One thing that works to straighten an already hardened knife is by using a tungsten carbide straightening hammer. There's a few videos on TH-cam about it.
awsome video. Every time I try something like this; I end up grinding through the blade. Gotta practice more I suppose. About respirators; I wear glasses, so this is a problem all the time. I finally setteled for a snorkeling mask (so I can keep my glasses on and protect them from sparks) with the air intake like a snorkel on top of your head. I replaced the air intake with a 3M dustfilter. Everyone who tried it loved it and duplicated the setup.
A few things to help you along that you might find useful. On an asymmetric grind you have to think of hardened steel as being under tension, as a piece of flat bar its hardened to shape, but if you narrow out one side more than the other it will start to twist. Being that there's less material there to hold it to its original profile and the stresses load up differently. Essentially it will twist so get a carbide tipped peening hammer and beat some sense into it. I strongly recommend not messing with stainless steels using a torch. You can get some grain enlargement and fragility there so its got to be mechanical adjustments. In terms of C-Grinds, they're hard to do but generally I will run a high-flat grind on the blade near as you're going to go on both sides normally but not as thin at the final edge. Just keep a little bit of fat left there and measuring from the edge to about half an inch or 15mm you can convex that down to about its final geometry. That will give you a little more strength on a super thin blade and also deflect wet material a little way from the flat surface further up. Now the C-grind you want to hold the knife in a pinch-grip and then extend your finger to the heel: that is where you start as a lot of cooks will use their index that way in the pinch and combination-grip (halfway between pinch and hammer grip) Where it ends? Typically about a 3/4 or 2/3rd the length from heel to tip. Don't go to the end of the knife on a western style as there's not a lot of steel left there to grind into and you can blow through. Then just run your C-grind up keeping it that half-inch or 15mm from the bottom. Give it a go and see how it works for you. Kitchen knives are proper hard to grind, any chump can knock out a chopping, hunting or bush craft knife geometry that will work ok enough. Kitchen knives, not so much so stick at it and take your time as they are the hardest to do well.
love your work! the experimentation is awesome there’s like infinite variability to hollows and fullers so it’s cool to see you try new things. the splotchiness from the ferric was because of your blue backing sections of the spine. stainless seems to be a bit more sensitive to etching different when it’s soft versus hard
Thank you so much! Yeah I had figured it was. It was really interesting looking, I probably would have leaned into it if I had made the bluing even all the along the spine.
I would highly recommend putting a bolster on a kitchen knife. First, it's beautiful, second, it's a necessity for a kitchen knife. This is my personal opinion. The blade of this knife looks much better than the previous ones in my opinion. You are improving your skills))👍
I wouldnt say necessary but it is at the very least common. A bolster helps not having any gaps so food can get in which is good, however many japanese knives if not most do not have a bolster. Many do infact have collars made out of anti bacterial material such as plastic or cured hardwood. Either way, if you clean a knife correctly it wont be a problem. A bolster is only an aesthetic choice
Bolster is bothersome during sharpening and requires you to grind it down so the base keeps making contact with the cutting board. I don't hate it but I would rather not have it. A tall blade with a curved corner at the base solves the safety issues without any of the bolster downsides
@@thiago.assumpcao it depends on how the bolster is mounted on the blade. a properly installed and sized bolster does not interfere with sharpening. i sharpen kitchen knives myself
Dude that blade looks amazing. I just sold my 2x48 because I upgraded. That’s a very solid grinder. I would suggest getting a carbide straightening hammer so you don’t have to blue back the blade.
@@TheScrawnyLumberjack thank you so much! I love my 2x48. Someday I’ll add to my grinding set up with a 2x72 for sure. I had access to a 4x172 5HP Bater, that thing was legendary. I could grind a chef knife in 10 minutes haha. I have heard from a whole lot of people about these carbide hammers…. I think I definitely need to snag one. Where do you find them?
Excellent work! I really like the fullers, It makes me think of a sword that's been turned into a kitchen knife! Next time you do a cutting test on roots, cut a little flat spot so the darn thing doesn't roll around.
I suggest you get some disposable bathroom cups and popsicle sticks for mixing epoxy. It avoids the mess while allowing you to mix thoroughly. mixing thoroughly is important. having a knife handle come off a couple years down the road is a disappointment waiting to happen.
You know, that is something I’m still very much experimenting with. Ideally it’s as thin as possible, but also there needs to be enough depth in the hollow for good food release. So it’s a tricky balance and I’ve just scratched the surface I think.
@@mattmakesknivesFlat ground blades with .005" to .006" behind the edge thickness seems to be the thin limit. Increasing behind the edge thickness in 0.005" increments leads to significant increases in power input requirements. The increased power input is most noticeable on high density foods like those Sweet Potato. Sweet Potato is my go to for testing knife blade & handle design. Appreciate the knowledge you share, looking forward to more videos.
@@mattmakesknives Oh! I understand. I speak in Spanish and the translator put bees and I didn't know what he was referring to. Better if the victims weren't bees haha. I am following your videos and I like the improvement of the knives
Haha hand sanding is definitely not the best. I think once I’ve got the handle glued on and I’m don’t grinding/ sanding is the best part. I can see the finish line, and that is very exciting.
Something you need to know about stock removal… is that hammer-forging an ingot of steel to shape it into a blade and tang offers absolutely NO significant advantage or superiority in the final product over a final product that was shaped via stock removal…. NONE. Zilch. Zero. Nada. Nyet. The ONLY two things that 1000% make a knife superior in quality over another knife are the *EDGE GEOMETRY, THE QUALITY/PURITY OF THE STEEL, AND THE QUALITY OF THE HEAT CYCLING AND HEAT TREATMENT.* Don’t let any hyper-traditionalist fuddy-duddy fucks tell you that hammer forging is “the ONLY way to make a REAL KNIFE.” (🙄🙄🙄) Especially not when the actual metallurgical SCIENCE says otherwise. It’s a boomer ass take on knife making and has no place any more. The only advantage that forging knives has over stock removal is that you stand to waste a lot less steel by forming every blade out of an ingot of steel that you can eye measure to be the amount you need for the product. And *THAT’S IT.* And not everyone uses that method, even WHEN they opt to hammer forge blades.
💯 I think you nailed it, a good knife has three pillars. Steel choice, proper heat treat, and proper edge geometry for its application. I’ll always love forging, but I am also very okay with having knives water jet and heat treated by a specialist 🤙🏻 Thanks for watching and for the comment!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
One thing that works to straighten an already hardened knife is by using a tungsten carbide straightening hammer.
There's a few videos on TH-cam about it.
I’ve been told this by quite a few people now. I looked into the hammers, I’ll probably order one soon.
Really sharp 💕💕
@@MASI_forging thank you 🙏
That is a very nice looking knife. I bet it would be amazing in Damascus
Thank you very much! I’d love to make one out of Damascus. Someday…
awsome video.
Every time I try something like this; I end up grinding through the blade. Gotta practice more I suppose.
About respirators; I wear glasses, so this is a problem all the time. I finally setteled for a snorkeling mask (so I can keep my glasses on and protect them from sparks) with the air intake like a snorkel on top of your head. I replaced the air intake with a 3M dustfilter. Everyone who tried it loved it and duplicated the setup.
Thank you! Haha love the snorkel set up.
A few things to help you along that you might find useful.
On an asymmetric grind you have to think of hardened steel as being under tension, as a piece of flat bar its hardened to shape, but if you narrow out one side more than the other it will start to twist. Being that there's less material there to hold it to its original profile and the stresses load up differently.
Essentially it will twist so get a carbide tipped peening hammer and beat some sense into it.
I strongly recommend not messing with stainless steels using a torch. You can get some grain enlargement and fragility there so its got to be mechanical adjustments.
In terms of C-Grinds, they're hard to do but generally I will run a high-flat grind on the blade near as you're going to go on both sides normally but not as thin at the final edge. Just keep a little bit of fat left there and measuring from the edge to about half an inch or 15mm you can convex that down to about its final geometry. That will give you a little more strength on a super thin blade and also deflect wet material a little way from the flat surface further up.
Now the C-grind you want to hold the knife in a pinch-grip and then extend your finger to the heel: that is where you start as a lot of cooks will use their index that way in the pinch and combination-grip (halfway between pinch and hammer grip)
Where it ends? Typically about a 3/4 or 2/3rd the length from heel to tip. Don't go to the end of the knife on a western style as there's not a lot of steel left there to grind into and you can blow through.
Then just run your C-grind up keeping it that half-inch or 15mm from the bottom.
Give it a go and see how it works for you. Kitchen knives are proper hard to grind, any chump can knock out a chopping, hunting or bush craft knife geometry that will work ok enough. Kitchen knives, not so much so stick at it and take your time as they are the hardest to do well.
Very well done, great design!
Thank you!
love your work! the experimentation is awesome there’s like infinite variability to hollows and fullers so it’s cool to see you try new things. the splotchiness from the ferric was because of your blue backing sections of the spine. stainless seems to be a bit more sensitive to etching different when it’s soft versus hard
Thank you so much! Yeah I had figured it was. It was really interesting looking, I probably would have leaned into it if I had made the bluing even all the along the spine.
I would highly recommend putting a bolster on a kitchen knife. First, it's beautiful, second, it's a necessity for a kitchen knife. This is my personal opinion. The blade of this knife looks much better than the previous ones in my opinion. You are improving your skills))👍
Thank you!! I would agree, bolster is best.
I wouldnt say necessary but it is at the very least common. A bolster helps not having any gaps so food can get in which is good, however many japanese knives if not most do not have a bolster. Many do infact have collars made out of anti bacterial material such as plastic or cured hardwood. Either way, if you clean a knife correctly it wont be a problem. A bolster is only an aesthetic choice
Bolster is bothersome during sharpening and requires you to grind it down so the base keeps making contact with the cutting board. I don't hate it but I would rather not have it.
A tall blade with a curved corner at the base solves the safety issues without any of the bolster downsides
@@thiago.assumpcao it depends on how the bolster is mounted on the blade. a properly installed and sized bolster does not interfere with sharpening. i sharpen kitchen knives myself
Dude that blade looks amazing. I just sold my 2x48 because I upgraded. That’s a very solid grinder. I would suggest getting a carbide straightening hammer so you don’t have to blue back the blade.
@@TheScrawnyLumberjack thank you so much! I love my 2x48. Someday I’ll add to my grinding set up with a 2x72 for sure. I had access to a 4x172 5HP Bater, that thing was legendary. I could grind a chef knife in 10 minutes haha.
I have heard from a whole lot of people about these carbide hammers…. I think I definitely need to snag one. Where do you find them?
@@mattmakesknives pops knife supply has them but the nicest ones are from Khdaily and are worth it!
@@TheScrawnyLumberjack thanks!
Grinding that fuller looks like the most painful thing for your neck and back knife came out sick though!
Grinding that fuller sucked 😅
Excellent work! I really like the fullers, It makes me think of a sword that's been turned into a kitchen knife!
Next time you do a cutting test on roots, cut a little flat spot so the darn thing doesn't roll around.
Thank you! Thats a great idea, I'll keep that in mind next time!
Ive seen kyle royer use a drill and a rod with a slit to sant fullers much quicker, mabye it could spees up your process
That is an amazing idea, thank you!
I suggest you get some disposable bathroom cups and popsicle sticks for mixing epoxy. It avoids the mess while allowing you to mix thoroughly. mixing thoroughly is important. having a knife handle come off a couple years down the road is a disappointment waiting to happen.
Definitely would be a bummer to have a handle pop off!
I think the cups are a good idea in some case for sure.
Thanks for the comment!
How thick do these blade designs end up being the cutting edge ?
How thin is too thin behind the cutting edge on these blade designs ?
You know, that is something I’m still very much experimenting with. Ideally it’s as thin as possible, but also there needs to be enough depth in the hollow for good food release. So it’s a tricky balance and I’ve just scratched the surface I think.
@@mattmakesknivesFlat ground blades with .005" to .006" behind the edge thickness seems to be the thin limit.
Increasing behind the edge thickness in 0.005" increments leads to significant increases in power input requirements.
The increased power input is most noticeable on high density foods like those Sweet Potato.
Sweet Potato is my go to for testing knife blade & handle design.
Appreciate the knowledge you share, looking forward to more videos.
Siiiiiccckkkkkk
Thanks big dawg 🙏
how do you call this grinding technique?
Hollow grinding I think?
Don't kill the bee. Please, save the bees
I should have been more specific. They were wasps.
I love honey bees. not wasps 😂
@@mattmakesknives Oh! I understand. I speak in Spanish and the translator put bees and I didn't know what he was referring to. Better if the victims weren't bees haha. I am following your videos and I like the improvement of the knives
👏👏👏👏👏🤜🤛
@@ClenioBuilder thank you!🙏
You joked about the best part of making knives, What is the best part?
Haha hand sanding is definitely not the best. I think once I’ve got the handle glued on and I’m don’t grinding/ sanding is the best part. I can see the finish line, and that is very exciting.
Something you need to know about stock removal… is that hammer-forging an ingot of steel to shape it into a blade and tang offers absolutely NO significant advantage or superiority in the final product over a final product that was shaped via stock removal…. NONE. Zilch. Zero. Nada. Nyet.
The ONLY two things that 1000% make a knife superior in quality over another knife are the *EDGE GEOMETRY, THE QUALITY/PURITY OF THE STEEL, AND THE QUALITY OF THE HEAT CYCLING AND HEAT TREATMENT.*
Don’t let any hyper-traditionalist fuddy-duddy fucks tell you that hammer forging is “the ONLY way to make a REAL KNIFE.” (🙄🙄🙄) Especially not when the actual metallurgical SCIENCE says otherwise. It’s a boomer ass take on knife making and has no place any more. The only advantage that forging knives has over stock removal is that you stand to waste a lot less steel by forming every blade out of an ingot of steel that you can eye measure to be the amount you need for the product. And *THAT’S IT.* And not everyone uses that method, even WHEN they opt to hammer forge blades.
💯
I think you nailed it, a good knife has three pillars. Steel choice, proper heat treat, and proper edge geometry for its application.
I’ll always love forging, but I am also very okay with having knives water jet and heat treated by a specialist 🤙🏻
Thanks for watching and for the comment!
PREACH!!!