I have set up hundreds of British cars, including Minis, with a Colortune, a four gas analyzer, and a chassis dyno. The Colortune works very well for setting up your idle fuel mixture. Here is how you use it: 1. The instructions in the Gunson manual are WRONG. When using the Colortune, set the idle so that the flame color is blue, then richen the mixture until it just turns yellow with no blue flashes. That is the correct idea mixture as proven by sound, engine rpm, and a four gas exhaust analyzer. Adjusting the mixture to burn blue is too lean and results in partial misfires, high unburned hydrocarbon readings, and an audibly uneven idle. You will believe me as soon as you try it. 2. You can only tune your idle mixture with the Colortune, it will not give you useful information when revving or when driving under load. You need a wide band meter or an exhaust gas analyzer. 3. You can usually use two Colortunes at the same time. You cannot use more than two, for some reason the car won't idle with more than two. There is no great advantage to using two at a time unless you have two banks of cylinders like a V-8, then it sometimes makes the job go quicker. 4. If you get a lot of dark flashes on a particular cylinder that you cannot tune out with the idle mixture, then check for standard tune up parameters like compression, valve clearance, spark plug wire resistance, etc. 5. You can check all four cylinders with a Colortune and you usually tune to get the leanest cylinder to just give you a pure yellow flash with no blue flashes. The other cylinders will be running rich. Good luck with your Colortune!
Hi Cole, I finally bought a Colourtune having watched your video. Just an FYI, you can unscrew the aluminium cap off the top of the sparkplug and screw it onto the extension. It gives you a better fit than just resting the HT lead on the end of the extension.
I've had one in my tool kit for years and never used it until last week. For me, I think its great for just checking misfiring cylinders and/or weak spark/ combustion.
I was hoping to do a video on this when I get my engine back in, but glad you did first so I could get a glimpse into what it entails. Great video as always Cole 👍🏻 can you update us all on the improvements it’s made to drivability when you get chance too please pal
Thanks Cole. Nice review, although I’m not at all confident in the ColorTune. My twin SUs were originally set up by 7-Enterprises and my car ran well. I’d check my spark plugs occasionally and would adjust my carbs accordingly. I bought a ColorTune and found the margin of error to be unacceptable. I could turn the carb fuel/air adjustment nut almost 45° in either direction and still be within spec according to the ColorTune, but the spark plugs told a different story. I bought a mass O2 gauge and was able to confirm what the plugs were telling me, but the sensitivity of the ColorTune remains a disappointment. My O2 gauge was twice the price of the ColorTune, but well worth it, in my opinion. On the other hand, reading the plugs is highly accurate and free!
@@OscarTangoAtc Yes it does, when turning screw richer from lean the revs will rise then fall has it gets to rich. Have always used my ears. Another old skool way is to put a coin on top engine and adjust until it is as still a can be.
I do it this way too and you get an accurate result every time. You do have to understand carbs and know how to setup accurately though. This is not for the average Joe with little knowledge of carburation.
An O2 sensor is so much more effective if you want to spend money. I use my ears. Before adjusting carb the tappets gap and timing must be right first. Check colour of plugs.
I tune mine with a 268° cam, tuned intake ( 60cm velocity stack with no filter) a quarter turn after blue mixture with a BBC needle (HIF 44). Even though the needle is quite rich and would be adequate for pretty agressive camshafts (up to 286° of duration no problems), I have a leaning mixture around 6.000 rpm. It is very good to find a known point on your AFR curve, but it won't replace road testing in my opinion. If, however, you have a direct slide carburator, like on an old bike for example, it will enable spot on mixture for the idle circuit and should be used as an immovable point to tune your carbs.
Just found your channel. Nice video and I can recommend the Colour Tune as well. Been using one on my 69 MGB GT for a few years now. Not sure if you have one already but also get a Moss Motors Carb Balancer. I always balance the carbs first then I go onto the mixture. I only have the one and although a second Colour Tune would speed things up a little bit it really doesn't take long with just the one. Keep up the good work.
He who dies with the most tools wins👍😉. Will look into buying a colour tube also have you used the gunson ezibleed it’s the best one man bleed kit ever.
Seems like for a cyl#3 the idle is set too rich, it should burn blue, thats what that idle mixture screw is for, but of course sometimes it just doesn't work well. And after opening the throttle it should turn orange for a moment as the carb injects extra fuel, otherwise the engine would just stall. And at higher rpms it should become bluish , which is correct in this case.
When doing this part of a tuneup this should be the last step. Engine, such as timing and the valve lash need to be set and compression checked. For the carbs the air flow needs to be set first using a SU meter. Easy to use and not expensive. Mixture should be last and then recheck the air flow as the idle will most likely increase as the mixture approaches a more efficient balance.
Agreed. This video isn’t about timing, valve lash, or compression though. I have other videos covering those topics as each requires a good amount of time to explain properly.
This only really helps with setting the idle mixture not the needle jetting. For reference if you have a CO (carbon monoxide) meter you want about 3.5% CO at idle if you have access to one. MoT testing stations will have them if you really need help.
Great video, Cole. I will order one right now. I have a hif44 just like you used to have on yours. When adjusting by plug color, 1 and 2 plugs look whitish where 3 and 4 look black with soot. How is that possible with a single carb? Also with hif44 and a cone filter, did you get a lot of engine (carb) noise in the cabin when you pushed on the car? It does for me and is very loud.
Used one of these years ago. I cannot stress too much the "warm your engine up first" bit. I had my engine tuned perfectly with the choke out and one it was warmed up it was running too lean ;-) The only other thing I'd say is to remember where you've screwed the mixture screw from in case the engine cuts out. That way you'll get the engine started back up again. This thing only works with the engine running...
You can definitely use it on the SPI and MPI but the fueling adjustment is made by the ECU so it’s less helpful. To my knowledge you can’t adjust it much.
@@classicminidiy thanks. Was wondering how much work would it be to switch a spi to a carb? Any thoughts and what would be a more useful carb dual or single
Please help me, i have two motorcycle. The first has 10mm spark plug and the other has 12mm spark plug. What colortune can i use and what adaptor. Thanks a lot. Greetings from Greece.
Can anyone help me find the Colortune mentioned in this video? I've check online through Amazon and other websites, but am having trouble finding one to use on my 1973 Morris Mini 1000.
Unfortunately it looks like there is a shortage everywhere for the color tunes. Seven mini has a “notify me” function that will let you know when they come back in stock. www.7ent.com/products/colortune-carb-tune-up-tool-stl0037.html?af=cmdiy1959
Thanks for the feedback. This is one of my older vids and I received some similar feedback back then for other vids. I have since adjusted my editing to be a little less choppy. :-)
Yeah after some time with it and learning a bit more about it, the tool is made to set your base idle and at least get the engine running. Past that it wont do anything of value for you across the rev/load range. You need a proper AFR for that.
Ease of use. The O2 Sensor will ALWAYS be more reliable and accurate however this is easier as it doesn't require a new gauge, wiring, and welding in a bung on your exhaust.
I agree. These things were old-tech 20 years ago when all we had were lumenition marrow-bands. An AEM with the sensor dropped into the tailpipe is night and day better than these pieces of junk.
@@TD16V A sensor in the tailpipe is the sum of all cylinders, so you could have one lean and one rich which would still show a correct tailpipe reading. The Colortune lets you set each cylinder mixture correctly, and not just the average of them all. It would be interesting to set with a Colortune, and then check at the tailpipe with a sensor.
@@midas61 Use yours ears then take for a drive and check the colour of your plugs, biscuit brown is what you are looking for. Better than colortune is An O2 sensor is so much more effective if you want to spend money.
I have set up hundreds of British cars, including Minis, with a Colortune, a four gas analyzer, and a chassis dyno. The Colortune works very well for setting up your idle fuel mixture. Here is how you use it:
1. The instructions in the Gunson manual are WRONG. When using the Colortune, set the idle so that the flame color is blue, then richen the mixture until it just turns yellow with no blue flashes. That is the correct idea mixture as proven by sound, engine rpm, and a four gas exhaust analyzer. Adjusting the mixture to burn blue is too lean and results in partial misfires, high unburned hydrocarbon readings, and an audibly uneven idle. You will believe me as soon as you try it.
2. You can only tune your idle mixture with the Colortune, it will not give you useful information when revving or when driving under load. You need a wide band meter or an exhaust gas analyzer.
3. You can usually use two Colortunes at the same time. You cannot use more than two, for some reason the car won't idle with more than two. There is no great advantage to using two at a time unless you have two banks of cylinders like a V-8, then it sometimes makes the job go quicker.
4. If you get a lot of dark flashes on a particular cylinder that you cannot tune out with the idle mixture, then check for standard tune up parameters like compression, valve clearance, spark plug wire resistance, etc.
5. You can check all four cylinders with a Colortune and you usually tune to get the leanest cylinder to just give you a pure yellow flash with no blue flashes. The other cylinders will be running rich.
Good luck with your Colortune!
Thanks for this info. I've just tried a colortune on my triumph herald and set the idle as blue. I'll redo it according to your advice tomorrow.
Hi Cole,
I finally bought a Colourtune having watched your video.
Just an FYI, you can unscrew the aluminium cap off the top of the sparkplug and screw it onto the extension. It gives you a better fit than just resting the HT lead on the end of the extension.
I've had one in my tool kit for years and never used it until last week. For me, I think its great for just checking misfiring cylinders and/or weak spark/ combustion.
I was hoping to do a video on this when I get my engine back in, but glad you did first so I could get a glimpse into what it entails. Great video as always Cole 👍🏻 can you update us all on the improvements it’s made to drivability when you get chance too please pal
Thanks Tom! I’ll do an update video once I get a chance to run it around the block.
Classic Mini DIY nice one Cole thanks
Thanks Cole. Nice review, although I’m not at all confident in the ColorTune. My twin SUs were originally set up by 7-Enterprises and my car ran well. I’d check my spark plugs occasionally and would adjust my carbs accordingly. I bought a ColorTune and found the margin of error to be unacceptable. I could turn the carb fuel/air adjustment nut almost 45° in either direction and still be within spec according to the ColorTune, but the spark plugs told a different story.
I bought a mass O2 gauge and was able to confirm what the plugs were telling me, but the sensitivity of the ColorTune remains a disappointment. My O2 gauge was twice the price of the ColorTune, but well worth it, in my opinion. On the other hand, reading the plugs is highly accurate and free!
Michael Kotowski which o2 gauge did you bought?
That is because the needles in the carb are wrong OR the needles have not been centered and / or leveled correctly in the setup of the carburetor/s
used to use one 30 years ago. great peice of kit
Another great video. I picked up a colourtune myself last year and found it really effective and easy to use.
I'm old school, always used my ear and hose to balance the carbs. This may be a more dynamic approach. Nice job.
But... That doesn't tell you anything about the mixture though 🤔
@@OscarTangoAtc Yes it does, when turning screw richer from lean the revs will rise then fall has it gets to rich.
Have always used my ears.
Another old skool way is to put a coin on top engine and adjust until it is as still a can be.
I do it this way too and you get an accurate result every time. You do have to understand carbs and know how to setup accurately though. This is not for the average Joe with little knowledge of carburation.
Thanks, very cool tool, and good explanation. I have k jetronic sistem instead of carburator. I am going to buy It.
I tuned twin SU's on my MG Midget with a pair of those. They are awesome.
An O2 sensor is so much more effective if you want to spend money.
I use my ears.
Before adjusting carb the tappets gap and timing must be right first.
Check colour of plugs.
I tune mine with a 268° cam, tuned intake ( 60cm velocity stack with no filter) a quarter turn after blue mixture with a BBC needle (HIF 44). Even though the needle is quite rich and would be adequate for pretty agressive camshafts (up to 286° of duration no problems), I have a leaning mixture around 6.000 rpm. It is very good to find a known point on your AFR curve, but it won't replace road testing in my opinion.
If, however, you have a direct slide carburator, like on an old bike for example, it will enable spot on mixture for the idle circuit and should be used as an immovable point to tune your carbs.
Good vid as always. I'll be ordering one of these for the spring
Thank you! 🙂
Very clear, very helpful, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Just found your channel. Nice video and I can recommend the Colour Tune as well. Been using one on my 69 MGB GT for a few years now. Not sure if you have one already but also get a Moss Motors Carb Balancer. I always balance the carbs first then I go onto the mixture. I only have the one and although a second Colour Tune would speed things up a little bit it really doesn't take long with just the one. Keep up the good work.
He who dies with the most tools wins👍😉. Will look into buying a colour tube also have you used the gunson ezibleed it’s the best one man bleed kit ever.
I have indeed. I posted a video all about it actually hahaha.
So should you be setting the carbs for a blue colour at idle or a blue colour at revs? Thanks
Great and helpful video as always!!!
Good video 👍 I’m doing my bike carbs so am really thinking of just ordering one. Greetings from England. Nice mini btw
Seems like for a cyl#3 the idle is set too rich, it should burn blue, thats what that idle mixture screw is for, but of course sometimes it just doesn't work well. And after opening the throttle it should turn orange for a moment as the carb injects extra fuel, otherwise the engine would just stall. And at higher rpms it should become bluish , which is correct in this case.
When doing this part of a tuneup this should be the last step. Engine, such as timing and the valve lash need to be set and compression checked. For the carbs the air flow needs to be set first using a SU meter. Easy to use and not expensive. Mixture should be last and then recheck the air flow as the idle will most likely increase as the mixture approaches a more efficient balance.
Agreed. This video isn’t about timing, valve lash, or compression though. I have other videos covering those topics as each requires a good amount of time to explain properly.
This only really helps with setting the idle mixture not the needle jetting. For reference if you have a CO (carbon monoxide) meter you want about 3.5% CO at idle if you have access to one. MoT testing stations will have them if you really need help.
Great video, Cole. I will order one right now. I have a hif44 just like you used to have on yours. When adjusting by plug color, 1 and 2 plugs look whitish where 3 and 4 look black with soot. How is that possible with a single carb? Also with hif44 and a cone filter, did you get a lot of engine (carb) noise in the cabin when you pushed on the car? It does for me and is very loud.
Good bit of kit Cole , like it pal
Used one of these years ago. I cannot stress too much the "warm your engine up first" bit. I had my engine tuned perfectly with the choke out and one it was warmed up it was running too lean ;-)
The only other thing I'd say is to remember where you've screwed the mixture screw from in case the engine cuts out. That way you'll get the engine started back up again. This thing only works with the engine running...
Where can I get one of these kits?
Hey Cole great video as always. Could this be a possibility with spi, mpi minis ?
You can definitely use it on the SPI and MPI but the fueling adjustment is made by the ECU so it’s less helpful. To my knowledge you can’t adjust it much.
@@classicminidiy thanks. Was wondering how much work would it be to switch a spi to a carb? Any thoughts and what would be a more useful carb dual or single
I need this! Ive struggled to get my air fuel mix right,
It’s so tedious going back and forth with the plugs. The colortune removes all the nebulas stuff and makes it cut and dry.
Good Video. Thank you.
You’re welcome!
Where in South Africa can I get it.
LMAO start of the video I heard 998 and then later had my heart broken when I realized we were not in fact working on an R1 T_T)
Please help me, i have two motorcycle. The first has 10mm spark plug and the other has 12mm spark plug. What colortune can i use and what adaptor. Thanks a lot. Greetings from Greece.
Well that was a waste of time wasn't it!
Can anyone help me find the Colortune mentioned in this video? I've check online through Amazon and other websites, but am having trouble finding one to use on my 1973 Morris Mini 1000.
Unfortunately it looks like there is a shortage everywhere for the color tunes. Seven mini has a “notify me” function that will let you know when they come back in stock.
www.7ent.com/products/colortune-carb-tune-up-tool-stl0037.html?af=cmdiy1959
First😂i like your video’s 💪🏻
I just can't watch this due to the choppiness due to editing. Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback. This is one of my older vids and I received some similar feedback back then for other vids. I have since adjusted my editing to be a little less choppy. :-)
I dont understand why this company doesn't supply more stock they're all out of stock in uk
Mini spares just got a bunch back in stock
It's okay I got one of ebay for 30 quid and a 12mm adaptor for 10🤭
Some feedback in the UK we say Tune the carb not Tooooonnnnn it T-U-N-E with emphasis on the U. Love you coleslaw
You would be the expert on how to say “toon”
@@classicminidiy after all I am the one and only Toon
You also call you houses flats but only tires can get flat not houses... Lol
Like... TEE-YUNE? Instead of toon? Innit?
14mm for all minis?
Yup 👍🏼 mini spark plugs never changed in size.
Does the Colour Tune replaces a Synchrotester?
No a syncro tester ensures the oil in the floats on dual carb systems is equal allowing the same amount of air into the cylinders under load.
Guys these have been around for 45 years already
I've used those colortune kits ..and they are not accurate..they are only a guide..I found engine was way too lean with their recommendations
Yeah after some time with it and learning a bit more about it, the tool is made to set your base idle and at least get the engine running. Past that it wont do anything of value for you across the rev/load range. You need a proper AFR for that.
Should be BLUE at idle as well as higher rev's
Why not use a wide-band O2 sensor? They're under $200!
Ease of use. The O2 Sensor will ALWAYS be more reliable and accurate however this is easier as it doesn't require a new gauge, wiring, and welding in a bung on your exhaust.
I agree. These things were old-tech 20 years ago when all we had were lumenition marrow-bands. An AEM with the sensor dropped into the tailpipe is night and day better than these pieces of junk.
@@TD16V A sensor in the tailpipe is the sum of all cylinders, so you could have one lean and one rich which would still show a correct tailpipe reading. The Colortune lets you set each cylinder mixture correctly, and not just the average of them all. It would be interesting to set with a Colortune, and then check at the tailpipe with a sensor.
Best way to tune is use your ears!!!
Yeah, because you can tell exactly what's going on in a combustion chamber with your ears...DON'T BE SO STUPID!
@@midas61 Use yours ears then take for a drive and check the colour of your plugs, biscuit brown is what you are looking for.
Better than colortune is An O2 sensor is so much more effective if you want to spend money.
I prefer post apocalyptic curry brown and to smell and taste the fumes, it's better than listening.