the skill showed in his video is not mandatory there.
If people were simply trying to avoid the jerky clutch, it would be marvellous...
Roule ma poule!
@@daiblaze1396 Oh, righty then.
Letting go was quite an ambiguous term in that context. At least for me ;)
Since you're an instructor, I'm just curious how did you end up on this channel? You were looking for some material for your students, or simply got this recommended randomly? Or something else has happened?
Hey there I'm an instructor aswell, but a german one. ✌️
Sometimes it is just boredom the leads us here and sometimes we're just in the mood to wathch some proper technique stuff. If you like your job, it becomes quite the hobby you know. 😉
Learning and using the clutch friction-zone is a critical skill every rider should master.
I find it very hard to find the the biting point if have let go of the clutch. If I start from a stop and do slow speed stuff it's easier because I started out by finding the biting point and kept my fingers on the clutch. But doing it on the fly is hard. Also, I find it hard to keep a constant throttle when simultaneously steering when I do larger steering inputs. Guess I just have to practice more. Thanks for your great videos. Cheers.
You stole my comment, so OK you beat me to it 😂
I think he has a video about throttle control, might be worth checking also
Great tip! I often will play with the clutch's biting point at red lights on flat ground- kinda rock the bike back and forth. It also helps in the case where I expect a fast launch. And it's useful to engage it on uphill starts 😉
Just want to say how happy i am for finding this channel. Very useful tips when you're teaching yourself how to ride :)
Love your channel! I practice this a lot. It's amazing how it smooths thing out.
An incredible camera work 😍 Вырос, респект!!!
Consistently awesome instruction
I Love watching (and practicing your techniques) my Friend!! Keep up your good work and Humor!! Thanks for your work.
did an enduro workshop couple of months back. We ground the clutch all the time! Since then my riding was so much smoother.
I find myself doing this technique naturally. Terrific advice.
some riders dont know countersteering.
and never understand the reason of their impact.
not everybody has the gift to learn this himself.
@@AmbaMerlinson Of course. And so for those who were also acting instinctually but doing so incorrectly should take note of this video as I did to determine if a correction is needed. In my case, none needed.
Clutch and throttle control are everything
Very neatly explained Andrei.
LOVE you Bodrov sir
You are a wonderful friend and a great teacher ❤️❤️❤️
I always use the quick shift method now that you previously taught. Which is basically like clutchless shifting but with a very small clutch in to aid smoothness.
thanks for the video will definitely forward it to my learning friends your information is gold!
just dropped my bike for the first time yesterday because of this!! I was doing circles and 8s in a dead street, tried adding more lean angle and couldn't recover fast enough with the clutch bc I was pulling it all the way in and doing jerky movements. Thanks for the video tho! If it wasn't for this channel I wouldn't even be training this kind of stuff, or I would be doing way worse either way.
the bike got some minor scratches to clutch lever and mirror in case you're wondering.
Let your bike wear its scars with pride😁
Excellent, advice always
Good tips Sir thanks.
Hello, love the details in the video (camera angles too)... I usually dont like to keep the clutch engaged while the wheels are moving (Unless absolutely required), I dont want to harm the clutch plates. Is my understanding correct? That clutch being used while in motion is burning the plates.
I'm assuming by "engaged" you mean handle pulled in, which would normally be called "disengaged" as it disconnects the engine from the wheels? You're not harming the clutch unless you're staying in the friction zone for a long time, and since most brakes use wet clutches even then it takes a lot of abuse before your plates start burning, since they are being cooled by the oil.
Yes it does, just as the rest of wearable items, like tires or brake pads😉
@@kamnxt so here in Bangalore, busiest roads in India, that clutch takes a lot of abuse in the B2B traffic. It’s a common sight to see breakdowns (people burning their plates) in hilly area. That’s because hours of driving like that puts so much heat and pressure.
@@MotoControlEn it depends on the conditions one is riding under.
Hi Andre. Great video, as always.
Listening to the terminology , can you explain the difference or association between 'Biting Point' and "Friction Zone", please?
Yes, it's easy! The biting point is a point where the clutch just starts to engage and pull the bike forward. Everything after that point until you release the clutch completely is the friction zone.
@@MotoControlEn
Thanks Andre. That makes it clear. I'm an IT instructor and terminology can be a point of confusion for learners. So, being able to explain it helps. 😁
Any tips with accidentally going to Neutral from 2nd gear. I really struggle with it while slowing down in traffic to 1st gear. I'm quite new in riding btw. 😅
Ugh, I've been riding a while and I still do this from time to time on my DL1000.
Apply more force to the shifter, it usually likes a bit of extra umph😁
Soo….the clutch is able to engage and disengage by using the lever? WOW! YOU ARE A GENIUS!
Liked yourself, aren't ya?😉
@@MotoControlEn No I not a genius.
Hi, I'm a new rider and recently discovered your channel. I learnt a lot of information from you. However, I rarely see you riding a sports bike. I learnt to ride on a 155cc Yamaha R15S. Can you make a video using a sports bike, especially about slow speed turning and leaning on curves?
I would like to, but I don't have a sportbike. As soon as I get one - I promise to make a whole bunch of videos about it!
@@MotoControlEnyeah! A sports bike sire! I would love that and the others will as well!
I used to use friction zone at slow speeds all the time, but these days I tend to just leave it in first and use the brake if I need to slow down for a moment, and gas if I need to straighten up the bike, of course.
Probably not good technique, but I just don't end up needing it? Maybe because I don't ride as slowly. I do use it at _very_ slow speeds still, but not when I'm riding around cones and stuff.
I'm definitely going to try it for launches soon, though!
That's exactly how it should be, the way you ride depends on the speed you choose🙂 My next video will be about this topic
Taking the test tomorrow... Wish me luck!
Good luck!!
@@MotoControlEn I did it!!
My Clutch Hand is STRONG - Yet Many Riders i know don't know what U hv shared !!
Very helpful 🤙🏽
It's the same with manual shift cars especially if you're driving in mountainous environment. Keeping the clutch just beyond the biting point will also help beginner car from stalling or jerky Starts.
Honestly, I hoped the video will be related to the thumbnail picture because it's similar to what I do with my right hand - thumb+index on throttle and the rest on brake.
It's a personal preference thing, I did the same grip on VN1700 because of levers configuration
I am a beginner and i practice on a 150 cc bike. I am having problems when performing quick overtakes like how many gears i should downshift in order to perform a quick overtake. I have doubt in my mind if I can perform the overtake safely or not. I think I am confused with the speed and acceleration of each gears. Can u help me out do u have a video on this topic ?
sweet tips.
Is that not pull all the way in the clutch when switching gear (neutral to 1st) bad for bike ? Or we just need to pull it slightly pass the biting point and switch gear is ok ?
Bro you make it look so easy lol
Superb
One question: should I apply throttle simultaneously releasing clutch or I should apply little throttle before releasing the clutch, can you explain me how these 2 situation works
Both is technicaly correct, I think
The first method is smoother and tell you have skill with that biting point.
Second one is comon in begginer (when i learned i did it tho- i rev it and slowly realsed clutch) or i think if you have weight behind you, or steeper hill.
Hey man are you from transylvania?
Is it ok to release the clutch slowly when down shifting at speed?
Of course, it's usually what we do unless we're rev matching
@@MotoControlEn i read that is is superior to rev matching since rev matching is only efficient with a autobleeper. Is that true?
The down side to slipping the clutch is shortened life. How often do find it necessary to replace the clutch disks on your KTM?
On my previous Duke 390 and Kawasaki KLX250 which were used as school bikes almost every day I haven't had to replace the clutch, so for 99% of riders it's enough clutch disk life if used properly
That is better clutch durability than I would have expected. Thank you for your helpful reply!@@MotoControlEn
On and off throttle input in 1st gear are really Jerk for me, can you help me with a tip.
Keep throttle (RPM) constant, and use the clutch friction-zone as shown in the video to control the power to the rear wheel.
As he says. If I'm in 1st gear at very slow speed in traffic and need to accelerate, I'll pull the clutch a little, throttle up and gently slip out the clutch. Sometimes I just keep slipping it at low speed.
There are 2 techniques, which can help you, depending on the speed, here are 2 vids about them: th-cam.com/video/M06ZJm0RJbE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/S36MgsVsHsA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=I5vmYg2umMiBl6S7
This is the most basic thing.
Gd. 👍
I’ve got a short lever and short fingers lol. What tips can you suggest?
You can get adjustable levers and adjust them to be closer to the handlebars!
I use a slightly different method. Say that it takes 2 pounds of force to pull the lever a little bit, and 4 pounds of force to pull the lever all the way in.
At the red light, I pull the lever all the way in, but when the light turns green, I only pull with 3 pounds of force. This way the lever goes almost immediately into the friction zone. The bike is always moving before the cars start to move.
Such a small detail, but with huge impact
대단히 감사합니다.ㅎ
some people say it will burn clutch plates
0:55 clutch will wear out quickly
No, it will not
And pretension the shift lever
So deep technique under just 3 min
Thank you for this video. I am definitely going ro practice this technique. I am The Queen of Jerky 😂😂
😅and I'm king specially riding with pillon
It's called friction zone... After decades of driving, I have an excellent "muscle memory" on my left foot in controlling de clutch. Now I am educating my left hand fingers to do the same... And that foot to shift up and down... And the right hand to fine control gas and the damn front brake😂
No it's not...
@@MotoControlEn Yes, it is.
@@1zanglang No, it is just the biting point, the friction zone is everything past it😉
@@MotoControlEn What you're calling "bite point" is the very start point of the friction zone. And the "distance" from that point to the point where the clutch is completely engaged is the so called the friction zone. And "playing" with the clutch along it, allowes the fine control of the transmission of the engine power to the rear wheel. Combined with throttle and brake control it gives large possibilities for maneuvering the bike.
@@maalikserebryakovIt's like to tell that it's wrong to call the snake's head "head" because it's a part of a whole snake, so it must be called "snake" regardless of which part of it I'm talking about😅 In this video I wanted to make a specific accent on the biting point (engagement point) and how we can use our clutch around this biting point, going in and out of the friction zone. The rest of the friction zone has its own video
How do you deal with aggressive drivers.
Ignore them and move out of their way. They can not crash into you if they are in front of you. But they can cut you off or rear end you if you are in front of them. Slow down enough to let them by and let them get far ahead of you. Better to arrive 1 minute later than to not arrive because some idiot crashes into you.
With a 9mm😆 But seriously - by going away from them, either by speeding up, slowing down or changing lanes, depending on particular situation.
I'm new rider I hope it will be useful for me 😅
You gonna burn up that clutch! LOL
Bet you 1000$ that I will not😁
@@MotoControlEn If I'm doing it, she gonna melt like chocolate.
You get more control but also, with such tiny movements, you spend more time on the friction zone with more wear and burn risk for the disk clutch. There’s always pros and cons for everything!
So just to be clear: you're supposed to never fully release the clutch while riding, but keep the lever pulled all the time around the biting point (either in the friction zone or before the biting point)??
While making slow-speed maneuvers? Yes!
@@MotoControlEn Ah, okay, I was confused and thought you meant not only slow-speed maneuvers, but ALL the time... which wouldn't be so erm.. good😅 Thx for clearing that up, Andrey! Love your channel btw!
I wish I had so soft clutch lever pull 🤣 ps hydraulic clutch, cannot be done anything it is stiff from factory…
Use 4 fingers then😉
Practice practice
so you want us to ride motorcycle in half clutch?
Yeah, it's a wet clutch and for me, starting out, it was a weird concept. Not used to it but it really helped me get better at throttle/clutch control..
Wont this burn the clutch, one of the first things you learn in a car is not to ride the clutch.
Here is ho to prevent it: th-cam.com/video/2fUA8kv1rGs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_HxRdYv7AZBIROEw
Ride the clutch and quickly pulling and releasing are different things
Motorcycles typically have "wet clutches", which are designed for this purpose of riding the clutch friction zone.
Sometimes in my commute I have to slip the clutch constantly going uphill (15% grade) at about 3 mph in traffic for about 1/2 mile. My clutch is still fine :)
I am totally confused . A lot of people say either press full clutch or don't press the clutch . And other people like u say to use the clutch back and forth within the friction zone. The former group of people say that the later technique will ruin your clutch plates. What's the correct way to use clutch
0:00 Holaaaaa
What bike is that?
*Friction zone or BITING POINT? You tell me!*
Sure! The biting point is a point where the clutch just starts to engage and pull the bike forward. Everything after that point until you release the clutch completely is the friction zone.