Took my back wheel off, cassette off, ball bearings out, cleaned, re greased, reassembled, put back wheel back on. Rode 13 miles, AND IT DIDN'T FALL OFF! This is significant progress for me. :) Why am I telling you people this? Because I am pathetically proud of myself for having done that, and I think that at least some of you will understand. :) Couldn't have done it without the help of GCN Videos. Thanks.
I know this was 4 years ago for you but congrats man! I just replaced a freewheel and overhauled a rear hub on my single speed road bike. First for me as well. I've only ever replaced a freewheel on a bmx bike and that's about the most I've ever done hah.
Not usually one to comment, but your videos (this and others) have been an incredibly helpful and comprehensive collection for someone just starting out with bike maintenance. Thanks very much!
Holy cow, this is one of the best maintenance videos I've seen on TH-cam in a long time. The explanation is clear, the video shows clearly what and where to do, and also all the required tools are mentioned. +1 for me, thanks.
UBI graduate, here! The perfect adjustment can be achieved by adjusting your hubs to the point when fully assembled and placed in the drop-outs, the wheel should have the tiniest bit of play when the quick release is only halfway engaged; when the quick release is then fully closed, NO play should be present! This loss of play happens due to the quick release compressing the axle just a fractional amount. Again, slight play when slightly tight; no play when fully secured. Happy wrenching!
Just did this for all my Shimano hubbed bikes this weekend and completely replaced the rear axle on one, so this is one GCN video I didn't need to watch - but it was fun watching non the less :.)
Thank you ! I noticed this morning that there was a bit of play in the back wheel. Thought - No sweat, there'll be a GCN Video with the tips and traps to know on this. And of course there was. GCN = Invaluable cycling resource. Kudos.
"Don't remove from the freewheel side". Uh oh. "Make sure you remember which side the ball bearings came from". UH OH. "Don't spray degreaser on the rear hub". UHH OHHH!
You seem like "okay, okay i got it" and "why didnt you tell me sooner" kind of guy". Well i guess me too, read manual and instructions after things go south lol
I'd say I'm pretty lucky to have found your channel! After about 15 years, I've bought a cycle now (hybrid). 3 days in, rear wheel wobble! This video really helped me understand what the issue is about, so thank you!
Thanks so much for this high-quality, very informative videos. I'd like to make just a few points that seem worth adding/augmenting: First, if you have a disk brake, you may want to remove it and set it aside first to avoid contaminating it with oil and grease (in which case degreaser and/or rubbing alcohol can be used). Secondly, for first-time DIY'ers (like me), you may not have an adequate impression of how important and fine/tricky the final cone tension/adjustment is. Even if you hold the cone spanner steady while tightening the lock nut, the axle may rotate from the underside--so that you may need some extra help to hold, or better, an axle vise grip to secure the drive-side axle while you tighten the non-drive side. Moreover, if you have a quick release system, this will add more tightness to the system once mounted, so you may want to leave a little play. Better, to simulate the effect of the quick-release, use 10 or 11mm socket wrenches to cover the axles on both sides, insert your quick release and tighten it up--and now finish adjusting your cone tension. I'd be interested in any comments you have on this too, team GCN. thanks,
The same thing happened to me! changed the cones on my Shimano RS561 rear wheel 4 days ago as they where worn out ( never wash these hubs with a lot of water pressure!). Then today I saw this video from GCN. :D Made things clearer though. I think the tougher part is finding the balance between an overtightened and a loose lock nut. Nicely explained! thanks
At 4:20 really useful tip for me - "new grease....needs time to get bedded in" so check cone nuts again after a few spins to make sure there is no play.
Thus video saved me so much time. I turns out I was overconfident and tried doing it myself. 1st try put a part backwards. 2nd try tightend the axle to much. 3rd ti.e found this video. Turns out third times a charm
To get the dust covers off I used to use a piece of timber against the wheel flange/spokes and a ring spanner small enough to fit inside the dust cover (axle removed) and gently lever out a little at a time using the timber as a fulcrum. My method didnt damage the dust cover at all. Installing was easy by simply tapping them in around their perimeter. I found that water in the bearing races destroyed cup and cone surfaces by cavitatation. I found cassette bearings to be a great idea until they needed adjusting. I just lived with the slight slack, as the hassle free benefits outweighed the perfection of cup and cone most of the time on my tourer/commuter The best innovation came with an outrigger bearing on the rear wheel under the sprocket freewheel,
I have a pair of needle-nose pliers which I'm careful not to magnetize. I worry that using a magnet will magnetize the bearings, and the tiny bits of metal that break off through normal wear will stay stuck right onto the ball which will cause wear much more quickly than if the worn-off metal was allowed to just find some quiet corner of the hub just adjacent to where the metal parts contact one-another.
This was extremely helpful and answered many questions, thank you sir for including the tools necessary. And incidentally I think the telescopic magnet was genius. lol.
Actually a secret tip is that with shimano loose bearings it is easy to trial different greases and spacings ( slight wheel side to side movement). I have replaced the greases width AMG chemicals White Lithium grease. This grease is harder to pack the balls so do this indoors in air conditioning. You won’t ever use any other grease period. Only downfall is you will have to service your hubs more often as the AMG white lithium is very slick but will not gunk up.
Sometimes it is best to use an axle vise when making final bearing adjustment. The axle will often rotate even when holding the cone in place, making adjustments a hassle. Also, I usually just replace the bearings with new one as they are quite inexpensive.
David Shipp Agreed, but it’s a shame that bicycle components cost a fortune to begin with. Every time I have an issue, those prices annoy me to no end.
@@explosivemallard8038 Agreed, as far as I know motorcycle components are cheaper and more standardized. Might be due to fact that cycling is seen as luxury sport in most of the world and not a boring means of transportation like in some parts of the world.
Perfect timing; was just wondering about all that. My rear wheel's been wobbling and I had no idea until a friend who used to work in a bike shop mentioned about it...
You can make a really cheap grease gun by cutting a very small piece of the corner of a sandwich baggie (that creates your nozzle hole) then pack some grease into the baggie an squeeze it through the corner you just cut (like those bags a baker uses to ice a cake). The bigger piece of the bag you cut off the lager your bead of grease will be. Be careful not to squeeze too hard and split the bag. Have a good one!
If you do like here that's not going to be perfect. There is a chance that I am not right :D If you close the quick release it will over tight the bearing. Always left slightly loose. When you close your quick release it will squeeze the system. How you can check that :) Set your bearing like in the video. Take some fat washer put on the axle (use like the frame) after close the quick release and try to spin the axle you will feel immediately what I am talking about. After that loose it a bit try again play until than it will be perfect.
Thanks helped me sort my rear wheel, after the cone came loose after fixing a puncture & bearings fell out, I put them back in, but with it being quick release tightening it up happens when you put the wheel on & lock it in place!
From the video, it might appear that the final step of adjusting the bearing play is quick, easy and not very important, but actually it is the most important and affects how long your wheels will last. As little as 1/16 of a turn can make a big difference. This video seems to be sponsored by wheel manufacturers who want you to buy new wheelset every year.
Thanks for this comment. I researched more and found with "cone adjustment on quick release" I have to find balance between slight play in the axel when QR is loose and no play when it is tightened, however with the wheel still able to turn as freely in either case (which can be tested by letting it fall to the valve/heaviest point and pendulum swing). This page was very helpful www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html , btw, in neglecting this aspect you're right that the missing information could cause plenty of amateurs to prematurely destroy their hubs.
so how do you get JUST the right tightness? I usually tighten just past when the axle stops wiggling, since I'm highly scientific...i also never reinspect tightness after grease "seats" itself... oops.
+LA prepper, sorry so late but maybe still helpful for you. I have been watching hours of this stuff and the best I have found is to tighten the hub as little as possible while still not giving it enough play to be able to wiggle back and forth. The less torque you have on the bearings, the easier they will be able to roll in the races, but if it's so loose that it moves back and forth I think that might cause some trouble. I wish you the best, if you come up with any other info on this would love to hear it. Happy biking!
You've just got some jockeying to do to get everything back together in the proper place. Not impossible, just annoying. The good news is, you'll never do that again.
As long as one uses appropriate grease, ideally a bit softer than NGLI 2 auto grease, there is no such thing as bearings "bedding in", unless perhaps you overpack too full(especially sealed bearings use only a 25-30% fill, whatever that means?!). Some types of hubs, like older Dura-Ace 7800 and many Campy hubs can be fine-adjusted in the bike frame, with QR tightened. Otherwise, re-checking for play/binding then re-adjusting as needed should be accomplished within one ride, then likely not again until the next overhaul.
3:24 so true.. We should be able to buy spares, but are harder and harder to source when every manufacturer is trying to selle you a new product itself.
What is the rationale in specifically removing the cone on the non-drive side? Asking for a friend who may or may not have already removed the drive-side cone first.
it'd be super nice if you could also show how smooth is the wheel supposed to be moving after the cleanup. My rear wheel was a bit loose, so I didn't just clean up the bearings, I completely replaced them. It's not loose anymore, but still it feels a bit "stiff", and when I spin it, it doesn't keep moving as much as I'd hope... my MTB's wheel looks a lot more smooth. I'm pretty sure the axle isn't too tight, since I get the same results no matter how much I loose it. Need more grease? It's not supposed to be that smooth?
At 3:20, you say ''There may some wear evident. If this is the case, then it might be time to replace the hub. .... spares are hard to come by these days?'' I cannot hear well what that last sentence is, regarding the spares. Can someone help me out?
Even with holding the cone in place the axel will likely rotate when tightening the looknut and the bearing preload setting is messed up. How do you deal with that?
Ik watching back on th8s video as I've been having issues with my reap wheel. I dont understand why yours here is so different. Mins goes the nut for the actual bearings then rather than a nut it's the silicon cover to stop rain then a nut. Making it tighten when I tighten the nut rather than staying as is...
Hi mate thanks for vid BIG! help, got a question if you dont mind, ive not started taking mine apart yet as i need to make sure i can put it back together, i have noticed with my shimano HG200 cassette its loose, well its got some play in it u can wiggle it about, think my hub is ok because like you do in ur vid (1.20mins) my wheel has no play at all, so would it be something to do with my bearings why my cassette is loose? and if it is what would be the fix? Thanks Matt
Good tutorial 👌 To me it seemed there is no need to actually remove the cassette, just removing the locknuts on the non-drive side should do the trick.
Excellent video once more guys. I bought a new 6700 freehub for my Ultegra wheels. It seems new hubs come without bearings? Perhaps a mistake in my order? The inner side bearings are fixed under the seal (and hopefully pre-lubed), but my hub came with no bearings for the outer, as shown being packed into grease in this video. Also -- the thin spacer/washer that inserts between freehub and hub was bent! Click and Collect with Evans (sent from warehouse) maybe not the best option!
PS I did try servicing the old freehub (4k miles) as per the video, but the pawls still very noisy and still bit of play at the revolution of the wheel I'm happy with. Played safe with new freehub and will service more regularly from now on
Yes the video matches my hub exactly, thanks. Not sure how important the the washer between freehub and hub is though? As mine is bent. Will the tightening onto the hub straighten it out, or is this an accurately machined part which aids to true seal / minimal grime/wet?
So on the non drive side, I shouldnt tight it all the way up or it gets stuck? Am I right?? I just have to tight the screw to make sure there is not too much place for spindle to move around?
Sad to listen to Dan's comment that spares are hard to come by. Time was you just went to your local bike shop and bought replacement cones and bearings. My old Harry Quinn (handmade for me in Liverpool in 1973) still works fine and is easy to maintain. My 2013 Trek Madone 4.5 - the gear shifters pivots are worn but I can't get replacements. So according to my local bike shop I'm looking at an expensive upgrade from 10 to 11 speed. Either that or a new bike. How's that for progress?
Yes, it's horrible. I merely needed a new cone for the rear wheel and the whole set could have lasted who knows how many more years. For the simple reason of a small component, I have had to buy a whole new wheel set. Had a chat about it with the local bike mechanic, only to hear that there where no options and how sad he was with the current state of affairs. The main progress being made seems to be the consolidation of power by the Oligarchy, squeezing costumers out of options as they corner the markets …
@@josboersema1352 I appreciate that the bike component industry is in a state of flux with the pace of advances to equipment. But you'd think Shimano could still provide spares for their 10 speed range. Ironically enough I will soon have to change the bottom bracket in my my old Harry Quinn steel frame and the parts are readily available.
@@bahoonies That's how it should be with everything. Incidentally I also had to change the bottom bracket of my 20 year old Bianchi, and this was also no problem, and cheap. Some people seem to buy spares when they buy a new Shimano group set, because in a few short years there will not be any. I have married a Shimano Claris front derailleur to my 8-speed Shimano Sora group, because the current Sora is no longer 8-speed. I thought I better repair everything with the Claris group. Time to move away from such brands. Too much market share for one company isn't healthy.
@@josboersema1352 Don't you just wish? When I upgrade to 11 speed I'll have to upgrade two training rear wheel freehub bodies as the present ones are 10 speed only. But actually it will be nearly as cheap just to buy two new wheels and be done with it.
Hi I have a case here, I'm using a campagnolo khamsin wheelset. Problem is I just noticed that when I sort of bounce my bike (like drop the front end and bounce the front wheel) the front wheel rattles. I swapped the wheel to another bike and another wheel to the current bike and concluded that it is the front wheel. so I narrowed everything down by muting that may rattle in the front end e.g.. valve, computer mount, brakes etc. I suspect it was the nipple but It is not. I tried to replicate the noise but seems like it won't appear when i bounce he wheel alone. I finally be able to replicate the rattle by squeezing the axle (not the skewer, i remove it) imagine my arm as a fork and my squeezing finger is the dropout and just bounce the wheel on its axle. It leads me to believe that it may the bearing. I don't feel any play in any way. so what do you think? or rather, is it normal? I have several wheel makes like Shimano and HED, none of them seems to rattle. Anyone mind to share any insight?
I have a set of Ultegra hubs that I use on my training wheels since 2006 and have done this every year just after winter. Have yet to replace the bearing or cones and still going strong. Would love to know where you got that magnetic tool from though.
My fulcrum hub on my red metal 3 rim is giving me trouble. The ratchet in the rear hub is starting to make an unnatural sound, almost as if it is broken inside. The hub still rolls smooth though. Is it possible to overhaul and repair the hub?
Why not drill out the front and the rear center between the spokes and put a grease fitting in just pack it full of grease. As long as there's room for the grease fitting to go without hitting the center shaft. And check for play and adjust if necessary? The first time you would have to take it all apart to make sure you didn't hit the center axle but after that lot quicker and easier. On my beach cruiser bike it wouldn't work for the back with the brakes in the hub but it should work on my motorized bicycle possibly if grease fitting doesn't hit the center shaft.
I wish I'd watched this video first! I ended up taking the cones off on both sides, Now I find that axle is not evenly centered and when I go to tighten on the cassette lockring, the tool touches the right hand lock nut and won't allow me to tighten down fully. If I thread the cones towards the left, I end up with difficulty tightening the lockring for the brake disc. Argh. Any tips would be helpful
I used some butter one time because I could not find my grease - It started to make a really horrible grinding noise after about 6 miles which was really annoying as I was out on a club run - it got worse and worse and by the time I got back (68 miles) the wheel was wobbling around in the frame and the grinding was awful. Not only had this method destroyed the ball bearings and cones but also had to rebuild the wheel with new hub as the cups were badly pitted - don't try it!!
Hi,i have a problem with the rear hub. I replaced the rear wheel and bought new axle and cones. Put everithing together nice and tight(not too tight) and rode a bit. After a few miles i had a bit of a play. Tightened the wheel again it was fine but only for a few miles. Took it apart and noticed that the cones are really badly worn but irregularly and the axle was slightly bent. So i got a new axle new cones some riding the same problem,bent axle and badly worn cones. The old wheel could not be trued properly anymore so that's why i got a new but the old wheel did not have this issue ever. It's a freewheel system. Why is this happening ? And what may i do to fix or avoid this next time ?
When putting my rear hub back together I lost track of one of the ball bearings. I don't know if it goes in the inside or outside. How important is one ball bearing? If I put it in the wrong side? If I don't put it in at all?
Came to this video searching for a solution. I cannot identify model of my rear hub. It says Shimano, nothing else. So I will put a part this weekend to see if I can manage it. Bike run approx 25k km and I never looked inside :) so i think it is a time, since my rear wheel is not rolling properly.
UBI graduate, here! The perfect adjustment can be achieved by adjusting your hubs to the point when fully assembled and placed in the drop-outs, the wheel should have the tiniest bit of play when the quick release is only halfway engaged; when the quick release is then fully closed, NO play should be present! This loss of play happens due to the quick release compressing the axle just a fractional amount. Again, slight play when slightly tight; no play when fully secured. Happy wrenching!
Tnx man. But i have regular cone locknut axels.. cant believe something is compressing there. Locknuts in theorie already have done all the bearing tightnes and to me seams its impossible for them to get any compresion by quick release.
After doing some research, i found some sellers on ebay who provide brand new Shimano ball bearing spares, so replacing the rear hub might not be necessary after all!
+Titouan Barthelemy And you are correct about different grades wearing differently. What I've done when I was installing a free-replacement low-quality Shimano hub was to just order high-quality bearings from a bearing supplier in the sizes I measured. Also used synthetic marine boat-trailer bearing grease (green in color, and I have a strong suspicion that it is exactly what Shimano green grease was, but for much lower prices). That hub has lasted through hell and high-water for mountain biking where the exact same model hub that it replaced lasted a few months of hard riding before the lower-quality bearings it came with were scored. Anyway, ball bearings in most all hubs used to be pretty common sizes, so as long as one is changing them before they go bad (because if/when the cheap ones go bad, the hub surface they ride on has been scored), my experience is that good-grade bearings can be a reliability upgrade to a cheap or mid-level hub.
hi guys, i've only ridden 5000km on my shimano rs11 wheels and it feels really rough when the axle is turned. two bike shops i consulted verbally said my cones are probably gone and cleaning wont help... I was adviced to get new wheels since rs11s are so cheap anyway... what do you think?
I haven't serviced my hub in 3 years, only riding in the summer and not daily. is it likely that I will need to replace my hub or maybe the entire wheel?
massivejester it really depends on how much riding you are doing in the summer. It sounds like you may not need to do anything at all - is it still spinning smoothly with no side to side play?
I'm new to trying to understand how my bike actually works but can anyone explain why the cassette gear thing needs to be removed? Doesn't seem to obstruct bearing maintenance or replacement in anyway that I can work out
I had some new engine rods in Ziploc bags with WD-40 and coffee filters. Few years later the rods had some rust on them but not on the bearing Journal luckily. WD-40 has water in it. my door hinges on my car get squeaky I now use oil not WD-40 which causes rust.
Hi GCN :) You got AMAZING videos here in youtube and i almost watched them all! haha BTW.. I cannot find any guide in choosing the right grease (not lube).. How many kinds of grease out there? Marine? Lithium? Which grease is suitable for which part of the bike? ie. Marine for Speedplay pedal? Lithium for seatpost and fork? etc etc.. Just thought it would be cool to see GCN to present such video "Greade Guide" haha.. Peace out!! GCN you ROCKS!!
Hey GCN! can you help me improvise the spring in this type of hub? My hub siezed last week and I think it's because of the weak spring I tried to replace a year ago but I couldn't find one, so I just tried to tighten it but it's still weak and I had no choice but to put it back in. I watched your new video hoping to find ideas, but it didn't feature this kind of hub. I'm on a tight budget. Need help.
Global Cycling Network I'm just going to try again :). I really like the look of those wheel reflectors. Can you tell me who the manufacturer is or where I can buy them?
Took my back wheel off, cassette off, ball bearings out, cleaned, re greased, reassembled, put back wheel back on. Rode 13 miles, AND IT DIDN'T FALL OFF!
This is significant progress for me. :)
Why am I telling you people this? Because I am pathetically proud of myself for having done that, and I think that at least some of you will understand. :)
Couldn't have done it without the help of GCN Videos. Thanks.
Andy Charlton same
I know this was 4 years ago for you but congrats man! I just replaced a freewheel and overhauled a rear hub on my single speed road bike. First for me as well. I've only ever replaced a freewheel on a bmx bike and that's about the most I've ever done hah.
I tried repacking bearings of bike I pulled outta river, lost two or three and front end seized on me. Fun going to class with road rash
Thanks for doing a rear hub, all the other "tutorials" opted for the easier front one.
Not usually one to comment, but your videos (this and others) have been an incredibly helpful and comprehensive collection for someone just starting out with bike maintenance. Thanks very much!
Glad to hear it Hitesh!
Hitesh Dhorajiwala
Hitesh Dhorajiwala
Hitesh Dhorajiwala
Hitesh
Holy cow, this is one of the best maintenance videos I've seen on TH-cam in a long time. The explanation is clear, the video shows clearly what and where to do, and also all the required tools are mentioned. +1 for me, thanks.
UBI graduate, here! The perfect adjustment can be achieved by adjusting your hubs to the point when fully assembled and placed in the drop-outs, the wheel should have the tiniest bit of play when the quick release is only halfway engaged; when the quick release is then fully closed, NO play should be present! This loss of play happens due to the quick release compressing the axle just a fractional amount. Again, slight play when slightly tight; no play when fully secured. Happy wrenching!
VERY interesting method!
Does this also apply for oldschool capping nuts instead of a quick release?
No, because the cap nuts do not cause the axle to compress as the quck-release hollow axles do.
Just did this for all my Shimano hubbed bikes this weekend and completely replaced the rear axle on one, so this is one GCN video I didn't need to watch - but it was fun watching non the less :.)
Thank you ! I noticed this morning that there was a bit of play in the back wheel. Thought - No sweat, there'll be a GCN Video with the tips and traps to know on this. And of course there was.
GCN = Invaluable cycling resource. Kudos.
my front wheels feels like I'm on sand, lol. Not really, but just enough that my body/brain are like "dude, your bike is fucked up..."
"Don't remove from the freewheel side". Uh oh.
"Make sure you remember which side the ball bearings came from". UH OH.
"Don't spray degreaser on the rear hub". UHH OHHH!
LMAOOO
hahaha this is the best comment I've seen in a while
You seem like "okay, okay i got it" and "why didnt you tell me sooner" kind of guy". Well i guess me too, read manual and instructions after things go south lol
"...we're going to leave it in, because you risk deforming the seal if you pry it out with a screwdriver." OHHH SWEET JESUS!
“Remember which way the nuts came off” UHHHH OHHHHHHH
GCN you are gods! A set of x tools and less than an hour and my back drive train is running like cream! Thanks
I'd say I'm pretty lucky to have found your channel! After about 15 years, I've bought a cycle now (hybrid). 3 days in, rear wheel wobble! This video really helped me understand what the issue is about, so thank you!
Thanks so much for this high-quality, very informative videos.
I'd like to make just a few points that seem worth adding/augmenting:
First, if you have a disk brake, you may want to remove it and set it aside first to avoid contaminating it with oil and grease (in which case degreaser and/or rubbing alcohol can be used).
Secondly, for first-time DIY'ers (like me), you may not have an adequate impression of how important and fine/tricky the final cone tension/adjustment is. Even if you hold the cone spanner steady while tightening the lock nut, the axle may rotate from the underside--so that you may need some extra help to hold, or better, an axle vise grip to secure the drive-side axle while you tighten the non-drive side. Moreover, if you have a quick release system, this will add more tightness to the system once mounted, so you may want to leave a little play. Better, to simulate the effect of the quick-release, use 10 or 11mm socket wrenches to cover the axles on both sides, insert your quick release and tighten it up--and now finish adjusting your cone tension.
I'd be interested in any comments you have on this too, team GCN.
thanks,
Cameron Pierce wish I'd thought of removing my disc!
The same thing happened to me! changed the cones on my Shimano RS561 rear wheel 4 days ago as they where worn out ( never wash these hubs with a lot of water pressure!). Then today I saw this video from GCN. :D Made things clearer though.
I think the tougher part is finding the balance between an overtightened and a loose lock nut. Nicely explained! thanks
At 4:20 really useful tip for me - "new grease....needs time to get bedded in" so check cone nuts again after a few spins to make sure there is no play.
Thus video saved me so much time. I turns out I was overconfident and tried doing it myself. 1st try put a part backwards. 2nd try tightend the axle to much. 3rd ti.e found this video. Turns out third times a charm
To get the dust covers off I used to use a piece of timber against the wheel flange/spokes and a ring spanner small enough to fit inside the dust cover (axle removed) and gently lever out a little at a time using the timber as a fulcrum. My method didnt damage the dust cover at all. Installing was easy by simply tapping them in around their perimeter.
I found that water in the bearing races destroyed cup and cone surfaces by cavitatation.
I found cassette bearings to be a great idea until they needed adjusting. I just lived with the slight slack, as the hassle free benefits outweighed the perfection of cup and cone most of the time on my tourer/commuter
The best innovation came with an outrigger bearing on the rear wheel under the sprocket freewheel,
I have a pair of needle-nose pliers which I'm careful not to magnetize. I worry that using a magnet will magnetize the bearings, and the tiny bits of metal that break off through normal wear will stay stuck right onto the ball which will cause wear much more quickly than if the worn-off metal was allowed to just find some quiet corner of the hub just adjacent to where the metal parts contact one-another.
This was extremely helpful and answered many questions, thank you sir for including the tools necessary. And incidentally I think the telescopic magnet was genius. lol.
Actually a secret tip is that with shimano loose bearings it is easy to trial different greases and spacings ( slight wheel side to side movement). I have replaced the greases width AMG chemicals White Lithium grease. This grease is harder to pack the balls so do this indoors in air conditioning. You won’t ever use any other grease period. Only downfall is you will have to service your hubs more often as the AMG white lithium is very slick but will not gunk up.
Thanks again Dan and GCN for a great video and now that will be easier fix the wheels.
Sometimes it is best to use an axle vise when making final bearing adjustment. The axle will often rotate even when holding the cone in place, making adjustments a hassle. Also, I usually just replace the bearings with new one as they are quite inexpensive.
I use my teeth as I can't afford a vice. If I could, I'd become a politician.
@@2Truth2you beyond bizarre.
Absolutely brilliant video saved me a fortune. Thought I was going to need a new set of wheels. Thank you GCN
David Shipp Agreed, but it’s a shame that bicycle components cost a fortune to begin with. Every time I have an issue, those prices annoy me to no end.
@@explosivemallard8038 Agreed, as far as I know motorcycle components are cheaper and more standardized. Might be due to fact that cycling is seen as luxury sport in most of the world and not a boring means of transportation like in some parts of the world.
One of best videos, if not the best!
Thanks mate!
If the bearing surface inside the hub is already pitted, the only option is to completely replace the hub and re-spoke the whole wheel again?
- 4 years later - Yes, if the races (bearing surface) are trashed, the hub is done.
Perfect timing; was just wondering about all that. My rear wheel's been wobbling and I had no idea until a friend who used to work in a bike shop mentioned about it...
You can make a really cheap grease gun by cutting a very small piece of the corner of a sandwich baggie (that creates your nozzle hole) then pack some grease into the baggie an squeeze it through the corner you just cut (like those bags a baker uses to ice a cake). The bigger piece of the bag you cut off the lager your bead of grease will be. Be careful not to squeeze too hard and split the bag. Have a good one!
If you do like here that's not going to be perfect. There is a chance that I am not right :D If you close the quick release it will over tight the bearing. Always left slightly loose. When you close your quick release it will squeeze the system.
How you can check that :) Set your bearing like in the video. Take some fat washer put on the axle (use like the frame) after close the quick release and try to spin the axle you will feel immediately what I am talking about. After that loose it a bit try again play until than it will be perfect.
Brilliant video, very much appreciated by all the home mechanics!
Thanks helped me sort my rear wheel, after the cone came loose after fixing a puncture & bearings fell out, I put them back in, but with it being quick release tightening it up happens when you put the wheel on & lock it in place!
Really good video, never done before and now completed perfectly
From the video, it might appear that the final step of adjusting the bearing play is quick, easy and not very important, but actually it is the most important and affects how long your wheels will last. As little as 1/16 of a turn can make a big difference. This video seems to be sponsored by wheel manufacturers who want you to buy new wheelset every year.
Thanks for this comment. I researched more and found with "cone
adjustment on quick release" I have to find balance between slight play
in the axel when QR is loose and no play when it is tightened, however
with the wheel still able to turn as freely in either case (which can be
tested by letting it fall to the valve/heaviest point and pendulum
swing). This page was very helpful
www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html , btw, in neglecting
this aspect you're right that the missing information could cause plenty
of amateurs to prematurely destroy their hubs.
so how do you get JUST the right tightness? I usually tighten just past when the axle stops wiggling, since I'm highly scientific...i also never reinspect tightness after grease "seats" itself... oops.
+LA prepper, sorry so late but maybe still helpful for you. I have been watching hours of this stuff and the best I have found is to tighten the hub as little as possible while still not giving it enough play to be able to wiggle back and forth. The less torque you have on the bearings, the easier they will be able to roll in the races, but if it's so loose that it moves back and forth I think that might cause some trouble. I wish you the best, if you come up with any other info on this would love to hear it. Happy biking!
What to do when you “hypothetically” undid the driveside locknut and bolt :-/.
You've just got some jockeying to do to get everything back together in the proper place. Not impossible, just annoying. The good news is, you'll never do that again.
Throwback to when Dan spent more time working on bikes rather than working on his hair.
Yea but...Loreal, you are worth it!
Dont hate him because he's beautiful.
As long as one uses appropriate grease, ideally a bit softer than NGLI 2 auto grease, there is no such thing as bearings "bedding in", unless perhaps you overpack too full(especially sealed bearings use only a 25-30% fill, whatever that means?!). Some types of hubs, like older Dura-Ace 7800 and many Campy hubs can be fine-adjusted in the bike frame, with QR tightened. Otherwise, re-checking for play/binding then re-adjusting as needed should be accomplished within one ride, then likely not again until the next overhaul.
3:24 so true.. We should be able to buy spares, but are harder and harder to source when every manufacturer is trying to selle you a new product itself.
excellent info just what i need right now for my rear wheel.
Chapeau GCN! Theres another annoying sound squashed. Thank you thank you thank you!
What is the rationale in specifically removing the cone on the non-drive side? Asking for a friend who may or may not have already removed the drive-side cone first.
Good video but to simplify: Absolutely no need to remove the cassette. And like so many already said, avoid magnets, use a plier.
I don't service my own stuff but it is nice to know how things work!
Great timing, need to do this for the first time ever at some point soon! Thanks :D
This video is excellent, thank you for the demo!
This was very helpful, thank you!
it'd be super nice if you could also show how smooth is the wheel supposed to be moving after the cleanup. My rear wheel was a bit loose, so I didn't just clean up the bearings, I completely replaced them. It's not loose anymore, but still it feels a bit "stiff", and when I spin it, it doesn't keep moving as much as I'd hope... my MTB's wheel looks a lot more smooth. I'm pretty sure the axle isn't too tight, since I get the same results no matter how much I loose it. Need more grease? It's not supposed to be that smooth?
Same issue here if anyone can answer please
I don't know why, but I find how he says 0:53 "Some kind of tray" funny? Reminds me of the "plethora" joke, but with nobody to laugh.
All this was rocket science when I first watched this video. Now I can do it blindfolded.
At 3:20, you say ''There may some wear evident. If this is the case, then it might be time to replace the hub. .... spares are hard to come by these days?'' I cannot hear well what that last sentence is, regarding the spares. Can someone help me out?
he says "spares are hard to come by in this day and age."
So there is no use looking for spare hubs, just buy a wheel?
there is no use looking for spares to go IN your hubs, and you might as well replace the hub.
Are mtb and road bike have the same hubs?
Even with holding the cone in place the axel will likely rotate when tightening the looknut and the bearing preload setting is messed up. How do you deal with that?
Ik watching back on th8s video as I've been having issues with my reap wheel.
I dont understand why yours here is so different.
Mins goes the nut for the actual bearings then rather than a nut it's the silicon cover to stop rain then a nut. Making it tighten when I tighten the nut rather than staying as is...
Hi mate thanks for vid BIG! help, got a question if you dont mind, ive not started taking mine apart yet as i need to make sure i can put it back together, i have noticed with my shimano HG200 cassette its loose, well its got some play in it u can wiggle it about, think my hub is ok because like you do in ur vid (1.20mins) my wheel has no play at all, so would it be something to do with my bearings why my cassette is loose? and if it is what would be the fix? Thanks Matt
you are the best...really useful and perfect video
Great video ! - I love the way this bike is SOO clean ;) - tweezers are good for bearing placement ;)
3:22 "As spares are hard to come by this day and age" oh, little did you know
Is it normal for grease to escape from the hub on the non drive side after servicing??
Going to attempt this today on my RS21s.
Good tutorial 👌
To me it seemed there is no need to actually remove the cassette, just removing the locknuts on the non-drive side should do the trick.
The best tutorial ever! NICE VID! :D
4:18 "bearing mind that you've got new grease here"
This kind of video makes my head hurt. I live above a bike shop, and they do this stuff. But it's nice to know the theory anyway! :-)
Really helpful video, Thanks for the information.
Thank you for you are video,It is very good explaine for me.
Excellent video once more guys. I bought a new 6700 freehub for my Ultegra wheels. It seems new hubs come without bearings? Perhaps a mistake in my order? The inner side bearings are fixed under the seal (and hopefully pre-lubed), but my hub came with no bearings for the outer, as shown being packed into grease in this video. Also -- the thin spacer/washer that inserts between freehub and hub was bent! Click and Collect with Evans (sent from warehouse) maybe not the best option!
PS I did try servicing the old freehub (4k miles) as per the video, but the pawls still very noisy and still bit of play at the revolution of the wheel I'm happy with. Played safe with new freehub and will service more regularly from now on
Daniel Healy sounds like you have it sorted? As far as we know, most Shimano hubs are serviceable using the instructions in the video.
Yes the video matches my hub exactly, thanks. Not sure how important the the washer between freehub and hub is though? As mine is bent. Will the tightening onto the hub straighten it out, or is this an accurately machined part which aids to true seal / minimal grime/wet?
Daniel Healy ideally you'll have a straight one. The sort of thing bike shops have lying around as spares. so worth checking at your local.
When it's all apart, there's play between the wheel and freewheel, ie. freewheel feels not tightly fastened to the hub.
Golden tips 👍
So on the non drive side, I shouldnt tight it all the way up or it gets stuck? Am I right?? I just have to tight the screw to make sure there is not too much place for spindle to move around?
Do you need to put some grease on the actual hub surface that the cassette sits on??
No
Is the axle same thread with solid axle?
Is it possible to change axle with solid one to use nuts?
Loving all the mechanic videos, could you post one on Preping a summer bike for winter hibernation? Thanks
Funny you should mention that, keep your eyes out!
please make a video on how to look cool whilst cycling :)
When should ball bearings be replaced if ever?
So the current 105 hubs can be disassembled. I figured they would be a totally locked down sealed unit like modern bottom brackets.
Should you replace the ball bearings every time you do this or no?
Sad to listen to Dan's comment that spares are hard to come by. Time was you just went to your local bike shop and bought replacement cones and bearings. My old Harry Quinn (handmade for me in Liverpool in 1973) still works fine and is easy to maintain. My 2013 Trek Madone 4.5 - the gear shifters pivots are worn but I can't get replacements. So according to my local bike shop I'm looking at an expensive upgrade from 10 to 11 speed. Either that or a new bike. How's that for progress?
Yes, it's horrible. I merely needed a new cone for the rear wheel and the whole set could have lasted who knows how many more years. For the simple reason of a small component, I have had to buy a whole new wheel set. Had a chat about it with the local bike mechanic, only to hear that there where no options and how sad he was with the current state of affairs. The main progress being made seems to be the consolidation of power by the Oligarchy, squeezing costumers out of options as they corner the markets …
@@josboersema1352 I appreciate that the bike component industry is in a state of flux with the pace of advances to equipment. But you'd think Shimano could still provide spares for their 10 speed range. Ironically enough I will soon have to change the bottom bracket in my my old Harry Quinn steel frame and the parts are readily available.
@@bahoonies That's how it should be with everything. Incidentally I also had to change the bottom bracket of my 20 year old Bianchi, and this was also no problem, and cheap. Some people seem to buy spares when they buy a new Shimano group set, because in a few short years there will not be any. I have married a Shimano Claris front derailleur to my 8-speed Shimano Sora group, because the current Sora is no longer 8-speed. I thought I better repair everything with the Claris group. Time to move away from such brands. Too much market share for one company isn't healthy.
@@josboersema1352 Don't you just wish? When I upgrade to 11 speed I'll have to upgrade two training rear wheel freehub bodies as the present ones are 10 speed only. But actually it will be nearly as cheap just to buy two new wheels and be done with it.
Hi I have a case here, I'm using a campagnolo khamsin wheelset. Problem is I just noticed that when I sort of bounce my bike (like drop the front end and bounce the front wheel) the front wheel rattles. I swapped the wheel to another bike and another wheel to the current bike and concluded that it is the front wheel. so I narrowed everything down by muting that may rattle in the front end e.g.. valve, computer mount, brakes etc. I suspect it was the nipple but It is not. I tried to replicate the noise but seems like it won't appear when i bounce he wheel alone. I finally be able to replicate the rattle by squeezing the axle (not the skewer, i remove it) imagine my arm as a fork and my squeezing finger is the dropout and just bounce the wheel on its axle. It leads me to believe that it may the bearing. I don't feel any play in any way. so what do you think? or rather, is it normal? I have several wheel makes like Shimano and HED, none of them seems to rattle. Anyone mind to share any insight?
Great Vid. You don't need to buy magnet. you can use a magnetized screwdriver! Hack?
I have a set of Ultegra hubs that I use on my training wheels since 2006 and have done this every year just after winter. Have yet to replace the bearing or cones and still going strong.
Would love to know where you got that magnetic tool from though.
thank you for covering everything.
My fulcrum hub on my red metal 3 rim is giving me trouble. The ratchet in the rear hub is starting to make an unnatural sound, almost as if it is broken inside. The hub still rolls smooth though. Is it possible to overhaul and repair the hub?
It _might_ be possible to repair it, but it sounds like you may need to get a new hub I'm afraid.
Can you get seals for those on their own? My bike doesn't have one...
Why not drill out the front and the rear center between the spokes and put a grease fitting in just pack it full of grease. As long as there's room for the grease fitting to go without hitting the center shaft. And check for play and adjust if necessary? The first time you would have to take it all apart to make sure you didn't hit the center axle but after that lot quicker and easier. On my beach cruiser bike it wouldn't work for the back with the brakes in the hub but it should work on my motorized bicycle possibly if grease fitting doesn't hit the center shaft.
I wish I'd watched this video first! I ended up taking the cones off on both sides, Now I find that axle is not evenly centered and when I go to tighten on the cassette lockring, the tool touches the right hand lock nut and won't allow me to tighten down fully. If I thread the cones towards the left, I end up with difficulty tightening the lockring for the brake disc. Argh. Any tips would be helpful
I used some butter one time because I could not find my grease - It started to make a really horrible grinding noise after about 6 miles which was really annoying as I was out on a club run - it got worse and worse and by the time I got back (68 miles) the wheel was wobbling around in the frame and the grinding was awful. Not only had this method destroyed the ball bearings and cones but also had to rebuild the wheel with new hub as the cups were badly pitted - don't try it!!
Hi,i have a problem with the rear hub. I replaced the rear wheel and bought new axle and cones. Put everithing together nice and tight(not too tight) and rode a bit. After a few miles i had a bit of a play. Tightened the wheel again it was fine but only for a few miles. Took it apart and noticed that the cones are really badly worn but irregularly and the axle was slightly bent. So i got a new axle new cones some riding the same problem,bent axle and badly worn cones. The old wheel could not be trued properly anymore so that's why i got a new but the old wheel did not have this issue ever. It's a freewheel system. Why is this happening ? And what may i do to fix or avoid this next time ?
When putting my rear hub back together I lost track of one of the ball bearings. I don't know if it goes in the inside or outside. How important is one ball bearing? If I put it in the wrong side? If I don't put it in at all?
Came to this video searching for a solution. I cannot identify model of my rear hub. It says Shimano, nothing else. So I will put a part this weekend to see if I can manage it. Bike run approx 25k km and I never looked inside :) so i think it is a time, since my rear wheel is not rolling properly.
what is beter.. to loose or to tight? Whitch way i will damage them less.. i know there is perfect tightnes but its hard to tell.
UBI graduate, here! The perfect adjustment can be achieved by adjusting your hubs to the point when fully assembled and placed in the drop-outs, the wheel should have the tiniest bit of play when the quick release is only halfway engaged; when the quick release is then fully closed, NO play should be present! This loss of play happens due to the quick release compressing the axle just a fractional amount. Again, slight play when slightly tight; no play when fully secured. Happy wrenching!
Tnx man. But i have regular cone locknut axels.. cant believe something is compressing there. Locknuts in theorie already have done all the bearing tightnes and to me seams its impossible for them to get any compresion by quick release.
After doing some research, i found some sellers on ebay who provide brand new Shimano ball bearing spares, so replacing the rear hub might not be necessary after all!
Titouan Barthelemy its not only the balls that wear, the cones that are part of the hub might have grooves in them as well.
I'm aware of that, but different grades of bearing wear at different rates. Just saying
+Titouan Barthelemy And you are correct about different grades wearing differently. What I've done when I was installing a free-replacement low-quality Shimano hub was to just order high-quality bearings from a bearing supplier in the sizes I measured. Also used synthetic marine boat-trailer bearing grease (green in color, and I have a strong suspicion that it is exactly what Shimano green grease was, but for much lower prices). That hub has lasted through hell and high-water for mountain biking where the exact same model hub that it replaced lasted a few months of hard riding before the lower-quality bearings it came with were scored. Anyway, ball bearings in most all hubs used to be pretty common sizes, so as long as one is changing them before they go bad (because if/when the cheap ones go bad, the hub surface they ride on has been scored), my experience is that good-grade bearings can be a reliability upgrade to a cheap or mid-level hub.
hi guys, i've only ridden 5000km on my shimano rs11 wheels and it feels really rough when the axle is turned. two bike shops i consulted verbally said my cones are probably gone and cleaning wont help... I was adviced to get new wheels since rs11s are so cheap anyway... what do you think?
Any chance to get a video about how to install tubeless wheels? cheers!
I haven't serviced my hub in 3 years, only riding in the summer and not daily. is it likely that I will need to replace my hub or maybe the entire wheel?
massivejester it really depends on how much riding you are doing in the summer. It sounds like you may not need to do anything at all - is it still spinning smoothly with no side to side play?
#askgcn - how do you remove the hub? I want to check the Paul's are working right
I'm new to trying to understand how my bike actually works but can anyone explain why the cassette gear thing needs to be removed? Doesn't seem to obstruct bearing maintenance or replacement in anyway that I can work out
Are you able to replace the inner races.?
Is it a must to use grease? cuz when i used teflon oil, the bearings seem to clash with each other every revolution, making this annoying noise.
grease will last alot longer. thanks
I usually use WD-40 as a degreeser. Is that ok or is it possible to destroy something doing that?
+Simon Susnjevic it will perish rubber elements like seals
I had some new engine rods in Ziploc bags with WD-40 and coffee filters. Few years later the rods had some rust on them but not on the bearing Journal luckily. WD-40 has water in it. my door hinges on my car get squeaky I now use oil not WD-40 which causes rust.
Is there anything else to know when servicing the front hub? Thanks
Hi GCN :) You got AMAZING videos here in youtube and i almost watched them all! haha BTW.. I cannot find any guide in choosing the right grease (not lube).. How many kinds of grease out there? Marine? Lithium? Which grease is suitable for which part of the bike? ie. Marine for Speedplay pedal? Lithium for seatpost and fork? etc etc.. Just thought it would be cool to see GCN to present such video "Greade Guide" haha.. Peace out!! GCN you ROCKS!!
Hey GCN! can you help me improvise the spring in this type of hub? My hub siezed last week and I think it's because of the weak spring I tried to replace a year ago but I couldn't find one, so I just tried to tighten it but it's still weak and I had no choice but to put it back in. I watched your new video hoping to find ideas, but it didn't feature this kind of hub. I'm on a tight budget. Need help.
I use zippo rosonol as the degreaser. Is it a good idea?
I was able to remove the rear axle without having to use any spanner or cone removing tool. There is something more wrong than I thought, isn't there?
Global Cycling Network I'm just going to try again :). I really like the look of those wheel reflectors. Can you tell me who the manufacturer is or where I can buy them?
I'm afraid that we're not sure exactly, but it's likely that they were supplied by Shimano with the wheel.
you can have mine if you like they went straight in the bin!! along with the bell!
mechreports1 Thank you very much but I don't suppose you are from Denmark, are you?
Sebastian Lange no mate im not i live in the uk! lol i dont need them on a downhill bike lol so thats why i got rid of them!