Tesla Model 3 - Door Seal Kit, Quieter?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2019
- I purchased this item myself with no compensation.
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BASENOR Tesla Model 3 Door Seal Kit Soundproof Rubber Weather Draft Seal Strip Wind Noise Reduction Kit - $39.99
amzn.to/303201p (paid link)
BASENOR Tesla Model Y Door Seal Kit Soundproof Rubber Weather Draft Seal Strip Wind Noise Reduction Kit - $35-40
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Model Y:
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Motrobe Tesla Model 3 Model S Car Door Seal Kit Soundproof Rubber Weather Strip Draft Wind Noise Reduction Kit , 8 PCS $30
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If your measurements are correct, 7-8 decibel reduction is like NY to SFO.
Very professionally done!!! You got all of the details, explained it well and sped up the video where there was duplicate content. As a viewer, I really appreciated the effort you put into the video!! Thanks.
This is neat to see a kit that someone has put a lot of thought into and seems to work pretty good at a really cheap price
Bought the same kit after watching your video. Really glad that I watch this twice before putting it on. Thank you!
Tesla should add Active Noise Cancellation to the radio system like other manufacturers do. Makes the cabin super quiet.
They do, just that they reserve that to the more expensive model s
Thank you for demonstrating how to install door shields on the Tesla. Your results reducing noise are actually very impressive. A decibel is a relative measure of power. It is computed by 10xLog10( Power Ratio ), where Power Ratio = Noise Ratio. You achieved a reduction of 8dB, which is the equivalent of 10^( -8/10) = 0.16. That means you reduced the noise by a factor of 6.25 = 1/0.16. So without the door seals, the noise is more than 6 times louder. You achieved a significant improvement!
Thank you for your interesting and informative video.
That's not really relevant, whilst a +3dB gain results in a doubling of sound intensity or acoustic power, this is not equivalent to a doubling of perceived volume.
In terms of relative perceived volume, a gain of +3dB is a 23.2% change, a +10dB gain is a doubling of perceived volume, a reduction of 8dB is equivalent to noise reduction of around 43%, or looked at the other way without the door seal the noise is around 77% louder not 6 times.
that decibel level decrease is massive! sound pressure changes on a logarithmic scale, not linear.
Plus it will keep water and dirt off the road during rain!
@@terryrodbourn2793 if without the crap he advertised you have dirt and water inside then definatelly something wrong with your car
Hence the oddity. 8dB drop in sound level should have been obvious to those inside the car, effectively twice halving the sound level, but not reported as such. Don’t understand.
If these db levels are real seals must be bought and installed. 6db is dramatic difference. Twice a reduction of audiable noise.
What a great product, Matthew! I've only seen door seal product sold in the profile shapes of the products, there were never any corner pieces that I know of. $$39.99 is not bad for a kit as good as this one. I never saw adhesion promoter, just alcohol pads. I bet that these will stay tight for years. I don't notice a noise problem in my Long Range Dual Motor 18" standard rims, Model 3 and I'm extremely picky.
Thanks for the great video
Good shit! Def getting these for mine. The dirt is more annoying than the sound imo
Nice video. Thanks!
Thanks for your video. The "A Pillar" was a lot of fun to apply (note the sarcasm). After reading some comments from others, I altered the order of the pieces to go from easiest to hardest: Right (passenger) "B Pillar" (definitely the easiest), Right Rear Door, Right Front Door, Right "A Pillar". Then I moved to the Driver side: Left "B" Pillar", Left Rear Door, Left Front Door, Left "A Pillar". I knew that I would use the passenger side as 'practice' and that it would inform me as to what to expect for the driver side. The drainage holes were time consuming and wish there was a better way to handle it, but it's probably asking too much. Great job, Matt!
Yes, the A pillar was the toughest to do! I "practiced" on the passenger side too. Thanks, I'm glad it worked for you.
It seems that the rubber should be above the drain holes so the water isn’t trapped when it rains. Otherwise the rain will stagnate sitting on the rubber when the door is shut.
Tesla Tips by MTN Ranger Makes sense to me, and that is the way I am going to do it. Have a good day.
Best kit I’ve tried yet. And I’ve tried multiple door seal kits, and I have the roof band in place. What I’ve come to the conclusion is this... the road noise that comes in just is not absorbed anywhere. Not like a car that has a roof. It’s my belief that a lot of sound deadening comes from cars that have a roof with a liner and some insulation in it, like a party in a room with carpet, vs a room with hardwood floors (just echos)... and the Model 3 has the all glass roof (no sound deadening). Further most cars have doors with a window frame that buys you more seals around the window itself.
SCWgreg this is absolutely true. I’ve had cars that have sunroofs and have retractable fabric covers under them. The road noise increases significantly when I opened the cover. It’s so bad (for me) I’d just keep it shut all the time.
That’s not true, it depends on how thick the glass is. As long as the roof is thick glass it works the same as a normal roof. Road noise comes from mostly below the car not from above or the windows
It’s the tires that produces 90% of the noises, as long as that’s reduced wind noise isn’t that bad
What they are referring to is reflected noise, not noise coming from above the glass roof. If the inside of the vehicle has a glass roof then all the noise within the vehicle gets reflected off of it and you hear it. If you have a normal headliner then the noise that's in the vehicle gets absorbed and not reflected so it makes the interior quieter.
I was hoping to find an instructional video like yours before my seal kit arrives! Thank you so much!!! 👍 I‘ve ordered the bigger kit, which also includes seals for the frunk and trunk.
Thanks! I just recently bought the frunk and trunk kit and will be doing a video soon.
Tesla Tips by MTN Ranger looking forward to that video
Thanks for this - my only reason for these seals on the Model X is to prevent dust from getting inside the doors... I live in Arizona, we have a lot of dust, and just washing/cleaning that portion of the model x inside all these areas is what takes so much time.... thanks!!!!
A slight difference?!?!? Every 3rd dB is double up! So lowering it that much is deffently worth those bucks! More than half the Sound!
cant wait for the next video
Surprisingly this is the best instruction video out there on how to put the seals on. Especially considering basenor doesn't include instructions and actually links you to other TH-cam videos that DIYed their seals not using basenors product.
However, you put the P seals on wrong. The loop on the "p" portion of the P seal should be placed along the edge of the doors leaving the flap hanging. The flap folds against the car frame when the doors close. Thats what creates the seal. Doing it this way also prevents you from needing to cut the seals for the drainage holes. You placed your p seals too high which is why you needed to cut into them.
Your z seal placement was cool though.
Cheers
Basenor instructions are included and they have videos for each section. I'm pretty sure I did them the way that the videos showed. So you are saying those videos are not correct? Regarding P seals, are you talking about the front doors? th-cam.com/video/GvcmW7UeLhg/w-d-xo.html
hope you can respond to MTN Rangers answer...?
@@MTNRanger check out this guys vid th-cam.com/video/lTPBVPJ_ZTg/w-d-xo.html this is how the p seals should be applied on the doors to avoid cutting them.
@@SupremeCatalyst Thanks for the P seal comment. I've never worked with weatherstripping tape, and I used the passenger side to "get the feel" of working with the products. I used the Basenor (credit to whomever originated the design) which was very easy to get, but instructions are sparse. The Basenor uses something like a "D" seal on the rear door instead of the B piller, and I see that the Z seal approach seals down to the very bottom.
That said, the D seal seals against the front door seal in the Basenor. I did the front first, and the P seal was correct, but the rear door P seal is upside down. I can't hear the difference between front and back, but overall, the ambient noise from outside the car is noticeably reduced. Id say for in the 30 dollar range it's worth it.
I have extra material, and I'm looking for more opportunities to seal.
Good installation videos. Added seals should not be visible when the doors are closed. That depends on how close you run the rubber strips.
Excellent video. Yours is the first to mention cutting the strips where the water drains are at the bottom of the doors. The others say install it under these drains so as not to block them. I recently tried to install a different vendor’s seal kit, but for whatever reason, when I gradually pull off the red tap the strip would not stick to the surface. I was installing it in my garage and the outside temperature was the middle of the mid-40’s. I figured the cold car surface must have been a factor. I obviously returned it and I’m looking for a replacement. This Basenor Kit looks like it should work better and I’ll install it under warmer conditions.
I’m more motivated by keeping out the water and dirt them the small noise reduction. Thanks
Yes, warmer temperatures will make a big difference. Good luck!
The seals are intended to run below the door drain holes. Glued surface edge flush with outer edge of door. No cutting required.
i have yet to see 1 video of the correct ''not cutting'' install. im putting these on tomorrow on my new Y
I bought a similar kit on eBay. I notice the difference in sound.
Ordered these the other day
...and i just noticed amazon link is paid so i definatelly ignore this purchase...
Go for the front wheel wells that is were most of the noice comes from.
Great video!
I got the same package but I did not cut the holes I just put it below the drainage holes. It is exactly fit for that. Then you do not block the water drainage. And even if you stick it that low you will not see the rubber from the outside!
Roel Timmers You are the second person to mention that now. At the time of installation, my method was the recommended way. Looking at it now I can see that installing it lower will work too. The only issue I have is that my version, water drains down through the cut outs. With the lowered seal install, it would appear that the water would sit on top of the seal. Thanks for the comment.
@@MTNRanger I installed the passenger side stripping according to your video. The A pillar is good, the B and C pillars are great but the bottom of both doors is crap. To test the seal, I closed the door on a piece of paper and pulled it out. Lots of friction at the B and C pillars, less friction at the A pillar and nothing at both door sils. To understand the interaction between the seal and the lower door jam I closed the front door, opened the back door and looked down towards the front door. They are not touching, I can see light coming from the bottom of the door. At least 1/8". On the driver's side I positon the seals below the drainage holes. The glue (red tape) is on the lip that curls from the outside of the door. This way the seal is very tight. If you are concerned about drainage cut the seal bellow the hole. On our car have you looked from the inside to see if the door seal is contacting the door frame.
@@dusty-vo8gh That is surprising. I just went out and tested all four doors. I placed a piece of paper and closed the door. The paper was tight and not removable on all four door sills.
You can actually see the seal if you open one door and close the other.
This is a manufacturing problem, not a gasket problem. Panel alignment on our car is poor.
Just came across your video, thanks for sharing! Can you provide an update on the long term outcome of these seals. Im also very keen to see what the dust/dirt reduction looks like after a month or 2. and finally, did you end up mounting on the boot? as I find alot of debri also gets stuck there too. thanks again
I have had the door seal on for over four years now. It keeps the inner door area cleaner. I have had no issues with it coming loose. I took off the trunk seal since it made closing harder.
Thanks for making this. The instructions with the package were non existant.
I purchased this product using your link. I had time to watch videos and read comments. As one of commenters said there is no need to make the cut for drainage holes. The other video that you referenced to did showed the cut but Tesla model 3's holes are lower so you can just move the rubber hose above the drain hole to allow glue to stick to paint surface in that section and still not block the hole. This creates a stronger bond than cutting it out. Your install is a bit cleaner but most people can't tell or don't care. As for the back door you can actually flip the rubber so the glued side is further away from the drain holes allowing a clean install. I just got done doing this yesterday and it came out well without the hassle of cutting holes in those areas.
Thanks for the suggestions. It’s been almost four years, thanks for reminding me of this video!
@@MTNRanger I just found your channel recently since I bought a Tesla. Keep up the good work.
@@Wayne_de Thanks, I have my five year update video coming out on Monday.
Those drainage hole cutouts should be standard on kit. Now all you need to get is the 2021 front window laminated glass. I guess it can be retrofit.
The lack of a manual is maddening. I’m not sure whether I got the rear doors reversed or not, with the thick part on the outside edge, or inset. The front door seems no quieter when shutting yet, I saw one video where the thick part was placed over the drainage hole, (cut out of course), and the red dragon had his over the bottom lip so the flap extended below the bottom of the door. It’s unclear if it’s sealing at all, or contacting the frame at all. Before I do the other side, thoughts? Should I buy a new kit and redo it?
Do the door jambs stay cleaner after this?
Thanks for the video, nice work. 👍 I've added similar seals to other vehicles with mostly positive results. I noticed that all of the seal kits you've listed have poor to mediocre ratings for various reasons (and one is discontinued). At this point would you still recommend the kit you used? For anyone that follows, is there a better kit out there? TIA!
Since I have done the video over four years ago, it is hard to find sellers of these kits. The ones I originally used are different now. I have tried to update links when possible.
You need to measure the noise near your head, not in a cupholder.
Yes, that would have been a better, thanks for the suggestion.
I bought from a different seller on Amazon and after watching your video there are a couple differences:
1. the front door seal only covers the bottom of the door on mine, yours covers also along the vertical side (I'm not referring to the A pillar, but the door itself)
2. for the B pillar on the back door, mine states to install in the inside of that frame, yours seems to be on the outer side for the front of that back door....
Yes, I have noticed the various kits available online have different designs. It's hard to say which way is better.
Just installed and have not had a chance to try. Thanks for your great video, had to play it a couple of times. The glue enhancement packages were dry barely enough to wet the surface. We need a better way to keep it from drying up so quickly. I hope the tape on the insulation is good enough.
The adhesion packs were wet for me. FYI, you can add isopropyl alcohol to these wipes so they become wet again.
I pick up my model 3 tomorrow & I’m super excited, but what I find crazy is that I’m spending all this money on after market accessories when TESLA should include these things on an already expensive car & yes I said expensive because over the past 18 yrs I’ve driven a BMW & 2 Mercedes & the TESLA ain’t cheap.
Yes, Tesla vehicles are not cheap. As far as accessories go, I've bought lots of accessories for other cars I have owned. However, there are some areas that Tesla does need to improve, including the interior. The good thing is that over time you will see a savings in expense due to less maintenance.
I have had problems with the existing rubber pad in the door when closing slowly make wear marks on the paint. I put PPF on the spot that was starting to wear. If this seal presses against paint when it closes, I would be concerned it would also wear the paint and might require PPF at the point of contact to reduce wear.
Unfortunately, there is a wide range of tolerances in Tesla vehicles. I just checked my door seals and where they touch the paint. No issues at all. Thanks for pointing that out.
Tesla factory should have included this
In order to produce so many x car in so short time you have to cut the cost somewhere. E tron and Mercedes EQC have lower production volum but their car are soundproof and have decent quality.
Tesla factory should have included everything. They should know better. How dare they!!!
@@xxZerosumxx u being sarcastic? I cant see your facial expression:p
dang teslas must be loud inside, even with no engine. my hyundai ioniq hybrid is around 64-66 dbs when driving 80-90 miles per hour on utah highways with loud blizzak winter tires...
It's definitely one of the things they need to work on. Though the new ones are improved with dual pane windows now.
I used similar bulk seals, but only measured 1dB difference.
yes, that is more realistic. His numbers are nonsense
@@AverageJoe3 he used “app” to measure 🙈😂
That is a huge reduction... considering every 1 dB = 10 x louder. 8 dB less is 80% quieter.
I know, it does not seem as drastic as the numbers show. Maybe limits of the iPhone dB testing app.
Looks like BASENOR has sent this kit to all the Tesla Model 3 TH-camrs. The results are mixed. Some are getting a small reduction and some, like you, are getting better results. I am on the fence. Seems like a lot of work if you dont get the reduction. Why do you think there is such mixed results out there?
Vinceand Theresa variation is probably due to the variation of the cars themselves, the installation, and measurements.
By the way, I pay for all of the products in my videos. I do not receive any reimbursements, discounts, etc.
Does it make scratches since the door gap is not designed to have a seal kit?
It's been over five years and not an issue with scratching due to the weather seals.
You covered up all the water escape holes lol. How the water suppose to leave?
I cut the weather stripping around those. I haven’t had any issues in over three years.
@@MTNRanger I did mine but I left that part open.
Where did you get the corner bits? Is there a model S kit?
This came exactly as seen from the kit. It is for a Model 3/Y/S. See the link in the video description. I noticed that the Amazon link now says it works with the Model S too.
Got these for my late year 2018 MS. No need for the forward edges of front and back doors as (at least my MS). Frunk pieces are just about 2 inches short but works well. Trunk is likely unneeded too. But the bottom corners of the front doors are perfect. Cheap at twice the price. Seeing this video and comparing my MS to the M3, I can't imagine why everyone shouldn't buy these for the 3 and the S. Farsala should make an S kit. My doors now sound as tight as any of my prior Mercedes doors. Next step is self install of the Second Skin sound deadening system.
@@rickrparker Sounds good. Tesla Bjorn installed in-wall sound deadening and it really didn't have any affect. I feel the glass and frameless doors contributes most to the noise.
I did this entire thing and the dB isn't noticable at all. My 3 still sounds way too loud in the cabin due to road noise.
Mike S BUT, the seals will keep out dirt and water. For those reason alone is what made me decide on the kit. Any noise reduction is a bonus. Hope you and your family have a great day.
I haven't seen any information about how long it took to install this kit. Any input?
I didn't really time myself. With all of doors and A and B pillars, probably about an hour to an hour and a half. You get faster with each door as you get used to the process.
michael mandel I just installed it yesterday myself. The first door took me nearly half an hour, but then I got everything else finished within the next 40 minutes
You installed it wrong.
You can actually look at the bottom of the door seal when you close one door and leave one open.
You don’t need to cut drainage holes.
My method is according to the manufacturer. th-cam.com/video/GvcmW7UeLhg/w-d-xo.html
Your door will rust. You covered up the drain holes. You need to install it below that. I have put on 7 of these.
The Basenor package of seals was missing an item. The vendor was very difficult to work with, and would not send me the missing part without ordering a complete new set and paying Amazon a second time. The vendor said they would reimburse me.
Sorry to hear. I have noticed it is a lot harder to get a hold of these kits anymore. There used to be a bunch of vendors.
You never show which side of the rubber seal goes toward the edge. The round or the thin flap. 🤦🏽♂️
Which section - front door, rear door, a column or b column?
Do the doors need to be slammed shut?
For my install, the doors close with normal force. You can't lightly swing it and expect it to latch. The trunk required a lot more force.
Tesla Tips by MTN Ranger ya I had to slam my doors to make sure they closed. Became annoying so I took off the rear door seals and the B Pilar seal. Kit is also not designed properly for model Y.
I would still be concerned about the drains even though you cut out a space. As the seal is pressed against the frame then it may only drain when door opens. Has it been rain or car wash tested yet?
Niall O'Toole we have had some big storms over the last couple weeks. Last night was one for example. I just opened all four doors and there was just a couple drops of water here and there - probably from the drains.
@@MTNRanger sounds like it can drain alright. Seen several cover up up without thought. Liked the way you emphasised not blocking them.
I see you cut out a piece of the foam rubber for the door drain. Do the instructions mention to do that?
@@colinhay3501 Here is the seller's video that shows cutting for the drains. th-cam.com/video/GvcmW7UeLhg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for posting this. However, the moral of this story was not to buy them....so just make it a 30 second post.. Sorry you wasted your time.... That said, what accessories are worth it? Just getting ours next week!
Cannot believe 7-8 dB reduction. It would be a miracle. Can anybody else confirm/deny?
yes, this is nonsense. It would be Like 3 times quieter....
M
Jesus, I appreciate the how to video but man, slow the heck down on the fast forwarding. Its damn near impossible for my slow brain to actually comprehend some things on your video because of the fast forwarding nonsense.
i have struggled with this too. I need to balance video length with attention span. I try to keep my videos less than 10-12 minutes, otherwise people don't bother watching an hour long video. I understand that it can be more difficult to watch. I'll try to take that in consideration for future videos.
@@MTNRanger I can see why you would struggle with the choice. I installed the same kit 2 months ago and I found the speed of your video to be perfect. I'm sure that's because of familiarity with the install. You do excellent work and I hope you are enjoying the seals as much as I am. It would not surprise me if Tesla tweeks the build to include them.
I agree. Unfortunately had to stop watching & give a thumbs-down. I clicked on this video in hopes of getting specifics on installation, like exactly how you cut the drain holes and how to align the seal with the metal, based on the shape of the rubber. Also would be nice to hear commentary along the way, like ‘do this or don’t do that or look out for this.’ This was pretty much 13:50 of just fast-forward action.
jcbnsa I’ll keep that in mind for future videos. What it sounds like is I should do a shorter video like I normally do and have a second longer video at full length - say one to two hours to cover it in real time.
Ozzie Alarcon To slow down U-Tube video just “google” how to change speed of video. Hope you and your family have a great day.
That s why you buy E tron or Mercedes EQC. Impeccable soundproofing. Lets the talk begin.
Tesla needs to make the most profit from every car they make.
Audi and MB make money from their other models to make up the loss from their EV lineup that hardly sell
Can’t afford German! Can barely afford this one.
Some videos with those seals show no reduction so i will say pass on this technology
A better way to lower the noise is to use ear plugs :)
Or crank up the music!
Your car is now windproof - not soundproof!
Honestly, it's not really windproof either. Until Tesla uses better multi-ilaminted glass and improves on the frameless door design, wind noise is a concern on Model 3 and Y.
Soooo Tesla can't spring for a few rubber seals to nullify the 250 videos on youtube complaining about road noise in the Model 3? That's called a tone deaf company.
While the door seals help a bit, I feel the main problem is the glass roof. Acoustic laminated glass would yield a big improvement. Secondly, the frameless doors are contributing to noise. Lastly, the wheel wells could use some sound dampening. While Tesla could do those things, I feel they are limited by cost at this point. Hopefully they will improve over time.
Tesla Tips by MTN Ranger
I agree 100%. There are biggest issues are the ones that you just mentioned
@@MTNRanger Dampening materials are pennies at volume. Tesla simply doesn't care. And by not caring, there are 250 complaint videos on youTube. So someone in the company isn't good at weighing bad press vs $75-100 in insulation material.
@@station2station544 What does an extra $100 come to in a million vehicles? If you make a $38k car no expense spared to be the equivalent of a $100k EQV or eTron... you get a Model S. If you want that kind of build quality then be prepared to pay for it.
Phillip.
@@philliptemple4534 Model Y/3 don't have the build quality of a Honda Accord (statement from Car & Driver). And you pass the $100 in dampening materials to the consumer. The $38k car becomes $38,100. Nobody notices, negative TH-cam videos about build quality ends, and sales increase. My neighbor has personally convinced a dozen people to NOT buy a Model Y because he advocates against it based on how noisy and thin his Y is. There is your penny pinching at work.
lol, when you have to get additional seals on 100k car..
The Model 3 starts at $38,990.
@@MTNRanger sure. check tesla forums for that.. but i was talking for teslas in general, theirs body detail work is really bad. not acceptable fro that kind of money (of any kind of money really) in none of eu region.
You don’t have to... I am fine without.
100k$ what car are you talking about? Highest spec TM3 is 70k
$50k for a $10k quality vehicle. Tesla everyone.