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Just found your videos (specifically this one as I have a fuel pump in a 61 Studebaker that I'd like to protect with a cut off) and just wanted to say how impressive they are. Super high quality, very technical but done in a way that is easy to follow/understand. Hope you keep making content!
Thank you! If people keep watching, I’ll keep making them for sure. I’m so glad that so many people have found them helpful!! I’ve got a few cool ideas coming up in the next couple of months. I just need to find the free time to do it all :)
Thanks for the simple explanation. I tried out one of those oil pressure switches, but I couldn't figure out how to wire in a way that would power the pump during starting, so I would have to crank, build oil pressure, then refill the carbs with fuel. Not ideal. This set up should be a lot better, and less points of failure in my oil system
Haha! Thank you so much for watching! The wiring videos are totally rocking right now so I’m going to ride the wave while I can. I actually wanted to get your feedback on something. I’ll reach out via IG in a bit! Also - I was a little sad to see the El camino leaving, but I’m more excited to see what your next adventure is! Glad to hear it’s going to a good home!
Fun fact: TCM is located in the front of engine bay. Simply open their hood, unplug TCM and take one pin off. Plug back in and they will be unable to start
When I got hit on my rear driver side my car would not start anymore so I had it towed to a mechanic and he told me it was a reset button in my trunk that needed to be reset. He only charged me for the tow. I'm assuming it was the inertia switch. It was a 1999 Ford Taurus sedan.
4 decades ago before we had inertia switches I had a car that had a fuel pump relay switched by the oil pressure switch, positive from the ignition negative to the oil pressure switch , pump on the relay n/c . OK for off road cars etc. It had a carburettor so it would still start.
@@WiringRescue Thankyou very much for raising this subject, my classic has no fuel cut off system at all I will be wiring in both, could be a life saver being unconscious with a fuel pump running does not bear thinking about.
I am from Egypt and i keep watching your vidoes Keep on Man ,, you are doing the best vidoes in world Can you make video for wiring Gps tracker with eninge Cutoff relay ,, causr thieves so high here If you read my comment wiill be happy of small reply
I’m glad that you like the videos. It’s really incredible knowing that people around the world are able to learn something from me. I really like your gps idea, but I don’t know anything about how that works. I’ll look into it though! Thanks for watching!
I have been a subscriber for a long time but I stopped watching for quite a while. I ran across this video and I was really impressed! Your presentation skills have improved dramatically, and your explanations are spot on. Keep it up and you may get a following like Chris Fix and you can quit your day job.
Actually that is a good idea if your running a electric fuel pump or two and you get into a accident that hits hard enough to warrant the protection . The fire starts in milliseconds and why feed it so you have less time to escape . I worked at Ford in the 90s we had a few that malfunctioned but Ford fixed them by using a updated switch in the trunk near the tank never seen a comeback after that . That really is a good idea for a lot of reasons on a hot street car or any car for that matter .
My Ford already has one of these inertial switches in the centre console. If I wire up your switch and relay system to the wires on the inertial switch can i use that as a killswitch/security start-stop switch rather than having to run it off the relay under the hood and putting it all the way through to the cabin? Or possibly just run a switch in the wire, without the relay and fuses since it already comes off a fuse in the cabin and has a relay that controls the fuel pump anyway?
Rover used to these identical inertia switches in line with the feed to the pump rather than controlling the fuel pump relay, no chance of a stuck relay keeping the pump running.
That’s interesting! As long as the inertia switch is rated for the proper amperage for the fuel pump, that seems like a fine way of doing it! Thanks for watching!
Hi, this is a great video and it really helped with a retro fit of an electric fuel pump on to a 1972 Spitfire. Now here is the part I am struggling with. With the same set up that you have demonstrated, how would I wire a warning light into the circuit so that if the inertia switch is activated (pot holes) I have an visual aid on the dash to tell me the inertia switch has activated and the fuel pump has now turned off? Any help would be greatly appreciated. All the best, Gary
Wire a test light on the pump side of the inertia switch. Drill a hole in the dash somewhere and install it. It will flash on and off while the engine is running as the ECU cuts the pump on and off to maintain the proper fuel pressure. It will also come on for a few seconds as soon as you turn on the ignition switch as the ECU brings the fuel pressure up to the specified level. The test light could be an LED with a 600 ohm resistor wired in series with it or it could just be a 12 v incandescent instrument lamp, like the kind that light up your speedometer and dash.
Jeremy, you suggested a switch on the dashboard with relays. I have a similar issue with installing this on a 1993 GMC 3500. The 25 Amp fuse wàs shorted. The running lights are on all the time while running. But no headlights. With a new switch and bulbs installed. Can this shorted 25 Amp fuse under driver's side dash be converted to a switch like you suggested? Please diagram and explain it. Thanks. Lynn
4:16 That "C" does not stand for "Control", it stands for "Common". JFYI, the normally open can be used to install an indicator light, buzzer, or to some control module (if you wanna get fancy). A buzzer would be very useful if someone were to bump you in the parking lot, and when you try to start your car, the buzzer comes on right next to the switch.
Totally agreed, I know it is common, but apparently just had a brain meltdown when talking through this video. Sorry about that and thanks for the point of clarification.
@RattyMuscleCar Not a problem. Sometimes, when someone missspeaks and says the wrong word, even tho they know the correct word, it might misinform a viewer. Then it can start the game of telephone. As in, they go to the store and ask for the switch that has the "Control" connection, and the guy at the counter looks at the guy confused and says, "What!"
@@AztecWarrior69_69 the morons working at the parts store have no idea what most people are talking about. If it's not listed on the computer screen, they are dumbfounded. Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch, you're going to ask for an inertia switch. I get the feeling that you are the guy who is a self declared expert on everything and like to hear yourself talk... the guy no one likes at the party.
@@TheRoadhammer379 "@Aztec_Warrior69 the morons working at the parts store have no idea what most people are talking about. If it's not listed on the computer screen, they are dumbfounded. Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch, you're going to ask for an inertia switch. I get the feeling that you are the guy who is a self declared expert on everything and like to hear yourself talk... the guy no one likes at the party." When you read my comment, somehow in your brain it translated into, "Tell me you work at an auto parts store without telling me your work at an auto parts store." which made your reply " the morons working at the parts store" then continued with yours brain dead comment. "Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch" Where did I say that they were going to be specifically asking for an inertia switch? I just said " they go to the store and ask for the switch that has the "Control" connection," I know you meant this to be in your favor but you only made mypoint even more clear. You said "If it's not listed on the computer screen, they are dumbfounded." So even more reason to have the terminology correct. "Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch, you're going to ask for an inertia switch." Again this pertains to all switches that have a common " I get the feeling that you are the guy who is a self declared expert on everything and like to hear yourself talk." So just because a correction was made to help others your lack of intelligence goes to weak minded assumptions. "the guy no one likes at the party." Says the guy who trying to be the know it all, by failing to inject some weird lackluster correction. Yeah, it clearly show you don't even get invited to the parties. I feel bad for you.
Great video but Noob question here sorry so I’m in the middle of installing a walbro fuel pump on my charger scatpack and I’m installing a relay and I inline fuse so the wiring would be pretty similar to this correct minus the inertia switch and instead of a wire going to a spst switch it would be spliced into my ignition wire instead so the pump would start when my car starts?
You are on the right track. The thing to consider is when you want the pump to turn on. Should it be when the key is on? Or should it be ONLY when the engine is running. That will determine what wire you use for pin 86. Also check this fuel pump video out. It has some additional details you may find useful th-cam.com/video/8GjvRdssvFI/w-d-xo.html
I’m trying to figure out if my pump is bad or if it’s something in the circuit. I can’t hear it turn on so it’s either bad or the circuit right? I used a voltage tester that lights up red for power and green for ground. I checked those terminals and the left one marked “C” lights up red and the right terminal doesn’t light up at all. Shouldn’t it be lighting up green for ground?
Came across your videos , great job by the way . I'm having a problem with my truck that everyone I talk to is scratching their heads . My marker lights and tail lights and also the dash stays on . I disconnected the switches (toggle) I've pulled all the relays and circuit breakers out and the lights are still on . This is the real head scratcher ..... I disconnected the batteries and the lights stayed on for at least 20 minutes . Any ideas My truck is a 2001 kenworth w900 Any help will be greatly appreciated
Hi Ronald. The easiest way to diagnose this is to get a wiring schematic for the truck. That way you can see where the power is coming from in the light circuit and follow it back to the source. That being said, there are a few things that come to mind. 1. Any weird aftermarket stuff - has the truck had any things added to it around the same time as this problem started? Alarms? Lights? Radios? If so - start with that. Maybe even remove it entirely. 2. For lights to stay on there has to be a source of power. It could be a backup battery of some sort, or a capacitor in some component. I know it sounds crazy but it has to exist, unless your truck is a magical energy source, which is unlikely.
Ronald, did you disconnect each and every battery? You can't simply pull the positive cable off on battery and think the truck is disconnected from the batteries. My peterbilt has to have all the cable links disconnected on the negative side of every battery or else some accessories continue to draw power. My fridge is factory installed and will continue to be powered if I don't disconnect all negative cables, same with my instrument panel and dash cam.
Hello there love the videos, just subscribed. I have a request, I'm thinking of buying the Vevor Diesel Heater 12V from Amazon. Could u maybe do a wire up video of that please? Thanks in advance
Prob a stupid question BUT could this be triggered by a pot hole or say in an autocross environment where you will have a lot a Gs in different corners and brake/acceleration situations?
It definitely could. There are lots of different style inertia switches that can be bought though. An OEM one from a Ford may be the best option because they are designed with potholes and normal daily driving in mind.
@@WiringRescue 100% what I was thinking while looking at switches on amazon. Any reason why these are put onto the fuel side vs say killing an ignition box?
@@chargerman426 - I don’t know for sure - but I imagine car makers may believe that pumping fuel after an accident is the worst case scenario, so that’s their number one thing to shut down. Just a guess though.
It really depends on the mounting of the switch. If you put it on a thin panel then yes. These switches should be mounted on a very solid point on the body or chassis. Best positions are on the front suspension tower or right in the 'A' pillar in front of the front door hinges. This particular switch should not trigger below 10g which is equivalent to about a 20 mph crash.
I have a question that i hope you will reply to, I have a set of 7" jeep headlights in my mk1 golf. All the lights work fine with all their respective sources of power. The issue I am faced with is that the angel eye stays on when indicating and doesnt allow the amber to flash. Is it possible to wire the parklights in such a way where power cuts to the angel eye in the direction Im turning and then back on when the indicators are off.
Love how you did this! Do you know if there is current through the C - NO after you whack it with a hammer? Could be cool to wire it to a service light or something.
You can use both circuits. The NC in series with the relay and the NO to trigger the hazard flashing lights or, as some car companies do, unlock the doors..or both.
PLEASE ..there are to fused triggers......one goes to the battery....but can i install the other lighter fused trigger to the positive side of the coil? thank you
Ford has been using inertia switches since the 1990's, and they have worked really well. Occasionally they do go off unexpectedly due to water intrusion, or minor parking lot accidents. For the most part though, they handle all normal road conditions just fine.
Nice videos ty for sharing, can you help us about safety shutdown relay as a solution, When the ignition is switched on, the relay switches the fuel pump on for about 2 seconds and then shuts it down again, the fuel pump switches on only when a running motor is detected its possible? TIA
Those relays you are linking to seem pretty cheap and flimsy. Seems like they would not hold up in an engine compartment. Do you have experience with them?
There is no reason to fuse the switching leg of the relay as there is no load, only signal. Also the reason these aren't used on race cars is because on a hard launch the inertia switch will often trigger and kill fuel prematurely.
Exactly, it's literally what relays were invented for. And if he insisted on having the switch fused, he could've wired the switch source power to the relay source power, using the single 40 amp fuse.
at 4:20 it is not CONTROL but COMMON . If you look for 5 minutes how electric diagrams are done you will see we often use the therm NO or NC (normally open, normally close). Also your wiring is WRONG. You should never cut the ground for security measures. Always in series of the switchs.
The video is good . But NOT GREAT. ? WHAT SIZE FIUSE DIT YOU USE . WHAT SIZE IS THE BIG FIUSE AND WHAT SIZE IS THE SMALL FIUSE. I am disappointed. I can't finish this project. Without this information
You should probably watch my video that explains what size fuse and wire size you should be using. Hopefully it helps. th-cam.com/video/EhzN6UdnmPA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BIPvQ_w56XvmEXR2
It’s still around I promise! I had to set it aside to get the heat and ceiling finished in the garage. But both are now finished as of this week! So I’ll be wrenching (welding) on it again. Thanks for sticking around! I appreciate you!
Thank You for Watching the Wiring Video!
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I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
You’re very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Excellent! I knew my switch was not wired correctly, your video explained and clearly illustrated the fix…..AWESOME
Awesome! That’s exactly what I hope to do! Thanks for watching!
Just found your videos (specifically this one as I have a fuel pump in a 61 Studebaker that I'd like to protect with a cut off) and just wanted to say how impressive they are. Super high quality, very technical but done in a way that is easy to follow/understand. Hope you keep making content!
Thank you! If people keep watching, I’ll keep making them for sure. I’m so glad that so many people have found them helpful!!
I’ve got a few cool ideas coming up in the next couple of months. I just need to find the free time to do it all :)
I'll be using this when I build my fuel system and install my new fuse panel this winter! Priceless content man! Thanks a bunch!!
Great explanation and demonstration. Very well done. Nothing like a detailed explanation. Excellent channel 👍
Thank you for watching! I’m glad you enjoy the videos I make!
THANKS JEREMY ..... PEOPLE LIKE YOU ARE A GOD - SEND !!!!!🌅🌅
Thanks for the simple explanation. I tried out one of those oil pressure switches, but I couldn't figure out how to wire in a way that would power the pump during starting, so I would have to crank, build oil pressure, then refill the carbs with fuel. Not ideal. This set up should be a lot better, and less points of failure in my oil system
Thanks a lot that was crystal clear
Excellent! That’s the best I could hope for! I appreciate you watching!
Awesome video man! Killing it with these wiring explanation vids!
Haha! Thank you so much for watching! The wiring videos are totally rocking right now so I’m going to ride the wave while I can. I actually wanted to get your feedback on something. I’ll reach out via IG in a bit!
Also - I was a little sad to see the El camino leaving, but I’m more excited to see what your next adventure is! Glad to hear it’s going to a good home!
Great detail. Crystal clear. Thank you!
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it!
Thanks for your info was wiring me talbot for an ele pump would have melted me wiring if didn’t see your video thank you
All works great
Fun fact: I you know where they're located on Ford products, you can prank your friends by whacking their car in strategic places.
Fun fact: TCM is located in the front of engine bay. Simply open their hood, unplug TCM and take one pin off. Plug back in and they will be unable to start
Panther flatforms had it in the trunk on the drivers side.
Fun Fact: Anyone fucking with my vehicle in any kinda manner, will get their ass beat.
Put inside the headliner so you can slap the roof like a car salesman to disable the car.
I actually own a much smaller hammer. This was a good video thank you for sharing. I appreciate you
Thanks for watching and being someone that appreciates a small hammer.
Really cool info in a way that is easy to understand. Thank you!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad you found it easy to understand!
When I got hit on my rear driver side my car would not start anymore so I had it towed to a mechanic and he told me it was a reset button in my trunk that needed to be reset. He only charged me for the tow. I'm assuming it was the inertia switch. It was a 1999 Ford Taurus sedan.
Come on maaaaannnnn.... the C stands for common!
Love your vids man!
Lol. Whoops. I can’t believe I said that. Ah well. Too late! Thanks for watching friend!
exactly what I was looking for excellently explained thank you
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
Very good demonstration brother
4 decades ago before we had inertia switches I had a car that had a fuel pump relay switched by the oil pressure switch, positive from the ignition negative to the oil pressure switch , pump on the relay n/c . OK for off road cars etc. It had a carburettor so it would still start.
Yes! Chevy trucks in the 1980’s had those, it was a great design!
@@WiringRescue Thankyou very much for raising this subject, my classic has no fuel cut off system at all I will be wiring in both, could be a life saver being unconscious with a fuel pump running does not bear thinking about.
I am from Egypt and i keep watching your vidoes
Keep on Man ,, you are doing the best vidoes in world
Can you make video for wiring Gps tracker with eninge Cutoff relay ,, causr thieves so high here
If you read my comment wiill be happy of small reply
I’m glad that you like the videos. It’s really incredible knowing that people around the world are able to learn something from me.
I really like your gps idea, but I don’t know anything about how that works. I’ll look into it though!
Thanks for watching!
hands down! excellent work Ratty Muscle Car.
Thank you! I appreciate it! Stay tuned, I’ve got more coming!
You do a great teaching job
Thank you, I really appreciate that! Thank you for watching!
I have been a subscriber for a long time but I stopped watching for quite a while. I ran across this video and I was really impressed! Your presentation skills have improved dramatically, and your explanations are spot on. Keep it up and you may get a following like Chris Fix and you can quit your day job.
You're awesome man.
Tem um relé temporizado ( Bosch LE Jetronic) que corta quando cessam os pulsos da bobina de ignição. Também é outra proteção que pode ser acrescentada
Just subbed!! 🎉 love your channel please keep them coming 😁👍
Actually that is a good idea if your running a electric fuel pump or two and you get into a accident that hits hard enough to warrant the protection . The fire starts in milliseconds and why feed it so you have less time to escape . I worked at Ford in the 90s we had a few that malfunctioned but Ford fixed them by using a updated switch in the trunk near the tank never seen a comeback after that . That really is a good idea for a lot of reasons on a hot street car or any car for that matter .
Great informative video ✌🏼
Glad you think so! Good luck with your project!
My Ford already has one of these inertial switches in the centre console. If I wire up your switch and relay system to the wires on the inertial switch can i use that as a killswitch/security start-stop switch rather than having to run it off the relay under the hood and putting it all the way through to the cabin?
Or possibly just run a switch in the wire, without the relay and fuses since it already comes off a fuse in the cabin and has a relay that controls the fuel pump anyway?
Very interesting, thanks friend!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Rover used to these identical inertia switches in line with the feed to the pump rather than controlling the fuel pump relay, no chance of a stuck relay keeping the pump running.
That’s interesting! As long as the inertia switch is rated for the proper amperage for the fuel pump, that seems like a fine way of doing it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Cheers 🍻
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
Another great video!
Thank you so much ! I’m glad you, and so many others are liking them!
So that's how that works ...👍😎👍
Right?! Very cool, simply design. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks.
You’re very welcome!
Hey hi.., I really enjoy your video and I learn a lot from them. CAN YOU DO ONE ON HOW TO WIRE SPARK PLUG AND COIL PLEASE
Excellent. Thanks
Hi, this is a great video and it really helped with a retro fit of an electric fuel pump on to a 1972 Spitfire. Now here is the part I am struggling with. With the same set up that you have demonstrated, how would I wire a warning light into the circuit so that if the inertia switch is activated (pot holes) I have an visual aid on the dash to tell me the inertia switch has activated and the fuel pump has now turned off? Any help would be greatly appreciated. All the best, Gary
Wire a test light on the pump side of the inertia switch. Drill a hole in the dash somewhere and install it. It will flash on and off while the engine is running as the ECU cuts the pump on and off to maintain the proper fuel pressure. It will also come on for a few seconds as soon as you turn on the ignition switch as the ECU brings the fuel pressure up to the specified level. The test light could be an LED with a 600 ohm resistor wired in series with it or it could just be a 12 v incandescent instrument lamp, like the kind that light up your speedometer and dash.
معلم كهرباء سيارات ممتاز
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
if I have this wired into my old Off Road crawler- would it shut itself off whenever I came off or hit a rock fairly hard as in rock crawling?
What if you have (2) fuel pumps and (2) tanks - left side, ride side? Can you splice a wire?
Jeremy, you suggested a switch on the dashboard with relays. I have a similar issue with installing this on a 1993 GMC 3500. The 25 Amp fuse wàs shorted. The running lights are on all the time while running. But no headlights. With a new switch and bulbs installed. Can this shorted 25 Amp fuse under driver's side dash be converted to a switch like you suggested? Please diagram and explain it.
Thanks.
Lynn
For the people that don't know, you don't have to put a fuse on the switch. That's if you want
Awesome🙌🏻
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Maybe a good idea to use it to kill ignition to.
Awesome!
4:16 That "C" does not stand for "Control", it stands for "Common".
JFYI, the normally open can be used to install an indicator light, buzzer, or to some control module (if you wanna get fancy). A buzzer would be very useful if someone were to bump you in the parking lot, and when you try to start your car, the buzzer comes on right next to the switch.
Totally agreed, I know it is common, but apparently just had a brain meltdown when talking through this video. Sorry about that and thanks for the point of clarification.
@RattyMuscleCar Not a problem. Sometimes, when someone missspeaks and says the wrong word, even tho they know the correct word, it might misinform a viewer. Then it can start the game of telephone. As in, they go to the store and ask for the switch that has the "Control" connection, and the guy at the counter looks at the guy confused and says, "What!"
@@AztecWarrior69_69 - very true! Sorry about that.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 the morons working at the parts store have no idea what most people are talking about. If it's not listed on the computer screen, they are dumbfounded. Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch, you're going to ask for an inertia switch. I get the feeling that you are the guy who is a self declared expert on everything and like to hear yourself talk... the guy no one likes at the party.
@@TheRoadhammer379 "@Aztec_Warrior69 the morons working at the parts store have no idea what most people are talking about. If it's not listed on the computer screen, they are dumbfounded. Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch, you're going to ask for an inertia switch. I get the feeling that you are the guy who is a self declared expert on everything and like to hear yourself talk... the guy no one likes at the party."
When you read my comment, somehow in your brain it translated into, "Tell me you work at an auto parts store without telling me your work at an auto parts store." which made your reply " the morons working at the parts store" then continued with yours brain dead comment.
"Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch"
Where did I say that they were going to be specifically asking for an inertia switch? I just said
" they go to the store and ask for the switch that has the "Control" connection,"
I know you meant this to be in your favor but you only made mypoint even more clear.
You said "If it's not listed on the computer screen, they are dumbfounded."
So even more reason to have the terminology correct.
"Who goes to the store and asks for a switch with a control connection? If you are even remotely intelligent enough to know how and why you need an inertia switch, you're going to ask for an inertia switch."
Again this pertains to all switches that have a common
" I get the feeling that you are the guy who is a self declared expert on everything and like to hear yourself talk."
So just because a correction was made to help others your lack of intelligence goes to weak minded assumptions.
"the guy no one likes at the party."
Says the guy who trying to be the know it all, by failing to inject some weird lackluster correction. Yeah, it clearly show you don't even get invited to the parties.
I feel bad for you.
Great video but Noob question here sorry so I’m in the middle of installing a walbro fuel pump on my charger scatpack and I’m installing a relay and I inline fuse so the wiring would be pretty similar to this correct minus the inertia switch and instead of a wire going to a spst switch it would be spliced into my ignition wire instead so the pump would start when my car starts?
You are on the right track. The thing to consider is when you want the pump to turn on. Should it be when the key is on? Or should it be ONLY when the engine is running. That will determine what wire you use for pin 86. Also check this fuel pump video out. It has some additional details you may find useful th-cam.com/video/8GjvRdssvFI/w-d-xo.html
I’m trying to figure out if my pump is bad or if it’s something in the circuit. I can’t hear it turn on so it’s either bad or the circuit right? I used a voltage tester that lights up red for power and green for ground. I checked those terminals and the left one marked “C” lights up red and the right terminal doesn’t light up at all. Shouldn’t it be lighting up green for ground?
Came across your videos , great job by the way . I'm having a problem with my truck that everyone I talk to is scratching their heads . My marker lights and tail lights and also the dash stays on . I disconnected the switches (toggle) I've pulled all the relays and circuit breakers out and the lights are still on . This is the real head scratcher ..... I disconnected the batteries and the lights stayed on for at least 20 minutes . Any ideas
My truck is a 2001 kenworth w900
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Hi Ronald. The easiest way to diagnose this is to get a wiring schematic for the truck. That way you can see where the power is coming from in the light circuit and follow it back to the source.
That being said, there are a few things that come to mind.
1. Any weird aftermarket stuff - has the truck had any things added to it around the same time as this problem started? Alarms? Lights? Radios? If so - start with that. Maybe even remove it entirely.
2. For lights to stay on there has to be a source of power. It could be a backup battery of some sort, or a capacitor in some component. I know it sounds crazy but it has to exist, unless your truck is a magical energy source, which is unlikely.
Ronald, did you disconnect each and every battery? You can't simply pull the positive cable off on battery and think the truck is disconnected from the batteries. My peterbilt has to have all the cable links disconnected on the negative side of every battery or else some accessories continue to draw power. My fridge is factory installed and will continue to be powered if I don't disconnect all negative cables, same with my instrument panel and dash cam.
👍
Could you possibly do a multi function rotary turn switch setup in the near future
Maybe. Got a link to the rotary switch you are hoping to see?
Hello there love the videos, just subscribed. I have a request, I'm thinking of buying the Vevor Diesel Heater 12V from Amazon. Could u maybe do a wire up video of that please? Thanks in advance
can u use inertia switch to turn on? like airbags
Prob a stupid question BUT could this be triggered by a pot hole or say in an autocross environment where you will have a lot a Gs in different corners and brake/acceleration situations?
It definitely could. There are lots of different style inertia switches that can be bought though. An OEM one from a Ford may be the best option because they are designed with potholes and normal daily driving in mind.
@@WiringRescue 100% what I was thinking while looking at switches on amazon. Any reason why these are put onto the fuel side vs say killing an ignition box?
@@chargerman426 - I don’t know for sure - but I imagine car makers may believe that pumping fuel after an accident is the worst case scenario, so that’s their number one thing to shut down. Just a guess though.
It really depends on the mounting of the switch. If you put it on a thin panel then yes. These switches should be mounted on a very solid point on the body or chassis. Best positions are on the front suspension tower or right in the 'A' pillar in front of the front door hinges.
This particular switch should not trigger below 10g which is equivalent to about a 20 mph crash.
How would you wire a single 12V key on switch to multiple Accessories?
excuse me
I have questions that
how many amps fuse to set? according to feul pump?
thanks
I have a question that i hope you will reply to, I have a set of 7" jeep headlights in my mk1 golf. All the lights work fine with all their respective sources of power. The issue I am faced with is that the angel eye stays on when indicating and doesnt allow the amber to flash. Is it possible to wire the parklights in such a way where power cuts to the angel eye in the direction Im turning and then back on when the indicators are off.
Absolutely
Can u do a video about car sound system
Yes - though I need to gather up all the components first. At the moment I have none. So it could be a little while.
Love how you did this! Do you know if there is current through the C - NO after you whack it with a hammer? Could be cool to wire it to a service light or something.
He's not using it like that, he's switching GROUND, not power.
You can use both circuits. The NC in series with the relay and the NO to trigger the hazard flashing lights or, as some car companies do, unlock the doors..or both.
Oh that's clever! Keep up the great work
Can u do a demonstration on wiring a window motor with relay to where u have to reverse the polarity
They have cheap polarity reversing relays on Amazon... They reverse with a trigger from a switch, either ground or power.
PLEASE ..there are to fused triggers......one goes to the battery....but can i install the other lighter fused trigger to the positive side of the coil? thank you
Could this switch work on an electric vehicle???
It would depend on the circuits in the electric vehicle. Every vehicle is different.
The switch will take 20 amps absolute maximum, so you can't put it directly in series. However you can use it in conjunction with a relay.
Been awhile bro hope you been well
All is well here! Thanks for watching, as always! I appreciate it!
@@WiringRescue anytime took me months to re find your channel I stopped getting notifications even though I'm subscribed
Genial
What size wire do you use
Can u please do spark plug wiring?
Can I get the link for that fuse box you showed
It’s actually in the description of the video already. Check it out there. :)
But will that trip if you are on a very bumpy road or in a rough riding vehicle
Ford has been using inertia switches since the 1990's, and they have worked really well. Occasionally they do go off unexpectedly due to water intrusion, or minor parking lot accidents. For the most part though, they handle all normal road conditions just fine.
I gave you a like just because of your schematics. Watch later ☺️
I appreciate that! Thank you!
Is this Garand thumb? ;)
I accidentally tried to push a drill bit through my thumb. Luckily, I failed!
Please make automotive ac wiring
trying to do something like that for a 2010 Toyota tundra kill switch to cut power ton fuel pump
fuse amps?
Nice videos ty for sharing, can you help us about safety shutdown relay as a solution, When the ignition is switched on, the relay switches the fuel pump on for about 2 seconds and then shuts it down again, the fuel pump switches on only when a running motor is detected
its possible? TIA
Those relays you are linking to seem pretty cheap and flimsy. Seems like they would not hold up in an engine compartment. Do you have experience with them?
Я не понял но интересно
There is no reason to fuse the switching leg of the relay as there is no load, only signal.
Also the reason these aren't used on race cars is because on a hard launch the inertia switch will often trigger and kill fuel prematurely.
Exactly, it's literally what relays were invented for. And if he insisted on having the switch fused, he could've wired the switch source power to the relay source power, using the single 40 amp fuse.
at 4:20 it is not CONTROL but COMMON . If you look for 5 minutes how electric diagrams are done you will see we often use the therm NO or NC (normally open, normally close). Also your wiring is WRONG. You should never cut the ground for security measures. Always in series of the switchs.
The video is good . But NOT GREAT. ? WHAT SIZE FIUSE DIT YOU USE . WHAT SIZE IS THE BIG FIUSE AND WHAT SIZE IS THE SMALL FIUSE. I am disappointed. I can't finish this project. Without this information
You should probably watch my video that explains what size fuse and wire size you should be using. Hopefully it helps. th-cam.com/video/EhzN6UdnmPA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BIPvQ_w56XvmEXR2
Looking for a new video on the 64 wagon. Respectfully, losing interest.
It’s still around I promise! I had to set it aside to get the heat and ceiling finished in the garage. But both are now finished as of this week! So I’ll be wrenching (welding) on it again. Thanks for sticking around! I appreciate you!
"C" means common, not control.
You are totally right. I clearly had a brain fart when I said that. Whoops! Good catch!
@@WiringRescue sorry bro