Years ago my wife and I were sitting at a signal, her on sportster, I on road king. Speed limit on this road is 45mp, and we had 6 cars behind us. I had taught her to keep in gear. Was a lazy warm Sunday morning. Well, guy in car 7 drunk/fell asleep , I heard the impact and yelled “go” we both shot safely thru the intersection, as groceries and car parts went with us! We pulled over, walked back. Unfortunately, drivers in car 5 and 6, as well as the driver who did not slow down, all died at the scene . Car behind us was pushed across the intersection , my wife and I made it unscathed. This was on Monterey Road in Gilroy California, which is known as blood Alley. Best advice in this video, stay in gear and keep head turning and know 360 degrees what’s going on around you . Ride safe!
glad you and wife made it out and can share your experiences with the rest of the world! Rip to those that didn't make it and I pray God continues to keep you both safe.
English is not my first language, but your diction, your pace, the way you construct and convey your thoughts from simple to comprehensive, on the subject at hand, makes you a TOP NOTCH Instructor, Kevin. Please, keep on the beat!!!
Using the clutch for it's intended purpose and abusing the clutch is two different things. I use the hell out of my clutch. And I have to admit I sometimes abuse it. Never have I had to replace a clutch. Been riding almost 26 years. Another great video. Thank you for all you do.
I've been riding for over forty years and keep my bikes a long time (by taking care of them) and I have never actually worn out a bike clutch thus far. I'm not afraid to spend time slipping the clutch either. I sometimes practise ultra slow feet up, coming to a near stop at the lights (when conditions are safe/appropriate to so so) and of course feet up U turns which requires plenty of judicious clutch slip and throttle modulation. All good fun and I believe good practice, but have never actually had to replace plates or springs and the last bike had 156,000 km on the clock, so I think people must be paranoid! Keep up the good work Kevin.
I asked my instructor about clutch wear when I took the MSF course and he gave the short version of your explanation then pointed out that if it was a major wear issue they'd be replacing them constantly in the bikes used for the class, and they don't. That put it into perspective for me. If a machine that spent 95% of it's rolling life in the friction zone wasn't going through clutch plates massively faster than one that was ridden normally, then it just wasn't worth worrying about. I'm sure they weren't getting quite as many miles per set as motorcycle used normally, but that's to be expected. Just like someone who's into carving corners will wear tires and brakes faster.
with an old school dirt bike you had to 'feather' the clutch in turns. this did cause wear, but not so much that it needed service too often. heck, my 74 yamaha is probably still using the original friction material and disks.
@Thomas B how does that make any sense? When feathering the clutch and off throttle then ur not slowing down much, if ur completely of the throttle and clutch then the bike slows down as the revs drop. When ur on the clutch the bike isint connected and its rolling, the rate at which it slows down is significantly less then just being off throttle. And im sure u understand how brakes work.
@@thbigshot101 If you don't need much braking it's a good way to do it. Keeps your rear wheel insensitive to throttle input, your right hand off the brake and your right foot off the other brake. I should imagine it's mostly down to feel. You get the added benefit of keeping the brakes cold. Also I imagine it's not quite so bad if you overcook it.
I very happy to have went through extensive drivers license training in both a manual car and a manual motorcycle. Learning to use the friction zone in both. It made me a better driver and rider even when being new :) (I'm from Denmark)
"You gunna start stopping with your feet sonyoubdont ware out your breaks"... such a good analogy for the point you're making about the clutch... I'm definitely using that because my father in law in that guy who "doesn't want to burn up his clutch so he's always walking his bike around in neutral because he says slow speed is bad for the bike... I've given up arguing with him about it but I gotta use that example you gave that was perfect.
I'm one of the few younger generation that has been driving a manual car for years (probably for some 12+ years now). When my friend and I, both having driven manual cars for years, went to take the motorcycle class we were both very relieved we already had this concept down. It made things MUCH easier. This great explanation was somewhat glanced over in the class so those not familiar should watch this video
Same here. I had already driven multiple manual transmission vehicles before I got my first motorcycle...14yrs after getting my license. But even when I went for my MSF course I had already driven a 5speed so it came naturally. Driving also comes naturally though.
Every thing seems to be on video these days, but its not the same as you would understand as being there and doing it. Hope you continue to enjoy and stay safe and well
Another good video. Using the "friction zone" was/is the hardest thing to learn about motorcycle riding for me. For years and years for me, the clutch was either on or off. Dad yelling to me to not slip the clutch carried over to motorcycle riding because I didn't know any better. Old habits are hard to unlearn.
Car clutches are also built to slip. Not for quite so long, but still built to slip. If you have good throttle control and can make sure it's not slipping too fast it's OK to let it do so for smoothness. The rest of the drivetrain will thank you 😉
LOL my buddy has that problem, he cant help but to just drop the clutch. he also has a bad problem with riding the clutch every time he is slowing down and taking turns. pretty bad habit considering you dont want to be dropping the clutch in the middle of a turn when its time for you to begin accelerating again. he said he does that because he doesnt want the bike to stall but the bike wont stall at low speeds, well low enough to take a turn because the only time you are going slow enough for the bike to stall is when you are going so slow that you have trouble balancing the bike which is way slower than you should be going to make a turn.
I ran my clutch wet on my shovel head for years. Eliminated the silly primary chain lube from the engine oil. Let the atf lube the chain and cool the clutch. Then I went with a belt drive and back to a dry clutch.everything else is a wet clutch. Never had a problem with slipping the clutch in the friction zone. Clutches are cheap and last well over 100k miles, even the dry type. Another great video Kevin.
Man!!!! I am not an instructor ..but I was just teaching someone yesterday on the techniques of slow riding. I did my best trying to explain clutch, throttle, dragging the brake, locking the handle bars left and right etc....needless to say...I'll be sending this video to him. I still enjoy watching ALL of your videos. Thank you for putting your expertise out on video format for our enrichment!
Love the calm explanation and the way you help people gain perspective on the silliness of aversion to wear on certain bike parts. The way you help the listener arrive to the conclusion of how little sense it makes to be afraid of using the clutch for the very purpose it was intended.
Great video! I look forward to more of this series. Thousands of bikes go to the wrecking yard every year... Most of them crashed due to lack of rider skill or strategy. I'd wager none go there because the clutch was toasted from working cone drills. 😉
Excellent video! I was a motorcycle safety instructor for five years, when I was a younger man, and had students of all skill levels in that time. I used a similar analogy to your volume dial one, but when explaining the use of the clutch, particularly to my beginner students. I equated it to a light dimmer switch. I found it helped them understand the concept, even if they had no idea how to drive a car with a manual transmission. As I often told my students, any fool can dump the clutch, crank the throttle, and go like a bat out of hell. It takes real skill to handle a thousand pound machine competently, at 5 mph. Clutch control is the key to that.
I have a challenge. Take a U-turn without slipping the clutch. Then one knows, that it can hardly be better. It can be done with enough practice. And stop all the way at stop signs, whit out putting the foot down. The ultimate challenge is to stop at a red-light… Keep the feet up… Hooooold… And go on green-light. Then you know you got it down…
what are your thoughts on preloading the clutch with the throttle and keeping it loaded with the throttle? i watched robert simmons channel, but dont recall this in technique taught in the MSF. In the MSF course i remember when the clutch engages give it gas, not preloading when the clutch is disengaged.
So you have never had the cable slip out of the lead cable stop?! Never heard of it? Always put in neutral at a light. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. When the cable slips the ferrel, you get shot into traffic! If a car is coming toward me, I can run easier than maneuver a 600lb machine out of the way. I've seen ferrets slip. It happens.
Kevin, I was one of those kids that watched my dad drive a car and back then they had clutches. He used to always have a problem controlling that clutch and worrying about burning it out. When I had my primary motorcycle training the explanation about using friction control was virtually non-existent. All was mentioned was to start off release the clutch slowly. The rest of it was basically missing. It wasn't until I took an advanced Rider racing course at a track that I learned more about the friction control and then my control of the motorcycle got a whole lot better. Even though, up here in the North when my motorcycles have been put away for 6 months, when I get them out I need to repractice with each one of them, as each of the motorcycles I ride have different feelings in how the clutch engages on them. Very important, or even likely the most important part of writing a motorcycle is understanding and using the clutch properly. Well done
Cars are slightly different. You do have to worry about burning them up since most motorcycles use wet clutches vs the dry clutches in cars. Car clutches don't dissipate heat as easily as a motor and carry a lot more weight. In a car the goal is to let it out as quick and smoothly with as few rpm as possible to minimize that heat.
I have an Electra Glide with over 100,000 MI. A year ago the clutch was removed to access other repairs needed. The shop inspected the original clutch plates and Springs and reinstall all original parts. I never shift to neutral at a stoplight so that is obvious that this practice does not damage clutch springs. But if it did what's more important your life or some clutch spring.
All good stuff! Over here in Europe, manual transmissions are the norm on cars (or were pre-EV). We also have (or had) a wider range of motorcycles, so dry single-plate and dry multi-plate clutches were more common. There are bikes that will change up or down (on a track) with barely a touch or a brush of the clutch lever. And there are others (larger Guzzis come to mind) that require a proper haul on the lever and a watch to time the cog swap. But all this was good stuff. And was nicely presented.
Brand new rider here and your video is a godsend. There are plenty of videos for intermediate riders and even experts but not nearly enough for just starting off.
Purchased a small motorcycle for my wife last year, and the first thing I did with it before driving it home was to do a bunch of low speed exercises on it in the parking lot to get a "feel" for it. The guy that sold me the bike was only a beginner rider, and he actually thought something was wrong with the bike's idle speed from the factory because he didn't fully understand the friction zone. Meanwhile, I was doing figure 8's between cones.
Clear and concise real-world instruction from someone who obviously knows what they're talking about. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Good point. Excellent content as usual. Those of us who learned clutch control driving a manual car should really internalize the the difference between a dry clutch of a car and the wet clutch in a bike. My dad taught me utmost care and delicacy in working the clutch in a 1981 Ford Fiesta 1.1 during driving instruction. Huge thanks and respect. But launching my Hornet 600 slipping the clutch at 5000rpm is a totally different thing. That's what it's meant to do, and that's why we change the oil on bikes so often. Dirt bike riding also teaches controlling the rear wheel power with the clutch while keeping rpms somewhere between max torque and max power. Ride smart, ride safe!
@@MCrider what are your thoughts on preloading the clutch with the throttle and keeping it loaded with the throttle? i watched robert simmons channel, but dont recall this in technique taught in the MSF. In the MSF course i remember when the clutch engages give it gas, not preloading when the clutch is disengaged.
I'm glad I found this channel. I'm a fairly new rider and Ive learned a lot and your videos have pointed out some of my flaws I definitely need to work on after realizing they were flaws.
Those flaws will continue Ive riding for over 30 years and still have things that can be improved or tweaked its a never ending learning situation. No one is prefect. Stay safe and well
Tyler, I started watching Kevin / MCrider and Jerry Palladino / Ride Like A Pro, a couple of months before I bought my motorcycle. They've both taught me just about everything I know about riding. I've been riding now for about 4.5 years but still consider myself to be new.ish. I still watch these guys and practice. If you haven't already, go check out Jerry's channel. If you feel like there's nothing to improve on, it's time to hang it up. Never stop learning my friend. Ride safe!
When I did the course for my license here in Australia, they taught us to have the clutch on the friction zone and the foot on the brake to be prepared to move by just lifting our foot from the brake in an emergency.
I have been riding on and off for over 40yrs and I always feather the clutch at low speeds in traffic. Thank you for providing insight to whats going on inside the clutch. Now I can win the next debate.
Very nice Kevin. You bring a great perspective to the community and always have important training tidbits that so many folks overlook. The friction zone is barely touched upon in basic courses but if riders really want to progress, they need additional training that you present so well. Thanks for the reminder to get out there and practice. As soon as this crazy ice & snow departs and the crummy salt gets washed away, I’m out there. Always appreciate the videos.
I agree. Motorcycles 🏍 are for the driver and the connection to the road or trail depending on the bike. Cars are very refined which is so sad 😞 to me….
Just purchased a 2005 Honda spirit 1100 with 2,200 on it has pipes popped n shuttered on deceleration. A certain dealership told me to just get use to pulling in the clutch to stop it, well I grew up in the late 50ies n was taught to never disengage until comming to a stop.. So I took it to a carb shop for a dyno jet kit problem solved, I'm a firm believer in engine breaking for control n breaking be aware that not everyone does not have your safety in mind. Thanks for bringing this to new riders attention.
Excellent advice, clutch knowledge/understanding is not discussed much in motorcycle classes and the majority of people don't know the basics about wet motorcycle clutches. Excellent video!👏
I grew up around a dairy farm with mostly older equipment so I learned to drive with mostly manual transmissions. I drove a variety of off-road bikes as a kid, but I didn't get my first road bike and my cycle endorsement until just a few years ago. A close friend recommended that I take a basic riding course which he had taken many years earlier. In that course they did teach that when you come to a stop the bike should be in first gear and holding the clutch in. I was telling this to my friend and years earlier (20 years) when he had taken it they taught you should be in neutral, and when you tested, that is what the examiner was expecting, that the bike was in neutral. That being said, it is one more reason why someone may pop their bike into neutral while waiting at a stop.
I’m taking the MSF course tomorrow and I am sooo glad I found this video. I did learn to drive a manual car and I thought that you handle the clutch in a bike the same. This video really helped my mentality about how I can handle the clutch on a bike.
I honestly had no idea that this is how the clutch worked on a motorcycle, It actually adds more rhythm to it than i thought. I grew up learning on a 96 mustang manual, but I definitely thought the clutch on a motorcycle was the same as a car. Thank you for the clear, no frills, but still engaging content.
Another great video, Kevin! The clutch speech sounds like the exact one I share with my students early on range day #1. All in the name of avoiding any misconceptions about clutch usage and operation.
Great information for every one riding and enjoying it! Replacing a wet clutch is a very simple job, and most times the parts are cheap. Do not stress using this important part of these machines. Do the slow work, and the clutch friction zone is your best buddy! Great series, look forward to the next. And thank you Kevin, very nice contribution to a super fun deal this motorcycling truly is.
Hi Kevin, good video. Even though I bought my first motorcycle in 1970, no matter how old I get, I always seem to learn something new from you. Thank you.
I like you. I’m a new rider, and I went for a larger 1300cc cruiser. I too have heard many a myth, and came here looking for answers. I was digging for coal, and found gold. Thank you
It's truly the most used and least understood item on the bike. Its mastery, coupled to the brakes will decide more about rider skills than will most other's. Thanks!
Looking to get a bike next year so I've been watching as many videos about safety and tips that I can. I was very curious about this subject because I drove a manual transmission for a decade and was wondering about the similarities and differences between the two. In my car I was REAL BAD about not downshifting, just popping in the clutch, going out of gear and then looking at my speed and popping the clutch to get back into gear. Obviously sounds like a terrible on a bike ESPECIALLY when stopped so you don't have an escape zone (something that hits home with my me because I install traffic signs for a living and have to always be aware of my surroundings. LOVED the video and how you break it down to those of us with not a ton of bike knowledge. You sir have gained me as a subscriber.
I had the same habit in a car. I got my first morocycle a few weeks ago and I've found the down shifting (engine breaking) is alot more natural on a motorcycle.
Clutch control is key to getting out or through some difficult situations. With today's bikes equiped with traction control most new riders get over confident & are clueless how to ride in the wet without it.
The first thing I wore out on my bike was the rear brake pads. I was using it too much as a crutch in slow speed skills. Now I use light pressure and try not to to depend on it too much. It’s there when I need it. I cannot wait until you talk about the front brake as well. It’s your friend when properly used. Thank you Kevin and enjoy your day! 😊
@@marksmallman4572 That is excellent! 😊 Knowing your front brake, throttle, and clutch and making sure your handlebars are straight when coming to a stop takes a lot of practice! Especially if you are riding a heavy weight cruiser.
@@marksmallman4572 If you can stop your bike from 80mph to 0 in 100 feet using the front brake only you can stop it in 75 feet using both brakes properly that last 25 feet can be the difference between life and death forty years of riding and you dont know how to ride properly, and you are proud ?!
90% interesting. Im an old school driver. Still have machine (new one yes yes new one rare in our days) with dry clutchs an other style off using clutchs. We got slipper clutchs 99% off the time on the market. I like it complicated. Using a dry clutch is an other school. Yes you can slip her but have to know when its time to let her cool. I have learn that abusing a dry clutch let to waxing the plate and lost off performance. You have to have a good smell sence to drive those dry one. Less complicated to drive wet one. Tanks again, you know what your talking about!
Thanks for the tips, knowlege and advice. When we started riding motorcycles as teenagers in the 60's, there were no training courses or instruction classes, it was 'on the job training' so to speak. Reminds me of the folks who drive/operate an automatic vehicle with both feet.
Well, yeah. I'm an "older" guy and am opposed to "driving an appliance." I also enjoy the standard 5 speed manual transmission on my 1995 Nissan pickup truck. (Presently under restoration!) We all *need* to appreciate the finer, and sometimes older, things in life, and embrace them! Thank you for the presentation!
Great instructional video Kevin. Kudos! You invited comments on topics about the clutch you might have forgotten. I'll mention clutch cable adjustment. Similar to wear on the clutch plates, stretch in the clutch cable is inevitable and the rider needs to exercise periodic vigilance on the state of the clutch cable adjustment to get optimum performance out of the clutch. If you don't keep up with clutch cable stretch, then the friction zone will shift. It means that you might not get full disengagement of the clutch if the cable is greatly stretched and the clutch has not been suitably adjusted. On my BMW, I need to twist in or out an adjustment nut right at the clutch handle that take up or lets out slack in the cable. I do this until there is 2mm of movement in the clutch handle. This adjustment also puts the friction zone right in the middle of the clutch sweep angle - not too close to the resting position for the clutch handle and not too close to where the clutch handle might contact the handlebars. At some point in the life of the clutch cable, the adjustment nut will no longer take up cable slack. At that point, the cable must be replaced and the clutch system readjusted.
BMW R 75/5 was my first, with cordon drive shaft, works completely different compared to all my Japanese chain-drive. But the instructions of Kevin - I didn't know when I was a teenager - were/ are the reason why I can drive every motorcycle up to Kawasaki 900 ccm even while I am 50 kilograms and 170 cm. My elderly brother taught me only:"Play with the clutch!" It´s the power of my left underarm. I´ll show the video my son ... thanks Kevin. I only have to translate.
My previous two Goldwings had over 130K miles each that I put on and I used the friction zone extensively. Neither one had to have clutches replaced. I rode with a couple of older riders that warned about downshifting so much to decelerate in twisties, when approaching stops on city streets and slow riding in parades because I would have to replace my clutch. Just never happened.
Hi Sir, I am from India and have been practicing riding bike since 3 months, I am very happy today to come across your amazing video and gained knowledge about the clutch indepth, i know how to use clutch but the minute information you provided in this video is amazing and i didn't knew it. You have clearified the misconceptions which even the experience riders have and very grateful to you for sharing the knowledge with us.. This is my first video and I have subscribed your channel to gain more knowledge.
The thing is, on a well-maintained motorbike, the clutch doesn't really wear out when you pull it. Of course, if the Bowden cables are not adjusted properly and the clutch therefore does not release completly, there may be wear, of course.
I had taken several motorcycle classes and practiced slow speed skills a lot of over a two year period and decided to replace my OEM clutch with a Barnett clutch, just as preventative maintenance. When I took out my OEM clutch, there was so little wear, that it was measurable only with a digital micrometer. Since I already had the new clutch soaking in oil over night, I replaced it anyways. The Barnett clutch springs are stronger. but it was actually un-necessary. I did find my rear brake pads worn by a millimetre. Doing a lot of slow speed practice wears out your tires more than the clutch.
Great analogy with the radio knob. I could not have thought of a better one. Additionally, a clutch is meant to be worn and changed like brakes. It is not deep engine work. Anybody could do it. Good on ya!
Hi Kavin Please continue share you experience with us and guide new rider like me to enjoy the outdoors riding motorcycle with respect and confidence learning with all your videos, I do my training at parking lot couple hours and check out my mistakes if I can do better watching again again MC RIDER…. All your videos make sure I’m doing something right and developing my strong confidence as new rider… Responsible new rider,,, Thank you very very much for everything you do to help me also all new riders like .. Thank you
I have a new 24 road glide and I have had many people tell me to put it in neutral at stop lights because of heating the clutch, thanks for your help and advice
This is more relevant to me than I expected. While I am pretty competent and confident in the friction zone I still have that underlying belief/assumption that I should not over-stress the clutch or burn out the clutch too fast. This definitely comes from car driving. I remember just a few years ago teaching a newbie to drive a stick-shift and the burnt smell was real :) I'll be trying to unlearn this "angst" in the next rides and try to train myself to fully trust the design of my wet clutch to handle anything I need it to do for control and safety on my bike. My left hand still needs some training though…
Good job! Way back in the day on my first bike with no instruction (how did I survive??) it took me some time to figure that out. I had a motorcycling buddy who believed that the clutch had only two positions, and shifting required the lever to be squeezed tight to the bar. He went through cables about once a month.
One of the best explanation on how and when to use the clutch. One more! If you completely wear out your grips then good for you. And I'll buy you a new set. 😁
thank you so much for clearing this issue up, as i was one of those guys thinking/feeling i was using my clutch wrong fearing damage. I am relieved and feel so much better going forward. THANK YOU!
Another informative video, keep‘em coming! It’s so true that this younger generation have no clue on clutch usage, very foreign to them and have to be taught.
I'm a new rider but I've driven a manual car all my life. I mastered the clutch by riding in bumper to bumper traffic where clutch control is key. I mastered it in a few months and now I have no issues with it, even with heavy bikes.
Excellent video! I’m old, and for cars “they” used to say to put it in neutral and let the clutch out to prevent wear to the throw-out bearing. I’ve never worn out a throw out bearing, and don’t know anyone else who has!
Thx I'm a new rider n yes I use the friction zone to move slowly when I'm I'm approaching lights n stops signs in my city. I recently was thinking was that a good idea n now I feel better after watching this vid. I want to practice using the friction zone as I'm moving in n out of gears as I just usually let the clutch go.
''refined cars'' im driving a modified ke70 corolla 160bhp 1980 model 🥰 and now a proud owner of a cb500x . both vehicles put a smile on my face . keep riding/driving keep safe see you on the road kisses from greece
Excellent source of information provided. Thank you and keep posting information as there's many people like myself who are getting something from this information and truly appreciate it.
Nicely done. I never really thought of describing the clutch as a wear item…probably because although I use it extensively and practice slow speed frequently I have never worn one out. Ride on!
Good advice on leaving the bike in neutral at RR tracts. Two cars behind you before you decide on leaving it in neutral is a good rule of thumb. I'll apply that.
The excellent TH-camr Moto Control did a whole video where he rode his bike at very low speed, slipping the clutch, for a whole hour. At the end, the clutch was working perfectly. He even disassembled the thing to show there had been no appreciable wear. However, if one is also dragging the rear brake for most of one's slow riding, there will be some wear on the clutch (and on the rear brake).
Most clutch packs are so easy to repair. I find on the bikes I've had that it's less work then changing a rear tire. I will add that in the beginning I hated holding that clutch at red lights. But after a couple months it felt normal to be in 1st with the clutch in. And I stop short of cars and allow some kinda of escape route. Ive been rear ended at a light in a car and can't do much. But on a bike I can almost always find a way out if I plan my ride. Haven't needed it yet but I take the advice. I'm not gonna add any risk to my ride to save a stupid clutch...
Well said Kevin. Great points of clutch control. Seems like on my 2019 Goldwing Tour 1st Gear is a bad choice to do that on slipping the clutch on slow speed turns. The 2nd gear works better for me
Hey You do great informative presentations, as i live in a remote city i can't do the training courses etc ! as not available !so i regularly watch yours and other youtube video teachers, and i am a great pupil and hopefully learning to be a better rider, from you guy's I'm 67 years old and ride a 2022 MT09 and i do push it hard ! but i do the practice exercises and i'm still here :)
I remember first learning how to manipulate a clutch. What would have helped me the most, would be if I had some instruction on the purpose and function of the clutch disc itself, with pictures going along with it and how it relates to the flywheel. Getting that in mind as one learns to manipulate the clutch would be the best for a beginner in my opinion.
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Years ago my wife and I were sitting at a signal, her on sportster, I on road king. Speed limit on this road is 45mp, and we had 6 cars behind us. I had taught her to keep in gear. Was a lazy warm Sunday morning. Well, guy in car 7 drunk/fell asleep , I heard the impact and yelled “go” we both shot safely thru the intersection, as groceries and car parts went with us! We pulled over, walked back. Unfortunately, drivers in car 5 and 6, as well as the driver who did not slow down, all died at the scene . Car behind us was pushed across the intersection , my wife and I made it unscathed. This was on Monterey Road in Gilroy California, which is known as blood Alley. Best advice in this video, stay in gear and keep head turning and know 360 degrees what’s going on around you . Ride safe!
maybe it was not a great idea to ride on a road called 'blood Alley'
glad you and wife made it out and can share your experiences with the rest of the world! Rip to those that didn't make it and I pray God continues to keep you both safe.
😮
💜💐💜
@@dumbcattrue, but sometimes you don’t have a choice where there are few road options.
English is not my first language, but your diction, your pace, the way you construct and convey your thoughts from simple to comprehensive, on the subject at hand, makes you a TOP NOTCH Instructor, Kevin. Please, keep on the beat!!!
For an EASL person, your written English is absolutely perfect. I'm always impressed with multilingual skills .
@@mymatemartin I appreciate your comments, Martin. A never ending process.
Using the clutch for it's intended purpose and abusing the clutch is two different things. I use the hell out of my clutch. And I have to admit I sometimes abuse it. Never have I had to replace a clutch. Been riding almost 26 years. Another great video. Thank you for all you do.
I've been riding for over forty years and keep my bikes a long time (by taking care of them) and I have never actually worn out a bike clutch thus far. I'm not afraid to spend time slipping the clutch either. I sometimes practise ultra slow feet up, coming to a near stop at the lights (when conditions are safe/appropriate to so so) and of course feet up U turns which requires plenty of judicious clutch slip and throttle modulation. All good fun and I believe good practice, but have never actually had to replace plates or springs and the last bike had 156,000 km on the clock, so I think people must be paranoid! Keep up the good work Kevin.
Same. Probably 25 years and 200,000 miles, and never replaced a clutch component.
I must have bought a bike from a clutch rider. My clutch was slipping at less than 20K miles. I replaced it and the bike would absolutely fly.
I asked my instructor about clutch wear when I took the MSF course and he gave the short version of your explanation then pointed out that if it was a major wear issue they'd be replacing them constantly in the bikes used for the class, and they don't. That put it into perspective for me. If a machine that spent 95% of it's rolling life in the friction zone wasn't going through clutch plates massively faster than one that was ridden normally, then it just wasn't worth worrying about. I'm sure they weren't getting quite as many miles per set as motorcycle used normally, but that's to be expected. Just like someone who's into carving corners will wear tires and brakes faster.
with an old school dirt bike you had to 'feather' the clutch in turns. this did cause wear, but not so much that it needed service too often. heck, my 74 yamaha is probably still using the original friction material and disks.
Could it be because at a mc class, no one is popping wheelies! 😆 😆!!
@Thomas B how does that make any sense? When feathering the clutch and off throttle then ur not slowing down much, if ur completely of the throttle and clutch then the bike slows down as the revs drop. When ur on the clutch the bike isint connected and its rolling, the rate at which it slows down is significantly less then just being off throttle. And im sure u understand how brakes work.
@@thbigshot101 If you don't need much braking it's a good way to do it. Keeps your rear wheel insensitive to throttle input, your right hand off the brake and your right foot off the other brake. I should imagine it's mostly down to feel.
You get the added benefit of keeping the brakes cold. Also I imagine it's not quite so bad if you overcook it.
@@billh.1940 I did that once by accident 🤣
I very happy to have went through extensive drivers license training in both a manual car and a manual motorcycle. Learning to use the friction zone in both. It made me a better driver and rider even when being new :) (I'm from Denmark)
"You gunna start stopping with your feet sonyoubdont ware out your breaks"... such a good analogy for the point you're making about the clutch... I'm definitely using that because my father in law in that guy who "doesn't want to burn up his clutch so he's always walking his bike around in neutral because he says slow speed is bad for the bike... I've given up arguing with him about it but I gotta use that example you gave that was perfect.
I'm one of the few younger generation that has been driving a manual car for years (probably for some 12+ years now). When my friend and I, both having driven manual cars for years, went to take the motorcycle class we were both very relieved we already had this concept down. It made things MUCH easier. This great explanation was somewhat glanced over in the class so those not familiar should watch this video
Same here. I had already driven multiple manual transmission vehicles before I got my first motorcycle...14yrs after getting my license. But even when I went for my MSF course I had already driven a 5speed so it came naturally. Driving also comes naturally though.
Every thing seems to be on video these days, but its not the same as you would understand as being there and doing it. Hope you continue to enjoy and stay safe and well
Same here
Another good video. Using the "friction zone" was/is the hardest thing to learn about motorcycle riding for me. For years and years for me, the clutch was either on or off. Dad yelling to me to not slip the clutch carried over to motorcycle riding because I didn't know any better. Old habits are hard to unlearn.
Car clutches are also built to slip. Not for quite so long, but still built to slip. If you have good throttle control and can make sure it's not slipping too fast it's OK to let it do so for smoothness. The rest of the drivetrain will thank you 😉
LOL my buddy has that problem, he cant help but to just drop the clutch. he also has a bad problem with riding the clutch every time he is slowing down and taking turns. pretty bad habit considering you dont want to be dropping the clutch in the middle of a turn when its time for you to begin accelerating again. he said he does that because he doesnt want the bike to stall but the bike wont stall at low speeds, well low enough to take a turn because the only time you are going slow enough for the bike to stall is when you are going so slow that you have trouble balancing the bike which is way slower than you should be going to make a turn.
I ran my clutch wet on my shovel head for years. Eliminated the silly primary chain lube from the engine oil. Let the atf lube the chain and cool the clutch. Then I went with a belt drive and back to a dry clutch.everything else is a wet clutch. Never had a problem with slipping the clutch in the friction zone. Clutches are cheap and last well over 100k miles, even the dry type. Another great video Kevin.
Man!!!! I am not an instructor ..but I was just teaching someone yesterday on the techniques of slow riding. I did my best trying to explain clutch, throttle, dragging the brake, locking the handle bars left and right etc....needless to say...I'll be sending this video to him. I still enjoy watching ALL of your videos. Thank you for putting your expertise out on video format for our enrichment!
Love the calm explanation and the way you help people gain perspective on the silliness of aversion to wear on certain bike parts. The way you help the listener arrive to the conclusion of how little sense it makes to be afraid of using the clutch for the very purpose it was intended.
Great video! I look forward to more of this series. Thousands of bikes go to the wrecking yard every year... Most of them crashed due to lack of rider skill or strategy. I'd wager none go there because the clutch was toasted from working cone drills. 😉
😆
First day I rode my first motorcycle (zx6r), I almost crashed into a curb because I didn't know how to properly lean and when to lean.
Excellent video! I was a motorcycle safety instructor for five years, when I was a younger man, and had students of all skill levels in that time.
I used a similar analogy to your volume dial one, but when explaining the use of the clutch, particularly to my beginner students.
I equated it to a light dimmer switch.
I found it helped them understand the concept, even if they had no idea how to drive a car with a manual transmission.
As I often told my students, any fool can dump the clutch, crank the throttle, and go like a bat out of hell. It takes real skill to handle a thousand pound machine competently, at 5 mph. Clutch control is the key to that.
I have a challenge. Take a U-turn without slipping the clutch. Then one knows, that it can hardly be better. It can be done with enough practice. And stop all the way at stop signs, whit out putting the foot down.
The ultimate challenge is to stop at a red-light… Keep the feet up… Hooooold… And go on green-light. Then you know you got it down…
what are your thoughts on preloading the clutch with the throttle and keeping it loaded with the throttle? i watched robert simmons channel, but dont recall this in technique taught in the MSF. In the MSF course i remember when the clutch engages give it gas, not preloading when the clutch is disengaged.
So you have never had the cable slip out of the lead cable stop?! Never heard of it? Always put in neutral at a light. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. When the cable slips the ferrel, you get shot into traffic! If a car is coming toward me, I can run easier than maneuver a 600lb machine out of the way. I've seen ferrets slip. It happens.
Kevin, I was one of those kids that watched my dad drive a car and back then they had clutches. He used to always have a problem controlling that clutch and worrying about burning it out. When I had my primary motorcycle training the explanation about using friction control was virtually non-existent. All was mentioned was to start off release the clutch slowly. The rest of it was basically missing. It wasn't until I took an advanced Rider racing course at a track that I learned more about the friction control and then my control of the motorcycle got a whole lot better. Even though, up here in the North when my motorcycles have been put away for 6 months, when I get them out I need to repractice with each one of them, as each of the motorcycles I ride have different feelings in how the clutch engages on them. Very important, or even likely the most important part of writing a motorcycle is understanding and using the clutch properly. Well done
Cars are slightly different. You do have to worry about burning them up since most motorcycles use wet clutches vs the dry clutches in cars. Car clutches don't dissipate heat as easily as a motor and carry a lot more weight. In a car the goal is to let it out as quick and smoothly with as few rpm as possible to minimize that heat.
@@custommotor
Yup I know. Learned to drive on a standard in 1969
@@custommotor ....and cars dont roll over if you make a U turn going too slow.....
In the UK automatic transmission cars are a rarity and mostly used bt folk with mobility issues.
What do you mean "used to have clutches??'
I have an Electra Glide with over 100,000 MI. A year ago the clutch was removed to access other repairs needed. The shop inspected the original clutch plates and Springs and reinstall all original parts. I never shift to neutral at a stoplight so that is obvious that this practice does not damage clutch springs. But if it did what's more important your life or some clutch spring.
All good stuff!
Over here in Europe, manual transmissions are the norm on cars (or were pre-EV).
We also have (or had) a wider range of motorcycles, so dry single-plate and dry multi-plate clutches were more common.
There are bikes that will change up or down (on a track) with barely a touch or a brush of the clutch lever. And there are others (larger Guzzis come to mind) that require a proper haul on the lever and a watch to time the cog swap.
But all this was good stuff.
And was nicely presented.
Brand new rider here and your video is a godsend. There are plenty of videos for intermediate riders and even experts but not nearly enough for just starting off.
Purchased a small motorcycle for my wife last year, and the first thing I did with it before driving it home was to do a bunch of low speed exercises on it in the parking lot to get a "feel" for it. The guy that sold me the bike was only a beginner rider, and he actually thought something was wrong with the bike's idle speed from the factory because he didn't fully understand the friction zone. Meanwhile, I was doing figure 8's between cones.
Clear and concise real-world instruction from someone who obviously knows what they're talking about. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Good point. Excellent content as usual.
Those of us who learned clutch control driving a manual car should really internalize the the difference between a dry clutch of a car and the wet clutch in a bike. My dad taught me utmost care and delicacy in working the clutch in a 1981 Ford Fiesta 1.1 during driving instruction. Huge thanks and respect.
But launching my Hornet 600 slipping the clutch at 5000rpm is a totally different thing. That's what it's meant to do, and that's why we change the oil on bikes so often. Dirt bike riding also teaches controlling the rear wheel power with the clutch while keeping rpms somewhere between max torque and max power.
Ride smart, ride safe!
Always good to hear your sensible explanation of things that matter, Sir. Thank You !
My pleasure!
@@MCrider what are your thoughts on preloading the clutch with the throttle and keeping it loaded with the throttle? i watched robert simmons channel, but dont recall this in technique taught in the MSF. In the MSF course i remember when the clutch engages give it gas, not preloading when the clutch is disengaged.
I'm glad I found this channel. I'm a fairly new rider and Ive learned a lot and your videos have pointed out some of my flaws I definitely need to work on after realizing they were flaws.
Those flaws will continue Ive riding for over 30 years and still have things that can be improved or tweaked its a never ending learning situation. No one is prefect. Stay safe and well
Tyler, I started watching Kevin / MCrider and Jerry Palladino / Ride Like A Pro, a couple of months before I bought my motorcycle. They've both taught me just about everything I know about riding. I've been riding now for about 4.5 years but still consider myself to be new.ish. I still watch these guys and practice. If you haven't already, go check out Jerry's channel. If you feel like there's nothing to improve on, it's time to hang it up. Never stop learning my friend. Ride safe!
When I did the course for my license here in Australia, they taught us to have the clutch on the friction zone and the foot on the brake to be prepared to move by just lifting our foot from the brake in an emergency.
When it comes to Motorcycles there is always something to learn. Those who think they know it all... are dreamers. Thanks for another great video!!!
I have been riding on and off for over 40yrs and I always feather the clutch at low speeds in traffic. Thank you for providing insight to whats going on inside the clutch. Now I can win the next debate.
Very nice Kevin. You bring a great perspective to the community and always have important training tidbits that so many folks overlook. The friction zone is barely touched upon in basic courses but if riders really want to progress, they need additional training that you present so well. Thanks for the reminder to get out there and practice. As soon as this crazy ice & snow departs and the crummy salt gets washed away, I’m out there. Always appreciate the videos.
Spot on. I'm a motorcycle instructor here in Aus and this is exactly what I tell my students.
I agree. Motorcycles 🏍 are for the driver and the connection to the road or trail depending on the bike. Cars are very refined which is so sad 😞 to me….
Bravo!
Your answer to such folks afraid not to damage the clutch are very well explained with nice sense of humor.
Thank you!
Just purchased a 2005 Honda spirit 1100 with 2,200 on it has pipes popped n shuttered on deceleration. A certain dealership told me to just get use to pulling in the clutch to stop it, well I grew up in the late 50ies n was taught to never disengage until comming to a stop.. So I took it to a carb shop for a dyno jet kit problem solved, I'm a firm believer in engine breaking for control n breaking be aware that not everyone does not have your safety in mind. Thanks for bringing this to new riders attention.
Your absolutely right Kevin! Our lives are more important then a worn clutch.. also when the clutch is worn, then i get to upgrade it! 😎👍🏻
Excellent advice, clutch knowledge/understanding is not discussed much in motorcycle classes and the majority of people don't know the basics about wet motorcycle clutches. Excellent video!👏
Your input on the when and where to put the bike in neutral to rest ones hand is bang on.
Everything else is bang on too.
I too am afraid to ride the clutch. Thanks for putting my mind to ease
I grew up around a dairy farm with mostly older equipment so I learned to drive with mostly manual transmissions. I drove a variety of off-road bikes as a kid, but I didn't get my first road bike and my cycle endorsement until just a few years ago. A close friend recommended that I take a basic riding course which he had taken many years earlier. In that course they did teach that when you come to a stop the bike should be in first gear and holding the clutch in. I was telling this to my friend and years earlier (20 years) when he had taken it they taught you should be in neutral, and when you tested, that is what the examiner was expecting, that the bike was in neutral. That being said, it is one more reason why someone may pop their bike into neutral while waiting at a stop.
I’m taking the MSF course tomorrow and I am sooo glad I found this video. I did learn to drive a manual car and I thought that you handle the clutch in a bike the same. This video really helped my mentality about how I can handle the clutch on a bike.
I honestly had no idea that this is how the clutch worked on a motorcycle, It actually adds more rhythm to it than i thought. I grew up learning on a 96 mustang manual, but I definitely thought the clutch on a motorcycle was the same as a car. Thank you for the clear, no frills, but still engaging content.
I have been a chef motorcycle instructor for over a decade...everything you said is the same conversation I had with students every single class...
Another great video, Kevin! The clutch speech sounds like the exact one I share with my students early on range day #1. All in the name of avoiding any misconceptions about clutch usage and operation.
Thanks for another helpful, sensible, useful video! You are an internet island of sanity and maturity.
I've been riding over 20 years. Your volume knob comparison still helped me 🙂
the comparison is good, but not really accurate. the lever distance to engagement friction changes from beginning travel to final travel
Great information for every one riding and enjoying it! Replacing a wet clutch is a very simple job, and most times the parts are cheap.
Do not stress using this important part of these machines. Do the slow work, and the clutch friction zone is your best buddy!
Great series, look forward to the next. And thank you Kevin, very nice contribution to a super fun deal this motorcycling truly is.
Hi Kevin, good video. Even though I bought my first motorcycle in 1970, no matter how old I get, I always seem to learn something new from you. Thank you.
This really helped me out. I was worried riding the clutch on my motorcycle but now I’m not going to worry about it, right on
I like you. I’m a new rider, and I went for a larger 1300cc cruiser. I too have heard many a myth, and came here looking for answers.
I was digging for coal, and found gold. Thank you
Badass! It's been a few years since i rode and this channel is perfect to refresh my memories before getting a new bike.
It's truly the most used and least understood item on the bike. Its mastery, coupled to the brakes will decide more about rider skills than will most other's. Thanks!
New look at an old procedure seen through new eyes, thanks
Looking to get a bike next year so I've been watching as many videos about safety and tips that I can. I was very curious about this subject because I drove a manual transmission for a decade and was wondering about the similarities and differences between the two. In my car I was REAL BAD about not downshifting, just popping in the clutch, going out of gear and then looking at my speed and popping the clutch to get back into gear. Obviously sounds like a terrible on a bike ESPECIALLY when stopped so you don't have an escape zone (something that hits home with my me because I install traffic signs for a living and have to always be aware of my surroundings. LOVED the video and how you break it down to those of us with not a ton of bike knowledge. You sir have gained me as a subscriber.
I had the same habit in a car. I got my first morocycle a few weeks ago and I've found the down shifting (engine breaking) is alot more natural on a motorcycle.
Clutch control is key to getting out or through some difficult situations. With today's bikes equiped with traction control most new riders get over confident & are clueless how to ride in the wet without it.
The first thing I wore out on my bike was the rear brake pads. I was using it too much as a crutch in slow speed skills. Now I use light pressure and try not to to depend on it too much. It’s there when I need it. I cannot wait until you talk about the front brake as well. It’s your friend when properly used. Thank you Kevin and enjoy your day! 😊
Riding for four decades, never use the rear brake, its virtually useless and very little feel, never had a problem.
@@marksmallman4572 That is excellent! 😊 Knowing your front brake, throttle, and clutch and making sure your handlebars are straight when coming to a stop takes a lot of practice! Especially if you are riding a heavy weight cruiser.
Absolutely karen, having faith in your front brakes the key, plus years of riding, not into cruisers, Ducatis yes, in europe. Good luck!
@@marksmallman4572 If you can stop your bike from 80mph to 0 in 100 feet using the front brake only
you can stop it in 75 feet using both brakes properly
that last 25 feet can be the difference between life and death
forty years of riding and you dont know how to ride properly, and you are proud ?!
Nice analogy of a switch compared to a volume control to explain the friction zone. Looking forward to the rest of your new control focus series.
90% interesting. Im an old school driver. Still have machine (new one yes yes new one rare in our days) with dry clutchs an other style off using clutchs. We got slipper clutchs 99% off the time on the market. I like it complicated. Using a dry clutch is an other school. Yes you can slip her but have to know when its time to let her cool. I have learn that abusing a dry clutch let to waxing the plate and lost off performance. You have to have a good smell sence to drive those dry one. Less complicated to drive wet one. Tanks again, you know what your talking about!
Thanks for the tips, knowlege and advice. When we started riding motorcycles as teenagers in the 60's, there were no training courses or instruction classes, it was 'on the job training' so to speak. Reminds me of the folks who drive/operate an automatic vehicle with both feet.
Amazing explanation on the ultimate clutch wear hoax. Kudos for debunking it sir!
Well, yeah. I'm an "older" guy and am opposed to "driving an appliance." I also enjoy the standard 5 speed manual transmission on my 1995 Nissan pickup truck. (Presently under restoration!) We all *need* to appreciate the finer, and sometimes older, things in life, and embrace them! Thank you for the presentation!
Great instructional video Kevin. Kudos! You invited comments on topics about the clutch you might have forgotten. I'll mention clutch cable adjustment. Similar to wear on the clutch plates, stretch in the clutch cable is inevitable and the rider needs to exercise periodic vigilance on the state of the clutch cable adjustment to get optimum performance out of the clutch. If you don't keep up with clutch cable stretch, then the friction zone will shift. It means that you might not get full disengagement of the clutch if the cable is greatly stretched and the clutch has not been suitably adjusted. On my BMW, I need to twist in or out an adjustment nut right at the clutch handle that take up or lets out slack in the cable. I do this until there is 2mm of movement in the clutch handle. This adjustment also puts the friction zone right in the middle of the clutch sweep angle - not too close to the resting position for the clutch handle and not too close to where the clutch handle might contact the handlebars. At some point in the life of the clutch cable, the adjustment nut will no longer take up cable slack. At that point, the cable must be replaced and the clutch system readjusted.
BMW R 75/5 was my first, with cordon drive shaft, works completely different compared to all my Japanese chain-drive. But the instructions of Kevin - I didn't know when I was a teenager - were/ are the reason why I can drive every motorcycle up to Kawasaki 900 ccm even while I am 50 kilograms and 170 cm. My elderly brother taught me only:"Play with the clutch!" It´s the power of my left underarm.
I´ll show the video my son ... thanks Kevin. I only have to translate.
My previous two Goldwings had over 130K miles each that I put on and I used the friction zone extensively. Neither one had to have clutches replaced. I rode with a couple of older riders that warned about downshifting so much to decelerate in twisties, when approaching stops on city streets and slow riding in parades because I would have to replace my clutch. Just never happened.
Hi Sir, I am from India and have been practicing riding bike since 3 months, I am very happy today to come across your amazing video and gained knowledge about the clutch indepth, i know how to use clutch but the minute information you provided in this video is amazing and i didn't knew it. You have clearified the misconceptions which even the experience riders have and very grateful to you for sharing the knowledge with us..
This is my first video and I have subscribed your channel to gain more knowledge.
These videos should be considered public service! Well put!✌🏻
I'd rather wear the clutch out than have a car run into me from behind and paralyse me for life.
Good advice, Kevin. You're a legend.
The thing is, on a well-maintained motorbike, the clutch doesn't really wear out when you pull it. Of course, if the Bowden cables are not adjusted properly and the clutch therefore does not release completly, there may be wear, of course.
@@VoodooMcVee Yes, I agree. In almost 50 years of riding I've only had the clutch go once on a bike, a 1967 Suzuki K10 80cc.
Thanks Kevin. Great analogy with the radio volume control knob.
Very enlightening! And empowering! 🤣 I’ve been told the clutch will burn out if I keep using the clutch 😂 Thanks for this video! 👏
Nice. So glad all my vehicles are manual, even my pickup. Ive had good instructors.
Great video! I'm relearning how to use clutches for the first time in 20 years.
Bless you MCrider. I'm an experienced rider but I enjoy and appreciate your channel. 👍
I had taken several motorcycle classes and practiced slow speed skills a lot of over a two year period and decided to replace my OEM clutch with a Barnett clutch, just as preventative maintenance. When I took out my OEM clutch, there was so little wear, that it was measurable only with a digital micrometer. Since I already had the new clutch soaking in oil over night, I replaced it anyways. The Barnett clutch springs are stronger. but it was actually un-necessary. I did find my rear brake pads worn by a millimetre. Doing a lot of slow speed practice wears out your tires more than the clutch.
Great analogy with the radio knob. I could not have thought of a better one. Additionally, a clutch is meant to be worn and changed like brakes. It is not deep engine work. Anybody could do it. Good on ya!
Thank you Kev that was amazing explanation. Those are all reasons why i love riding motorcycle any given day at anytime
Hi
Kavin
Please continue share you experience with us and guide new rider like me to enjoy the outdoors riding motorcycle with respect and confidence learning with all your videos, I do my training at parking lot couple hours and check out my mistakes if I can do better watching again again MC RIDER….
All your videos make sure I’m doing something right and developing my strong confidence as new rider… Responsible new rider,,,
Thank you very very much for everything you do to help me also all new riders like ..
Thank you
I have a new 24 road glide and I have had many people tell me to put it in neutral at stop lights because of heating the clutch, thanks for your help and advice
This is more relevant to me than I expected.
While I am pretty competent and confident in the friction zone I still have that underlying belief/assumption that I should not over-stress the clutch or burn out the clutch too fast.
This definitely comes from car driving. I remember just a few years ago teaching a newbie to drive a stick-shift and the burnt smell was real :)
I'll be trying to unlearn this "angst" in the next rides and try to train myself to fully trust the design of my wet clutch to handle anything I need it to do for control and safety on my bike.
My left hand still needs some training though…
Good job! Way back in the day on my first bike with no instruction (how did I survive??) it took me some time to figure that out.
I had a motorcycling buddy who believed that the clutch had only two positions, and shifting required the lever to be squeezed tight to the bar. He went through cables about once a month.
Excellent. Nicely done. This is a great video for new riders and a good reminder for seasoned riders. :)
One of the best explanation on how and when to use the clutch. One more! If you completely wear out your grips then good for you. And I'll buy you a new set. 😁
Great content for this time of year when i'm trying to shake the rust off from winter hibernation
thank you so much for clearing this issue up, as i was one of those guys thinking/feeling i was using my clutch wrong fearing damage. I am relieved and feel so much better going forward. THANK YOU!
I’ve been riding for a little while now and this video was a great refresher thanks keep them coming
Another informative video, keep‘em coming! It’s so true that this younger generation have no clue on clutch usage, very foreign to them and have to be taught.
Awesome advice, kevin. Ride safe, god bless u.
Years and years of hearing “don’t ride the clutch”. Good to know the truth.
I'm a new rider but I've driven a manual car all my life. I mastered the clutch by riding in bumper to bumper traffic where clutch control is key. I mastered it in a few months and now I have no issues with it, even with heavy bikes.
Excellent video! I’m old, and for cars “they” used to say to put it in neutral and let the clutch out to prevent wear to the throw-out bearing. I’ve never worn out a throw out bearing, and don’t know anyone else who has!
i have...they make a whining, grinding sound
Thx I'm a new rider n yes I use the friction zone to move slowly when I'm I'm approaching lights n stops signs in my city. I recently was thinking was that a good idea n now I feel better after watching this vid. I want to practice using the friction zone as I'm moving in n out of gears as I just usually let the clutch go.
Been riding since 2006, still learned quite a bit!
''refined cars''
im driving a modified ke70 corolla 160bhp 1980 model 🥰
and now a proud owner of a cb500x .
both vehicles put a smile on my face .
keep riding/driving
keep safe
see you on the road
kisses from greece
Excellent source of information provided. Thank you and keep posting information as there's many people like myself who are getting something from this information and truly appreciate it.
Nicely done. I never really thought of describing the clutch as a wear item…probably because although I use it extensively and practice slow speed frequently I have never worn one out. Ride on!
This is EXACTLY what I needed.
Good advice on leaving the bike in neutral at RR tracts. Two cars behind you before you decide on leaving it in neutral is a good rule of thumb. I'll apply that.
The excellent TH-camr Moto Control did a whole video where he rode his bike at very low speed, slipping the clutch, for a whole hour. At the end, the clutch was working perfectly. He even disassembled the thing to show there had been no appreciable wear. However, if one is also dragging the rear brake for most of one's slow riding, there will be some wear on the clutch (and on the rear brake).
Most clutch packs are so easy to repair. I find on the bikes I've had that it's less work then changing a rear tire. I will add that in the beginning I hated holding that clutch at red lights. But after a couple months it felt normal to be in 1st with the clutch in. And I stop short of cars and allow some kinda of escape route. Ive been rear ended at a light in a car and can't do much. But on a bike I can almost always find a way out if I plan my ride. Haven't needed it yet but I take the advice. I'm not gonna add any risk to my ride to save a stupid clutch...
You're very thorough and at the same time very pleasant in your explanations bravo
Well said Kevin. Great points of clutch control. Seems like on my 2019 Goldwing Tour 1st Gear is a bad choice to do that on slipping the clutch on slow speed turns. The 2nd gear works better for me
Hey You do great informative presentations, as i live in a remote city i can't do the training courses etc ! as not available !so i regularly watch yours and other youtube video teachers, and i am a great pupil and hopefully learning to be a better rider, from you guy's I'm 67 years old and ride a 2022 MT09 and i do push it hard ! but i do the practice exercises and i'm still here :)
Yet another great video and introduction to a series. Nice to have you on board Kevin!
I remember first learning how to manipulate a clutch. What would have helped me the most, would be if I had some instruction on the purpose and function of the clutch disc itself, with pictures going along with it and how it relates to the flywheel. Getting that in mind as one learns to manipulate the clutch would be the best for a beginner in my opinion.
MSF instructor told me the clutch would become my best friend on the bike. How right he was
Thank you for this. Very helpful