Great demonstration! Keep the videos coming. One thing you might add and/or explain, maybe in some future video, is a tester that has all three lights lit, this occurs when a 120 volt outlet is wired for 240 volts, such as might happen when the wrong outlet is installed for an air conditioner or larger electric heater, (ex. a NEMA 5-20R instead of a NEMA 6-20R) . Other than that, this is the most complete guide to 3 light testers . I have subscribed to your channel
I am not completely sure what you were asking about setting up this tester. I never hooked up the hot and neutral together. Yes, that would cause the breaker to trip.
If I don't have one of those voltage detectors, can I just use a DMM to confirm reverse polarity? Will it show up as -120V if its reversed? The DMM has a NCV thing on it but I doubt that would be useful for anything except checking for power at the outlet in general. Thanks.
Sure. A digital multimeter will work. If you have 120-volts between neutral and ground, and no voltage between hot and ground, then this would indicate reverse polarity.
If nothing is connected, it will not show up as a hot ground reverse. It would show up as a dead receptacle because of the open neutral. That is another problem with these testers. It will show is a dead receptacle, so someone could think that there is no power to it and potentially get shocked/electrocuted because there is still power to the hot wire.
The only way I can think of that you could have all three lights on is if the outlet is wired with 220 V instead of 110 V. If you have a voltmeter, I would recommend you check the voltage between the hot and the neutrals and see if you don’t get about 220.
@@morganinspectionservices3840 i have read online forums on all three lights on, and as for a 120 volt outlet wired for 240 volts, how can that even be possible. ??? Because the reason why an outlet for an electric dryer, or an electric cooktop, for example is shaped very different to prevent this very situation, and being a 30 or 50 amp circuit would mean the wire gauge would be much too large to fit a standard 15 amp outlet. Have you ever personally witnessed this? If so, how did someone accomplish that?
@@AmericanOne9621 yes you are correct, like the kind for a window air conditioner. When i was replying on a typical 3 light outlet tester with all three lights on indicating a 120 volt outlet is hooked to 240 volts, now that you mentioned that, that would actually be a more common occurrence than you might think, especially during major renovations. Ex. A home was built with a window air conditioning unit in mind. 20 years later, the homeowner decides to install central air conditioning. The window air conditioner is no longer necessary. That outlet is completely useless. That homeowner, who is not level headed when it comes to electrical work, decides to replace the 20 amp 240 volt air conditioner outlet with a 20 amp 120 volt outlet, not realizing the prongs are shaped differently for a good reason and that's to prevent the wrong product from being plugged in. The 240 outlets i was thinking of were for an electric clothes dryer or electric cooking stove, which would have wires too large to fit a standard 120 volt outlet. Right me if I'm wrong
Thank you perfect way of explaining those testers. Best explanation I’ve ever seen
Wow, thanks!
wow thanks , i wondered why my neutral was hot and i was getting that reading, awesome explanation
You're welcome!
Excellent demonstration! I learn a new thing every day. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Great demonstration! Keep the videos coming. One thing you might add and/or explain, maybe in some future video, is a tester that has all three lights lit, this occurs when a 120 volt outlet is wired for 240 volts, such as might happen when the wrong outlet is installed for an air conditioner or larger electric heater, (ex. a NEMA 5-20R instead of a NEMA 6-20R) . Other than that, this is the most complete guide to 3 light testers . I have subscribed to your channel
Great suggestion! Thanks for subscribing to the channel!
Great explanation. Thanks
You are welcome!
good information but how you setup this lab testers? wouldn't trigger control panel to be off or blow up once you connect hot with neutral?
I am not completely sure what you were asking about setting up this tester. I never hooked up the hot and neutral together. Yes, that would cause the breaker to trip.
If I don't have one of those voltage detectors, can I just use a DMM to confirm reverse polarity? Will it show up as -120V if its reversed? The DMM has a NCV thing on it but I doubt that would be useful for anything except checking for power at the outlet in general. Thanks.
Sure. A digital multimeter will work. If you have 120-volts between neutral and ground, and no voltage between hot and ground, then this would indicate reverse polarity.
I get the two yellow lights but but very weak.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I have one that all light light up do you have any idea what that means
Yes. That means that is a 220/240 V circuit. Check out this video.
th-cam.com/video/nF3EwyDpg5U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ECLhw1Jx3a8Ezx5M
What if I have nothing connected and its still hot grd. reverse?
If nothing is connected, it will not show up as a hot ground reverse. It would show up as a dead receptacle because of the open neutral. That is another problem with these testers. It will show is a dead receptacle, so someone could think that there is no power to it and potentially get shocked/electrocuted because there is still power to the hot wire.
I have an outlet with all 3 lights on. Any idea what that is saying?
The only way I can think of that you could have all three lights on is if the outlet is wired with 220 V instead of 110 V. If you have a voltmeter, I would recommend you check the voltage between the hot and the neutrals and see if you don’t get about 220.
@@morganinspectionservices3840 i have read online forums on all three lights on, and as for a 120 volt outlet wired for 240 volts, how can that even be possible. ??? Because the reason why an outlet for an electric dryer, or an electric cooktop, for example is shaped very different to prevent this very situation, and being a 30 or 50 amp circuit would mean the wire gauge would be much too large to fit a standard 15 amp outlet. Have you ever personally witnessed this? If so, how did someone accomplish that?
@@Sparky-ww5re They do have 20 amp 240 volt outlets...
@@AmericanOne9621 yes you are correct, like the kind for a window air conditioner. When i was replying on a typical 3 light outlet tester with all three lights on indicating a 120 volt outlet is hooked to 240 volts, now that you mentioned that, that would actually be a more common occurrence than you might think, especially during major renovations. Ex. A home was built with a window air conditioning unit in mind. 20 years later, the homeowner decides to install central air conditioning. The window air conditioner is no longer necessary. That outlet is completely useless. That homeowner, who is not level headed when it comes to electrical work, decides to replace the 20 amp 240 volt air conditioner outlet with a 20 amp 120 volt outlet, not realizing the prongs are shaped differently for a good reason and that's to prevent the wrong product from being plugged in. The 240 outlets i was thinking of were for an electric clothes dryer or electric cooking stove, which would have wires too large to fit a standard 120 volt outlet. Right me if I'm wrong
Did you ever figure this out? I'm trying to diagnose the same issue.